IMG_5257-1.jpg.
Here it is my first dress in IR.
Next, I will describe how it came to me. maybe my work will be useful to someone

I was inspired by Irish lace from the Internet, I decided to try to make it for myself in the same style.
I have not worked with Irish lace yet, but it will be all the more interesting.
To begin with, I knitted samples of some motifs that I like and are not particularly difficult to perform.
Below is a detailed description of each of them.


WP_20160515_10_10_46_Pro.jpg
Here one skein of 50g is untied.
Threads Violet from YarnArt.


WP_20160601_18_52_28_Pro_1.jpg


WP_20160520_11_35_58_Pro.jpg
These are multi-layered flowers, how many are obtained from one hank.
I knit the rest of the skein or small elements or, like here, a twig for how long the thread is enough.


WP_20160520_11_36_36_Pro.jpg
Flower knitting:
Dial 6 in. n. connect into a ring.
1r. Three lifting loops, 15 double crochet in the ring.
2r. 8 arches out of 3 air loops with fastening with a single crochet.
3r. Above each arch we make a petal. the first and last single crochet, and in the center 5 tbsp. with a crochet.
4r. 8 arches from 5 c. p., with fixing under between the leaves of the previous layer.
5r. Above each arch we make a petal. the first and last single crochet, and in the center 7 tbsp. with a crochet.
6r. 8 arches from 6 c. p., with fixing under between the leaves of the previous layer.
7r. Above each arch we make a petal. the first and last single crochet, and in the center 9 tbsp. with a crochet.
If the description is not very clear, there are many schemes of similar flowers.
Here you can fantasize with the number of layers and the shape of the petals

.jpg
This is a leaf diagram. I'll post more details with pictures.

WP_20160522_13_04_51_Pro.jpg
1. tie a chain 16 in. connect in a ring, tie with 24 tbsp. b \ n, and make 3 lifting-turn loops

WP_20160522_13_07_27_Pro.jpg
2. Rotate the work. Skip one lower st b\n. Knit 11 st b / n, capturing both pigtails.
Arch of 5 air loops. Skip one lower st b\n. Knit 11 st b / n, capturing both pigtails.
3 lifting loops.

WP_20160522_13_10_47_Pro.jpg
3. Rotate the work. Skip one lower st b\n. Knit 10 st b / n, capturing both pigtails.
Then four st b / n under the loops of the arch. Arch of 5 air loops. And three more st b / n under the loops of the arch. Further
we continue knitting st b / n, we stop without knitting 2 st b / n to the edge and make three lifting-turn loops.

WP_20160522_13_13_23_Pro.jpg
4. Rotate the work. Skip one lower st b\n. Knit st b / n in each lower. Three Art. b / n under the loops of the arch.
Arch 5th c. n. and four more st. b\n under the arch. At this stage, be careful.
On the side where we knit three columns under the arch, a concave one will form, where four is the convex edge of the leaf.
After four art. under the arch we continue knitting, not reaching two tbsp. to the end.

WP_20160522_13_16_40_Pro.jpg
5. Rotate the work. Skip one lower st b\n. Knit st b / n in each lower. Four st. b / n under the loops of the arch.
Arch 5th c. n. and three more st. b\n under the arch. We continue knitting, not reaching here and in the next rows for three tbsp. to the end.
We make three loops of lifting-turning.

WP_20160522_13_20_59_Pro.jpg

WP_20160522_13_25_16_Pro.jpg

WP_20160522_13_29_47_Pro.jpg

WP_20160522_13_34_26_Pro.jpg

WP_20160522_13_39_28_Pro.jpg

WP_20160522_13_45_06_Pro.jpg

WP_20160522_13_50_25_Pro.jpg

6.--12. We continue to knit everything in the same way, guided by the principle, after turning at the beginning of one st. skip,
under the arch we knit 4 tbsp with a convex and 3 from the concave side and at the end three tbsp. unbindable.
We continue to knit until the leaf reaches right size. I like the number 12. One large + 11 small holes.

WP_20160522_13_57_58_Pro.jpg
13. We untie in the same way as the previous rows, but already under the arch we make only 7 tbsp. b\n.

WP_20160522_14_02_20_Pro.jpg
14. we untie in the same way, but on the rounding we do 2 tbsp. b \ n surplus, so that the round edge does not pull.

WP_20160522_14_05_00_Pro.jpg
15. Well, we knit the final row to the middle of the rounding, the last st. replace it with a blind loop and fix it.
A blind loop will allow you to finish knitting nullifying.

WP_20160522_14_06_23_Pro.jpg


WP_20160522_14_06_37_Pro.jpg

In the process of knitting, the leaf is very spinning, so it looks unsteamed.

WP_20160523_17_41_40_Pro.jpg
50 gr leaves and small parts from the rest

Next is a small MK motive "Curl"


WP_20160525_14_19_47_Pro.jpg
1. Tie 20 cm of cord "pigtail". Make 3 lifting loops. Link Art. s\n

WP_20160525_15_54_28_Pro.jpg
2. Wrap around the column. I do 5 pairs of twists. In total, knit 12 entwined columns in each loop of the pigtail.
Thus, the pigtail lies in a circle.

WP_20160525_16_03_25_Pro.jpg
3. Tie 9 more twisted columns with fastening through one loop into a pigtail,
so that there is no further rounding or it is minimal.

WP_20160525_16_06_19_Pro.jpg
4. Next 3 tbsp. s \ n in two steps, 3 tbsp. s \ n in one go, 3 tbsp. b\n. and further to the end of the motive with deaf loops.

WP_20160525_16_13_08_Pro.jpg
5. Rotate the work. Tie with arches from 3 c. p., fixing Art. b \ n between entwined columns,
and in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bdeaf loops in every third.
Fasten with a blind loop opposite the fourth entwined column. to form a loop.

WP_20160525_16_26_09_Pro.jpg
6. rotate the work. Make a strapping of arches: 2 tbsp. b\n, 3 c. p., 2 tbsp. b\n.
Finish with a blind loop.
This is such a cute and not at all complicated curl

WP_20160530_16_54_44_Pro.jpg
50gr. curls.

Next I will knit a large openwork shell


WP_20160601_22_45_39_Pro.jpg
1. Tie a pigtail about 32cm - 100 loops

WP_20160601_22_56_30_Pro.jpg
2. 3 lifting loops and st. c \ n in the first loop of the pigtail. 2 in. P..
Then knit two tbsp. c \ n in every second loop of the pigtail,
alternating with two n. knit 25 pairs.

WP_20160601_23_04_27_Pro.jpg
3. Continue to knit pairs of columns, but already alternating with one c. n. to the end of the pigtail

WP_20160601_23_21_25_Pro.jpg
4. Rotate the work. Tie arches st. b\n: 3pcs under 1c. n, 4 pcs under 2c. P.
Fasten in a ring opposite 21-22 pairs of columns, so that it fits nicely in a circle.
Knit 3 blind loops in pigtail loops

WP_20160601_23_27_10_Pro.jpg
5. Art. b \ n in the third loop of the strapping of the arches. again 3 deaf loops in a pigtail.
St s \ n in the third loop of tying the arches.
thus knit six tbsp. s\n.

WP_20160601_23_39_03_Pro.jpg
6. Next, knit 4 deaf loops in a pigtail, and go to the columns with two crochets,
to loosen the shell a little. Make a tie at the end of the braid
three st. b\n the last column of three air loops. Secure the end of the work with a blind loop.

WP_20160601_16_33_46_Pro.jpg
I imposed almost half of the volume.
I start to indulge, I scattered motives on the dress,
I appreciate what happens.

Bought 12 skeins in total. This is scattered 4 skeins.
So the second half will go somewhere the same.
The remaining threads for the assembly and possibly a small sleeve,
will be seen along the way.
I hope to meet 12 skeins

Another motive "spiral"

WP_20160605_15_23_19_Pro.jpg
1. Wind 3 turns of thread around your hand. you can use a template: a book, a ruler, etc.
The final size of the element will depend on the length of the wound thread.

WP_20160605_15_25_38_Pro.jpg

2. Knit 2 tbsp. b\n under three threads.
Thread an auxiliary thread to make it easier to keep the work at the beginning.

WP_20160605_15_27_09_Pro.jpg
3. Knit 5-7 tbsp. b \ n already under all six threads

WP_20160605_15_27_58_Pro.jpg
4. Pull out the auxiliary thread and move the knitted posts to the edge,
so that the hole closes at the beginning and so that the turns lie more tightly.

WP_20160605_15_43_34_Pro.jpg
5. Continue knitting with columns, every 10-12 columns I shift them slightly compacting,
as much as pleasing to the eye.
When the row ends, I insert an auxiliary thread so that the work lies more comfortably in my hand

WP_20160605_15_50_37_Pro.jpg
6. Knit to the end, pull out the auxiliary thread
and knit another 5-6 columns in the extreme loop.
Fasten and cut, leaving 50 cm of free thread, thread it into a ketel needle.
Or any with a large comfortable ear.

WP_20160605_15_53_17_Pro.jpg
7. Next we will sew. We lay out the laces in a circle and sew the pigtails behind the loops.

WP_20160605_15_59_59_Pro.jpg
8. This is the front side.

WP_20160605_16_07_20_Pro.jpg
9. We continue to sew as much as we like. Either to the end or leaving a ponytail.
I'll leave a little tail for now.
When assembling the dress, you will see what to do with it next.

WP_20160608_16_35_23_Pro.jpg

Berry or button, as you please.
1. Wind 10 turns on a pencil.
2. 3. 4. Knit three rows of single crochets over each other, sticking the hook always in the center.
You can knit more until the hole in the center closes.
The volume of the berry depends on this.
I plan to use this element immediately.
Therefore, I immediately make two lifting loops.

WP_20160608_16_41_11_Pro.jpg

I turn the button inside out on the face, from this side it looks more convex.
I attach it to the shell inside with a deaf loop, make two more deaf loops, for a total of three deaf loops in a pigtail.
Then, in a button, a double crochet and so we alternate almost to the end.
At the end, I make the columns longer, I determine by eye, one column with two crochets,
and two more columns with three crochets. Trying not to pull and lay down nicely.

WP_20160609_13_52_13_Pro.jpg

Untie the fifth hank

In the comments there was a question about the number of the hook. I find it difficult to answer.
I have an old Soviet set for 4 rubles 50 kopecks. I use the smallest one.

WP_20160623_12_15_11_Pro.jpg

WP_20160626_11_58_28_Pro.jpg

Another skein of curls.

WP_20160714_12_56_56_Pro.jpg

Another skein of leaves.

It turns out a lot of dense elements.
I decided to introduce another easier one.

WP_20160713_10_43_26_Pro.jpg

WP_20160713_10_46_22_Pro.jpg

WP_20160713_10_50_44_Pro.jpg

WP_20160713_10_54_42_Pro.jpg

WP_20160713_11_10_09_Pro.jpg

And Here is the release of one hank of violet with this flower.

WP_20160713_11_10_11_Pro.jpg

For further work, assembly of the product, it turned out that additional devices would be needed.

I made them myself in a couple of days.

WP_20160715_17_34_09_Pro.jpg

These are oval pillows for placing under the recesses of the buttocks and hips.

WP_20160715_20_09_41_Pro.jpg

This is a 33/40 cm rectangular tablet for collecting straight sections.
For convenience and rigidity, plywood is inserted inside.

WP_20160716_14_14_33_Pro.jpg

Focusing on the size of my cups, I made two hemispherical pillows,
for convenience of work in the field of chest tucks.

WP_20160716_16_21_22_Pro.jpg

Such a set of pillows for work turned out.
On the advice of experienced craftswomen, I decided to use foam rubber.

WP_20160721_21_51_36_Pro.jpg

Now the manufacture of the basis for the work, on which the elements of lace will be swept.

WP_20160722_01_37_34_Pro.jpg

All elements are laid out on the base and swept inside out to themselves.

WP_20160722_01_37_47_Pro.jpg

Since I have, well, not a model figure at all. And I know from experience that the most interesting
it's like a product will sit on a real person.
In the magazines, they are all super beauties.
So for those who are curious, here are my parameters, height 153, hips 104, chest 88, waist 74.

For edging the neckline and the zipper line, I used a cord based on a pigtail,
tied on both sides with a crustacean step.

In the process of basting, I still had to tie the elements. not enough.
And I decided that they should be dense.
as a result, the elements took 10 skeins of Violet threads from YarnArt 282m in a 50 gram skein.
The dress is already tangible, weighs half a kilo.

I'm moving on to assembly.

I decided to collect with the help of a needle with the same thread, in other words, to sew a mesh.

Working with a tablet looks something like this, we prick a straight section.
We sew. We break off. We are moving. We prick the next section.

WP_20160814_17_01_16_Pro.jpg

On the undercuts, for convenience and greater anatomical accuracy of the product, we use pads.

So he got rid of the front of the dress.

WP_20160904_17_46_22_Pro.jpg

And back

WP_20160904_17_46_51_Pro.jpg

The view from the inside wrinkles a little, because when we prick on the tablet, we stretch the elements and the canvas a little.
don't let that bother you, the better it will fit.

WP_20160904_17_47_40_Pro.jpg

We assemble the sleeve in expanded form on the tablet

WP_20160917_18_33_09_Pro.jpg

We sew the mesh of the sleeve.

WP_20160920_09_48_28_Pro.jpg

Stitch the side seams of the sleeves.

WP_20160920_10_51_17_Pro.jpg

We sew the sleeves into the armhole.

WP_20160920_15_46_32_Pro.jpg

WP_20160920_15_46_56_Pro.jpg

WP_20160920_15_52_29_Pro.jpg

Using a small pad, we begin to sew the mesh along the side seam of the sleeve and armhole.
here you will have to tinker, piercing the product in small sections due to the complex shape of the armhole.
But it's worth it!!! do not neglect the accuracy of the cut, the product will thank you later,
And sit down on the figures like a glove

WP_20160920_16_30_17_Pro.jpg

Further, after the entire mesh is sewn,
I washed the dress by hand and without ceremony
on the spin cycle 800. the dress is cotton, dries for a long time.
it is better to dry in a warm place.
then ironed without removing from the base.
And then she cut off the basting.
I will not describe the manufacture of the lining.
who knows how to sew will sew.
Who does not know how, order a dressmaker.

Tip, the lining also needs to be sewn according to the figure.
I used the same pattern as for the base.
do not forget to allow for freedom of fitting, so that
when walking, the dress did not crawl up.

Lace and lining were connected by hand along the line of the neckline and zipper.

This is what the dress looks like from the inside.

WP_20161005_11_21_50_Pro.jpg

WP_20161005_11_22_07_Pro.jpg

WP_20161005_11_23_00_Pro.jpg

WP_20161005_11_23_10_Pro.jpg

I decided to sew a slit on the back of the skirt with a flower, but I left a slit on the lining,
the lining is not jersey.
The dress is not long plus elastic, there is no discomfort when walking.

WP_20161005_11_36_55_Pro.jpg

A little close up.

IMG_5257-f.jpg

And this is all that remains of 12 skeins of thread. almost back to back.

WP_20161005_12_04_10_Pro.jpg

Well, here is the finish line. Thank you for your patience to read to the end.

Good luck to everyone in all endeavors.

And pleasure from the work done.

IMG_5314-1.jpg

Knitting in the technique of Irish lace. Work on bugs.

ttp://www.mirvyazaniya.ru/

Knitting in the technique of Irish lace. Work on bugs.

Knitting in the technique of Irish (typesetting) lace turned out to be so interesting and exciting that I wanted to continue. Immediately I want to please those who torment their first Irish lanky - the second job will go much faster and easier. For example, knitting that very ill-fated mesh that is given with such difficulty at the very beginning becomes almost the most favorite pastime in all knitting, as they say from personal experience.

It is quite natural that in the second work I wanted to “work on the mistakes”, take into account and work out in practice the conclusions that were obtained as a result of working on my first creation.

And the very first thing I want to start with is a composition in which the selection plays an important role color combinations and yarn textures. If you still doubt that you can harmoniously match the colors, try "solid Ireland" - always a win-win. At the same time, you can choose yarn of the same color that is different in texture and texture, which will emphasize the relief and contrast of motifs. The result cannot but please - plain lace always looks spectacular. If, nevertheless, we want to see some kind of color scheme, then we must take the selection of colors quite seriously (this is me already from my sad experience). First, resist the temptation to “attach” any leftover yarn. Such savings do not justify themselves. Even if you choose the right color (which is rare in itself), you may simply not have enough threads. All this will put you in a rigid framework and will not allow your creative idea to be realized in full force. Indeed, in addition to the fact that you will need to harmoniously fit your leftover threads into color scheme, so it will still be necessary to evenly distribute all this throughout the product, which is quite problematic if there is no way to buy the missing threads. Although this is just a recommendation, and if you are not afraid of these difficulties, try it. Secondly, trust your intuition, if the ball of thread you bought resonates with other threads, or even only causes discomfort that is still inexplicable to you, feel free to throw it out of the “project”.

After the idea of ​​​​the future masterpiece is determined and the yarn is selected, we knit motives.
Since the idea itself is subtle and intuitive, and most importantly, it is subject to various adjustments in the creative process, I would not impose all the motives at once and fill the entire pattern with them (unless you are repeating an already finished model). Indeed, it is often in the process of knitting that some ideas, finds, additions arise. Perhaps you decide to enrich the overall picture with a new motive or replace an existing motive with another one. In a word, leave room for maneuver. In addition, if you, like me, do not fix the motifs on the base, then in the end they will be located on the pattern in a completely different way than you originally laid them out. Therefore, in my case, there is always the opportunity to simply impose unnecessary motives.

My original intention was this. I wanted to focus specifically on the grid, and lower the motifs (roses) down the product, forming the edge (bottom of the product) with them. It was also assumed that there would not be many motives themselves.

So, we fill in part of the pattern with motives, fix them with the help of "hooks". (Since in my last product, when assembling with a mesh, I often missed the hooks in the canvas and, where necessary, did not fasten the motifs with a mesh, I decided to make the hooks in a contrasting color so that they stand out sharply against the general background and can be clearly seen). Thus, from the motifs and the cord, we kind of form the frame of the canvas, and then fill it with a grid.

At the same time, the contours of the “islands”, sections of the mesh themselves are formed already in the process of knitting this very mesh. Moreover, we fill the islands not evenly in order, one after the other, but in discordance. It seems to me that this is important: after all, I knit the mesh on a straight plane (table) and this very section of the mesh also turns out to be flat, but the canvas will need to be planted on the figure. Therefore, the “gaps” specially left in different places are then corrected on the figure, and it is due to them that the fitting takes place. I constantly keep two things in my head: the general idea and the tucks (or rather, the places where they should be).

We do not forget to slightly iron and steam the finished sections of the canvas (as a rule, after that the canvas increases slightly) and constantly check it with the pattern. The most important thing is not only not to crawl out of the pattern, but not to tie a little to its edges in the sides and on the shoulder seams. We need this in order not to form a visible seam, the junction of the canvases, the transition should be imperceptible, and this type-setting lace technique, like no other, allows us to do this very easily.

After all the details are connected, I start the assembly on the figure. I fixed all the details with the help of hooks and chains of air loops, along which I then filled all the voids. If these very voids turned out to be large, I inserted motives, the main thing is that they do not run counter to the general plan.

In this work, I wanted to make the grid the main element in the product. I tried two types of mesh: with rings and regular, irregular. (I knitted the last one for the first time and Hooray! I think I got it).

I also noted that knitting "rings" is convenient precisely on weight, when the motives are rigidly fixed on the basis, it is very difficult to knit them, I would even say almost impossible.

Here's a small example of filling areas with a grid.

Of course, it is better to hide the left ponytails immediately, as they interfere with work. But if you don’t get the opportunity to knit so often, and especially knit in peace and quiet in “normal (for knitting using the Irish lace technique) conditions”, then you can do ponytails later, for example, when the table is busy or when you are sitting on a bench in the yard, walking with a child. It's a matter of saving time.

When knitting the mesh, we naturally try to fasten the motifs fixed by the “hooks”, and even think over the course of the knitting direction in order to do this better. But if it’s not possible to fasten the “hook” beautifully, we skip it. Our grid must be perfect! There is nothing wrong with this, even if you fail to fasten the hook another time (on the other hand), this can always be done separately (just an additional ponytail, which is also easily hidden in the motive).

Of course, when you just start knitting something using the technique of Irish lace, you will definitely encounter situations when something does not work out, something needs to be corrected, corrected, or even completely redone. As they say, the gods do not burn the pots! After all, we all learn, and this is a lifelong process. Therefore, I would like to dwell on my alterations as well.

I do not fix motives on the basis, so I have the opportunity to constantly turn the canvas over and see what I get from the face. However, when tying the leaf with a net, I still looked through the "teeth" that I got. I figured it was easier to fix than to re-bandage everything. Since I ran out of threads from which the leaves were tied (or I could tie the motif around the edge), I used this disguise: I hid the defect and gave expressiveness to the leaf. Maybe someone will come in handy.

If it happened to you (like me) that the canvas was imposed a little more than necessary, do not worry, everything can be fixed! And to do this is not at all as difficult and scary as it might seem at first glance. When you need to remove a small section of the grid, I don’t think it makes sense to look for the “beginning-end” of the thread in order to dissolve it. Firstly, this business may turn out to be unpromising (especially if all the “tails” are tightly hidden), and secondly, it is very easy to dissolve the wrong thing at all. It is much easier to take scissors and carefully cut out the excess without touching neighboring motifs (right along the connecting posts of the grid). Then “clear” the motifs from the remnants of the grid and fix the open end, avoiding further unraveling (it is important, of course, to find it before that). And then carefully check if we missed something, for example, a motive accidentally damaged, some other unclosed end, in a word, everything that can bloom. Well, everything is ready for rework. (I’ll tell you a secret that, stepping on the same rake, in this way I reduced the volume of the sleeve, well, next time I’ll have to pay even more attention to the pattern).

We knit "Yarrow"

The very popular yarrow or centipede motif is often found in Irish stacked lace. A motive is performed using bourdon.

I remind you that bourdon is a thread in 3-4 additions. It is advisable to use the same thread as the working one or the right one exactly in color. Otherwise, another basis will be visible in the kinks.

We start with 18 s.b.n., recruited on bourdon. We enclose them in a ring, hooking on the initial p. of the connecting p.

Then we continue to recruit another 60 st.b.n.

We turn the knitting over, after pulling the bourdon threads tighter. I remind you, we turn over, like a read sheet of a book.
And we knit 20 st.b.n., laying the bourdon over the loops of the previous row.

Having knitted the last stitch, be sure to tighten the bourdon, setting the shape and density of the motive.

Temporarily set aside the threads of bourdon. And then we knit in this order: 3 air sts, skipping 2 sts of the previous row, we knit 1 st.s.n., again 2 air sts. So knit until the “head” of the sheet begins to round. By rounding, we also knit, only skip 1 p. of the previous p.

We turn the knitting and knit 3 st.b.n. into each formed arch.
All this time we do not touch the bourdon!

Having reached the last point, we turn the work over and on one bourdon we impose 15 st.b.n.

Again we turn the work and, having laid the burdon, we knit like this: 2 st.b.n., 2 half-columns, 7 st.s.n., 2 half-st.

We turn the work, skip 2 sts of the previous row, knit 1 st.b.n., clinging to the base row and again, laying the budon on top of the already connected petal, we knit 8 st.b.n.

Again we turn the work and knit in the above order, forming another petal.

Thus we tie the entire row to the end.
And we get a very original and traditional Irish lace motif.