Please note: our corset is slightly different from the classic version. It is easier to process - even a beginner can sew it.

You will need:

• Top fabric (not too thin, otherwise the bones will not hold. The photo shows thick silk)
• Lining fabric (preferably thick cotton, not knitted)
• Adhesive fabric
• Metal spiral bones (or plastic) - in this model 20 pieces
• Eyelets

And

• Eyelet press
• Sewing machine
• Knife with a round blade
• Mat for cutting knives

Step 1

First of all, you need to choose a model. You can use from the Burda autumn-winter 2015/2016 catalog or patterns from magazines or.

Once the pattern is chosen, be sure to sew a cheap fabric mock-up to adjust the fit or change the model lines. Cut the layout along the corrected lines - these will be your patterns.

Step 2

Cut out the fabric of the upper and lining. Don't forget allowances. If the fabric of the top is not dense enough, duplicate everything with an adhesive cloth.

Step 3

Sew together all the details of the main fabric.

Where the relief seams are particularly curved, .

Iron the allowances.

Do the same for the lining pieces.

Step 4

Connect the parts from the main fabric to the parts of the lining.

Step 5

Run finishing stitches to the left and right of the raised seams. Before doing this, be sure to align the raised seams of the main fabric with the raised seams of the lining pieces.

Then, from the finishing lines to the right and left, measure a distance equal to the width of the bones, and lay the lines.

Step 6

Now you need to cut the edges of the upper and lower lines of the corset in order to get rid of excess threads, align and finally adjust the model lines.

Step 7

Now you need to cut out the facings. To do this, lay the corset on the lining fabric, carefully straightening the top of the product.

Using a knife with a round blade, following the contours of the top line of the corset, cut out the facing.

Of course, you can cut out the facing with ordinary scissors. To do this, first circle the contours of the upper line of the product with a tailor's chalk. In the same way, cut out the facing for the bottom of the corset.

Step 8

Sew on the straps. Their width can be any - at your discretion. If you want to make a strapless corset, just skip this step.

Step 9

Pin the straps right side to the front side of the corset with pins, as shown in the photo (do not forget to fasten the straps on the back too!).

Having equalized the cuts, baste or pin the piping with the right side to the front side of the corset. If the lining fabric frays a lot, pre-stitch the bottom edge of the facing with an overlock or a zigza stitch on a sewing machine. Lay out a line.

.

Turn the facing towards the seam allowance and lay a line from the side of the seam, adjusting it to allowances. Trim the allowances to 2-3 mm, make notches.

Stitch the facing to the wrong side.

The top of the product is finished.

Step 10

Insert bones.

No matter how complicated a corset may seem at first glance, you can always sew it with your own hands. And, given that a corset is a truly feminine piece of clothing, every girl should have it, especially paying attention to current fashion trends. Therefore, we read the step-by-step instructions described below and learn how to sew a corset with our own hands.

Work process

Of course, making such a cute corset is not just about creating another top or T-shirt that can be done literally in a jiffy. Here you will encounter more serious sewing procedures. However, at the end you will get a more sophisticated piece that will be combined with many other items of clothing in your wardrobe.

Step 1-2. Preparation of the necessary materials.

In order to sew such a corset, which we offer in our instructions, you will need the following tools: rivets for the central fastener of the corset, base for the fastener, lacing tape, strong support tape, black fabric tape, as well as a hammer, pliers, tongs, scissors , a sewing hole punch and a tool for connecting rivet elements.

Now we offer you a diagram of all the fabric elements from which the corset will be sewn. This diagram shows all the necessary elements that you will have to draw and cut out of the fabric with your own hands. Alternatively, you can enlarge the proposed scheme, print it and use sketches of real sizes. If you have such an opportunity, this, of course, will greatly simplify your task.

Step 3. Preparing the fabric.

To make a corset at home, you will also need fabric, and two different colors. The first fabric should match the color, texture and pattern that you see in your future corset. This will be, so to speak, the front side of the corset. The second fabric should be solid and the color that is predominant in the first fabric. For example, for the front side of our corset, we prepared a black and silver striped fabric, and for the lining - a plain black fabric.

Step 4. Connecting the elements of the corset sketch.

In the above sketch, each element has its own name. We take these elements and connect them together in order, so that you get two parts of the corset, as shown in the figure below. Thus, you will get two symmetrical parts of the corset from the fastener in front to the central seam on the back.

Step 5-8. The process of sewing two parts of the corset.

The drawings below show each step of connecting the necessary elements. Each such element must first be sewn with the same element cut from the lining fabric, and then these already double elements are sewn together. Small triangular shaped elements are designed for the front of the corset, they make the front upper part of the corset in the form of a bust.

Step 9-10. Sew on the base tape.

We sew a base tape around the entire waist of the future corset. This element will give the girl who will wear this corset, additional harmony and elegance.

Step 11. We hide the seams on the corset.

Using thin strips of fabric cut from the black lining, hide the inside seams.

Now the hand-sewn corset is almost ready. There are some nuances left. First of all, from the fabric that was intended for the front side of the corset, we make wrapping seams on its lower and upper parts along its entire circumference. Also, using previously prepared materials and tools, we add a fastener element to it and make lacing.

Now we can say with confidence - the corset is ready.

And now a few tips on what items of clothing such a cool little thing is ideal for.

If you prefer to wear long skirts, feel free to pair this corset with your favorite skirt option. Indeed, long skirts look great with corsets that somewhat cover their upper part. If the corset seems a little short for this role, then the skirt should be chosen with a thick elastic band at the waist. For girls who prefer short skirts, tulip skirts or multi-layered skirts above the knees will be the perfect combination for it. As for the top, plain lace or chiffon blouses with embroidery are perfect here. You can also choose blouses made of thin satin with wide sleeves.

In any case, you will look great in such a corset, because it is not necessary to remind you once again that it is such a piece of clothing as a corset that gives the girl female harmony and grace. Be sure of it!

Do-it-yourself bride with an hourglass figure? Patterns of the bodice, front and back with a corset on the side bones.

The corset is the main part of the dress. It depends on him the general appearance of the outfit and how it will sit on the figure. But not only will it complement your image, you also need to decide what other functions you assign to it. What kind of corset for wedding attire needs to be sewn will depend on this.

Types of corsets

Taking into account what kind of figure you have, what material and decorative elements you will use, there are the following options for corsets:

• Decorative - a great option for slim brides. It is perfect for any style of wedding dress. The process of its creation is quite simple and you can always decorate it in any way you like;
• Slimming - perfect for girls who have a good figure, but still would like to make some adjustments: tighten the thallus, making it thinner, lift the chest, making it more attractive. In addition, such a corset perfectly supports the back.

What will you need?

Each bride imagines her ideal dress differently. And it's great when you can bring your idea to life with your own hands. First, pay attention to the fabric that you will use for the lining and directly on the top of the dress. If you decide to sew a corsage yourself for the first time, then choose cheap fabrics that you can easily and comfortably work out on. Conduct for yourself, the so-called master class. Thanks to him, you will be able to understand well the sequence of work, what and how to do in order to avoid mistakes and defects, to work out the details. After training, you can proceed directly to sewing a corset. So, in order to sew a suitable corset for your wedding dress, you will need:

• A thick cotton version is perfect for the lining. Such material not only keeps its shape perfectly, but also does not create uncomfortable sensations in contact with the body;
• Top fabric - here you can use any option you like, but cotton stretch satin, satin, guipure or lace will be the most practical;
• Regilin;
• Rep tape;
• Accessories only the one you plan to use: locks, eyelets, ties, hooks, whalebone (if you decide to sew a slimming corset), spiral bones for both straight and curved seams;
• All the necessary equipment for taking measurements, creating a pattern, cutting material and directly sewing.

Corset sewing technology

So, let's start sewing a corset with our own hands. We decide on the style and type of corsage, its length and general appearance. If you have already decided everything for yourself, how to sew everything, then you need to proceed to a very important and responsible stage - creating a pattern. If you are doing this for the first time, then you can look through modern magazines, as well as surf the Internet. There are many guides out there on how to make a corset pattern and you may find the one that is right for you. But remember that the pattern must be created in accordance with your figure and your parameters. Therefore, the next part of the work is taking measurements:

• chest girth;
• waist circumference;
• hip girth;
• distance from the waist to the point under the chest, to the bottom along the side seam, to the bottom of the abdomen.

We draw a pattern according to the measurements taken, and then proceed to cutting. Cut out the details of the pattern as accurately as possible. This will help to more correctly cut out the details already from the fabric itself. When you begin to work directly with the fabric, lay out the pattern so that the central cut of the back is parallel to the longitudinal thread. Thanks to this, when you connect all the existing corset elements, their points of contact along the waist line will be parallel to the thread, which means that the corset will keep its shape perfectly and will not stretch. This moment is very important if you decide to create a slimming corset.

Corset tailoring

When you already know how to sew a corset for a dress and have done all the preparatory work, you can proceed. Initially, we take on the lining. It is necessary to make a preliminary version. To do this, sweep the central parts of the product with the side front ones. By the same principle, connect the parts of the back, and then - all together. Now try on and correct those parts that you think are defective. After that, the seams can be stitched, and the lining itself can be ironed well.

Now let's move on to the outside of the corset. It is necessary to do the same and do not forget about the changes made to the lining, if any. We connect the upper part with the lining. Next, we move on to smaller, but very important details. After that, it is necessary to stitch the drawstrings on the side seams. This is where the bones will be inserted to stiffen the corset and keep it in shape.

Depending on the purpose of your product, it can be fastened at the back with a zipper, buttons, hooks, or have lacing. The lacing is perfect for a slimming corset and can be located both in front and behind. Thanks to the lacing, you can adjust your figure to the size you need and the wedding dress will fit you perfectly.

Decor

The main tailoring work is completed. The corset is ready and the wedding dress will be flawless. In order to make it special, decorate the corset with the decor you like. It can be rhinestones, imitation pearls, fabric elements, ribbons, beads, lace - everything that seems appropriate and attractive. This dress will be a worthy decoration for a charming bride.

fashion designer

Hello dear readers! Today our lesson is about the corset. Interest in the corset is very great, because it is he who helps us, women, to model the figure in the most advantageous way. By learning how to create this wardrobe detail, you can look stunning in any situation! So, let's begin.

To begin with, I would like to make a reservation - today we will not talk about a corset, in its classical sense, but about a lightweight, so to speak, corset - about corsage. The thing is that the corset, in the modern world, does not have the same wide popularity as before. A corset is a product that models a figure, it consists of many parts, is made on special equipment, using special corset fittings (usually these are metal bones, busks, plates for eyelets, has lacing, with which the pulling process takes place), which makes the manufacturing process in the conditions of non-professional workshops is almost impossible. Pulling at the waist, in a corset. it can be very large - 10-20 cm, which, of course, cannot be achieved in corsages.

It is difficult to use a classic corset in everyday life, so let's turn our attention to a corsage that meets all aesthetic requirements and, moreover, is more comfortable. The differences between a corset and a bodice are now clear. But!, in ordinary life, everyone calls a corset a corset, it just so happened in an unprofessional environment, so we decided to call our lesson corset pattern, to make it easier for the reader to find this material. If you want to delve into the topic of corsets, perhaps we will create another lesson where we will talk about the history of the corset and give construction options,this is a really interesting topic! So, let's begin.

The construction of the corset (corsage) pattern will be based on the adjacent product. A corset (corsage) implies a strong fit, and in some cases a tightening, so we will set the increments to the girths to the minimum (negative increments are also possible). Negative increments are used mainly to the waist circumference and the third chest circumference (because it is in these places that the figure can be pulled a little without creating much discomfort). Measurements from the figure should be taken with a tight-fitting measuring tape, not tightening, but not too loose. It is required to take a measurement of chest girth on linen, the height of the chest and the volume in the finished product depend on this.

WC gain = 0 to -2 cm

Increase in exhaust gas = 2 to 0 cm

WC gain = -3 to -6 cm

Exhaust gas gain = -1 to -3 cm

Remember that the increments are set to half measurements, because the construction takes place on half the figure and cutting is also meant on a doubly folded fabric.

corset pattern

Drawing grid

Let's determine the length of the base pattern, by the way, you can use it to create a tight-fitting dress or, for example, a bottom cover for a dress (combination). We put this value vertically, from top to bottom - AN, placing the segment at the left edge of the graph paper (For example: AN \u003d 110).

Draw perpendicular lines through A and H to the right.

From point A to the right, we smooth out the size of the half-girth of the chest with an increase in freedom (For example: AB \u003d POG + Pr \u003d 48 + 2 \u003d 50 cm.). Set point B.

Draw a line from B down to the intersection with the bottom line and set the point H1.

From point A, lay down the segment AT, the length of which is equal to the length of the back to the waist plus an increase (For example: AT \u003d Dts + Pr \u003d 38 + 0.5 \u003d 38.5 cm) and set the point T.

From T to the right we draw a line to the segment BH1, at the intersection we put point T1. The segment TT1 is the level of the waist.

Then, from T down, set aside the height of the hip line. The value of this segment is equal to half the length of the back (For example: TB \u003d ½ * DTS \u003d ½ * 38 \u003d 19 cm). Set point B.

From B to the right we draw the line of the hips, the intersection with the segment BH1 is denoted by B1.

Construction of the neck of the back

Initially, from point A to the right, along the segment AB, we set aside the width of the back plus the increase (For example, AA1 \u003d ShS + Pr \u003d 18 + 0.5 \u003d 18.5 cm). Set point A1.

From point A1 to the right, we set aside the segment A1A2 equal to 1/4 of the half-girth of the chest (For example: A1A2 \u003d 1/4 * POG \u003d 1/4 * 48 \u003d 12.0). Set point A2.

Now from A1 and A2 down we draw lines of arbitrary length. Segments A1 and A2 - are the boundaries of the width of the armhole.

Then, from point A to the right, we set aside the segment AA3 equal to 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck plus an increase (For example, AA3 \u003d 1/3 * POSH + Pr \u003d 1/3 * 18 + 0.5 \u003d 6.5 cm). Set point A3. AA3 indicates the width of the neck on the back.

From point A3 upwards, we draw a segment A3A4 equal to 1/10 of the half-girth of the neck, plus an increase. (For example, A3A4 \u003d 1/10 * POSH + Pr \u003d 1/10 * 18 + 0.8 \u003d 2.6 cm). We put point A4. A3A4 - the height of the neck of the back.

In order to beautifully draw a neck line, we should divide the angle AA3A4 at point A3 in half and draw a line. On this line, we set aside the value of the auxiliary segment A3A5 (For example, A3A5 \u003d 1/10 * 1POSH - 0.3 \u003d 1/10 * 18-0.3 \u003d 1.5 cm) and set point A5. The points A4, A5 and A obtained as a result of the construction are connected by a smooth curve - this is the neck line of the back!

Construction of the shoulder section of the back

Initially, from A1 we lay down the segment A1P and set the point P. (The value of the segment A1P depends on the shape of the shoulders - for normal A1P \u003d 2.5 cm, for sloping A1P \u003d 3.5 cm, for high A1P \u003d 1.5 cm).

We connect points A4 and P with a straight line. Then, from A4, we set aside the segment A4P1 equal to the length of the shoulder plus an increase equal to the size of the tuck solution (For example, A4P1 \u003d Dp + 2 \u003d 13.5 + 2 \u003d 15.5 cm) and set the point P1.

On the resulting line A4P1 from A4, set aside 4 cm to the right and set point O. It is from point O that we will build a shoulder tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades.

From O we lay off 8 cm vertically down - we get point O1. Then, also from point O, we put aside 2 cm to the right - we set point O2. Connect O1 and O2 with a straight line.

The segments ОО1 and О1О2 are the sides of the tuck, but we need to equalize them. To do this, from the point O1 through the point O2, draw a segment O1O3 \u003d OO1 and set the point O3. Then we connect the points O3 and P1.A4O + O3P1 - the length of the shoulder.

Now let's define the level of the chest line. To do this, from the point P down we put off the segment PG \u003d 1/4 * Pog + Z. (We choose the Z coefficient depending on the posture: 7 cm for a normal figure, 7.5 cm for a stooped figure, 6.5 cm for a kinky figure). (For example, PG \u003d 1/4 * 48 + 7 \u003d 19 cm).

Through point G to the left and right we draw a horizontal line - it determines the level of the chest and the lower level of the armhole. The point of intersection with the line AN is denoted by G1, with the armhole width line - G2, with the line BH1 - G3.

From the point G upwards, set aside the value of the rear angle of the armhole, equal to GP2 = 1/3 of the distance PG + 2 cm, and put P2 (For example, GP2 = 1/3 * 19 + 2 = 8.3 cm).

Divide the angle at point G in half and draw a segment GP3 ​​equal to 1/10 of the width of the armhole + 1.5 cm and set point P3. These manipulations will help us beautifully draw the armhole line. (Armhole width = the size of the segment A1A2). (For example, GP3=1/10*12.0+1.5=2.7 cm).

Divide the GG2 line in half and put the point G4. By connecting the points P1, P2, P3 and G4, we get the armhole line of the back!

We proceed to the construction of the armhole line of the shelf

From the point G2 upwards, we postpone the segment G2P4 \u003d 1/4 * Pog + W. (We also choose the W coefficient depending on the type of posture: 5 cm for normal; 4.5 cm for stooped; 5.5 cm for kinky). (For example: G2P4=1/4*48+5=17 cm). We put the point P4.

From the point P4 to the left, set aside P4P5 \u003d 1/10 * POG and set the point P5. (For example: 1/10 * 48 \u003d 4.8 cm).

From the point G2 upwards, we draw the segment G2P6 equal to 1/3 of the value of G2P4 and set P6. (D2P6=1/3*17=5.7 cm).

And now let's perform a few auxiliary constructions to draw a beautiful armhole. Points P5 and P6 will be connected by a straight line and divided in half.

Then to this line to the right, at a right angle, set aside 1 cm. Divide the angle at point G2 in half and draw a segment G2P7 equal to 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm (for example, G2P7 \u003d 1/10 * 12.0 + 0.8 \u003d 2.0 cm). We put the point P7. P5,1,P6,P7,G4 we connect with a smooth curve - the line of the armhole in front.

Building the neck of the shelf

From the point G3 upwards, we set aside the value G3V1 \u003d 1/2 * POG + R. (We select the R coefficient depending on the posture: 1.5 cm for normal and kinky; 1 cm for stooped). (For example, 1/2 * 48 + 1.5 = 25.5 cm). And then we put point B1.

From the point G2 upwards, set aside a value equal to G3V1 and set the point B2. Then we connect B1 and B2.

From point B1 to the left, set aside B1B3 \u003d 1/3 * POSH + 0.5 cm and set point B3. B1B3 - neck width. (For example: 1/3*18+0.5=6.5cm).

From B1 we lay down the segment B1B4 \u003d 1/3 * POSH + 2cm and put the point B4 (For example, 18:3 + 2 \u003d 8cm). We connect B3 and B4 with a straight line and divide it in half. В1В4 - neck depth.

From point B1 through the division point we draw a line on which we set aside the segment B1B5 \u003d 1/3 * POSH + 1cm and set point B5. (For example 18:3+1=7cm). We connect points B3, B5 and B4 with a smooth line and get the neck of the shelf.

Construction of a tuck

From the point G3 to the left we postpone the segment G3G6, which is equal to the position of the center of the chest. We denote it by the point G6.

From G6 we draw a perpendicular line up to the intersection with the line B1B2. At the intersection we put point B6. From V6 downwards we postpone V6G7 \u003d VG and set the point G7.

Then, in the same way, from point B6 down, set aside 1 cm and set point B7. Then, points B7 and P5 are connected by an auxiliary segment.

Along the line P5 V7 from the point P5 to the right, we lay off the segment P5V8 equal to the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment V3V7 and minus 0.3 cm (For example, V3V7 \u003d Dp-V3V7-0.3 \u003d 13.5-3-0.5 \u003d 10.2 cm) . We put point B8.

From point G7 through point B8 we draw a segment G7V9 along the length equal to segment G7V7. The resulting point is denoted B9.

We connect points B9 and P5. G7V9 and G7V6 - sides of the tuck, P5V9 + V7V3 - shoulder length.

Back side seam

Continue the line A1D down, perpendicular to the lines of the waist and hips, until the intersection with BB1. At the intersection, points T2 and B2 are formed.

Back retraction

Set aside 1.5 cm from the T point to the right and put the To point. Connect points A To B in series. From point To to the right at a right angle to line A To, we draw a line until it intersects with the straight line GT2, we get point T21.

Side seam of the shelf

Point G6 lies on the line GG2, from G2 to the left at a distance of 1/3 of the width of the armhole (G6G2=1/3 GG2=1/3*12=4cm) From this point we lower the perpendicular down to the intersection with the line BB1. Points T3 B3 are formed. From the point T3 up the distance is equal to T2T21, set the point ku T31. We connect points T21 and T31 with a straight line, slightly extending it to the right, by about 2 cm.

Calculation of the depths of darts at the waist

The sum of all darts at the waist (denoted by V) is equal to the Width of the grid of the drawing minus the amount of the bend, minus OT (half circumference of the waist) and minus the amount of tightening of the corsage, if a slimming corsage is planned. V \u003d (AB-1.5 cm) -OT \u003d (50-1.5 cm) -37.8 cm \u003d 10.7 cm is the total amount of all solutions, which must be distributed over the sections of all waist darts:

• on the back - 2.7 cm
• on the shelf - 2.5 cm
• side seam 3 cm
• side tuck on the shelf 2.5 cm.

Waist tuck locations

Back tuck. Divide G1G in half and from this point lower the perpendicular line down to the intersection with BB2. This is the center line of the tuck on the back. At the intersection with the waist line, it forms a point T21.

Shelf tuck. From the point G7, lower the perpendicular down to the intersection with B3B1. This is the center line of the tuck on the shelf. At the intersection with the waist line, it forms a point T31.

Side tuck on the shelf located on the G6B3 axis

Tuck in side seam- on the GB2 axis.

We form tucks

First, we need to determine the degree of fit of the pattern on the hips. Vbed. \u003d (OB + 1.0 cm) -BB1 \u003d (51 + 1) -50 \u003d 2 cm. Now 2/4 \u003d 0.5 cm. We put this value on the straight line BB1, on both sides of the points B2 and B3. We put points B21, B22, B31, B32.

On both sides of the point T22, we set aside segments equal to 1/2 * 2.7cm = 1.35cm. Further, from the point dividing G1G in half, down through the points of these segments located at a distance of 1.35 cm from the center line of the tuck, lower two lines connecting at a point on the center line located at a distance from the line BB2 4 cm up.

Dart on axial GB2. From point T21 on both sides ½ * 3 cm = 1.5 cm. The lower end of the left side of the tuck ends at point B22, the right end at point B21.

Side tuck on the shelf. From point T31 on both sides ½ * 2.5 cm = 1.25 cm. The lower end of the left side of the tuck lies at point B32, the lower right end at point B31. Dart on the shelf From point T32 on both sides ½*2.5cm=1.25cm. The right (closest to the middle of the front) of the newly formed points will be denoted by T32a. The lower end of the tuck does not reach the BB1 ​​line by 4 cm. The upper end of the tuck does not reach the center of the chest by 4 cm.

If Vbed.= zero, then nothing needs to be done.

If Vbad. = negative number, then pay attention to the design of the details at the level of the hips, they should be narrowed.

Top and bottom bodice trim

The top line of the bodice. On the midline of the back at a distance of 18 cm from the waist line (TT1), we put a point, from which we draw a smooth line to a point lying on the side of the chest tuck at a distance of 10 cm from point G7 - point P61. The line connecting these points is a smooth curve with a deflection at point P7.

In the chest area, the upper section of the bodice is limited by a straight line running from the point of the chest tuck lying on the side at a distance of 10 cm from the G7 point - a new point G61, to a point on the mid-front line upwards from the G3 point by 2 cm.

Decoration of the central part of the corset

From point T32a, draw a straight line through point G7, until it intersects with an arc drawn from point G7, radius G7G61.

Measure the distance from point D61 to point P61 + 1.5 cm (this increase in the opening will help to avoid the top of the corset lagging behind the figure) and set it aside in an arc to the left of the point formed at the intersection of the arc with the straight line T32aG7. Draw a straight line from point G7 until it intersects with an arc at a newly formed point.

Reshape the upper cut of the corsage, taking into account the newly built tuck.

Making the bottom cut of the corsage passes through a point lying on the line of the middle cut of the back, at a distance equal to 10 cm from the point T0 down. To a point on the side seam of the back 10 cm from the waist down. And further, from a point symmetrical to it on the side seam of the shelf to a point on the right side of the side tuck of the shelf, lying on a straight line from point T31 down, then continue building from a point symmetrical to it on the left side of the tuck, then to the beginning of the waist tuck on the shelf and further to mid front at a right angle. The line of the lower cut of the bodice is a slightly convex curve passing at right angles at the junction.

We will correct the configuration of the relief part of the corsage in the chest area with smooth lines, in accordance with the natural curves of the body. On the left side of the newly formed, translated, chest tuck, a slightly convex curve, repeating the roundness of the chest, through the point G7, then down to the point formed by the solution of the tuck at the waist, along its left side, slightly bending the curve under the chest, for a better fit to the figure . Further down to the bottom cut of the corsage. All lines of corsage details should also be smooth.

The pattern-base of the corsage is ready.

Its construction on the basis of an adjacent silhouette by individual measurements guarantees you the best fit, unlike other methods, because. takes into account all the nuances of the figure. Having it at hand, you will always be able to model a variety of models of corsages, changing the location and slope of the reliefs, the configuration of the top and bottom lines. Leaving unchanged such important components as tuck solutions, the position of the point of the center of the chest, the total volume of the corset.

Many do not undertake to sew such products due to lack of experience and special knowledge. In fact, either a corsage dress is not difficult - "the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing it." The main thing is to follow the instructions exactly and know some of the sewing features of this beautiful piece of clothing.

Corsage or corset?

To begin with, let's deal with the definitions of what is what in order to avoid confusion.

So what is it? This is an independent item of women's clothing, which tightens the lower part of the chest and stomach to give the figure the desired shape. The corset favorably models the silhouette, reduces the waist circumference. Its main distinguishing feature is the dragging function. As a rule, a corset is a multi-layer product with pads between the layers. The corset keeps its shape due to specially inserted hard elastic bones, and is pulled together with the help of lacing, which is usually located at the back, but can also be at the front, from one or both sides. The permissible maximum reduction in the waist without harm to health is 8 cm.

A corsage is a part of a woman's dress that is tightly fitted over the body, covering the chest, back and sides, and does not have a slimming effect. It can be both an independent product and part of a dress.

Corset based bodice

is an adapted version of the corset. Cups can be inserted into the bodice of such a product, which visually increase and lift the bust. Based on it, you can sew a dress. Details of the bodice are cut out without allowances for freedom of fitting.

If it is necessary to achieve a slimming effect, excess fabric is taken into the relief seams during the fitting.

Features of sewing a dress with a corsage

• Plastic bones are inserted into the drawstrings (tunnels), sewn from the wrong side to the seams, or formed by sewing allowances on the part. From the front side, such lines look like finishing ones.
• Across the drawstrings, into which the bones are inserted, are fastened with bartacks along the line of allowances.
• Corsage sticks or a ribbon with corsage sticks are inserted into the relief seams in front, back and right side seam. The lightning will be located on the left.
• If the bodice of the dress is below the waist, then it is better to refuse from, whalebone and other plastic inserts. Since in the process of wearing they bend, leaving creases that can no longer be corrected. In this case, for a dress with a corsage, special sticks are used on a dense fishing line, the ends of which are packed and rounded. They come in different lengths, bend well, but then restore their original shape without the formation of creases on the product.
• If it is necessary to tighten the tummy more, we make the maximum adjustments to the pattern in front.
• If you want to emphasize the waist - we make adjustments to the side seams.
• To strengthen the details from the inside, it is better to use cotton calico for collars and cuffs as an adhesive.

Corsage

Dresses with bodice

How to sew a seductive corsage with your own hands, you will learn from the master class.

From personal experience

I made two corsage dresses. The first is in jacquard fabric, model 107 from Burda 3/2010. The second dress (pictured) is , model 125 from BURDA 1/2012.

In both the first and second cases, I used cotton with elastane, as dense as denim. I cut out the outer and inner details of the bodice and back from the main fabric. Each detail was duplicated with fabric dublerin. The corsage turned out to be quite dense, so I refused to use corsage sticks or ribbon with corsage sticks. The dresses are very comfortable, the corsage bodice does not wrinkle, does not move out and keeps its shape perfectly. After washing in the machine, the products completely retained their original appearance.