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Mint: growing from seeds at home and in the garden. Growing mint Mint leaves in holes

Breast cancer

Mint - has a low, outstretched stem, it can reach a length of up to 1 m, with pubescent shoots. Mint leaves are round, ovate or oblong with a pointed tip. Their edges are jagged. The leaf blades are pubescent on the front and bottom sides, less often bare with short petioles. Of all the plants belonging to the Lamiaceae family, mint has the most simple flowers. In peppermint, these flowers are small with bell-shaped cups, reddish-violet, hairy and collected in round half-whorls, forming spike-shaped inflorescences. Mint blooms from June to September. Mint is pollinated by flies and beetles.


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Introduction……………………………………………………………...3

Chapter 1. Biological features of mint....................................4-5

1.2. Types of mint………………………………………………………………...5-13

Chapter 2.Features of mint agricultural technology………………...……13-15

Chapter 3. The meaning of mint……………………………………...15-18

Chapter 4. Pests and diseases of mint, as well as measures to combat them……………………………………………………………………………………….18-21

Conclusion…………………………………………..……….22-23

Literature…………………………………………………….…23


INTRODUCTION

Mint names of plants from the Lamiaceae (Lamiaceae) family. The most ancient mentions of mint date back to Assyrian and ancient Egyptian culture; its description was found on cuneiform waxed tablets, as well as in the tombs of Egyptian pharaohs. Hippocrates and Avicenna mentioned mint when describing the medicinal properties of this plant in their works. The modern name for the plant was given by the ancient Greeks in honor of the nymph Menta. She was the beloved of Hades, the ruler of the underworld, and when his jealous wife Persephone found out about the betrayal, she turned the nymph into a plant in revenge. Hades was upset, but all he could do was give the plant a characteristic fragrant aroma.

Purpose This course work is to study the literature on the topic “New varieties of mint: biology and agricultural technology,” as well as conduct an experimental part on growing mint. To achieve this goal, the following were identified: tasks :

  • Describe the biological features of mint.
  • Consider the meaning of mint
  • Explore different varieties of mint.
  • Describe the features of mint agricultural technology.
  • Describe mint pests and measures to combat them.
  • Conduct an experimental part on growing different varieties of mint at home.

CHAPTER 1.BIOLOGICAL FEATURES OF MINT

Mint has a low, outstretched stem, it can reach a length of up to 1 m, with pubescent shoots. Mint leaves are round, ovoid or oblong with a pointed tip. Their edges are jagged. The leaf blades are pubescent on the front and bottom sides, less often bare with short petioles. Of all the plants belonging to the Lamiaceae family, mint has the most simple flowers. In peppermint, these flowers are small with bell-shaped cups, reddish-violet, hairy and collected in round half-whorls, forming spike-shaped inflorescences. Mint blooms from June to September. Mint is pollinated by flies and beetles.

During the growing season, mint goes through the following phases of development: emergence, branching, budding and flowering. The onset, passage and duration of these phases are directly dependent on the growing conditions.

In years with less precipitation during the growing season, accelerated development and occurrence of individual phases is observed in a shorter period, and in years with high precipitation there is a delay in phases, despite the fact that average temperatures fluctuate within the same limits.

And this wonderful plant blooms all summer. But it must be said that such a wonderful plant, which is mint, is also grown artificially, and all this happens only due to the fact that this plant is an essential oil plant. Mint loves moisture very much, so it can often be found near bodies of water, and it grows in damp forests. So you have a chance to meet it in swampy and damp places in the forest.

There is another type of plant that is very close to mint. This is lemon balm. It is even often called lemon balm. And in appearance this plant is also very similar to mint, but a very significant difference is that it has a lemon smell. This plant is widespread in more southern latitudes, so it is difficult to find it in the taiga.

The main component of mint is menthol. Mint also contains a large amount of essential oils. And for the sake of this component, it is cultivated artificially. Thanks to the pleasant, cool, refreshing and aromatic taste of its dark green leaves, mint is widely used in the culinary, confectionery, liquor and tobacco industries. It is added to teas, soft drinks, syrups, ice cream and candies. Mint powder is added to minced meat. Mint sauce goes well with lamb dishes. In the form of fresh greens, it is added to soups and salads.

1.1.TYPES OF MINT

Type of mint

Peculiarities

Usage

Peppermint (Mentha piperita) Peppermint

This species is grown in many countries. The plants reach a height of 80 cm and are easily recognized by their serrated leaves with a purple edge. The leaves have a pleasant smell and a refreshing cooling taste.

There are two forms of peppermint: black and white. The most intensively cultivated is black (also called English) mint, which gives a significantly higher yield of essential oil than white mint. White mint is less commonly cultivated, which produces less essential oil, but with a more subtle aroma.

Peppermint combines taste benefits and medicinal effects. Peppermint oil is included in many medicinal preparations: mint drops, stomach tablets, various ointments.

Essential oil also serves as a raw material for the production of menthol, the main component of mint essence, which is added to toothpastes, powders, and colognes.

In home cooking, mint is used in making drinks, adding leaves to fruit drinks, compotes, jelly, and syrups. They season meat dishes (lamb, lamb), as well as poultry. Dry ground mint is added to homemade baked goods: buns, pies, cookies.

Peppermint is included in liqueur flavorings.

mint (Mentha spicata Huds.) Spearmint

This mint can most often be found in gardens and vegetable gardens. The plants are quite powerful, about 90 cm high.

The main substance of mint essential oil is carvone, so it does not have such a strong cooling and burning effect as peppermint.

Garden mint was the first to be used in cooking, as well as in the production of chewing gum, alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. Added to tea.

In addition, it is used to flavor toothpaste, in soap making and perfumery.

The medicinal properties of this species are much less pronounced than those of peppermint.

Mint (Mentha crispa L.)

Can serve as a partial substitute for garden mint. It grows as a bush, reaching a height of 80-90 cm. It differs from other types of mint in its curly leaves and good frost resistance.

It combines the flavor properties of several mint plants, while maintaining its rather delicate and pleasant mint taste.

Peppermint differs from spearmint in the absence of a menthol flavor. It is widely used in cooking: more boldly than peppermint.

The leaves, rich in various beneficial substances, are boiled and used in folk medicine as a sedative, as well as to relieve pain from bruises and for medicinal baths.

Field mint (Mentha arvensis L.)

It grows in almost all corners of the planet, including Russia, most often in the wild. The bushes, reaching a height of 80 cm, have a branched stem and a large creeping rhizome.

Field mint lacks the pungent odor and cooling menthol taste characteristic of peppermint.

As a spice, field mint is used in raw and dried form to flavor salads, vegetable soups, fish dishes, when baking confectionery, and in preparing tonic drinks. Serves as an additive to teas.

It is also used to increase the shelf life of products, for example, when pickling cabbage.

In folk medicine, decoctions of field mint are used for headaches and inflammatory processes.

Longleaf mint(Mentha longifolia L. Huds.)

The plant of this species is quite powerful, reaching a height of 90-120 cm. It has a large creeping rhizome and a tetrahedral branched stem. The leaves are dark green with serrated-toothed edges and have a pleasant, delicate scent.

this species is mainly grown for its essential oil with a pleasant herbaceous-spicy odor. It has antiseptic, analgesic properties and improves digestion.

In home cooking, it is added to salads, vegetable soups and broths. Used to flavor main meat courses, especially fried beef and kebabs. Place in dough products (pies, gingerbread). Used for pickling eggplants and sauerkraut.

Longleaf mint is also used in the perfume industry and soap making.

Apple mint

(Mentha rotundifolia)

It grows as a bush up to 60 cm high. It differs from other species in its graceful, more rounded and velvety leaves. The aboveground part is dark green.

The delicate, less intense aroma of apple mint distinguishes it from other types of mint. It can be successfully added not only to salads, soups, meat dishes, but also to various drinks, sweet dishes and homemade baked goods..

Lemon mint. The stem is erect, branched, slightly pubescent, 80-100 cm high, heavily leafy. The leaves are opposite, round, ovate, jagged at the edges: they are dark green on the upper side, lighter below, covered with glandular hairs. The flowers are bisexual, white or pink, small, collected in false whorls, located in the axils of the upper leaves. The calyx is green, bell-shaped; corolla two-lipped. The fruits are ovoid, brown, 2 mm long and 1 mm in diameter.Demanding on warmth and light. It can also grow in shady places, but the yield decreases and the plant becomes less fragrant.

Peppermint - a perennial herbaceous plant with a horizontal branched rhizome and thin fibrous roots. Stem erect, 30 x 100 cm in height, hollow, tetrahedral, straight, branched, densely leafed, glabrous or with sparse short appressed hairs. The leaves are opposite, oblong-ovate, short-petiolate, pointed, with a heart-shaped base and a serrated edge. The flowers are small, bisexual or pistillate, light purple in color, collected at the tops of the shoots in semi-whorls forming spike-shaped inflorescences (thyrsus). The corolla is five-membered, slightly irregular (vaguely two-lipped), pinkish or pale purple. Blooms from late June to September. The fruit is a coenobium, consisting of four nuts. Fruits are rarely produced.

Chemical composition: plants contain essential oil, tannins and resins, carotene, hesperidin, ascorbic acid (0.0095%), chlorogenic acid (0.7%), coffee acid (0.52%), ursolic acid (0.3% ) and oleanolic (0.12%) acids, rutin (0.014%), betaine, arginine, neutral saponins, glucose, rhamnose, phytosterol. Fatty oil (20%) was found in the seeds.

The oil is colorless, with a yellowish or greenish tint, with a pleasant refreshing taste and smell. As it sits, it thickens and darkens. The main component of the essential oil is the secondary alcohol l-menthol (4592%). The leaf oil also contains menthol esters with acetic and valeric acids, α- and β-pinene, limonene, dipentene, phellandrene, cineol, citral, geraniol, carvone, dihydrocarvone.

Catnip - perennial herbaceous plant 40-100 cm high. Outwardly resembles mint. Stems are branched, tetrahedral. The leaves are opposite, cordate-ovate and oblong, pubescent, sharp, pollen-shaped. The flowers are five-membered, two-lipped, whitish, small, collected in dense paniculate-spike-shaped inflorescences. The flowers may be white or have a bluish-purple tint. Dry fruit that breaks down into 4 nuts. Catnip is a winter-hardy plant. Light- and moisture-loving. Prefers soil that is structural, light in mechanical composition, fairly fertile and free from weeds. It has a strong, unique odor and a pleasantly bitter taste that attracts cats. Grows among bushes, in vacant lots, near roads.

Melissa - perennial essential oil herbaceous plant 30x120 cm high, species of the genus Melissa ( Melissa ) family Lamiaceae ( Lamiaceae ). The rhizome is highly branched. The stem is branched, tetrahedral, pubescent with short hairs with an admixture of glands or almost bare. The leaves are opposite, petiolate, ovate to rounded-rhombic, crenate-serrate, pubescent. The flowers are collected in false rings of 6 x 12; calyx with lower subulate teeth, long-haired and glandular; the corolla is bluish-white or pale lilac. Four stamens, a pistil with a four-parted upper ovary and a long style. The fruit is large, consists of four ovoid nuts, black, shiny. Seeds remain viable for 2-3 years. Blooms in June-August. The fruits ripen in August–September. Melissa is less winter-hardy than catnip. Since lemon balm and catnip are often confused, it is important to pay attention to the external differences. Catnip forms apical inflorescences at the ends of branches, while lemon balm does not have them. Its flowers are located in whorls in the axils of the leaves of the upper part of the stem. Melissa leaves are light, bright green, while catnip leaves have a dull grayish tint.

Snakehead - perennial, often annual plant, 15x50 cm high.The root is thin, taproot.The stem is erect, tetrahedral, short-haired, branched from the base, with long branches directed obliquely upward. Leaves have short petioles, opposite, oblong-ovate or oblong-lanceolate, blunt-toothed at the edges, dark green; apical leaves lanceolate; The bracts are oblong-wedge-shaped. The flower of the Moldovan dragonhead, like other species of this genus, vaguely resembles the head of a snake (dragon). The flowers are pale purple, on short pedicels in six-flowered false whorls. The calyx is short-haired, two-lipped; corolla 20x25 mm long, white or bluish-violet, pubescent on the outside. The fruit is a triangular, oblong nut, dark brown in color, 2.8 x 3.1 mm long, 1.5 x 1.8 mm thick. Blooms in July/August. Fruits in August-September.

CHAPTER 2. FEATURES OF AGRICULTURAL MINT

Place of cultivation

Mint prefers a sunny location and fertile, deep, loose and fairly moist soil. It also tolerates shade well, but in this case the soil should be less moist. This crop grows especially well on moist, rich black soil. On calcareous soil it loses a lot of flavor. Places with excessive moisture and heavy clay soil are unsuitable for mint. The preceding plant can be various vegetables, under which the soil is fertilized with manure. Usually mint does not stay in one place for more than 2-3 years, since its shoots “migrate” from the planting site. After mint, potatoes, onions, green peas and other vegetables are planted.

Propagation and planting of mint

Mint is easily propagated vegetatively by rhizome cuttings, preferably in the 3-5 leaf phase. Cuttings are planted in the summer, and they are first rooted in the sand and then placed in a permanent place. Rhizomes from old bushes are divided and planted in spring or early autumn, placing them with row spacing of 50 x 60 cm, and in a row with spacing of 20 x 35 cm.

Planting is carried out in early spring (late April - early May) and in August. Soil preparation is done in advance. Before planting, the deeply cultivated and weed-free area for mint is finally cut up with a harrow, and then divided into ridges. In damp places they are made higher, and in dry areas, on the contrary, the ridges are deepened into the ground so that rainwater can be better retained. The cut rhizome cuttings are placed in the grooves made in the beds and covered with soil.

During the summer, the planting is loosened 2×3 times, weeds are regularly removed and fed by adding 10 m 2 250 x 300 g each of superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and potassium salt.

If you are going to grow mint in your garden or vegetable garden, keep in mind that mint has one drawback - it is quite aggressive and grows strongly, thanks to creeping rhizomes, occupying more and more new spaces. To prevent it from causing you a lot of trouble, you need to immediately protect it by burying restrictive strips of iron, plastic or slate at the depth of the rhizomes.

Mint care

Caring for mint involves loosening the soil, hilling, watering (as needed) and weeding. Plant feeding is carried out in early spring. To obtain more green mass in the spring as it grows, it is recommended to carry out severe pruning: the mint will bush better.

To protect against frost, the ridges are covered in the fall with a layer of loose soil, or covered with spruce branches, straw, dry leaves, spruce branches or manure. Mint plantings should be renewed every 3-4 years, as they have poor weed resistance and quickly fall out.

Preparation and storage of mint

Mint produces a harvest from the first year of life. Before eating fresh, remove the leaves from the stem and tear, cut or use whole, depending on the recipe. Fresh mint is added as a spicy herb to salads, lactic acid soups, meat, seafood and fish, bean and pea hot dishes. It should be borne in mind that heat treatment kills freshness, so it is recommended to add spice to hot dishes before serving.

Cut mint wilts very quickly on a hot day, so keep it in a cool place, wrapped in a damp kitchen towel or in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Mint also dries well. It is recommended to collect for drying in July-August, at the beginning of flowering, since the leaves during this period accumulate the greatest number of useful substances and are pleasant to the taste. The cut stems are dried in the shade in bunches, then the inflorescences and leaves are torn off, ground into a not very fine powder and stored in a tightly closed container in a dry, cool, place protected from the sun. In this form, mint retains its scent well all winter.

Growing mint in a container

When cultivating mint, you must remember that it grows quickly and can displace other crops from the site. Therefore, it is better to plant it in containers. For example, you can plant it in old metal and wooden containers, then you will be able to move it around the garden.

Most mint species have beautiful, pleasant-smelling leaves and flowers that attract bees and bumblebees. Therefore, it is quite right to grow this crop as an ornamental plant. In addition to large containers placed in the garden, it grows successfully in boxes or tubs on balconies and terraces, as it is a very unpretentious plant.

CHAPTER 3. MEANING OF MINT

Use in cooking:

For culinary purposes, both fresh and dried mint leaves and shoots are used, which have a characteristic cooling taste and a sharp menthol aroma. Fresh mint is added to salads, vegetable soups, fish and cheese dishes, meat marinades, drinks, sauces and used in the preparation of confectionery and baked goods.

In American cuisine, mint is used to flavor drinks and added to various fruit and vegetable salads; in English cuisine it is added to sauces for lamb, lamb and poultry; in Oriental, Italian and Spanish cuisines it is used as a spice or added to various spice mixtures.

From fresh leaves and shoots of mint, essential oil and menthol are obtained, which are widely used in the perfumery, confectionery, alcoholic beverage industries and in the production of medicines.

Application in medicine:

Mint is a valuable medicinal plant. It is used in official and folk medicine. Peppermint oil is included in validol, various drops, mint lozenges, cough drops, tooth powders and pastes. Mint leaves are used in the form of a water infusion as a means of improving digestion, against intestinal spasms, and nausea. Mint is included in delicious teas, carminative, choleretic, gastric, diaphoretic, sedative teas, as well as in aromatic bath teas. Mint relieves heartburn and bad belching. No wonder they say that it cools the mouth, but warms the intestines.

In scientific medicine, peppermint is used in the form of a menthol preparation, which is prepared from essential oil, as well as in the form of tincture and mint water (for rinsing). In order to improve digestion, plant leaves are consumed. Peppermint oil is included in medications that have antiseptic, anticonvulsant and tonic properties.

In folk medicine, peppermint is used quite widely. It is effective as a sedative for heart and nervous diseases, as a strengthening agent for loss of strength, it is used for cholera, rheumatism, toothache, and as a means of regulating the gastrointestinal tract. This plant is used as an auxiliary choleretic agent. A decoction of mint relieved diarrhea.

Mint is used for hemorrhoids, female diseases, and severe headaches as a fast-acting external remedy (in the form of fresh leaves). Mint is used for rickets, scrofula (in the form of tincture, juice or bath decoctions).

For bleeding from the lungs, a mint decoction is useful, and for bloody vomiting, a vinegar decoction is useful.

For severe bad breath, Bulgarian doctors recommend rinsing your mouth with an infusion of mint and red wine and at the same time taking this infusion orally, one tablespoon 2-3 times a day.

Application in cosmetics

Mint has long been used for cosmetic purposes. It is used for soothing and anti-inflammatory masks. Brew a tablespoon of mint with a glass of boiling water, cover with a lid, leave for half an hour and filter. The resulting infusion is used to wipe the inflamed areas. For sagging skin, a hot herbal compress made from a mixture is useful: peppermint, linden blossom in equal proportions. A tablespoon of raw material is brewed with a glass of boiling water, infused and filtered. The moistened napkin is lightly wrung out and applied to the face. Keep the compress for 8-10 minutes, soaking the fabric in the hot broth.

To refresh a tired face, make a contrasting compress of mint and cold water. Soak a napkin in hot mint infusion and hold it on your face for 2-3 minutes, then apply a napkin soaked in cold water. The procedure is repeated 2-3 times. For dry skin, make a mask of brewed dry mint (2 tablespoons of chopped herb, pour 50 g of water and heat). Apply the mask to a clean face and keep for 15-20 minutes. For acne-prone skin, it is good to make lotions from infusions of mint, horsetail, yarrow and sage in equal proportions. Pour one tablespoon of the mixture into a glass of boiling water, let it brew and strain. Apply the liquid to a clean face using a cotton swab.

Contraindications:

When consumed in large quantities, mint can cause poor sleep, heart pain and decreased libido in men.

Mint is contraindicated in case of individual intolerance, during pregnancy and lactation and in children under 5 years of age.

CHAPTER 4. PESTS, DISEASES OF MINT AND MEASURES TO CONTROL THEM

Mint is a plant attractive not only to humans, but also to many pests and diseases. Their list turns out to be very extensive and, accordingly, when growing mint, you need to be on the alert all the time.

It starts to bother me as soon as it grows back mint flea beetle (Longatarsus licopi Faudr.). Its rather small beetles and larvae, 1.5 mm in size, are straw-yellow in color and make round holes in the leaves. These pests are especially rampant if the spring is dry, without heavy rainfall and at the same time warm. The damage caused by this pest in some years can be very severe.

Another pest of mintgreen shieldweed(Cassida viridis L.), which also begins to rage immediately from the beginning of spring regrowth and during the period of intensive growth. Beetles and larvae make rounded holes in the leaves and gnaw off the edges.

Peppermint leaf beetle (Chrysomela menthastri Suffr) a small bug, 7-10 mm in size, green in color with a metallic sheen. Beetles and larvae chew holes and damage the edges of leaves.

Aphid (Aphis menthae L., Brachycaudus helichryi Kalt) - up to 2 mm in size, dark green, located in colonies at the bottom of the leaf. Basically, it damages the upper part of the shoot and the plant stops growing normally and forming full-fledged leaves. Destroyed during deep autumn digging. In some years it can noticeably affect plants.

Cicadas (Empoasca pteridis Dhlb) Adults and larvae suck the juice from the leaves and they begin to dry out. Young, growing plants are especially susceptible to attack by the pest.

Mint can be attacked from both sides weevils (Tanymecus palliatus F., Bothynoderes punctiventris Germ.) the beetles gnaw off the edges of the leaves, and the larvae quietly and unnoticed feed on the roots. The only joy is that this pest is not announced every year.

But the meadow moth (Pyrausta sticticalis L.), which can eat up the plant almost completely, in some years causes very severe damage.

Peppermint mite - a dangerous pest in the south. It overwinters in the soil at a depth of 10 cm. From May to August it feeds on the sap of the tops of shoots, and in August it goes into the soil for the winter. Distributed with planting material. Control measures: deep digging, treatment of planting material with acaricides and return of mint to its original place no earlier than after 3 years

Slobbering Penny- (Philaenus spumarius L.). Adults and larvae cause deformation of vegetative and generative shoots, and its presence is accompanied by the appearance of white foamy lumps on the stems and in the leaf axils.

If mint grows in combination with wheatgrass or in the place where potatoes grew last year, beware wireworm (larvae of click beetles), which gnaws the roots. Here the control measures are only preventive battle with wheatgrass and planting mint after crops that are not interesting to this pest.

In addition to the listed pests, mint can be damaged by all kinds of caterpillars, which, like the cabbage cutworm, round-winged moth and burdock, gnaw leaves, the meadow moth, whose caterpillars eat the entire above-ground mass, and, of course, the ubiquitous mole cricket, which gnaws the roots.

How to deal with all these numerous pests? Insecticides are used in production, for example deltamethrin (Decis), which is applied once in case of severe damage by these pests, but no later than 25-30 days before the intended harvest. However, in a summer cottage, in a craving for everything environmentally friendly, it is better to take preventive measures, that is, change the place where plants are planted at least once every 2 years, dig up the vacant area deeply, turning the soil, remove it on time and burn plant residues.

Against the pests listed above you canspray the plants with a concentrated decoction of celandine (leave 200 g of dry leaves in 10 liters of water for a day, then add soap and spray the affected plants). A concentrated decoction of bird cherry twigs or an infusion of pine needles (1:1) can help with the scoop.

Of the diseases on mint, the most harmful rust (Puccinia menthae Pers.), which is found in all mint growing areas. This is a fungal disease, the development of which is promoted by high humidity, low air temperatures, excess nitrogen in the soil, as well as perennial mint cultivation. Brown pads appear on the underside of the leaves, which later acquire a dark brown color. Rust is usually combated using preventative measures and spraying. But, for example, in the USA they invented a rather exotic method - burning out the above-ground part using a flamethrower with a propane-butane flame at a pressure of 2-4 atm. and unit speed 1 km/h.

Powdery mildew (Erysiphe cichoracearum DC f. menthae), which manifests itself in the fact that a white cobwebby coating appears on the leaves and stems in the 2nd half of the growing season. Later, black fruiting bodies with spores appear. This disease is very common in the Non-Chernozem zone, where wet and cool weather conditions in August provoke the active development of the disease. Control measures: autumn plowing to a depth of 20 cm; dusting with ground sulfur at a dose of 20 kg/ha; spraying with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur.

Verticillium wilt(wilt) a disease caused by a pathogenic fungus that penetrates through root hairs. The top 2-3 pairs of leaves turn black and the plant dies. Agrotechnical control measures: compliance with crop rotation, destruction of damaged plantations after harvesting. Replanting after 9 years.

Anthracnose (white grouse) - brown spots appear on leaves affected by the fungus. The fungus overwinters on dead remains. Control measures: plowing, 3-4 times spraying with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Septoria or leaf spot(Septoria menthicola Sacc) characteristic features are round or angular brown spots (up to 8 mm in size) on the leaves, limited by a black rim and covered with black dots. Control measures are the same as for anthracnose.

The growth of rhizomes is caused by mycoplasma (Micoplasma). Affected plants are stunted in growth, leaves acquire anthocyanin coloring, and rhizomes cease to form. With this disease, it is necessary to destroy damaged plants as quickly as possible and actively fight all gnawing and sucking pests that can transfer the disease from plant to plant. And, of course, transplanting healthy plants to another area. The optimal measures to combat all of the listed diseases are prevention: replant plants on time, cut off plant debris and burn them rather than compost. To avoid rust and powdery mildew, you can cut the crop at the end of July, before the disease begins to spread, and therefore without resorting to chemical means of protection. In addition, an important factor reducing resistance to powdery mildew is excess nitrogen nutrition. But adding phosphorus and viburnum, on the contrary, will increase the plant’s resistance.

CONCLUSION

This paper discusses “New varieties of mint: biology and agricultural technology.”

For a long time, mint has been considered the best plant that can stimulate brain function and improve memory. It was from it that wreaths were made, which were customary for all ancient speakers to wear. And before their performances, it was customary to spray the halls with mint water.

In addition, mint leaves were added to honey, which was eaten. It was believed that honey and mint could freshen breath. And Hippocrates, for diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, prescribed mint water, which was consumed internally.

So why is mint so different from other plants? The fact is that mint leaves contain a complex essential oil, which contains a large amount of menthol. This substance can cool and warm, and also has a pronounced stimulating effect. Who knows, maybe this is the reason why mint tea is so popular, which is usually drunk when you have a cold.

Menthol contained in mint can relax muscles and improve blood circulation. It is contained in many medications that are prescribed for problems with the cardiovascular system and smooth muscle spasms. Peppermint oil is widely used in perfumery.

If you have a headache or there are wounds or ulcers on your body, it is recommended to apply mint leaves to the sore spot. In dentistry, peppermint oil is added to toothpastes and powders. It can soothe toothache and freshen breath.

Tinctures, drops, and infusions of mint leaves are usually taken for inflammation, nausea, flatulence, etc.

An infusion of mint leaves helps relieve nausea, improves the functioning of the digestive system, and is used as a choleretic agent. Peppermint oil can help with diseases related to the heart and nervous system. This oil also helps in the fight against kidney stones, diseases of the digestive system, respiratory tract, and hypertension. Peppermint oil is an excellent remedy for insomnia. Mint leaves are often used externally for tumors and radiculitis. To do this, mint leaves must be crushed and brewed with boiling water: the resulting mass is applied to the skin.

Most often, mint leaves are combined with other herbs in various herbs and medicinal teas. Mint not only shares its healing properties, but also improves the taste of a particular infusion and gives it a refreshing aroma.

LITERATURE

1. Popov V.I., Shapiro D.K., Danusevich I.K. Medicinal plants. Minsk, 1990.

2. Mustyatse G.I. Peppermint culture. Chisinau, 1985.

3. Mashanov V.I., Pokrovsky A.A. Spicy aromatic plants. Moscow, 1991.

4. Shelkovskaya I.P., Zhukova T.Ya., Katsnelson T.A., Kravtsov P.I., Lavrushenko I.P., Radyuk A.F. "Master". Minsk, 1999.

5. Gammerman A.F., Kadaev G.N., Yatsenko-Khmelevsky A.A. Medicinal plants. M.: Higher school, 1990.

6.Internet resources.

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Mint is susceptible to various diseases, the most harmful of which are rust, powdery mildew, downy mildew, fusarium, ascochyta, septoria, sprouting, etc. The strong development of diseases on mint leads to a decrease in yield and a decrease in the essential oil content in the raw material.

Rust.

The disease is widespread in all areas of crop cultivation, with the exception of the Issyk-Kul depression. The causative agent is the basidiomycete fungus Puccinia menthae (Pers.), which goes through 5 successively alternating stages characteristic of rust fungi. Edidia appear in the spring on stems in the form of orange pads. They are formed from diffusely overwintered mycelium in the rhizomes of mint, which continues to develop in the spring at a temperature of 9... 10°. 15-20 days after the formation of aecidia, pinpoint brown, dusty uredopustules appear on the underside of the leaves. During the growing season, uredostasta produces up to 8 generations. Severely affected leaves turn yellow and fall off. In August, telytospores gradually form in the uredopustules, causing the pustules to take on the appearance of black raised dots. Teleitospores overwinter and in the spring they germinate into basidia with basidiospores, giving rise to the aecidial stage. Consequently, the sources of infection can be the mycelium of mint rhizomes and telytospores of plant residues.

Crop losses, depending on weather conditions, are 25-50%, the yield of essential oil is reduced by 75-84%. Particularly severe damage is observed after the 1st mowing in conditions of long-term use of plantations. When mint is slightly affected by rust, the oil content in the leaves increases.

Mint varieties are not equally susceptible to rust. However, resistant varieties retain this property only in certain areas. For example, the variety Vysokomentholnaya 1 is affected in Ukraine, but in the conditions of Primorye it is not affected. The variety Krasnodarskaya 2, resistant in the Moscow region, is affected in the conditions of the North Caucasus and Ukraine.

Powdery mildew.

The disease is significantly widespread in the Krasnodar region, Kyrgyzstan, and Ukraine. It develops poorly in the Non-Chernozem Zone. Absent in Primorye and Latvia. It is caused by the marsupial fungus Erysiphe cichoracearum f. menthae Jacz. A characteristic whitish coating appears on the leaves, consisting of mycelium, conidiophores and conidia. In the 2nd half of the growing season, fruiting bodies - cleistothecia in the form of black dots - are formed on the surface of the plaque. When the leaves are severely damaged early by powdery mildew, they fall off prematurely.

The source of infection is plant debris on which the marsupial stage is formed. Secondary infection is carried out by asexual sporulation conidia; they are easily carried by the wind and cause further infection of plants throughout the growing season.

Mint is most severely affected by powdery mildew in years with hot weather and a relative humidity of 75-80%. With an average degree of disease development, the yield is reduced by 13-25°/o Epiphytotics lead to even greater yield losses. The yield of essential oil is reduced by 10-25%.

VILR employees have found that rust-resistant mint varieties are more susceptible to powdery mildew. Conversely, varieties that are very susceptible to rust are more resistant to powdery mildew.

The disease occurs in Ukraine, Primorsky and Krasnodar territories. The causative agent is fungi from the genus Fusarium.

Plants are stunted in growth, lose turgor, and the stem at the root part darkens. In humid weather, the affected area becomes covered with a whitish, and later pinkish, coating of sporulation of the fungus. In dry weather, such plants dry out, and in wet weather they rot.

The disease is severely manifested in years with low air temperatures and insufficient soil moisture. On soils with heavy mechanical composition, it is focal in nature. With the strong development of Fusarium wilt in some areas, up to half of the crop dies. The source of infection is contaminated soil and plant debris.

The causative agent is the imperfect fungus Phyllosticta menthae Pers. When infected, small, rounded white spots with a convex brown rim form on the leaves. In the middle of the spot, pycnidia appear in the form of black dots over time. Severely affected leaves drop prematurely.

The source of infection is the affected plant debris, on which the fungus overwinters in the form of pycnidia. The optimal temperature for the development of the disease is 23...28°.

Anthracnose.

The causative agent is the imperfect fungus Sphaceloma menthae Jenk. from the order Melanconiaceae. At the end of May - beginning of June, small brown spots appear on the petioles, leaves and stems. On the leaves in the center they gradually turn white, dead tissue often falls out. On the stems, the spots take on an oblong, depressed shape. With severe damage, the leaves fall off, the affected stems become thin and twisted.

The main source of infection is crop residues. Secondary infection is carried out by conidia.

Mint grown by seedlings suffers more from anthracnose. This disease, like phyllostictosis, does not affect mint every year, so it does not cause noticeable harm.

Ascochytaosis.

The causative agent is Ascochyta leonuri Ell. et Dearn. Small spots with scattered brown pycnidia appear on the leaves and stems. On the stems they sometimes merge 2-3 together. The leaves dry out and fall off prematurely, the shoots become bent, and if the infection is severe, the plants are stunted in growth.

The infection persists on the affected leaves and stems of mint in the form of pycnidia, in which spores form. The causative agent of ascochyta blight in mint also affects the leaves of motherwort and catnip, so these weeds can be reservoirs of infection.

The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Septoria menthae Oudem. Round or angular spots with a dark purple, almost black border and a lighter center appear on the leaves in June. In the center of the spots, as with all septoria, pycnidia form in the form of black dots. The fabric of the stains cracks and falls out over time. The infection persists in the form of pycnidia on fallen leaves.

The disease is more common in floodplains and lowlands, i.e. in places with high humidity, at a temperature of 22...27°.

The symptoms of septoria blight, ascochyta blight and phyllostictosis have much in common, so microscopy of sporulation is required to identify a specific disease.

Downy mildew.

The causative agent is a fungus of the Oomycete class - Peronospora stigmaticola Reunk. The disease is very harmful. Affects inflorescences and leaves. On flower petals, stigmas and stamen filaments, a delicate, barely noticeable loose coating of grayish color with a pale purple tint develops. Light green blurry spots appear on the upper side of the leaves; on the underside the spots are covered with a faint coating of sporulation of the fungus. Severely affected leaves become deformed and fall off prematurely, the inflorescences become brown and dry out, and they rot in rainy weather.

The source of infection is mycelium and oospores on plant debris and mint plants during its long-term cultivation. Reinfection occurs due to asexual sporulation conidia, which form en masse on the affected parts of mint under conditions of high relative humidity and moderate temperature. The disease develops more strongly in poorly ventilated areas and in damp, low-lying areas.

Overgrowth.

Overgrowth is caused by mycoplasma microorganisms. Sick plants can be noticed already at the beginning of mint regrowth. They noticeably lag behind in growth and acquire anthocyanin coloring. Rhizomes do not form or appear densely sprouted, but with shoots that do not reach the soil surface. Another sign is the formation of a large number of thin shoots, the inflorescences of which in most cases are hypertrophied with overgrown sepals. In some varieties, these shoots extend from the base parallel to the central stem, while in others, abundant formation of shoots occurs in the upper part of the bush.

System of protective measures against peppermint diseases.

Mint is grown only in crop rotation. The best predecessors are winter grains, leguminous crops, root crops and perennial grasses. For planting mint, flat, low-lying areas with fertile soils of light mechanical composition, free from weeds, are allocated. Before planting, create a loose arable horizon up to 27-30 cm deep. The addition of borate and zinc superphosphate under plowing reduces rust damage to plants.

Healthy planting material is used for planting. Mint is propagated by seedlings and rhizomes, the best of which are segments 15-18 cm long. Recently, it has been practiced to plant mint with seedlings, which are first dipped in 1% Bordeaux mixture for 10-15 minutes.

It is important to form an optimal plant density. Mint is planted in a row with row spacing of 60-70 cm, burying the rhizomes to a depth of 8-10 cm. Thickening leads to more severe rust and spotting.

Caring for plantations in the 1st year of growing season consists of early spring harrowing, cultivating row spacing to a depth of 10-12 cm until the rows close together with the simultaneous destruction of weeds.

On transitional mint plantations, during autumn thinning of plantings, a 20 cm wide strip is left. Spring care of such plantings consists of spring harrowing in 1-2 traces, subsequent cultivation and application of mineral fertilizers.

When rust appears on the leaves, they are treated with fungicides: 1st - at the beginning of mint branching, the next two - with an interval of 10-14 days. Liquid consumption for ground spraying is 600-800 l/ha. To protect against powdery mildew, sulfur preparations or fungicides are used to suppress the development of the pathogen. In case of strong development of rust or powdery mildew, as well as other diseases such as spotting, it is advisable to start cleaning at the beginning of budding, which prevents severe shedding of leaves.

When post-harvest mint grows more than 10-15 cm, it is mowed down and plant debris is removed.

Peppermint has been valued for many years for its amazing taste and medicinal qualities, which is why this plant is often grown in home gardens. Parts of this vegetation are successfully used for cosmetic purposes, as well as in cooking and traditional medicine recipes.

The green mint leaf beetle is most often found in European territory. He loves to enjoy essential oil crops, so he often chooses lemon balm or mint.

After a month and a half, mature females begin laying eggs on mint inflorescences - in one season, one individual can lay about 200 eggs. The breeding season of the green mint leaf beetle lasts from June to early September.

Both larvae and beetles usually accumulate on mint shoots in fairly large quantities, which ultimately causes damage and subsequent drying of the plantings. The second generation of leaf beetles appears in early October.

The larvae go through 4 stages of development and develop in the egg for up to 3 days. They are highly sensitive, so at the slightest danger or touch they curl up and fall to the ground. The larvae of the green mint leaf beetle cause serious damage to mint plantings: they skeletonize the leaves, make through holes in them and eat around the edges.

To pupate, the larvae go into the ground, going to a depth of 2-3 centimeters. A week later they turn into pupae, and in August new bugs fly out. During the season, 2 generations of mint pest develop.

Leaf beetles pose a real threat to many agricultural crops. To combat them, an integrated approach is used, based on mechanical, biological and chemical destruction of individuals.

At the first detection of individuals on the site, you can try to collect the adults manually. Preventive measures include timely pruning of diseased parts of the plant and their subsequent destruction, burning of fallen autumn leaves and any plant waste, deep digging of the soil after harvesting before frost.

The preparations Actellik and Fosbecid are used for spraying with insecticides, but it is strictly recommended to stop their use 40 days before harvest.

In addition, it is advisable to use folk recipes against insects - spray mint with an infusion of hot pepper or tomato tops. A good effect is obtained by treating plants with infusion of chamomile and dusting the soil with tobacco dust. In addition, it is recommended to promptly get rid of weeds that can attract the mint leaf beetle to the area.

Some amateur gardeners believe that mint does not need care: plant it and forget it. This is a misconception - like other cultivated plants, aromatic grass responds to care with high yields and does not create problems. If the plantings are not given any attention, they can get sick and be attacked by pests. For example, the appearance of a white coating on mint signals the presence of a common disease - powdery mildew. Only timely help will save the situation and allow you to enjoy the inimitable taste of a drink made from fresh leaves, as well as prepare them for future use.

People appreciate mint for its taste, pleasant smell and content of nutrients. However, this crop also attracts many pests and pathogens. Having planted herbs on your site, you should not leave it without proper attention.

Prevention measures:

  • do not leave plants in one place for a long time;
  • cut off the stems after harvest and burn them;
  • reduce nitrogen content in the soil;
  • apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Rust

A dangerous fungal disease is widespread everywhere. It is expressed in the appearance of orange pads on the back of the leaves, which become brown over time.

The occurrence of the disease is associated with cool weather, high humidity, and excess nitrogen in the soil.

Infected plantings need to be sprayed with fungicides, which is permissible only at the beginning of plant development. The risk of the disease also depends on the variety of mint.

Powdery mildew cannot be confused with anything: a whitish coating on the leaves and stems entangles plants like a cobweb. This phenomenon is typical for adult plants. Subsequently, the appearance of black fruiting bodies filled with spores is observed. The disease is stimulated by the August cold snap, heavy dew and increased air humidity. The fight consists of spraying the bushes with a weak solution of colloidal sulfur and pollination with ground sulfur. In autumn, deep plowing of the site is indicated. Interestingly, mint varieties susceptible to powdery mildew are not affected by rust, and vice versa.

A fungal attack causes a slowdown in plant growth, loss of elasticity, and darkening of the lower part of the stem. In hot weather the plantings dry out, in rainy weather they rot. The risk of Fusarium wilt increases in cold or dry summers in the absence of watering. The source of infection is plant debris and contaminated soil. Without treatment, most of the crop dies.

Phyllosticosis

Infection is indicated by leaves covered with small round white spots with a brown rim. Later, black dots - pycnidia - form in the center of the spot, and the leaves begin to fall off. The fungal pathogen remains to overwinter in plant debris and is activated at a temperature of +23...+28 degrees.

Anthracnose

The disease is expressed by brown spots that gradually turn white in the center of the leaves, which cover all organs of the plant. Serious damage leads to falling leaves, bending and thinning of the stems.

In most cases, the infection is hidden in plant debris.

Mint grown from seedlings has a higher risk of anthracnose infection. However, this disease is not so widespread as to cause significant damage to the crop.

Ascochyta blight

During the disease, spots with brown pycnidia, grouped in groups of 2-3, become noticeable on the stems and leaves. The growth of the bushes slows down, the stems become bent, and the leaves dry out and fall off. Often, the fungus moves from catnip or motherwort, so the proximity of these crops should be avoided.

Septoria

The manifestation of a fungal disease is light spots with a dark edging, round or triangular in shape. Black dots with pycnidia form in the middle of the spots. Cracks appear in this area and the fabric falls out over time. The infection most often affects plantings located in wetlands and places with close groundwater, at an air temperature of +22...+27 degrees.

Downy mildew

A dangerous disease that affects leaves and inflorescences. Symptoms include a barely noticeable, gray-violet coating on the flowers and greenish shapeless spots on the outside of the leaves. The development of the disease leads to deformation and falling of leaves, a change in the color of the inflorescences to brown and their drying out. Rainy weather activates mint rot. Infection occurs by preserving the spores and mycelium of the fungus in the harvest residues. The chances of disease occurrence are reduced in dry, elevated areas exposed to wind.

sprouting

The disease caused by microplasma microorganisms manifests itself from the moment the seedlings appear. Plants are stained with an anthocyanin tint, are stunted in growth and do not form a root system. Otherwise, many thinned shoots with hypertrophied inflorescences are formed.

Mint pests and methods of controlling them

Insect pests, attracted by the bright mint aroma, negatively affect the development of plantings.

This culture has many dangerous enemies, including:

  • mint flea;
  • mint leaf beetle;
  • mint mite.

It annoys mint plants from the moment they grow, making holes in the leaves. Yellow bugs and larvae become active in warm, dry spring. In favorable seasons they cause significant damage to the crop. To combat insects during leaf formation, the Actellica solution is used.

A small green beetle with a bronze tint and its larvae gnaw at the edges of the leaves and make holes in them. A large concentration of the pest can destroy mint plantations. For prevention purposes, planting plants on ridges with wide row spacing is recommended. Treatment with infusion of chamomile and hot pepper is effective. In advanced cases, Metaphos or Chlorophos is used.

Mainly covers the southern territories. It comes to the surface of the soil in May and feeds on the juice of the upper part of the stems until August.

Deep autumn digging of ridges, burning of plant residues, replanting mint every two years and treatment with acaricidal preparations help to cope with insects.

In addition to these types of insect pests, the following are dangerous to mint:

  • Cicadas. They prefer to suck the juices from young seedlings.
  • Weevils. The larvae eat the root system, while the adults gnaw off the edges of the leaves.
  • Meadow moths. A single specimen can destroy an entire plant.
  • Drooling pennies. The damage is caused by adult insects and larvae that deform the shoots of the crop. They reveal themselves as foamy lumps located on the stems and in the axils of the foliage.
  • Wireworms. The larvae of the click beetle gnaw the rhizomes. They remain in the soil from potatoes or are transmitted from wheatgrass.
  • Medvedki. They destroy the roots, causing the mint to die.

The fragrant plantings are also pestered by caterpillars of the burdock, round-winged moth, meadow moth and cabbage cutworm.

General pest control measures include the use of insecticides if the damage to plantings is too severe.

One-time spraying is allowed a month before harvest. This method is used as a last resort!

If you follow agrotechnical practices, preventive procedures are sufficient to minimize the risk of mint being affected by diseases and pests. In addition to the methods described above, plantings can be treated with a decoction of celandine, prepared from 200 g of leaves per bucket of water (let it stand for a day, after which a soap solution is added, and the decoction is ready). Some insects are repelled by an infusion of pine needles and a decoction of bird cherry branches.

You can add infusions to the list of environmentally friendly preparations for controlling garden pests:

  • onion;
  • garlic;
  • tobacco;
  • dandelion;
  • yarrow.

The healing properties of mint are used in folk medicine, the cosmetic industry and pharmacology. Gardeners grow the fragrant plant for culinary purposes. Fresh leaves can be used to make refreshing drinks and add an original taste to summer dishes. To enjoy a healthy and aromatic spice even in winter, you should know how to properly grow mint at home.

Varieties for growing on a windowsill

To grow mint as an indoor flower, it is recommended to choose varieties with compact shoots and root systems. Growing spicy herbs at home on a windowsill is possible with the following varieties:
  • Vegetable fun. Perennial bush that can grow in partial shade. The leaves of the plant have a menthol aroma and a refreshing taste. The height of the shoots is 50 cm. The variety is demanding on the composition of the soil; the volume of green mass depends on the amount of nutrients.
  • The Spike Ceremony. A medium sized mint bush with deep green foliage. Needs good lighting, stretches out in the shade and forms few shoots. It has a high menthol content and a pronounced aroma. Mainly used in cooking.
  • Pennyroyal. Suitable for growing at home due to its compact size. The shoots are densely covered with miniature leaves with a purple tint. The drooping stems have a distinct minty aroma. Tender greens are used to make drinks.
You can grow fragrant mint at home from other varieties: Zhemchug, Moskvichka or Pepper Garden.
When purchasing seeds, it is necessary to take into account the agrotechnical requirements of the species.

Ways to grow mint in an apartment

In order to grow fresh mint at home on a windowsill, you need to choose one of the possible propagation methods. A perennial crop can be obtained from seeds, cuttings or using root cuttings from the mother plant. Knowing the features of each method will help even novice gardeners cope with planting.

seeds

A universal way to grow mint at home. Planting material is sold in flower shops or prepared independently. Growing mint from seeds at home produces delicate greens with a menthol aroma. At the same time, the young shoots of the first year are slightly inferior in taste to the adult plant.

Mint planted on a windowsill from seeds produces the first harvest of greenery in 2-2.5 months. A lengthy and labor-intensive method of cultivation is used when it is necessary to obtain a certain variety of plant.

Root layering

A new mint bush is grown at home from the roots of a perennial growing in the garden. The culture has developed superficial root shoots with nodes of dormant buds. In open ground, fragrant grass quickly takes over the territory due to the formation of new bushes from cuttings. To get a new mint bush at home, you need to separate a section with 3-4 buds from the root system at the end of summer.
It is advisable to treat the harvested material with a growth stimulator according to the instructions. The root should be buried 5-7 cm into the soil. The soil in the container should be moist and nutritious. At the bottom of the container there must be a drainage layer or holes through which excess water is drained. After 2 weeks, the first shoots should appear.

Using cuttings

Perennials growing in the garden can be propagated by cuttings. This is the fastest way to get homemade mint greens from a garden plant. The vegetative method of propagation by cuttings is carried out throughout the summer, when there is enough green mass on the mother bush.
Part of the side stem is cut with a sharp knife at an angle of 45°. A few top leaves are left on the mint cuttings, and the bottom ones are carefully peeled off. The shoot is placed in a container of water in partial shade. As soon as the mint produces roots 1-1.5 cm long, the stem is transplanted into prepared soil. For several weeks, the seedling is protected from the scorching rays of the sun penetrating into the house.

Step-by-step instructions for growing mint on a windowsill

Garden culture has simple agrotechnical requirements. It is more difficult to grow fragrant mint on the windowsill at home. It is necessary to choose the optimal place for the plant, provide it with nutritious soil, and properly care for the seedlings.

Landing place

The microclimate of the house for growing mint should be close to the natural growing conditions of the variety. First of all, you need to take care of a well-lit place. Containers with seedlings should be placed on western or eastern windows. Scorching rays can burn young greens, and a lack of light will lead to stretching of shoots and a decrease in essential oils in the greens. In the warm season, it is recommended to plant mint on a balcony or loggia.
The culture is demanding on humidity levels. During the heating season, it is necessary to spray the plantings daily with warm water. During active growth of shoots, the temperature regime for the plant should be maintained at 22-25°C. In winter, when the bush is resting, it is recommended to lower the temperature by a few degrees.

Which container to choose

The root system of mint lies close to the surface of the earth. The development of new shoots occurs in width, so the pot must have a suitable height to depth ratio.

Remember! The plant takes root well in a ceramic pot. It has the property of absorbing excess moisture and letting in the air required by the roots.

Before transplanting mint into a pot, you need to take care of the drainage layer at the bottom of the soil and holes for draining excess water. Plastic containers should not be used for planting. In such bowls, the roots do not receive enough air.

What soil to plant mint in?

You should plant mint at home in light soil with a loose structure. Adding peat and sand to the soil mixture improves air access to the roots. To maintain soil moisture, it is recommended to add hydrogel to the soil.
A mandatory requirement when growing mint is the acidity level of the soil. The optimal indicator is 5.6-6 pH. A low level of alkaline composition leads to a decrease in the concentration of essential oil in the leaves of the plant. Mint is not demanding on soil fertility; the lack of nutrients can be compensated for with complex fertilizers.

Preparation of material and planting mint

Mint seeds are purchased at flower shops. Self-harvesting planting material requires experience and often does not lead to the desired result. The seeds of the aromatic crop are pre-soaked for 1-2 days inside a damp cloth. The procedure is not necessary; in this way, the period of emergence of mint shoots is reduced. Planting is carried out in several stages:
  • The soil in the container is moistened and large lumps are removed.
  • In the bowl, grooves are made in the soil to a depth of 1-2 mm.
  • The seeds are planted in the soil and carefully sprinkled with a layer of soil.
  • The crops are sprayed with settled water and covered with a transparent lid.
Before mint sprouts, you need to monitor the air temperature in the house. Seedlings are grown at 20-25°C.

Seedling care

Sprouts appear on the surface of the earth after 2-3 weeks. The seedlings need diffused light, so the protective cover is removed. The soil is moistened so as to prevent the top layer from drying out. Surface roots dry out quickly and the plant may die.
The temperature for growing seedlings at home is maintained at 18-20°C. Two true leaves appear on seedlings after 22-25 days. At this time, it is recommended to pick the seedlings into individual cups.
Caring for mint seedlings at home involves moistening the soil and air around the plantings. It is advisable to place a container of water or a tray with wet expanded clay next to the bowls at home. The nutritional value of the soil can be replenished with fertilizers.

Attention!. Mineral fertilizing is applied 14 days after diving and repeated a month later.

Main diseases and pests of mint

The pronounced aroma of menthol repels many harmful insects from mint. The mint flea beetle and leaf beetle are dangerous. Small pest larvae can get home along with garden soil. Insects feed on young shoots and roots of mint, weakening the plant. Regular inspection of foliage and ground surfaces helps identify hazards early.
The mint flea beetle is a yellow beetle, 1.5 mm in size. On the affected plant there are round holes that are gnawed by the insect. The dangerous beetle is destroyed by spraying with the drug Aclectic.
A leaf beetle attack is recognized by a cluster of green bugs with a glossy sheen on the stems and leaf axils. Pests draw out the sap, causing the shoots to dry out and die. An effective means of control is to treat the plantings with a Chlorophos solution.
At home on a windowsill, with high humidity and cool air, mint can be susceptible to fungal diseases. The appearance of red or brown spots on the back of the leaves is a sign of rust damage. A whitish coating on the front side of the shoots indicates a mint disease with powdery mildew. At the initial stage of a fungal disease, the leaves need to be treated with fungicides.

Subtleties of mint collection

You can harvest spices grown at home throughout the year. The young leaves have a pleasant aroma and are used in cocktails, desserts or teas. The level of essential oil in them is lower than in older shoots. Early pruning allows the bush to form and promotes the formation of lateral shoots. After the shoots reach technical maturity, from the beginning of budding, mint is collected, prepared, and stored for medicinal use. The stems are cut at a distance of 7-10 cm from the ground. They are tied together in bundles and hung in a dark, ventilated room. Dried mint is stored in canvas bags or glass jars. More nutrients are retained in an airtight container.
Fresh, vitamin-rich greens from the garden are available primarily during the summer months. By planting mint on your windowsill at home, you can provide yourself with a fragrant spice for all seasons.