The mint leaf beetle, also called the green mint leaf beetle, loves to feast on mint. They especially love mint varieties such as longleaf mint, field mint, and water mint. At a fairly high population density, these pests are able to eat entire leaves on vegetation, which in turn provokes a decrease in the mass fraction of essential oil and yield in general. In addition to mint, other representatives of the famous Lamiaceae family sometimes act as food plants for mint leaf beetles.

Meet the pest

The mint leaf beetle is a pest beetle that ranges in size from eight to eleven millimeters. Its oval, smooth body is distinguished by a rather bright color - as a rule, it is blue-greenish.

Overwintering of the larvae, along with the beetles that have completed feeding, takes place in the surface soil layer. The extended release of beetles starts at an air temperature of 14 to 20 degrees in the first half of May, and its completion occurs in July. All bugs immediately after emergence are characterized by immobility and nest in leaf axils. They will begin to show activity in the form of intensive feeding somewhat later, and it will occur mainly in the evening and morning hours.

A month and a half after emergence, the additional feeding of the females is completed, and they begin to lay eggs not only on the luxurious mint inflorescences, but also on young leaves (mainly on their lower sides). The oviposition process begins approximately in mid-June, noticeably intensifying by the second half of July - early August, and its end usually occurs at the end of September. Each oviposition consists mainly of six to sixteen eggs. At the same time, it can contain up to forty-eight eggs at a maximum, and only two at a minimum. As for the total fertility of females, on average it reaches 250 eggs, and the duration of the embryonic development stage takes from six to eleven days.

Early reborn larvae, along with those that have completed their development, are sent for subsequent pupation into the soil, to a depth of two to three centimeters - they will turn into pupae in about one and a half to two weeks. The beetles that appear in August give rise to new generations until October-November, and then in the adult stage they move to winter. Together with them, the larvae that have accumulated a substantial supply of fat and protein deposits, as well as late-reborn larvae that have reached their final instar, overwinter. Within a year, two generations of mint leaf beetles develop.

Most often, these mint pests inhabit areas located in damp, low areas, well-warmed by the sun and protected from the wind.

How to fight

Wild mint species should be promptly eliminated from the site. You should also observe spatial isolation of mint plantings of different years.

Vegetation against mint leaf beetles can be sprayed with a concentrated decoction of celandine: for ten liters of celandine water you will need 200 g. Dried leaves should be taken. The raw materials filled with water should be left for 24 hours, and then a little soap should be added.

In the breeding areas of mint leaf beetles, the use of insecticides is allowed. The most commonly used are Fosbecid or Actellik. And forty days before the start of harvesting, such treatments are stopped.

Powdery mildew is a rapidly spreading fungal plant disease. Initially, a white powdery coating appears on the leaves, similar to flour or powder. It can be easily wiped off with your finger and even mistaken for ordinary dust. But it was not there! Before you know it, this infection will appear again, and in greater numbers, capturing ever new areas of habitat. Not only the leaves become white, but also the stems and flower stalks. Gradually, old leaves turn yellow and lose turgor. New ones grow ugly and twisted. If measures are not taken to cure powdery mildew, the plant will die.

This is what powdery mildew deposits look like when zoomed in:
Ulcers at the site of mycelium formation

Powdery mildew disease: where does it come from?

• The weather outside is cool (15.5-26.5°C), damp (humidity 60-80%), cloudy (for example, during the rainy season). Weather conditions have a particularly great influence on outdoor and balcony plants; when grown in rooms they are not so noticeable;
• there is a large amount of nitrogen in the soil;
• plantings are thickened;
• The watering schedule is not followed. For example, a plant is often watered without waiting for the top layer of soil to dry. Or, on the contrary, they regularly dry out the earthen ball and then fill it with water. All this leads to impaired immunity and, as a consequence, the appearance of powdery mildew.

In addition to these external conditions, already “awakened” spores can end up on flowers:

• by air (from infected trees or plants);
• through irrigation water (if spores got there);
• through your hands (if you touched an infected plant and then touched a healthy one).

Powdery mildew can completely destroy a plant in a short time

Proper agricultural technology is an important condition in the fight against powdery mildew

The fight against powdery mildew is an integrated approach. First, you need to put in order the agricultural technology for growing the affected plant. This means:

• watering only after the top layer of soil has dried;
• while fighting powdery mildew, completely stop spraying;
• if possible, move the affected specimen to a brighter, sunny place until the powdery mildew is cured;
• thin out thickened plantings, tear off old leaves that touch the ground;
• for the period of remission - less nitrogen fertilizers, more phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (in case of illness - no fertilizers at all).

All errors in care must be corrected, otherwise powdery mildew will appear regularly. Now let's talk about direct treatment.

How to fight powdery mildew: therapeutic spraying and watering

To get rid of powdery mildew, do the following:

1. Cut off the affected (yellow, lacking turgor) leaves and all flower stalks. If powdery mildew appears on roses, petunias, chrysanthemums and similar bushy plants, it is advisable to carry out radical pruning. The more damaged branches are destroyed, the greater the chance of recovery;
2. replace the top layer of soil in a container, pot or under a plant in a flower bed - entire colonies of mushroom mycelium are hiding there;
3. carry out therapeutic spraying and watering of the plant with one of the medicinal preparations. When spraying, you should strive to wet all the leaves and shoots abundantly. The plant should pour like after a spring shower. There is a more effective way: pour the medicinal solution into a basin and dip the bush into it. The soil is also generously moistened with the solution by spraying with a spray bottle or watering. The walls of pots and pallets are also processed.

Powdery mildew: folk remedies

Let’s make a reservation right away: folk remedies for powdery mildew are effective as a preventive measure or in the initial stages of the spread of the disease. If the destructive process started a long time ago, more than 5-7 days ago, it is already useless to fight in this way. It may be possible to stop the development of the disease, but not completely eliminate it.

The most famous and effective folk remedies for powdery mildew are prepared as follows:

1. From soda ash and soap

25 g of soda ash is dissolved in 5 liters of hot water, add 5 g of liquid soap. Spray the plants and top layer of soil with a cooled solution 2-3 times at weekly intervals.

A protective preparation against powdery mildew is prepared from soda ash and liquid soap (preferably laundry soap)

2. Baking soda and soap

Dissolve 1 tbsp in 4 liters of water. l. baking soda and 1/2 tsp. liquid soap. Spraying is performed 2-3 times with an interval of 6-7 days.

3. Potassium permanganate solution

2.5 g of potassium permanganate is dissolved in 10 liters of water and used 2-3 times with an interval of 5 days.

4. Whey solution

The serum is diluted with water 1:10. The resulting solution forms a film on the leaves and stems, which makes it difficult for the mycelium to breathe. At the same time, the plant itself receives additional nutrition with useful substances and becomes healthier, which affects the improvement of its appearance. Treatment with whey solution is carried out in dry weather, at least 3 times, with an interval of 3 days.

5. Horsetail decoction

100 g of horsetail (fresh) is poured into 1 liter of water and left for 24 hours. Place on fire and boil for 1-2 hours. Filter, cool, dilute with water in a concentration of 1:5 and spray the bushes. The concentrate can be stored in a cool, dark place for no more than a week. Spraying with horsetail can be carried out regularly to prevent powdery mildew in the spring and summer. In the fight against an existing disease (in the initial stage), 3-4 times spraying every 5 days is effective.

6. Copper-soap solution

This remedy for powdery mildew is highly effective due to the inclusion of a well-known fungicidal drug - copper sulfate. 5 g of copper sulfate are diluted in a glass (250 ml) of hot water. Separately, dissolve 50 g of soap in 5 liters of warm water. After this, carefully pour the solution with vitriol into the soap solution in a thin stream and with constant stirring. The resulting emulsion is sprayed on plants 2-3 times with an interval of 6-7 days.

7. Mustard solution

Mix 1-2 tbsp into 10 liters of hot water. dry mustard. The cooled solution is good for both spraying and watering.

8. Ash + soap

Stir 1 kg of ash in 10 liters of heated (30-40°C) water. The solution is infused, stirring regularly, for about 3-7 days. Then pour the liquid component (without the ash suspension) into a clean bucket, add a little liquid soap, pour it into a sprayer and carry out the treatment. Spray the plants every day or every other day 3 times. Add 10 liters of water to a bucket with ash particles that have sunk to the bottom, stir and use it for irrigation.

9. Infusion of rotted manure (better than cow manure)

Fill the rotted manure with water in a ratio of 1:3 and leave for 3 days. Then dilute the concentrate twice with water and spray the bushes.

10. Garlic infusion

25 g of garlic (chopped) are poured into 1 liter of water, kept for 1 day, filtered and sprayed on the collection.

Powdery mildew: treatment with chemicals

If powdery mildew appears on your flowers, combating it is most effective with the help of modern fungicidal agents. They have a detrimental effect on the fungus, stop harmful processes in plant cells, protect and treat it. Spraying is carried out 1-4 times with an interval of 7-10 days (depending on the chosen drug).

Chemicals for powdery mildew act quickly and effectively

The most effective drugs for powdery mildew:

• Fundazol;
• Topaz;
• Acrobat MC;
• Previkur;
• Speed;
• Vitaros;
• Amistar extra.

A well-known fungicidal drug is phytosporin, the active ingredient of which is a concentrate of the bacteria Bacillus subtilis in a powder of chalk and humates. Despite the fact that phytosporin is considered a medicinal agent, it is practically useless against existing powdery mildew. However, as a preventive measure, it will work flawlessly.

Mint is an essential oil crop; it is grown mainly to obtain essential and partly fatty oil. In addition to mint, the following are used for the same purposes: coriander, cumin, fennel, clary sage, basil, pink geranium, essential oil rose, common lavender and iris. Mint is a perennial plant from the Lamiaceae family. To obtain essential oil, ordinary peppermint is mainly grown, and high-menthol mint is cultivated as a medicinal plant. Growing mint It is very popular among gardeners and gardeners and it is widely used in a variety of recipes.

growing mint

Regular peppermint contains essential oil only in the foliage (in dry leaves - up to 3%) and inflorescences, and much less in the stem. It is used in the food, perfumery and cosmetics, alcoholic beverage and tobacco industries and in medicine. Dry leaves are used as a spice in canning cucumbers and other vegetables, in making fruit tea, and are also used in medicine.

Mint propagation

Mint is propagated mainly by rhizomes, and, in addition, also by lashes, green sprouted layering and cuttings. Sometimes it produces very small seeds, but they have low germination rates. Propagation of mint by seeds leads to significant deviation from the parent plants. At experimental breeding stations, seeds are used to develop new varieties of mint.

Peppermint has been known for about 300 years. In our country, it appeared in the last quarter of the 19th century and was grown in small areas.

Soil and planting mint

Mint is a plant that loves moisture and therefore low-lying areas with close soil water should be allocated for it. The best for growing mint are sandy loam and loamy chernozems, as well as alluvial soils of riverine lowlands. It also grows well on cultivated peat fields. Alkaline, sandy and heavy clayey, easily floating soils are unsuitable for it.

The best predecessor of mint is winter crops, which were sown in fertilized open fallow or after perennial grasses. Good harvests of mint are obtained after (well fertilized) hemp, tobacco, and potatoes. If the predecessor was not fertilized, 30-40 7 kg/ha of manure in combination with mineral fertilizers should be applied to the mint. Based on this calculation: on chernozems - 60-70 kg of nitrogen, 45-50 kg of phosphorus and 45 kg/ha of potassium, on gray forest soils - 80-85 kg of nitrogen, 50-55 kg of phosphorus and 70-75 kg/ha ha potassium. On podzol sandy loam soils, after grain harvesting, lupine is sown, which is planted when the plowed land rises.

Autumn plowing is carried out in August and September: on chernozems - to a depth of -27 cm, on podzolic soils - at least 20 cm.

Mint is planted with rhizomes in the first days of field work, or seedlings within 10 days from the moment it grows. When using a special seeder, the rhizomes are cut into pieces of 7-10 cm. When planting manually, parts of the rhizome are placed in the furrows in continuous strips.

In lowlands that dry out late, mint is planted as seedlings. Row spacing is 60 cm.

Mint care

6-10 days after planting, the plantation is checked and new plants are planted in liquefied areas.

During the growing season, the soil is loosened 4-5 times between the rows, while weeding. In addition to weeds, other types of mint are pulled out, the admixture of which in the raw material spoils the essential mint oil. A significant increase in mint yield is facilitated by fertilizing with local and mineral fertilizers.

During the first feeding, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are added - 25-30 kg / ha, and during the second - only nitrogen and phosphorus in the same amount.

Harvesting

Mint begins to be collected in dry weather, when 50% of the plants bloom. During harvesting, special mowers, or haymowers, are used, adapted for low cutting. After harvesting, the transitional areas of mint are plowed to a depth of 13-15 cm.

Mint diseases and pests

The most common mint diseases are rust and grouse. Control measures: plowing the soil, planting mint with rhizomes cleared of ground parts to a depth of 7-8 cm, spraying one percent Bordeaux mixture on the affected plants.

Among the pests, mint is damaged by the spider mite. When it appears, spray the plants with tobacco decoction or a 3% solution of liquid soap, repeating the treatment after 4-6 days until the pest is destroyed. Aphids, fleas, shield moths and meadow moth caterpillars are also dangerous to mint.

Growing greens on a windowsill or home garden is becoming very popular today. For example, read how to grow parsley

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6.2 Mint pests and measures to combat them

Green shieldweed– Cassida viridis.

The green scutellum is distributed everywhere, but is most harmful in the Central Black Earth, North Caucasus, and Volga regions. It mainly damages peppermint, as well as sage, lemon balm and wild plants.

The beetle is 5...7 mm long, matte green, with wide elytra and pronotum covering the entire body like a shield. The larva is up to 8 mm long, dark green, with needle-shaped outgrowths on the sides (Fig. 27).

Green beetles overwinter on mint plantations under leaves, lumps of soil and in other shelters. During the period of leaf growth, beetles emerge from their wintering places and colonize the plants. They need additional nutrition, and at this time they skeletonize their leaves. After mating, females lay eggs on the underside of leaves.

The hatched larvae skeletonize the leaves on one side. Older larvae gnaw through them and often completely destroy the leaves, leaving only the petioles. The larvae feed for about two weeks and then pupate. The pupa develops in 7…12 days. The new generation of beetles begin feeding and after mating lay eggs. Depending on environmental conditions, two or three generations develop.

The first generation is the most harmful.

Protective measures. When the number of beetles and larvae is high, plantations are treated with decis, EC (0.2 l/ha). The last treatment is carried out 25 days before harvesting.

Mint leaf beetle– Chrysomela mentastr. Systematic position: order of beetles, or Coleoptera, family of leaf beetles (Chrysomelidae).

Distributed in the Central Black Earth, Volga, North Caucasus, and in the south of the Central and West Siberian regions.

Beetle 7…11 mm long, metallic green, oblong-oval body; elytra with rows of small punctures. The larva is 12…14 mm long, black-brown, with three pairs of legs (Fig. 20).

The last instar larvae overwinter in the soil. In the spring they pupate, and the hatched beetles immediately begin additional feeding, eating leaves from the edges.

Females lay eggs in small groups of seven-nine pieces on the underside of the leaves. One female can lay up to 200 eggs. Embryonic development lasts 6...13 days.

First, the larvae skeletonize the leaves, and then gnaw holes in them and eat away from the edges. The larva is very sensitive and at the slightest mechanical impact on it, it curls up and falls to the soil surface. When the larvae have finished feeding, they go into the soil and remain there to overwinter. Some of the larvae pupate, and beetles hatch from them. The mint leaf beetle most often inhabits plantations located in low, humid places, protected from the wind and well warmed by the sun. In most of its range it has one generation.

Protective measures. When the mint leaf beetle population is high, plantations are treated with actellik, EC (0.6 l/ha). Treatments are stopped 40 days before harvesting.

Fleamint–LongitarsuslicopiFoudr. Systematic position: order of beetles, or Coleoptera, family of leaf beetles (Chrysomelidae).

Beetle 1.3...1.8 mm long, light brown; elytra with stitches arranged in distinct rows.

Mint flea beetles overwinter at the surface of the soil in plant debris, on the edges of forests, and in forest belts. In the spring, when warm weather sets in, the beetles migrate to plantations and feed on the growing young leaves of food plants. They are especially dangerous for young plants in hot, dry weather.

Fleas gnaw out the pulp in young leaves from the upper side in the form of rounded or irregularly shaped depressions with an intact lower epidermis; later, as the leaf grows, through holes with torn edges form in these places. With severe damage, plants lag behind in growth and development. Having finished additional feeding, females lay eggs in the soil.

The larvae, hatched after 10...12 days, feed on small roots of mint and other plants without causing any noticeable harm to them. Pupation occurs in the soil. The hatched young beetles feed on leaves for a short time, then go to wintering areas. Gives one generation per year.

Measures to protect against the mint flea beetle. If the mint flea beetle population is high, the plantations are treated during the period of leaf regrowth with actellicom, EC (0.6 l/ha).

Tlyamyatnaya– Aphis affinis Guerc. Systematic position: order Homoptera, family of aphids (Aphididae).

Wingless parthenogenetic female mint aphid up to 2 mm long, dark green, sap tubes 1.7...2.2 times longer than the tail.

As a result of aphid feeding, the leaves are deformed, curled, young shoots are inhibited, and plants are stunted. This leads to the loss of half the mass of leaves and inflorescences - the main raw materials for the production of essential oil. As mid-summer and autumn approach, aphid numbers decrease. In autumn, females and males appear in aphid colonies. After mating, the female lays several eggs. Adults and larvae of mint aphids die with the onset of cold weather. It produces many generations during the growing season.

Protective measures. Spatial separation of new peppermint plantations from old ones. Carrying out peeling and deep autumn plowing, which contributes to a sharp reduction in the wintering stock of aphids. Spraying plantations in the spring when colonies of mint aphids appear on the leaves with Actellik, EC (0.6 l/ha). Treatments are stopped 40 days before harvesting.

6.3 Mint diseases and measures to combat them

Mint curliness. Curly mint is a widespread and very harmful disease in the main areas where this crop is cultivated. Affected plants have low, thin, twisted stems and stunted growth. In some cases, mosaic patterns appear on the leaves, and in others - severe crushing and curling of the leaves due to uneven growth of veins and tissues. Sometimes a strong brightening of the veins appears. With tissue aging, mosaic gradually disappears.

Pathogen. In plants with signs of curling, using an electron microscope, filamentous virions were identified, which, based on morphological characteristics, can be classified into the group Potyvirus, and varieties with mosaic have rod-shaped virions characteristic of the group Tobamovirus.

Control measures. Creation of new plantings with healthy planting material.

Mint rust. Rust is the most common and harmful disease of mint, causing a severe reduction in the quantity and quality of the harvest.

In spring, small, yellow-brown warts develop on growing stems and, less often, on petioles and veins of leaves, which are the spermogonial stage of the disease. Soon after this, cup-shaped aecidia of a red-orange color form on the warts, in elongated groups.

With the strong development of these stages, curvature and swelling of the affected tissues are observed, and most of the affected shoots die. Later, small yellow or brown spots appear on the upper side of the leaves, and small piles of brown summer uredosoruses appear on the underside.

At the end of the growing season, dark-colored winter teleithosoruses form scatteredly or in small groups in the same places. With severe damage, yellowing and falling leaves are observed (Fig. 6).

Pathogen. Mushroom Pucciniamenthae Pers. forms single-celled, light brown, setae-covered uredospores. Teleitospores are ellipsoidal, two-celled, dark brown, thin-walled. At the top they have a wide, colorless wart. The pathogen has 16 races, depending on their reaction to individual varieties of the species Menthapiperita.

Conditions for the development of the disease. The germination of telyto-iuredospores occurs in the presence of droplet-liquid moisture, so the massive development of the disease occurs after prolonged rainfall and when water is retained on the leaves. The optimal temperature for uredospore germination is about 18º C. Teleitospores are formed after a prolonged drop in temperature below 10 ° C.

Control measures. Creating new mint plantings in a well-ventilated area using healthy planting material. When rust appears in the early phases of plant development, fungicide treatments are carried out: sumi 8 12.5 SP 0.05%, impact 12.5 SC 0.1%, folicurplus375 EC 500 ml/gai etc. If the disease develops strongly in later phases, it is recommended premature cutting of crops.

The mint varieties Tundzha, Zephyr, Sofia, Mechta and others are resistant to rust.

Septoria of mint. First, on the lowest, and later on the leaves of the middle and upper tiers of plants, small, almost round, ocher-brown spots are formed, the center of which gradually becomes lighter. Pinpoint black pycnidia form in the center of the spots. Affected leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Pathogen. The fungus Septoria menthe forms flattened pycnidia with holes. The spores are filamentous, often curved, unicellular, hyaline.

Development cycle. The pathogen persists in affected plant debris. Mass infection of plants is carried out with the help of conidia spread by raindrops.

Conditions for the development of the disease. Warm and prolonged wet weather contributes to the strong development of the disease.

Control measures. Collection and destruction of fallen leaves followed by proper soil cultivation.

Verticillium wilt of mint. Affected plants are severely depressed and unevenly developed. The leaf blades are asymmetrical, corrugated, with yellowish growing spots on the tips. With severe damage, the leaves turn yellow sequentially from the bottom to the top of the plant, turn brown and dry out, while only the youngest leaves on the tops of the shoots remain.

Lignified tissues of the stem and roots of diseased plants turn brown, and the core and vascular bundles become discolored. Ulcers, rot, and sometimes a fungal coating appear on the stems (ill. 8).

Pathogen. The fungus Verticillium alboatrum develops characteristic whorled-branched conidiophores with single-celled, very small, colorless conidia.

Development cycle. The fungus is a typical soil-dwelling species that develops saprotrophically. It infects plants through root hairs or penetrates plants in places where lateral roots branch.

Conditions for the development of the disease. Strong development of the disease is observed when plants are grown on sandy soils with an alkaline or neutral reaction of the soil solution. Mechanical damage caused by insects or during soil cultivation contributes to the strong development of the disease.

Control measures. When creating new plantings, it is necessary to use healthy planting material. Compliance with crop rotation with the inclusion of cereal species that are not affected by the pathogen.

Rhizoctoniosis, or black spot of mint. The aboveground part of the plants becomes necrotic and dies. The roots and root collar are rusty-brown and gradually rot. In wet weather, the basal part of the plants is covered with a light coating of fungus (Fig. 5).

Pathogen. Mushroom Rhizoctoniasolani Kuhn. forms yellow-brown or brown mycelium, consisting of long cells, often branched at right angles. Sclerotia are relatively small, consisting of T-shaped or cruciform cells that are not separated from the hyphae.

Development cycle. The causative agent of the disease persists in the soil, including virgin soil. The pathogen infects many hosts, which guarantees its persistence and accumulation of infection in the soil.

Conditions for the development of the disease. Intensive development of the disease is observed during prolonged rainy and cool weather.

Control measures. Creation of new crops on well-leveled and drained soils. When the disease develops strongly, the soil is watered with a solution of broad-spectrum fungicides: foundationazole 5 °SP 0.2%, topsin M 70 NP 0.2% - until the disease is limited.

Control questions

1. Using mint.

2. Name the diseases of mint.

3. Name the pests of mint.

4. What control measures exist against pests and diseases of mint?

7 Sea buckthorn

7.1 Biomorphological features

Sea buckthorn(Siberian pineapple) – Hippophaerhamnoides L. Sucker family – Elaeagnaceae. Other names of the plant: Siberian pineapple, waxweed, jida.

Sea buckthorn (Siberian pineapple) is a shrub or small tree 1.5...2.0 m high. The fruits of sea buckthorn are harvested for medicinal purposes (Figure 12).

Figure 12 – Sea buckthorn plant (on the left – female with fruits, on the right – male)

Sea buckthorn fruits contain a significant amount of pigments and carotene, which determine the intense orange color of the berries. In addition, vitamins E (tocopherol), B1, B2, B6 and P were found in the fruits of the plant, as well as essential acids, tannins, coumarins, flavonoids, essential oils, and microelements.

Sea buckthorn oil contains tocopherols, carotenoids, vitamins K, B1, B2, B6, sterols, stigmasterols, β-sitosterol, fatty acids (oleic, linoleic, linolenic), sugars, organic acids and phytoncides. Sea buckthorn oil accelerates the healing process of wounds , and the biologically most active part of the oil is sterols. The direct effect of sea buckthorn oil on the wound stimulates recovery processes.

The distinct regenerative properties of sea buckthorn oil are used in the treatment of eye corneas. Sea buckthorn oil has antibacterial properties; the drug inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and hemolytic streptococcus.

Sea buckthorn oil has a positive effect on lipid metabolism in the liver, the reaction of lipid peroxidation in membranes, and thanks to tocopherols it protects biological membranes from the damaging effects of chemical agents.

7.2 Sea buckthorn pests and measures to combat them

Sea buckthorn fly– Rhagoletis batava Hering. Systematic position: order Diptera, family Piedfly (Tephritidae).

The fly is 4...5 mm long, black body, yellow head, wings with brown transverse bands. The larva is up to seven mm long, white.

Puparia overwinter in the soil at a depth of up to five cm under damaged sea buckthorn bushes. The emergence of flies begins in mid-June and continues for more than 1 month. After additional feeding, females lay one (less often two) eggs under the skin of unripe berries. The fertility of a female is 95...150 eggs, and of individual individuals - more than 200 eggs. Embryonic development lasts about eight days. The hatched larvae feed on the pulp of the fruit. During its development, which is about one month, the larva damages up to five berries, which first darken and then dry out. Having finished feeding, the larvae leave the fruits and go into the soil to pupate. One generation develops during the year.

Measures to protect against sea buckthorn flies. Loosening the soil between rows. Spatial isolation of new plantings from old ones. If there are 0.5...2.0% of fruits colonized by larvae and eggs, a single treatment of sea buckthorn plantations is carried out with actellik, EC (0.6...0.8 l/ha). Treatments are stopped 30 days before harvesting the berries.

7.3 Sea buckthorn diseases and measures to combat them

Verticillium wilt. The most dangerous disease of sea buckthorn. As a result of the disease, the conducting system of sea buckthorn becomes clogged, causing the plant to die. In August, the leaves of affected plants on all branches or on individual branches turn yellow and fall off. The fruits wrinkle, swellings appear on the bark, which later crack. Plant death occurs very quickly, almost next year.

Control measures. Healthy planting material. Affected plants are dug up and sea buckthorn is not planted in their place for several years.

Endomycosis. This disease is of fungal origin and is focal in nature. The onset of the disease occurs in early August. Fruits affected by this disease become flabby, soft, their shell becomes discolored and filled with grayish mucus, which does not have the characteristic odor of sea buckthorn. After two weeks, the shell of diseased berries easily ruptures and its contents leak onto the fruit, infecting them. Dew and rain contribute to the spread of this disease. Infections can be carried by some insects. The pathogen overwinters on the bark or inner skin of the burst fruit, which are the source of infection of the fruits of the new harvest.

Protection measures. Spray with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or a 0.4% solution of copper oxychloride. The first treatment should be carried out immediately after the end of flowering of females, and the second in mid-July.

Blackleg. The causative agents are soil fungi. Plants become thinner at the point where the seedling's sea buckthorn knee comes into contact with the soil, causing the plant to fall and die.

To prevent this disease, sea buckthorn seedlings must be grown on a substrate of fresh turf soil mixed with washed river sand. In order to prevent the disease, it is necessary to water the seedlings with a solution of potassium permanganate once every four to five days.

Sea buckthorn thrives on soils that are light in mechanical composition and contain a sufficient amount of organic matter. Therefore, when planting plants, add peat and sand (1:1) to the hole. Dried shoots and root shoots must be systematically cut out. The soil should be loosened by 5...10 cm. The bushes should be watered regularly. Dig up severely affected plants. Wounds after cutting branches must be disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate or 3% iron sulfate and covered with garden varnish. Sea buckthorn should not be planted in an area that was occupied by strawberries, as they have the same type of diseases. In the fall, old leaves are removed, tree trunks are dug up, the trunks are cleaned, and they are washed with an ash solution. At the end of October - beginning of November, tree trunks are whitewashed.

Control questions

1. Use of sea buckthorn.

2. Name the diseases of sea buckthorn.

3. Name the pests of sea buckthorn.

4. What control measures exist against pests and diseases of sea buckthorn?

8 Hops

8.1 Morphobiological features

Hop(lat.Húmulus) is a genus of flowering plants in the hemp family. The genus contains two species: common or climbing hop (Humuluslupulus) L.; Japanese or climbing hop (Humulus japonicus) SieboldetZucc.

Herbaceous dioecious plants, climbing upward clockwise, with opposite palmate leaves, with interpetiolate stipules (Figure 13).

Figure 13 – Common hop plantations

Male inflorescences on second-order branches in the form of a complex panicle consisting of dichasias turning into curls. A male flower with a five-leaved perianth and five stamens with straight filaments. Female flowers in cone-shaped complex inflorescences. The scales of the cones, arranged in pairs, represent stipules of undeveloped leaves, in the axil of which there are double curls of two to four or six flowers, without flowers of the first order. The bracts located near the flowers grow during the fruits and bear glands containing lupulin. Female flowers consist of a pistil, surrounded at the base by a filmy, entire-edged cup-shaped perianth.

Figure 14 – Common hop inflorescence (on the left – female, on the right – male)

The fruit is a nut with a spirally coiled embryo. It blooms in July–August, bears fruit in August–September (Figure 14).

Hops are mainly used in medicine and the food industry. Hop cones are a raw material for brewing. The stems are suitable for making low grades of paper, as well as coarse yarn suitable for burlap and rope.

8.2 Pests of common hops and measures to combat them

Hop aphid–Phrodon humuli Sehr. order of Homoptera– Homoptera, family of aphids Aphididae.

Hop aphids are one of the most dangerous hop pests. It is a dioecious, or migratory, species. At first, the hop aphid feeds on the sap of plants on which the eggs overwinter and its first generations develop. These are plants from the genus Prunus (plum, apricot, sloe, cherry plum). The intermediate “breadwinner” is hops, on which aphids feed and reproduce in the summer.

During the growing season, hop aphids develop a series of generational cycles on both plants, which differ from each other in physiological and morphological characteristics.

Hop aphid eggs overwinter on one- to two-year-old shoots, as well as on the basal shoots of plums, cherry plums, sloe, near the buds, in the folds of the bark, etc.

Freshly laid eggs of aphids are green, but over time they become black with a shiny surface, ellipsoidal in shape. Aphids lay one or two eggs, or several at a time, behind and around the buds. During winter, about 25...35% of laid eggs die from sudden temperature fluctuations and other unfavorable conditions. A significant number of them are pecked by tits.

In spring, at a temperature of 8...10 °C, dark green aphid larvae hatch from eggs that have overwintered. The emergence of larvae generally coincides with the period of formation of the green cone. The larvae first feed on the buds and then, when the leaves open, on the underside of the plum leaves. After 13...15 days, depending on the weather, after four molts they turn into adult viviparous females, which are called founders, since these larvae with their descendants form the first settlements of aphids.

The founders are about 2.5 mm long, wingless, ovoid in shape. Aphids emerging from eggs, like their descendants - a number of further generations, will develop on plums and hops until autumn - all exclusively females that reproduce without fertilization, parthenogenetically and, in addition, are viviparous (i.e. they do not lay eggs, but give birth larvae).

The founders give birth to about 100 larvae during two or three weeks of their lives. They suck the juice from the leaves of fruit trees and after 12...14 days they again turn into adults, who are now ordinary wingless parthenogenetic females; those, in turn, begin to reproduce in the same way.

Wingless parthenogenetic females (2.4 mm long) are somewhat thinner than the founders, have long legs and antennae. On the frontal tubercles and the first segments of the antennae there are two teeth protruding forward - a characteristic feature of this genus of aphids.

During April and May, aphids on fruit trees develop two to four generations. Due to the sucking of juices, the leaves of plum, thorn, cherry plum or apricot curl down, the shoots become bent and stop growing. A certain part of the aphid larvae of the penultimate generation remains on the plums, and in the last generation almost all the larvae develop into nymphs that have the rudiments of wings. After the last moult, the nymphs develop into winged females, which are also parthenogenetic and viviparous. These forms are called dispersers. They are dark green in color, 1.9 mm long. The eyes are brown-red, the antennae and legs are black.

Spreaders appear on hops if the spring is warm and friendly, in the second or third ten days of May. However, more often the migration of aphids from trees to hops begins in early June, although some winged individuals migrate even in July. The mass flight lasts two to three weeks and ends in the second ten days of June. Aphids fly a distance of 1.0...1.5 km, and further with the wind.

The colonizers that have flown to the hops colonize the young parts of the plant: the upper leaves and the tips of the shoots. Here, aphids often hide in the folds of leaves and may not be noticed. After feeding on hop juices, the settlers hatch 20…30 larvae. After two weeks, these larvae develop into ordinary wingless parthenogenetic viviparous females (summer form), differing from the similar form on plums only in their smaller size and lighter color.

Summer parthenogenetic females hatch about 100 larvae in 20...28 days. By autumn, six to eight generations of aphids develop on the hops.

Aphids settle on the underside of hop leaves. On old leaves they are contained on the plate along the veins, on young leaves - in the wrinkles of the leaves, and on cones - between the scales. During mass reproduction, aphids sometimes abundantly cover leaves, young stems and cones.

Aphids have piercing-sucking mouthparts and cause enormous damage to hops by sucking out juices. As a result, the tissues are deformed under the influence of enzymes from the pest’s saliva, metabolism is disrupted, the leaves turn yellow and dry out, the flowers die, the cones turn brown and lose their quality.

In addition, hops are harmed by aphid excrement, which in the form of a liquid, the so-called honeydew, falls on the surface of the leaves of the lower tiers, on the stems, on the cones and covers them with a shiny film. In humid weather, a sooty fungus, called leaf black, develops on these sticky secretions. It covers leaves, stems, and cones with a continuous film, slowing down assimilation and respiration. Black leaves overheat in the sun, turn yellow, dry out and fall off. Cones covered with honeydew become sticky and then turn black and lose their value. When aphids multiply massively, the hop yield is reduced by 50% or more or may die completely. The temperature favorable for the development of aphids is 17...20 °C, with high (more than 60%) air humidity.

At the end of August or beginning of September, when conditions for the further development of aphids on hops become less favorable, winged viviparous, parthenogenetic migratory females reappear among the autumn generation, which in appearance are very similar to dispersers. They fly to the primary food plants - fruit trees and hatch 7...15 larvae, which feed on the plastic substances of plums, cherry plums, etc., and after the fourth molt they turn into egg-laying females.

Female egg-bearers are wingless, 1.5...2.0 mm long, elongated-ovoid in shape, yellowish-green in color, the tibiae of the hind legs are thickened and dark-colored. One to one and a half weeks after the egg-laying eggs are born, males appear on the hops.

Winged males are very similar in appearance to females, but are smaller and more rounded. The males fly to plum, cherry plum, and apricot trees and mate with egg-laying eggs, after which they lay six to twelve eggs, which overwinter.

spider mite–Tetranycuhs urticae Koch. Spider mite family– Tetranychidae, order of mites– Acariformes.

Spider mites are one of the most dangerous pests of hops. The body of the mite has clear, long setae, which are arranged in several transverse rows. The mouthparts are piercing-sucking type. The egg-shaped body has four pairs of legs.

The female is 0.45...0.50 mm in size, oval in shape, brick-red in winter, yellowish-greenish in summer, with dark spots on the sides. Body covered with sparse hairs arranged in rows.

Male size 0.25...0.40 mm, greenish, ovoid, body pointed towards the anus. The larva is greenish-yellowish, six-legged, with barely noticeable bristles. Nymphs are quadrupedal and differ from the adult stage in body size and brightness of pigmentation.

Spider mites are a widespread polyphagous pest. Develops on more than 200 species of cultivated and weed plants. Most often found on legumes, pumpkins, cottonseeds, hops, etc. Yield losses can exceed 70%.

Among wild plants, the mite settles on nettle, catnip, midge, godwit, thistle, birch, etc. On plants, the spider mite inhabits the underside of the leaf, entwining accumulations with a thin web, under which it feeds and reproduces.

The dangers of spider mites are that:

– due to loss of nutrients, plants are greatly weakened;

– by sucking the juice from the leaves, mites tear the epidermis, resulting in increased evaporation of moisture;

– while feeding, mites secrete saliva into the leaf tissue, which contains enzymes that disrupt the physiological functions in hop leaves and cause cell death;

– due to damage, small yellow spots appear on the leaves, which merge over time, forming large yellow and then brown spots. The leaves curl and dry out. Damaged shoots turn yellow and stop growing. The scales on damaged cones dry out and turn brown. The cones are disheveled, lightweight, and often fall off.

During years of mass reproduction of the pest, eighty days after the plantation is colonized by spider mites, the hops may die completely.

Fertilized females overwinter in colonies in the cavities of weed stems, in the wrinkles of tree bark, in the cracks of pillars, and between lumps of topsoil.

In the spring, when the temperature warms up to 12...14 °C, the females leave their wintering grounds and settle on weeds (nettle, midge, sow thistle, etc.). Females slowly lose their winter coloration and acquire summer coloration. Three to four days after the start of feeding, at a temperature of 18...20 °C, they already lay eggs (spherical and transparent) 0.10...0.14 mm long, placing them on the webs on the underside of the leaves. The eggs, depending on the temperature, develop from three to twelve days; before the larvae emerge, they acquire a dull color. On weeds, the mite produces three to four generations before switching to hops.

The larvae emerging from the egg, like adult mites, break through the leaf shell with their jaws and feed on the juices and chlorophyll of the parenchyma (pulp) of the leaf. It takes 2.5...3.0 weeks for the larvae to develop into adult ticks. During the dry summer, spider mites can produce nine or more generations. Females lay from 100 to 200 eggs during their life (28...30 days).

Considering that sucking pests develop in nine or more generations during the hop growing season, there is a need for systematic alternation of drugs to prevent resistance. During the period of growth and development of hops, four to five sprayings with insectoacaricides have to be carried out against hop aphids and spider mites. The effectiveness of the drugs is important. The annual intensive use of chemicals on hops leads to an acceleration of the selection of resistant races, forces us to increase the consumption rates of the drugs and periodically change them.

An environmentally friendly system for protecting hops from sucking pests. When protecting hops from sucking pests, agrotechnical and precautionary measures are of great importance. Within a radius of 1.0...1.5 km, wild and feral hops, thorn bushes, cherry plums and wild plums are removed and destroyed. In the gardens of collective farms and on personal plots, the shoots of cultivated plums are cut down.