Plant dieffenbachia (lat. Dieffenbachia) belongs to the genus of evergreen plants of the Araceae family, growing in the tropical zone of the American continent. The Dieffenbachia flower was named by Heinrich Wilhelm Schott, an Austrian botanist, in honor of the head gardener of the botanical garden at Schönbrunn Palace in Vienna, Joseph Dieffenbach. There are about 40 species of Dieffenbachia in nature. Indoor Dieffenbachia is characterized by rapid growth - some species can reach a height of two or more meters in five years.

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Planting and caring for Dieffenbachia

• Bloom: decorative foliage plant.
• Lighting: bright diffused light for variegated forms, light partial shade for a species with green leaves.
• Temperature: in summer – 20-30 ˚C, in winter – not lower than 15 ˚C.
• Watering: abundant in summer, moderate in winter.
• Air humidity: increased – 65%. Regular spraying of leaves is recommended.
• Top dressing: once every three weeks during the period of active growth with lime-free mineral solutions in a concentration twice as weak as the recommended one.
• Rest period: from September to March.
• Transfer: from February to May, when the pot becomes too small for the plant.
• Reproduction: apical and stem cuttings, air layering and, in rare cases, seeds.
• Pests: aphids, thrips, scale insects, spider mites, mealybugs.
• Diseases: bacteriosis, root rot, anthracnose, leaf spot, fusarium, leaf bronzing and mosaic viruses.
• Properties: The sap of the plant is very poisonous and can cause burns.

Read more about growing Dieffenbachia below.

Dieffenbachia flower - features

A common feature of all Dieffenbachia is a thick, succulent stem bearing large, oval leaves. The Dieffenbachia leaf is an amazing creation of nature, although breeders have made their contribution to the creation of many varieties and hybrids with different leaf colors. The growing point of Dieffenbachia is usually located at the top of the shoot, although there are species in which the dormant points are located at the base of the shoots, and therefore they are capable of bushing. The inflorescence of representatives of this genus, like other Araceae, is in the shape of a spadix, but Dieffenbachia rarely blooms at home. And it is not the flowering of Dieffenbachia that interests flower growers: Dieffenbachia flowers attract the eye with the beauty of their large variegated leaves.

- a unique plant. Get acquainted with a number of features that distinguish the indoor Dieffenbachia flower:

• Dieffenbachia is poisonous, so pruning and replanting of the plant must be carried out while observing safety precautions;
• Dieffenbachia grows very quickly - under favorable conditions, it produces a new leaf weekly, but as it grows, its trunk in the lower part becomes bare, the plant loses its decorative effect, and it has to be pruned and then rooted;
• Dieffenbachia does not tolerate sudden cold spells and drafts at all and loves moisture very much;
• Dieffenbachia does not tolerate lime, so water for irrigation and spraying must be settled or filtered. You can use rain or boiled water.

These not very attractive properties of Dieffenbachia, however, do not detract from its undeniable advantages, the most important of which is beauty and impressiveness.

Caring for Dieffenbachia at home

How to care for Dieffenbachia

Dieffenbachia prefers bright, diffused light without direct sunlight, and varieties with variegated leaves need more light than those with solid green leaves, otherwise their original color will fade. The best place for this rather large plant is at a distance of a meter or two from a brightly lit window. You can keep Dieffenbachia not so close to the window, but then you will have to use additional artificial lighting. The temperature in summer is preferably from 20 to 30 ºC, in winter - not lower than 15 ºC, and remember - no drafts, or Dieffenbachia will begin to lose leaves.

Dieffenbachia should be watered generously in the warm season, but the soil in the pot should not resemble liquid mud. In the cold season, watering is accordingly reduced, but the earthen ball should not dry out even in winter. Dieffenbachia requires high air humidity (65%), so spraying and washing the leaves is necessary, and the more often you do this, the better Dieffenbachia will feel.

For watering, wiping, and spraying, you can only use settled or boiled water. Sometimes, however, you can give a plant, if it is small in size, a cold shower, but the water should not get into the ground.

Caring for Dieffenbachia involves seasonal feeding. Dieffenbachia is fertilized, like most other plants, in the spring and summer, applying liquid mineral or organic fertilizers that do not contain lime once a decade in half the recommended dose. By the way, varieties of Dieffenbachia with white leaves lose this varietal property from the nitrogen contained in complex fertilizers, becoming greenish, so they are not fertilized with organic matter, and mineral fertilizers are applied once every 20 days.

How to transplant Dieffenbachia

Dieffenbachia is transplanted as the roots fill the space of the pot, sometimes you have to do this twice a year, and the best time for this procedure is from February to May. Choose a pot a couple of centimeters in diameter larger than the old one, put a decent layer of drainage in it and transfer the Dieffenbachia with an earthen lump, but cleared of adhering fragments of the old drainage, into a new pot. Then add the required amount of fresh slightly acidic loose substrate, consisting of two parts of leaf soil, one part of peat, one part of crushed sphagnum and half of river sand.

How to prune Dieffenbachia

Sometimes you have to remove damaged leaves of Dieffenbachia, which cats love to eat, and if the plant grows too quickly, you also need to take some measures. In such cases, Dieffenbachia pruning is used.

First of all, blot the damaged leaf with a napkin so that when cutting the poisonous juice does not splash into your eyes, then use a clean knife or blade treated with alcohol for disinfection, cut off the leaf or part of the trunk. The cut areas should be blotted again with a napkin, which will absorb the juice, and treated with crushed coal. Pruning should be done with gloves, and the remaining parts of the plant can be used for propagation.

Dieffenbachia - harm or benefit?

If Dieffenbachia juice gets on the mucous membrane or skin, it will cause burning, redness, swelling and temporary numbness, as with local anesthesia. And if, God forbid, it ends up in the stomach, then profuse salivation, vomiting and paralysis of the vocal cords will almost certainly follow, so Dieffenbachia should be kept at home out of the reach of children. If trouble occurs, you should immediately rinse your mouth with plenty of water, take activated charcoal and, just in case, consult a doctor.

In the plant’s homeland, it is considered a weed; it is mercilessly destroyed, making sure that its remains do not end up in livestock feed. It was used to make poison for rodents and insects and used it as a rod to punish slaves, who suffered for a week after the execution. However, indoor Dieffenbachias are much less poisonous than their wild sisters.

On the other hand, Dieffenbachia undoubtedly brings benefits: NASA data shows that this plant, along with ficus and dracaenas, purifies the air of toxins such as formaldehyde, trichloroethane, xylene and benzene. Therefore, at home, the best place for Dieffenbachia is your kitchen.

Reproduction of Dieffenbachia

Propagation of Dieffenbachia by apical cuttings

This is the easiest way to dispose of an old plant with a trunk that has become bare from time to time. How to root Dieffenbachia? The cut top, having blotted the poisonous juice on the cut, is placed in water, moss, wet sand or a mixture of sand and peat for rooting. The main thing is to regularly spray the cuttings, protect them from direct sunlight and keep them in moderate heat (21-24 ºC). If you are rooting a cutting in water, allow the roots to grow to 2-3 cm, and then plant it in Dieffenbachia substrate in a permanent pot.

Propagation of Dieffenbachia by stem cuttings

Cut the rest of the plant, that is, the bare trunk sticking out of the pot, into pieces with at least one node in the middle, leaving in the pot only a stump no higher than 10 cm. Dry the cuttings for a day or two, place them horizontally on a damp mixture of peat and sand with the buds facing up, cover film and keep at a temperature of about 25 ºC.

When the parts take root, transplant them to a permanent place in the usual substrate for Dieffenbachia. The stump will also come in handy: leave it in the pot, continue to water it moderately, and after a while a new shoot will appear from the top node. Wait until it has 2-3 leaves, then cut it and plant it in the soil for rooting. How many nodes remain on the stump, so many new shoots will develop on it.

The promises are encouraging: Dieffenbachia grows up to 3 meters in height! Read in today's article what to do if Dieffenbachia does not grow: causes and methods of recovery.

Dieffenbachia does not grow - what to do?

When learning the basics of Dieffenbachia care, you expect that the purchased or planted plant will also reach several meters in height and will form large and luxurious leaves with little care. The homeland of Dieffenbachia was originally South America, after which the plant moved to the USA, and from there it spread throughout the globe. Despite the universal popularity of Dieffenbachia, the plant belongs to the southern territories and feels better in countries such as Hawaii, Costa Rica, Honduras, Tahiti, etc. Tropical and subtropical climate– the pinnacle of ideal for Dieffenbachia. Perhaps it is precisely on this principle that it is worth organizing care so that Dieffenbachia grows?

Care for Dieffenbachia growth

Let's review the basics- something that we often forget about some time after purchasing or planting Dieffenbachia, but basic care contains the answers to questions, why the plant does not grow, turns yellow or rots.

Basic care for Dieffenbachia growth:

• Keeping at above-zero temperatures;
• Complete absence of drafts;
• Moderate watering;
• Shading in summer;
• Humidification from 40% to 45%;
• Seasonal feeding;

Finding yourself in European hotels, where Dieffenbachia is used for decoration, or walking along the languid summer streets of South American cities, you are surprised that Dieffenbachia is left “unattended” and cared for for a long time, while the plant does not suffer from developmental disorders. What is the secret to the growth of Dieffenbachia?

Dieffenbachia needs place in a shaded place , but be sure to stay warm. In the case of this plant, the emphasis in care is on air temperature, and not on lighting.

Air temperature and lighting:

• Temperature +21-24°C. The permissible minimum level for Dieffenbachia to feel comfortable is +16° C. Begins to shed leaves and stop growth already at +10 ° C;
• Lighting is moderate, placement on the southeast window in spring and autumn, on the west or north in summer. Small plants dry out faster in the heat, so they are shaded more than adults;

If Dieffenbachia does not grow, look for a problem in temperature and lighting - these are two main criteria in care to which the plant immediately reacts. Then pay attention to the air humidity. The norm, as mentioned, is 40-45%, but on hot summer days it is necessary to additionally spray the air to prevent the Dieffenbachia from drying out.

Comfortable watering: Once every 3-4 days from the beginning of spring to the end of summer. There is no need to flood the plant, despite the heat and dry air - focus on moistening the room, but not the soil. It is better to place Dieffenbachia on a balcony or in a ventilated room, but not in the path of a draft, since temperature changes caused by exposure to cold air in a warm environment disrupt the functioning of the root system, causing a response - stress. A similar failure occurs if Dieffenbachia is standing near a radiator and a ventilated window - hello, Khrushchev - or if the window is opened for ventilation in winter.

Mandatory feeding once every 2 weeks prevent exposure of the lower part of the trunk. Dieffenbachia may therefore stop growing and even shed its leaves if it lacks nutrients. when to feed: from the beginning of May, finish at the end of August. What to use: mineral fertilizers in combination on the root system soaked with water.

Dieffenbachia does not grow, so what to do:

• Raise the temperature to a comfortable level + change the lighting system if there is little light or direct rays.
• Protect from drafts and check the humidity of the soil in the pot and the air in the room.
• Water moderately and, if it is flooded, dry the soil. Feed if the land is depleted.

↓ Write in the comments why your Dieffenbachia did not grow and what methods did you resort to to restore the plant?

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READ ALSO:

Why do Dieffenbachia leaves dry out and turn yellow?

Dieffenbachia - benefits and harm

How to transplant Dieffenbachia at home?

Dieffenbachia transplant at home

Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow, what should I do?

Question: Everyone’s Dieffenbachia cuttings take root easily in water, but mine drops leaves and rots?

natalie: In order for Dieffenbachia to take root safely in water and not rot (loss of leaves is quite acceptable), you need to take clean water, not boiled, but preferably filtered, add 4-5 tablets of activated carbon per half liter, do not keep the jar of water in the light (you can wrap it into a napkin) and periodically change the water to fresh water. You can also root in a weak fertilizer solution. Any fertilizer for decorative foliage plants, taken in a dose 4 times less than recommended for root feeding.

If rotting (the bottom of the cutting becomes slimy and darkens) has begun, then you can cut off the damaged part of the stem to healthy tissue, rinse the cutting in running water, place it in fresh water, to which add a few drops of phytosporin. After 2-3 days, replace the water with fresh water, add phytosporin again, but 2 times less. If there is no phytosporin, add ground cinnamon on the tip of a knife.

If Dieffenbachia is rooted in the ground, then it does not need to be covered with a bag or jar, but the cuttings must be sprayed 2 times a day. And the soil should be kept only slightly moist. Of course, the soil should be sterilized (soak it in the microwave for about 3 minutes), and the cut of the cutting should be sprinkled with crushed charcoal.

• If the leaves of Dieffenbachia dry out and become light-colored, like parchment, the reason is due to overdrying or too dry (and hot) air. Dieffenbachia likes humidity to be around 50-60%. If spraying 2-3 times a day does not help, you need to purchase an air humidifier or cover the batteries with damp terry towels.

Question: Why do the ends of Dieffenbachia leaves dry out?

natalie: In such cases, it is customary to sin immediately on dry air in the room. Indeed, if the room is very hot and dry, the ends of the leaves of Dieffenbachia may dry out, but if the plant is not located next to the heating system, then dry air is not always the cause, or not the only cause, of dry tips and edges of the leaves. More often, the culprit is drying out of the earthen coma, lack of nutrition, especially in large specimens that have not been replanted for several years, as well as pests - mites or thrips, which are quite difficult to notice on variegated leaves.

Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow

Question: The leaves of Dieffenbachia suddenly began to turn yellow, a visual inspection showed no pests, what could be the reason?

Alexander: If the leaves suddenly turn yellow, it is overwatering. And the roots begin to rot. It is necessary to ventilate them, loosen the soil and not water them.

Ksu: Check the soil about 2-2.5cm deep into the pot. If it hasn’t been watered for several days, and the ground is wet (not just wet, but wet), it’s overwatering. It’s better to quickly pull it out of the pot and check the roots. They're probably rotting. Cut off the rotten ones, sprinkle the cuts with charcoal (or activated), although I dump everything that is left of the root system into the charcoal for disinfection. You can keep it in a fungicide solution before “dumping” and after pruning. Plant in slightly moist soil and do not water for several days; it is better to spray. Then water little by little, but more often.

natalie: If the leaves are yellowing with a lemon color (no browning, rather a pale color), a possible cause is spider mites. It is very difficult to notice when it is in small quantities. A characteristic feature is yellowing without definite boundaries - blurry indistinct spots. Try looking for pests on the undersides of the still green leaves closest to the yellowed ones. Symptoms - see.

What kind of pot does Dieffenbachia need?

Question: Does Dieffenbachia like a spacious pot or a cramped one?

Kroky: It grows so quickly, a spacious pot becomes cramped very quickly. Choose a spacious one - the available soil space can be about two to three times larger than the root ball. Do not forget that Dieffenbachia is a powerful plant and the pot must be stable. But if you immediately take a very large pot (the space is 4-5 times larger than the root ball), then the risk of waterlogging increases. Therefore, in a large pot, be careful with watering, or make a higher drainage layer.

What kind of land does Dieffenbachia need?

Question: what kind of land does dieffenbachia need?

Natali: You need soil that is porous and nutritious, with a good amount of humus. Therefore, store-bought soils in their pure form are not suitable (they consist of fibrous peat seasoned with mineral fertilizers). Therefore, it is better to compose the soil from individual components:

• 3 parts leaf humus, 1 part turf soil, 1 part small pebbles or zeolite granules, 1 part humus (compost soil)
• 2 parts of garden soil from vegetables, under which organic matter was added (tomatoes, cucumbers), 1 part of turf soil, 1 part of coconut substrate (briquettes or chips).

It is very important to sterilize the soil before transplanting Dieffenbachia, especially if you bring it from the garden. If the volume of soil is small, you can steam it in the oven on a baking sheet. If the volume is large (a bucket or more), then you can spill it with a very large amount of boiling water. I do this: I pour a little less than a bucket of earth into an old pillowcase, place it in a 15 liter bucket and fill it with boiling water (it takes about 6-7 liters). I leave it for 30-40 minutes, take it out and hang it up to let the water drain for about a day. Then I lay it out on film to dry. Boiling water does not completely sterilize the soil (this requires boiling), but it kills pests, larvae and eggs.

After planting Dieffenbachia, I water it several times with humic preparations, or use it.

Dieffenbachia stretched out

Question: My Dieffenbachia has an elongated trunk and very long petioles, what could this be connected with? I can't wait to cut it, except it's winter now...

Grey: They are elongated because she clearly does not have enough lighting! Now is not the best time of year for houseplants. It's a bit dark. Either move it closer to the window, or arrange additional lighting. Hang a regular fluorescent lamp and add light in the evening. For example, this is what I do: I illuminate many plants until 24 pm. If you move it closer to the window, then pay attention to the radiators. Dieffenbachias do not like dry air, like all other plants. So, it is necessary to humidify the air in the room to increase humidity! No need to cut now! Still, wait until spring, when all plants begin their growing season. Transplantation is also advisable in the spring. There is no need to cause additional stress to the plant.

Question: What to do if the trunk is exposed?

natalie: Dieffenbachia is characterized by gradual exposure of the trunk from below, but this is normal if it grows well and produces new leaves. However, if the new leaves are smaller than the old ones and the petioles are too long, then the plant clearly does not have enough light.

Shlomo: Yellowing of the lower leaves may be normal if the plant is large and there are many healthy leaves, but it may be the result of a draft or lack of light. Dieffenbachia can be illuminated; it develops well even when sunlight is completely replaced with artificial light, and it has a positive attitude toward lengthening daylight hours.

Dieffenbachia flowering

Question: Dieffenbachia grew just fine, then it began to bloom. I heard that flowers need to be removed?

polin: If Dieffenbachia begins to bloom and you want to see the flowering, then it simply needs increased feeding. My bush bloomed. All the “oppression” was expressed in one sheet of smaller than usual size and that’s all. You just need mandatory weekly fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers during the flowering period and after it for at least a month. Then you can switch to the normal feeding mode.

If we proceed from the fact that when we need to support the foliage, we feed it where there is more nitrogen, i.e. as usual, “for decorative deciduous trees.” But, since it still blooms, I did one feeding “for decorative flowering plants,” where there is more potassium and phosphorus.

Healthy Dieffenbachia is characterized by vigorous growth and bright leaves of appropriate size and color for the variety. If a plant loses its attractiveness and begins to get sick, this is most often due to errors in care, violations of temperature or water conditions. Let's take a closer look at why Dieffenbachia gets sick and what measures need to be taken to prevent damage to the flower by pests and diseases.

Pests of Dieffenbachia

Despite the fact that the plants are poisonous, they are often attacked by pests.

The most common:

Spider mite, a sign of damage to which is the presence of cobwebs in the internodes of the trunks, sluggish and falling leaves.

Thrips, small (1-2 mm) bugs that suck the juices from the plant, which leads to stunted growth, curling and drying of the leaves.

Aphids, numerous colonies of which not only weaken plants by sucking out intercellular fluid, but are also carriers of various diseases.

The appearance of spider mites, thrips and aphids on Dieffenbachia is especially favored by dry indoor air (relative humidity below 60%).

Scale insects and false scale insects, which suck the juice from leaves and stems, leaving a characteristic discharge, brown plaques that are difficult to remove. The leaves become discolored, dry out and fall off.

Mealybugs, insects 3-6 mm in size, attack leaves, stems and flowers, which are covered with a white mealy coating. The leaves become deformed and dry out, which can lead to the death of the entire plant.

Measures to combat all of the listed Dieffenbachia pests are similar; they consist of their mechanical removal using a sponge and soap solution, followed by rinsing under running warm water, and treatment, if necessary, with insecticidal preparations, actellik or karbofos, at a concentration of 15 drops per liter of water.

Dieffenbachia diseases

Most Dieffenbachia diseases belong to the fungal group, the most common of which are:

Leaf spot, causing the appearance along the edges of leaves, primarily the lower ones, of small brown spots with an orange border, gradually covering the surface of the entire leaf plate. The disease is transmitted through plant debris and water.

Anthracnose, in which fairly large spots appear on the edges of the leaf plates, gradually spreading over the entire surface and causing drying and death of the leaf. It is also transmitted through infected plant parts.

Both diseases are provoked by high temperature and humidity, waterlogged soil; as control measures, it is recommended to optimize the temperature regime and watering, as well as treat the affected specimens with a systemic fungicide, for example, foundationazol or vitaros.

Fusarium, affects the root collar and root of the flower, where dark depressed spots of an elongated shape are formed. Infected Dieffenbachia turns yellow and wilts. In damaged areas you can see light pink mycelium of the fungus. The causative agent of the disease persists in the soil for a long time and spreads when it touches diseased and healthy plant roots. The disease is promoted by overdrying and lack of potassium.

To prevent fusarium, it is recommended to use high-quality soil, healthy planting material, treated for disinfection with a biological fungicide (for example, hyocladine). When signs of disease appear, spray with a systemic fungicide.

Root rot, manifested in the form of dark depressed areas on the neck and roots, gradually capturing the entire tissue and causing decay, and subsequently lodging and death of the plant. The affected parts are covered with light gray mycelium. The disease is transmitted through the soil; it is facilitated by an excess of fertilizers and moisture in the soil, lack of ventilation, and high temperature. If there are signs of damage, limit watering, replace the substrate and treat with a systemic fungicide.

Among bacterial diseases, we note Dieffenbachia bacteriosis, in which watery areas with sharply defined boundaries appear on the trunks and leaves. Later they acquire a brown or brown color. The disease spreads through infected plant remains due to mechanical damage, for example, during cuttings. Flowers kept at elevated temperatures and humidity, with an increased amount of fertilizer in the soil, are more severely affected. Diseased specimens are destroyed.

Viral diseases include:

Bronzing of Dieffenbachia, manifested in the appearance of yellow circles, rings and arcs on the surfaces, the affected leaves wither and remain hanging on the trunks, often on one infected side.

Viral mosaic, which is characterized by mosaic leaf spotting.

Dieffenbachia affected by these diseases does not grow, stops developing, cannot be treated and must be destroyed to prevent the spread of the virus. The pathogen is carried by insects, thrips (bronzing) or aphids (mosaic). A preventive measure is treatment with insecticides.

Other problems encountered when growing Dieffenbachia

In addition to the pests and diseases listed above, Dieffenbachia may suffer from improper care and unsuitable living conditions. Let's look at some questions that often arise among amateur gardeners.

Why does Dieffenbachia turn yellow? Most often, the reason for this behavior is low air temperature in winter or drafts, as well as a lack of nutrients and watering with hard water. Yellowing of the lower leaves with intensive growth of the top usually signals that the flower needs to be transplanted into a larger pot. Dieffenbachia leaves also turn yellow when affected by root rot.

Why do Dieffenbachia leaves curl? This usually occurs when attacked by pests, also when watering with cold water, drafts and low temperatures.

Why does the stem become soft and rot? The reason is waterlogging combined with low air temperatures. If the decay is small, you can try to remove it by covering the cut with activated charcoal or charcoal; if it is large, cut off the flower and root the top.

Why does Dieffenbachia dry out? If old leaves dry out, then this is a natural process; if the decorative effect is lost and the stem is exposed, the Dieffenbachia is rejuvenated by cutting off and rooting the top. If young leaves dry out, the cause may be dry soil, cold air, or drafts.

Why do the edges of leaves turn brown? This is most likely caused by drying out soil or low temperatures in winter.

Why do the leaves become discolored? The reason is too bright lighting or direct sunlight on the plant.

Why does Dieffenbachia cry? This occurs from excessive watering; the flower protects itself from excess moisture in the soil. The same behavior is characteristic of Dieffenbachia before rain. As a resident of tropical forests, the plant prepares in advance for excess water and opens channels to get rid of it.

A tall plant with large and beautiful leaves has firmly settled not only in office premises, but also in private homes. can revive a dull room by adding a bright shade and introducing a fresh touch of a wild garden. However, in order to grow a gorgeous bush, you will need to provide the plant with suitable conditions and properly care for it, otherwise, instead of a beautiful trunk with huge shiny leaves, you can, at best, get a bare stick with a leafy tuft on the top.

What difficulties do flower growers encounter when they want to have diffebachia in their collection? Most often the following phenomena can be noticed:

• falling of the lower leaves;
• drying of leaf tips;
• loss of leaf color;
• new leaves grow small;
• the trunk becomes soft and limp.

Why do the leaves fall?

In indoor conditions, in most Dieffenbachias, over time, the lower tier of leaves withers and falls off. This is a normal phenomenon when it occurs gradually. If the leaves begin to fall off too quickly, the reason for this may be:

1. Lack of moisture (watering occasionally). Solution to the problem: establish a watering regime and prevent the soil from completely drying out.
2. small pot. Solution to the problem: urgently transplant the flower into a larger pot.

In winter, the lower leaves may still turn yellow and curl from drafts and cold.

Why do the tips of the leaves dry out?

A healthy Dieffenbachia leaf should have a uniform color, without wet or dry spots. Drying of the tips of the leaf blade may indicate violations of the flower’s maintenance conditions, namely:

• temperature difference;
• low humidity;
• draft;
• soil acidification;
• incorrect spraying.

To avoid this phenomenon, you should provide the plant with a comfortable constant temperature (not lower than 17 degrees Celsius), be sure to make a drainage layer in the pot and regularly spray the leaves (in the daytime!), as well as periodically wash or wipe them.

Reasons for the loss of brightness of leaves and their shredding

When a bright green leaf begins to fade, discolor and lose brightness, this signals:

1. If there is a lack of light or an excess of it, you need to move the flowerpot to a more (or less) illuminated place.
2. Lack of nutrition - feed Dieffenbachia with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
3. Excess nitrogen in the soil - eliminate nitrogen-containing preparations for a while.

In the case when young leaves become discolored, and they grow small, the increased acidity of the soil becomes evident. You need to change the substrate to a new one.

Why does the trunk lose turgor?

A healthy trunk is solid and stands firmly upright. But if the room is cold, and the soil is also acidic, the stem becomes lighter and softer and begins to rot, and the flower itself falls on its side.