Kumquat (translated from Chinese as “golden apple”) or kinkan is an evergreen citrus tree. The charming plant has a dense crown with bright green leaves and fragrant white-pink flowers, and during the fruiting period the kumquat is completely covered with small orange or yellow fruits.

Kinkan is especially popular among craftsmen who create bonsai. Those who want to have such a beautiful plant are interested in the following questions: is it possible to grow a kumquat at home and how to care for an exotic kumquat at home?

Caring for kumquat at home

Kinkan is quite picky about growing conditions. For successful plant growth at home, the necessary microclimate must be created.

Lighting

Kumquat prefers diffused light in summer and direct sunlight in winter. If there is not enough light during the winter months, additional artificial lighting should be provided.

Air temperature

The optimal temperature for keeping a tree in summer is +25...30 degrees, and in winter – at least +15 degrees. To avoid overheating of the soil, it is recommended to place the pot with the plant in sawdust or sand.

Air humidity

It is necessary to provide the plant with moist air by regularly spraying the crown with water at room temperature.

Watering

Kumquat loves abundant watering. In spring and summer, water the tree almost every day, making sure the soil remains moist. In winter, the number of waterings is reduced to 1 - 2 times a week. Only distilled water is used.

Top dressing

A simple rule applies here: the smaller the capacity of the pot and the larger the size of the plant, the more often the kumquat is fertilized. During the warm period, fertilizing is applied 2 - 3 times a month, during the cold period - once every one and a half months. A solution of mineral fertilizers is suitable for fertilization: 2 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium salt and 5 g of simple superphosphate are taken per 1 liter of water.

Kumquat propagation

At home, kumquat, like other citrus fruits, is propagated by grafting, layering and cuttings. Moreover, it has been noticed that kumquats grown from cuttings or layering begin to bear fruit earlier, but grafted plants grow stronger and healthier.

Kumquat replanting

The plant is transplanted at the end of winter before the shoots begin to grow, no more than once every 3 years. A larger container is being prepared for transplantation, a drainage layer is laid out on its bottom, then a layer of fertile soil. The roots of the tree are carefully released along with an earthen clod, and the kumquat is moved to a new pot by the method of transshipment. The resulting gaps between the walls of the vessel and the clod of earth are filled with soil mixture, slightly compacting it. For 2 weeks, the transplanted kinkan is placed in a warm, shaded place.

How to pollinate a kumquat?

Kinkan flowers are bisexual, so self-pollination of the plant is possible. But for a more effective cross method pollination, it is better to keep a couple of trees in the house. When moving a plant to a garden plot or a loggia during a warm period, pollination with the help of insects is possible.

Kumquat has dropped its leaves

In dry air, especially during cold periods, the kinkan sheds its leaves. The plant loses vitality and is attacked by pests ( and ). Frequently spraying the crown with settled water and placing containers of water near heating devices will help maintain the health of the plant and its presentable appearance. Watering with cold water can also cause leaves to fall off. Kumquats should only be watered with infused water at room temperature!

Let's consider the reasons for the loss of leaves in citrus fruits:
1. If you put the plant on the window, then you do not need to periodically move it to another place; Citrus fruits are one-stop-shop plants.
2. The most common mistake is that the pot of citrus fruits should not be “twisted” much by 180 or 90 degrees. In this case, the leaves turn yellow and fall off - the tree dies. Every 10 days you need to turn the pot 10 degrees (no more), and preferably counterclockwise.
3. When you find yourself in an unusual climate, i.e. When moving from a store or greenhouse to an apartment, citrus fruits can also shed leaves.
4. If there are drafts in the apartment, the citrus leaves will definitely fall off.
5. If you moisten the soil excessively in winter, it turns sour and, as a result, citrus leaves turn yellow and fall off.
6. If you plant a small plant immediately in a bucket, and even more so in a tub, then in a week the leaves of the tree will turn yellow, and after another 1.5 weeks it will fall;
7. Under no circumstances should citrus fruits be placed near a microwave oven. Otherwise, not only will the leaves fall, but the tree will die.
8. Citrus fruits lose leaves and fruits due to improper feeding and replanting.

If in winter the leaves of citrus fruits begin to curl, turn yellow, fall off, and the shoots dry out, then the tree drops unripe fruits. If a plant with fruits was purchased in winter, then it will definitely drop the fruits (especially if the tree is imported), and then part of the leaves (or all the leaves). When buying citrus trees in winter, I recommend removing most of the fruits (or better yet, all of them), removing any emerging flowers, and trimming the fruit-bearing shoots by 1/3.

Before rehoming your pet, make sure it is time for rehoming. Roots coming out of the drainage are not a reason to replant. Carefully remove the top layer of soil. If you see that the top of the earthen ball is entwined with many roots, do not rush in this case either. Pass the stem of the tree between your index and middle fingers, tilt the pot slightly and try to pull out the earthen lump by lightly tapping the bottom. If it is easy to pull out an earthen ball heavily entwined with roots, and if it is autumn, do not replant the tree until mid-February.
If spring comes, then you can transplant the citrus tree into a slightly larger container than the previous one.
If the earthen ball is not strongly entwined with roots, replanting will be needed only next spring (regardless of the current time of year).
Teach: citrus fruits love not transplantation, but transshipment!

I do not recommend replanting citrus fruits in winter or autumn: the tree does not have time to adapt, and winter has already arrived. So it begins to wither and get sick in winter - especially if there are mistakes in care. To “reanimate” citrus fruits in winter, you need to pour previously prepared soil from under the oak tree on top of the old soil (in a layer of 2-3 cm) - the tree will quickly “come to its senses”.
As drainage, you need to pour 1.5-2 cm thick expanded clay onto the bottom of the pot.

Now about the soil. The best soil is from under the oak tree. Oak has great energy power; The soil must be taken carefully without damaging the root system of the tree. Use part of the soil taken from under the oak tree to transship citrus fruits, and leave the remaining soil “in reserve” - in case the citrus fruit foliage begins to curl, turn yellow, or fall off (especially if this happens in winter). After all, in winter it is difficult to obtain this soil: in the forest the ground is frozen, and, in addition, there is knee-deep snow. This is where “in reserve” comes in handy.

You can also use the following soil composition for citrus fruits:

1-2 parts of rotted leaf soil from under the oak tree;
- 1 part rotted manure (horse);
- 1 part of turf land from meadows where clover grows;
- 1 part coarse river sand;
- 0.5 parts of hardwood wood ash;
- 4 parts lake silt.

In fresh, nutritious soil, citrus fruits develop a good root system.

Water freshly taken from the tap is completely unsuitable for watering citrus fruits (it contains a large amount of chlorine, which they do not like). It is better to water citrus fruits with settled water to which vinegar has been added (a few drops per liter of water); they respect it very much.

Citrus fruits need regular feeding. They need:
- nitrogen (provides rapid growth). Thanks to nitrogen, citrus leaves acquire a rich green color;
- phosphorus (thanks to phosphorus, the seedling begins to bear fruit faster). Phosphorus is also needed for the ripening of fruits and young wood;
- potassium (the normal and timely ripening of young leaves, shoots, and fruits depends on potassium). With a lack of potassium, citrus fruits take on an ugly shape and often fall off before they are ripe. In addition, potassium supplements help increase resistance to various diseases.

Citrus fruits should be fertilized according to the following scheme:

Menu plan for the summer months (apply from May to October inclusive):
- 1st and 15th - manure (100 g of manure per liter of water; use a two-week infusion);
- 8th - egg shell (two-week infusion in water);
- 20th - blood from meat, poultry, fish (dilute in half with water and pour; then pour plain water on top);
- 23rd number - ash; the best ash from potato, sunflower or straw tops (1 tablespoon per liter of water for irrigation);
- 27th - pond silt (150-200 g per liter of water).

Menu plan for the winter period:
- 1, 10, 20, dates fertilizer for feeding from November to May (2 caps per 1.5 liters of water);
- 5th - egg shell (two-week infusion in water);
- on the 15th - blood from meat, poultry, fish (dilute in half with water and pour over; then pour plain water on top);
- 25th - ash (1 tablespoon per liter of water for irrigation).

Fruiting lemons, tangerines and other citrus fruits bloom profusely, which leads to a weakening of the tree. Therefore, flowers located nearby should be thinned out, leaving larger ones - those on which the ovary is better developed. Preference should be given to fruits sitting on short branches - fruitlets. On long branches, the fruits grow more slowly.

It takes several months for the fruit to ripen. There are so many ovaries that there is an active discharge of young ovaries and fruits that have not yet filled with juice. The fruit fall is so strong that the soil under the trees is completely covered with small fruits. That's why
it is recommended to regulate fruiting. Immediately after flowering, pick off a number of young ovaries.

Kumquat (Kinkan) is a shrub of the Kumquat genus, which belongs to the Rutaceae family. The plant is native to Southeast Asia, therefore it prefers growing conditions close to its natural habitat.

For example, lighting should only be diffused. Intense sunlight is allowed only for a short time. kumquat perfectly takes root on rich turf, humus soils, that is, on fertile ones. Be sure to mix coarse sand in order to maintain the normal permeability of the soil mixture for water and air. It is necessary to water moderately. Since the kumquat lives for a very long time (up to 40 years), the care is carried out so that the bush does not get sick, so as not to have problems with it once again.

Kumquat leaves are falling

What to do if kumquat leaves fall off? What could be the reason for such modifications?

The tree itself needs to be constantly washed and the branches treated. It is also advisable to spray water into the air from a spray bottle and not move the kumquat away from the light source during the ripening period, since the tree has adapted to its placement in natural conditions and will be extremely puzzled by such a change.

Constant air humidification is the key to excellent development of kumquat. But what else should you pay attention to and what could cause problems if the leaves of a kumquat fall off?

Incorrect placement also manifests itself in the fact that kumquats at home may be placed incorrectly. It can also develop on northern windows, but the air temperature must be certain. For example, in spring and summer – from 25 to 30 degrees. In winter, kumquat needs coolness, which is very pleasing, so the temperature is from 10 to 15 degrees.

Winter and summer kumquat care - preventing leaves from falling

In winter, the kumquat needs additional lighting, otherwise it may begin to shed its leaves. It is better not to place it on the windowsill during this period, since temperature changes and night frosts will significantly affect the health of the kumquat.

It is also worth considering that kumquat will not tolerate sudden changes in temperature - it must be removed from the winter season gradually. The plant feels temperature changes even without being outside, so you need to take care of it if the temperature outside is expected to drop or rise, but at home everything is the same, otherwise the kumquat leaves will begin to fall off.

Many amateur gardeners want their green pets to not only please the eye, but also provide practical benefits, such as producing edible fruits. One of these fruit-bearing plants that has recently become quite widespread is kumquat: one of the few citrus fruits grown at home.

Kumquat has many names:

• fortunella - the name comes from the genus of the plant,
• Kinkan - this is what kumquat is called in Japan,
• Chinese mandarin, golden apple - popular names for kumquat,

and belongs to the genus Fortunella or Citrus of the rue family (Rutaceae).

The kumquat is found in the wild in southeastern and southern China, and the fruit is grown commercially throughout China, Hong Kong, Japan and almost all other countries in East Asia.

In its natural environment, the kumquat is a tree-like shrub with a dense, ball-shaped crown, reaching up to 4 meters in height. When grown at home, the kumquat looks like a small tree with a dense crown, its maximum height is 1.5 meters. Kumquat leaves are compact (about 5 cm in length), rich green in color, flowers are medium-sized, white or cream in color, with a characteristic citrus smell. The fruits, the main value for which Fortunella is grown, are small (about 5 cm), oval-shaped, bright orange. The pulp of the fruit is edible, juicy, with a bright citrus taste. The skin of the kumquat is also edible and has a pleasant sweet taste.

Types of kumquat suitable for home cultivation

Almost all types of Chinese mandarin cultivated outdoors are also suitable for home cultivation, but gardeners give special preference to several varieties:

(Nagami Kumquat) is the most common variety. The fruits are sweet, the size and shape of an olive, and are eaten with the peel. There are several recently developed subspecies:

• Nordmann Seedless Nagami Kumquat is a seedless form of kumquat,
• Variegatum - a subspecies with decorative stripes on fruits that disappear after ripening

The Nagami variety is used not only for fruit production, but also as a basis for bonsai.

K. Nagami

Or kumquat japanese(Marumi Kumquat, Japonica Kumquat) is a small shrub with short thorns on its branches. Oval, tangerine-like, golden-orange fruits have an exquisite sweet taste. Kumquat Marumi is a fairly frost-resistant variety, so in the southern regions of Russia it can even be grown in open ground.

K. Marumi

(Meiwa Kumquat) gives its owner yellow-orange, lemon-like fruits with a pleasant taste. The shrub itself is low, with a dense crown and small oval leaves. Even in the absence of fruits, the Maewa kumquat is quite capable of decorating the interior.

K. Meiva

Hong Kong kumquat(Fortunella hindsii) - unlike previous varieties, the fruits of this kumquat are not edible, and most of the fruit is occupied by seeds. Hong Kong kumquat is cultivated exclusively as an ornamental plant.

Malayan kumquat(Fortunella polyandra), like the Hong Kong kumquat, is grown only as a green interior decoration. In Southeast Asian countries it is used as a hedge.

(Fortunella obovata), in contrast to the Malayan and Hong Kong kumquats, is quite edible, and its fruits have a delicate sweet taste.

K. Fukushi

In addition to various varieties of Fortunella, all kinds of hybrids of kumquat with some citrus fruits can be cultivated as indoor plants: limequat (lime + kumquat), orangequat (orange + kumquat), lemonquat (lemon + kumquat), calamondin (mandarin + kumquat nagami) and many others .

How to grow kumquat at home

Let us note right away that growing kumquat at home is not at all an easy matter. All citrus fruits, and kumquats in particular, are quite capricious and require care and increased attention from the grower. But the payoff from them is great: the plants are not only beautiful, but also prolific, and who doesn’t want to try a tropical fruit grown with their own hands. Therefore, despite all the difficulties, kumquat can and should be grown at home, following several rules for the maintenance and care of the delicate plant.

Temperature and lighting

In nature, kinkan grows in southern countries, where summers are hot and sunny, and winters are quite warm (about 10-15 ° C), therefore, when keeping citrus indoors, it is necessary to create similar temperature conditions. The optimal temperature for the summer period is about 25-28 °C; in winter the plant will feel comfortable at 10-12 °C. Extremes (extreme heat or, conversely, a decrease in temperature) must be excluded. In summer, the container with kumquat can be taken out into the open air.

In winter, for subsequent successful fruiting, it is recommended that the kumquat have a dormant period. To do this, the citrus must be placed in the coolest (but not cold!) place in the apartment, for example a loggia, and watering must be reduced. This regime promotes further flowering and the appearance of fruits on the kumquat.

[!] Advice from gardeners: the warmer the kumquat wintering place, the more light the plant requires. If in winter the kumquat is located in a warm, poorly lit place, leaf fall will most likely begin. In the future, such a plant will be difficult to revive.

Lighting is also of great importance for growing kinkan, especially during the cold winter period. In summer, lighting should be diffused, without direct sunlight. In winter, on the contrary, it is recommended to provide the citrus with intense natural light, and in its absence, additionally highlight the plant using a phytolamp.

Watering and air humidity

The frequency of watering kumquat directly depends on the time of year: on hot days, in summer, citrus needs to be watered more often, but in winter, on the contrary, watering should be reduced. The need for watering is determined by the condition of the earthen clod: if the soil has dried by about 4-5 cm, the time for watering has come. Both excess and lack of moisture are equally harmful to kumquat. A flooded plant may develop root rot, and completely dry soil will lead to the death of Fortunella. Excess water that appears in the pan after watering should be drained after thirty minutes.

[!] To water kumquat, you should use only filtered or settled water at room temperature.

Plants native to the subtropics, including kinkan, need moist air all year round. Spraying the kumquat with a spray bottle or placing a container of water next to the bowl will help increase air humidity. Adult, healthy Fortunellas will sometimes benefit from water treatments: bathing in the shower and wiping the leaves with a damp sponge.

Transplantation, soil, fertilizing

The frequency of kumquat replanting directly depends on the age of the plant. Young (0-1 year) kinkans are replanted 2 times a year, middle-aged kumquats (2-4 years) - once a year, adult plants no more than once every 1-3 years. The kumquat itself will help determine the need for replanting: if roots stick out from the drainage hole, the plant needs to be moved to a new bowl.

[!] It is strictly not recommended to deepen the kumquat deeper than before transplantation - this can cause the citrus to get sick and die.

The optimal transplant, the least traumatic for kumquat, is transshipment. In this case, all the previous soil along with the root system is preserved and transferred to a large container, and new fresh soil is added to the free spaces and compacted.

If, during inspection of the root ball during transplantation, roots affected by rot are discovered, the transshipment method will not work. In this case, the rotten parts of the roots must be removed, the cuts must be treated with root and, having completely replaced the substrate, the plant must be planted.

[!] When choosing a pot for replanting, you should not buy one that is too large. The new container should be only 2-3 cm larger than the previous one. Too large a volume of earthen coma can cause root rot and lack of fruit on kumquat.

The soil most suitable for planting kumquat should be slightly acidic, fairly loose (air- and moisture-permeable) and nutritious. To prepare the soil yourself, you need to take two parts of turf soil, one part of leaf soil and half of sand. From ready-made mixtures, special substrates for citrus fruits are suitable: Garden of Miracles, Vermion, Terra Vita with the addition of sand, perlite, crushed pine bark.

[!] Pay attention to the amount of peat in the finished soil mixture. Too much peat has a negative impact on the growth and development of kumquat.

We should not forget about drainage: a sufficiently high layer (about a quarter of the entire volume of the pot) will ensure the unhindered drainage of excess liquid and the flow of air to the roots of Fortunella.

What fertilizers to use to feed homemade kumquat depends on the time of year and the phase of plant development. So, for example, during the growth period of the kinkan, nitrogen fertilizers are best suited, during the flowering period - phosphorus and potassium, and during preparation for wintering - potassium. There are also special fertilizers for citrus fruits - Reacom Micom-Citrus, Garden of Miracles Lemon, Fasco for citrus fruits, Tsitovit, the composition of which must be carefully studied before use.

There are situations when feeding kumquat is not only ineffective, but even harmful:

• citrus disease, weakened plant,
• rooting cuttings,
• adaptation to new conditions after purchase,
• replanting into new soil,
• dormant period (wintering), especially at low temperatures

Reproduction

Kumquat, like most domestic citrus fruits, reproduces in several ways:

• bone,
• cuttings
• vaccination
• ringing of shoots

Reproduction by bone- a method popular with beginning flower growers. Of course, it is quite possible to grow a kumquat from a seed, but you need to take into account that the kinkan obtained in this way will grow for a very long time, and flowering and fruiting will occur only in 10-15 years.

In order to grow a kumquat from a seed, you need to take several fresh (not dry!) ​​seeds, soak them in a root solution for several days and plant them in universal soil. After the seeds have sprouted and several leaves appear on each seedling, they can be picked, that is, planted in separate pots. For picking, it is better to take the largest and healthiest seedlings. Further maintenance and care are the same as for an adult plant.

Propagation by cuttings- the optimal way to guarantee the early development and fruiting of kumquat.

For cuttings, select a branch about 10 cm long with several small leaves and cut it obliquely from above and below (the lower cut is immediately after the lower bud, the upper cut is 5 mm above the uppermost bud). The lower cut is powdered with root or crushed coal, after which the cutting is planted: a layer of drainage and universal soil are poured into the bowl, and sand is poured into the middle of it, in the prepared depression. Plant the cuttings in the sand, and in the future the roots will grow directly into the ground. The planted cuttings are covered with a glass jar and watered regularly. After new shoots appear, the jar can be removed little by little for a few minutes a day, and then removed completely.

Grafting and ringing of shoots- rather complex and labor-intensive methods of kumquat propagation, suitable only for experienced gardeners.

fruiting kumquat

The main question that concerns flower growers who grow kumquats is how to get citrus fruit to bear fruit.

• For early fruiting, it is necessary to take kumquats grown from cuttings. In this case, the appearance of the first fruits is possible already in 5-6 years. If the kumquat has grown from a seed, the appearance of the fruit may be significantly delayed or may not occur at all.
• It is important to regulate the flowering of kumquat: a large number of flowers weakens the plant and prevents the production of high-quality ovaries.
• Like flowers, excess ovaries also need to be removed. It is better to leave one large and healthy ovary than several weakened ones. The optimal number of ovaries is one per 10-15 leaves.
• Kumquat is considered a capricious plant that is difficult to grow, so experienced gardeners often graft it onto lemon, orange or trifoliate. In this case, Fortunella will grow and bear fruit better.
• And finally, the last point is patience. Citrus fruits in general, and kumquats in particular, are not easy to keep in apartments, and their fruiting is the aerobatics of a florist. But with a certain amount of patience and perseverance, it is quite possible to enjoy your own tropical fruit.

Diseases, pests and growing problems

The main pests of kumquat are spider mites and scale insects.

The reason for the appearance of spider mites is excessively dry air in the room. If the plant is slightly infected, spraying with plain water will help. If the spider mite colony has grown, modern insecticides will come to the rescue.

Infection with scale insects occurs due to improper maintenance of kumquat. To combat this pest, mechanical methods (collecting scale insects from leaves) and treatment with Aktara are used.

Unfortunately, kumquat is susceptible to many diseases, many of which appear only on citrus plants - malsecco, gommosis, xylopsoriasis, and so on. However, kumquats are not spared from common plant diseases - root rot, and others. In order to cure kumquat, it is necessary to correctly diagnose the disease and determine the nature of its origin (viruses, bacteria, fungi). And the best prevention of all kumquat diseases will be proper and timely care of the plant.

Let's take a closer look at some of the problems that arise when growing kumquats.

Kumquat losing leaves:

• Most likely, the plant overwintered in a place that was too warm; a dormant period with a decrease in temperature was not organized. What to do: place the kumquat in a bright and cool place during the cold season, reduce watering, that is, organize proper wintering.
• Leaf fall is also observed some time after purchasing the plant. This is an inevitable process associated with changes in the conditions of keeping the kumquat. What to do: remove all fruits, ovaries and buds; examine the roots for the presence of rot (rinse the soil if necessary), treat the kumquat with biostimulants for growth (Epin, Atlet, Amulet), place the crown of the tree in a plastic bag for 10-14 days.

Newly emerging kumquat leaves stretch out. The probable reason is a change in the lighting conditions of the kinkan after purchase. What to do: if the leaves do not fall off, you do not need to do anything; in the future, the plant itself will adjust the leaf size.

Yellow spots on kumquat leaves, drying tip of the leaf. Most likely the kinkan was overfed with fertilizer, since these symptoms indicate a chemical burn. What to do: completely eliminate all fertilizing for a while and, if possible, wash the soil.

Kumquat ovaries fall off. It's OK. it is a natural process. The plant itself regulates the number of ovaries, in the end only the healthiest and most viable ones remain.

Kumquat: benefits and harms

The benefits of kumquat are obvious - the exquisite taste of the fruit, the beauty of the tree, and the ability to help with certain diseases. And, if everything is clear about the decorative and taste qualities of the plant, then it’s worth talking about its medicinal properties in more detail:

1. Kumquat is used in the prevention and treatment of colds;
2. Widely used during diets as a source of essential vitamins and microelements;
3. A large amount of fiber and pectin stimulate intestinal motility;
4. Helps with fungal diseases;
5. Removes harmful substances and excess fluid from the body.

But, as you know, in every barrel of honey there is a fly in the ointment. The same can be said about kumquat: unfortunately, fortunella is not beneficial for everyone. Kumquat should not be consumed in the following cases:

1. Allergy to citrus fruits;
2. Increased stomach acidity;
3. Kidney diseases;
4. Pregnancy and lactation.

Well, in general, the kumquat is a wonderful plant that can provide its owner with magnificent and very healthy fruits.

And finally, a recipe using kumquat.

Kumquat jam

You will need: 1 kg of kumquats, 1 kg of sugar, juice from two oranges and lemons.

Preparation: Cut the kumquats in half, remove the seeds. Cover the prepared fruits with sugar and pour juice, leave for 2-4 hours. Boil the resulting mass over low heat for half an hour, cool and repeat the procedure. Place the finished jam into sterilized jars.

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For many gardeners, having a plant that not only pleases the eye, but also bears fruit, is a fixation. One of these fruit-bearing plants that has gained immense popularity recently is kumquat, This is a citrus plant that can be grown at home.

Did you know? In Chinese, kumquat means “golden apple.”.

Description of the kumquat, how it appeared in our area

So, kumquat, what is it? It is an evergreen tree from the citrus family. Kumquat has gained considerable popularity among gardeners. China is considered the birthplace of the kumquat.

In the twentieth century it was brought to the American and European continents, now it grows in almost all countries, and they call it - japanese orange. In the wild, kumquat grows in southern and southeastern China.

The domestic kumquat shrub is very miniature and compact, with a well-developed ball-shaped crown (due to dense tillering) and small leaves. Kumquat blooms with pink and white flowers with a pleasant persistent smell, which produce abundant fruiting.

The maximum height of the plant is 1.5 m, the leaves are up to 5 cm in length, have a rich green color, the flowers are small, and have a strong citrus scent. The main value of kumquat is its fruit. They are small, do not exceed 5 cm, have an oval shape, are orange in color and very bright.

Outwardly, a kumquat looks like a small orange, and in taste it resembles a tangerine with only one difference - the kumquat has an edible peel. The skin is very sweet, but the flesh is slightly sour. It is customary to eat kumquat with the whole peel, so the sour pulp and sweet peel mix and give a pleasant, balanced taste.

How to choose a place to plant kumquat (kinkan)

In order for a kumquat to grow well and produce a large harvest, it needs to choose the right place. Let's figure out how to care for kumquat at home?

What should be the temperature and lighting

In the summer, diffused sunlight will be enough for kumquat. If the weather is not particularly hot, then direct sunlight will suit him. It is also recommended to take it out to the balcony, garden or vegetable garden so that the tree is saturated with street freshness.

In winter, the plant needs a lot of light, so it is better to place it on a well-lit windowsill. If possible, the kumquat can be additionally illuminated using lamps.

Air temperature plays an important role in plant development. In summer, for good growth, kumquat needs a temperature of 25-30°C, and in winter, about 18°C ​​will be enough for it.

Humidity and growing kumquat

Kumquat is a plant that prefers to be grown at home in high humidity conditions. If the air is too dry, it will quickly shed its leaves. This often happens after the start of the heating season, when the air temperature in apartments rises sharply.

To prevent such troubles, you need to spray the plant with a spray bottle as often as possible. If you have the opportunity and desire, you can give the kumquat a “bath day” once a week and wash it in the shower.

Important! If in winter the kumquat is kept in a room with a low temperature, then you need to avoid showering and spray the plant less often. Due to high humidity and low temperatures, fungal diseases may appear.

How to prepare the soil for planting

When asking the question: “How to grow kumquat at home?”, you should first of all be interested in the composition of the soil for the growth of this plant.

The first thing you need to know about the soil for kumquat is that it should consist of equal parts of garden soil and river sand. Before mixing, the sand is well calcined in the oven.

Then the treated and mixed soil is poured into a pot no larger than 8 cm in diameter, but high. First, drainage in the form of coarse sand or expanded clay is poured into the bottom of the pot.

Kumquat planting rules

So, how to plant the plant correctly to grow a beautiful and strong kumquat at home? You need to plant it in a soil mixture of sand and soil; for better nutrition of the roots, you can add a little humus.

It is better to place the pot with the plant on a sunny windowsill, where it will “bathe” in the sun’s rays, grow and get stronger. It is worth placing a container of water next to the kumquat to increase air humidity. You can place the kumquat among other plants, then they will nourish each other with moisture.

Kumquat care, how to grow a citrus tree

Kumquat is a very demanding plant that needs special conditions for growth. In order for it to grow well, it needs to create a favorable microclimate.

Watering the plant

Kumquat needs moderate watering in autumn and spring, but in winter watering should be reduced. But in summer it is necessary to water kumquats as often as possible.

It will be better if you make it a rule to water kumquats in the first half of the day. The water should be no lower than room temperature, because If you water a plant with cold water, all its leaves will simply fall off.

To prevent stagnation of water in the soil, drainage is placed at the bottom of the pot. You can also add drainage in the form of small pebbles to the soil mixture itself.

Important! In summer you need to water at least 3 times a week. Check soil dryness to determine watering frequency.

Feeding and fertilizing

How often a kumquat needs to be fed and how much fertilizer a kumquat needs depends on many factors. The composition of the soil, the age of the tree and its condition are taken into account, and the size of the pot in which the kumquat grows is also important.

In the period from March to September, plants that bear fruit need fertilizing at least 3 times a month, the rest of the time you can feed them once a month and a half. Fertilizers should consist of 2.5 g of ammonium nitrate, 1.5 g of potassium salt or potassium chloride, 1.5 g of superphosphate and a liter of water.

How to form the crown of a “golden orange”

In order for the kumquat to have a presentable appearance and begin to bear fruit faster, you need to shape its crown. First of all, it is important to form the correct trunk.

An already grown trunk is cut at a height of 20 centimeters. It is necessary to leave well-developed buds, there should be at least 4 of them. Later, skeletal shoots will form from these buds, which will form the basis of the tree.

These shoots are called “first order shoots”, there should be 3-4 of them, they need to be located on different sides of the trunk. Each subsequent order of shoots is made shorter by 5 centimeters. The last will be the 4th branch order.

If you do everything correctly, your kumquat will begin to bear fruit much faster, and its appearance will delight you.

Transplanting a plant

Kumquats need to be replanted before shoots begin to grow, usually in mid-spring. However, kumquats growing at home need to be replanted no more than once every 2-3 years.

Replanting a kumquat involves transferring the earthen clod and rhizomes without damaging them. The drainage is completely replaced with a new one.

Possible gaps between the walls of the new pot and the earthen ball are filled with fresh soil. After this, you need to place the tree in a warm, dark place and moisten it well.

While the kumquat is standing there, its crown must be constantly sprayed with warm water.

Kumquat propagation

Like all citrus fruits, kumquats can be propagated using: seeds, cuttings, layering and grafting. Let's take a closer look at each type of reproduction.

In order for a full-fledged kumquat to grow from seeds, they need to be planted in a mixture of river sand and ordinary garden soil. You will be able to observe the first shoots after a month and a half.

Seedlings emerge with 4 leaves. When the plant gets stronger, it can be prepared for replanting. 2 weeks before the planned transplant, trim the plant's taproots.

Important! When cutting roots, the plant should not be removed from the ground..

If you don't trim the roots, they will curl and not grow in length. To trim the roots, use a sharp knife at a 45° angle and 10 cm from the plant. The “cut” seedlings are carefully removed from the pot and planted.

Plants grown from seeds do not retain the characteristics of their variety. For example, they begin to bear fruit after 10 years, or even more.

Kumquat cuttings

This is the main method of propagation when grown at home. You can cut kumquats throughout the year, but the best results are obtained in April.

By treating the cuttings before planting with a special growth stimulant, you will speed up the process of proper root formation, which contributes to the appearance of more cuttings and better development of the root system.

To cut cuttings, shoots are used that were harvested from fruit-bearing plants in the fall. Flexible and non-woody shoots are cut into 8 cm cuttings with several buds. The lower sections of the cuttings are sprinkled with charcoal to prevent them from rotting.

Drainage is placed at the bottom of the pot, covered with moss, and soil mixture is poured on top. 5 kumquat cuttings are planted in a pot at a depth of 2 cm. All this is covered with a glass jar and placed under diffused sunlight.

After 2-3 weeks, the cuttings form roots. Rooted plants can be planted in separate pots.

Reproduction by layering

For propagation by layering, a one-year-old shoot or branch is selected from a fruit-bearing kumquat in the spring. Above 10 cm, two ring-shaped cuts are made on the branch and the bark ring is removed.

Next, you need to trim off all the leaves that are above and below the cut. The plastic bottle is cut lengthwise in the center. On each half, 2 semicircles are cut out at the bottom in the center, the thickness should correspond to the thickness of the branch.

The bottle must be tied to a branch so that the cut of the bark is directly in the center of the container. The 2 halves of the bottle need to be fastened together and filled with soil mixture, periodically need to be moistened.

After 2 months, the kumquat below the bottom of the bottle needs to be cut off, carefully separate the halves of the bottle and transplant the resulting plant with an earthen lump into a separate pot. Place the pot where the kumquat grows in your house.

plant grafting

To be able to propagate kumquat by grafting, you need to have plant seedlings that have already reached a thickness of 1 cm at the base. It is also recommended to graft kumquat shoots onto the rootstock of grapefruit or three-leaved poncirus. Grafting with a butt shield or simple budding with the eye of a cultivated variety is often practiced.

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