This MK might not be at least another two weeks, but I see people are bored, they don’t come to visit, they don’t talk to me. I decided to force events, that is, to reduce the last operations, and so everything is very clear. At least to me. I hope you, my dears, too. It will look something like this. Forgive me, I did not stand the time of formation, therefore I show you without removing from the last disc.

So let's start by praying.

1. Here I found somehow at the end of summer, when I went mushrooming, in the forest an old fallen birch. With a knife, I pochikal so and so and cut out a rather interesting piece. He brought it home and began to clean it from the old cambium (the layer that goes behind the bark itself, that is, closer to the trunk). This happened to warm water with the addition of washing powder and soda. Cleaned with an old toothbrush. And here's what happened...

2. Let's zoom in, take a closer look, Interesting, in my opinion, texture. How are you? True, I had to add sharpness in Photoshop, otherwise all the photos turned out to be somehow muddy.

3. One trouble. The bark on the outside in these wrinkled places had such large outgrowths that, with all the desire, it would not have been possible to use this wonderful piece of material for the purpose for which I conceived.

4. And it was decided to fight this phenomenon with radical measures. He ground everything on sandpaper. If it were not for it in my arsenal of tools, I would probably have to work with a knife and sandpaper.

5. Then we cut out, as they say, a bootleg from a flea (the meaning of the phrase is completely off topic, but how the phrase itself is liked), but in our opinion, we cut off everything superfluous.

6. As you may have guessed, this will be the front side of our bracelet. On it we cut out two pieces of normal, that is, clean birch bark about 2 mm thick. This will be the underlay. Like this...

7. We clean from the white layer, we are not particularly zealous, it removes a thin layer.

8. We coat these two pieces with Moment glue (you can also use PVA, but the gluing process will take much longer) as shown in the photo (EXACTLY THIS). Then all the applied glue must be spread evenly over the surface. We stand for 2-3 minutes and connect these pieces together.

9. And fix them with paper clips.

10. After that, we coat our front layer with glue from the inside. We also coat the substrate on the yellow side with glue, hold, as I said, for 2-3 minutes and combine these layers. Rubber squares are used to ensure that paper clips do not leave marks on the front side.

11. Then we round the edges with scissors according to the template, grind the entire structure around the perimeter with sandpaper. And that's what happened.

12. After that, I decided to emboss on the wrong side of our workpiece. To do this, I took a rolling tool made by myself, it’s just a show off, you don’t have to roll if there is no suitable tool at hand. But if someone suddenly decides to roll-cover the surface with some kind of notch, then for these purposes you can use a metal tightening pin with a different thread pitch (what is it, ask the men), or some suitable bolt or large screw. In the end, you can use the clock gear, well, and how to do this is the topic of a separate lesson. (I’ll tell you a secret, I’m working on a video course, everything will be there, up to making tools with my own hands).

13. And the notch looks like this.

14. But in general, so.

15. Now heavy artillery enters the battle, a punch with a diameter of 3 mm, made from a medical needle, which is mounted in a handle and is equipped with a manually operated ejector. You can make your task easier. Buy a punch for the skin (it costs 700 rubles now, in my opinion). They can punch different holes, that is, different diameters. I just beg you not to buy Chinese, it will break in a week. I have bitter experience.

16. And with this very punch we punch (sorry for the tautology), holes at a distance of 2 mm from the edge and 2 mm from each other. I don’t recommend punching on weight, put, say, a piece of old linoleum. In my case, it turned out for a hundred holes. It all depends on the diameter of the bracelet.

17. Then we take a metal ruler, a blade and a piece of birch bark for cutting ribbons on the braid of the bracelet.

18. And we cut birch bark ribbons 1 mm thick and 3 mm wide. We cut them together with lentil windows (you see them in the photo with dark stripes). Then we will cut them out and work with clean ribbons so that there are no creases of birch bark on the bends during braiding.

19. We take our bracelet punched from all sides and begin to braid it. Here we will be helped by matches sharpened on a cone, with the help of which we will wedge a birch bark tape at the joints. We cut the first tape into a cone and put it into the hole from the wrong side of the bracelet. We apply glue to the place where the ribbon and bracelet come into contact, that is, glue into the hole (here it is PVA) and wedge it with a match for better adhesion of the glue. To apply glue, we will use a needle inserted into the tube from under the Chupa-Chups, or a rod from under a ballpoint or helium pen. This will serve as a pen for ease of use.

20. We wrap the bracelet with birch bark through the holes. Then, when the tape ends, we take another one, insert it into the same hole where the previous one ends, coat it with glue at the point of contact and wedge it with a match. After drying, the tip of the old tape is carefully cut flush.

21. We cut everything sticking out and get the next semi-finished product.

22. Now that the preparatory part is over (what were you afraid of?), it remains to form the bracelet itself. It will be detachable, that is, dress not through the hand, but through the wrist. We unclench it, put it on our hand, and it compresses like a spring, affectionately clasping your wrist. And for starters, we take a three-liter jar as a blank and wrap our workpiece around it. We fix all this splendor with a rubber band. Just like in the photo.

23. After a week of fixation in this position, we get the following ...

24. Then a two-liter jar comes into play.

25. Another tedious week has passed, and now a liter jar has come in handy. The formation process takes a lot of time, so do not blame me.

26. And now, after a certain period of time, we need a bottle of some kind of drink. It will serve as the last blank, after which the bracelet will be finally ready. The bottle is wrapped in a clean sheet of paper so as not to give rise to unnecessary conjectures and illusions. I simply don’t have time to wait further, I want to convey to you all the wisdom of the craft as soon as possible, use it to your health.

27. And for the curtain, a little professional secret. For the best formation of this product, it is necessary to observe the temperature regime. Or thermal shock therapy. It's not as scary as you imagine. You just need to heat the bracelet first (for example, pour hot, not boiling water, water into a jar). Let stand for half an hour, then drain the water, and put the jar in the cold if it is winter (balcony, cold corridor, etc.). You can use your long-suffering refrigeration unit for these purposes. The operation must be done several times. From the temperature difference, the bracelet acquires a special springiness and holds its shape well.

P.S. Absorb knowledge, dare, experiment, fantasize and you will succeed. Wish you success. See you in the new MK. It will be called "Making a chain of birch bark" (I hope).

Birch bark jewelry is not only beautiful, but also easy, convenient, and environmentally friendly! And most importantly, anyone can make them.

How to prepare birch bark for jewelry

In order to start weaving jewelry, the birch bark must first be prepared: stratified, cleaned of black growths, if possible, and cut into bast.

Bast - these are strips of birch bark of different widths, and we will weave from them.

What tools are needed to work with birch bark

An important tool for working with birch bark is a sharp knife "Job". You can make it yourself from a knife blade (you can use an old hacksaw), or purchase it at a hardware store. An awl, a ruler for marking should also be in the arsenal. I have not seen the name of the next instrument before, apparently, this is a very specific instrument that only birch bark people know - kochedyk. A long, thin spatula with a slight curve. It is important that the lower edge of the tool is not sharp, because it is used for filling birch bark ribbons in glueless weaving. You can see it in the photo below:

How to weave a birch bark necklace or bracelet

We will weave the necklace and bracelet using the same technology, so the difference will be only in diameter (head circumference, wrist circumference).

We measure the girth of the head (hands) and make a small allowance, because. when braiding, the product will become more voluminous and the inner diameter will decrease slightly.

We take a strip of birch bark (bast) with a length equal to two girths of the head (hand), plus a small allowance (1-1.5 cm) for the connection. The width of the strip is 1 cm. If you do not have the desired length of the bast, the birch bark strips can be glued together with PVA glue. At the same time, clean the ends of both strips so that when joined, their thickness is equal to the thickness of one strip. We wrap the prepared strip in two circles (two head circumferences) and glue the ends, not forgetting to clean them too. We got a two-layer hoop made of strips of birch bark 1 cm wide and with a diameter equal to the girth of the head plus an allowance of 1-1.5 cm.

We will wrap the hoop with stripes half as wide in width, i.e. 0.5 cm. The strip that will run along the middle of the hoop (horizontally) may be of a different color (darker or lighter than the main one). We wrap the strip with which we will wrap the tool inside the hoop (between two strips). We wrap the hoop vertically, alternating rows so that a horizontal strip of a different color is either on top of the vertical one or below it. It turns out a kind of chess. We hide the ends of the vertical strip between the two inner hoops that we braid. If necessary, we increase the horizontal strip, hiding the ponytails between the windings of the vertical stripes. Thus we get glueless weaving.

how to make a birch bark bracelet (master class)

In summer, all kinds of jewelry become very relevant - bracelets on the hand, they are woven from threads and beads. I propose to make a birch bark bracelet. It fits perfectly under summer clothes and is very pleasant for the body.
In order to make such a bracelet with our own hands, we need scissors, a ruler, an awl, a cylindrical object-form for gluing a bracelet with a diameter to fit the hand, sandpaper, a semicircular chisel, a metal cutter that I use to decorate the bracelet with embossing and PVA glue:

You will also need a wide elastic band:

First, from birch bark with a thickness of at least 1-1.5 mm, we cut out three strips measuring 17 by 2 cm:

Then we cut out the ornamental pattern of our bracelet using a semicircular chisel:

And we decorate the bracelet with embossing using a cutter that leaves beautiful stars on the birch bark and a blunt awl that leaves dots:

This is how the thread ended up:

You can make beautiful baubles by beating the natural pattern on birch bark:

Now you need to tint one strip of birch bark with stain or acrylic paint, this will be the substrate for the cut layer:

When the stain dries, we proceed to gluing the bracelet. Lubricate the top and bottom strip from the inside. It is convenient to apply glue to a threaded strip with a sponge:

Apply glue to the inner strip:

Now we collect the bracelet and wrap it around the shape:

Carefully, so as not to move the layers, we fix the bracelet with an elastic band:

We leave everything to dry for 12-24 hours. After that, the birch bark takes a form that remains forever. We unwind the bracelet and cut off all the excess:

Now it remains to grind the ends of our bracelet with sandpaper manually or on a grinding wheel:

We drill or pierce holes for ties with an awl:

Insert ties. I cut them out of leather:

That's it! :) Such hand-made bracelets-baubles will delight you for many years!

No one has yet invented for a dacha or a rural summer. But where to buy bast shoes and braided belts from now? Occasionally they are in souvenirs, but they cost no less than embroidered tablecloths and lace.

And birch bark belts are still quickly taken apart, because they can make the most ordinary outfit unique. Those who know how to use natural materials can always make the most inexpensive clothes "piece" copy, which is always appreciated.

Bast shoes from birch bark

Birch bark can be easily found in forestries and removed from felled ones. In our country, many villages still heat their houses with birch, so that almost every house can turn for birch bark.

We do not recommend removing birch bark from living trees, although experts say that this can be done without harming the birch. In this case, you must coordinate your birch bark harvesting with the local forestry.

Necessary tools for making jewelry from birch bark

To work with birch bark, you need the simplest and most adaptable. The most important of them:, groove, tucks, spatula, compasses and scissors, as well as pads and a vice.

A good penknife is suitable, and even better is the so-called Finnish, or bookbinding. The groove is made of strong or wood, or metal plate, preferably steel; but the metal groove should not be too sharp. A pazilo is needed to tear off the birch bark from the tree.

Pintucks are easy to make from wood; their length is from 4 to 8 cm, and the width is from 1/2 to 1/4 cm. They prevent the weaving from blooming. The spatula is made from wood. It should be very smooth (polished).

A spatula is used to equalize the deflections of birch bark strips during weaving. The compass is not often needed; it is needed to cut out regular circles from birch bark, apply accurate divisions, establish equal width of birch bark, etc.

The compass from the preparation is also suitable. Any scissors will do. They are needed for trimming the edges. Pads are also required for operation. They are useful both for gluing birch bark, and for leveling the birch bark sheets themselves and their surface.

The blocks are two even wooden bars on which a piece of birch bark is stretched; wedges are driven into the gap between the bars on both sides, with their help they pull the birch bark. Vices, bookbinding or carpentry, are also necessary for work from birch bark.

It is necessary to glue the birch bark with liquid carpentry glue. A cutter (a geared metal wheel on the handle) can be used for birch bark with any pattern. A punch can be useful for punching through holes. You can also use tools (templates) for embossing.

Where and how to get birch bark?

Best to rip off birch bark for jewelry from birch trees already cut down for something: the birch bark is then torn off very easily. It is not difficult to get it, but it is not so easy to tear it off correctly and not damage the tree at the same time.

For works from sheet birch bark, it is torn off in one way, for - in another. We recommend that you follow the following basic rules without fail. Do not damage the bark and the tree trunk itself, and do not rip off too large pieces of birch bark from one tree.

How to remove birch bark

Both of these harm the tree. Leaf birch bark can be torn off at any time of the year. This action should be performed as follows: having selected a part of the trunk, cut the birch bark with a knife (along and across) for several centimeters and bend the corner with a knife.

See if this birch bark is suitable for your work (both in appearance and thickness). If the birch bark is suitable, keep the incision further, lightly pressing the knife. Then take the groove and use it to tear off the birch bark further (across the trunk and from left to right).

The inner side of the birch bark depends on the time of its extraction. The most pleasant color birch bark has, if you extract it in the spring. It is at this time that birch bark is best suited for making beautiful things.

Autumn birch bark has a paler color on the inside. Summer birch bark is very soft and liquid, so it is unsuitable for making durable products. Birch growing in dry and stony places gives a denser and stronger birch bark than birch from damp places.

When the required amount of birch bark is torn off, fold it together (leaf to leaf) and take it home in this form. There, dry the harvested blanks for about two weeks, preferably in a cool place.

If the birch bark dries out, it must be moistened with warm, or even hot water. Lay the sheets on a level floor so that they are facing one another inside. Put boards on a pack of sheets, and put some weight on them - stones, weights, etc. This is done so that the sheets do not warp when they dry out.

Drying birch bark

For wicker work, birch bark is torn off differently, the optimal time of the year for it is the middle of summer. You can get birch bark at other times of the year, but, of course, not in winter.

It is better to choose dry and clear weather for this, so that the stripped tape does not warp from dampness. Birch should be chosen young, without branches over a long distance.

Good birch bark should be dense, like bark. The thickness of the birch bark and the ease of tearing it off are determined as follows: draw a longitudinal line 5-10 cm long with a knife and bend this piece.

Then you can immediately determine the quality of the birch bark. But keep in mind: the test must be done carefully so as not to spoil all the tape suitable for stripping. Since wickerwork requires birch bark in the form of a ribbon, the birch bark must be torn off with a spiral.

When you have made all the cuts, peel off the birch bark with a groove, holding it in the right; Pull the tape towards you with your left hand. The width of the tape should not exceed 3-4 cm. Wind the tape obtained in this way into coils.

At the same time, make sure that the outer () layer of birch bark always falls on top. The size of the skeins does not matter. Just try to keep each skein of tape the same (if possible) width.

It is possible to wind a tape of the same width, but of different thicknesses, into different skeins. This will facilitate the tapes of the desired thickness when weaving. Keep the skeins in a dry place. Products from birch bark can be varied: boxes, tuesas, scabbards, etc.

But for starters, perhaps, we will choose something that can pleasantly surprise our relatives and friends, and in case of success - show off our skills at an amateur, and maybe at a professional exhibition.

Making jewelry from birch bark

Woven birch bark can be used to make very beautiful and durable belts. It is made from 6 ribbons, or. It is necessary to weave with the help of tucks with which you are already familiar. When the belt reaches the required length, finish the weaving either with an angle, following the pattern of the beginning of the belt, or simply with a straight cut.

To do this, pass the ends of the tapes into the grooves in the opposite direction. After weaving, dip the belt in warm water, and then iron it with an iron to make it flat. Such belts are easy to make and colorful.

birch bark painting

This can be achieved by alternating birch bark ribbons of different shades - darker and lighter. It is more convenient to make a buckle or fastener from a birch rod bent in the shape of a ring.

Attach a ring to one end of the belt, and a stick to the other, which will be threaded into. You can start weaving bast shoes according to the pattern of the belt. The shape of the bast shoes depends on your discretion and.

However, remember: the narrower the ribbons, the more beautiful and stronger the birch bark shoes are. It is advisable to have a collapsible block on hand, which can be easily removed after finishing work.

A finished bast shoe, which usually fits both the left and right foot, because it is symmetrical about the center line. It remains only to attach beautiful ribbons to the heel (they can also be birch bark) that hold these comfortable shoes on the foot.

If you have not yet filled your hand, then train on simpler products. Try, for example, such weaving. belt corners different from others works from birch bark. This requires only four tapes. Such work goes much faster; it is much lighter than straight.

The shape of the finished birch bark can be slightly modified by wetting these in warm or hot water. For example, a box cover that is too small can thus be stretched to the desired size. Birch bark shoes must be pre-moistened, and then the desired shape is given to it on the foot or on the block.

A thing carefully made of birch bark does not need to be painted or varnished. However, birch bark perfectly accepts both color and varnish. It is necessary to dye birch bark in ribbons, before weaving; paints for paper fabrics are suitable for this purpose.

Lacquering should only be old, dirty and lost their natural color; cover them with ordinary light carpentry varnish. Before varnishing, carefully clean the item with a damp cloth to remove dirt, glue, etc.

Then apply varnish with a cotton swab or brush. If you want a darker color, varnish the item twice. Below are the instructions for making birch bark bracelet.

I decided to show you the process of assembling and forming a birch bark bracelet. I think you'll like it. The material is simply huge, as I have collected it from all nooks and crannies, with the aim of presenting it to your attention as clearly as possible. So, be patient, I'm starting...

1. Here I found somehow at the end of summer, when I went mushrooming, in the forest an old fallen birch. With a knife, I pochikal so and so and cut out a rather interesting piece. He brought it home and began to clean it from the old cambium (the layer that goes behind the bark itself, that is, closer to the trunk). This happened to warm water with the addition of washing powder and soda. Cleaned with an old toothbrush. And here's what happened...

2. Let's zoom in, take a closer look, Interesting, in my opinion, texture. How are you? True, I had to add sharpness in Photoshop, otherwise all the photos turned out to be somehow muddy.

3. One trouble. The bark on the outside in these wrinkled places had such large outgrowths that, with all the desire, it would not have been possible to use this wonderful piece of material for the purpose for which I conceived.

4. And it was decided to fight this phenomenon with radical measures. He ground everything on sandpaper. If it were not for it in my arsenal of tools, I would probably have to work with a knife and sandpaper.

5. Then we cut out, as they say, a bootleg from a flea (the meaning of the phrase is completely off topic, but how the phrase itself is liked), but in our opinion, we cut off everything superfluous.

6. As you may have guessed, this will be the front side of our bracelet. On it we cut out two pieces of normal, that is, clean birch bark about 2 mm thick. This will be the underlay. Like this...

7. We clean from the white layer, we are not particularly zealous, it removes a thin layer.

8. We coat these two pieces with Moment glue (you can also use PVA, but the gluing process will take much longer) as shown in the photo (EXACTLY THIS). Then all the applied glue must be spread evenly over the surface. We stand for 2-3 minutes and connect these pieces together.

9. And fix them with paper clips.

10. After that, we coat our front layer with glue from the inside. We also coat the substrate on the yellow side with glue, hold, as I said, for 2-3 minutes and combine these layers. Rubber squares are used to ensure that paper clips do not leave marks on the front side.

11. Then we round the edges with scissors according to the template, grind the entire structure around the perimeter with sandpaper. And that's what happened.

12. After that, I decided to emboss on the wrong side of our workpiece. To do this, I took a rolling tool made by myself, it’s just a show off, you don’t have to roll if there is no suitable tool at hand. But if someone suddenly decides to roll-cover the surface with some kind of notch, then for these purposes you can use a metal tightening pin with a different thread pitch (what is it, ask the men), or some suitable bolt or large screw. In the end, you can use the clock gear, well, and how to do this is the topic of a separate lesson. (I’ll tell you a secret, I’m working on a video course, everything will be there, up to making tools with my own hands).

13. And the notch looks like this.

14. But in general, so.

15. Now heavy artillery enters the battle, a punch with a diameter of 3 mm, made from a medical needle, which is mounted in a handle and is equipped with a manually operated ejector. You can make your task easier. Buy a punch for the skin (it costs 700 rubles now, in my opinion). They can punch different holes, that is, different diameters. I just beg you not to buy Chinese, it will break in a week. I have bitter experience.

16. And with this very punch we punch (sorry for the tautology), holes at a distance of 2 mm from the edge and 2 mm from each other. I don’t recommend punching on weight, put, say, a piece of old linoleum. In my case, it turned out for a hundred holes. It all depends on the diameter of the bracelet.

17. Then we take a metal ruler, a blade and a piece of birch bark for cutting ribbons on the braid of the bracelet.

18. And we cut birch bark ribbons 1 mm thick and 3 mm wide. We cut them together with lentil windows (you see them in the photo with dark stripes). Then we will cut them out and work with clean ribbons so that there are no creases of birch bark on the bends during braiding.

19. We take our bracelet punched from all sides and begin to braid it. Here we will be helped by matches sharpened on a cone, with the help of which we will wedge a birch bark tape at the joints. We cut the first tape into a cone and put it into the hole from the wrong side of the bracelet. We apply glue to the place where the ribbon and bracelet come into contact, that is, glue into the hole (here it is PVA) and wedge it with a match for better adhesion of the glue. To apply glue, we will use a needle inserted into the tube from under the Chupa-Chups, or a rod from under a ballpoint or helium pen. This will serve as a pen for ease of use.

20. We wrap the bracelet with birch bark through the holes. Then, when the tape ends, we take another one, insert it into the same hole where the previous one ends, coat it with glue at the point of contact and wedge it with a match. After drying, the tip of the old tape is carefully cut flush.

21. We cut everything sticking out and get the next semi-finished product.

22. Now that the preparatory part is over (what were you afraid of?), it remains to form the bracelet itself. It will be detachable, that is, dress not through the hand, but through the wrist. We unclench it, put it on our hand, and it compresses like a spring, affectionately clasping your wrist. And for starters, we take a three-liter jar as a blank and wrap our workpiece around it. We fix all this splendor with a rubber band. Just like in the photo.

23. After a week of fixation in this position, we get the following ...

24. Then a two-liter jar comes into play.

25. Another tedious week has passed, and now a liter jar has come in handy. The formation process takes a lot of time, so do not blame me.

26. And now, after a certain period of time, we need a bottle of some kind of drink. It will serve as the last blank, after which the bracelet will be finally ready. The bottle is wrapped in a clean sheet of paper so as not to give rise to unnecessary conjectures and illusions. I simply don’t have time to wait further, I want to convey to you all the wisdom of the craft as soon as possible, use it to your health.

27. And for the curtain, a little professional secret. For the best formation of this product, it is necessary to observe the temperature regime. Or thermal shock therapy. It's not as scary as you imagine. You just need to heat the bracelet first (for example, pour hot, not boiling water, water into a jar). Let stand for half an hour, then drain the water, and put the jar in the cold if it is winter (balcony, cold corridor, etc.). You can use your long-suffering refrigeration unit for these purposes. The operation must be done several times. From the temperature difference, the bracelet acquires a special springiness and holds its shape well.

Absorb knowledge, dare, experiment, fantasize and you will succeed. Wish you success.

I'll go straight to the second part with a prayer. Why pull the cat by the skinny tail.

Finished this bracelet this morning. So, neither shaky nor roll, from time to time, I worked with him for two months, or even more. I don't even remember how much. The technique of the surface of the bracelet is the same as that of the "Honey in the honeycomb" pendant. (I'm inserting this pendant specifically for clarity. And a short story about it)

As usual, the most constructive ideas come in a dream. This time, that is exactly what happened. I suddenly felt sorry for the passing summer (it flashed painfully quickly, or we didn’t notice it in the daily bustle), and I wanted to do something that would remind me of it, such a violent emerald and G-major nightingale. And as luck would have it, nothing comes to mind. Is the crisis creative? And with a restless soul and a brain substance gurgling in the right hemisphere, I go to bed ... And in the morning I get up with a ready-made solution, I dreamed of an interesting insertion and a way to bring the above into life. I have never done this before, a new technique in my work. I don't think it's the last one. And he called this thing "Honey in the honeycombs." Ate? Yummy? Here are my memories. Yes, and the summer does not seem to be offended by me, that I missed it, open.

And this is a little closer to the same topic. The texture seemed quite interesting to me, I don’t know how it will look to you. Only on an area of ​​​​5x5 cm, about three hundred holes with a diameter of 0.5 mm had to be punched. So the whole day went by. But here it is, it worked. Long live perseverance and patience. And the most interesting thing is that from different viewing angles, the surface looks completely different. I think going into the intricacies of manufacturing does not make much sense, and so everything is clear on closer inspection. Is it true?

So let's get back to our sheep.

During the manufacturing process, I photographed a little (also through the stump of the deck, but lazy, however). Some steps in the making have been skipped, but with a little deduction, I believe, my dear ones, you will restore the whole process. How to form a bracelet, you know. And how to punch holes in it, even more so. But I naturally left the tsimus itself. It concerns the surface finish of the bracelet. Let's start, I think with the tool...

We take such beautiful scissors (what kind of iron is not lying around in my birch bark arsenal) and we cut such “Amur waves” from birch bark.

These waves should contrast with the main surface of the bracelet. In the end result, we stick them on the surface in this order.

And this is where the fun begins. Hole punching. We take a punch with a diameter of 1 mm, cut out the time of 6-7 hours (and what did you think, you got into a fairy tale) and begin to dig these same holes. A fun activity, I must say. And there are a great many of them here. Who cares now count. I counted, it turned out to be 1512. How! But I also have a bracelet with a diameter of as much as 23 cm and a width of 4 and a half. With a smaller diameter, the holes will be disproportionately smaller.

And this is the back side. You can see how evenly the holes are arranged thanks to even rhombuses formed by these same "Amur waves".

After a long and dreary process of punching holes, there comes an equally tedious process of pulling birch bark ribbons into these holes. I previously toned them in one of my magic solutions in the color of a "dead swamp" (the name of the color was invented by me in the course of the story and has not yet been patented, so you can emboss). Initially, we pull the tapes along the surface (look closely, and everything will become clear to you: what and how).

Here's what happened after five hours of work (or maybe six).

You are already relaxed, I see, but that's not all. We begin the process of pulling the birch bark across the surface. I hope you still have five or six hours left. (By the way, its width is also 1 mm. And the thickness is somewhere around 0.3-0.4 mm. Although this does not matter. On the other hand, the thicker, the more embossed the pattern will turn out)

And here's the result "eight blacks". Where to put the ends, decide for yourself (cut to glue, but what am I teaching you).

We pay special attention to the back surface. To begin with, we coat all these "crosses" with PVA glue, and after drying, carefully cut flush with the blade. And this is done in order to then glue it to the surface of the bracelet without any problems. This time I formed my product on a bottle, immediately on glue. Keeps the shape well. Then he also pierced the side holes on the bottle, having previously placed birch bark, (the diameter is already 2 mm). Then he braided through these holes with a birch bark strip, first of a light tone, and then towards her, with a strip of a dark tone.

And so it turned out to be a wonderful miracle and a marvelous marvel. And the name was given to him "Memories of the Summer" (this is because he began to do it in the summer).

And this morning, my Natasha was getting ready to work at an accelerated pace, but I managed to persuade her to pose, that is, to put this product on her hand, for clarity. So, somehow, it almost happened.

And finally, at the end of the curtain, one more cheerful birch bark bracelet for your attention. This story was left from last spring, of course, I did not redo it.

Although summer is already on the nose red, but I still have a spring mood. I'm simply incorrigible, always in the mood (isn't it pathology?). And in the light of this high spirits, I depicted such a cheerful bracelet. Believe it or not, I decorated and arched for a whole week, and achieved an acceptable result. Next, there will be four more photos of the same bracelet, from different points of view, so that you can take a closer look at it. And there will be no comments.

Well, that's enough showing off, I won't bother you anymore. Let me just say that the bracelet is formed from three layers. The birch bark in the upper triangles is not painted, it has a natural range. And where I found it, there is no secret, everything is in the same forest. And how the bracelet is formed, there is a corresponding MK for this. For those who haven't seen it, take a look. Moreover, I showed this work during a break between walks around the Ivanovo Fair, so that you, my dears, would not be bored. And many people still ask, where are my works? Yes, here they are. I work slowly, without much stress.

On this pathetic note, I hasten to make a deep curtsey and bow.

As always, with planetary respect, the national master of the Ivanovo region Kutrynin A.V.