Most of the aesthetic defects in the appearance of women help to correct chemical peels for the face, the types of which have features. Some acid exfoliation procedures are recommended for young skin problems, such as acne or acne, for others, young age is a contraindication. Some peels with acid solutions help to achieve noticeable, but painful rejuvenation, while others act gently, have a cumulative effect and require frequent repetition. We will talk about the nuances of acid procedures, their benefits and frequency of use below.

Benefits of chemical peels

The mechanism of skin renewal with the help of chemical exfoliation is the same for all types of such peeling. Its basis is the application of natural or synthesized acids to the skin in a medical (weak) concentration. Acid solutions cause an artificial chemical burn of the thin skin of the face of I, rarely II degree.

Each type of chemical peel, even light for decorative purposes, destroys the top dead layer of the epithelium. Cosmetic compositions for anti-aging exfoliation penetrate even deeper - to the middle dermal layer, and peeling products for cardinal rejuvenation, whose action is comparable to surgical lifting, work extremely deep - at the border of the dermis and subcutaneous tissue. Injured by acid solutions, the skin tends to regenerate as soon as possible - peeling provokes a change in internal processes in the epidermis. The synthesis of collagen and elastin protein filaments is launched, oxygen and nutrition are supplied to the cells, blood flow is accelerated, clogged pores are cleared and become thinner.

The positive and quick effect of chemical peels is noticed by everyone who prefers them over mechanical or hardware exfoliation. For 2-3 procedures of acid rejuvenation, signs of age disappear from the face (mimic wrinkles and folds, rosacea, age spots), the consequences of dermatological diseases (inflammation, skin roughness after acne or acne, redness after infection with the subcutaneous mite Demadecosis), traces of injuries (scars , scars, striae). The same aesthetic results can be achieved with physical peels. But it will be longer, more expensive and, in the case of some procedures, more painful.

All types of chemical peels create stressful conditions for skin renewal, but in the end their effect is positive and justified. A course of anti-aging procedures helps to improve the complexion and smooth the skin, get rid of defects and increase the elasticity of the epidermis.

Chemical peels, regardless of type, have several common indications:

• problematic skin with increased greasiness, comedones and foci of inflammation;
• the appearance of age spots as a consequence of photoaging or age-related skin changes;
• mimic and age wrinkles, omission of tissues, flabbiness of the skin, change in the shape of the face;
• enlarged and clogged pores;
• tuberosity of the skin after dermatological diseases;
• scars and scars after injuries or thermal burns;
• vascular "asterisks" on the face (rosacea);
• preparation for other cosmetic procedures.

All types of chemical facial peels have several common contraindications:

• exacerbation of the herpes virus and chronic diseases;
• insulin dependence;
• pregnancy and lactation;
• wounds, abrasions, scratches and cracks in the skin on the face;
• taking hormonal drugs;
• individual intolerance to peeling components;
• oncology;
• adolescence;
• recent course of radiotherapy.

The choice in favor of a certain type of chemical peel should not be independent. The least that arrogance leads to is a violation of the protocol of the procedure and its inefficiency. Sometimes inappropriate peeling results in serious complications for the skin and long-term rehabilitation in a clinical setting.

Therefore, before deciding on a course of acid peels, consult a cosmetologist.

Before a session of chemical exfoliation, ask a specialist to perform an allergy test for the active ingredients of the drug. To do this, a drop of the product is applied to the inner bend of the elbow or the delicate skin behind the ear. If within 15 minutes an allergic reaction does not appear, peeling is suitable.

A variety of chemical peeling of the face depends on the depth of penetration of the acid preparation into the skin. Soft and sparing peels are classified as superficial, means of combating age-related changes and hyperpigmentation are referred to as medium peels, and radical chemical liftings are referred to as deep ones.

Easy peels: acting on the surface

Surface peels are popular and available to perform even at home. This gentle and safe exfoliation is recommended as the main treatment for young oily skin prone to acne, acne and UV pigmentation, as well as maintenance care for women over 35 years old.

The active components of superficial peels penetrate no deeper than 0.06 mm of the epidermal layer, so their action is considered gentle and less traumatic. This is enough to exfoliate dead skin cells, smooth out light mimic wrinkles and irregularities after acne, narrow and cleanse pores, and lighten pigmentation. Light peels do not cause significant damage to the skin: the procedures are painless and do not require long rehabilitation - the skin heals within 5-7 days.

Superficial types of peels do not require special skin preparation. To achieve a noticeable and lasting effect, cleansing should be carried out in courses of 6-8 sessions with an interval of a week. Surface treatments can be repeated every 3 months from late October to early April.

Superficial chemical peels, the types of which are determined by the main acid in the cosmetic solution, quickly penetrate the skin and stimulate the production of collagen and elastin fibers. Light exfoliating formulations may contain natural fruit acids such as malic, citric, tartaric, or other keratolytics such as salicylic, glycolic, lactic, mandelic, pyruvic, retinoic, azelaic, phytic, and other types of acids. These compounds are known as alpha hydroxy acids or AHAs, and they gently break down dead skin cells and promote skin renewal.

Very popular among superficial peels are:

• glycolic peel. The glycolic acid exfoliation procedure is valued by cosmetologists and their clients for its painlessness, effectiveness and minimal risk of side effects. The compound molecule is so small that it can penetrate the skin in seconds, causing the synthesis of protein filaments and the strengthening of intercellular membranes. Glycolic peeling transforms dry skin, moisturizing it and smoothing out the network of fine wrinkles. The skin becomes firm and elastic. Peeling with glycolic acid is a proven prevention of age-related changes and unwanted pigmentation;
• milk peeling. One of the weakest cleansing procedures recommended for those with sensitive skin. Lactic acid peeling helps to refresh the complexion and even out the first mimic wrinkles;
• almond peeling with phenoxyglycolic acid obtained from bitter almonds. A special indication for almond exfoliation is rosacea (the appearance of extensive redness, painful papules and pustules on the skin), concomitant signs of photoaging, acne and fine wrinkles.

Depending on the sensitivity of the skin and indications for exfoliation, the superficial peeling procedure lasts from 15 minutes to half an hour. During the session, the woman experiences a slight tingling of the face and a tolerable burning sensation. The next day after peeling, the skin turns red, but this reaction disappears within 5 days.

On the border of superficial and median peels, there are 3 types of mixed type exfoliation: retinoic (yellow) peeling, salicylic peeling and Jessener peeling. They are also well tolerated by the skin, but the components of the peeling agents penetrate deeper than the hardened epidermis.

• retinoic peeling is multi-component. The preparations for “yellow” exfoliation contain several acids, the main of which is a synthetic analogue of vitamin A. Retinol normalizes the production and distribution of melanocytes in the subcutaneous tissue, the accumulation of which provokes pigmentation. Therefore, retinoic peeling is considered an effective means of getting rid of brown spots on the face. The “companions” of retinol in the “yellow” peeling complement the aesthetic transformation: phytic acid slows down cell aging, kojic acid acts as an antioxidant, azelaic disinfects and relieves inflammation, and vitamin C brightens the skin and triggers collagen synthesis. As a result, universal retinoic peeling erases many diverse imperfections from a woman’s face;
• salicylic peeling dissolves the layers of dead epidermis, exfoliates old cells, has an antiseptic and antibacterial effect. Molecules of salicylic acid easily penetrate deep into the protective skin barrier and suppress internal infections;
• Jessner peel. This "youth cocktail" based on salicylic, lactic and retinoic acids is especially appreciated by Hollywood stars for its speed of action and minimal rehabilitation. For superficial exfoliation, the drug is applied to the face in one layer. This is enough to deeply moisturize the skin, improve its microrelief, narrow pores, lighten age spots and visually smooth out light scars.

Gold standard: medium peels

Median exfoliation works at a depth of 0.45mm of the epidermal layer, i.e. affects the keratinized epithelium and the papillary level of the dermis. Peelings of the middle type are allowed for women only after 30-35 years. They allow you to lighten serious age-related pigmentation, remove deep wrinkles, thin the skin, fight keratosis and sagging.

Median chemical peels are called non-surgical lifting: their effect is comparable to a hardware lifting of the face oval or reinforcement with gold threads. For the most part, these are uncomfortable procedures that cause pain to women with a high threshold of sensitivity. Sometimes such acid exfoliation requires topical anesthesia. Cosmetological manipulations are carried out with more aggressive high concentration acids, so the healing period of the skin after medium peels is extended up to 3-4 weeks.

A medium chemical peel session lasts from 20 minutes to half an hour. During the procedure, the burning sensation may increase. The next day, the skin of the face becomes red, tight and swollen. Dryness persists for 1-2 weeks. In parallel, peeling and detachment of the injured upper epidermis occurs. At this time, it is important to follow the rules of post-peel care, use wound healing creams and not remove the crusts. A month later, the skin is renewed and returned to normal.

Cosmetologists recommend performing medium chemical peels in a course of 4-6 procedures with an interval of at least 2 weeks. For the period of skin rehabilitation, it is better to take a vacation and recover at home. The ideal season for median exfoliation is late autumn or winter: periods of low solar activity. A maximum of 2 courses of serious acid peels are performed per year without damage to the skin.

• peeling with 35% trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is the "gold standard" of median exfoliation. Such manipulation is performed only in the cabin. Doing the procedure yourself at home is risky and can result in complications. TCA is an optimal anti-aging peeling that stimulates deep cell renewal and visual rejuvenation for at least 5 years. Preparation for it begins 2 weeks before the first procedure. The skin becomes thinner and loosened with special serums based on glycolic or retinoic acids. Categorical contraindications for TCA are dermatological diseases (for example, vitiligo), the tendency of the skin to form keloid scars and rosacea.

Acid lifting: deep peels

Deep chemical peeling for the face, the types of which are few and even prohibited for use in some European countries, experts compare with plastic surgery. Manipulations are carried out by a non-surgical method, but the components of peeling agents used injure the skin of the face no less than a scalpel.

Deep chemical exfoliation "removes" 0.6 mm of the epidermal layer almost to the beginning of the subcutaneous fat. The procedure is performed with aggressive phenolic acid and croton oil and, being dangerous, is performed only by cosmetologists with anesthesia in aesthetic medicine clinics.

Phenol, like a laser, destroys the entire epidermis and most of the dermis. The face becomes an open and painful wound, which takes at least six months to heal. Phenol peeling can be done only once a year and no more than 3 times in a lifetime.

Deep chemical peeling corrects the most complex and long-standing appearance defects: scars, scars, deep age wrinkles and old age spots. As a result of just one phenol procedure, the skin is rejuvenated, the oval of the face is tightened, and the result of exfoliation is preserved for decades.

The choice of a suitable chemical peel is best left to a professional cosmetologist. The appointment of exfoliation is usually based on indications, skin type, patient's age and health status, as well as their financial capabilities.

Chemical peeling is a radical, but the most effective method of rejuvenation and renewal of facial skin. How does it happen and is it possible to use such products at home?

The action of chemical peeling is based on the natural exfoliation of the upper layers of the skin due to chemical compounds that include various acids.

In fact, the renewal process is triggered by a chemical burn obtained during the use of specially selected compounds.

After using these products, the skin turns red, swells and flakes. By removing part of the dermis, peeling preparations stimulate the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid in the tissues, thereby increasing the tone and elasticity of the integument, leveling the relief, eliminating shallow wrinkles, scars and pigmentation.

Types of chemical peels

All products used for chemical peeling are divided into 3 groups based on their concentration:

1. Surface. This is a light chemical peel that affects only the upper keratinized layers of the dermis. The low concentration of acids in the preparations makes the procedure comfortable, gentle and painless. The effect of superficial peeling is hardly noticeable and short-lived, so sessions are required to be carried out in courses.
2. Median. More concentrated agents contribute to the destruction of the stratum corneum of the dermis. After a chemical burn, the skin begins to actively regenerate and is completely renewed in a week. During the rehabilitation period, it is necessary to observe a home regimen - this is due to severe reddening of the face and peeling of the dermis.
3. Deep. This complex procedure is performed in a hospital under general anesthesia. Highly concentrated preparations act on the deep layers of the skin, destroying them at the level of the basement membrane. The regeneration process takes a rather long period - up to 5 months, but after the procedure a long-term effect is noted.

Pros and cons

The procedure of chemical peeling has both positive and negative sides, and they depend mainly on the type of means used:

Type of chemical peel	Surface	Median	Deep
pros	it is permissible to carry out at any time of the year; no pain; there is no period of rehabilitation of the dermis; safe.	the result is visible in a week; positive dynamics persists from six months to 2 years; visibly rejuvenates and tightens the skin.	very efficient; eliminates scars, deep wrinkles, scars; the result is achieved in 1 procedure; positive dynamics persisted for several years.
Minuses	the result is noticeable only after a course of procedures; there is no guarantee of positive dynamics in solving serious problems.	soreness of the procedure; rehabilitation takes about a week; cannot eliminate deep wrinkles; the risk of pigment spots.	pain and aggressiveness of the procedure; long-term rehabilitation; noticeable boundaries between the updated and untreated areas of the dermis; the skin does not tan.

Most often, salons conduct sessions of median peeling: it harmoniously combines a noticeable result and a relatively short period of rehabilitation.

It is important to understand that chemical peeling fights only with problems that exist on the surface of the skin - it is not capable of eliminating its sagging and age-related severe loss of elasticity.

These procedures are quite dangerous, so an experienced dermatocosmetologist should carry out median peeling. The specialist will professionally assess the condition of your skin and select the optimal formulations for its renewal.

Indications and contraindications

The procedure for chemical peeling should be carried out strictly according to the indications. Each type of active agent has its own purpose: surface formulations act softer, and more concentrated ones are stronger and more aggressive.

Chemical peeling has the following goals:

• moisturizing the dermis;
• alignment of complexion and elimination of pigmentation;
• smoothing the surface of the dermis and eliminating wrinkles, scars, stretch marks and scars;
• increase in elasticity;
• elimination of infectious diseases of the dermis;
• preparation for other cosmetic procedures.

Since chemical peeling is a dangerous procedure, specialists take a responsible history taking to avoid serious complications. The use of medium and deep peeling products is prohibited in the following cases:

• defeat by the herpes virus;
• neoplasms on the skin (moles, papillomas, warts);
• irritation and damage to the skin;
• skin sensitivity;
• contact allergy to drug components;
• exacerbation of acne;
• condition after a course of radiotherapy;
• recent use of antiseborrheic drugs.

All of the listed contraindications are strict, and it is impossible to carry out the procedure if they are present. So, if your body is affected by herpes, and from time to time itchy formations appear on the mucous membranes and lips, inform the specialist about this, otherwise a strong relapse of the viral disease will occur after chemical peeling.

Used acids and popular remedies

Chemical peels contain various acids. They are included in the compositions for superficial procedures in a weakly concentrated form - up to 20%, for a median update - from 20% to 70%.

Chemical peels typically combine the following acids:

• trichloroacetic;
• azelaic;
• salicylic;
• dairy;
• phytin.

The most popular peels based on fruit acids (AHA) - they combine safety, affordability and high efficiency.

Different drugs are created to combat different problems. Manufacturers carefully select the components for their formulations, combining substances according to the desired purpose in different concentrations. So, salicylic acid has a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect and is included in preparations for anti-acne procedures, and azelaic acid is introduced into anti-pigment agents. Lactic acid helps to moisturize the skin, while retinolic and glycolic acids effectively accelerate cell regeneration.

Professional median peeling is most often carried out with Jessner's solution, this preparation includes TCA (trichloroacetic acid) and glycolic acid at a concentration of 50-70%.

Facilities

Cosmetology offers a wide range of products for chemical peeling, each professional has his own preferences in choosing the lines of preparatory, working and care products that are produced by the following brands:

• skin tech;
• Gigi;
• Mediderma;
• Algology;
• Kosmoteros;
• Holy Land;
• Arcadia;
• Dermalogica.

In addition to professional products that can only be used in salons, there are light superficial peels produced by well-known cosmetic companies. Such drugs can be used for home procedures.

Chemical peel at home

At home, it is permissible to carry out only superficial peeling - the use of concentrated preparations for median rejuvenation is possible strictly in a cosmetology center.

Superficial chemical peeling does not require special preparation of the skin. The procedure consists of several stages:

1. Cleansing the skin from decorative cosmetics.
2. Applying the product in one layer on the skin in the sequence forehead-chin-cheeks-nose.
3. Removal of the composition after the time specified in the instructions.
4. Applying a moisturizing mask.
5. Applying moisturizer.

A number of products for superficial peeling at home can be applied at night - in these preparations, the concentration of acids is relatively low, so even prolonged contact with the skin will not lead to chemical burns. There are also means of point action - with tampons treated with a working composition, applications should be made, applying them for a specified period of time to problem areas of the face.

Post-Chemical Peel Care

After home superficial peeling, the skin does not require special care, it is enough to use the usual moisturizing face cream daily. But after the salon procedure of the median action, in order to avoid complications, you should strictly follow the recommendations of the cosmetologist for carrying out care measures:

• limit time spent in the sun;
• use sunscreen;
• treat the skin with soothing lotions;
• use moisturizers regularly.

In some cases, cosmetologists prescribe antihistamines that help to quickly relieve swelling. At the risk of developing inflammation, anti-inflammatory ointments with corticosteroids are used.

A professional cosmetologist talks about mistakes that should not be made in the process of skin care after a chemical peel in the video below:

How often can you do

The permissible frequency of chemical peeling sessions directly depends on its type: superficial, weakly concentrated formulations can be used at least daily, but deep peeling is done only once in a lifetime.

Median peeling is usually done in a course of 4-6 procedures, while the interval between sessions should be more than a week. When using highly concentrated preparations, the procedure is performed once and is repeated no more than once a month.

The frequency of chemical peeling also depends on age: up to 30 years, one session is usually enough to solve existing skin problems and activate its renewal processes; after 30 years, experts recommend course therapy.

Photos before and after

Prices for salon procedures

The cost of one procedure in different salons is based on the type and type of chemical peel, as well as on whether additional products are used during the session - pre-peel and care.

• glycolic and AHA peels can cost 500-11,000 rubles;
• TCA peeling will cost from 1,100 to 20,000 rubles;
• salicylic peeling is estimated from 1300 to 24000 rubles;
• the popular Jessner peel, depending on the concentration of TCA, will cost 500-12,000 rubles;
• yellow peeling based on retinoic acid costs from 1200 to 24000 rubles.

Chemical peeling is a serious procedure that injures the skin, so it should be carried out strictly according to indications. To avoid unpleasant consequences, it is necessary to do it only in salons and medical centers.

The principle of action of chemical peeling is based on the potentiation of a controlled burn of varying degrees, depending on the characteristics and objectives of the procedure.

Purpose of a chemical peel

The key goal of chemical peeling is to neutralize various cosmetic defects - net and mimic wrinkles, age spots, post-acne scars, enlarged pores, comedones and other signs of fading or "problem" skin.

Damage to the epidermis is achieved by applying a special composition with a certain concentration of organic acids to the skin surface. Against the background of a kind of stress, skin cells begin to regenerate and proliferate. In the middle and deep layers, the process of elastin and collagenogenesis is launched - the production of young, strong and integral fibers of "youth proteins" - elastin and collagen. As a result, the skin becomes firmer, firmer and more hydrated.

Indications for chemical peeling

• Fine wrinkled type of aging;
• Superficial or medium-deep skin creases;
• Enlarged pores;
• Open or closed comedones (“black dots”, inflamed sebaceous plugs);
• hyperpigmentation;
• Hyperkeratosis (insufficient desquamation of the horny cells of the epidermis, making the skin rough and preventing it from breathing normally);
• "Stressed" skin (dull grayish or earthy complexion; irritation, thinning, tightening);
• Defects in the skin pattern;
• Increased sebum secretion;
• Ichthyosis (cracking and scaly skin);
• acne;
• Post-acne (atrophic / hypertrophic scars, dark congestive spots);
• Cicatricial changes in the skin;
• Striae (stretch marks).

Superficial chemical peel

Superficial chemical peeling is the most delicate and gentle of the three presented. It is used to lightly rejuvenate the skin of the face, neck and décolleté. Superficial chemical peels are performed using weak (10-20%) solutions of the following acids:

• Apple;
• Lemon;
• pyruvic;
• Dairy;
• Azelaic;
• Salicylic;
• Glycolic.

Superficial chemical peeling is classified as a weekend procedure. With proper preparation and post-peeling care, the face acquires a socially acceptable appearance already on the third day. By exfoliating on Friday, by Monday you will be able to return to work without any signs of facial damage (redness, swelling, hard crust, etc.).

The choice in favor of a particular acid is made by a cosmetologist based on the results of preliminary diagnostics.

Glycolic acid- one of the most popular agents for superficial chemical peeling. Differs in optimum penetrating power and hydration properties. Glycolic peeling is indicated not only for cleansing, but also for moisturizing the skin. The second effect is achieved due to the binding of water molecules in the intercellular space.

Salicylic acid It is mainly used to treat typically "problem" skin prone to clogged pores, acne and oily sheen. Salicylic peeling is often prescribed in the complex therapy of acne.

Azelaic (nonandioic) acid has keratolytic and antibacterial properties, which allows it to be used in the treatment of acne along with salicylic acid.

Lactic acid It has the most gentle effect on the skin, so milk peeling, unlike the vast majority of others, is acceptable even in the sunny season (the risks of post-peeling hyperpigmentation are minimized). The main function of milk peeling is to restore the natural hydro-lipid balance of the skin.

pyruvic acid preferred for patients with thin and sensitive skin. It protects it from fluid loss, seals and increases contractility.

Lemon acid Designed to fight pigment spots and brighten skin tone. Lemon peeling is ideal for combating photoaging.

Apple acid has astringent and drying properties, so apple peeling is suitable for professional care for oily skin.

Retinoic (“yellow”) is also conditionally referred to as superficial peelings, however, in its action it is comparable to the median one. The acid composition includes retinoic acid and auxiliary acids - ascorbic, phytic, azelaic, kojic. The components have a complex effect on the skin - they increase its turgor and elasticity, smooth the texture, tighten and strengthen.

With superficial peeling, only the upper layer of the epidermis is involved - acids penetrate to a depth of about 0.05-0.06 mm.

Medium chemical peel

Median chemical peeling covers the deeper structures of the skin - the entire stratum corneum to the spiny layer of the dermis and the surface of the basement membrane. The penetration depth of the solution is approximately 0.40-0.45 mm. This version of the procedure is more painful and traumatic than the previous one, but at the same time it is more effective, especially in the fight against age-related changes.

Median peels are traditionally carried out using trichloroacetic (30-40%) and salicylic (30%) acid, as well as combined solutions. Trichloroacetic acid acts on the skin relatively sparingly, without damaging immune cells, so the cover is restored faster. Despite the safety of the substance, it is possible to carry out median peeling only in a clinic or in the office of a professional cosmetologist, but in no case at home!

The procedure allows you to level such problems as linear and mimic wrinkles, dark and large age spots, cicatricial changes in the skin, including stretch marks.

A medium peel is followed by a complete rehabilitation of 7-10 days. During this period, redness and irritation of the skin persists, and closer to 4-5 days, a rather dense crust begins to come off. When using salicylic acid, there is abundant, deep and intense peeling with characteristic itching and discomfort.

After the procedure, the patient is required to take especially careful and competent skin care. She is in dire need of deep hydration and nutrition, as well as protection from ultraviolet radiation. During rehabilitation, it is better not to appear in direct sunlight, and then it is important to use creams and serums with a high SPF (minimum 30). Median peeling is carried out only in cloudy and cool seasons. The best season is late autumn or early spring.

Deep chemical peel

Deep chemical peeling is a rare procedure for modern practice. She found many alternatives, so cosmetologists resort to it rather in exceptional cases. It is an extensive burn of the epidermis, leading to the exposure of the papillary dermis. It is performed in a hospital under general anesthesia. It is characterized by high risks, therefore it requires special skill, experience and skills from the beautician.

The procedure is carried out using a phenol solution. Phenol significantly injures the skin - its effect is equivalent to a third-degree burn. Rehabilitation after phenol peeling lasts about 6 months. The effect lasts up to 3-5 years.

Deep chemical peeling is used to smooth out very sharp, loose and chronic wrinkles, furrows and folds, as well as rough hypertrophic (non-keloid) scars.

Algorithm for chemical peeling

Before any type of chemical peel, preparation is necessary. The beautician will consult you in advance on the subject of care that you will need to use for 1-2 weeks before the procedure. As a rule, it involves washing and toning the face with products with a low concentration of acids.

Peeling itself (superficial and medial) is carried out according to the following protocol:

• Make-up removal and skin cleansing;
• Determining the exposure time of the acid solution;
• Applying the solution to the prepared skin;
• Application of subsequent layers (if provided);
• Removing the acid solution from the skin;
• Treatment of the skin with emollients and soothing agents with a sun protection factor;
• Post-peel care consultation.

Post-peel care is prescribed to fix and prolong the results of peeling, as well as to protect against complications. The care option is selected by the cosmetologist, and the patient only needs to follow his recommendations. Tell the beautician in advance about your financial capabilities so that the care matches them, and you do not have to save on the quality of cosmetics. Please note that visiting saunas, baths, swimming pools and solariums will be banned for 3-5 weeks after peeling.

More perfect, controllable and safer than chemical. However, its cost is much higher, so the patient is free to choose the option of the procedure that is more suitable for him from a rational point of view.

Chemical peels are one of the most popular facial treatments. They are always relevant - at a young age to fight acne and oily skin, in mature age - to fight dryness, pigmentation, wrinkles and to prevent aging.

But not all peels are the same. And before venturing into a chemical peel, you need to figure out who he is and what he is eaten with.

In this post, we will find out what chemical peels are, how they differ from each other, who needs them and why they are so loved.

1. What is a chemical peel

Acids cleanse the pores and normalize the activity of the sebaceous glands, thereby reducing the oiliness of the skin and preventing the appearance of acne.

Some acids reduce the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme. This inhibits melanin synthesis and leads to skin lightening.

The pores are deeply cleansed, the work of the sebaceous glands is normalized, the fat content of the skin is reduced.

Acne, post-acne, closed comedones and blackheads disappear.

Increases elasticity and firmness.

Wrinkles are smoothed out.

Pigmentation spots lighten and disappear.

The appearance of the skin improves - it becomes smoother, softer, more tender, the complexion improves.

4. Types of chemical peels

Surface

They work on the surface of the epidermis, at the level of the stratum corneum.

The most common and painless. They can be done both at the beautician's and at home - depending on the means. The effect is cumulative, a course of procedures is required for a pronounced effect.

They are used for young skin for cleansing and solving specific problems.

Median

They work in the middle of the epidermis, affect the layers of living cells (basal, prickly, granular - up to the basal layers).

Cause severe peeling, redness. Requires a recovery period. They are made exclusively by a cosmetologist-dermatologist with a medical education. The effect is tangible and long lasting.

They are used to solve specific problems and fight age-related changes - post-acne, hyperpigmentation, facial wrinkles, stretch marks, scars, as well as in preparation for plastic surgery.

These are peels with TCA (trichloroacetic acid), 30% salicylic acid and Jessner peel.

deep

They work in the depths of the epidermis, affect all layers of living cells, up to the basal layer, partially damage the basement membrane (except for hair follicles).

Deep peeling is an operation. They are done exclusively in a hospital under anesthesia. The effect on the skin is comparable to a 3rd degree burn.

The rehabilitation period lasts up to six months. The effect is up to several years. They are used for radical correction of age-related changes - removal of deep wrinkles, as well as scars.

These are phenol peels and TCA peels in high concentration.

In our posts, we will not touch on medium and even deeper peels - this is the prerogative of cosmetologists. But we will talk with pleasure about superficial peels that you can do at home on your own. ☺

5. Indications

There are many indications for chemical peels. They help to solve a very wide range of cosmetic problems. That is why peels are so loved.

• Hyperpigmentation.
• Wrinkles.
• Dehydration.
• Dryness.
• Hyperkeratosis.
• Seborrhea.
• Acne.
• Post acne.
• Rosacea.
• Contegiosum mollusk.
• Scarring.
• Stretch marks.
• Prevention of aging.
• Preparation for mesotherapy and plastic surgery.

6. Contraindications

We must not forget that chemical peeling, even the softest and most superficial, is a serious cosmetic procedure that has a number of contraindications.

To avoid complications and discomfort, be sure to read the list of contraindications before starting a peeling course.

• Violation of the integrity of the skin (trauma - wounds, scratches, cuts, etc.).
• Invasive procedures performed less than 2 months ago (deep cleaning, mesotherapy, laser resurfacing).
• active inflammatory process.
• pronounced couperose.
• Frequent allergies.
• Pregnancy, lactation.
• Fever, cold.
• Any chronic and skin diseases in the acute stage, infectious skin diseases.
• Herpes in the active phase.
• Asthma.
• Hypertension.
• Oncology.
• Taking drugs that increase sensitivity to the sun, immunosuppressants.
• Prolonged exposure to the sun and a fresh tan.
• Moles with a diameter of more than 5 cm (peeling is not applied to them).

7. Factors affecting peel strength

• Acid concentration (from 2% to 70%).
• pH (from 1 to 4).
• acid used.
• Product form (cream, gel, liquid).

All 4 factors are interconnected and work in a complex.

The determining role in the “strength” of peeling is played by the ratio of % acid and pH. The higher the % acid and the lower the pH, the stronger the peeling. The lower the % acid and the higher the pH, the softer it is.

An AHA-based product with a pH of more than 4 stops exfoliating, but will actively moisturize.

Acids differ from each other in the size of the molecule, the depth of penetration and the "softness" of the work. For example, salicylic acid is strong, active and used in small concentrations. Whereas mandelic acid is very mild, does not cause sun sensitivity and can be used even on very sensitive skin.

The thicker the peel, the softer it is. A cream or thick gel will work softer than an aqueous or alcohol solution. Peels in liquid form penetrate deeper. In addition, it is more difficult to control the depth of penetration of water-alcohol peels than gel and cream ones.

Thus, for example, a 10% salicylic peel with pH 2 in the form of a water-alcohol lotion will act quite harshly and exfoliate strongly. And 15% almond peeling with pH 3.5 in the form of a thick gel will act gently and have a cumulative effect.

8. Why you need a neutralizer

Recall the post about pH.

Chemical peels are highly acidic. To normalize the pH balance of the skin after peeling and to minimize the risk of complications, a neutralizer is used. It contains alkali, which stops the action of acids, and additional components that soothe the skin.

9. Course

Chemical peels are carried out once a year during the autumn-winter period. Standard course - 10-12 procedures with a frequency of 1 time in 7-10 days (depending on skin type).

Superficial peels have a cumulative effect. You will see the maximum result after the completion of the course of procedures.

During the course it is possible:

• increased skin sensitivity (due to thinning of the epidermis);
• redness (may last up to 3 days);
• the occurrence of dryness, tightness, peeling;
• an increase in acne rashes (this is normal, their number gradually decreases and finally disappears).

10. Pre-peel and post-peel care

To achieve the best result and ensure maximum comfort, be sure to carry out pre-peel preparation and post-peel care.

Pre-peel preparation

Adapts the skin to the action of acids, evens out the upper layer of the epidermis, which ensures better and more uniform penetration of the peeling.

For preparation, within 2 weeks before the start of the peeling course, use cosmetic products with a small% of acids - with an acid content of 6-12% and a fairly high pH.

For AHA acids, the minimum effective indicators for a daily remedy are 5-8% at pH 3-4. For BHA acids (salicylic) - 1-2% at pH 3-4, for heavily soiled skin with a large number of comedones - up to 5% with a lower pH.

Post-peel care

Within 2 weeks after the end of the course of chemical peels, use the same daily products with a small% of acids as during the pre-peel preparation. This will consolidate the effect of the course.

Immediately after the peeling procedure during the course, use soothing, healing, regenerating, healing. This will help to avoid complications, soothe the skin, accelerate regeneration and saturate the skin with active ingredients as much as possible. Choose products with aloe, hyaluronic acid, algae, centella, arnica, chamomile, calendula, panthenol, lipids and vitamins.

During the course of chemical peels, in order to avoid the risk of pigmentation, be sure to use products with SPF protection, preferably with a factor of 20-30.

It can be a day cream, a sunscreen fluid on top of it, or decorative care.

Do not visit the solarium during the course and for 2-4 weeks after its completion.

Briefly about the main

A chemical peel is the exfoliation of the skin with various acids to cleanse and address a wide range of concerns.

Not all peels are the same. Some of them can be done at home without fear of complications, others can only be done by a professional cosmetologist or in a hospital.

Peelings are carried out in courses.

The strength of a peel depends largely on the concentration of acids, pH, the acids used and the form of the product.

Do not forget about the neutralizer, pre-peel and post-peel care for maximum comfort and best results.

Be sure to use products with SPF and do not rush to sunbathe immediately after the peeling course.

Want to know more about peels? Read:

Do you have any questions? Ask in the comments.

Pump up cosmetic literacy, stay with us and be beautiful.

See you on the air of LaraBarBlog. ♫

Having decided to write an article on the topic "Chemical peels", I did not doubt for a second that I would not do it alone, because in practice, cosmetologists perform superficial-median, median and deep peels, and superficial ones are performed by nurses in cosmetology. Therefore, my “right hand” Alexandra took an active part in writing this article.

Everyone knows that since 2009, the profession of “cosmetologist” has officially appeared in Russia, there has been a well-known division into “household services” and “cosmetology services”, hairdressing salons that offered “Botox injections” are a thing of the past. Now in medical centers providing cosmetology services, as a rule, cosmetologists and cosmetology nurses work. And it is no coincidence. The initial consultation, of course, is carried out by doctors, but then there is a “separation of powers”, all injection procedures are performed by cosmetologists, and procedures without breaking the skin are performed by cosmetologist nurses. These include all types of cleanings (including ultrasonic and mechanical), massages, cosmetic treatments, eyebrow and eyelash architecture, various options for epilation and depilation, as well as superficial chemical peels.

Chemical peel

Today, perhaps, there is no better procedure that simultaneously solves such a wide range of skin problems as chemical peeling. The properties of acids to renew the skin through its controlled damage suggest solving such problems as seborrhea and acne, scars, age-related skin changes (in particular, static wrinkles), hyperpigmentation of various origins, rosacea, etc. Is chemical peeling a panacea for all skin imperfections? Let's figure it out in this article.

Chemical peel- this is a controlled damage to the skin with the help of chemical agents in order to correct the aesthetic imperfections of the skin. As chemicals, preparations containing AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHA (beta hydroxy acids) are used. Among the AHA acids, the most popular are lactic, mandelic, glycolic, pyruvic. Among BHA acids, salicylic acid remains the favorite.

Chemical peels are classified according to the depth of exposure to superficial (the level of the stratum corneum), superficial-median (working at the level of the entire epidermis), median (exposure to the basement membrane with partial work at the level of the papillary dermis) and deep (to the border of the reticular dermis). It should be noted that superficial and medium peels are more often used in cosmetology. Deep peels (phenolic) are currently performed extremely rarely, due to the high toxicity of the drug (both for the patient and for the cosmetologist himself) and the development of hardware methods for correcting cosmetic deficiencies, which are not inferior in efficiency to deep peels, but have minimal risk side effects and complications.

Ask an expert

Natalya Anatolyevna, you have been a recognized expert in the field of chemical peels for many years. How has the concept of chemical peels changed lately and what place do they occupy in modern aesthetic medicine at the moment?

Peeling without destroying the basement membrane (it can be of different composition - chemical, enzymatic, retinoic; can be presented in different forms - lotion, gel, cream, mask, etc.) allows you to quickly and without consequences bring the skin into a presentable appearance, very gently and safely stimulate its renewal, is a relatively inexpensive procedure of choice for the vast majority of patients and should occupy a strong position in aesthetic medicine. More traumatic types of peels are also effective, but should be used less often and with more strictly verified indications. Over the past few years, I have only strengthened in this position, but the general situation demonstrates that at present, even for patients who do not have previous experience in non-traumatic care procedures, injection and hardware methods of exposure are increasingly being offered at the initial visit to a cosmetologist. And patients, motivated by the media and the fear of not being like everyone else, irretrievably late in the fight against aging, sincerely believe in the correctness of this approach. At the same time, a paradoxical picture is often observed - a lot of invasive expensive procedures have been done, but the condition of the skin itself leaves much to be desired. And I just want to do a light, very superficial peeling or mask and wipe the skin with a lotion.

Peeling choice

When choosing a peel, we will rely on the following criteria:

1. The concentration of active ingredients, that is, the percentage of acid input (the higher the concentration of chemical agents, the stronger the peeling effect and the higher the result, but at the same time the irritant ability also increases).
2. peeling pH. This indicator is often forgotten, but a change of just 0.5 can dramatically change the response of the skin. For example, glycolic peeling with a pH of 2.5, when applied correctly, will provoke a gentle exfoliation of horny scales, lighten pigmentation, stimulate the division of keratinocytes and enhance metabolic processes in the skin. However, glycol peels with a pH of 2.0 are no longer recommended for patients with subtype 1 rosacea, as they will provoke a vascular reaction.
3. Peeling texture: gel or in the form of a solution (water-alcohol). For gel, the penetration depth depends on the exposure time, the penetration is slow, respectively, there is less skin irritation. It must be washed off with water before neutralization. In water-alcohol penetration depth depends on the number of applied layers, it is necessary to wait for each layer to dry and carefully monitor the reaction of the skin, immediately neutralize if bright erythema or frost appears.

The depth of chemical peeling and the number of procedures are selected individually by a cosmetologist or dermatologist, and directly depend on the patient's health (history is carefully collected), age, skin condition and phototype. Recently, special attention has also been paid to the profession and lifestyle, which is associated with possible rehabilitation (peeling, redness, the appearance of a feeling of "tightening", etc.).

Skin phototypes: Fitzpatrick classification

There is a Fitzpatrick skin classification that describes the degree of skin pigmentation and the ability to tan. This classification subdivides the skin according to the risk factors for complications of chemical peeling. Fitzpatrick distinguishes six types of skin, taking into account both its color and reaction to the sun:

• I type. Celtic
  Soft skin, milky white, often freckled, red or very blond hair, and blue or green eyes. The formation of melanin in the skin is insignificant, sunburn is possible, tanning is practically not preserved (more often residents of Ireland, Scandinavia, Scotland. Example: Rene Zellweger, Nicole Kidman)
• II type. Light European
  Typical blondes. Light skin, few or no freckles. The hair is light brown, from light blond to gray-blond. The eyes are blue, grey, greenish. The tan does not fit well, a slight golden tint remains (approximately 70% of the European population. Example: Marilyn Monroe, Charlize Theron)
• III type. Dark European
  Skin color changes seasonally. In winter, the skin is light, has a high contrast with the hair. In the summer, when tanning, the contrast between the skin and hair is sharply reduced, the skin acquires a swarthy shade. Hair is medium blond to dark blond, medium brown to dark brown. Eyes from light brown to dark brown, gray-green, dark green (population of Kazakhstan, Central Asia. Example: Natalie Portman, Audrey Hepburn)
• IV type. Mediterranean or South European
  The skin is dark olive. Hair from dark brown to the color of bitter chocolate. The eyes are rich brown shades, the iris contrasts sharply with the bluish white of the eyes. The skin of this type quickly acquires an even bronze tan (representatives of Armenia, Italy. Example: Monica Belucci, Salma Hayek)
• V type. Indonesian, or Middle Eastern
  The skin is very complex with a yellow tint. Hair dark brown to black. The eyes are rich brown, closer to black (inhabitants of China, India, Korea. Example: Lucy Liu, Nicole Scherzinger)
• VI type. African Americans
  The skin is very dark (ethnic). Hair and eyes are as dark as possible. This type has the highest level of melanin (the indigenous population of the African continent. Example: Beyoncé, Naomi Campbell)

For our region, phototypes from I to IV are the most relevant.

Patients with type I and II skin and significant photodamage need constant sun protection before and after chemical peels. However, the risk of developing hypopigmentation or hyperpigmentation in these individuals is quite low. Patients with skin types III and IV after chemical peels are at greater risk of pigmentary dyschromia - hyper- or hypopigmentation - and may need pre- and subsequent use of not only sunscreen, but also whitening to prevent these complications. The risk of discoloration is not too great after a very superficial or superficial peel, but it can become a significant problem after a medium or deep chemical peel.

The use of peels: the pros and cons

Let us analyze in more detail the process of skin renewal, dividing its pros and cons.

The positive effect of peeling associated with effects at the level of the epidermis and dermis:

1. Chemical acids stimulate the division of keratinocytes, enhance the synthesis of signal molecules; the epidermis becomes more dense, elastic and uniform.
2. The growth of new blood vessels begins, which are necessary for the delivery of building materials, cellular elements to the area of ​​restoration work, as well as the removal of metabolites.
3. Under the influence of growth factors, fibroblasts are activated, which begin to build a collagen framework. This scaffold facilitates the movement of keratinocytes that restore the epidermis.

This process leads to smoothing of the skin, increasing its firmness and elasticity.

However, it is also important to remember side effects of chemical peels that arise due to non-compliance with post-peeling care or an incorrectly selected procedure:

1. Keratinocytes (the main cells of the epidermis, the surface layer of the skin), under stress, secrete substances that stimulate the formation of melanin, which can eventually provoke the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
2. The occurrence of persistent hyperemia (redness).
3. Exacerbation of a dermatological disease (most often in their practice, cosmetologists face an exacerbation of a herpes infection).
4. Scars (most often occur after median peels, for this reason, these techniques can only be performed by certified specialists).

The history of chemical peeling goes back over 3,000 years. Back in the day, the products of milk fermentation (lactic acid) were used by Egyptians to brighten their faces. In the 1980s, after studying the effect of trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and phenol on the skin, the first chemical peeling procedure was performed in the United States. In Russia, the procedure appeared relatively recently - in the late 90s, but today it is one of the most popular procedures performed in a cosmetology office.

Expert opinion