The process of formation of keratin, melanin and PH of the skin.
This complex process begins in the germinal layer and ends in the stratum corneum, where cells undergo numerous changes. Their cytoplasm and nucleus atrophy. Keratohyamine, produced in the granular layer, is responsible for the formation of sebum. In the transparent layer, where living epithelial cells approach the final period of "living" existence, keratohyamine is intensively replaced by keratin. At this level, the cells are almost completely dehydrated. Dehydration is accompanied by the process of keratinization. The stratum corneum contains about 10% water, compared to 70-72% water in the germinal and papillary layers. The formation of keratin is controlled by the activity of many endocrine glands that secrete hormones. For example, increasing the level of female hormones reduces the formation of keratin. Some other hormones, on the contrary, accelerate the formation of keratin.

The formation of melanin. Melanin is a high energy pigment. It is formed from many special cells located in the basal-germ layer, known as melanocytes. The formation and distribution of melanolin is influenced by external and internal factors. The melanin grains concentrated in the basal layer are then transferred to the outer layers of the epidermis. Under the influence of appropriate stimuli, such as solar training, they affect the color of the skin. Thus, sunbathing leads to the activation of pigment cells, in which melanin is actively released under the influence of sunlight. As a result, the skin acquires a swarthy, darker color. An active pH reaction of liquids or creams indicates their acidity or alkalinity. The pH scale contains values ​​from 0 to 14, neutral pH corresponds to 7. Acidity is any value below 7. A decrease in pH indicates an increase in acidity. Acidity is characterized by a sour taste, such as that of a lemon. Alkalinity is an alkaline reaction that corresponds to pH values ​​from 7 to 14. Increasing the pH increases the degree of alkalinity. Alkalis belong to a number of compounds that, when exposed to acids, can increase salts, turn red litmus blue, and have the ability to wash away fats. Neutrality. Neutral solution is a soft, chemically inactive solution, i.e. neither alkaline nor acidic. Although a neutral reaction corresponds to a value of 7 on a scale, the concept of "neutrality" is broader and implies a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 pH of the skin and its cover (mantle). The secrets of the sebaceous and sweat glands and the formation of keratin in the epidermis form an "acid mantle" that protects the skin from bacteria and dehydration, and also helps to maintain its normal condition.

Physiologically, the acidity pH of the skin tissue can vary significantly. The pH of the skin, being exposed to external factors such as solar radiation, the influence of cosmetics, as well as in severe physical form, affects the pH value. This indicator varies in different parts of the body. The pH of the inner layers of the skin corresponds to the pH of the blood and plasma, i.e. approximately 7.35, while in the outer layers of the epidermis, the pH ranges from 4.8 to 5. The pH of the stratum corneum of healthy skin is 5-5.6.

When caring for the skin, we should take care of the cover of the "acid mantle". Particular attention should be paid to different skin types - oily skin has a pH in the range of 7.5-8, dry skin has a pH of about 6.5. For oily skin, products with an alkaline reaction are desirable, while for dry skin, products with a slightly acidic environment are needed.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the line of devices.

Human skin contains water molecules, and therefore has its own acid-base balance (pH), which can vary depending on the condition of the human skin. In other words, the pH of the skin is the content of acid and alkali. “The pH of the skin is a kind of protection against harmful factors, which does not allow loading the local immune system,” explains Maria Sokolova, cosmetologist at the Essence Beauty and Health Center.

“The most important function of the acid-base environment is protection from pathogenic flora: acidity ensures the coordinated work of skin cells, control of microflora on the surface of the skin, and prevents the reproduction of pathogenic flora. In addition, the pH level affects the rate of renewal of the stratum corneum,” adds Taisiya Petrova, cosmetologist and esthetician at the Aging Control Aesthetic Medicine Clinic.

How to determine the pH level

In order for the skin to maintain the necessary moisture balance and to be highly resistant to infections and other external irritants, the pH level should be 5.5. As soon as there is a shift in one direction or another, skin problems begin. That is, dry skin is characterized by a balance of 3 to 5.5, which indicates a dominant acidic environment. Numbers from 5.7 to 6 are typical for oily skin, in which an alkaline environment prevails. “Determining that the acid-base balance has changed is quite simple: if the pH is too low, this will be indicated by factors such as skin peeling, severe dryness and tightness, itching, redness, and there will also be an unpleasant or even painful reaction when applying decorative cosmetics. An elevated pH level gives out oily sheen, rashes and enlarged pores, ”says Maria Sokolova.

There are many methods for determining the pH of the skin, and the most common is the use of indicators. “Indicators are litmus papers of various colors, which change their color depending on the acidity. The advantage of this method is that it is cheap, but accuracy cannot be expected. To more accurately determine the acidity of the skin, a pH meter is used - special equipment, ”explains Victoria Zhovtun, cosmetologist and dermatologist at the Open Clinic.

“In cosmetology rooms for determining pH, portable non-invasive electronic testers with an indicator or a glass electrode are used to determine the level of acidity in numerical terms - pH meters,” explains Natalia Frolova, dermatologist and cosmetologist at the Golden Mandarin Health and Beauty Center.

Why pH imbalance is bad and how to choose products

Deviations from normal acidity can be the cause or consequence of many serious barrier dysfunctions. “For example, a violation of the synthesis of lipids involved in the regulation of the aquatic environment and acidity leads to irritation of the skin, their dryness, and redness. And to the development of pathogenic microorganisms in them. These changes occur in psoriasis (here there is a deviation from the norm in the acidic direction), dermatitis and acne (here there is a deviation in the alkaline). For example, with acne, the pH of the skin is about 6 units, ”says Kristina Komissarova, cosmetologist at the Italian beauty salon Domenico Castello.

The prevalence of an alkaline environment in the skin leads to the multiplication of bacteria that can provoke acne. When the balance decreases towards an acidic environment, the skin becomes not just dry, but very dry. Such a dermis poorly retains fluid, suffers from dehydration, and becomes prone to microtrauma. Bacteria enter the skin through these open gates and can cause irritation and skin diseases.

To avoid skin irritation, it is worth using cosmetics with the same pH level as the pH of the skin. However, in practice this is not always possible to apply. “Most of the time, home care creams have a pH of 5-9 and can be used without much concern. There are many peels and creams with a pH of 1 to 5 that can harm the skin if used incorrectly, so such products should be used under the supervision of a specialist. Viktoria Zhovtun warns. - When using toilet soap, the acidity level of which is 9–11, magnesium and calcium salts remain on the skin of the face. This provokes peeling and the occurrence of allergic reactions on the skin. The properties of the cosmetics used depend not only on the pH value, but also on the content of useful components, water characteristics and microbiological purity.”

“In people with thin sensitive skin, the synthesis of epidermal lipids is impaired and the skin has a very thin stratum corneum that cannot perform its protective functions, so if a cosmetic product has a pH below 4.5, it will cause irritation and redness. In this case, you need to use products with a pH of 5.5. But for those who have oily and problematic skin, in order to normalize the acid-base balance, you need to take preparations with a pH of 4.0-4.5, and not 5.5, explains Natalia Frolova. - When choosing cosmetic products, it is not necessary to pay attention to the mark "pH balanced". It may not be, but if the drug is certified, it goes without saying. Certified cosmetic preparations go on sale that do not change the pH, otherwise they will bring tangible harm.”

About the need to use tonics

The statement that the cream cannot be applied without a tonic, since it is a conductor of cosmetics, is quite controversial. “The only obstacle that cosmetics encounters in its path is the stratum corneum (this is solved by exfoliation) and the small distance between the skin cells themselves, which does not allow large molecules to enter it.

“There are people who do well without toning and are absolutely satisfied with the condition of the skin, then you need to use vitamin C serum - it has an acidic environment and will even out the pH level after washing,” adds Taisiya Petrova.

You can do without a tonic. Initially, tonics were used to restore the pH of the skin after washing, as many cleansers contained surfactants, which are alkaline. Today, there are quite gentle cleansers available, and many of them do not contain soap at all. Therefore, they practically do not violate the acidity of the skin, and if they do, they are much softer and it recovers quite quickly on its own.

You have probably heard more than once that this or that remedy normalizes the acid-base balance. Its level is decisive for the health and beauty of our skin. Whether it is necessary to maintain it and how to do it with the help of cosmetics, Passion.ru experts say.

What is pH

“The secret secreted by the sebaceous and sweat glands of our skin, mixing with exfoliated epidermal cells, forms a protective film on the surface - a lipid layer. Its pH is considered to be an indicator of the acid-base balance of the skin, ”says Elena Monakhova, cosmetologist at TORI beauty salon.

In fact, pH balance is a number that reflects the condition and type of our skin. Normal healthy skin is characterized by a pH balance of 5.5 (borderline between acidic and alkaline environments), for dry skin - from 3 to 5.5, which indicates a dominant acidic environment. Numbers from 5.7 to 6 are typical for oily skin, in which an alkaline environment prevails.

A sharp shift in the pH balance in one direction or another is fraught with consequences for the health of the dermis. The prevalence of an alkaline environment in the skin and a pH balance above 5.7 (which is typical for oily skin) lead to the growth of bacteria that can provoke acne and dermatitis. Sebum begins to stand out more actively, pores expand, complexion becomes dull, skin tone worsens.

“When the balance decreases towards an acidic environment (at a level below 5.2), the skin becomes not just dry, but very dry. Such a dermis does not retain fluid well, suffers from dehydration, becomes very vulnerable, prone to peeling, microtraumas (kind of "cracks"). Bacteria enter the skin through these open “gates”, which can cause irritations and skin diseases, such as psoriasis,” explains Elena Monakhova.

The ideal environment for our skin is slightly acidic, which is exactly the pH level of 5.5. This "microclimate" is detrimental to bacteria and maintains a healthy balance.

Causes of changes in the acid-base balance of the skin

Skin pH: what it is and how to maintain it

The health of our skin depends on several factors that also affect the pH balance.

• Nutrition. Excessive consumption of sweet foods increases acidity, while spicy and canned foods shift the pH balance to the alkaline side. If you eat these foods all the time and have skin problems, reconsider your diet.
• Environmental influence. Dedicated to lovers of sunbathing without SPF protection. The sun's rays oxidize the skin, make it dry, draw out moisture, destroy collagen, stimulating premature aging.
• Age. During menopause, the skin ages rapidly - it becomes alkaline. The pores expand, the dermis becomes more comedogenic, dull, loses elasticity.
• Care. Improper care affects the health and acid-base balance of the skin. For example, washing with hot and very warm water changes the pH values. Also, the illiterate use of products with active substances in the composition affects the balance of the skin. These are, for example, lines with acids (salicylic, fruit), recommended for oily, problem skin. “The daily fanatical use of such products destroys the protective lipid mantle and dries out the skin, turning the dermis into a combination (oily with dryness), sensitive, prone to inflammation and premature wrinkles,” warns Mitrofanova Elena, cosmetologist of the SPA Territory salon. Therefore, a competent complex for home use, especially for problem skin, should be selected by a doctor.

When caring for your skin, have you ever wondered if it can independently withstand the aggressiveness of the external environment? Any woman will confidently answer such a question: "No, it's impossible." And it will be right, because a cotton swab after cleansing the face at the end of the day convincingly shows what the skin has to deal with day after day. We help it with cleansing, moisturizing, sunscreen and vitaminized creams, but we rarely monitor the level of protection that nature itself has given the skin surface. This - skin PH level, which carries valuable information about its condition, degree of pollution and damage by harmful bacteria.

What does skin pH balance mean?

The pH level of the skin indicates the threshold of the acidity of the skin on a scale and indicates the internal state of the skin.

For a normal skin type, the range of pH = 5.2 - 5.7 is typical, for oily skin - 4-5.2, for dry - 5.7 - 7, i.e. usually it should be in the range from 4 to 7. If the figure does not fall into this segment, you have been given a signal about the need for drastic measures to improve the condition of the skin. It should be noted at the same time that the acidity of different areas on the body can be different and differ significantly: on the hands it is usually higher, on the chest - less, in the eye area - closer to neutral numbers.

How to deal with the PH level of the skin?

You should know that acidic environment is considered normal for the skin. This is her protective layer. It should be cared for in such a way that the pH of the skin falls into the neutral level from 5.2 to 5.7.

But often, with our wrong actions, we ourselves upset the balance of skin acidity. How?

1. Washing with soap. Violation of the acid barrier by alkaline agents favors the penetration of pathogenic bacteria into the deeper layers of the skin, as a result of which the skin undergoes faster wear and aging. For this reason, even young girls can look much older than their years.

2. Washing with chlorinated tap water, which alkalizes the skin, reducing its acidity.

3. The level of acidic protection of the skin is significantly affected by ultraviolet radiation, temperature changes, household chemicals, sweating disorders, too hot water.

4. Improper skin care during adolescence can aggravate the problem of pH. In order to neutralize the work of the sebaceous glands, young people begin to use soap intensively, which in turn activates their work even more.

So that the listed reasons do not become a problem of acid disturbance, care must be taken to maintain it.

How to maintain the acid balance of the skin at a normal pH level?

1. Wash with distilled, mineral or acidified (lemon, apple cider vinegar - 1 teaspoon per glass) water.

2. Use for washing or water mixed in half with milk.

3. Use tonics, creams, emulsions with a pH level of 5.5.

4. Say "No" to alkaline soaps that destroy the skin's acidic barrier, leaving it vulnerable to germs, bacteria and hypersensitive to the environment.

5. Know your skin type, test on different areas of the body and choose the right skin care products.

6. Use as few chemicals as possible for the skin of the face, give preference to natural products or with a balanced pH level.

7. Always, before going to bed, be sure to wash off makeup.

How to measure skin pH?

There are special devices for determining the pH level of the SKINCHECK type, which are used mainly by specialists dealing with skin and hair acidity problems.

At home, it is best to take a test to determine the pH balance of the skin:

1.Determine its condition after cleansing:

a) soft and smooth

b) tight and dry,

c) seems to be still oily and needs additional cleansing.

2. How often do you need to moisturize your face during the day?

a) twice a day - in the morning and in the evening,

b) once

c) do not moisturize.

3. Does it happen that the skin becomes red, very dry and flaky?

a) there were no such cases,

b) rarely, but it was,

c) did not notice this.

4. Does it happen that after a night's sleep the skin looks worse than at the end of the day?

a) didn't notice

b) yes, with enviable regularity,

c) isolated cases.

Analyze your answers. If the first response prevails in them, the pH level is normal, the second is high, and the third is very low.

A normal level indicates proper care and a good acidic condition of the skin.

With an overestimated pH level, it needs additional moisture, is prone to rapid aging and premature wrinkling, and it is difficult for it to resist the environment.

With a low pH level, you overdo it with cleansing the skin and abuse peels, trying to get rid of excess oil. In this case, listen to the recommendations of experts.

But in any case, it should be remembered that over the years the skin becomes more alkaline. To neutralize alkaline reactions, it is necessary to maintain an acid balance, otherwise premature aging of the skin is guaranteed. Bringing the skin to a normal pH is not so difficult, you need proper care and good cosmetics. Pay attention to the labels where the pH level is indicated and use the tips described above.

Be beautiful, young and attractive!

The mysterious abbreviation "PH" means acid-base balance. The health of the skin directly depends on its level. The lipid layer on the surface of the dermis has certain indicators of acid-base balance. Normal PH is considered to be an indicator of 5.5 - this is the borderline state between an alkaline and acidic environment. If the PH level is above or below this figure, then this indicates skin problems. The prevalence of an acidic environment is expressed in a decrease in the indicator: PH balance from 3 to 5.5 is typical for dry skin. If the indicators are above the neutral value, then the alkaline environment takes over and the skin becomes oily.

Changes in the level of PH-balance leads to unpleasant consequences. The prevalence of an alkaline environment causes an increase in the number of bacteria on the surface of the skin, which, in turn, provokes the appearance of inflammation, acne and various dermatitis. Under the influence of alkali, the pores become enlarged. The tone of the skin is also significantly reduced, which makes it look dull.
A decrease in the PH balance leads to a significant loss of moisture, as a result of which the skin is put dry, cracked, peeling and redness appear on it.

Optimal for the skin is a slightly acidic environment, which is expressed in the cherished figure of 5.5. It is with this value of PH-balance that the skin can independently cope with bacteria and maintain the necessary level of moisture.
The level of acid-base balance can change under the influence of several factors. In order for the skin to be healthy, it is not enough to use good cosmetics. It is important to take comprehensive care of the skin.

So, let's see what factors can affect the PH balance.

Nutrition.
Nutrition directly affects not only your weight, but also the condition of the skin. The abuse of sweets leads to a shift in the PH balance towards an acidic environment. If you notice that your skin has become dry and shows signs of peeling, the first thing to do is to eliminate sweets and cakes from your diet.

Abuse of spicy and canned food can lead to a decrease in PH values. Acne sufferers need to seriously consider rethinking their daily menu.

solar radiation.
Fans of uncontrolled tanning can face unpleasant consequences for the skin, since the sun's rays can change the pH balance towards an alkaline environment. Have you noticed that after a few hours under the scorching sun, your skin feels dry and tight? All this is the result of a violation of the neutral level of acid-base balance. Therefore, experts strongly recommend not to sunbathe without.

And remember: the sun's rays are most active during the day, so this time is best spent not on the beach. If you care about your skin, then choose the morning and evening hours for sunbathing.

Age.
Unfortunately, with age, the level of PH-balance changes significantly towards an alkaline environment. Therefore, after 40 years, almost everyone observes some changes in the skin: it becomes dull and flabby, fine wrinkles appear, pores expand.

It is important to know about this age feature and take it into account when choosing.

Care.
To maintain an optimal PH balance, it is important to learn how to properly cleanse the skin. Washing with hot water is very bad for the skin condition. You need to wash with cool water with special products. It is better to refuse soap, because even those brands that are marked “PH - 5.5” change the ratio to the alkaline side. True, healthy skin quickly restores its natural balance even after washing with soap, but if your skin already has low PH values, this procedure can aggravate the situation.

It is important to remember that the level of acid-base balance of the skin directly depends on proper care. The inept choice of cosmetics can lead to a change in the environment of the skin. Creams and tonics must be chosen, taking into account the characteristics of the dermis. The use of products that are not intended for your skin type can significantly worsen its condition.
Care must be taken with special products, which include special active substances. Their uncontrolled use can upset the PH balance.

For example, product lines for problematic skin often contain various acids. These substances are quite aggressive and, if used excessively, can change the acid-base balance. As a result, the skin begins to peel off. Therefore, if you are faced with inflammation and acne, you should not self-medicate and try to apply special products as often as possible. This approach will not solve the problem, but only exacerbate it. It is better to contact a specialist who will select an individual care for you.