At the moment, the stand-up collar is one of the most popular types of collars. It was borrowed from shirts, which is why it is also called shirting. This collar can be found in tunics, dresses, sleeveless tops, and blouses.

Main types of stand-up collars

The main characteristics of stand-up collars are depth and width. The shape can be arbitrary and is determined by the length of the top cut line. Please note that the shorter the length of the line along the upper cut, the more tightly the stand-up collar will fit to the neck.

Based on the modeling features, the following types of racks are distinguished:

1. One-piece. In this case, the collar is part of the front and back. Thanks to the absence of a seam, the collar detail looks very impressive.
2. Cutting stands. The most common option. The cutting rack provides many styling options.

Regarding the shape, there are four main types of stand-up collars:

1. Rectangular. A regular flat stand-up collar that is the same width at the neck and at the highest point.
2. With a tight fit to the neck. This product tapers from the neck at the top. A good option for sewing classic blouses.
3. "Funnel". It is built following the example of the model described above, only it expands towards the top.
4. Cowl collar. This is something between a classic stand and a clamp. The product fits to the neck, lying in light folds.

How to build a stand-up collar

The creation of a stand-up collar begins at the final stage of sewing the product. To cut out a part, you need:

Sew on the collar

A master class on sewing a stand to a product involves the following steps:

The product with a stand-up collar is ready.

Stand collars are one of the simplest collars.
However, despite their simplicity of construction, stand-up collars are very diverse. This diversity is expressed in the width (height) of the stand, in the configuration of the top line, in the design of the ends, as well as in the degree of fit to the neck.

This group of collars can be divided into two subgroups:
1 - cut-off stand-up collars;
2 - one-piece stand-up collars with shelves and backs.

In this article we will look at several designs of this type of collar related to cut-off stands, which differ in varying degrees of fit to the neck.

In the first In this option, we will build a stand-up collar that is not adjacent to the neck.

The drawing of such a collar is made in the form of a rectangular strip.

We begin the construction by bringing the neckline into accordance with the chosen style. This means that after we have decided on the model of a dress, blouse, raincoat, etc., it is necessary to deepen, widen or change the shape of the neckline, if this is provided for by the style of the selected model.
We draw a new neckline and measure its length using the front and back patterns. This can be conveniently done using a flexible ruler or a centimeter placed on the edge.

The ideal option is when you specify the neck line during fitting, correct it if necessary, and then measure.
In our example, we widen and deepen the neck by about 0.75-1cm.

And let's start building the collar.

Draw a right angle. We denote the top by point O. From point O to the right we lay off a segment OA equal to ½ the length of the neck, measured from the patterns of the front and back. In our example, this value is 20 cm, and you set aside your value and place point A.
The desired stand height is set vertically from points O and A (for dresses and blouses on average 3 - 5 cm; for raincoats and jackets it can reach 10 -12 cm or more). We will take 4cm as an example and place points O1 and A1 respectively.

Connect points O1 and A1 with a horizontal line. That, in fact, is the whole construction.

There are some nuances left.

If, according to the model, the ends of the stand are shaped at right angles, then the upper collar and collar can be cut out in one piece in the form of a single strip. In this case, the top edge of the post will have a fold rather than a seam.

If there is a fastener in the middle of the shelf, or the model requires that the ends of the stand overlap each other and fasten, then in this case we increase the length of the collar by the width of the side (or by the width of the fastener). This is done as follows. From points A and A1 to the right we set aside the width of the side 1.5-2 cm, put points A2 and A3 and connect them with straight lines. The final contour of the stand-up collar will be indicated by the letters O, A2, A3, O1.

When making patterns for the upper collar, do not forget to add 0.2-0.3 cm in the transverse seams and along the top seam to create a piping, but if the collar is one-piece with a collar - only in the transverse seams. See fig.

In the second option, consider a stand-up collar adjacent to the neck.

We begin construction in the same sequence as in the first option. During the fitting, we clarify the shape of the neckline, adjust if necessary and measure the length of the neckline.

Draw a right angle. We denote the top by point O. From point O to the right we lay off a segment OA equal to ½ the length of the neck, measured from the patterns of the front and back. In our example, this value is 20 cm, and you set aside your value and place point A.

From point O upward we set aside the height of the stand (for dresses and blouses it is taken on average 3 - 5 cm). We will take 4cm as an example and place point O1.

From point O to the right we set aside 1/3 of the distance OA and place point C.
From point A, draw a vertical line up and put 1.5-4 cm on it, put point A1.
The greater the distance AA1 (the greater the bend of the stand), the more the upper edge of the stand will be adjacent to the neck.
From point A1 up, set aside a distance equal to segment OO1 or another provided by your model, and place point A2.

We connect points C and A1 with a smooth curve. The final stitching line of the stand passes through points O, C, A1.
We shape the upper edge of the stand by connecting points O1 and A2 with a smooth curve parallel to the stitching line OCA1.

From point A1 at right angles to line CA1, draw a straight line until it intersects with line O1A2 and place point A3.
The ends (corners) of the stand are designed in accordance with the style of the product. In our example they are rounded.

If there is a fastener in the middle of the shelf, or the model requires that the ends of the stand overlap each other and fasten, then in this case we increase the length of the collar by the width of the side (or by the width of the fastener). This is done as follows. From points A3 and A1 to the right, parallel to the center line of the rack, we set aside the width of the side 1.5-2 cm, put points A4 and A5 and connect them with straight lines. The final outline of the stand-up collar is formed with the letters O, C, A4, A5, O1.

I remind you. The upper collar pattern along the outer contour should be 1-3mm larger than the collar pattern. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This is done so that the stitching seam does not peek out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. to form a edging along the top and transverse seams of the rack.
Therefore, first copy one part of the collar from the main drawing clearly along the line, this will be the collar.

And then, on a separate sheet of paper, enlarge this pattern by adding the required amount along the outer contour - this will be the upper collar.

The variety of collars of this type is achieved both through the design and through the use of various types of finishing. We are preparing a separate section about this, as well as about processing technology.

Follow the site news and you will always be up to date.

Good luck! Valentina Nivina.

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A stand-up collar is a vertical stitched or one-piece piece that forms the neckline of a garment or knitwear product. A harmoniously selected collar improves perception and implements the stylistic features of the entire product.

General typology of collars

Collars are classified according to the principle of design and appearance. The main classification divides sewing collars into groups.

• Flat or turn-down (without stand).
• Standing (vertical stand along the neck).
• Standing-turn-down (stand with fly-away).
• Jacket type (added with lapels).
• Modified.

fashionandme.ru

The classic textile stand-up collar is constructed from the main parts: the upper collar and the collar (inner part). It is used to decorate various necklines: closed, decorated with a cutout or decorated with a clasp.

oasisamor.org

According to the principle of construction, they are:

• one-piece (cut together with the main piece of clothing);
• sewn into necklines;
• combined.

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Modeling is the creation of various options based on a basic design using various techniques.

Whatever method of creating a collar is chosen, the principle is the same. It is built after creating and modeling the base of the structure and the neck. Important criteria for constructing a collar are the shape of the neck of the product, its depth and width. In some cases, the shape of the neck is repeated as the line of the lower cut of the stand, the seam connecting the parts.

The shape and appearance of the collar are determined by its length along the set-in seam, the outer edge and the bend of the bottom cut. The shorter the outer length, the closer it is to the surface of the neck.

vogue.com

It is enough to consider the modeling of a stand-up collar in cut-off, one-piece and combined forms.

The basis for constructing and modifying collars is any design of the bodice of a shoulder product - for example, a blouse with a semi-fitting silhouette. The type of neckline depends on the designer’s idea, but not directly on the silhouette of the product.

Classic cutting stand

The basic stand is a collar of simple design, which is a rectangular strip piece that shapes the neck.

The cutting stand is the basis of all collars; design is not difficult. The length of the sewing seam always matches the length of the neckline. The appearance of the collar and the shape of the neck depend on the designer’s idea and the manufacturability of the materials used.

For a better fit to the neck of models of shirts and jackets with semi-fitting silhouettes, the part of the rectangle structure that coincides with the cut of the front neckline is built with a slight bend.

kroikashitie.ru

Steps to build a simple collar

1. Draw the base of the collar, where the short side is the height of the stand in the finished form, and the long side is the length of the neck, including the width of the side to the edge of the stitching. The measurement must be taken from the base of the bodice.
2. Place 1/3 of the neck length to the right in a straight line. Next, bend the line in an arc to a height of 2.5-3.5 cm. The fit in the neck area depends on the angle of the arc.
3. Construct the height of the collar of the shelf by placing a perpendicular up, equal to the height of the stand in its finished form.
4. Design the corner shape according to the model. It can be sharp, elongated or rounded.
5. The collar is constructed by duplicating the upper collar.

Cowl collar

A collar of the “collar” type can be not only a one-piece drapery of the shelf, which is also called a “swing,” but also a set-in stand-up collar.

Construction of the “yoke” stand

1. Widen and deepen the neck according to the design of the model.
2. Construct a rectangle by laying horizontally half the length of the neck removed from the base. Vertically fix 2 heights of the rack in finished form.
3. The collar-collar is cut in the form of a rectangular strip, which is then folded in half. When cutting, the warp thread of the fabric runs at an angle of 45 degrees. This cutting method helps to create drapery and a beautiful plastic edging of the neckline.
4. Before stitching, fold the piece in half along the long side. Duplication and strengthening are not required.

One-piece stand

The one-piece stand is used in blouses, jackets, and coats. This type of rack is constructed in two ways.

• One-piece collar parts along with front and back. The shoulder lines continue in the side sections of the post.
• The collar is cut in one piece only with a flange, and from the back side it is sewn into the neckline as a separate part.

The procedure for modeling a one-piece collar of the first type

1. On the basic design, close the chest dart by moving it to the waist or moving it to the shoulder section. This way, get a clean line of the shoulder slope in the neckline area for further work.
2. Based on a design or technical drawing, expand and deepen the neckline along the back and front. Approximately for the stand of a dress or jacket adjacent to the bodice, it is enough to widen the line by 1-1.5 cm, deepen it by up to 1.5 cm. Design the change with a smooth line.
3. Construct perpendiculars at the corners of the neckline/shoulder section. Set aside the height of the stand in its finished form - for example, 4 cm. It is recommended to increase the height of the stand by 0.5 cm if its height is less than 3.5 cm for a better fit and to give a smooth shape to the entire contour.
4. Draw a line for the edge of the shelf side according to the model.
5. Extend the edge of the bead to the top edge of the post.
6. Transfer the shoulder dart of the back into the collar to create volume in the area of ​​the shoulder blades.
7. Based on the front pattern, construct the collar trim and facing from the back side.
8. Check the mating of the parts at the side seams: when connecting the corners of two parts, they should fit in a straight line with a common angle of 180 degrees.

fashionlib.ru

High stand, one-piece with shelf and back

For consideration - the principle of constructing a one-piece high stand based on a wide neck. A wide stand requires thick suit or coat fabrics, reinforcement of parts with non-woven fabric, duplicating materials. As a rule, the outer edge of such a collar goes in a smooth line to the edge of the side.

1. Expand the base of the neck to 2 cm along the shoulder line, deepen it at the back to 1 cm.
2. Connect the shoulder point and the middle point of the back. This will create auxiliary lines.
3. Transfer 1-1.5 cm of the chest dart solution into the neckline, and temporarily transfer the rest of the solution to any other place.
4. Determine the back shoulder dart at the neckline cut. This is done to expand the volume at the top of the bodice and neckline.
5. Line up perpendicular lines to the auxiliary ones at the corners of the shoulder seams and in the center of the shelf to the height of the stand - for example, 5 cm.
6. Along the middle line of the back, mark the height of the stand + 0.5 cm = 5.5 cm.
7. Outline the upper contour of the collar in accordance with the designer's technical drawing.
8. Check the mating of the side sections of the collar.
9. Construct the facing of the collar and lining, which depend on the design of the product. The stitching seam for the internal parts coincides with the side seam.

There is also an option for constructing a stand, which is cut out as a single long piece, but with a shelf, and has a seam that coincides with the center line of the back.

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Its difference from previous designs is that the length of the upper edge of the collar lengthens due to a change in the angle of the set-in part. With this cut, you can achieve a good fit of the stand on the side sections and on the back of the product.

Stages of building a rack

1. Move the chest dart from the neckline to the side cut or waist.
2. Change the necks by widening by 1.5 cm and deepening by 1.
3. Connect the points of the middle of the shelf and the shoulder point, creating an auxiliary line.
4. Extend the auxiliary line towards the back by a length equal only to the length of the back neck.
5. From the last point obtained, draw a perpendicular to the stitching line by about 1 cm. By increasing this value, you can get a larger angle of bend of the collar and build a longer outer contour of the part.
6. Specify the stitching line for the collar with a bend. Its length should be equal to half the length of the neck.
7. Construct a perpendicular, setting aside the finished height of the stand from the back side. The average comfortable stand height for a woman's jacket varies from 3.5 to 5 cm.
8. Draw a line for the upper contour of the collar with a transition to the edge of the side.
9. Correct the mates of all aligned parts.
10. The collar and collar form a single part, matching the contours of the upper main part of the collar and the one-piece collar.

In stand-up collars, as in turn-down collars, the stitching line is of fundamental importance. For a better fit and fit when changing planes of the torso-neck, the collar is constructed in the form of a curved line.

Modeling stand-up collars allows you to create various shapes and combinations of vertical options. Depending on the artist’s idea, the design is built on a regular or modified neck. The joint cut lengths are always equal to ensure a perfect knot fit.

In modern fashion, a stand-up collar is associated with oriental national costume or a strict uniform with a closed high clasp. Both the clothing of medical workers and the military are decorated in a similar way. Its relevance in everyday clothing depends on fashion trends. However, one-piece and set-in stands are taken as a unique part of the “brand DNA” by modern designers of personal brands of the same name: Thierry Mugler, Armani in the Collezioni, Giorgio Armani lines, etc.

Collars are very varied in shape. They usually consist of two parts: visible - departure and invisible - racks. In this case, the stand can be either cut-off or one-piece with a flyaway. The stand and takeoff are separated by an inflection line.

The collar is connected to the product by a stitching line. Its length is equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back. The stitching line can be straight, concave or convex, so depending on its curvature, the collar fits more or less to the neck.

If the stitching line has a concave shape, then the collar only fits slightly to the neck, a straightened or straight line increases the degree of fit of the collar, and a convex line provides maximum fit.

To draw a collar drawing, you need to know not only the length of the stitching line, but also the amount of rise in the middle of the collar. We select it according to the model depending on the degree of fit of the collar to the neck.

For high-stand collars, take smaller values, for flat-lying collars with a low stand, take larger values.

The neck line in products is formed either along the line of the base of the neck, or widens or deepens depending on the model features. The widening of the neckline in the area of ​​the shoulder seams, its deepening at the back and front ensures that the designed collar lags behind the neck.

Pattern of a turn-down collar adjacent to the neck

2. From point O horizontally lay a segment equal to the length of the neckline of the front and back (measured along the product from the middle of the back to the middle of the front) minus 0.5-1 cm (this is a coefficient, the value of which depends on the curvature of the line of sewing in the collar; a smaller value is selected when straight line of stitching, more - with a curved line).

3. Up vertically from point O, the amount of rise in the middle of the collar is plotted (from the table): OB = 2-4 cm.

4. Connect straight points B and A, divide the segment into three parts. The division points represent O 1 and O 2.

From O 1, a perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is set aside.

5. Using a smooth line, draw the line for sewing in the collar through points B, 0.5, O 2, 0.2, A.

6. Collar width along the back: BB 1 = 8-10 cm (according to model).

The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upward from A to segment BA: AA 1 = BB 1 = 8-10 cm.

7. Connect straight line B 1 and A 1 and extend it to the right by 3-6 cm (the amount of protrusion of the corner).

A 1 A 2 = 3-6 cm.

8. From the middle of segments B 1 and A 1, restore upward a perpendicular measuring 1-1.5 cm.

9. Using a smooth curve coming out from point B 1 at a right angle to segment OB 1, form the take-off cut of the collar through points B 1, 1-1.5, A 2.

10. Connect straight line A to A 2

Pattern of a turn-down collar with a cutting stand

Thanks to the detachable stand, such a collar ensures a good fit of the product on the figure. First, a collar with a one-piece stand is drawn, then the stand is cut off from the collar. The collar and collar stand change - the length along the line of their connection decreases. As a result, the collar fits closer to the neck and looks better than a turn-down collar with a one-piece stand-up collar.

1. In the drawing of the basic base of the product, expand the neckline along the shoulder line by 1 cm; deepen in the middle of the front by 1.5 cm, in the middle of the back by 0.5 cm.

Draw a new neck at a right angle to the middle of the back.

On the new front neckline, mark the point where the side is ledged at a distance of 1 cm from the middle of the front towards the armhole.

Measure the length of the new front and back neck from the middle of the back to the shoulder point.

2. Draw a horizontal line along which the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm is set to the left of the starting point O.

3. From point O, move up:

• collar stand height – 3.5 cm,
• collar cut-off height – 4 cm,
• position of the collar stand inflection line – 0.5 cm,
• collar width – 5.5 cm.

4. From point A, put 0.7 cm up and from the resulting point, put 3.5 cm to the left.

VA 1 = 3.5 cm.

5. Through A 1, draw a vertical upward onto which to mark an arc from B with a radius of 10 cm.

BB 1 = 10 cm.

6. Design the sections of the collar and stand in accordance with Fig. The cut line of the stand begins at a distance of 3 cm from point B.

7. Draw cut lines on the collar and stand.

8. Cut the collar along the seam line connecting the collar and collar stand. Make cuts from the collar stitching section to the collar flap section.

9. Place the sections of the collar and stand along the cut lines on top of each other by 0.3 cm at the joint seam sections. Along the midline, the collar and stand-up should also be narrowed.

Pattern of a shirt-type collar with a one-piece stand

1. Construct a right angle with the vertex at point O.

2. From point O, lay a horizontal segment equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back minus 0.5 cm.

OA = neck length - 0.5 cm.

3. From A to the right, set aside the size of the collar shoulder, which is equal to the width of the half-skid (the allowance for the fastener on the product).

AA 1 = 1.5-2-2.5 cm

4. The amount of rise in the middle of the collar: OB = 2-4 cm.

5. Points B and A are connected by an auxiliary line, which is divided into three parts. The division points represent O 1 and O 2.

From point O 1, a perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is set aside.

From the middle of the segment between points O 2 and A, a perpendicular is drawn down, on which 0.2 cm is laid.

The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A 1 by 0.3-0.5 cm.

6. Draw up a line for stitching the collar through points B, 0.5, O 2, 0.2, A, 0.3-0.5.

7. The size of the collar stand: BB 1 = 2.5-3.5 cm.

8. Through A, a perpendicular upward is restored to straight line OA, on which a segment equal to the height of the stand is laid: AA 2 = BB 1 = 2.5-3.5 cm.

9. Shape the protrusion of the stand with a rounded curve.

10. Collar width in the middle: BB 2 = 7-9 cm.

11. From B 2, draw a horizontal line to the right. Its intersection with a vertical line drawn from A is designated A 3 .

Line B 2 A 3 is continued to the right 1-4 cm and placed in B 3.

A 3 B 3 = 1-4 cm.

12. Connect straight line A 2 with B 3 and extend it upward. On it from A 2 set aside 7-15 cm (the length of the corner).

A 2 B 4 = 7-15 cm.

13. The segment B 2 A 3 is divided into three parts and the right division point is connected by a smooth curve to B 4.

Pattern of a shirt collar with a cutting stand

1. Draw a horizontal line along which to put the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm to the right of the starting point A.

AA 1 = neck length - 0.5 cm.

2. From A 1, a perpendicular is restored upward, on which 2-4 cm are laid.

A 1 A 2 = 2-4 cm.

3. Connect A straight to A 2, extend it to the right by 2-2.5 cm (allowance for half-skidding).

A 2 A 3 = 2-2.5 cm.

4. Section AA 2 is divided in half and a perpendicular of 1 cm is restored downwards.

The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A 3 by about.5 cm.

Draw a smooth curve for the stitching line of the stand through points A, 1, A 2, 0.5.

5. Collar stand height: AA 4 = 3-4 cm.

6. From A 2 and A 3, perpendiculars are restored upward to the segment AA 3, on which 2.5-3 cm are laid.

A 2 A 5 = A 3 A 6 = 2.5-3 cm.

7. Connect points A 4 and A 5 with an auxiliary straight line and from the middle of the segment restore a downward perpendicular of 1 cm in size.

8. Points A 4, 1, A 5 are connected by a smooth curve, and the protrusion of the rack is designed with a rounded line.

9. The line for sewing the collar into the stand is designed with the same bend as the upper cut of the stand.

From A 5 draw a horizontal line to the left, which is the axis of symmetry.

From B up, lay a segment equal to A 4 B.

BB 1 = A 4 ​​V.

Connect point B 1 with a straight line to A 5, divide the segment in half and restore a perpendicular of 1 cm.

Connect B 1, 1, A 5 with a smooth curve.

10. Collar width: B 1 B 2 = 4-5 cm.

11. From B 2 draw a horizontal line to the right, its intersection with the vertical drawn from A 5 is designated B 3.

12. From B 3 in a straight line, set aside 1-5 cm.

B 3 B 4 = 1-5 cm.

13. Connect straight line A 5 with B 4, extend it upward and put 9-14 cm on it from A 5.

A 5 B 5 = 9-14 cm.

14. The segment B 2 B 5 is divided into three parts and the right division point of a smooth curve is connected to B 5.

Pattern of a shirt collar with a high cutting stand

The high stand of this strictly shaped collar is fastened end-to-end at the center front line with hinged loops and buttons.

1. Make the necessary changes to the neck on the drawing of the basic base of the product as shown in example 2.

Measure the length of the new front and back neck from the middle of the back to the middle of the front.

2. Draw a horizontal line along which the value of the length of the modified neck of the product is set to the left of the starting point O.

3. From O, set aside 4.5 cm upward - the height of the collar stand, then set aside 4.5 cm upward - the height of the collar rise and 5.5 cm - the width of the collar rise.

4. From A, set aside 2.5 cm upward and from the resulting point B, draw a cut line for stitching in the collar stand.

5. At a right angle to the segment OB, draw the middle front line of the collar 4.5 cm long (the height of the stand at this level).

BB 1 = 4.5 cm.

6. Form the sections of the collar stand as shown in the figure.

7. From B 1, set aside 0.3 cm to the right along the upper edge of the stand. From this point, draw a horizontal line to the left 1.5 cm long, and from the last point draw a vertical line up.

8. Design the collar sections in accordance with the drawing.

Good afternoon our dear readers!

In the next modeling lesson, we will look at one of the most interesting and extensive topics in design - collars.

To start modeling collars, we need to have (Fig. 1). To do this, there is no need to perform calculations and build it using rulers and a pencil - just go to the main page of our website, select “basic dress pattern” and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly create your individual pattern, you can even print it on an A4 printer. Instructions on how to do this are on the page.

Let’s start our “immersion” into the topic of modeling collars with the simplest and most understandable - stand-up collars.

All stand-up collars are built in the same way, sequentially, they just have different values ​​and line configurations. Collars can have rounded or straight ends, overlap each other and be modeled end-to-end, more or less adjacent to the neck. The clasp can be located either at the front or at the back.

Let's now look at the construction of the stand-up collar as on a green blouse (Figure 2a).

To build a stand-up collar, you need to measure the length of the neck of the back and front. We get a specific number (for example 20 cm). Then subtract 0.5 cm from this value and plot this value along a straight line. To ensure that the stand does not move away from the neck, we raise the front angle by 3-4 cm (the larger the value, the closer the stand will fit to the neck). Now set the desired height of the stand (3 cm). And we draw the smooth lines of our stand-up collar. Don't forget to keep the height of the stand constant! The blue reference notch separates the front and back of the collar - when sewing the stand collar you will line it up with the shoulder seam.

Figure 2b shows a drawing of a stand-up collar like on a blouse with an ornament.

The sequence of drawing the collar remains the same. In a straight line, we set aside the length of the back neck minus 0.5 cm. We raise the front corner by 2-3 cm. We set the height of the stand according to the model - this value is arbitrary (4-6 cm). And we draw a beautiful stand! Also, don’t forget to check the height of the stand.

You can often see sweaters and coats with a one-piece stand. This collar fits well to the neck due to the transition of the darts into the stand-up lines.

As shown in Figure 3, we will initially set the width of the side (this is the amount by how much one part of the shelf will overlap another). Usually this is about 2 cm for a central fastener (buttons in one row as in the photo) and 4 cm for the so-called double-breasted fastener (two rows of parallel buttons). To prevent the collar from cutting into the neck, you need to widen the neck of the front and back by 1-1.5 cm and deepen it by 0.5-0.7 cm. Connect the resulting points with lines (red).

We decide on the height of the stand. In the example with a one-piece cut stand, the height of the stand gradually decreases - the largest value is deposited along the middle seam of the back 5-7 cm, along the shoulder section it is already 4-6 cm. Along the middle seam of the back we set aside the height of the stand along the continuation of the line, and in the area of ​​the shoulder seam, draw perpendicular to the red auxiliary lines. We understand that the line of transition between the stand and the shoulder seam should be smooth, so we adjust the line by cutting off the corners a little (green lines). The final step is to draw out the top cut of the stand, rounding it in front.

Now it's time to turn flat collars. Also one of the easiest to build.

Let's pay attention to the jacket in the first photo. Initially, we need to transfer the shoulder dart on the back and the chest dart on the front into the armhole line - this way it is much more convenient to draw a flat collar. Now we place the back piece on the shelf, extending 1-1.5 cm along the shoulder section. We decide on the width of the collar and draw it directly on the folded parts (blue line)! Along the middle back seam we set aside the largest value (5-6 cm), a little less along the shoulder seam (4.5 -5 cm) (Figure 4 and 5).

Stand-up collars. Probably each of us has some item with such a collar. Most often they can be found wearing shirts. To simplify sewing, the collar is made with a one-piece stand.

Let's start drawing a stand-up collar like on a blue blouse. As in stand-up collars, we initially draw a straight line for the length of the neck minus 0.5 cm. From one edge (where the middle back seam will be) to set the required bend of the bottom line of the collar, we set aside 3-4 cm perpendicularly, then the stand-up value (2. 5 – 3 cm), and the so-called “back width of the collar” (5-7 cm). To draw the front corner of the stand-up collar, set aside 5 cm to the left and about 9 cm up (the values ​​may be different - it depends on the height of the stand and the width of the rise you have chosen). And we try to follow the pattern, draw out the collar!!! The stand can be either cut-off or one-piece (Figure 6).

Shawl cut collar. These collars are very impressive and are not labor intensive compared to jacket ones. The upper collar is cut together with the collar, which greatly simplifies the whole job. So if you want to sew a jacket for the first time, we recommend starting with this model.

Pay attention to the configuration of the lines on the last two models of jackets - we see clearly prominent corners. This type of shawl collar is called apache

Let's make a model design of the shawl collar as in the first model. First, let's set the width of the side to about 2-2.5 cm (Figure 7). Now, based on the model, you need to determine the depth of the cutout and place point x. We expand the neck of the shelf (and back) by 2.5-3 cm - we get point a. Then, in the opposite direction, set aside 4 cm - put point b. We connect x and b with a line and continue this straight line a little to the top. The resulting line is called the collar inflection line (red). Now we measure the length of the back neckline and, using a compass from point a, make a notch (point c) on the inflection line of the collar. The segment ac is equal to the length of the back neck.

To determine the position of the lower point of the middle of the collar (point d), from point c, tangentially, we plot the amount of the collar’s ​​offset plus 0.8 cm. (For example: the offset width is 6 cm, then the segment cd = 6.8 cm). We put point d. Now we connect points d and a with a smooth line, end the line at the neck - we get the bottom cut of the shawl collar.

Set aside the width of the shawl's flap perpendicular to the lower edge of the collar (6-7 cm).

The last step is to draw a smooth line for the top cut of the shawl collar (green line) from point x to the middle seam.

Now let's figure out what parts we finally got (Figure 8).

Picking. We need to draw an internal hem line to which the lining is sewn (blue dotted line), draw it in a straight line, at a distance of 3 cm from the midline, and then with a slightly convex line and end at the shoulder seam, at a distance of 3-4 cm from point a. On a separate sheet of paper we transfer the part along the green line, then from point a along the shoulder seam (it is important that there is a right angle in the area where the hem transitions into the back facing (Figure 8a)), along the inner and outer hem lines (blue solid and dotted lines) .

The lower collar in shawl-type collars is cut off. Also, on a separate piece of paper, we transfer the upper part of the collar (green lines) bounded by a blue dotted line.

The front is copied completely, only without the lower collar section.

And we saved the most interesting for last!

Jacket collars. Such collars are made of four parts - lower and upper collars and two stand parts. Sometimes the racks are made one-piece. The depth of the neckline varies - the first button can be located above or below the chest level, or completely go down to the waist. The width of the lapel is also varied - from very narrow to covering most of the front. The jacket type collar is a very important element. Such a collar must be made with special care, otherwise the appearance of the entire product will be ruined.

Let's make a model design of a jacket-type collar as on the latest model of a jacket made of black fabric with a white print. The first steps of construction are very similar to a shawl collar - we draw a border 4 cm wide (if the fastener is double-breasted) or 2-2.5 cm wide (for a central fastener). We expand the neck by 1-1.5 cm, we get point a. To determine the position of the collar inflection line, set aside 1.5-2 cm to the left and place point b. We decide on the desired depth of the neckline and draw the bend line of the collar. From point a we make a notch with a compass, the radius (segment ac) is equal to the length of the back neck - we put point c. Then from point c, tangentially, we plot the width of the collar at the back plus 0.8 cm. We get point d. Connect points d and a with a smooth line. Now, at point d we restore the perpendicular to line dа and on it we set aside, first, the height of the stand (2-2.5 cm), then the width of the collar (4-5 cm). (Figure 9 and 9a)

And now we will need to draw the departure lines of the collar, flap and lapel. To understand these concepts, pay attention to Figure 11.
To more clearly imagine how the collar will look in the finished product, let’s draw it on the right side on the front detail (blue lines). The depth of the lapel is about 5 cm, the width is set to 7 cm. The base point of the opening is 3 cm down from the neckline along the inflection line of the collar. After we like the configuration of the lines of our collar, we will reflect it relative to the inflection line (green lines). It is most convenient to do this using tracing paper.

Now all that remains is to draw out the entire stand. We draw the upper cut 0.5 cm below the inflection line, leaving a width of 2 -2.5 cm (blue line).

Figure 10 shows all the resulting parts:

• Picking. The shawl collar is drawn similarly. Dotted line at a distance of 4 cm from the middle of the shelf.
• Collar (lower and upper). Copied completely with stand.
• Shelf. We translate everything, just without the collar.

The topic of collars is voluminous, varied and quite complex. So, if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask them at