In the upcoming autumn-winter season 2014-2015, designers have prepared a palette of a wide variety of coat solutions for every taste. The models presented in the collections amaze with the variety of silhouettes, styles, styles, textures, and colors. However, as always, several of the most striking trends can be identified. We, as beginners (and maybe already quite experienced) fashion designers, are primarily interested in shapes and silhouettes. Perhaps we’ll dwell on them in more detail.

One of these areas is all kinds of ponchos, capes and capes. Moreover, in a wide variety of styles: ethnic, minimalism, and what about the fabulous mischievous foxes from Dolche&Gabbana! In general, if you don’t have a poncho yet, you definitely should. I think it won’t be difficult for regulars of our modeling lessons to create one for themselves, by analogy with a children’s poncho, based on an “adult” basic pattern.

Another super-current trend is “robe” coats, including those with a wrap, collars that, together with the side, form cascading tails, etc.

Double-breasted coats are also a favorite this season, with some subtly supporting the military look.

The green coat from Versace in the previous photo looks doubly relevant not only thanks to the double-breasted fastener, but also to its straight silhouette. The rectangular shape is a new trend that is likely to remain at its peak in the coming fashion seasons. This silhouette often serves as an excellent backdrop for placing all kinds of enlarged accents - lapels, pockets, collars, etc.

If we continue to discuss silhouettes, cocoon coats will also look trendy this fall. Close to an oval shape due to seamless or simply very wide sleeves, they look cozy and enveloping. This also includes another trend - the so-called “oversized” coats, the voluminous silhouette of which is created so casually, as if you were simply wrapped in a coat several sizes larger than yours.

And, of course, the classic fitted silhouette is a timeless classic and is also present in the collections of the coming season.

You, of course, have already noticed that designers are boldly experimenting with the shoulder line and coat sleeve. The rectangular silhouette we have already mentioned requires lengthening the shoulder line. The oval silhouette uses a recessed armhole. Note that such experiments this season are carried out mainly in the direction of increasing volume in the shoulder girdle area. Sleeves of complex shapes are created on the basis of raglan, kimono and become another fashionable accent. Here are some more examples of similar creations.

Now that we are quite savvy in the topic of fashionable women's coats, it's time to introduce in more detail the model-heroine of our today's lesson. Low-cut (but still not like baggy oversized coats) armhole, elongated shoulder line, scissor pleats on the skirt - this model is worthy of you sewing it! This is also a great opportunity to take a closer look at the designs of the armhole and sleeve cap and how to model them.

So, let's start modeling. Here is a technical drawing of our model:

Today we will model based on your own coat base pattern. Very soon you won't have to waste time making this pattern yourself, and you can have your own coat base pattern in minutes! Because in the near future we will have a coat pattern generator on our website! In order not to miss this event, subscribe to the newsletter or add to the groups "in contact" or facebook.

Take all necessary measurements carefully and, if necessary, ask someone to help you. Fill out the resulting measurements on the online generator page and get a pattern like this:

You will also need a one-seam sleeve pattern.

A coat pattern differs from a dress pattern in the large allowance for a loose fit, which also takes into account the so-called increase for the “package of materials” - that is, for the thickness of all layers of materials in the product. We took as a basis the pattern of a coat with a semi-fitted silhouette. However, from the technical drawing and photo we see that the coat has sufficient freedom in the chest area, that is, a large increase in the half-circumference of the chest. And we will achieve this freedom by expanding the pattern in the armhole area. But let's talk about everything in order.

Modeling the top of the coat

To begin with, we will work only with the upper part of the pattern - with the bodice of the coat.

STEP 1 . Let's move the chest dart towards the shoulder, so that the distance from the edge of the neckline to the dart along the shoulder line is approximately 10 centimeters. Then we move part of the dart into the armhole so that it lengthens by 1.5 centimeters. We will not take into account darts along the waistline.

STEP 2 . Let's deepen the armhole by 4 centimeters. To do this, lower the horizontal line passing under the armhole 4 centimeters down.

STEP 3 . Let's also expand the armhole by 4 cm. To do this, simply spread the front and back halves of the pattern by 4 cm and draw new armhole lines, starting from the control marks on the front and back of the armhole, as shown in the figure.

So, our armhole has already been deepened and expanded. It will continue to change further due to lengthening of the shoulder line. This will lead to changes in the sleeve design. Therefore, let's understand the concepts connecting the armhole and sleeve cap.

When we sew the shoulder seams on the garment and the sides of the sleeves, we have two pieces that we need to join together - the bodice and the sleeve. That is, we have to connect two closed curves - ACEDBA and HFOGJH. These curves are approximately oval-shaped and are called armhole and collar, respectively. As a rule, the length of the armhole ACEDBA is less than the length of the sleeve cap HFOGJH. When sewing a sleeve into an armhole, we also need to have reference marks C and D on the armhole and F and G on the hem. In this case, the armhole and the hem are connected along the areas indicated in the figure with the same colors. Even if the model does not provide a fluffy sleeve with wild folds along the edge, a small fit is still given along the edge in the area from point F to point G to ensure accurate insertion and a good fit of the sleeve. The piping line HFOGJH should be 1.04 - 1.14 times longer than the armhole line ACEDBA (this number n selected depending on the type of fabric).

Obviously, the shapes of the armhole and the collar must correspond to each other, and changing one will definitely force the other to change. And they change when their parameters change: depths And armhole width, sleeve hem height and him width. They are shown in the figure below.

Armhole depth (height) is determined by the distance from the middle of segment AB to the line under the armhole. If we combine the bodice and sleeve patterns along the line under the armhole and edging, respectively, as was done in our figure, we will see that the height of the edging will be less than the depth of the armhole by a certain amount. As a rule, it is 2-2.5 centimeters. So, what changes to the armhole-ring assembly we may encounter:

• If we want deepen the armhole, i.e. To make the entrance to the sleeve freer, we must lower the line under the armhole on the bodice drawing, i.e. lower point E. Then on the drawing of the sleeve we must lower the ends of the sleeve cap at points H and J by the same number of centimeters.
• If we want widen the armhole, that is, to increase the distance between the tangents to points C and D on the bodice drawing, we must move points H and J apart along the line defining the height of the edging. The dilution must be sufficient to ensure conjugation of the CE-FH and DE-GJ regions, respectively. Let us remind you that widening the armhole leads to an increase in the freedom of the product in the chest area.
• If we want lengthen the shoulder, this will move points A and B on the bodice pattern. This entails the following changes to the sleeve pattern: the height of the collar will decrease, and the width of the sleeve will increase. As the slope decreases, point O will move down by the amount of lengthening of the shoulder. Shoulder lengthening is most often performed simultaneously with deepening the armhole. As we said in the first point, if we deepened the armhole, then we need to increase the height of the sleeve cap. But if we are designing a product with a shirt-type sleeve, or even aspiring to a kimono, in which the connecting lines between the sleeve and the armhole are close to straight, and the sleeve is characterized by a very low rim, we can increase the length of the sleeve rim not by deepening the armhole, but only by sleeve extensions. At the same time, we must expand the sleeve so much to ensure approximately equal lengths of ACEDB and HFOGJ (taking into account the correction of the HFOGJ line for landing n , which we talked about above).

Well, our not at all lyrical digression is over :-) We have dealt with the complex at first glance terminology of roundels and sleeves and the intricacies of their mutual transformation, and now we can competently continue modeling our coat. You have probably already noticed that modeling in our case will go along all three points - widening and deepening the armhole along with lengthening the shoulder line.

STEP 4 . Let's lengthen the shoulder lines. To do this, raise the ends of the shoulder sections by 0.5 cm and extend them by that distance a so that the total length of the shoulder is about 20 centimeters. In our case, let's take a =5 cm. It is not necessary to extend the lines strictly in a straight line; you can do this as in our drawing to ensure a smooth rounded shoulder line like our model.

STEP 5 . When lengthening the shoulder, you will need to narrow the armhole by moving points C and D horizontally by a distance a/2 (in our example 2.5 cm). Let's draw a new armhole line with smooth lines.

STEP 6 . At the place of the chest dart we will mark the place of the pintuck. When making a coat, the tuck is made in the form of a small counter fold, stitched to an amount of approximately 3-4 cm.

STEP 7 . The mid-front line on our coat pattern is called the half-skid line, because the coat fastener is usually designed in relation to this line. Draw a line for the edge of the coat at a distance of approximately 4 cm from the half-skid line. Also deepen the front neckline a little.

STEP 8 . On the back, we will draw the middle line by 1.5 cm. To create it, we will connect a point on the waist line with a point on the line of the middle of the back, located at the level of the control mark of the armhole.

So, the pattern for the top of the coat is already ready, it is shown in green in the drawing!

Now let's take care of the sleeve, especially since we can already guess what changes are threatening it.

Sleeve modeling

STEP 1 . Lower the top point of the sleeve by a distance a , by which we lengthened the shoulder. That is, in our example, 5 cm. We get point O1.

STEP 2 . Points F and G will move from each other horizontally by a distance a/4 (in our example 1.25 cm).

STEP 3 . Let's move points H and J apart in such a way as to ensure the equality of the lines F1H=CE and G1J=DE on the armhole and hem, respectively.

STEP 4 . The sleeve is already widened. But it is necessary to expand it a little more to ensure mating at the top of the rim. To do this, cut it in the middle along a vertical line passing through point O.

STEP 5 . Let's spread the sleeve to such a distance that we can combine the sections of the collar with the corresponding sections on the armhole. Namely: section F1O1=AC* n , and section G1O1=BD* n . As already mentioned, n characterizes the size of the sleeve fit and depends on the type of fabric. Let's take n =1.1, as for wool blend and coat fabrics. You can also simplify the fit around the edge as 1 centimeter and expand the pattern, ensuring the length of the edge sections is equal to F1O1=AC+0.5 cm, and the section G1O1=BD+0.5 cm.

STEP 6 . Measure the length of the sleeve at a distance of ¾ from the original length. Draw the side lines of the sleeve from points H and J, ensuring the required width of the sleeve at the bottom.

Sleeve pattern received! It is colored green in the drawing. Now it's time to work on the “skirt” of the coat.

Modeling the bottom of the coat

STEP 1 . To model the “skirt” of the coat, we will cut off the lower part of our base pattern. Let's eliminate the expansion of the coat by decorating the side line with a vertical line, as in the drawing below. We will set the middle line of the back of the skirt 1.5 cm. We do not take into account the dart at the waist. The pattern for the back half of the bottom of the coat is ready! As usual, it is colored green.

STEP 2 . On the front part of the “skirt” we draw a side line at a distance of 4 cm relative to the half-skid line.

Further modeling of the front part of the skirt will remind you of the modeling that we have already sewed in our lessons. The difference is that in that model the opposing folds converged at one point, but here they overlap each other. These overlapping folds are called scissor folds.

STEP 3 . In the middle of the waistline of the front of the skirt, mark a point from which to draw a vertical line. Set aside 2 cm to the sides from this point. And measure 10 cm vertically downwards. Connect the resulting points, as shown in the left figure below. These lines, indicated in our drawing with a red dotted line, will set the direction of future folds.

STEP 4 . Cut the pattern along the marked red dotted lines. Move the pattern pieces apart relative to the intersection point of the fold lines by 10 centimeters. Draw a waist line and mark the joining points of the folds on it. Create a smooth bottom line. The pattern for the front part of the “skirt” is also ready!

Well, that's it, we've finished modeling our coat! Don’t forget to draw the border, the finished width of which should be 8 cm (2 times the size that we retreated from the half-skid line), as well as the facing of the back neck, they are shown in pink in the drawing below.

The first rule states that you should use only fabric that does not have significant defects for cutting a coat. Carefully inspect the material chosen for sewing. Make sure there are no obvious holes, holes, uneven coloring or excessively thick threads. Identified defects should be marked with colored thread or chalk. This will allow you to place problem areas of the fabric in places that will not be visible on the finished coat, for example, on the lower collar or ribs.

The second rule of cutting: before direct cutting, the fabric must be decated. We are talking about wet-heat treatment of the material, which eliminates shrinkage of the fabric during sewing and while wearing the coat. Conventional sewing machines use an iron, but if you have to sew a lot, it makes sense to purchase a special device called a steam generator.

To dedecate fabric containing chemical fibers, soak it in water, wring it out a little, and then wrap it in a clean, dry sheet. The material must remain in this position for at least three hours. Now you can unfold it and iron it from the wrong side. It is recommended not to soak woolen fabric, cashmere and drape, often used for sewing coats, but to iron it from the inside out through a slightly damp cotton rag. The lining material should also be decatified.

When decating, the iron should move in the direction in which the grain thread is located.

If you are doing individual tailoring, it is convenient to fold the fabric in half lengthwise so that the right side faces inward. The pattern is made for only half of the product (one sleeve, half front, half back, and so on). If the fabric you choose has an intricate pattern that requires adjustment, it should be laid out in a single layer, right side down. The number of patterns for this case will correspond to the number of coat parts.

The next cutting rule: when laying out patterns on fabric, be sure to take into account the location of the warp threads, the nature of the pattern and pile. On the main parts of the coat, the threads should be located in the longitudinal direction. This is a very important point, since this way the finished product will stretch to a lesser extent when worn and will not lose its original shape.

You should know that the warp threads are usually directed along the edge of the material.

Another rule concerns the combination of patterns and designs in the space of the future product. It is necessary to cut the coat most carefully if the fabric has a floral or large geometric pattern. When laying out patterns on the material, make sure that the middles of the parts and the centers of the drawings align exactly with each other. Pay special attention to the symmetry of the patterns on the parts of the coat located on the right and left sides of the product.

It is recommended to start cutting the coat from the back. To do this, it is convenient to draw a rectangle with a width of a quarter of the chest circumference. The length of this part should correspond to the length of the coat you have chosen. On the rectangle, mark the waist and chest line, as well as the neck of the coat and. The shelf is cut out in the same way as the back, leaving enough margin for the fastener.

When cutting, do not forget to leave seam allowances of 2-3 cm. The allowance for hem of the bottom of the coat should be larger - 4-5 cm.

The coat sleeve is traditionally drawn on the basis of two perpendicular straight lines, outlining the width and length of this part. At the bottom, the sleeve pattern can be made narrower, taking into account the width of the wrist. Depending on the style, you may also need to cut pockets, belt, collar and yoke. At the last stage of work, it is necessary to repeat all the elements of the sleeves, back and front on the fabric that will be used for the lining.

What could be more pleasant in the cool season than putting on a bright, eye-catching coat and walking through the streets of the city, stopping by your favorite cafe, enjoying the spicy invigorating smells of coffee and warm croissants, and leaving behind a thin trail of an elegant look...

Your wardrobe should have many different coats for every occasion. And to demonstrate your refined taste in clothing, all you have to do is sew several luxurious coats using our patterns. And then, firstly, you will always have “what to wear”, and secondly, you will be able to change your looks not only according to the occasion, but also according to your mood.

A coat can create a mood, and when choosing a coat for each occasion, be it a business meeting or a walk in the park, remember that you will inevitably have to play by its rules.

A red coat will charge you with incredible energy; in it you will find yourself in the center of the Universe and you will not be able to avoid the attention of others. A feeling of euphoria from admiring glances is included.

Business meeting or dinner with colleagues? Then your choice is a spectacular blue coat made of luxurious cashmere. This color will create the right mood and help set the right tone for the entire evening.

Successful transactions, new projects and attractive business prospects are guaranteed.

For everyday activities, of which modern women have plenty, a coat in gray or terracotta colors is ideal. Soft, light, not restricting movement, perhaps you will opt for an oversized style. However, no matter what you choose, you will always feel comfortable in such a coat.

For the first date, sew a light milky coat. It is the milky shade of the fabric that adds luxury and a touch of glamorous chic to the models, which will be just appropriate. The style of such a coat can be different and depends only on your taste and style preferences. These can be either short or maxi models, fitted, double-breasted, single-breasted, with classic or raglan sleeves - the choice is always yours. Create patterns, sew beautiful coats and wear them with pleasure!

What could be better and more comfortable for the cool season than a cozy demi-season coat made of loden! This unique material is made from natural sheep wool, and to make the fabric softer, mohair is added to the raw material. The result is a very soft and delicate material, pleasant to the touch. It is remarkably moldable, flexible and obedient in texture. Products made from loden are very cozy and warm. In this lesson we will model a pattern for a demi-season coat, which we sewed from loden, and also reveal secrets that will help you create a stylish, high-quality product.

A denim jacket with fur is quickly winning the hearts of fashionistas. And it’s not surprising, because this is not only a stylish thing that will help you out in any situation, but also a practical, warm and very combinatorial model - it can be combined with trousers, skirts, dresses... In this lesson we invite you to model a jacket pattern, and then experiment with the style yourself.

Clothes in the same style for mother and daughter are incredibly popular today. When you meet such a couple, you can’t take your eyes off them! And how could it be otherwise, because it is the mother who is an example for her child, she is the one who is able to instill good taste and a sense of style in clothing from childhood. And doing this by your own example is much more pleasant and fun! Today we want to offer you patterns of two stylish cropped coats for mother and daughter, which you can sew using our patterns.

No matter how fashion trends change, an oversized, loose-fitting coat with an unusually large collar and voluminous sleeves almost always remains at the peak of popularity. Made from a soft pastel-colored blend fabric, the coat is very feminine and versatile. Rest assured, this model from the Chloe fashion house will take its rightful place in your wardrobe. Another big advantage of such a product is that you don’t have to adjust the pattern to fit your figure, because the motto of all oversized models is the bigger the better! The oversized coat pattern is in our lesson.

In our next lesson we offer you the modeling of a coat pattern with a one-piece upper part of the sleeve. You will definitely like this voluminous double-breasted cocoon style model, because it has one feature - the sleeve design allows you to create a very smooth, streamlined shoulder line. The quality of the fabric and clean lines give the product a touch of purism style, which is characterized by the absence of complex shapes and is aimed primarily at emphasizing your individuality. The use of natural high-quality fabrics is one of the important components of this style, so when choosing fabric for a model, it is better not to allow compromises.

It's no secret that the role of the main violin in demi-season looks is assigned to outerwear. And no matter what options you create when putting together a stylish solution, the emphasis should always be on the coat. Among the huge number of models, it remains to find the one that suits you, and will be not only beautiful and impressive, but also comfortable and warm, which is especially important in the cold autumn. To guess for sure, we recommend that you pay attention to the cocoon coat. It received its name for its similar shape, and its silhouette, despite its apparent volume, smoothly envelops the figure, remaining at the same time very graceful. The cocoon coat pattern is in our lesson.

Each runway show of the collections of famous designers Dominico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana is a true beauty, embodied in graceful silhouettes, clean lines and luxurious prints. The couturier's refined performance is permeated with great love for women. Looking at these amazing creations, you can’t help but feel that these great masters knew the truth and got to the bottom of it, finding the answer to the most pressing question of all times and peoples - what do women really want. We invite you to dream up your imagination on this topic and sew a luxurious coat from Dolce&Gabbana using our pattern.

If you want to learn how to design, cut and sew clothes yourself, then you simply cannot do without a basic pattern (also called a base pattern). In fact, any basic pattern is a template that can be used in your work and create unique designer clothing models. The accuracy of the basic pattern largely determines the fit of the future product, so special attention should be paid to its construction. This lesson provides a detailed construction of a basic coat pattern, with which you can model and sew any outerwear.

How does the basic coat pattern differ from other basic patterns?

Before you start creating a basic pattern, carefully look at the client’s figure and evaluate the posture, natural position of the body, and possible features of the figure. All this will help you avoid mistakes when creating a design and get the most accurate basis. It is recommended to write down the measurements taken in tabular form and double-check them at least twice.

Since a coat is outerwear, to ensure comfort in wearing, when constructing a basic pattern, it is necessary to include allowances for the freedom of fit. The amount of increase may vary depending on the style of the product and the designer’s tasks.

Supplements vary in purpose, the main ones being:

• minimum permissible increase - an increase without which comfortable movement, breathing, etc. is impossible (can vary depending on the material from 0 to 2 cm).
• for the thickness of the clothing package - this increase takes into account the thickness of the lower layers of clothing and is calculated for jackets and coats. The increase is already included in the tables and is not calculated additionally.
• for the thickness of the insulation package - the increase is added additionally when making clothes with insulation and is calculated by the formula: 6.28 x h, where h is the thickness of the insulation.
• silhouette increase - depends on the silhouette of the product, style, size and height of the child.
• technological increase (added if necessary, for shrinkage during reheating).

To simplify calculations when constructing drawings of basic patterns, use the total value of the minimum allowable increase for the thickness of the clothing package and the allowance for creating the silhouette. This increase is called constructive. Constructive increase - is calculated for shoulder products by Bust Circumference, but is also given by Waist Circumference and Hip Circumference.

In addition, when designing a basic coat pattern, it is necessary to make increases:

• to Neck circumference (NC) (the increase can be from 0.5 to 2 cm depending on the type of product);
• to the measurement Back Waist Length (BW) and to the Front Waist Length (FW) measurement (the shape and thickness of the shoulder pads and the material of the top are taken into account);
• Armhole depth (Gpr);
• Shoulder circumference (OU);
• Shoulder length (Dpl).

Constructive increases are summarized in the table (Fig. 1). In one of the previous lessons we talked about.

Rice. 1. Table of increases for coats

IMPORTANT! Since the construction of any basic pattern is done at half the volume of the figure, increases are also added to half the measurements of the back width and chest width. When designing a pattern, the designer independently determines the amount of the required increase.

Building a basic pattern for a women's coat

The article constructs a basic pattern for a coat with a semi-fitted silhouette using standard size 46 with an increase of 7 cm for the freedom of fit (see Fig. 1).

To draw a coat pattern drawing, you need to take the following measurements (size 46):

1. Coat back length 110 cm
2. Back length to waist 42.5 cm
3. Back width 36.5 cm
4. Armhole width 10 cm
5. Chest width (W1) 38 cm
6. Width above chest (W2) 30 cm
7. Armhole depth 20 cm
8. Hip height 20 cm
9. Oblique shoulder height (VPK) 43 cm
10. Front waist length 46 cm
11. Shoulder height oblique front (VPKP) 46 cm
12. Chest height 28 cm
13. Bust center 22 cm
14. Shoulder length 12 cm
15. Neck circumference 37 cm
16. Waist 72 cm
17. Hip circumference 98 cm.

The figure below shows how to correctly take measurements for Bust Width (W1) and Width Above Bust (W2), as well as the distance between these two levels (h).

Rice. How to take measurements SHG1, SHG2 and h.

Constructing a coat pattern

To construct a drawing, you will need a sheet of paper with a width taking into account the size (46 cm) + an increase in CO (freedom of fit) + 10 cm and a length of 140 cm.

Step back 20 cm from the top of the sheet, step back 5 cm from the left edge to the right and place point A. From point A, draw a perpendicular down and a horizontal line of arbitrary length to the right. Lay down along a perpendicular line:

1. AG = 23 cm (Armhole depth + 3 cm increase from the table (see Fig. 1));
2. AT = Length to back waist + 0.5 cm increase in fit (the value is not constant and may vary depending on the model and shape of the shoulder pads);
3. TB = 20 cm (measurement: Hips height);
4. AN = 110 cm (coat length along the back).

From points G, T, B and H, draw horizontal lines of arbitrary length to the right - the following lines are obtained: armhole line, waist line, hip line, hem line.

From point G along a horizontal line, move to the right:

1. GG1 = 1/2 Back width according to measurement + 1.5 cm (increase from table Fig. 1) = 36.5/2 + 1.5 = 19.75 cm
2. G1G2 = Armhole width according to measurement + 3.5 cm = 10 + 3.5 = 13.5 cm
3. G2G3 = 1/2 Chest Width according to measurement + 2 cm = 19 + 2 = 21 cm.

Through point G3, draw a vertical segment to the intersection with the horizontal lines; at the intersection, points B, T1, B1, H1 are obtained.

From points G1 and G2, lift up perpendiculars; at the intersection with the horizontal line AB, points P and P1 are obtained.

Side line. Divide the segment G1G2 in half - you get point G4. From point G4, lower the perpendicular G4H2 down until it intersects with the bottom line. At the intersection with the waist line, point T3 was obtained, with the hip line - B3.

Rice. 2. Pattern-basis of a women’s coat with darts

Building the back of the coat

Mid-back line. From point T, set aside TT2 = 2 cm to the right, from point B, set aside BB2 = 1 cm to the right. Divide the segment AG in half and from the division point draw a smooth line in the middle of the back, from point B2 lower the line vertically down.

Back neckline. From point A, set aside AA1 to the right = 1/6 of the neck circumference according to the measurement + 2 cm for all sizes): 37/6 + 2 = 8.2 cm. From point A1 up, set aside 2.5 cm - point A2. Connect points A and A2 with a concave line.

Backrest tilt. From point T2, draw an auxiliary arc with a radius according to the measurement Oblique shoulder height (VPK) + 0.5 cm (for landing): 43 cm + 0.5 cm = 43.5 cm.

Shoulder line. Draw the shoulder line A2P2 from point A2 with a length of 14.5 cm (shoulder length according to measurement + 1 cm for lengthening the shoulder + 1.5 cm for fit or dart): 12 + 1 + 1.5 = 14.5 cm so that point P2 lay on the auxiliary arc.

IMPORTANT! In this construction, the length of the shoulder of the backrest is lowered, which creates a convex shape on the upper part of the backrest, however, it is recommended for stooped figures.

Back armhole line. From corner G1, draw a perpendicular 2.5 cm long, from point G1 set aside 7 cm upward and build a back armhole line from point P2 to point G4 as shown in the drawing.

Back side seam. From point T3 to the left set aside 1.5 cm, from point B3 to the right set aside 1.5 cm. Draw the side seam line with a smooth line as shown in the drawing. In some cases, expansion along the side seam at the hip line is not required.

Dart at the waistline. From point G1, move 2.5 cm to the left and 3 cm down. Draw a vertical line to the hip line and build a waist dart 3 cm deep (the value is not constant and may vary depending on the style and individual measurements).

Building a coat front

Lifting the shelf. From point T1, put up the segment T1Ш = Length to the front waist according to measurement + 0.5 cm = 46 cm + 0.5 cm = 46.5 cm; from point Ш draw a horizontal line to the left, from point P1 lift the perpendicular up, at the intersection you get point Ш1.

Shelf neckline cutout. From point Ш, set aside ШШ2 = ШВ2 = 1/6 neck circumference according to measurement + 2 cm for all sizes): 37/6 + 2 = 8.2 cm. From point Ш, use a compass to build an arc.

Shoulder length from neckline to chest dart. From point Ш2, set aside 4 cm to the right and 1.3 cm down (for all sizes). Draw a short sloping section of the shoulder Ш2С.

Chest shelf dart. To find the point Center of the Chest, put down the measurement Chest Height from point Ш2, from the line of the middle front measure 1/2 of the Center of the Chest + 0.5 cm. At the intersection, point C1 is obtained - Center of the Chest (C.G.). Connect points C and C1 with a straight line - the right side of the chest dart is obtained.

The depth of the chest dart is calculated by the formula: G = (1/2 measurement Bust width minus 1/2 measurement Width above the bust) minus 1 cm = 19 - 15 - 1 = 3 cm.

Draw the left side of the chest dart with a length equal to the length of the right side of the chest dart C1P3 = C1C.

The slope of the shoulder of the shelf. From point T1, draw an auxiliary arc with a radius according to the measurement Height of the shoulder oblique front (VPKP) + 0.5 cm: 46 cm + 0.5 cm (increase for landing) = 46.5 cm.

Shoulder line. Calculate the shoulder line after dart P3P4 using the formula: P3P4 = Shoulder length according to measurement + 1 cm - 4 cm (short section before the dart) = 12 + 1 - 4 = 9 cm and draw in such a way that point P4 lies on the auxiliary arc.

Front armhole line. From corner G2, draw a bisector 2.5 cm long. At a level of 7 cm from the armhole line, set aside 0.5 cm to the left. Draw the armhole line of the shelf from point P4 to point G4.

Side seam of the front. From point T3 to the right, set aside 1.5 cm, from point B3 to the left, set aside 1.5 cm. Draw the side seam line as shown in Fig. 2.

Darts at the waistline. From point C1, draw a perpendicular down to the hip line. Construct a waist dart 3 cm deep.

A second waist dart on the front is necessary if additional fitting or construction of a relief seam is necessary. From point G2, move 3 cm to the right and 7-8 cm down. Construct a second waist dart 2 cm deep as shown in Fig. 2.

Simulation of hem and collar

The half-skid width for a single-breasted coat is 3 cm, for a double-breasted coat 6-8 cm. From the mid-front line, set aside 3 cm to the right and draw a vertical line (side line in Fig. 3).

Extend the shoulder line from point Ш2 to the right by 2 cm. Draw the fold line of the lapel through this point as shown in the drawing and extend it upward. W2W3 = back neck length + 0.5 cm for fit.

Along the line of the middle front from the bottom point of the neckline B2, set 1 cm down and construct the configuration of the lapel and collar of the coat. The configuration of the lapel and collar can vary and is determined by the designer based on fashion trends and model decisions. Transfer the collar detail onto paper, cut along the auxiliary line and spread along the upper side by 2.5 cm.

Rice. 3. Modeling the collar and hem

Draw a hem line from the shoulder seam to the bottom of the front. Transfer the border onto paper and cut it out separately.

Depending on the coat model, you will additionally need or. After the basic pattern of the coat has been created, you can proceed to modeling the style.

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We invite you to look through coat models with patterns; perhaps you will like one or more of them and decide to add your own creation to your wardrobe.
This article is intended for people with at least minimal design skills.

M-1. Casual coat.

Classic coat style.

A jacket-type collar with lapels and a stitched stand. Welt pockets are made with a “tuning” leaflet.
The shoulder girdle is widened; shoulder pads are not used in this model. Finishing stitching is laid along the collar, 2 sides and lapels.
The clasp is “supatnaya” (hidden).
We add 3 cm to (Shp) shoulders, and Vpkp (height of square oblique front) – 0.7 cm.
There is no provision for landing along the slope (H=0).

M-2. Coat made without fastening.

Straight, semi-fitted silhouette. Slant pockets with a “leaf”. The decoration of this modest coat is the original sleeves.
Model (2) is created on the basis of a coat (d/s) with a chest dart. Model the sleeve as shown in the pattern. The bottom of the sleeves and neckline are finished with facing.

M-3. Coat-robe (one-piece sleeve).

Straight cut, slightly tapered at the bottom. The sleeves are finished with one-piece cuffs. Double-breasted clasp. Leaf pockets shifted to the side.
Before you start sewing the product with a whole piece. sleeve, you need to properly prepare it using a WTO (iron). The main attention should be paid to the sleeves. To always navigate where you need to iron your sleeve and where you need to iron it, imagine your arm in a bent position at the elbow.

In this pattern, you can also adjust the length and width of the sleeves to suit your needs.

M-4. Double-breasted (demi-season) coat.

Classic double-breasted coat with an English collar. Set-in pockets are hidden in the front reliefs. There is decorative stitching along the side, raised seams and collar. In this model, the lining can be made either detached or stitched.

M-5. Double coat (2nd option).

Trapezoidal silhouette, sleeves greatly expanded towards the bottom. Double-breasted clasp. Pockets are stitching leaves, made with raised seams.
The bottom of the sleeve is decorated with fur. To get a trapezoidal silhouette, you need to add 10 cm to the Sat. The bottom of the sleeve will expand by 24 cm.

M-6. Double coat (option 3).

The top of the coat “sits” tightly on the figure, the extension starts from the hip line. Set-in jacket collar. The middle and raised seams of the back, collar flap, sides, chest darts and waistband are decorated with stitching. Set-in belt. The coat is fastened with 1 button. The waist line has warehouses arranged to meet one another. The underline is not extended. The sleeves are tapered, 2-seam. In the presented model, Popv is 1 cm larger than Pg. The skid line is standard - 2.5 cm from the edge of the side.

Modeling the printed base:

We set aside 3 cm above and also below the waist line, cut out the resulting section, which we turn (by modeling) into a set-in belt. Why do you need to close the waist dart on the shelf?
We model the chest dart and bury the waist dart.
We outline the warehouses and expand the base.

M-7. Double coat (4th option).

The product fits tightly to the silhouette. The stand-up collar is raised, the neckline becomes larger. Sleeve (shirt), widened at the bottom. Sleeve length – 7/8.
The set-in belt is decorated with many stitches. If desired, the belt can be made from fabric of a different color. The coat is fastened with a zipper.
The model is created on the basis of a d/s coat with a stand-up and /shirt/ sleeve cut.

We make changes:

Add 3 cm to Ssh.
The shoulder must be narrowed to such an extent that the back armhole is vertical.
We close the waist dart and chest dart, transfer everything to the side chest.
Shorten the collar to a width equal to the placket. The expansion of the gate at the departure is 10 cm.
No half skid required.

M-8. Coat d/s (5 in-t).

Straight cut, (double-breasted) wrap and long belt. Pockets are located in raised seams. The collar is made with a raised neckline.
Sleeves are 1-seam straight, with one-piece cuffs. The finishing stitch is laid along the sides, flap, waistband, and cuffs.
Coat models with patterns, built on the basis of a d/s coat, can also be used for sewing winter clothes, just do not forget to add extra insulation.
The 8th model is developed on the basis of a d/s coat with a shawl collar and straight one-seam sleeves.
The shawl collar can be replaced with an apache collar with a stand-up collar.

M-9. Coat d/s. (6 v-t).

Semi-fitted, with zipper. The shelves are asymmetrical. The collar is a high stand-up collar fastened with 2 buttons. On the right shelf at the top there is a framed pocket with a zipper. The side pockets are also framed, but without a zipper. The middle seam of the back panel ends with a slot. There is stitching along the collar, yoke and sides.

M-10. Double coat, designed for cashmere or other soft fabric.

Straight-cut coat with dropped shoulders. There is expansion along the neck. Stand collar (15 cm). Sleeves are 1-seam, widened, with stitched cuffs. Supat clasp. Patch (with flap) pockets. To build this foundation, you need to make adjustments to the measurements.
To increase the width of the neckline to Ssh + 9 cm, raise the shoulder point by 1 cm. Shorten dtp by 1 cm. Increase Shs and Shg by 1 cm (Sg will increase accordingly), reducing the shoulder dart by 1 cm respectively. To Shp add 3 cm and increase Vpkp by 1 cm. Popv = 20 cm. H=0 – the sleeve does not fit. Having made all the envisaged changes, we build the foundation. Next we model (see pattern). We redistribute the chest shoulder dart into the neckline.

M-11. Cashmere d/s coat.

A modern coat with a close-fitting silhouette that widens towards the bottom. Model with a 1-breasted wrap and a belt that is tied. Invisible pockets in raised seams. The sleeves are three-seam, one-piece. The style is created on the basis of d/s prital. coat with a “stand”, as well as a 1-seam sleeve.

To build we make changes:

We increase the seam by 6 cm, expand the neck by 2 cm.
Shoulders raise the back point by 1 cm, lower the shelves by 1 cm.
We reduce the accident by 1 cm.
The sleeve does not fit. H=0.