Cold weather is not a reason to refuse walks! Daily festivities are beneficial for both health and development of the baby. After all, almost every day a child will be able to independently make real discoveries, observing changes in the world around him.

So, it's time to think about the appropriate equipment.

What should be a jacket for a baby

For a walk to be enjoyable for a child, he must be able to actively move. Therefore, it is important to take care of comfortable clothing. Especially - about the top, which includes jackets.

Clothing requirements for children

• Things must provide freedom of movement, do not constrain, be comfortable.
• The best fabric - water-repellent, windproof.
• Babies should be offered beautiful wardrobe items, to shape their aesthetic taste from an early age.
• In addition to matching the parameters of children, it is important to know for sure that the fabrics that were used in the product are environmentally friendly and safe for the baby.

Hand made is fashionable

Today trade offers different kinds these products. But every mother knows that their price is considerable, but the period of use is short, because babies quickly grow out of clothes.

However, you don't need to upgrade! Mom can sew a comfortable jacket on her own.

At the same time, she can replenish the children's wardrobe with things for a variety of temperature conditions.
We will tell you how to make a pattern to sew a jacket that will please both the baby and his mother.

What measurements will be needed for the pattern

Sewing any little thing begins with drawing up a pattern. And for it, you need some specific data.

Important! Many ready-made patterns for babies are based on the growth of the child.

In addition, in the process of measuring the baby needs to be clarified:

• which volume have it waist, neckline, chest and neck.
• Which handle length child.

Arm length must be measured twice. First, on an outstretched arm, and then on a bent at the elbow.

How to build a paper pattern of a children's jacket

Understanding the finished pattern hooded jackets.

We offer a drawing that allows you to sew the product for a baby whose age is 1 year and height 92 cm.
Please note that the paper blank that we are studying is made on checkered paper. The size of each cell is 1 cm. Thus, you will be able to independently calculate the parameters you need by increasing or decreasing the drawing.

Algorithm for working on a pattern

• print paper blank in full size or independently enlarge it on a graph paper, observing the proportions.
• Taking into account the measurements taken from the child, check whether the workpiece fits the width of the product, the length of the jacket and sleeve.
• Make changes to the drawing if necessary., adjusting it for children's sizes.
• paper cut shelf blank. It is shown in the drawing pink.
• Cut out the base backrests. You will find it on the same drawing as the shelf. Just now work with the drawing of blue color.
• Cut out the remaining pieces: sleeve, side and center of the hood.

Now you have all the paper pieces you need to create a baby jacket.

cutting

• For a shelf need 2 parts, which will become the left and right parts of the front.
• Back consists from one piece which is cut out of fabric with a fold.

Advice: if you are altering a jacket from other clothes and bending the material is not possible, the back can be made from 2 parts that are connected by a seam.

• Sleeves and sides of the hood also consist from 2 parts.
• But middle of the hood in the drawing is represented by half of the part. Therefore, her cut out, combining side part folded workpieces.

Important: when cutting out the details, do not forget to add an additional 1-1.5 cm to the paper drawing for seam allowances.

Clasp

• For fastening, use lightning.
• Having cut out the additional valve, you can make lightning invisible. The part is sewn onto one of the shelves, fastened with buttons or buttons in the upper and lower parts.

Product options

• The jacket can be made lightweight. But if desired, it can be lined, and may also have insulation.
• Working with lining fabric or insulation, cut out the details according to the same drawings. But at the same time, do 1.5 cm less!
• Insert the drawstring into the bottom collar and into the hood trim. So you will be able to reliably protect the child from strong winds.

Finishing

• Lining fabric can be used as a trim, if made from it cuffs or process the hood.
• If desired, you can sew on a shelf patch pockets.
• This jacket will suit both boys and girls. The pattern does not change. But decorative elements may be different. For boy you can use ready-made applications with cars or your favorite cartoon characters.
• Jacket sewing for girl gives more options for decorating the product. In addition to appliques and embroidery, you can use bright beads, rhinestones, sequins.

You were able to make sure that tailoring new clothes for your beloved baby is not such a difficult matter. You will definitely get a jacket in which the baby will be warm and comfortable!

Of course, children, like adult uncles and aunts, come in different sizes even in the very young age, so before cutting, take a centimeter and determine what size jacket is right for your his baby.

We give five sizes of a pattern for a children's jacket.

The main requirements for modern winter children's clothing are, first of all, comfort. Everything is included here - this is waterproofness, windproofness, lightness, multifunctionality, and environmental friendliness, etc.

Therefore, responsibly approach the choice of material for sewing jackets.

Finished pattern children's jacket is given without seam allowances.

Preparing a pattern for work is easy. But, if you have any questions about downloading the pattern, you can see detailed instructions. Other file sharing services work on a similar principle.

How to print a pattern is described in detail.

Download a program for viewing and printing patterns.

Print the pattern sheets on the printer and connect them in accordance with the diagram. The scheme is the order in which the pattern sheets are connected. It is printed on the first page.

Necessarily check the scale. On a printed sheet with a 10x10 cm square depicted, the sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters. To do this, in the printer settings, set the print scale of the document to 100% (without scaling).

Additionally to the main details you need to cover:

- Pickup(2 parts) it is indicated by a thin dotted line on the shelf pattern for size 104, for other sizes, draw the selection line yourself. For ease of use, copy the selection as a separate pattern;

- Zipper placket(1 piece with a fold)

according to the size 48 - 50.5 - 53 - 55.5 - 58 - cm long and 8 cm wide (4 cm in finished form) plus seam allowances;

- Kulisku(1 piece) length according to size 76 - 78 - 80 - 82 - 84 cm and a width of 2 cm plus seam allowances;

- Sleeve cuffs(2 parts) length according to size 24 - 24.5 - 25 - 25.5 - 26 cm, width 6 cm (finished 3 cm) plus seam allowances;

- Trim for processing the cut of the sleeve(2 parts)

for all sizes 16 x 3 cm plus seam allowances.

- Fold details voluminous pockets:

for the lower pockets (4 parts) according to the size 13 - 14 - 15 - 16 - 17 long and 3 cm wide,

for the upper pockets (4 parts) according to the size 8 - 8.5 - 9 - 9.5 - 10 and a width of 3 cm plus seam allowances.

These parts can be cut in one piece with pockets, adding 3 cm along the side cuts, plus a seam allowance.

If processing such pockets seems difficult for you, you can process regular patch pockets.

You will also need a detachable zipper with a length of 45 - 50 - 55 cm.

Lining and insulation are cut according to the main details. When cutting the lining and back insulation, you must first combine the patterns of the yoke and the main part of the back. And when cutting the shelves, subtract the width of the selection. It is best to pre-make patterns of the lining and insulation by copying the main patterns onto a separate sheet of paper, cut off the pick from the shelf, and combine the yoke line on the back.

Having swept away the details, try on the product, make any necessary corrections and start sewing.

Advice: After connecting the hood with the lining at a distance of 2 cm from the edge along the front side, you can lay a line, forming a drawstring, insert a lace or elastic band, bring out the ends and insert the clamps. For the ends of the lace, you first need to process the hole (loop or eyelet).

Children's thin fleece-lined jacket will keep you warm in cold weather. autumn days, and the hood will help to hide from the wind. According to our pattern, you can sew a jacket for both a boy and a girl. The pattern is designed for a child of 2 years.

Children's jacket: preparation for sewing and material selection

To sew a children's jacket, you will need a fabric for the upper part (preferably waterproof), fleece for the lining, knitwear ("elastic") for the cuffs and a detachable zipper. Fabric consumption - two lengths of the product plus 10 cm, for allowances. In order to accurately determine the consumption of fabric, take a sheet 150 cm wide, fold it in half. Then lay out patterns on it, taking into account allowances for seams and the number of parts. The main parts should lie in parallel. Use a measuring tape to measure the length of the fabric. This will be the exact cost. If you take the main fabric with a pattern (pattern) in one direction, keep this in mind and do not turn the pattern over. Instead of jacket fabric, you can choose another dense fabric: jeans, velveteen, suede.

To build a pattern, we need paper, it can be old wallpaper, graph paper, or A4 sheets.

So, let's sew a children's jacket!

Building a pattern

First, draw a rectangle. For the details of the front and back 36x17.5 cm, for the sleeves 28x40 cm. Then draw the armholes and the neck.

cutting

Allowances for seams and cuts - 1.5 cm. For the hem of the bottom of the sleeves - 4 cm. For the hem of the bottom - 4 cm.

From jacket fabric:

• back detail 1 pc;
• front detail 2 pcs;
• sleeves 2 pcs;
• hood 2 pcs.

From fleece:

• back detail 1 pc;
• front detail 2 pcs;
• sleeves 2 pcs;
• hood 2 pcs.

Progress

We grind the sleeves from the main fabric with the details of the front and back. Notch the armhole allowances, iron the seams.

We grind the side seams of the jacket and sleeves at the same time

We do the same with the details of the lining.

Sew together the details of the hood. Then we sew together the hood of the main fabric with the hood of the lining.

Attach the hood to the jacket. We mark the middle of the back on the main fabric. Fold the back seam of the hood with the mid-back line. Front side of the back to the front side of the hood. Lay the lining on top, right side up. Allowances for the zipper should remain on the details of the front.

Sew on the cuffs. Fold cuff in half, inside out. We sew the cuffs in the same way as the hood. We turn the sleeves from the main fabric and the lining inside out. We combine the seams of the sleeves from the main fabric and the lining. There is a cuff between the two sleeves. Sew the cuff edges together to the lower sleeve edges, while stretching the cuff.

We sew a zipper. We retreat from the bottom of the front of the jacket 3 cm, make a mark. From the mark we sew halves of the zipper, tuck the ends of the zipper.

The lining of the jacket is ready (we examined how to sew it in, you will also find a pattern there), but before finished product still far away: you still have a whole million of parts from raincoat fabric to be sewn, parts from a jacket garter for cuffs and a collar, a snake ... In this master class, we will tell you how to competently combine all these parts into a single product - spring jacket for boy.

Manufacturing:

1. First of all, you need to connect more or less large parts of the jacket. Attach the two side pieces of the back to the sides of the central part of the back and, if necessary, fasten with pins. Be careful: noticeable holes after the pins may remain in the raincoat fabric. So, if you can, try to avoid over-piercing the tissue. Sew the sides to the center piece using a straight stitch at 3 intervals.

2. Bend the seam allowances towards the center piece and topstitch with a straight seam on the right side.

3. Attach the back yoke to the received part (face to face) and sew with a straight seam. Then stitch the allowance in the same way, bending it to the top part (yoke).

4. Unlike the lining version, where the sleeves are one-piece, two parts of the sleeves are cut from the main fabric. Now they need to be sewn in pairs on a typewriter and immediately iron the seam allowances on the wrong side.

5. Well, then - stitch the allowances on the front side on both sides of the seam.

5. The back of the jacket and sleeves are ready - which means that you need to stitch all the details of the front. Attach the burlap pockets to the central and side parts of the shelf (face to face) and fasten with pins.

6. Sew the burlaps to these parts, and then turn the burlaps over and topstitch along the right side, leaving a slight indent from the junction of the fabrics.

7. Fold the center and side pieces together, matching the pocket burlaps, and sew them inside out with a straight seam. Lay the seams only at the top (before the pocket) and at the bottom (after the pocket).

8. Turn both burlaps towards the side of the shelf and topstitch the seam connecting the side to the central part of the shelf. This is how a neat entrance to the pocket should turn out:

9. Turn the product on the wrong side and stitch the burlap pockets around their perimeter.

10. On the front side, fasten at the top and bottom of the pocket opening. To do this, go through a short and small zigzag seam perpendicular to the pocket entrance.

11. Sew front yoke to front front pocket. Wrap the allowances up (to the side of the yoke) and topstitch with a straight seam. Repeat the same with the other shelf: make a pocket and attach a yoke.

12. Attach the shelves to the back part: stitch the shoulder seams, bend the allowances towards the back and stitch.

13. Attach the sleeves to the armholes of the sleeves of the jacket and attach them with pins (at least at the upper shoulder point).

14. Attach the sleeves of the jacket on a typewriter. In tailoring this jacket, you often have to stitch the seams (for additional decorativeness of the product), but in the case of sleeves, this is not necessary.

15. On a typewriter, stitch the side seams of the jacket, passing into the seams of the sleeves.

16. The base of the jacket is ready! Now you need to attach the cuffs. Connect the details of the cuffs into a ring and stitch the edges from the wrong side. Then turn right side out.

17. "Put" the cuffs on the edges of the sleeves and fix with pins, slightly stretching the cuffs.

18. Stitch cuffs and turn sleeves right side out.

19. Attach two parts from raincoat fabric to the lower pull-down bar - the details of the lower bar, which will be located next to the bottom of the zipper.

20. Unfold the jacket garter and sew only one edge to the bottom of the jacket.

21. Sew the other end of the garter to the lining of the jacket.

22. Fold the front and lining parts of the jacket as shown in the photo: as if inserting a bent bottom strap from the garter between them. Sew a line next to the seam where you attached the placket to the lining. But at the same time, start and finish the seam 10 cm from the edge of the sides of the jacket (to make it easier to embroider the zipper).

23. Turn both parts of the jacket - front and lining - inside out and carefully attach the lining sleeves to the jacket sleeves. Stitch the bottom edges of the lining sleeves to the cuff allowances.

24. Cuffs and hem are sewn on!

25. Unfasten the detachable zipper completely and attach its halves to the sides of the jacket. Secure the zipper with a hand basting stitch.

26. Sew the zipper to the sides of the jacket using the zipper foot.

27. Slightly support the side seam of the lining and turn it inside out. Insert the collar piece, folded in half, between the lining and the main part of the jacket (similar to how you sewed in the bottom of the jacket) and sew with a straight seam. Turn the jacket right side out, stitch the collar, slightly stepping back from the junction of the fabrics. Carefully stitch the hole you made in the lining.

Spring jacket for the boy is ready! It can be sewn in a day or two, while spending very little money. A jacket garter can be replaced with a regular 2 by 2 ribbed, because looking for a garter of the right shade in stores is a thankless task. Using the pattern of this model, you can also sew a very light windbreaker jacket for spring walks!

To build a pattern for a children's jacket, you need measurements for an individual or standard figure, as well as a table of allowances for a free fit.

For a standard figure, usesize chart .

Measurements needed to build a pattern:

Cg - half-girth of the chest,




St - waist half circumference,




Sat - half-circumference of the hips,




Wh - chest width,




Dts - back length,




Ws - back width,




Di - product length,




Shp - shoulder width,




Dr - sleeve length.

To build a pattern for a children's jacket, we first build a grid, which we start by building right angle with a vertex at point O.

From point O, the vertical line is taken as the middle of the back, and the horizontal line is taken as the level of the top of the neck of the back.

From point O to the right horizontally, we measure a segment equal to the width of the product along the chest line Cr + Pg (free fit 6 cm) and mark the top with point O1.

O O1 \u003d Cr + Pg.

The vertical line drawn from O1 down is the line of the middle of the front (shelves).

Waistline

From the point O down, we measure the length of the back Dts = 26 cm and denote it with a point T.

From point T we draw a horizontal line to the straight line O1 and denote it by points T1.

bottom line

From point O down we measure the length of the product:
Di + Pr (for insulation) + Pr (for elastic)

Di \u003d 45 + 2 +3 \u003d 50 cm and denoted by the point H.

From the point H we draw a horizontal line to the straight line O1 and denote it by the point H1.

Now the segment O O1: 2 and denote a2.

From a2 down to the segment H H1 we lower the vertical line and denote H2, and at the intersection with the segment T T1 we denote T2.

armhole depth line

The segment a2 T2 is divided into 3 equal parts. 2/3 and there will be a line of the depth of the armhole and denoted by the point G2.

Draw a horizontal line from G2 in both directions.

Back width

From the point O to the right, we measure Ws + Pr and denote it with a point.

Shelf width

From the point O1 to the left, we measure the width of the chest Wg + Pr and denote it with the point a1.

Armhole Width

From the points a a1 down to the straight line G2 we lower the vertical lines. This will be the border of the armhole width.

Construction of the back and shelves

Back neck

From point O down we measure 1.5 cm and denote point A.

We measure 5 cm from the point O to the right and denote it with the point A1.

We build the angle A, 1, A1 \u003d A, O, A1.

We connect points A1 A with a smooth line.

Shelf neck

From the point O1 to the left 5 cm and denote A2.

We measure 6 cm from the point O1 down and mark it with the point A3.

In children, the balance is zero and therefore the height of the shoulder of the back and shelves will be at the same level. Balance is the difference between Dtp2 and Dts2 measures.

back shoulder line

We measure 2.5 cm from point a down and mark it with point 3.

From point A1 through point 3 we measure Shp + 1, where 1 cm is given for shrinkage instead of tuck and denoted by point P.

Shelf shoulder line

We measure 2.5 cm from point a1 down and mark it with point 4 and from point A2 through point 4 we measure Shp and mark it with point P1.

Back and front armhole line

We connect the points P G2 P1 with a smooth line as shown in the figure. Do it by eye or according to the "droplet" pattern. Just make sure that the tops of the armhole are at a right angle.

Sleeve

To build a sleeve, we draw two mutually perpendicular lines centered at the point O1.

Eye height

O1 O2 = 6 cm

Sleeve Width

From O2 with a radius equal to half the length of the armhole (in the drawing of the shelf and back), we make notches on the horizontal line, passing through O1 and denoted by points P1 P2.

O2 P1 \u003d O2 P2 \u003d Dpr: 2, where Dpr is the length of the armhole contour, and P1 P2 is the width of the sleeve in expanded form.

We divide the segments O1 P1 and O1 P2 in half and erect perpendiculars.

Now let's define the auxiliary points for the design of the sleeve eye:

3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.

Segments P1 3; 3 O2; O2 4; 4 R2, divide in half.

From the obtained points, we restore perpendiculars.

From points 5 and 6, 1 cm each, from point 7 - 0.5 cm, from point 8 - 1.5 cm.

We draw the okat line through the points P1 3 O2 4 P2.

The length of the sleeve

From point O2 down we measure the length of the sleeve + 2-3 cm for the elastic.

Sleeve width at the bottom

On a horizontal line from point M we measure the width of the sleeve (according to the model): M M1 \u003d M M2 \u003d Sh hands. below (finished).

Elasticized cuff

We draw a rectangle whose width is equal to the width of the bottom of the sleeve, and the height of the rectangle is equal to the width of the elastic band multiplied by 2.

If the elastic is inserted into the cuffs, then you need to add 0.5 cm, if you sew the elastic with the cuff together, then you do not need to add 0.5 cm.

If you do not want cuffs, then you can only sew an elastic band, as shown in the model in the photo.

Pocket

Any pockets can be made: overhead, overhead with a valve, welt with a leaflet, welt with a zipper.

Hood

The hood of our model consists of two parts.

Let's take two measurements:

from the base of the neck through the head to the base of the neck,




from the 7th cervical vertebra to the forehead.

The length of the neck of one part of the hood is equal to the length of the neck of one shelf and half of the back.

Collar

Stand collar. We draw a rectangle whose length is equal to the length of the neck of the back and shelves. Collar height is up to you. In this case, 6 cm.

plank

We draw a rectangle, the length is equal to the length of the center of the shelf, the width (according to the model is 6 cm). Round off the ends on one side.

The design of the children's jacket has been completed and now we will check all the details and indicate on them the direction of the shared thread, the name of the part and its quantity: