Weaving from newspapers. Amazing boxes with a master class from Owlets

For lovers of use waste material and weaving from newspaper tubes I hasten to show the amazing work of the craftswoman Owlet. Very neat and beautiful braids - trays and boxes were woven by the author from gray newsprint paper. The tubes are painted with water stains - Mokko, Maple, Mokko + Rosewood, diluted and mixed in different proportions. Below you will see detailed photo master class from the author on weaving a box with a soft textile pillow on the lid

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The photo below shows everything you need for work. Among other things, 300 green "fern" and 100 "nut" tubes (the tubes remained), synthetic winterizer, tablecloth linen, aluminum mold (primus lid), weights from collapsible dumbbells. The photo only lacks a glue gun.

Further, the text of the author. I twist the tubes from strips 7 cm wide on a 1.5 mm needle made of gray Consumer paper. Finished thickness - 4 mm. Showed the tubes in a section. I always moisten the working tubes with water so that they become elastic. At the same time, the water stain, with which I paint them, is not washed off and does not paint my hands, it is convenient. I always use dry tubes for the uprights and try not to bend or break them. I spliced ​​the tubes ALWAYS on the seamy side of the weave. To do this, I cut off the thin tip of the tube at an acute angle (as in the photo) BEYOND the STAND together with the gluing point (there is usually no paint over there because of the glue). On the tube cut in this way I put on a new one with a wide end. I try not to regret the pipes. Quality comes first!

I start to weave lower part caskets. I splice the tubes for the risers, otherwise their length will not be enough for the bend. I glue 4 pairs of stanchions with a glue gun (or DO NOT glue it, when). At the top and bottom pair, I try to arrange the joints so that they are then closed with working tubes. The rest of the joints are in the center.

Weave 2 rows with one working tube and cut them off. I glue the tips. At the same time, I try not to glue them to the risers, so that later the risers can be beautifully diluted without kinks. In the photo - WALK side.

I take another tube and again weave 2 more rows with one working tube. In the photo - WALK side. The circle on the right marked the place where the first working tube was glued. The circle on the left is the place where the working tube is spliced ​​(the second row is not finished yet).

In the photo - the FRONT side. In the circle, I showed how I spread the double stays, helping with a knitting needle so that they do not break. The square marks the working tube. In the triangle - I glued the second working tube for the "string".

She marked the beginning of the second row of the "rope" with a thread. The transition to the "return rope" will be done all the time on this stand.

She showed me how I cut off a worker. a tube so that the joint is BEYOND the upright.

I have already woven 4 rows with a "string" and the distance between the stanchions increased - almost 2 cm. In the triangle I showed how I was picking a place with a knitting needle to insert additional tubes. In the square is the mark of the stand-up for the transition, and in the circle you can see what the transition looks like.

Wove another 2 glad with a "string". It's time to spread the risers and, to hide the wiring place, weave a volumetric roller with gray tubes "with a string" in 4 tubes. In the mug she showed how she glued additional tubes. In the square is the mark of the FIRST stand-up. A red working tube emerges between the first and second risers. Between the second and third - yellow, between the third and fourth - green, between the fourth and fifth - blue. To make the joint of this row invisible, you need to dock the end of each of the four tubes in the same places at the end of its weaving. Trim the ends. I weave a row. Go...

Have arrived. In the circle - the mark of the FIRST stand. Between the first and the second stand, a butt working tube, which lay behind the FIRST stand, marked it in red. The rest of the working tubes were marked with the corresponding colors in the same order as at the beginning of the row.

I don’t cut the first working tube (red) yet, but put it tightly to its beginning. The second (yellow) working tube is joined between the second and third standpipes, pushing it UNDER ONE tube. I help with a thin knitting needle.

The second (yellow) is docked, now you can crop the first (red). She will not go anywhere.

The first (red) is cropped, and it is not visible. The second (yellow) is docked. Butt third (green) between the third and fourth risers. I stick it UNDER TWO tubes.

The third (green) is docked. I cut off the second (yellow) one. The last of the four workers (blue) remains.

For order, the last (blue) also needs to be docked between the fourth and fifth risers, but I don't do that. I cut it BEYOND the fourth stand (shown in a box) and build it up with a green tube to continue weaving. I cut off the third worker (green). Phew ... finished docking. Next, I will show it one more time to secure it. :)

Then I spread the double uprights and weave with a "string" into 2 tubes. So, in the square I showed the working tube, already extended with green. In the circle - I glued the second working tube. And in the triangle I showed how I spread the stanchions with a knitting needle. Go...

I weave a "string" with two tubes.

The old mark of the beginning of the row (in a circle) was left behind, since I continued weaving the last of the four tubes of the "gray" row, and did not start the row where it should start. As a result, this is not noticeable and, I just make a different mark for the beginning of the row (shown in the square). In the triangle there is a transition to the "return rope".

I wove 3 rows. I marked the places of transitions with circles. In the square, I showed how long the tip I cut when building.

I try on the bottom of the box on the shape - it's time to make a smooth transition to the walls.

I built such a structure: a spinning circle, on it a bucket of paint, on it a weight for weighting (it is under an aluminum mold), a form on which a wicker round and again a weight. I put all this on a stool and a whip. In each row, I bend the uprights down a little bit so that the weave fits smoothly to the shape. Wet straws are elastic and easily take the required shape.

I lower the risers below. I do not forget to make the transition to the "forward" and "backward" rope in the marked place. The distance between the risers is less than 2 cm, so I don't double them.

The risers are at the bottom and you can turn the shape over.

At a height of 4.5 cm, I begin to weave a string of 4 tubes. I added additional tubes (put them next to the risers and bent them). Shall we repeat the lesson? The first stand is marked with a pink thread, I painted the tubes in the same order as last time. I weave a row.

Weaved a row. I’m sticking. It's half past three in the morning, so no comment.

Docking is complete. I build up the blue tube, mark again the beginning of the row with a pin and ...

I add 3 working tubes for weaving the second row.

2 gray rows of 4 tubes are already ready. Here is the result. The joints are not visible. The fold remains.

Before weaving the folds, I moisten the risers with water so that they fit better. For this I use a soft brush. I bend one stanchion FOR one, BEFORE two, down.

The second stand is again FOR one, BEFORE two, down.

The rest are the same. At the same time, I TILT the bend inside the braid.

Remaining 3 last stand.

I put the first (red) in the same way BEFORE one, BEFORE two and DOWN

I put the second one (yellow) in the same way.

All three are stacked. The joint is invisible. Hooray!!! WITH bottom finished!

I'm starting to make the lid. I cut out 2 circles with a diameter of 8 cm from thick cardboard. Along the circumference, using a ruler, I put marks at a distance of 1 cm. Then (important!) I draw radii to them from the center. I cut mugs out of flax bigger size, I put a seam "needle forward" along the edge, then to pull the fabric. I put a synthetic winterizer on the cloth circle, a cardboard circle on top and tighten it with a thread. Since the marks on the circle remained under the fabric, when gluing the tubes I focus on the radii. On the right, she showed a ready-made soft circle from the inside out.

I glue the risers with hot glue. There were 26 of them.

I glued the risers. It remains to glue the second soft pad.

Ready. You can start to weave, but STOP! I forgot something. I will weave a string of 4 tubes, so I take the tubes moistened with water and glue them between the risers with hot glue (I marked them in yellow). The working tubes are wet, the risers are dry.

I weave a "string" of 4 tubes.

The gray row is finished In a yellow circle, she showed where the last of the four working tubes was extended in green. There is a joint in a black oval. The row does not fit snugly against the mug. This means that the circle on the wrong side needs to be made larger next time.

I whip "straight" and "reverse rope", marking with a pin the stand on which I make the transition.

I wove 4 rows. This is what the transitions look like. The distance between the risers has increased, it's time to double them.

I weaved 3 more rows and substituted 4 working tubes for weaving the gray "string".

The gray string is ready.

Trying on the form. Yes .... it was necessary to start a smooth transition to the wall earlier, but it just so happened. Next time I will do less stanchions. I marked the transitions in yellow.

Built the pyramid again.

I spread the stanchions, helping with a thick knitting needle.

I weave a "string" into 2 tubes. It is necessary to simultaneously raise the stanchions and lower them when weaving. The distance between them is very small - uncomfortable. But what can you do ... did not fit into the shape. : (I'll take it into account next time.

I continue to weave and lower the stanchions.

Since the weaving is bent down, the distance between the uprights hardly increases. Weaving is inconvenient. :(

The stands had to be lowered quite steeply - in just 5 rows. I turn it over.

I continue to weave upright. Closely, wet tubules shaggy. I hide this disgrace as best I can.

Since it is impossible to try on the lid with protruding risers, then weaving by eye, not very tight to the shape. Or I take out the form, try it on to the base of the box and estimate approximately how much the lid should be wider than the form.

The height of the lid is 5 cm. The height of the bottom of the box is the same BEFORE the gray volumetric rims. I cut off the working tubes.

Since the distance between the risers is small, there is nowhere to hide them - I cut them off. : (((

Many thanks to Sovenok (Paper Owl) for such a detailed, intelligible, incredibly useful master class. Her boxes are the most luxurious of all that I have seen!

“Good time of the day, dear residents of the Land of Masters! I fulfill my promise to make an MK by weaving a box with a lid. In no case do I pretend to be the ultimate truth, but I'll just tell you how I do it. I hope that this MK will be useful to you too.

2.
Adaptations: a plastic salad bowl (its top diameter is 23 cm, from the bottom - 16 cm, its height is almost 6 cm), a foam ball with a diameter of 10 cm (it is pasted over with paper, therefore 10.5 cm), a 1.4 mm needle on which I twist the tubes, a knitting needle 4 mm, which I use to spread the tubes and poke holes between them. The photo lacks a glue gun, with which I glue the crosspiece from the tubes to start weaving, and the weight.

3.
I twist the tubes from printing newsprint (in rolls). I twist strips 35 cm long and 7 cm wide on a 1.4 mm needle. The finished tube thickness is slightly more than 3 mm.
When weaving, the working tubes are always moistened with water so that they become elastic. For risers I always use dry tubes and try not to bend or break them as much as possible.
Since during the weaving of the previous box (its tapering part), the risers made of printing paper were pretty “frayed”, I specially prepared for them the required number of tubes made of consumer paper. In the process of weaving, I will replace all the risers with new ones and use them for the fold. Hopefully consumer paper will perform better than looser typographic newsprint.

4.
For staining the tubes, I used Novbytkhim water stain (without the addition of varnish and primer) and stamp paint. I diluted stains and paint only with water. I applied three colors of the tubes: 1 - Mocha + a little Mahogany + water = brown, 2 - Lemon + Mahogany + water = yellow-orange, 3 - blue stamp paint + a little Rosewood + water = dirty turquoise.
Since the bottom of the box had already been woven before the start of the MK shooting, we will have to start with a verbal description, namely, with the calculation of the number of tubes. I measure the circumference of the shape (salad bowl) at the widest point = about 72 cm.Since when weaving, I try to maintain the distance between the stanchions of no more than 1.5 cm, then 72 / 1.5 = 48 stanchions I need at the widest point of the box. Since, in the process of weaving the bottom from the center, I have to double the uprights, I start dividing the resulting figure by 2 to determine the number of uprights for the cross: 48/2 = 24. Then 24/2 = 12. Perhaps enough to divide. 12 risers can be obtained by making a cross from 6 tubes (each with two ends).

5.
I begin to weave the bottom. I splice the tubes in two and use a glue gun to glue them into a crosspiece of 3 × 3 tubes. I braid the cross with two rows of ordinary rope. I spread the stand-ups one at a time and continue weaving with a string. In the process of weaving, after 3-4 rows, I double the stanchions and after the 7th row I spread them one at a time. Again I continue to weave, again I double the stanchions and after the 8th row I spread them one at a time. I weave a couple more rows and, while the bottom is still flat, I put it on the form (salad bowl). I put a weight on top and braid the shape almost to its top.

6.
The result is in the photo. If you look at the ruler, you can see that it was possible to maintain the distance between the uprights of 1.5 cm.

7.
Weaving is primed, without removing it from the mold: with a brush I impregnate with a primer deep penetration(or “under the wallpaper”). I'm waiting for it to dry well. After drying, the weave becomes hard and crackles when pressed. Priming helps to maintain the shape of the finished part of the product during further weaving without a template.

8.
I take the well-dried lower part of the box out of the mold and put a ball inside it. In the process of weaving, I will apply it from the inside to the front wall of the product and press the risers against it to give the wall a rounded shape. For the convenience of weaving, in addition to the ball, it would be nice to place a weight in the center on the bottom, but I don't have it. Rolling up the ball to each stand, I press each stand to the ball, trying to "look" into the center of the bottom and not deviate to the sides. The weaving without a form is looser for me than on a form, so I try to press the rows closer to each other.

9.
This photo shows the process of replacing the risers. Last time, when weaving the tapering part of the box, the stanchions got frayed very quickly, and half broke. Perhaps it was not noticeable in the photo, but there was such a problem. This time I decided to replace the uprights in the process of weaving with others (from consumer paper), thereby catching a couple of bunnies at once. Now you don't have to worry - the length of the risers is definitely enough for bending. I hope that the consumer paper will behave more steadily and that the tubes will withstand all manipulations and subsequent folding. With scissors, I cut the stakes at as large an angle as possible, greased the sections with glue and put in new stakes.

10.
I continue weaving on new stands. Since the box is designed in three colors, I gradually introduce a yellow-orange color, imitating melange. Then dirty turquoise.

11.
In the process of weaving the tapering part of the stand, I carefully collect it into a bundle in a spiral. Then I take out the ball and weave it without a shape. In order to further narrow the shape of the box, I periodically press down a bunch of risers with my hand.

12.
It's time to complete the box. I substitute another working tube and weave one row of string from three tubes.

13.
The last row of three-tube string is complete. The distance between the uprights has become a little less than 1 cm. In order to weave the “rod” bend, I cut the uprights “at the root” through one with pliers. The distance between the remaining uprights has become 2 cm. This will make it possible to weave the “rod” fold without any problems and hide the tails inside the box.

14.
Before weaving the bends, I moisten the stanchions. I usually do this with a small, stiff brush. The photo shows the first stage of weaving a "rod" bend of three tubes: auxiliary tubes (blue) are substituted for ease of completion.

15.
The photo shows the next stage of weaving the "rod", which is repeated until the end of the row.

16.
The bending of the “rod” is completed. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the ends of the tubes stick out slightly upward. Since the walls of the box are not vertical, but "piled up" inward, the end plane of the fold is also inclined towards the inside of the box. And the stanchions tend to be located in the same plane.

17.
I begin to hide the "tails". If the tubes are dry, I moisten them again with a brush to give them elasticity. This is important at this stage. With a thick knitting needle, I pave the way for the tube and then I stretch the tip of the stand into the hole formed. In the photo I showed with a red line the place where I am trying to lay the stand.

18.
Here, the first stand is shown with a red line, which has already been laid in place between the bending tubes (removed from the other side)

19.
In this photo, the finished fold with the risers stretched inside the product. I will trim them after priming and drying.

20.
And this is the result of the work done. I proceed to the lid.

21.
The calculation of the number of risers for the cover cross was done according to the method described above, based on the circumference of the finished cover. The finished lid diameter will be 16.5-17 cm (including the fold). I start to weave the lid. I splice the tubes 2 at a time and glue the 4x4 crosspiece with hot glue. I apply a square to keep the right angle. Pay attention to the joints of the tubes. I specially arrange them so as to cover them with working tubes.

22.
I moisten the working tubes and start weaving. I bend one tube (usually by 2/3) and bend around the crosspiece to start weaving. I lash 2 rows with a rope. Usually I do this on the weight, and not on the table, wrapping the crosspiece.

23.
The next rows are already on the table. To keep the angles, I put a sheet of paper drawn at the required angles under the weaving and combine the uprights with the lines on the paper. Next, I divide the stanchions by 2 and weave 3 rows with a rope

24.
3 rows of rope are ready. I share the risers one at a time. To avoid creases, I help with a thick knitting needle. Next, weave 4 rows with a string.

25.
Doubling the stanchions. Next, you need to weave 4 more rows and again divide the stanchions one at a time. Then 5 more rows of rope.

26.
The last 5 rows are woven. I moisten the risers with a brush and begin to weave the "rod" fold.

27.
The lid on the table is facing up (top). At the beginning of weaving, I again use the auxiliary tubes (blue).

28.
From the outside, it looks like this.

29.
The fold is half-braided.

30.
Once again, a photo of the process of weaving the fold closer, from the side opposite to me.

31.
The folding is completed. All uprights stick out on the front (top) side of the cover.

32.
I begin to stretch the risers to the seamy (lower) side of the lid in order to weave the inner side on them. At the same time, I put the stanchions in the direction of their natural inclination - to the right. With a thick knitting needle, I pre-make a hole for each stand. I make a hole by stepping back from the edge of 2 rows of rope and 2 stanchions to the right. With red lines, she showed how she counted 2 rows down and 2 standing posts to the right.

33.
I continue the process. The uprights on the left have already been stretched to the wrong side.

34.
Ready! All the standoffs are on the inner (bottom) side of the lid, and on the outer side, a nice pigtail is obtained.

35.
To weave the inner side, I use a cylinder twisted from a strip of cardboard. Its diameter can be adjusted with ordinary clothespins and can be used many times to weave the inner rims of the lids. different sizes and not only lids. Conveniently. For the cylinder I used cardboard boxes made of candy.

36.
To form the inner side, I wove 2 rows of ordinary rope. Next, there will be a fold, which will add a little more height to the side.

37.
The fold is very simple: I lay each stand in front of two adjacent ones and fold it inward. I like the way it looks from the outside and from the end, that the ponytails are inside the lid, but I don't like the way the cut stumps look afterwards . I will try something else.

38.
The folding is completed.

39.
Preparing the cover for priming. I cut the ends of the risers, but not at the root. The final pruning will be done after the primer has completely dried.

40.
The fitting of the lid was successful! The inner edge enters the base of the box with little effort. It was not for nothing that I suffered with its adjustment last time, but now I have all the moves (rows) written down!

41.
Boldly primed lid and basket. The primer absorbs well into the paper. I do not regret it, I saturate it.

42.
I decided to dry the lid in this form - on a cardboard cylinder. This can help pull the inner flange of the lid a little so that it slides freely into the base.

43.
I cut off the risers on the lid and the box.

44.
To be honest, I don't really like how the selected colors are combined on the box. Therefore, I decided to try to fix the situation with patina. I hope it will smooth out the transitions and make the colors “friendly”. Mixed white and brown acrylic paints... There is very little brown.

45.
I apply the patina with a foam sponge.

46.
This is what the box looks like after the patina has been applied. I dried it for a couple of hours and applied varnish. I do not apply varnish thickly and rub in with a hard brush. I try not to shine. I use Poli-R varnish for saunas.

47.
Ready! You can admire the work done.

48.

49.

50.

I hope that this master class will be useful to you and my efforts will not be wasted. I tried very hard and was in a hurry to finish it today, so I took the final photos of the finished work in a hurry, without waiting for the “lucky” sun. I ask you to forgive me for this. I am waiting for your comments, suggestions, corrections. I wish everyone great mood and success in your work! According to my tradition, in a separate blog of mine, I am embarrassed to answer NOT all the comments, but I will definitely answer ALL questions. Agree, it's more convenient: if they answer, then there is a question on the case! shake your hand"

On their own, it is possible to create functional things from quite standard items that are usually sent to the trash can. The proof is the photo of caskets made of newspaper tubes. The preparatory work and the weaving itself will take some time, but the result is worth the effort.

Preparation of materials

To bring to life the idea of ​​caskets made of newspaper tubes, you will need materials:

• A4 newsprint paper packaging.
• Stationery knife.
• Scissors.
• The glue is the moment of carpentry.
• Water-based stain (any color).
• Water based varnish.
• Round shape for braiding (you can use a pan).
• Gloves.
• Knitting needle or kebab skewer.

At the first stage of preparation, you need to cut the sheets of paper in half, along the long side. Already from the finished strips, the formation of the future vine begins. To do this, a sheet is wound on a skewer so that a tube eventually comes out. The corner is greased with glue and the workpiece is fixed. Done, now we do the same operation with all the sheets.

The preparation of the vine provides for its further staining. To do this, you can use a water stain to which varnish is added. For approximately every 0.5 liters of dye, 10-15 tablespoons of varnish will be needed.

Using a brush that is five centimeters or more wide, begin painting the vine. To speed up the process, you can take a whole bunch, the main thing is to make sure that the material is completely painted over.

Dry newspaper tubes should be in placer, so that air circulates freely between them. A vine painted with water stain can drain, therefore, from time to time, batches of harvested tubes must be turned over.

Stages of weaving the box

Detailed instructions on how to make a box with your own hands will be given below. But before starting work, you need to learn how to weave from a paper vine like:

• An ordinary rope. It is woven by crossing two working tubes around each rack. The front vine starts behind the next stem tube, and the back one goes to the front.
• Chintz. For its implementation, the number of racks must be divided by 3 plus or minus 1. One or more combined working tubes are wound in one and laid behind the next main vine.

Bottom preparation

To make it, you need cardboard, glue, decoupage napkins and an impromptu press. First of all, two circles of the required diameter are cut. The latter depends on the chosen form for braiding. Each workpiece is painted in White color and primed (with glue and water 1: 1).

After drying, the circles are painted over with a layer of varnish and a napkin with the pattern you like is applied. Using a wide, clean brush dipped in varnish diluted with water 1: 1, level the surface of the picture. Leave to dry.

After that, between two cardboard circles, the working tubes are fixed (using PVA glue) and the workpiece is placed under the press until it is completely dry. In shape, it resembles the sun. Photos of caskets made of newspaper tubes with a similar bottom can be seen below. The distance between the tubes should not exceed 2 cm, but should not be less than 1.2 cm.

Weaving caskets

Having chosen a weaving pattern, in our case chintz, let's get to work. How to weave a box correctly step by step:

• We place the bottom blank under the form, which needs to be made heavier by putting a bag with cereals or a dumbbell in it.
• We raise the working tubes. The right one always winds up under the left one and rises upward. The procedure is repeated with all racks.
• We weave the first row with a regular string, and the subsequent ones with chintz. If you have got an even number of racks, then the chintz should be done simultaneously with two tubes.
• You can close the weaving with a string next to it.
• We fill the working vine into the netting and drip glue near each exit of the main tubes.
• After drying, we cut it to the root of the rack.
• We prime and let it dry, and then we cover it with varnish.

As it turned out, it is not difficult to learn how to make caskets from tubes yourself, the main thing is to master the basic techniques and technologies of its manufacture. One of them is the correct build-up of working tubes. For this, the edges of the vine are cut obliquely, greased with glue and inserted into one another. In this way, you can eliminate unpainted sections from the material.

Cover weaving

To make it, you need to put crossed, double or triple tubes on the desktop. The ends of the sun should be the same as those used when weaving the main element.

We put the newspaper vine folded in half on any pair of the main one and begin to weave with an ordinary rope until the moment when it will be necessary to separate the pairs. After that we make a few more rows and smoothly move on to the pattern in the form of a spiral.

When the diameter of the bottom of the box itself is reached, the weaving should again go in even rows, one after another. We lift the tubes and weave five more rows with a string. We strengthen each base tube with glue after drying, cut them off. We repeat the processes taking place with the box.

The master class on caskets made of newspaper tubes is completed. In this kind of products, you can store both jewelry and food products. At the discretion of the craftswoman, it is possible to sew a cover made of natural fabric for her and attach various decor. May your hands never fail you!

Photo of caskets made of newspaper tubes

The article will present you master classes and photos finished works for the manufacture of caskets from newspaper tubes.

Weaving a rectangular box and a box of newspaper tubes: master class, photo

Baskets and boxes woven from newspaper tubes have a special beauty and charm. Visually, this material resembles a natural vine. The advantage of such products is that for their manufacture you do not need to collect the vine and weave crafts, putting a lot of effort into this (this can be quite difficult and even traumatic).

Twisting a tube from a newspaper sheet is quite simple:

• Flatten the newspaper sheet
• Take a long wooden skewer
• Smear newspaper sheet a layer of glue
• Starting from a corner (any), start twisting the tube
• Lubricate the edge of the tube well with glue and fix it tightly.
• Thus, you should twist a lot of tubes from which you will weave the product.

There are several basic forms of "newspaper" boxes:

• Square
• Rectangular
• Oval
• In the shape of a heart
• Round

IMPORTANT: You can weave the base of the box yourself, but you can also make the base out of cardboard. Such cardboard should be double and the inside of it can be covered with fabric.

What can be stored in these boxes:

• Cosmetics
• Decorations
• Sewing kit
• Keys
• Kits for creativity and more

You can set the shape of the basket by putting something rectangular: a book, a notebook, a box, a package from something. The ends of each tube should be attached to the mold with clothespins for an easy process. Neat and comfortable. You can also weave a lid on a woven box (it should be 1 cm more box in diameter). Ready product decorate to your liking or the style of your interior.

How to decorate a woven basket:

• Paint with any acrylic paint
• Open with varnish
• Decorate with ribbons
• Decorate with lace
• Glue rhinestones, bows, sparkles
• Decorate in the style of "decoupage" or "scrapbooking", as well as much more!

Rectangular box made of newspaper tubes, decorated in Japanese style

Video: "How to weave a chest out of newspaper tubes?"

Weaving from newspaper tubes of a square box and box: patterns, schemes, description

A box woven from newspaper tubes can also have many of its successful uses:

• For storing logs
• For storing jewelry
• For storing clean or dirty laundry
• For storing children's toys
• For storage of writing utensils
• For storing old photos and more.

You can decorate your interior with such wicker boxes and caskets. Several identical products can be weaved in different diameters: from small to large.

A row of identical boxes and caskets woven from newspaper tubes

Large weave box with clasp

Interior decoration of boxes (cardboard box, covered with fabric)

How is a cardboard box tied with newspaper tubes?

In order to create beautiful patterns in weaving caskets, you will need schemes:

Simple circuit for beginners Knitting pattern and bottom: detailed scheme What can be weaving: the most common patterns

Video: "The original box-casket made of newspaper tubes"

Weaving caskets and boxes from newspaper tubes with a lid: patterns, diagrams, description

A box or box, woven from newspaper tubes, is very nicely complemented by a lid. The lid can hide the contents of the box and decorate the product. The lid of the box can be decorated with pictures, photographs, bows, lace, ribbons and more.

In order for the lid to fit well on the box, it must be 1 cm larger in diameter than the box itself. You can also make a box with a hinged lid, which will be closed with a hook or eyelet.

Box with a hinged lid

Wicker box with a regular lid

What is important in weaving a casket or box. Work description:

• Prepare all materials in advance, having in stock a large number of newspaper sheets.
• Roll up a large number of straws to make your job easier
• You can use any item as a basis and form for tying suitable shape, for example, a book or a cardboard box.
• It is advisable to make the bottom of cardboard, as this will facilitate your work, but you can weave it yourself. Wicker bottom ideal for garments big size, storage boxes, for example.
• To keep the product neat, do not forget to attach the tubes to the mold and carefully tie each twig.
• Use a small metal knitting needle or crochet hook to thread the tubes neatly and tie beautiful knots.

What weaving can be used to create a casket: schemes

Video: "Weaving from newspapers: box, master class"

Weaving from newspaper tubes oval caskets and boxes

The oval box, woven of newspaper tubes and decorated to your liking, looks very gentle and original. Every needlewoman must have such a vintage box, because it is very practical to place any set for needlework in it: threads, fabrics, beads, beads and much more. Also, such boxes are useful for storing cosmetics and much more.

Weaving such a box is not difficult, because you can take any shape for the base: a glass, a cup, a plate, a jar, a vase. The bottom of the box can not be woven, but made of cardboard, covered with cloth.

Round box decorated in vintage style

How to weave a round box?

Round box with lid

They will help in creating beautiful newspaper boxes detailed diagrams weaving with job descriptions:

Weaving a round box or dish from newspaper tubes: a diagram

Weaving, patterns, deep round box with a lid

Round casket and other products from newspaper tubes: weaving

Video: "Delicate box made of newspaper tubes"

Weaving from newspaper tubes caskets and boxes heart

Weaving a heart-shaped box is a little more difficult, but quite possible. To do this, you should use a heart-shaped cardboard base that can be covered with fabric.

Work description:

• Cut two identical hearts out of cardboard
• The size of the hearts should match the preferred size of the box
• It is advisable to choose thick cardboard for work.
• Roll newspaper tubes in advance
• Using glue, glue the tubes around the entire diameter of the cardboard heart, fix with clothespins and hold them until the glue dries completely.
• Then remove the clothespins
• Cover the second bottom with a cloth on one side, fix it with clothespins and glue it, let it dry.
• Place the base shape in the center of the cardboard base and start braiding by attaching the tips to the edge of the shape.
• After completing the weaving, glue the heart covered with fabric to the bottom of the box.

The base of the box is in the shape of a heart and the tubes for weaving glued to it

Use a heart-shaped box as a basis for weaving the box.

Heart-shaped box made of newspaper tubes

Video: "Box of newspaper tubes in the shape of a heart, with roses"

Weaving a round box and a box of newspaper tubes

Round box can become your favorite thing in the interior and an item for storing personal belongings, it can be stored in a conspicuous place, or it can be hidden in a closet. Depending on your preferences, you can knit a product of any depth and diameter.

Large round box

Round box with a lid, decorated with flowers

Jewelry box in vintage style

In creating a beautiful box, weaving patterns from newspaper tubes will come in handy:

Patterned patterns of weaving from newspaper tubes

Weaving methods: schemes

Video: "Round miracle box made of newspaper tubes"

Weaving from newspaper tubes caskets and boxes "apple"

The "apple" box looks very original and interesting. It is easy to store any trifle in such a box, it can also be used instead of a candy box or a housekeeper.

What is important to know, job description:

• You can use a regular small flower pot as a mold or base.
• Thus, you can knit a product to increase the volume.
• When you get to the middle of the piece, c = reduce the diameter of the weave and round off the edges.
• The lid for the "apple" is a little more difficult to knit, you can make a regular flat lid or with a recess (hole) for the tail.

Box "apple" from newspapers

Weaving caskets "apple"

Master class on making a box.

Weaving from newspaper tubes is a creative process in which a craftsman creates amazing products from newspapers, almost indistinguishable in appearance from ordinary rattan braids. It can be beautiful boxes, vases, boxes, pots, various stands and many more interesting and unexpected things.

Materials and tools

For making newspaper tubes

newspapers

needle 1.5 mm thick or wooden skewer

paper glue

tassel

pencil

ruler

utility knife or scissors

To create a wicker box

the box to be braided

elastic band, clothespins or paper clips to fix the tubes

instant glue

tweezers

decoration items - paints, varnish, fabrics, ribbons (ideas for decoration can be found in the article "Decorating a box of newspaper tubes")

Progress

Straw making process

The creation of any product begins with the preparation of materials. In the technique of weaving from newspapers, work is carried out with tubes or paper vine.

A tube is the material created by winding a strip of newspaper onto a knitting needle or other similar tool. The tube is a round, spiral-wound strip of paper.
A paper vine is a flattened tube that resembles a ribbon or vine.

Products made from tubules and vines come out very different. It is a little easier to weave from a vine, but products from tubes look more elegant and neat.

Making straws is a simple but painstaking process.

We line the newspaper page horizontally into strips 9 cm wide. If the pages are doubled, they should be cut in half.

We cut the sheets along the marked lines using scissors or stationery knife and rulers.

You should get these stripes.

Apply a knitting needle at an angle to the edge of the strip.

The angle of inclination of the spoke relative to the newspaper will determine what kind of tube you get. The larger the angle, the longer and more vulnerable to rupture the tubule will be. The smaller the angle, the shorter and tougher the tube, respectively. We need both long and short tubes. The more flexible and longer ones are used for weaving the walls, and the more rigid and durable ones are used for the frames. The main thing is not to make very large or very small corners. It is more difficult to work with such tubes, they are either very fragile and hardly bend. Basically, I make the tubes at angles between 45 ° and 60 °.

We begin to tightly wind the paper around the knitting needle.

It is not necessary to glue the beginning of the tube; for a firm fixation, it is enough to apply a drop of glue at the end. Apply glue to the corner of the newspaper with a brush and press it with your fingers.

Then carefully remove the tube from the knitting needle.

The thickness of the straw above and below should be slightly different. Due to this difference, it will be easy for us to increase the length of the tubes.

Weaving from newspaper tubes

We take the box, which we will braid, and cut off the top covers

When the straws and box are ready, you can start the creative process. There are many types of weaving. After a little practice, you can come up with different patterns yourself. In this article, we will look at the simplest weaving. We will pass the tube through one, in layers. Despite its simplicity, this weave looks very good on the finished product.

We start to make the frame. To do this, at the bottom of the box, you need to make a markup along which vertical tubes (racks) will go. There should be an odd number of them, they should be located approximately at the same distance from each other. The distance should not be very large, but the tubes should not be placed end-to-end. The distance depends on how often we will weave. The smaller the distance between the posts, the denser and finer the weaving will be. I took 3 cm for a step. Regardless of the distance between the tubes, there must be stands at the corners of the box. This will make the weave more pronounced and neat.

When the markup is ready, glue the tubes there. This will be the frame of our box. When creating a framework, it is more convenient to use instant glue.

Now the box must be carefully turned, and all the tubes must be lifted up and fixed with an elastic band or clothespins.

To create the first row, simply rotate each post for the next one.

Then we glue an additional tube to the bottom of the box, with which we will weave the walls, constantly increasing it.

We begin to braid the racks with a tube, so that there is an alternation: we braid the first rack from the outside, the second from the inside, and so on.

When the tube ends, it needs to be extended. To do this, take another tube, insert the narrow end into the wide one and fix it with glue.

Thus, you can braid the box to the very top. But for more beautiful design I suggest adding a row of satin ribbon... To do this, we add to the middle of the box and finish the row.

The tube, which was woven, is carefully glued to the rack and cut off.

Then we weave up to the very top in the usual way, as they did before. When the wicker part is level with the edges of the box, we finish. Gently fix the tube that was braided with glue.

We hide the remaining tip behind the counter. It is convenient to do this with tweezers.

You should get such a box with protruding racks.

You can finish in different ways, someone just bends the stoics inward, someone fixes it with glue or weaves it with a pigtail. I like this method most of all: we take the stand, count two more from it and hide it behind the third, passing it between the stand and the weaving.

It is also convenient to do this with tweezers. The top is beautiful, finished and does not require the use of glue.

Weaving is over. The box is ready and in order to become a beautiful decorative element, it only lacks the finishing. For decoration, you can use paints, fabrics, decoupage, beads.