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Hair chemistry composition. How to do a perm at home: necessary tools and preparations, instructions. Care after chemotherapy, or how to extend the life of curls

Thrush

All modern preparations intended for perming hair, must meet several important requirements:

  1. ensure stable and long-term preservation of curls - for at least three months.
  2. Do not affect the natural color of the hair.
  3. Contain in its composition special substances designed to ensure proper wetting and impregnation of the strands.
  4. Have a slight scent of perfume and do not cause allergic reactions.
  5. Be easily washed off.


REFERENCE:
One of the most important characteristics inherent in hair perm compositions is the pH level.

The higher its value, the more active the effect it has on the condition of the hair structure, and, therefore, the more it contributes to the destruction of keratin.

Depending on its composition and the nature of the effect on the hair, The following types of compositions are distinguished: for perming hair:

  • alkaline permanent;
  • acid-balanced permanent;
  • soft alkaline permanent;
  • gel-like product;
  • foam-like permanent.

For each of the listed types characterized by their own individual characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

Pros and cons of each type of drug

Alkaline permanent is a classic option means for perming curls of any type. It is based on thioglycolic acid. Depending on the amount of ammonia content, the pH level of such compositions can vary from 8.5 to 9.5.

Alkaline permanents used for exceptionally healthy hair. The main advantage of this composition is creating bouncy curls, which do not lose their appearance over a long period of time.

However, such drugs have a number of significant disadvantages:

  1. a pungent and unpleasant odor resulting from substances such as hydrogen sulfide and mercaptan.
  2. Aggressive impact on the hair structure – thinning and weakening of it.

Acid-balanced permanents based on glyceryl monothioglycolate. They begin to act only after mixing with the activator - as a result of this, a chemical reaction occurs, during which a significant amount of heat begins to be released and the composition heats up to approximately 40 degrees and, therefore, The curling process is significantly accelerated.

Among the main advantages inherent in this type of composition, it should be noted:

  • pH level as close as possible to natural – from 5 to 7;
  • softer and more gentle action compared to alkaline options;
  • Possibility of use for weakened and frequently dyed hair;
  • obtaining a beautiful and lasting result.

The disadvantage of acid-balanced permanents is their slow action, which makes the procedure take a long time.

Soft alkaline permanent, based on amino acids, has the following advantages:

  1. absence of unpleasant pungent odor and harm to the respiratory system;
  2. soft and gentle effect;
  3. the most natural result.

The disadvantages of this type include the low durability of the result, as well as the occurrence of allergic reactions in the presence of individual intolerance to the components.

A permanent product with a gel-like texture, is widely used in cases where it is necessary to beautifully curl regrown roots.

note This product is the best option for short hair.

The advantages of this type of curling products include:

  • maximum ease of use - just squeeze out the required amount of product from the tube and distribute evenly over the hair using a brush.
  • Using a comb instead of bobbins to create the desired curl shape.
  • No aggressive components in the composition.

This product has no disadvantages.

The best products for the procedure

Many famous Manufacturers offer high quality perm products, which can be successfully used both in professional hairdressing salons and at home. Let's consider which options are most preferable?.


Perm technology.

Conclusion

Modern compositions for perming hair have a delicate composition and do not destroy their structure. The assortment of many manufacturers includes high-quality compositions that every lady Can be used even at home. Choose the best option and charm with flirty curls!

Hairdressing: A practical guide Konstantinov Anatoly Vasilievich

§ 32. Perm preparations

§ 32. Perm preparations

Manufactured hair perm preparations must meet the following requirements:

ensure the preservation of the curl for at least 3 months, even in the case of a haircut;

do not change the original hair color;

easy to wash off hair with warm water;

do not have an allergic or irritating effect on the skin and mucous membrane; have a perfume scent (not strong).

The basis of almost all currently produced hair perm preparations are organothio compounds and their derivatives. Most recipes for foreign preparations for perm contain thioglycolic acid CH2 - S - HCOOH.

Thioglycolic acid has reducing properties. Compounds belonging to the organothio group make it possible to influence the shape of the hair even at normal human body temperature. This, obviously, can explain the fact that organothio compounds are included in almost all preparations for perm. The major disadvantages of these compounds include the following:

due to the release of hydrogen sulfide and mercaptan in the air, they have a sharp, unpleasant odor;

are toxic and can cause painful phenomena - headaches, general malaise, decrease in the content of white blood cells, etc.

When studying the effect of a solution of thioglycolic acid on the human body when used in hairdressing, cases of diseases were noted in persons preparing solutions of thioglycolic acid: a decrease in the content of white blood cells, platelets, headaches, general weakness and malaise, gastrointestinal disorders, disruption of work kidney In addition, when working with solutions of thioglycolic acid, skin diseases were also observed: redness and dryness, cracks, dermatitis, sometimes blistering rash, itching, eczema, urticaria and nail damage. Such diseases can occur both in the hairdresser and in people who independently use such compositions.

As protective equipment for hairdressers, various bactericidal ointments, biological protective preparations, coating of nails with varnish, reducing the time of contact with harmful solutions and the use of gauze masks when working are recommended. It is not recommended to neglect protective equipment. Their skillful and correct use largely protects the hairdresser from direct contact with harmful compounds and their vapors. So, when winding hair onto bobbins, you should use rubber gloves. Having acquired the skill of working with gloves, you can perform this operation at the same speed as without gloves.

For chemical hair perming, hairdressing salons use the following preparations: “Londa” and “Mintox” (GDR), “Lokon” and “Zavitol” (USSR). In terms of the chemical composition and degree of impact on hair, “Londa” is close to “Lokon”, and “Zavitol” is close to “Mintox”. The similarity between the preparations "Londa" and "Lokon" is explained by the fact that they are prepared on the same basis. The percentage of the main component - thioglycolic acid - in the preparations "Londa" and "Lokon" is about 6.5%.

The Central Research Institute of Consumer Services tested the effect of various chemical perm preparations on hair. Hair strands 12 cm long of the same structure, normal structure, and medium hardness were taken. The test results were assessed by reducing the length of the strand after curling due to the formation of artificial

waviness due to the effects of drugs on the hair. In addition to the perm preparations listed above, the French preparation “Permabel” was used during testing. The exposure time of the drugs on the hair was 10, 20 and 30 minutes. The results of the tests are presented in table. 1.

Table 1. Change in the length of hair strands depending on the time of treatment with various preparations for perm

The table shows that the degree of impact of various drugs on hair is different, all other things being equal. When treating hair with Londa, after 10 minutes the length of the strand is reduced by 40%. When held for 20 minutes, the greatest reduction in strand length was observed - by 50% of the original length. When held for 30 minutes, the degree of curl of the strand decreased to 33% of the original length. This can be explained by the loss of the necessary elasticity in the hair as a result of a decrease in internal stresses in the keratin under the influence of the drug. Excessive exposure time has a harmful effect on the hair - it stretches even under its own weight. Thus, we can conclude that when curling hair with Londa, the exposure time should not exceed 20 minutes. This time can be increased only after the hairdresser checks the degree of curl of the hair. To do this, you need to remove the cap after 15 - 20 minutes and check three or four curls. Only after this can the exposure time be increased.

As can be seen from the table, the test results for the drugs “Lokon” and “Londa” are almost similar, therefore all recommendations for the use of the drug “Londa” also apply to “Lokon”.

The French drug "Permabel" is less effective on hair. This is explained by the lower content of thioglycolic acid in it (about 3%). When the hair was treated with Permabel, even after 30 minutes the hair did not lose its elasticity. Therefore, for this drug, 30 minutes of exposure are not critical. To achieve the same results in hair curling that can be obtained by treating hair with “Londa” and “Lokon”, the holding time for the drug “Permabel” should be 30 - 40 minutes.

The perm preparation "Mintox" has an even weaker effect on hair keratin, due to the fact that it does not contain thioglycolic acid. It consists mainly of the salts sodium sulfite (Na2SO3) and sodium bisulfite (NaHSO3). Similar to the drug "Mintox" is the domestic drug "Zavitol", which also does not contain thioglycolic acid. When the hair is exposed to the drug "Mintox" for 10 minutes, the hair strand is shortened by only 7%, after 20 minutes - by 17% of the original length. With a further increase in exposure time, the length of the hair strand does not change.

The perm preparation "Zavitol", like "Mintox", does not contain organothio compounds. The basis for this drug is sodium sulfide with a small addition of glucose, glycerin, pine extract and perfume. The absence of thioglycolic acid in the Zavitol formulation is a positive factor, despite the fact that it has a weaker effect on hair. "Zavitol" is much cheaper than all the drugs used and, in addition, is non-toxic. Like "Lokon" and "Londa", the drug "Zavitol" is used mainly for curling dyed and bleached hair. It can be used for curling and undyed hair. However, in this case it is not possible to get an equally good curl on all hair types. On hair that has not been dyed, it gives only a soft natural wave.

When perming hair, the composition, which acts as a reducing agent, acts on the keratin of the hair, breaking the cystine bond - S - S, which leads to damage to protein fibers and leads to loss of elasticity in the hair.

A protein, which is a compound with peptide bonds - CO - NH -, is a polycondensate of amino acids. Polypeptide chains of a protein can be expressed in general by the following scheme:

This compound, under the action of reducing agents, decomposes at the site of the cystine bond - S - S:

Once this bond is broken, the hair gains the ability to easily take on the shape given to it. They become plastic, and their ability to withstand physical and chemical influences drops sharply. When exposed to low concentrations of oxidizing agents, the cystine bond - S - S is restored, and the hair again acquires elasticity properties. However, due to the hydrolysis of keratin amino acids when exposed to perm preparations, some of the hair substance goes into solution, which entails a decrease in their mass. Consequently, when perming preparations act on hair, both reversible and irreversible processes occur. Reversible processes include the rupture and restoration of the cystine bond - S - S of hair keratin; irreversible processes include a decrease in hair mass due to hydrolysis of keratin amino acids.

Thus, when chemicals for curling interact with hair, chemical reactions occur, as a result of which the hair acquires the ability to maintain its shape.

A very important characteristic is the pH value of the drug used for perm hair. The higher the pH of the composition, the stronger its effect on the hair. When they are exposed to compositions of high concentrations, they swell the faster, the higher the concentration of the composition. Increasing the pH of the medium, i.e. alkaline composition, beyond 12 is unacceptable in hairdressing practice. With such a high pH value, not only the destruction of cystine bonds can occur, but also complete hydrolysis of the amino acids of hair keratin. When treating hair with such strong compounds, the duration of exposure and increased temperature are especially harmful. That is why most chemical compositions for curling and hair coloring have a pH of 9 - 11.

The Central Research Institute of Consumer Services also conducted studies to determine the degree of damage to hair as a result of exposure to various perm preparations. The degree of hair damage was determined using the following method: 50 ml of curling preparations were poured into a flask, heated to 50 °C and 0.5 g of hair was added there. The contents of the flask were mixed well and kept in a thermostat at a constant temperature of 50°C for 60 minutes. Then the solution was filtered and neutralized with a 5% acetic acid solution, washed with water and dried to constant weight at 105°C.

The degree of hair damage was determined by the weight loss of the sample. The research results are presented in table. 2.

Table 2 Degree of hair damage when exposed to various perm preparations

From consideration of the data given in the table, we can conclude that the degree of damage to hair when exposed to perm preparations depends on the properties of these preparations. Consequently, a drug that curls hair in an extremely short time can cause the greatest damage to hair, all other things being equal.

Particular care must be taken when working with the most concentrated preparations “Lokon” and “Londa”, since the likelihood of damage when treating hair with them is greatest.

From the book Great Soviet Encyclopedia (AN) by the author TSB

From the book Great Soviet Encyclopedia (GA) by the author TSB

From the book Great Soviet Encyclopedia (GO) by the author TSB

From the book Great Soviet Encyclopedia (MO) by the author TSB

From the book Great Soviet Encyclopedia (SK) by the author TSB

From the book Great Soviet Encyclopedia (SE) by the author TSB

From the book Great Soviet Encyclopedia (EN) by the author TSB

From the book Hairdressing: A Practical Guide author Konstantinov Anatoly Vasilievich

§ 16. Tools for curling and styling hair The following tools are used in hairdressing salons: for hair styling - curlers, clips and hair dryer; for hot curling - electric and conventional curling irons; for thermal curling - rods and banners; for perm - bobbins.

From the book The Most Popular Medicines author Ingerleib Mikhail Borisovich

§ 31. Thermal perm technology Long-term hair perm (permanent) has been known since 1904. The inventor of this type of hair treatment was the German Charles Neste. Permanent hair curling was a qualitatively new way of processing hair. The advantage of permanent wave

From the book Makeup [Brief Encyclopedia] author Kolpakova Anastasia Vitalievna

§ 33. Perm technology Preparatory work. To perform perm hair, the following tools and devices are needed: a porcelain or enamel bowl with a volume of at least 50 - 60 ml, stable enough so that it does not tip over during

From the book Home Medical Encyclopedia. Symptoms and treatment of the most common diseases author Team of authors

Insulin preparations General indications for prescribing insulin for patients with diabetes: Insulin-dependent diabetes. Ketoacidosis, diabetic coma. Significant weight loss. The occurrence of intercurrent diseases. Surgery. Pregnancy and lactation. Lack of effect

From the author's book

Curlers for precise eyelash curling These curlers are used to curl all eyelashes or several individual eyelashes in the corner of the eye (Fig. 17). They are made of stainless steel and equipped with six special pads. Rice. 17. Curlers for precision curling

From the author's book

Eyelash curlers Use these tweezers very carefully, as they can easily damage eyelashes and even eyes (Fig. 18). Rice. 18. Curling iron

From the author's book

Medications Self-medication, long-term uncontrolled use of medications also often causes chronic inflammation of the gastric mucosa. Damage to the gastric mucosa can be caused by taking medications such as

From the author's book

Sleeping pills For a long time, barbiturates were the main sleeping pills, but now they are practically not used in this capacity. They make it easier to fall asleep, but have too many disadvantages, the most important of which is a violation of the structure of the natural

From the author's book

HRT drugs To protect hormone-dependent structures (endometrium, mammary glands), drugs containing estrogens and progestogens are more often used. Biphasic drugs are most widely used. The package contains 21 or 28 tablets, and 10–12 of them (intended

Perm gained popularity in our country many years ago and remains in demand to this day. But only relatively recently did this procedure reach its perfection - it became possible to create hairstyles that are completely different from each other, in contrast to the Soviet period. These changes were influenced by innovative developments in the field of hair beauty and the latest preparations for perm.

Soviet-era “chemistry” greatly harmed the hair structure and looked very unnatural, and also required titanic efforts to care for and restore hair. But that didn’t make her any less popular.

Modern preparations for perm

A few years ago, a significant leap forward took place in the field of hair beauty - safe and effective preparations for perms were created. But the sequence and essence of the procedure remained the same - modification of the structure and shape of the hair.

The latest generation of specialized preparations not only does not harm hair health, but also has positive effects on restoring the natural structure. With minimal trauma to the hair structure, you can now achieve a spectacular result.

The latest generation of preparations contains active chemical elements responsible for the formation and consolidation of curls, as well as caring “smart” substances that can self-distribute to the areas of hair most in need of strengthening.

Classification of perms

Most curling preparations basically contain organothio compounds and their derivatives, which can affect the structure and shape of the hair, modifying it regardless of temperature conditions.

An equally important indicator of the chemical composition is the pH value of hydrogen. The higher it is, the more actively the drug affects the hair, thereby increasing the likelihood of keratin dissolution and destruction of bonds.

Alkaline permanent for chemical styling

It is characterized by a classic composition, the main active ingredient is thioglycolic acid. Used for styling and curling natural, healthy hair, resulting in bouncy curls. Its pH level, depending on the percentage of ammonia, ranges from 8.5 to 9.5.

The main disadvantage of alkaline permanent is the release of harmful hydrogen sulfide vapors, which can cause side effects such as general malaise, headache, contact and other dermatitis.

Modern alkaline preparations are less aggressive to hair due to the presence of “smart” healing substances that restore damaged areas of hair and soften the effect of the chemical composition.

Acid-balanced permanent

Acid-balanced and neutral perm compositions do not contain aggressively strong alkalis, so they are not so harmful to the hair. Their main component is glyceryl monothioglycolate.

This product requires a special activator. When they are mixed, a chemical reaction occurs, as a result of which heat is released and the mixture heats up to 40 degrees. This helps speed up the curling process.

The effect of this composition is softer than alkaline, but the curls are not as elastic, and the styling process takes longer. This method is used on tired, weak and colored hair.

The main disadvantage of this product is that the curling power is short; the styling done with it will not last very long. But the hair will look more natural and not be afraid of the influences of nature and moisture.

Soft alkaline perm

This solution is more gentle than an alkaline solution; it does not harm the structure and health of the hair. It contains amino acids, so this perm can be called medicinal.

During the curling procedure, the hair receives a protein complex that restores and improves its structure. This installation is long-term.

The chemical solution is practically odorless and does not harm the skin or respiratory system. However, there is a high risk of an allergic reaction.

Gel-like product for long-term styling

This preparation is easily squeezed out of the package and is not particularly difficult to apply. It is convenient for styling in certain parts of the head. It is usually used for styling the regrown root layer of hair, adding volume to the roots of short hair, as well as for curling hair in the temporal region with short haircuts. The product is applied to the desired areas of the hair with a comb, giving it the required shape and volume.

Foaming product for permanent

This drug is the most harmless of all existing ones. Its gentle effect on the hair allows you to create volume without frizz.

Whatever chemical perm product you choose, before using it you need to make sure there are no allergic or side effects, and also consult with a specialist who will tell you which product is suitable for your hair type.

Hair perm technology, review of preparations for creating curls, perm on hair of different lengths and with different curl sizes.

The content of the article:

Perm hair is one of the most popular methods of adding volume and fullness to hair. After going through this procedure, the hair easily takes on the desired shape, and the hairstyle is maintained for a long time. This is a relatively recent technique that was developed in 1908. How long the hair will remain wavy depends on what chemicals were used, as well as the diameter of the curler.

Hair perm technology

Previously, perm was quite a risky undertaking. It had a detrimental effect on hair health. Modern technologies and preparations for curling are more gentle, they allow you to neutralize the negative impact on curls.

Rules for preparing for hair perm


To ensure high-quality and safe hair curling, you need to strictly follow the instructions. There are several stages of the technological process that precede the actual application of the curling preparation:
  1. Hair analysis. An analysis of the hair structure is carried out in order to select the optimal curling technology. Specialists in salons evaluate the following parameters: strength, elasticity, hair type, density. Thick hair does not curl well, since the drug practically does not penetrate into the hair. But weak, thin hair, on the contrary, does not tolerate strong hold curling. If the hair has low elasticity, then when curled it will stretch, but will not be able to return to its previous position. Curling will cause them to become deformed. Dry hair should also not be curled; it will tear and break.
  2. Head surface analysis. This stage is mandatory in order to identify the presence of injuries or diseases of the scalp. Perming in this case is contraindicated.
  3. Skin sensitivity test. To carry it out, you should soak a cotton swab in the curling preparation and apply it to the skin behind the ear, leave for 10 minutes. If there is no irritation, the drug can be used. If redness or rashes appear, the product should be immediately washed off with a solution of hydrogen peroxide and curling should be avoided.
  4. Drapery. This procedure should be carried out to protect skin and clothing from chemicals. It is necessary to remove earrings, other jewelry from the head, glasses, turn up the collar and wrap a towel around the neck. It should be fixed so that water does not get on clothes.
  5. Checking hair for chemicals. This procedure is carried out to determine the permissible concentration of the curling agent. To do this, separate a small strand of hair, moisten it with the preparation and leave for a couple of minutes. After this, the hair is checked for tearing. If they remain strong enough, they can be curled. If they look like tow, then the solution is too concentrated.
  6. . The hair perm procedure necessarily includes pre-washing your hair. When washing your hair, its scaly layer loosens, and this allows for better curling.
  7. Haircut. This stage is provided for in the instructions for perm. It can be done before or after curling. In the second option, it is easier to make a certain finished shape of wavy hair.
Having completed all the preparatory steps, you can begin applying the curling solution and winding your hair with bobbins or curlers.

Selection of preparations for hair perm


The principle of operation of any drug for curling curls is the same: when the hair is exposed to chemicals, its structure changes, and it easily takes on a new shape. The chemicals attack keratin, the protein in the hair. This weakens the cystine bonds between hair cells. Hair becomes deformed. Curlers or bobbins give the curls a new shape, and it is secured with a retainer. The latter restores cystine intercellular connections and fixes the shape of the curl.

The most important characteristic of a perm preparation is pH. Depending on what this indicator is, the drug can be acidic, alkaline or neutral. The alkaline preparation helps soften and swell hair. Acidic, on the contrary, provokes hardening of the hair.

There are several groups of drugs that are used for hair curling:

  • Acid based. Such products provide better fixation. Can be used on all hair types. They have the most powerful effect on hair. Acidic preparations have a lower pH level; curling using these products takes a little longer. The components of acidic preparations penetrate into the hair more slowly.
  • Alkaline based. This type of curling has a softer effect on the hair. It lasts for a shorter period of time and is not suitable for all hair types.
  • "Japanese perm". The basis of this composition is a lipid-protein complex. It is also gentle on the hair. The pH of this method is neutral, and therefore suitable for almost all hair types. Even dry and damaged hair can be curled with this group of drugs.
  • Amino acid based. Perm using this group of drugs allows you to restore damaged hair in the shortest possible time. True, it doesn't last long.
  • Acid based with thioglycolic acid. This type of curl weakens the strength of the hair, so it is not suitable for all types of curls. It is not recommended for use on smooth, straight hair.
  • Biocurls. They are allocated to a special group. This new type of perm has recently become very popular. The curling composition is based on cysteamine hydrochloride. There are 3 types of composition for bio-curling: for weakened or colored hair, for unruly hair that is difficult to curl, and for normal hair.

Almost all hair curling products are made on the basis of organothio compounds. They are the ones who contribute to changing the structure of curls.


Manufacturers often offer several types of curling preparations: for coarse hair, normal hair, porous hair, colored hair, highlighted hair, difficult to curl hair, and others.

As for fixatives, ready-made compositions are concentrated and non-concentrated. In addition, fixatives are prepared independently in beauty salons and at home. It is made from a mixture of water, shampoo and hydrogen peroxide. Moreover, the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the mixture should not exceed 3%.

Compositions for perming hair at home


Nowadays, the cosmetics industry produces a lot of different compositions for perm, fixation and aftercare. Therefore, you can do a perm even at home. True, for this you need to strictly follow the instructions for applying the drug to your hair so as not to burn it.

For home use, products are usually produced in two consistencies:

  1. Gel-like. Such compositions are conveniently squeezed out of the tube and are easy to apply to the hair with a brush. Preparations in the form of a gel are convenient to use for curling regrown roots on previously curled hair, for treating individual areas of the head, and for curling the temple area in short men's haircuts. In such cases, they do not use curlers or bobbins, but a comb. The gel is applied directly to the hair and the hair is given the desired shape with a comb.
  2. Foamy. This type of permanent is considered the most harmless for hair curling. As a result of its effect on the hair, it becomes more voluminous, and curls are practically invisible.
The good thing about these hair curlers is that they are safe enough for home use. It is difficult to burn your hair with them, and they are easy to apply. Perm compositions are produced by companies such as Londa, Schwarzkopf, Wella, Estel and other manufacturers.

Selection of hair curlers


The curlers that are used in the hair curling process determine the type of future curl. The most popular types of perms are:
  • On curlers. These are long foam sticks with a metal rod inside. They help create natural soft waves.
  • On stiletto heels. This type of curl is suitable for short hair. The studs must be special, non-metallic.
  • For bobbins. These are universal small curlers for perm. They come in rubber, wood, and plastic.
  • On curlers. For perming, they must be made of plastic. Thanks to the different diameters of the curlers, you can achieve different effects on your hair.
In addition, there are many types of fixation of curlers on hair, which also makes it possible to achieve interesting effects. For example, it has been popular lately to do a braided perm. In this case, the strands are braided into braids, the ends of which are twisted into special curlers.

Types of hair perm

The basis of any perm is a special product, as well as curlers. The result of the curl will depend entirely on what curlers you used in the process. There are many types of curlers. Using each specific type of curler allows you to achieve different curl shapes.

Large hair perm


Large, lush curls are a hairstyle that suits almost any woman. However, not every lady can boast of luxurious curls. This can be corrected with a large hair perm. With such a curl you will definitely not look like a lamb. True, the hair for such a hairstyle should be longer than average length.

Before making such a curl, choose the correct diameter of the curler. The larger it is, the larger the curls you will get in the end. You can also use “boomerangs” (papillots) of large diameter for this type of curling. The latter are easy to wrap around your hair.

Before perm itself, it is recommended to carry out a “rehearsal” and curl your hair using the selected type of curler without using a permanent. This way you can determine if this hairstyle suits you. Please note that after perm the curls will be more elastic.

You should also choose the diameter of the curler for large curls based on your hair type. Large curlers are not suitable for fine hair. Such hair does not hold its shape well, and curls curled with large curlers will look like light waves.

The American perm is very popular now. It allows you to get large curls using special large-diameter Olivia Garden curlers. They are fastened together with the help of teeth and folded on the head into a special design. These curlers do not leave creases in the hair, and the curls come out large and lush.

Fine hair perm


Fine perm is recommended for women with thin and not thick hair. As a rule, it is performed on short haircuts.

On medium-length hair, fine curling gives an “Afro-style” effect. It is characterized by ultra-volume, small curls and a spherical silhouette. Such volumes look especially impressive on naturally voluminous hair. True, it will not be easy to take care of such a hairstyle later. In addition, it is almost impossible to make a new hairstyle on such hair.

Fine curls can be achieved by doing a spiral perm on your hair. It is done using special knitting needles, rulers, curlers, and small spiral curlers. This type of perm should only be done in a beauty salon, since it is quite labor-intensive and very difficult to handle on your own. To make an “afro curl”, it will take up to 5 hours.

In order to get a lush spiral curl with an abundance of small curls, the master will have to use a lot of bobbins. The hair on them is twisted into thin strands using a special technology.

Medium hair perm


You can achieve a medium-sized curl using a fashionable vertical curl. For this type of curling, special cone-shaped long bobbins with holes for pulling strands are used.

It is optimal if they are made of wood or plastic. They allow you to curl the curl evenly along its entire length - from roots to ends. This is especially true for long hair, which is almost impossible to curl using the horizontal method.

This curl looks natural, the hair falls in elastic, uniform waves. Vertical curling is also convenient because it is easy to adjust as the hair grows. It is enough just to curl the root part of the hair. This will cause minimal damage to your hair.

The technology of curling hair during vertical curling is the reverse of the traditional one. Hair is curled from roots to ends.

Rules for performing perm on hair of different lengths

Perm on hair of different lengths is done using different methods. The most popular are vertical (for long hair) and horizontal (for short hair). You can do a perm at home. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions for applying the composition.

Perm technology for short hair


Before you start curling short hair at home, choose a gentle curling product and suitable curlers or bobbins. For short hair, small-diameter curlers are optimal. You will need an average of 20-30 of them.

We carry out the curling in this order:

  1. Wash your hair with regular shampoo and dry your hair with a towel.
  2. We divide the combed hair into a front part and a couple of sides.
  3. Lubricate the skin of the face and around the ears, which is in contact with the hair, with Vaseline or baby cream.
  4. We wind the strands on curlers or bobbins. Short hair should be curled, starting from the parietal area to the crown of the face, and then to the neck from the mid-occipital part of the head. It is best if you have bobbins of three diameters. The thickest ones are used for curling hair at the top of the head, the medium ones are used at the temples, and the thinnest ones are used at the back of the head.
  5. The width of the strands should be 1.5-2 cm less than the length of the bobbin. You need to curl your hair evenly, without tension. Make sure that no creases form.
  6. We moisten each turn generously with curling agent. This can be done conveniently with a sponge, brush or sponge.
  7. After all the hair is fixed and treated with a chemical, we put an insulating cap on the head.
  8. After waiting the time required according to the instructions, rinse the hair in the bobbins with water.
  9. Apply a fixing compound on top of the washed bobbin hair. Let stand for about 5 minutes.
  10. We remove the bobbins and treat the hair again with a fixative. Leave for another 5 minutes.
  11. We wash our hair with shampoo and rinse with acidified water.
  12. At the end of the procedure, you can also apply a biological fixative to your hair. It will strengthen the hair keratin, and this will have a positive effect on the appearance of the hair.

Note! It is not recommended to use a hair dryer to dry permed hair. This will affect them negatively.

Vertical curl for long hair


For this type of curling, bobbins are also used, but of a different shape - cone-shaped, elongated. Moreover, the longer the hair, the longer the bobbin should be. The technology for applying the composition is similar to that used for curling short hair. Only the procedure for winding the strands is different.

This is done like this:

  • Wash your head, comb your hair and divide the strands into equal squares. You should start from the back of the head. The size of the square must be no less than the diameter of the bobbin base. Otherwise they won't fit on your head.
  • We secure the hair with temporary clips.
  • Apply the curling preparation using a brush or sponge. Let's start from the ends.
  • We thread strands of hair through the hole near the base of the bobbin. We thread one end of the puller into the hole at the base of the bobbin on the side where the cone is thickened.
  • With your left hand, take a strand of hair moistened with a chemical preparation and pass it into the puller, fold it in half and pull it through the hole that is located at the base of the bobbin. Note that if the hair is too thick, then fold it in half closer to the ends so that the strand passes through the hole.
  • Curl the hair from the back of the head. We wind the strand around the base of the bobbin in a ring shape, evenly and tightly.
  • If your hair is too long, you can curl it in two rows. In this case, the curl will turn out large.
  • After all the curls are curled, put on the rubber clamp ring.
  • Wet the curled hair with the chemical composition and leave it for the required time.
  • Wash your hair, treat it with a fixative and rinse again.

Remember that you cannot use metal objects when curling your hair. Afterwards, under no circumstances should you dye your hair for at least two weeks.


How to do a perm - watch the video:


Curls of any shape and size, additional volume - hair perm can give you all this. You can perform the procedure even at home, using high-quality and gentle curling compounds. Don't forget that after curling, your hair needs additional care. Use balms, masks, mild shampoos, and elastic curls will delight you for a long time.

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Perky curls, flowing curls or a light wave - all these are results that can be obtained with the help of.

The modern market offers many options for compositions for the procedure. In order not to get lost in this variety and make the best choice, it is necessary to study in detail and compare the features of the most popular products.

What to choose

  1. Perms without ammonia

The modern hairdressing market offers a fairly wide selection of products for absolutely harmless, ammonia-free hair curling. When choosing a non-traumatic permanent option, you need to focus on the condition of your hair. Neutral compositions are good for thin, thin strands, and alkaline ones for long, porous strands.

Being the most current method of obtaining elastic curls, they are enriched with proteins, amino acids and other beneficial ingredients and are suitable for all hair types, also helping to restore the structure of each hair.

  1. Perm preparations based on fruit acids

Hair curling preparations based on fruit acids can be classified as medicinal. Among them are “Hydrowave” (France), “Formula for Success” USA, “Trioform Save” (France).

These compositions do not have the slightest aggressive effect, while optimally protecting the scalp and the hair itself. They do not have an unpleasant odor and provide durability, elasticity and silky curls.

More recently, the phrase perm was invariably associated with damaged, dry hair. But modern manufacturers are constantly improving cosmetics and perms today mean well-groomed curls, the creation process of which focuses not only on beauty, but also on safety.

What will you choose?

Ammonia-free productOn fruit acids

Ollin

  • Russian trademark Olin produces a special gel for perm Ollin Curl Hair Perm Gel, the active ingredients of which, primarily keratin, promote elastic curling of curls.
  • The gel, in addition to its main function, gives volume to the strands and forms an invisible film on the hair, protecting it from the negative effects of external factors. To give the composition the ability to have a softening, moisturizing and nourishing effect, the gel is mixed with Fluid mix Ollin Curl Hair. The curls obtained as a result of the procedure are fixed with a special lotion from Ollin. Considering the gentle effect on the hair and the ability to maintain the effect for up to six months, the curl-creating product from Ollin can be classified as a bio-perm.
  • Gentle formula does not contain ammonia.
  • The cost of Ollin curling gel with a volume of 500 ml varies within 350-400 rub.., for a similar volume, 250 -270 rub.., and fixing lotion about 200 rub.

Wella


  • Help you get luxurious curls without harming your hair made in Germany curl creation products from Wella.
  • The manufacturer offers two lines of products belonging to the category of delicate permanent curls. The Wella Wave It series adds additional volume by creating flowing large waves. Those who want to get bouncy curls should opt for the Wella Curl It series. The curls become moisturized, previously damaged areas are intensively restored.
  • There is no ammonia in the composition of these lines, that is, the hair does not receive the slightest negative impact; on the contrary, the formulas developed by Wella specialists allow you to receive an excellent care effect at the same time as curling.
  • Perm kits can be purchased at a price of 1400 - 1600 rubles.

Goldwell

Chemical bioperm from a Japanese manufacturer has the most gentle effect on hair and does not contain ammonia. The Evolution complex of preparations forms curls based on neutral ph technology and, thanks to the lipid-moisturizing complex included in the composition, restores curls from the inside, giving them shine and strength.

Based on the natural structure and current state, the appropriate system is selected:

  • System “0” – suitable for forming curls on coarse natural hair;
  • System “1” – optimal for normal and thin hair;
  • System “1 Soft” - used if the hair is slightly damaged or has previously been subjected to. The total number of highlighted strands should not exceed 30%;
  • System “2” for porous or chemically dyed hair, as well as for those with 30-60% highlighted hair.

Kapous (Kapus)


Curling series from an Italian manufacturer is called Kapous Helix and includes special lotions and a neutralizer.

The products are produced in a volume of 500 ml.

Lotions differ in packaging, and also have different smells and corresponding markings:

  • 0 – for difficult-to-shape natural hair;
  • 1 – for normal natural ones;
  • 2 – for colored and previously permed hair.

Ammonia in Kapous products has been replaced by ammonium nateoglycolate. This component allows you not only to fix curls, but also to provide them with elasticity and softness.

This type of perm can be classified as “bio”, since in addition to the main effect, the active components have a restorative effect.

The perm procedure with Kapous materials can be carried out either independently or with the help of a specialist in the salon. The cost of consumables for a home procedure will be about 600 rubles, the service of a specialist will cost about 3,000 rubles.

Paul Mitchell

Paul Mitchell is an American brand, has been successful in the hair curling and lamination market for 40 years.

With the help of this brand of bio-curling, you can easily achieve elastic curls of various diameters or light beach waviness.

Paul Mitchell produces three types of bio-perm compositions:

  • For thick and gray hair – alkaline type;
  • For normal, dry and colored skin – exothermic;
  • For lightened and thin hair – acidic.

Means does not contain hydrogen peroxide and ammonia, acts delicately without damaging the hair.

Composition from Paul Mitchell for home use can be purchased for about 2500 rubles, in the salon the cost of the service starts from 3,500 rubles.

Important! You can dye your curls no earlier than three weeks after the procedure.

Chi


Permanent biowave Chi Ionic Shine Waves from the American manufacturer Farouk Systems does not contain aggressive components such as ammonia or thioglycolic acid, but enriched with natural silk proteins. The complex can be used for both healthy and weakened strands.

For brittle, dry and damaged hair, the product from Chi will have a healing effect.

The product can be used both in the salon and at home. It does not emit a characteristic chemical odor.

A set for home use, including a composition for forming curls, a fixative, a neutralizer and a conditioner, will cost about 3,000 rubles.

Prices for the services of a master start from 5,000 rubles.

Schwarzkopf professional


A series of products called Natural Styling from Schwarzkopf belongs to the category of bio-perms and does not contain aggressive chemicals that can damage the hair structure.

Moreover, the aloe vera extract contained in the products helps to give the curls additional elasticity during the procedure.

The Natural Styling line is represented by the following products:

  • Gel. Provides root wave and maintains volume. Used to maintain roots that have grown after previous curling. Contains amino acids and a moisturizing complex;
  • Lotion. Two-phase formula, easy to apply, creates flowing curls while caring for them;
  • Fluid. Intended to produce short-term effects that will not last longer than 6 weeks;
  • Lotions Classic. Available in several options, depending on hair type. The result lasts on the hair for up to 12 weeks;
  • Neutralizer. Suitable for any type of composition from Schwarzkopf;
  • Repair spray. Aimed at protecting hair during the procedure.

All brand products are produced in Russia.

The cost of a salon procedure based on products from Schwarzkopf will be about 7,000 rubles, the price at home consists of the cost of individual products:

  • Gel for root volume – 350 rubles;
  • Lotions - about 600 rubles;
  • Fluid 650 rubles;
  • Spray – 500 rubles;
  • Neutralizer – 700 rubles.

Important! When using the curling complex at home, you should strictly follow the instructions. Even small deviations in dosage and technology can lead to negative consequences for hair.

Estel Niagara


Bio-permanent, Russian production, does not contain ammonia and ammonium thioglycolate. The formula of the product is based on Cysteamine, due to which it has a gentle effect. The result is natural, well-groomed, even curls.

The procedure with products from Estelle can be carried out in the salon, in which case its cost will be 2000-2500 rubles, or at home, spending 500-650 rubles on the purchase.

Z one


Biocurl from the Italian manufacturer Concept guarantees excellent formation and long-term preservation of the curl. The product contains botanical extracts, structural amino acids and a protein-based PBBS recovery complex. Bioperm Z one does not contain ammonia or its derivatives.

Service cost:

  • For natural hair – 2100 rubles;
  • For colored hair – 2200 rubles;
  • For bleached hair (“Angel Curls”) – 2300 rubles.

Matrix


The American bio-permanent Matrix implies a complex effect on the hair of products developed on the basis of plant components. The composition from Matrix does not contain any aggressive substances. Moreover, after the procedure, the curls feel the effects of a special moisturizing complex that replicates the biological hair membrane.

The Matrix line offers three products for obtaining curls:

  • In blue packaging - for sensitive hair, exposure time - 10 minutes;
  • Orange option - for difficult to curl and normal hair, holding time 15 minutes;
  • Pink – for colored and normal hair. The holding time is also 15 minutes.

The fixative-neutralizer is the same for all products. Its exposure time is 5-7 minutes.

In the salon, the cost of the procedure will depend on the length of the hair:

  • 6000 rub. – short;
  • 7000 rub. - middle length;
  • 8000 rub. - long hair.

For home use, the curling lotion will cost about 750 rubles, the fixative – 800 rubles.

Londa

Ammonia-free curling lotion hair from Londa, based on thioglycolic acid, belongs to the category of biowave, as it has a gentle effect and contains keratin, which is a protein that is organically perceived by the hair structure.

The composition is also enriched with collagen, panthenol, proteins and phyto extracts.

Country of origin: Russia.

Salon gentle procedure for short hair it will cost about 3,000 rubles, for long hair – 6,000 rubles.

To form curls yourself, you will need to buy lotion - 1500 rubles and retainer – 900 rubles.

Shot

Shot “Wawe of Perm” is a chemical bio-permanent based on wheat proteins and keratin, ammonia-free, without harming the hair, makes the dream of well-groomed wavy hair come true.

The line's products can be purchased at the following prices:

  • Curling composition – 1200 rubles;
  • Modulator for chemical composition – 1150 rubles;
  • Fixative for chemical composition – 870 rubles.

Prices are indicated for a volume of 500 ml.

Country of origin: Italy

Eugene Perma


Ammonia-free chemical biowave with natural ingredients, vitamins and minerals, allowing you to get elastic curls of any shape and diameter.

The line of products of the French brand includes the following items:

  • Lotion, the use of which results in flowing curls - No. 0 - for natural hair that is difficult to change the shape of, No. 3 - for hair that is sensitive to influence;
  • Composition – No. 0 – for coarse and natural hair, No. 1 – for natural hair, No. 2 – for sensitive hair, No. 3 – for damaged hair;
  • Neutralizer.

The cost of the lotion is 600 rubles, the curling composition is 1200 rubles, the neutralizer is 1100 rubles.

Brelil professional


The Perms line from Brelil professional is designed for perm of various hair types. Due to the absence of ammonia and the content of caring components, vitamins and proteins, it is suitable for damaged and colored hair and belongs to the biochemical type.

The line includes the following products:

  • Balancing shampoo for creating soft curls – 1250 rubles;
  • Gel Action 1 – for normal hair – 1900 rubles;
  • Gel Action 2 – for colored hair – 1900 rubles;
  • Controller – 650 rubles;
  • Lotion for natural hair – 1100 rubles;
  • Curling lotion for colored hair – 1100 rubles;
  • Lotion for stubborn hair – 1100 rubles.

Country of origin: Italy.

Magic curl


The “Magic Curl” product from the Russian manufacturer Galant-Cosmetic, enriched with natural keratin, can be classified as a bioperm. It contains no ammonia, but there is a therapeutic complex that forms a protective film on each hair during the procedure.

The composition is intended for home use, the cost does not exceed 300 rubles.