The needle bed is one of the useful accessories of every needlewoman, because even if we have a sewing machine, there is always something somewhere that needs to be hemmed, sewn, sewn or adjusted by hand!

And of course this subject could not be overlooked by Tona Finnanger! In her books there are several options for completely different needle beds. We looked, chose and show them to you.

Everything, as usual, is quite affordable and can be done at home manually or with the help of a typewriter, there would be a desire, patience and time!

Here such a needle bed in the form of a book with several pages is convenient to hide the needles and they were not in sight (for example, if there is a chance that a baby will sneak up to your workplace). You can also hide small accessories and tools in it: scissors, wire, etc. Even a small compartment for buttons can be made if desired!

And here is a similar version, already in a different color scheme:

Well, several options for voluminous small needle cases. An excellent gift, by the way, for a grandmother, for example, and does not require a special occasion, you can just give joy made by yourself, because grandmothers are so proud of our achievements.

You can decorate the pillow for needles with embroidery. And here is the workflow:

Well, here's another cute version with a patch:

This is a brand new model of Tilda, which is designed to decorate your little one's nursery.

Well, let's start creating it!

All the dolls in this book have tufts of hair, simply because we think they look very cute, but you can do without them if you wish. This doll can be made as a girl or a boy.

PATTERN (click on the pattern and a large size will open):

HEAD

Fold the two parts of the head in opposite directions from each other, right side inward, and sew along the contour, as in fig. A. Sew with a double seam, leaving the opening of the neck unsewn, see fig. IN.

Trim the excess seam allowance around the edge, remembering to make cuts where the seam allowance folds inward. Turn right side out and iron.

To give the head the correct shape, it needs to be properly stuffed. To begin, push the stuffing towards the outer edges and continue stuffing until the head is full. Then push more filler towards the face and back of the head to achieve the correct round shape. Don't be afraid to knead and shape your head, but be careful not to pull the seams apart from excessive pressure.

BODY

Fold the fabric for the torso in half, right side in, and transfer the pattern for the torso, two arms and two legs, and two tufts of hair.

Mark the holes and sew the details along the contour. Cut out, remembering to make cuts where the seam allowance folds inward. Turn the pieces right side out and iron.

To turn the thin legs and arms right side out, press the blunt end of a wooden stick against the tip of the arm/leg as shown in fig. C. Starting at the foot/hand area, stretch the arm/leg over the wooden stick as shown in fig. D. Holding the foot/hand, continue to pull down to turn the arm/leg to the front side, see fig. E.

Stuff the legs, arms and tufts of hair with a wooden stick. Stuff the body. Position the legs on the torso and, after pinning them, sew up the opening on the torso to secure them in place, see fig. F. Remove pins.

Fold in the seam allowance at the opening on the head, stuff it well and sew it in place. The head should be attached as close to the body as possible: the neck should only show a couple of millimeters.

Attach the arms to the body. So that they can move freely, make the connection point small but strong. To do this, securely sew a small section of the arm to the body using a large number of stitches or embroidery thread, as shown in fig. G.

Fold the seam allowance around the hole in the hair buns. Attach them with pins, using the photo as a guide. They should be attached at the back of the side seam, slightly above the middle on each side of the head. Sew them firmly into place.

Draw the hair and face with black paint, first outlining the contours of the hair with a pencil.

TROUSERS AND PANTS

Pantaloons and panties are sewn according to the same principle, although the legs of pantaloons are shorter than those of panties. We used a flat ribbing for the panties and a rounded ribbing for the pantaloons. A flat ribbing gives a stronger edge, which is ideal for panties, while a rubber ribbing is thinner and more suitable for knickers.

BEGINNING OF WORK

Cut out four pieces for the panties/knickers, making sure you add the drawstring for the waistband and leg openings, and add an extra seam allowance.

Place two pairs of pieces right side in and sew along the side edge of the pantaloons / panties (see fig. A).

Spread the parts of the pantaloons / panties in different directions and sew along the bends on both sides, as shown in fig. b.

Fold the pants/knickers in the opposite direction so that the seams lie on top of each other. Sew the legs as shown in fig. C.

Fold the seam allowance around the waistband opening, then fold over to form a drawstring for the elastic. Sew along the folded edge of the seam allowance. Leave a 2 cm (3/4 inch) hole so you can pull the elastic in later.

Do the same on each leg (see fig. D). The edges of the legs on the panties are easier to sew by hand.

Cut the elastic long enough: you need it to cover the circumference of the holes with a little allowance. Pull the elastic into the drawstring at the waist and legs, either with a safety pin or by attaching a thread to the elastic and threading it into the drawstring with a blunt needle (see fig. E).

Put pantaloons/pants on the doll and tighten the elastic to fit. If you are using a rubber band, tie a knot and cut off the ends. If using a flat elastic, mark exactly where you need to fasten the two ends.

Remove the panties from the figurine, tighten the elastic and secure the ends with a pin. Sew well to fasten the ends of the elastic, preferably on a sewing machine. Cut off excess rubber.

Sew up the holes used to draw in the elastic at the waistband and each leg.

Turn pantaloons/panties right side out, iron and put on the doll.

The bodice consists of three parts and must be made with a lining. The easiest way to make the lining is to use the same fabric as for the dress itself. Cut out each piece of the dress in duplicate with a good seam allowance, you should have six pieces in total. Don't forget that you will need the right and left pieces for both the main fabric and the lining (see fig. A).

Sew the two side pieces securely to the middle piece so that you have two identical bodices. Fold the bodices right side in and sew. Do not sew along the bottom edge (See Fig. B). Trim excess seam allowances, turn right side out and iron.

Cut a 52 x 6.5 cm (20 x 25 ½ inch) strip for the skirt. One long side and each short side will need to be folded over twice to hide the unsewn edge, so allow enough seam allowance. The second long side should have a regular seam allowance.

Fold over the three sides mentioned above twice, iron and sew to hold the fold.

On the sewing machine, sew about 6 mm (1/4 inch) stitches along the remaining edge (waist) and pull up the bobbin thread to gather around the edge.

Pull and adjust the gathered hem of the waistband so that it is the same length as the bodice and spread the gathers as evenly as you can.

Place the right side of the bodice against the edge of the skirt so that the edges are on top of each other and sew the skirt in place (see fig. C).

Sew a zigzag stitch along the edge of the binding seam.

For best results, fasten the dress to the back with a button. Put the dress on the doll and mark where each half of the button should be placed before sewing them on (See Diagram D).

The jacket is lined, but we didn't line the sleeves as they would be too tight. Cut out three jacket pieces from the jacket fabric and the jacket lining. Also cut out two sleeves from the jacket fabric, but not from the lining fabric (see picture A). For all details, make sufficient seam allowances.

Following the pattern, carefully mark the darts. The arrows on the pattern show the direction in which the center of the tuck should lie (see figure B). Fold the darts in the same way as you would for the jacket and lining.

Iron the darts well and sew a small seam along each dart to secure it. The seam should go over the seam allowance so that it is not visible on the finished jacket (see fig. C).

Fold the fabric for the two pieces of the collar in half, right side inward, sew along the contour and cut out. Turn right side out and iron.

Sew three pieces of jacket fabric and lining at the shoulders. Sew the sleeves to the part of the jacket (see fig. D).

Position the front of the jacket right side up against the back of the jacket. Pin the jacket and lining all around the edge. Make sure the sleeves are out of the way and sew around the edge of the entire jacket as shown in fig. E. Leave a turning hole in the middle of the back of the jacket (see fig. F).

It is very important to trim the excess seam allowance around the edge. Make slits in the seam allowances under the sleeves and where the seams fold inward to avoid pulling. Fold over the seam allowances at the openings of each sleeve twice to hide the unsewn edge and hand-hem. The stitches should not go through the fabric. Turn the jacket right side out and iron well.

To prevent the jacket lining from being too loose, we folded in the seam allowances around the openings of the sleeves in the lining and sewed on the seam allowance where the sleeves attach to the jacket (see fig. G).

Put the jacket on the doll and mark where to fasten the Velcro fastener so that the jacket fastens easily. Cut out the Velcro pieces and sew them in place. When the jacket is ready, sew a button on the front of the upper half of the Velcro fastener (see fig. H). For older children, you can make buttonholes and attach regular buttons.

HAIR ORNAMENTS

Changing different decorations is a lot of fun. In this case, you can make different headbands and hair bands.

HAIR BAND

Cut a 32 x 5.5 cm (12 ½ x 2 ¼ inch) strip of fabric for the headband, adding a seam allowance.

Fold the strip in half, right side in, so it is 2.75 cm (1 1/8 inches) wide, and sew along the long edge that is left open. Turn the strip right side out, fold in the seam allowance at the holes on both sides and iron.

Cut another 14 x 4 cm (5 ½ x 1 ½ inch) strip to cover the elastic. Sew it the same way as you would for the hairband, so it is 2 cm (3/4 inch) wide. Do not fold in the seam allowances on both sides.

Cut a strip of elastic 8 cm (3 ¼ inches) long. Thread the elastic into a thin strip, lining up the elastic and the fabric at one end. Sew these two ends by sewing well on a typewriter. Pull the other end of the elastic through the fabric so that you can tie the remaining ends together.

Pull one end of the wrapped elastic into a hairband. Sew on one end of the elastic and sew up the opening (see fig. A).

Pull the other end of the wrapped elastic through the other end of the hairband. Secure with a pin as shown in fig. b.

Fold the bow fabric in half, right side in, transfer the bow pattern and sew along the outline, then cut and turn right side out. Iron the bow and sew up the turning hole.

Tie one knot in the middle of the bow. Put the hair band on the doll and pin the bow in place before sewing it in place (see picture C). Remove pins.

SCRUNCHY

Measure a piece of flat elastic around the hair bun on the doll's head and mark where you need to sew the elastic to hold it in place. Cut a piece of elastic a little longer than marked.

Cut a 14 x 4 cm (5 ½ x 1 ½ inch) strip of fabric to wrap around the elastic. Sew it in the same way as you would for the hair band to make a 2 cm (3/4 inch) wide tube. Fold in the seam allowance at both ends and pull the elastic into the tube. Fasten the ends of the elastic with a pin, just at the marks, and sew well back and forth, preferably on a sewing machine. Remove all pins.

Cut off the excess elastic and sew the holes of the tube so that the strip of fabric covers the elastic.

Decorations in the form of rosettes and flowers are sewn in the same way. The rosette is perfect for jackets and dresses, and the flower goes well with most accessories. It is important to avoid using thicker interlining, as it will be almost impossible to stitch through several layers.

Iron the fabric of your choice over the adhesive side of the interlining and transfer the rosette or flower pattern onto the fabric.

On the sewing machine, sew an indent of about 6 mm (1/4 inch) from the marked edge. Cut out the pieces along the marked edge (see fig. A).

Place the pieces one above the other with the button on top. Sew a button through all layers so that they are all sewn together at the same time.

Hint: If you sew one half of the Velcro to a jacket or dress and the other half to a flower or rosette, you can change the embellishments on the jacket or dress.

Tilda dolls have become popular for a long time. And today we will show you a popular pattern for creating a tilde snail!

Their distinguishing feature is their appearance. Uncomplicated and bizarre faces, well-chosen textiles in warm colors, show their zest.

In this article, we will talk about a pattern for creating a Tilda snail. Here you can also find a master class on making Tilda snails from felt, fabric, or other material that you have at hand.

It is very easy to make a Tilda snail with your own hands. What modern needlewomen do not come up with, there are snails - needle beds, snails - bagels, snail pillows - you can see all this in textile stores and at attractive prices. But who would not want to have such beauty in their home, especially handmade?

The Tilda snail in the form of a pillow should always be in full size, so that the person who will sleep on it is very comfortable. Unless, of course, this is decor. Patterns of Tilda snails can be downloaded on the Internet, but it is better to do it yourself.

We make patterns for sewing a toy snail Tilda with our own hands

You will need:

• paper
• synthetic winterizer
• pencil
• scissors
• threads
• needle
• the cloth
• beads
• black pen
• decor accessories.

Draw patterns. Transfer patterns to fabric. Cut out the resulting shapes from the fabric. Sew the right sides of the fabric. Turn the piece inside out. Fill with filler. Sew the resulting details of the future Tilda snail.

Bring the product to its logical conclusion with the help of accessories. Your snail is ready. Now, you know how to sew a Tilda snail yourself. It will serve as a beautiful addition to your interior and will serve its intended purpose.

It is also easy to make an absolutely uncomplicated snail - a needle bed.

You will need:

• durable fabric
• scissors
• threads
• filler, synthetic winterizer
• decor accessories.

1. Cut out the outline of a snail from the fabric
2. Grind together the resulting parts.
3. Fill with synthetic winterizer.
4. Sew up the hole.
5. Decorate bringing your product to its logical conclusion.

Your snail - needle bed is ready. Use for joy!

Felt snails, as a rule, serve simply as an interior decoration, or for your apartment, cottage, house, car.

To make such a snail, you will need:

• threads
• accessories with which you will decorate the snail
• sintepon.

1. Cut out the desired pieces from the felt.
2. Sew them together with the right sides.
3. Turn them right side out.
4. Sew the pieces together again
5. Fill with synthetic winterizer.
6. Sew up any remaining holes.
7. Decorate your snail with accessories.

The product is ready!

Video on the topic of the article

You can see the details of making a Tilda snail pattern, a felt snail, a pillow snail in the master classes with a description by clicking on the links below:

We look forward to each new collection from Toni Finnanger with her funny and beautiful Tilds. And finally, we are pleased to share with you a pattern of a new tilde doll, so unusual and completely different from the image of tilde dolls and princesses we are already familiar with. Tilda has been associated with thin long-legged beauties in dresses for more than five years among needlewomen all over the world. But this time Toni decided to surprise us.

Only a couple of months left before the New Year. It's time to start preparing gifts for family and friends. Have you forgotten that the monkey will be the symbol of 2016?! Therefore, we bring to your attention the monkey tilde pattern, which will appear in the new book by Tony Finnanger. Tilda the monkey is very funny and cute, but it is also very easy to sew. Print the monkey pattern or translate it by attaching the sheet to the computer screen. For sewing, you will need two types of fabric - the main one with a small pattern for the body of the monkey tilde and a small flap of flesh-colored fabric for the muzzle.

Needlework is a very delicate art that requires painstaking work and considerable perseverance. Wanting to create something great with their own hands, beginners spend a huge amount of time honing their skills. One of the masterpieces of handmade style is the Tilda Bird.

Tilda angel is probably the most popular tilde character. Cute and gentle, funny and funny - all this is a tilde angel.

Probably one of the most recognizable is the vintage tilde angel - a slender girl with large wings in a dress of a delicate shade. There is also a tilde sewing angel with a funny spool of thread in her hair. A wonderful keeper of the house will be a tilda angel of home comfort in a sweater with a funny hairstyle.

Our ancestors were familiar with such a type of individual activity as needlework. This is a creative process in which fantasy is manifested, an idea is embodied, a piece of the soul is invested in what was created with love with one's own hands. Needlework has not lost its significance and relevance even now, because to create such a thing as, for example, a domestic angel (a pattern in the article), means to invest your energy in such a talisman, making it a kind of symbol of comfort and well-being.

The "Attic" Witch has similar features with the Baba Yaga, already familiar to everyone. The main characteristic outlines of the silhouette pattern are a long nose, a high hat and a mouth covered with a hand. This doll knows something secret, and will definitely not tell anyone. Her eyes are usually adorned with black beads, and there is blush on her cheeks. In the original Good witches, a very, very kind witch.

From time immemorial, needlework has been considered a primordially feminine work, during which the craftswoman creatively manifested her individuality, embodied her dreams and fantasies into reality. Things created with a soul struck with beauty, grace, stored the energy potential of the creator, becoming symbols and amulets. In all world cultures, a doll sewn with a certain mood carried an important meaning and often a mystical purpose.

Your attention is presented to the bear tilde pattern, and in several different versions. Funny teddy bear with buttons can move both arms and legs, it will delight your kids every day. But the Teddy bear is better known as a coffee bear - since the fabric from which it is sewn is often tinted with coffee, it will perfectly fit into any interior and add coziness to your home.

The New Year is the most magical holiday when we present our loved ones. A tilde toy can be a wonderful gift for your loved ones and friends, because this is a whole world - a world of toys that live their own lives and plunge us back into a bright, bright childhood. Angel and snail, cat and splyushka, dwarf and Santa. Who do you want to meet?

Today, many needlewomen sew Tild. These cute dolls decorate both children's rooms and ladies' boudoirs. Do you also want to sew something similar? Then this article is especially for you. It contains 3 patterns of Tilda dolls in full size. Find all the details below.

Simple Tilda

Such a toy can be sewn not only by an adult lady, but even by a little girl. A full-size Tilda doll pattern is shown above. It must be printed on A4 format. If you want to make a large toy, you can double the pattern on the computer. After you have completed this simple task, you should cut out the details from the paper. The next step is that the life-size patterns of the Tilda doll are transferred to the fabric. The body of the toy must be sewn from beige or coffee-colored material. If you want to make a natural doll, you can buy white cotton fabric and tint it with coffee or tea.

All the details of the toy are cut out, it remains to sew them. You need to start with the body. We sew two parts, leaving a hole at the bottom. We turn the workpiece inside out and stuff it with synthetic winterizer or cotton wool. It remains to sew up the left hole. Now, by analogy, you need to make arms and legs. Stuffed parts are sewn to the body. Now you need to make hair out of woolen threads or from a loose satin ribbon. To complete the manufacture of the toy, you need to embroider two dots-peepholes.

tilda angel

This cute craft will take a little longer to make than the previous version of the toy. above. It should be printed or redrawn. This pattern should not be enlarged, the cute angel should be small. We cut out the paper parts and transfer them to the fabric. As in the previous version, it is worth using a beige or coffee color of the material.

How to sew a doll Patterns are ready, it remains to collect them. First you need to sew all the details. Let's start making a toy from the body, then we will make the arms and legs. There is one nuance here. If you want the doll to sit, then you should stuff the legs loosely, and then make a seam on the knee using the finished parts. Lastly, let's make the wings. Now we sew all the details in place. It remains to make a hairstyle and embroider eyes. This doll can be dressed up in anything. In the classic version, all Tildas wear dresses, but this, of course, is not the law.

Tatiana Konne doll

Tildas with big legs conquered the whole world. These cute girls, unlike the classic rag toys, look more modern and relevant. A life size Tilda doll pattern can be found above. These girls are sewn from beige material, but unlike the original ones, they consist of several parts. You should start making Tilda from the head. First we sew the back of the head, and then attach the front to them. You can immediately twist and fill the resulting face. We sew the body and attach the head to it. We assemble the legs, which consist of three parts. You can insert cardboard into the sole so that the doll stands better. Sew arms and legs to the doll. Now you need to sew on Tilda's beady eyes and blush her cheeks with dry pastel.