Technological map for sewing a straight skirt. Lecture notes on the technological sequence of processing a lined straight skirt. Preparing a skirt for fitting
- 1. It’s better to cut fabric on a large table
- 2. Fold the fabric in half, right sides inward, aligning the edges. To prevent the fabric from moving when cutting, you can pin it with needles inside the outline of the parts
- 3. First, lay out large parts on the fabric (front, back, sleeves), then small parts (cuffs, collars, belt, etc.). Achieve economical layout of patterns on fabric
- 4. To the fold of the fabric, place the parts that are given on the pattern in half size. After cutting you will have a solid piece
Layout of a straight skirt pattern on fabric with a directional pattern
Layout of a straight skirt pattern on fabric 140cm wide without a seam on the back panel
Layout of a straight skirt pattern on fabric 140cm wide with a seam on the back panel
Layout of a wedge skirt pattern on fabric
Pattern layout for a one-seam conical skirt on fabric
Layout of a two-seam conical skirt pattern on fabric
- 1. Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric with needles and begin chalking
- 2. First draw long lines, then short and oval ones. The lines should be straight. You can use rulers and patterns to trace the lines accurately and evenly.
- 3. Smooth, slippery fabrics (silk, chiffon, etc.) can warp when trimming and cutting. Be sure to pin them together. When tracing the contours of parts, do not press too hard on the soap.
- 4. After chalking the outline of the parts, mark on the fabric the location of the lines of the middle of the part, the half-skid line, the location of the first loop, pockets, darts, folds
- 5. Once again check the correctness of the layout and edging and only then proceed to cutting the fabric
- 6. After chalking the parts, mark the seam allowances
- 7. If you have little experience, are not a very good eye, and you are not sure that you can set the required amount of seam allowance by eye along the entire length of the cut, set aside the amount of seam allowance using a ruler or a special template that you can make from cardboard. Mark the seam allowance on the fabric with chalk or soap.
- 8. Cut the fabric strictly according to the seam allowances! Make no mistake!
- 9. Don’t forget that when cutting loose fabrics, the seam allowances need to be increased!
The technological process of manufacturing garments is the processing and assembly of parts and assemblies in a certain sequence. The technological sequence of processing products is understood as a list of technologically indivisible operations corresponding to the order in which they are performed in the manufacture of parts and assemblies of the product, indicating the specialty, equipment used, devices, and technical conditions.
1. Preparing fabric for cutting (for any product). Some fabrics are subject to shrinkage during wet heat treatment (ironing) and washing. To avoid this, the fabric must be decated (carry out a wet-heat treatment) before cutting.
- determination of the front side of the fabric (t Kan is usually folded in half on a roll. Wool fabrics are folded with the right side inward, and silk fabrics are folded outward. On the edge of the fabric, the punctures are directed from the wrong side to the right side of the fabric. All weaving defects are usually shown on the wrong side of the fabric
-inspect the fabric for defects(on the front surface of the fabric there should be no: foreign fibers, short thickening of threads, the absence of one or more warp threads or weft threads, different shades. There should be no defects in the coloring of the fabric. Mark all detected defects with soap or chalk on the wrong side of the fabric. Please note on them when cutting.
- determination of the direction of the shared thread(the warp thread is directed along the edge of the fabric. When laying out patterns, try to avoid deviating from the direction of the warp thread.
- determination of the direction of the drawing(if the drawing is directed in one direction, then lay out the patterns and cut out the details of the product in one direction.
If the fabric is smooth and does not have a one-sided pattern, then the pattern pieces can be laid out in different directions, but the direction of the warp threads must be taken into account.
On fabrics with large polka dots, the middle of the front and the middle of the back should go through the center of the polka dot.
On fabrics with large patterns, lay out the patterns so that the middle of the front and back coincides with the middle of the pattern. Pay attention to its symmetry!
On checked or striped fabrics, determine whether the checks or stripes are symmetrical or asymmetrical. If they are asymmetrical, then lay out the patterns in one direction.
On striped fabrics, lay out the patterns so that the middle of the front and back coincides with the middle of the central strip!
On small parts (valves, etc.), the stripes must match the stripes on the main parts.
The stripes should be located symmetrically at the ends of the collar and lapels.
2. Laying out patterns on fabric, cutting
1. Fold the fabric in half, right side inward, align the edges. To prevent the fabric from shifting when cutting, you can pin it inside the contour of the parts with pins.
2. First, lay out large parts on the fabric (front, back, sleeves), then small parts (cuffs, collars, belt, etc.). Achieve an economical layout of patterns on fabric.
3. To the fold of the fabric, place the parts that are given on the pattern in half size. After cutting you will have a solid piece
4. First draw long lines, then short and oval ones. The lines should be straight. You can use rulers and patterns to trace the lines accurately and evenly.
5. Smooth, slippery fabrics (silk, chiffon, etc.) can warp when trimming and cutting. Be sure to pin them together.
6. After chalking the outline of the parts, mark on the fabric the location of the lines of the middle of the part, the half-skid line, the location of the first loop, pockets, darts, folds. After chalking the parts, mark the seam allowances
7. Cut the fabric strictly according to the seam allowances, holding the cut allowance in your hand (thanks to this rule, the layers of the cut parts do not shift).
8. Don’t forget that when cutting loose fabrics, the seam allowances need to be increased!
Layout of a straight skirt pattern on fabric with a directional pattern
Layout of a straight skirt pattern on fabric 140cm wide
b
without a seam and with a seam on the back panel.
3. Preparing the skirt for fitting.
1. Laying control lines and copy stitches on symmetrical parts or sides, along the lines of the middle of the front and back panels, waist, waist, hips.
2. Duplicate allowances for slots, fasteners, and lay adhesive edges.
3. Sweep and sweep darts, folds, reliefs.
4. Sweep and sweep the side and middle sections of the skirt.
5. Sweep the bottom of the skirt.
6. Perform wet-heat treatment of the product
7. Duplicate and prepare a belt or grosgrain ribbon.
4. Fitting
1. Put the product on the customer’s figure. Pin or fasten the clasp. Clarify the balance of the product on the figure by aligning the skirt with the customer’s figure along the waist and hips.
2. Check the width of the product at the waist and hips by pinching or pinning the side seams. Specify the size and direction of the darts. Check the length of the spline.
3. Specify the sewing line of the belt by pinning a belt or grosgrain ribbon to half of the skirt. Check the length of the skirt.
5. Making changes, clarification. Straight stitches are laid along the marked chalk lines. Mark new seam lines and interrupt or pierce them to the other side of the parts.
6. Processing darts. Darts allow you to bring the shape of clothing closer to the shape of the human figure. Stitch along the side lines starting from the cut of the part and ending at the line of the end of the dart by 0.1 ml. from the running line. Iron the darts towards the middle of the part. Iron any looseness in the fabric at the ends of the darts.
7. Processing the side sections of the skirt. Seams in skirts are treated with pressed seams (open-iron, press-iron), linen seams and linen seams. The choice of seams depends on the model and type of fabric.
8. Processing the slots in the middle seam of the skirt
Duplicating allowances for slots.
Right allowance for slot Left allowance for slot
Overcast each separately. If the skirt is unlined, then the left seam allowance
middle cut and spline cuts. bend the slots and iron them 1-1.2 cm.
Baste seam cuts and slots.
Stitch the middle edge and top edges of the slots. Securing spline allowances
Iron the middle cuts above the vents. 2nd finishing line.
Iron the slot to the left side.
9. Framing the upper and lower sections of the skirt. The skirt is cut at the seams and darts in half along the right front side. The top cut is refined or trimmed with an allowance of 1-1.5 cm for attaching the belt. The lower sections of the skirt are specified or trimmed, and an allowance line for processing the lower sections of 3 cm is marked (with soap and then with straight stitches).
10. Processing the fastener with a zipper braid.
Processing a hidden zipper
11. Processing the upper section of the skirt with a belt.
1. Duplicating the skirt belt
2. Processing the skirt belt
a - turning the ends of the skirt belt;
b - belt processing
Basting and stitching the finished belt to the top section of the skirt
1 - middle of the front panel; The overcast section of the underbelt is sewn into a seam
2 - side seam; attaching a belt or along the belt at a distance
3 - the middle of the back panel 0.1-0.2 cm from its fold (line 2).
12. Bottom cut in the skirt processed with various types of edge seams. Most commonly used: hem seam (open or closed hem). The choice of seams depends on the model and type of fabric.
Features of processing a lined skirt
1. The skirt lining is cut according to the top patterns, with allowances for processing and freedom, and an allowance is also added along the side seam to the back panel part at the level of the vent and below, for subsequent stitching to the vent allowances.
2. The back panel of the skirt can be cut with a fold, since the lining material has a strong spreading of the threads due to the thinness of the material. At the level of the fastener, the lining must be cut in the form of a droplet, the sections of which are stitched, folded 0.5 cm and stitched 0.1 cm from the folded edge. The edges of the droplet are hemmed over the zipper with hidden stitches. If the back panel of the lining is cut with a seam, then the lining can be stitched to the fastener allowances.
3. The side sections of the lining are treated with a pressed seam. The darts on the lining are not sewn down, but are folded into folds in opposite directions from the dart.
4. The sections for attaching the lining to the waistband are sewn together with the section of the waistband. When stitching the lining, hangers are inserted above the side seams, which are made from the lining or ribbons 0.5 cm wide are used.
5. The lower section of the skirt is finished with a hem seam with a closed cut.At the bottom, the lining should be 2 - 3 cm shorter than the skirt.
6. If the skirt does not have vents or slits, leave slits in the side seams (15-20 cm long) on the lining to ensure freedom of movement.
7. If the skirt according to the model has slots or slits, then the cuts on the lining should correspond to them.
8. The simplest and most convenient type of processing is to cut an arched section of fabric to the height of the slot or cut. Overcast the edges of the neckline (its width is 4 - 5 cm), fold it 0.5 cm to the wrong side and stitch.There are more professional processing methods (see diagrams above).
Methods for processing the lining over the slot, cut.
Processing the lining above the cut Processing the lining above the slot
Methods for processing the lining over the slot
Technological sequence for processing a straight skirt
p/pName of technologically indivisible operation
Type of work, specialty
Equipment, tools, devices used
Technical conditions and requirements for performing the operation
1.
Sew darts on the half and half skirts.
M
G.C.188 M.D.
Stitch along the side lines starting from the cut of the part and ending at the line of the end of the dart by 0.1 ml. from the running line.
2.
Iron darts
U
PGU-1-120 "ELEGANT" - Ironing unit
Figured semicircular block
Iron the darts towards the middle of the part. Iron any looseness in the fabric at the ends of the darts.
3.
Overcast the middle sections and vents of the skirt
CM
JUKI M.O. – 6700 S Series
The edges are sewn from the front side of the part. Thread the threads at the edges of the slots.
4.
Stitch the middle sections of the skirt
M
G.C.188 M.D.– Single-needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine
Fold the rear panel parts facing the side. inwards, align the cuts and sweep along the entire seam. Stitch sh.sh. 1-1.5 cm, starting the line from the control mark that determines the length of the fastener and ending diagonally at the ironed edge of the vent.
5.
WTO medium cuts
U
PGU-2-101EKO Industrial console ironing unit
Filled steam generator 2.5 lPS05/ B
Iron the allowances of the middle cuts in the fastener area, and iron them in the slot area onto the left part of the back panel without folding.
6.
Securing the spline allowance
M
G.C.188 M.D.– Single-needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine
Place a finishing stitch along the front side. z/p skirts at an angle to the middle seam of the back, securing the seam allowances.
7.
Stitch the side seams of the skirt
M
G.C.188 M.D.– Single-needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine
Fold the slices facing side. inward, equalize the cuts, combine the counter. marks on the hip line, sweep away
Sh.sh. 1-1.5 cm at a distance of 0.1 ml. from the crease seam.
8.
Sew the side edges of the skirt
CM
JukiMo– 3900 edge overcasting machine complete with table
The sections are stitched from the side of the front panel to the width of the overlock foot.
9.
Iron or press the side sections of the skirt
U
Console ironing unit, block
Filled steam generator 2.5 l
In the upper part, iron using a semicircular block, in the lower part on a straight block without heaving, until it fits completely.
10.
Processing the zipper
M
G.C.188 M.D.– Single-needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine
Baste under the right fold butt to the zipper teeth, under the left fold at a distance of 0.3-0.4 cm from the fold. Grind in one step. The stitch runs on the left back panel at a distance of 0.7 - 1 cm, on the right - 0.1-0.2 cm from the seam allowance.
11.
Belt processing
M
G.C.188 M.D.– Single-needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine
Grind the ends of the belt with a width of 0.5-0.7 cm. The end of the front belt is turned along the lower edge with a width of 1 cm to a length of 2.5 - 3 cm. The corners are cut out, the ends of the belt are turned out, straightened, and ironed. Overcast the section of the underbelt.
12.
Sew the top belt to the skirt
M
G.C.188 M.D.– Single-needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine
The belt is folded with the skirt facing side. inward, align the cuts and ends of the belt. Baste the stitching width 0.9-1.4 cm. Sew the stitching width 1-1.5 cm. Sweep the stitching seam and iron it onto the belt.
13.
Stitch the bottom edge of the waistband
M
G.C.188 M.D.– Single-needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine
The overcast section of the underbelt is sewn into the seam by stitching the belt or at a distance of 01-0.2 ml. from the seam of the belt, placing hangers over the side seams.
14.
Sew the bottom edges of the skirt
CM
2-needle high-speed sewing machine (overlock) JUKI M.O. – 6700 S Series
Stitching of the lower edge is performed from the front side of the product, starting and ending at the edges of the vents. Baste and iron along the marked line.
15.
Hem the bottom edges of the skirt
R
Hand needle No. 2, polyester thread
Blind hemming stitches, threads in the color of the main material. Stitch length 2-3 in 1 cm.
16.
Sew a loop on the skirt waistband
CM
LBH1790 - 2-thread semi-automatic machine for making loops of various types
Overcast the loop at a distance of 0.7 cm from the top edge of the belt, a length corresponding to the diameter of the button + 0.2 ml. threads in the color of the main material.
Project folder
Theme:Skirt
Gymnasium No. 40
Ekaterinburg, 2009
Introduction
1. General characteristics of the product
3. Equipment selection
4. History of the skirt
5 Styles and trends in fashion
6. Materials and their properties in accordance with and purpose of the shape of the skirt
7. Color and personality
8. Technological sequence for making a skirt
9 Safety precautions when working with fabric
10. Results of work
Bibliography
Applications
Introduction
Working with fabric, making clothes, doing work with your own hands is one of the means of self-expression that develops creative thinking, which makes it possible to realize your ideas in the manufacture of a specific garment.
The purpose of this work is to develop and implement a project for independently sewing a skirt under the guidance of a teacher. As well as the formation of such qualities as the ability to independently solve creative and technological problems, make informed decisions, apply and use acquired skills, knowledge, skills and information in practice in later life.
The task is to generalize the theoretical knowledge, skills and abilities acquired in the Technology lessons to create a garment (skirt).
The process of manufacturing garments on an industrial scale involves many people of various professions: fashion designer, designer, technologist, sewing equipment operator, clothing demonstrator. These professionals invest a piece of themselves, their individuality, for the people who will wear the things they create. During the lessons there is an opportunity to combine the work of various professions and bring your ideas to life.
To make any garment, certain steps are used. Firstly, this is drawing up a sketch, secondly, cutting out the product, thirdly, completing the tailoring of the product, taking into account the available material and the characteristics of the figure according to an individual plan. At the same time, strict adherence to this scheme: sketch - drawing - design - technology - finished product, helps to obtain practical skills for independently sewing a product - from an idea to a finished product.
1. General characteristics of the product
Skirt (French jupe) is a piece of clothing that covers the lower part of the body. Evolved from a loincloth.
There are many different types of skirts that fall into different styles. These are skirts such as: straight skirt, wedge skirt (Appendix 1); skirt with pleats, skirt with yoke (Appendix 2); gode skirt; half-sun skirt (Appendix 3), etc.
My model is a straight skirt that fits the hips, with darts along the waistline, without a belt. The skirt consists of several identical wedges that widen downward. With an odd number of wedges, the seam with the fastener is located at the back, in the middle of the back, and the slot is processed at the bottom. The bottom of the product is stitched on a sewing machine. A sketch of the model is presented in Appendix 1.
2. Design and modeling
Design is the construction of a drawing of a product pattern. My skirt model consists of three wedge panels. The width of the skirt is calculated based on the circumference of the hips. To draw a drawing of the base of such a skirt, the following measurements are needed:
St (half waist circumference);
Sat (half hip circumference);
Di (product length).
A three-piece skirt can be of different lengths (from mini to maxi, but I chose a medium length - just above the knees) and is made from denser fabrics (for example: gabardine). When calculating the amount of fabric, you need to add 10 cm to the length of the skirt (Di) for processing the upper and lower sections and leveling the cross section. For example: with a fabric width of 140 cm, the length of the skirt will be equal to Di + 10 cm; With fabric width< 140 см. длина пошива юбки будет равна (Ди + 10 см.) х 2
Modeling is the process of changing a pattern drawing in accordance with the selected model. The term "modeling" comes from the word "model", that is, a sample created by artists, fashion designers and designers. Drawing of the base of the skirt (Appendix 4).
3. Equipment selection
In the cutting process I needed: scissors; chalk or soap with a thin edge; tape measure; tailor's pins; cutter's ruler. In the process of basting I needed: chalk; cutter; tracing paper; tailor's pins; basting needle; scissors; threads In the sewing process I needed: a sewing machine; scissors; ripper; chalk; scissors.
4. History of the skirt
Skirts have been known since the dawn of mankind and were worn by both women and men.
In the southern regions, men wore loincloths, skirts and aprons made of palm leaves. The main clothing of the ancient Egyptians was the shenti apron, which consisted of a strip of fabric wrapped around the hips and secured at the waist with a cord. The shenti of commoners and pharaohs differed only in the quality of the fabric; their style remained unchanged. The Assyrians wore a shirt-skirt made of wool, cotton or linen, called a kandi. By the length of this type of clothing one could determine the degree of nobility of its owner. The so-called Gothic skirt appeared in the form of purely women's clothing only in the 15th century. It was from this time that a bodice with side lacing began to be worn separately from the skirt itself in the modern sense. In the 16th century, wealthy women dressed in massive, heavy clothes, which were made from cloth, expensive brocade and velvet fabrics. In the last third of this century, hoops appeared, encircling the waist like a flat wheel. This was achieved by putting a quilted roller under the skirt and a cutter assembled from the fabric of the dress, located at the waist. In the 17th century, women wore twirls - a special kind of “cooper” hoops around the waist. In the 18th century, predominantly smooth skirts with a large number of decorations appeared: frills, flower garlands, lace, draperies. Until the 40s of the 19th century, the skirt was cut from 3 or 5 panels. It stretches at the front and gathers slightly at the sides. The side seams are beveled and go to the back. In the middle of the 19th century, skirts with crinolines appeared, decorated with flounces and teeth, embroidered with braid, galloon and lace. In its second half, the crinoline is replaced by a petticoat with frills and a bustle pillow. At the end of the last century, women were pulled into a corset up to the hips, and the waist smoothly transitions from behind into a draped train, so part of the skirt lies on the floor. At the beginning of the 20th century, with the advent of the “modern” silhouette, the skirt was cut flared at the back with an elongated front. In the 20s, skirts again rose to the knee. Nowadays, various forms of skirts are typical: straight and widened at the bottom, wide and narrow, pleated, wedged, short and long trouser skirts and others.
5. Styles and trends in fashion
In the 70s, fundamental changes occurred in the nature of mass fashion. When determining the fashionability of clothes, they began to talk not only about styles, lengths, but also style. The features of each style are created by the cut, shape, fabric finishing, set of clothing items, as well as various additions, jewelry and cosmetics. Currently the main styles are:
Classical;
Youth;
Sports;
Denim;
Folklore;
My style is classic. It suits my inner state the most. There are things in fashion that, despite all the changes in tastes, preferences, and attachments, remain to a certain extent unchanged. The general opinion recognizes them as excellent, exemplary, exemplary. The proportions of classic style clothing correspond to the natural proportions of the human figure, the lines of shapes and details are simple and laconic.
6. Materials and their properties in accordance with the style of the skirt
I thought through the color scheme of the skirt, choosing black - the color of refined taste, which at all times is at the top of fashion, hiding figure flaws. The beginning of the image is the color, and the beginning of the style is the fabric. It is necessary to take into account the properties of each type of fabric:
Cotton fabrics have a high shrinkage when soaked, which is their main disadvantage. Cotton fabrics are beautiful, iron well, have little fraying and are relatively durable;
Linen fabrics shrink when soaked, wash well, stretch little, crumble, and are difficult to iron, which is the main disadvantage. Relatively durable. They look very nice and neat;
Woolen fabrics wrinkle a little, shrink a lot when soaked, are difficult to iron, and retain their shape well after ironing;
Viscose fabrics are beautiful, high-quality, and shrink when soaked; the structure of these fabrics is very flexible, which makes working with them difficult;
Synthetic fabrics have almost no shrinkage, are durable and elastic.
However, these fabrics react differently to high temperatures and require caution when ironing. My choice is gabardine fabric. Fabric properties: gabardine is a fabric made from the highest grades of carding yarn. The weave is diagonal.
7. Color and personality
Color plays a huge role in human life. It has a deep emotional impact on a person and is a means of expressiveness in the composition of clothing. Colors are divided into two groups: chromatic and achromatic. Chromatic colors are divided into warm and cold. Warm tones include colors associated with ideas about fire, the sun - red, orange, yellow. Cold tones include colors associated with the feeling of coolness, snow and ice - blue, cyan, violet. I like the black color, which is what I chose. Black color is universal, it goes with almost all colors and a skirt of this color can be combined with any color scheme in clothing. Black color is the color of intuition. Nothing should interfere - complete concentration, purity and spirituality, inspiration, wisdom. For the Japanese, black is the color of joy. Notice how expressive the face of a man in a black robe becomes. Like a picture in a frame, especially the eyes are the mirror of the soul. Contrasts with this color are very effective. In both white and black, you can rejoice and grieve, and it will be natural. Contrasts in clothing, contrasts in life - they allow you to develop a person’s intuition and spiritual qualities.
8. Technological sequence for making a skirt
1. Model development. Sketch.
2. Taking measurements.
3. Constructing a drawing of the base of the skirt.
4. Modeling the base drawing.
5. Preparing the pattern for cutting.
6. Preparing fabric for cutting:
Ironing fabric;
Lay out the patterns on the fabric;
Make shallow patterns;
Set aside seam allowances;
Make a cut.
7. Preparing the product for fitting:
Laying control stitches;
Basting darts;
Basting the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt;
Basting side seams;
Baste the bottom of the product.
8. Carrying out the first fitting:
Elimination of defects;
Mark the length of the product.
9. Processing of the product after fitting on a sewing machine:
Stitching darts;
Stitching side seams;
Processing cuts with a zigzag stitch;
Sewing a zipper into the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt;
Stitching the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt;
Processing the vents in the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt.
10. Processing the bottom edge of the skirt:
Finish the cut with a zigzag stitch;
Sweep and finish the bottom of the product.
13. Evaluation of the finished product.
14. Self-control.
9. Safety precautions when working with fabric
To avoid any accidents during work, you must follow safety rules when working with fabric.
1. Safety requirements before starting work:
Put on overalls, tuck your hair under a headscarf;
Check for rusty needles and pins;
Prepare the workplace for work, remove everything unnecessary;
Make sure that the protective grounding of the body of the electric sewing machine is present and in good condition, and that there is a dielectric mat on the floor near the machine.
2. Safety requirements during operation:
Store needles and pins in a certain place, do not leave them at the workplace;
Do not use rusty needles and pins when working, do not put needles and pins in your mouth;
When working with needles, use a thimble;
Attach patterns and fabrics with the sharp ends of pins in the direction away from you;
Store the scissors in a certain place, place them with their closed ends facing away from you, pass them to each other with the rings forward;
Do not lean close to moving parts of the sewing machine;
Do not hold your fingers near the sewing machine foot to avoid getting pierced by the needle;
Before sewing a product on a sewing machine, make sure there are no pins or needles on the seam line;
Do not bite off the thread with your teeth, but cut it with scissors;
Only one person at a time should work at the machine.
Safety rules when working with an electric iron:
1. Check the serviceability of the plug and insulation of the electrical cord of the iron;
2. Make sure there is a heat-resistant iron stand and a dielectric mat on the floor near the ironing area;
3. Before plugging in the electric iron, stand on a dielectric mat;
4. Turn the electric iron on and off only with dry hands;
5. During short breaks in operation, place the electric iron on a thermally insulating stand;
6. When working, make sure that the hot sole of the iron does not touch the electrical cord;
7. To avoid burning your hands, do not touch the hot metal parts of the iron and do not wet the material with water;
8. To avoid fire, do not leave an electric iron plugged in unattended;
9. Monitor the normal operation of the iron, do not let it overheat;
10. After working with the iron, unplug the cord.
10. Results of work
Need. I made this skirt to wear it at any time of the year, to wear it on holidays. Since my skirt is a classic style, it is comfortable for outdoor activities and various types of work. This skirt is multifunctional.
Self-esteem and economic calculation. I think I did my job quite carefully, and most importantly, I like it. Although it took more time than expected, I am not upset, since I remembered all the stages of the work that I performed very well. And to evaluate, as it seems, the people around you should not, because from the outside you can see all the shortcomings better. I like the result. Because I sewed the skirt myself, no one will have one like it.
Difficulties. Sewing this skirt was more of a pleasure than a task for me, although I had some difficulties in sewing the product. The most difficult part was chalking and sewing the zipper, since this work is completely new to me.
I saw a similar skirt in stores for 460 rubles, my version is more profitable, since I made everything with my own hands. Thus, I saved 305 rubles, and with the remaining amount I have the opportunity to sew 2 more skirts.
In general, I got what I wanted. Now, thanks to my knowledge, I can remake my wardrobe into the best one, according to my taste. If you wear what you like, what is comfortable, then you will feel comfortable and confident, and this is important for every person!
Literature
Glozman E.S., Stavrova O.B. and others, ed. Khotuntseva Yu.L. Technology. Technical labor. – Mnemoznina, 2004
Sasova I.A., Marchenko A.V. Technology: grades 5-8: Program. – M.: Ventana-Graf, 2006. – 96 p.
Simonenko V.D. Technology for grades 6, 7. - Publishing Center, 2007
Technology: Textbook for 6th grade students of secondary schools / ed. V. D. Simonenko. – M.: Ventana-Graf, 2003
Chernyakova V.N. Fabric processing technology: A textbook for general education grades 6-9. institutions. - M.: Education, 2004
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Women's skirt and its manufacture. Analysis of models of assortment analogues. Design requirements. Technical drawing and description of the model. Design calculations and development of model design features. Material requirements. Product assembly flow diagram.
Basic parameters and limitations when choosing clothes. The history of the origin and types of skirts by length and silhouette. Sketch development of the year, choice of the degree of wedge flaring, construction of a design drawing. Product manufacturing technology, quality control.
Clothing culture as a form of material culture of the people. Technologies of modern sewing production. Technological sequence of manufacturing a women's set using the latest equipment and improved processing methods.
Justification for the choice of model and material for its sewing. Methods and modes of product processing. Improving existing methods for processing the most labor-intensive components. Economic calculation of the designed technology for the manufacture of women's summer dresses.
Consideration of the main points of developing an original summer outfit: determining the model, choosing tools (sewing machine, hand needle, scissors, pins, chalk, thimble), fabrics, pattern making, cutting parts, sewing procedure, fitting.
Characteristics of design lines and analysis of the compositional structure of women's blouse and men's jacket models. Description of the appearance of the models. Table of assembly structural units of models. Characteristics of product surface division and design.
The role of lines in the visual perception of the shape of clothing, the concepts of dynamics, statics and plasticity of form. Warm and cold colors, their use in men's, women's and children's clothing, taking into account the season, figure and age. Taking into account modern trends and fashion trends.
Models of business suits for women. Aesthetic and hygienic requirements for the designed product. Wear resistance and durability of the material. Selecting a clothing demonstrator. Description of the external data and figure of the demonstrator. Description of the selected model.
A project to develop a series of skirt models based on one basic model. Information about the directions of fashion. Assortment of materials for clothing. Requirements for clothing depending on its purpose, operating conditions, age and gender of the consumer.
Democratization of costume under the influence of socio-economic development of society. A new aesthetic ideal and a dramatic change in fashion in women's clothing. Safety rules for those working on sewing machines. Technical conditions for performing manual work.
Development of a model design for a women's set for the younger age group for a typical figure in accordance with the customer's image and taking into account the promising direction of fashion. Assessment of the appearance of the model, methodology for constructing a drawing and selection of materials.
Women's suits of classic, sports, romantic and "fantasy" styles. Purpose of a formal costume. Designing clothing in industrial conditions. Aesthetic requirements for materials for lightweight women's assortment.
Rules for correcting figure flaws using clothing. Analysis of the main shortcomings of female figures and possible ways to correct them. Advantages and disadvantages of human body types. Methods for selecting the necessary clothing options to correct figure flaws.
Light industrial goods are a significant part of the domestic market. Justification for choosing a model. Functional, aesthetic, ergonomic, hygienic and operational requirements for the product. Selection of material and processing modes.
Justification for the choice of model and characteristics of the external data of the demonstrator. Characteristics of the main fabric, lining and finishing materials. Characteristics of the equipment used. The sequence of preparing a blouse and trousers for the first fitting.
Consideration of the key stages of creating a straight skirt: design (construction of parts, preparation of model sketches), construction (measuring the human figure, calculating the main parameters), drawing, modeling (changing the contours of the structure), design.
1. Place running stitches along all altered lines.
2. Remove the basting threads and turn the skirt inside out.
3. Remove the original running stitches in the places where there was a split.
4. Fold the skirt face inward, bend it along the lines of the middle of the front and back panels.
5. Shoal along new lines using a ruler or patterns.
6. Transfer new chalk lines to the second side of the product.
7. Baste the skirt along new lines.
8. Carry out a second fitting, finalizing all the lines.
Instructions for processing skirts after the first fitting
1. Processing darts(Fig. 156)
It is performed in the same way as on shoulder products. Differences may be caused by the thickness of the fabric (see Fig. 100). Wet-heat treatment of darts is different for different fabrics: on light fabrics, the darts are ironed with an internal fold towards the middle of the front or back; on fabrics of medium thickness, the darts are ironed out as counter folds; on dense fabrics, the darts are cut along the fold, not reaching 2-3 cm from the end of the dart, the sections are overcast and ironed. On thick and medium fabrics, you can sew darts with a stitched piece of fabric, then the dart is ironed to the middle of the front or back, and the stitched piece in the opposite direction.
2. Processing folds
One-sided folds(Fig. 157)
Stitch to the marked level, then turn the stitch towards the fold of the fabric; remove the basting on the seam area, leaving it from the level of the bottom to the line; Press and press folds; process the bottom of the skirt. Along the inner fold, sew a stitch from the bottom to the level of the stitching of the fold, 0.2 cm from the fold.
Iron the folds completely.
Bow pleats(Fig. 158)
Processed as one-sided, ironed with folds in different directions.
Counter folds(Fig. 159)
Stitch from top to bottom to the intended level, securing the stitch in reverse by 1.5 cm next to the first stitch; remove the top part of the basting. Iron the fold symmetrically from the midline; further processing is similar to one-sided folds.
3. Processing of raised seams
Sew seams, remove basting, overcast edges; iron or iron (according to the model); perform finishing stitch on the front side according to the model; iron the reliefs.
4. Processing of yokes
Straight yokes
They are processed similarly to the yokes on the bodice of the product.
Curly yokes
Yokes with corners and sharp curves (color table XIII) are processed with undercut facings, the width of which is equal to the width of the finishing stitch plus 0.5-0.7 cm for the facing seam plus 0.7-1 cm for the free cut. For example, according to the model, the width of the finishing stitch is 1.2 cm + 0.7 cm + 1 cm ≈ 3 cm. The allowance for the main part is less by the amount of the turning seam, i.e. ≈ 2.5 cm.
Place the yoke on the facing with the right sides facing inward and pin in several places; baste the yoke onto the facing, aligning the cuts, seating the yoke fabric at the outer corners, using 0.5 cm stitches; overstitch the yoke from the facing side 0.5 cm from the cuts. Cut off excess fabric in the corners, cut diagonally on the concave lines to the warp and weft, not reaching the stitching by 0.15 cm. Remove the basting, turn the parts inside out, sweep the seam from the facing side, straightening the corners and releasing the piping towards the facing by 0.1 -0.15 cm. Basting stitches are 0.5 cm apart from the edge by 0.5-0.7 cm; check the symmetry of the corners of the yoke, iron; baste the yoke onto the main part along the marked lines with stitches of 0.5-0.7 cm; stitch; overcast the cuts, remove the basting, iron.
5. Processing the side seams
Sew the right seam from top to bottom, the left seam from bottom to the fastener; remove the basting, trim the edges and overcast. Baste seam allowances for fastening along the marked lines with stitches of 0.7-1 cm; Press the side seams and press the fastener sections.
6. Processing the fastener with a zipper braid
In the center of the cut(Fig. 160)
Attach the open zipper to the cut so that the beginning of the links is 1-1.5 cm below the top cut of the skirt, the edges of the links coincide with the ironed sides of the cut; pin and baste along the front side of the back panel of the skirt; fasten the zipper and baste the other side so that the folds meet, closing the zipper. Adjust the zipper (preferably using a single-arm foot) with threads to match the color of the fabric. Hem the edges of the braid to the side seam allowances.
Offset relative to the cut(color plate XIV).
Release 0.2 cm from the seam allowance of the back panel to the front side from the reference line; sweep; baste the allowance of the front panel exactly along the line; iron the folds. Attach and baste the zipper tape so that the fold of the back panel does not reach the links by 0.1 cm; stitch 0.1-0.15 cm from the fold. The folded front panel of the skirt should cover the zipper and extend 0.2 cm onto the back panel. Stitch it from top to bottom 0.8-1.2 cm from the fold, and at the end secure it with a cross stitch twice. Hem the braid to the seam allowances.
7. Processing the belt with padding
Cut out the belt and padding; sew the lining onto the wrong side of the belt; Stitch the ends of the belt, cut off excess fabric and make cuts at a distance of 3 cm from the front end of the belt, not reaching the stitching by 0.1 cm. Turn the belt inside out, sweep out, iron, process the loop. Mark 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 lengths on the waistband to attach to the top of the skirt.
8. Processing the upper section of the skirt
Divide the waistline of the skirt into 4 parts; Turn the skirt inside out, place the belt inside facing the front side of the skirt, aligning the cuts and dividing points on the belt. Baste the belt to the skirt 0.7-1 cm from the cut using 0.5 cm stitches. Make a fit of the skirt to the belt; baste hangers from soutache or braid to the wrong side of the skirt: the left hanger - on the front panel near the zipper braid, the right hanger - on the side seam. Sew the belt (only the upper part) and hangers; stitch along the belt. Remove the basting and bend the sections inside the waistband. Fold the inner section of the belt by 0.7-1 cm; baste it, placing the fold along the seam of the belt. From the wrong side, hem the belt with threads in the color of the fabric (3-4 stitches per 1 cm).
You can baste the belt from the wrong side so that its fold covers the seam by 0.2 cm; machine stitch on the front side of the skirt near the waistband seam.
Iron the skirt, sew a button on the belt. Process the bottom according to the model and fabric.
TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESS FOR SKIRT PROCESSING
Initial processing of skirt parts
The initial processing will include processing darts, folds, connecting parts with yokes, overcasting sections of parts, etc.
Skirts can be made with a lining to prevent the back panel from being pulled out. In the lining of the skirt, darts are initially sewn down (darts can be replaced with soft folds), the side sections are sewn down and overcast. In the left side seam, the lining is overcast and the edges are sewn under the fastener. The bottom of the lining is finished with a hem seam with a closed cut.
The processed lining is inserted into the skirt in which the fastener is processed, the darts and notches are aligned, the upper edges are aligned and joined on a stitching machine at a distance of 5 mm from the upper edges.
Processing fasteners in skirts
Fasteners in skirts are located on the front, back panel or in the left side seam, fold.
The most common zipper is processed in two ways: at the same distance on both sides of the side seam line and at different distances. When joining, the zipper links should be hidden under the seam allowances. The fastener is processed with stitched, overcast, pressed side seams and with pressed edges of the fastener.
Processing a zipper when fastening at the same distance from folds. When sewing a zipper on a single-needle machine with a special foot, the stitch is placed at a distance of 4-7 mm from the edge of the fastener, depending on the size of the links. At the end of the fastener, the stitch is laid perpendicular to the cut at a distance of 1-5 mm from the end of the zipper links or at an angle (Fig. 17.15a).
Processing of a zipper when fastening it with displacement of the links under front panel of skirt. Under the ironed fold of the back panel of the skirt, place the right side of the woven zipper tape in the open form so that the fold of the allowance for the fastener is positioned butted against the zipper links, and the lock is at a distance of 15 mm from the top edge of the skirt. After securing the right side with pins, the zipper is closed, the fold of the allowance for the fastener on the side of the front panel is brought end-to-end to the fold of the allowance for the fastener on the side of the back panel of the skirt and pinned with three or four pins in the transverse direction, securing the front panel and the zipper. When chipping, the upper sections of the front and back panels of the skirt are aligned and a single side seam line is created. Then the zipper is opened and the parallelism of the links relative to the fold is clarified on the reverse side.
Stitching is done from the front side in one step from the top cut of the front panel to the top cut of the back panel. The front part of the zipper is secured at a distance of 8-10 mm, on the back panel of the skirt the stitching is laid at a distance of 2 mm from the fold.
Rice. 17.15- Processing zippers on skirts
Processing of a zipper with full closure of the links. A special feature of processing such a fastener is to fasten the zipper section with an offset under the front, place the links of the right side of the woven tape (3-5 mm relative to the side seam line). The allowances for side cuts in the fastener area are increased to 10-35 mm. When ironing the side seams, only the cut of the front panel fastener is ironed along the side seam line. The cut of the fastener of the back panel is folded towards the wrong side, releasing an allowance relative to the side seam line by 3-5 mm, and ironed. The right side of the woven zipper tape is placed under the fold in an open form so that the fold fits end to end with the links.
The right side of the woven zipper tape is stitched at a distance of 2 mm from the fold, ensuring free movement of the zipper lock. The zipper is closed, and the ironed fold of the zipper allowance to the front panel of the skirt is brought to the side seam line, aligning the upper edges and pinning them together.
Sew the left side of the woven tape along the front side of the front panel from above. Finish with a double or triple transverse stitch perpendicular to the side seam line or at an angle to it (Fig. 17.15. c). To stabilize the fastener and improve its appearance, a finishing stitch is made along the fold of its front part at a distance of 2 mm from the edge.
Processing the top section of the skirt with a stitched belt
The belt can be one-piece with a sub-belt or cut-off, with a seam along the fold line. In length, it can consist of two parts: with a seam at the level of the side seam or under the belt loops. The ends of the belt usually overlap each other by 30-60 mm and are fastened with a welt loop and button or a metal hook and loop. A clasp allowance can be added to each or one of the ends of the belt. The belt is made with a lining made of adhesive or non-adhesive fabric, as well as without a lining.
Before joining the skirt with the belt, the upper section of the skirt is cut, the length and width of the belt are specified.
A non-adhesive pad is applied to the inside of the belt and adjusted along the length at a distance of 2-5 mm from the fold (middle) of the belt. The lower cut of the gasket is aligned with the lower cut of the belt when using a thin non-adhesive gasket. When using a compacted non-adhesive or adhesive gasket, the bottom cut of the gasket should not reach 10 mm from the cut of the inside of the belt.
The belt is folded in the middle along the fold with the front side inward, aligning the cuts and matching the control marks. The ends of the belt are turned and turned from the gasket side. Seam allowances are cut out in the corners, leaving 3-4 mm. The belt is turned right side out, straightened and the ends are swept out using a special machine.
After ironing, the belt is connected to the upper section of the skirt. The inside of the belt is placed on the wrong side of the skirt, aligning the cuts and control marks, and stitched along the waist with a 10 mm wide seam, while placing the hanger at the level of the side seams. The belt is turned away, the seam is folded towards the belt, the lower section of the belt is folded inward and adjusted at a distance of 1-2 mm from the folded edge so that the edge covers the stitching seam of the inner part of the belt (Fig. 17.16a). The finished belt is ironed.
In products made of thick fabrics and knitted fabrics, the cut of the inner part of the belt is pre-stitched. The belt is stitched to the skirt, leveling
right sides along the outer part of the belt. The belt is folded over to the wrong side and sewn onto the skirt in a stitching seam, securing the inside of the belt (Fig. 17.16,6).
dry cleaning and wet-heat treatment.
Figure 17.17 – Processing the upper section of the skirt with a belt
When processing a skirt on a single-needle machine with a special device, the belt parts are ground off and wound onto a cassette. The belt from the cassette is tucked into
The guide is placed under the foot with folded sections between which the upper section of the skirt is inserted and stitched. In this case, the stitching is not brought to the ends of the belt by 30-40mm. The ends of the belt are stitched without any device, bending the sections inward (Fig. 17.16, c).
When processing on a two-needle machine with a device, sections of the outer and inner parts of the belt are folded (Fig. 17.16, d).
Options for processing the upper edge of the skirt with a bodice braid with hook fastening (Fig. 17.18, a) or a stitched belt with a zipper (Fig. 17.19, b).
Figure 18.19 – Processing the upper edges of the skirt
Processing the bottom edge of the skirt
The bottom of the skirt, depending on the model and the properties of the fabric, can be processed in various ways: with a hem seam with a closed cut (Fig. 17.17, a), with an overcast hem seam with an open edge (Fig. 17.17,6), edged (Fig. 17.17, c) .
The bottom of the skirt is preliminarily specified according to the pattern and the hem line of the bottom is drawn. Then the bottom section of the skirt is hemmed.
Figure 17.17 - Processing the bottom of the skirt
Final finishing of the skirt
Depending on the 01 model, loops are marked and sewn on the skirt on the belt and finishing details. 11ersd, by wet-heat treatment, stitch threads are removed, traces of chalk are removed and industrial dust is removed. The folds of the skirt are fastened at a distance of 10 mm from the bottom.
Wet-heat treatment of the skirt is carried out through a moistened ironing iron from the inside of the skirt, starting with ironing the waistband. Then iron the skirt panel, starting from the left side seam, without touching the bottom of the product. And in the process of wet-heat treatment, the product is ironed under the allowances of darts and seams of folds to remove prints. The skirt is turned right side out and laid out with the bottom edge facing the front side. The upper edge is bent to the side and the bottom is ironed with gradual movement of the product. The lasses are removed from the front side of the skirt and the skirt is steamed. Then buttons and other accessories are sewn on.
Technical description of the model.
Straight skirt made of plain dyed suit fabric.
The front panel has darts and finishing elements along the bottom.
On the back panel there is a dart, a middle seam, at the bottom of which there is a slot. The zipper is made in the middle seam at the top with a button.
The upper cut is finished with facing.
The bottom is hemmed with an open cut and finished with a finishing stitch.
Technological sequence for processing
vents on the skirt
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The name of the operation |
Speciality |
Discharge |
Equipment |
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Mark the location |
patterns, chalk |
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Duplicate the spline allowances |
UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky |
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Overcast the middle sections of the back panels |
51 class, PO "Promshveimash", Podolsk |
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Stitch the middle section of the rear panels |
1022 class, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
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Cut the allowance at the top right side of the spline | ||||
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Press the middle seam |
UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky |
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Iron the right spline allowance onto the spacer |
UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky |
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Grind the corner of the slot along the edge line |
1022 class, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
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Trim the seam allowance | ||||
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Align the corner of the right side | ||||
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Sweep the bottom of the product |
needle, thimble |
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Iron the bottom and vent |
UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky |
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Stitch along the edge |
1022 class, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
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Grind the left corner of the slot |
1022 class, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
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Cut out excess seam | ||||
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Align Left Corner | ||||
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Sweep the left edge of the slot and the bottom completely |
needle, thimble |
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Iron the left corner and bottom of the product |
UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky |
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Place a finishing stitch along the bottom and secure the vent with a finishing stitch at an angle of 450 to the center line of the seam |
1022 class, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
Technological operating card
for processing the slots in the skirt
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Operation: processing the slots in the skirt |
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Specialty R M U Rank 1.3 1.2 1.2 Standard time, from 2400 |
Equipment: 1022 cells, Orsha JSC, Belarus, 51 cells, Promshveimash Production Association, Podolsk, UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky, scissors, needle, thimble, pattern, chalk |
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Material: suit, plain dyed |
Ironing surface temperature 140 0 C, “Ideal” thread 50-80, frequency 2.5 stitches per 1 cm. |
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Requirements for quality of execution |
Processing scheme |
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Check the cut details: The back half with a middle seam is 2 pieces, cut out with an allowance for the vent width. 4-5cm, length equal to the length of the slot plus 1.0-1.5cm. Adhesive gasket 2 pcs. Overcast the sections of the back panel. Mark the slot. On the left side, the edge line should be a continuation of the middle seam. On the right cutting line, the slots run at a distance of 0.7-1.5 cm from the cut. Duplicate the allowances, the left side is 0.1-0.2 cm from the fold of the slot and the bottom line, the right side so that the cut of the gasket does not reach the side cut by 0.7-1.5 cm, to the bottom line 0.1-0, 2 cm and overlapping the middle seam line by 1.5-2.0 cm |
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The parts of the rear halves are folded facing inwards, aligning the cuts, the middle seam and the upper allowance are sewn down, slots 0.7-1.5 not reaching the side cut, the seam width is 1.0-1.5 cm of the upper allowance. Cut the allowance at the top of the right side of the slot, not reaching the line 0.1 cm. Iron the middle seam through a damp ironing iron. | |
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The right side is processed: ironed 0.5 cm onto the spacer. The corner is turned, the allowances and excess are cut off. Turn the bottom of the skirt inside out and cover it, iron it. Along the edge of the 0 slots, a stitch is laid 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge. |
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Having processed the left corner, grinding it at an angle of 450 to the bottom line, sweep the edge of the vents and the bottom of the skirt. Iron using a damp iron until the moisture is completely removed. Place a finishing stitch along the bottom of the product and secure it at an angle of 450 to the middle seam, sew starting from the middle seam and finish, not reaching 1.0-1.5 cm from the side allowances of the slots. |
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PROCESSING THE CUT OF A STRAIGHT SKIRT.
SIMPLE FIGURED CLACK
Mark the tack with three lines in the form of an equilateral triangle.
It is advisable to sew a machine stitch or a line of small hand straight stitches along the contour of the bartack.
You should start from the lower left corner of the triangle, fasten the end of the thread to the wrong side and bring the needle to the front side of the left corner (point 1 in Fig. 01).
Then in the upper corner make a very short stitch from right to left (points 2 and 3), pull the thread to the front side.
Insert the needle into the lower right corner (point 4) and make a stitch from the wrong side, bring the thread out in the left corner immediately before the first needle puncture (point 5 in Fig. 02).
Carry out the fastening in accordance with the presented diagram until the triangle is completely filled with stitches.
The finished simple tack should have the shape of an equilateral triangle (Fig. 04). The stitches should not be tightened, otherwise the bartack will take the shape of a “star”.
COMPLEX FIGURE CLACK
Mark the tack with three lines in the form of an equilateral triangle. Along the contour of the bartack, sew a machine stitch or a line of small hand straight stitches.
Carry out the fastening in accordance with Fig. 05 and 06.
In Fig. 07 shows a complex curly tack in finished form.
ATTACHING THE SPLINES ON THE WRONG SIDE
To prevent damage to the product during operation
You can secure the beginning of the slots from the wrong side. To do this, cut out a square from the lining or top fabric, the length of each side is approximately 6 cm. Fold the cut piece diagonally in the form of a triangle. Iron and sweep over the cuts. The hypotenuse of the resulting triangle has the necessary elasticity, this will avoid rupture of the material when the spline is strongly stretched. Sew the triangle to the wrong side of the skirt, stitching along the edge of the finished vent. Use blind stitches to hem the triangle allowances to the vent allowances.