Probably, many are familiar with the situation when, due to the constant carrying of keys in the pockets of a jacket, their linings very quickly become unusable - the fabric unravels, the seams tear, and the entire contents of the pocket fall into the lining of the product.

Sewing up the lining where the seam is torn or moving the seam slightly away from the unraveling fabric solves this problem only for a short time, after which the pocket becomes unusable again. The optimal solution in this case may be to replace the worn lining of the pockets with parts made of new dense fabric.

How to repair pockets or change the lining of pockets in a men's jacket with your own hands

Before you begin the repair, you need to turn the jacket inside out. The easiest way to do this is to rip out a small section of the bottom seam in the lining of one of the sleeves.

Quite often, finished products already have such a hole, stitched on a machine along the front side of the lining. It is technological and served specifically to turn things right side out. You just need to find it. If there is none, you need to rip out the seam of the sleeve yourself.

Through the hole, you need to turn out the section of the jacket with the pocket processed on it and carefully study the technology of its processing. If the latter allows you to easily replace the pads, they need to be marked with chalk (indicate the top and bottom), since they may vary in size. This simple operation will simplify the process of assembling the pocket with new linings.

Then you need to carefully flog the worn pocket linings.

They should be ironed carefully, since new pocket parts will be cut from them.

In general, for the manufacture of pocket linings there is a special fabric, the so-called “pocket”. In essence, it is just high-quality black calico. If there is none, you can use a piece of any other suitable fabric. The main thing is that it is dense and has low fraying and spreading of threads. As for the color of the linings, it is not necessary to opt for a color similar to the color of the jacket, since this part of the pocket, firstly, is practically invisible, and, secondly, made in an interesting color, can even become the “highlight” of the updated products.

Lining fabric should be ironed thoroughly. Then you need to put the details of the whipped lining on it. Use tailor's chalk or soap to outline them. All seam allowances will be taken into account. Then all that remains is to cut out the new linings along the marked lines, indicating whether they are top or bottom.

After this, the new linings should be stitched to the corresponding pocket parts.

Then you need to sew the pocket linings together. This operation must be performed with a small double stitch. Pockets stitched in this way last much longer and are not afraid of any stress.

The restored pocket must be turned back to its original position. The second pocket should be repaired in the same way, after which all that remains is to sew up the hole in the sleeve.

The repair of the pockets is completely completed. Thanks to him, your favorite jacket can serve for more than one season.

If suddenly your favorite jacket is torn in the most visible place, and you don’t know what to do, check out our article, in which we will tell you how to sew up a hole in a jacket so that it is not visible. There are several ways to make a hole invisible, most of which are universal. Therefore, you should not be upset about a torn item, since the situation is not the worst and can be completely solvable, even without the services of a workshop. Today we will tell you how to repair a torn jacket, depending on the material of the product and the type of hole.

My jacket is torn - what should I do?

Unfortunately, the quality of the material from which outerwear is made is not always satisfactory; sometimes even a new jacket can tear due to a slight snag. To correct the situation, you can use simple methods:

• Sew up (darn) the gap.
• Tape it up.
• Conceal with braid or reflective tape.
• Apply a payment.
• Use thermal stickers and applications.

Of course, the choice of repair method depends not only on the material, but also on the location of the hole. Agree, you can use a beautiful sticker only where appropriate, and sewing up a Bolognese jacket is not entirely aesthetically pleasing. Next, we will introduce you to various methods for repairing outerwear, depending on the type of damage, and tell you how to seal a bolone jacket at home. And in order for the thing to become like new, there are a few more secrets. For example, you can.

How to fix a hole in a jacket at the seam?

The simplest repair method is used if the jacket is torn at the seam. In this case, you do not need to invent anything, since such a hole can be sewn up with threads. Moreover, such a gap can be eliminated even without a sewing machine.

The repair process looks quite simple:

1. Choose threads that match the color.
2. Turn the product inside out and place it on the table.
3. If there is a lining, then spread it out so that it is more convenient to work with the damaged area.
4. Thread the needle and carefully sew up the hole. Try to sew in such a way that the new line becomes a continuation of the old one, and the seam differs as little as possible from the factory one.
5. Sew the lining and turn the product inside out.

If you don't want to rip the lining, sew the jacket with a blind seam. For this:

1. Insert the needle from the wrong side of the fabric (so that the knot on the thread is not visible) and sew the hole from the front side with parallel stitches.
2. The distances between stitches should be the same.
3. After the hole is completely sewn up, fasten the thread and carefully hide it inside.

Important! Braid or reflective tape will help to disguise a torn seam on a jacket. You can sew the braid in different ways. Your imagination will help you in the decorating process. Similarly, you can manually sew up the hole under the arm with an invisible seam. Don't be afraid to experiment with color and length:

• A well-chosen braid can not only mask a torn seam, but also make the jacket stylish and original.
• A reflective tape sewn into the place of a defect or across the entire width (length) of the jacket will not only look spectacular, but will also make the product more visible at night.

Or maybe the hole that has appeared is just a reason to give things a new life? We offer you some interesting and fashionable ideas:

How to “hide” a hole under a zipper?

If the cut on the trigger is in a place where a zipper is quite appropriate, then use the following trick: insert the zipper into the damaged area.

Important! For symmetry, you can insert a zipper on the other side. This option will not only save the thing, but also give it a kind of originality.

To make a torn jacket look like new, use decorative buttons or rivets instead of a zipper. To do this, cover the slit with a spare piece of fabric (usually sold with the jacket) and punch it with buttons. The result is a decorative element.

If you have more than one demi-season outerwear in your wardrobe, but also high-quality, but not quite fashionable leather jackets, we will tell you.

Bolognese jacket repair

The densified artificial fabric - bologna, is made of polymer threads treated with a water-repellent and airtight composition. Bologna jackets perfectly protect from rain and damp fog, so they are perfect for picnics and hiking.

Important! The rubberized material was invented by the Italian engineer Giulio Natta, and the fabric got its name thanks to the Italian city of Bologna, where the inventor lived.

Clothing made from Bologna has long gained popularity among many peoples, as it is indispensable in the wet and cold seasons. Unfortunately, rubberized fabric is not as high tensile strength as we would like, which is why owners of such clothing often have to decide how to put a patch on the outside of a bologna trigger, because the material is not so easy to sew up. And there can be plenty of reasons for clothing damage:

• Burnt by a cigarette or hot object.
• Cut (by a blade or sharp object).
• Snags from a sharp object, such as a nail.

Materials for work

In order to repair a polyester jacket with your own hands, you may need the following materials:

• Glue “Super Moment” or KP-1.
• Acetone or gasoline for degreasing.
• A piece of fabric for a patch, matching the color.
• Polyethylene or non-woven fabric.
• Application.
• Iron.
• Gauze or soft natural fabric.

A light and comfortable bologna jacket can be sealed in several ways using the above materials. Let us consider in detail each method of solving the problem.

Method number 1. Repair using a fabric patch

In order to seal the hole, prepare a piece of fabric and glue that is suitable in size, texture and color.

Proceed as follows:

1. Turn the product inside out and lay it out on a flat surface.
2. Degrease the tear area from the reverse side with acetone or gasoline.
3. Apply a thin layer of Supermoment glue (KP-1) to the patch fabric.
4. Connect the edges of the hole neatly and evenly.
5. Apply a patch.
6. Place the repair area under the press for a few minutes (according to the instructions for the glue used).
7. Turn the jacket inside out and evaluate the result of the work. If traces of the tear are visible on the front side, then disguise them using embroidered applique, which is sold in sewing and craft stores.

Important! If a sports jacket is torn, the tear area can be covered with thematic inscriptions or pictures. You can also apply an internal seam and thus sew the torn area on the jacket.

Method number 2. We use polyethylene or non-woven fabric

To seal a polyester jacket, prepare: a special tape made of dry glue (non-woven fabric), a piece of fabric that matches the color, an iron and gauze.

Important! Instead of non-woven fabric, you can use regular cellophane.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Turn the product inside out and place it on the table.
2. Spread the lining to get to the cut area.
3. Cut a piece of polyethylene or non-woven fabric slightly smaller than the patch.
4. Carefully bring the edges of the tear together.
5. Apply polyethylene (non-woven fabric) from the inside out and carefully smooth it out.
6. Place a fabric patch on top of the non-woven fabric (cellophane).
7. Iron the joint using gauze or soft cloth. The polyethylene will melt and securely fix the patch.
8. Turn the product inside out and admire the result.

Of course, a line may be visible on the break line, but this is not scary, because only you will know about it, and the line will not be visible to others.

Repairing a burnt hole

Regardless of the cause of the burn, the hole must be eliminated. The problem can be solved in several ways, depending on the size and style of the product, as well as the size of the tear. Here are several options to solve the problem:

• If the clothes have various rivets, embroideries or patterns, then sew additional accessories on the problem area that match the style of the clothes.
• If a whole hole appears on the surface of the product, then disguise it using patches on both sides (front and back) and a patch that matches the color, shape and style. First glue one piece of fabric on the wrong side, and cut the second piece of fabric slightly larger than the hole. Glue the patch on the front side. Disguise the patch with a patch or applique. For symmetry, you can make a patch in another place of clothing.

As you can see, there are many ways to “give a second life” to your favorite jacket. Use the option you like and wear this irreplaceable item for a long time and with pleasure. Good luck!

Leather jacket repair

New problem. The entrance to the pocket of the leather jacket is torn

There's no need to grieve. There is always a way out of any situation. You can throw the item away, or you can try to repair it. You never know what you can do till you try.
We don't want to change the design of the jacket, so we choose a restoration that is close to the original.
1. Steam the belt
2. Hem the side seams. If possible, I do not cut the entire product, so that there is less work.
3. In this case, cut out pieces of damaged leather on one side and symmetrically on the other.

By chance I had a piece of leather of the right color at hand. We cut out blanks from it according to the size of the cut flaps, not forgetting to add a seam allowance of 2 cm and mark the entry points for the pocket.
Using pins, transfer the marks to the wrong side.

Let's prepare 2 lobes from adhesive non-woven fabric, 4cm wide, length: pocket entrance plus 4cm

and glue it with a not very hot iron without steam through a paper napkin. We will definitely check the temperature on an unnecessary piece of skin.

On the front side we will draw a frame for the entrance to the pocket

We iron the burlap pockets with surviving facings, restore them if necessary, and sew up the holes.

Place the burlap on the drawn frame and sew it to one side , leaving long tails of thread. Let's bring the threads to the wrong side and tie knots. Do not trim. The tails will be useful to us later.

On the other side we will mark a frame, if we have not done so before, and cut out the entrance to the pocket. We cut in the middle from the center to the ends, not reaching 1 cm from the edge. We cut to the corners at 45 degrees.

To secure the seam allowances, tape the transfer around the perimeter. If you can’t find one, you can coat it with shoe glue and hammer it in

Even if there are still frosts ahead, let's start preparing for spring.

Let's sew a light jacket using padding polyester. (although it can be made warmer if desired.)

We will sew something like this:

This is, of course, a down jacket, but ours will be even more beautiful.

Let’s not worry about quilting the fabric; there are plenty of fabrics on sale already quilted onto synthetic padding. Beautiful...

When choosing a fabric, pay attention to whether there is a thin interlining between the main upper fabric and the padding polyester. If there is, then very good. The synthetic winterizer will not come to the surface.
It's rare, but it happens.

We will need fabric: jacket length + sleeve length + 20 cm for hem and seam allowances. If your size is from 50, then add another 15-20 cm to the collar.

I still couldn’t buy pre-quilted fabric, so we’ll do the quilting ourselves.
ready-made ones were either expensive: 2,500 rubles per meter, or lining fabric was quilted onto the padding polyester. This was passed off as a “jacket” at 650 rubles per meter.

The raincoat for stitching needs to be thin.
The girls asked about natural fabrics. They are usually denser and quilted with insulation to “stand up”. Natural jacket fabrics are more suitable for men's jackets and for sewing parkas.

So, my expenses:

Raincoat fabric (250 rubles per meter) - 1.5 m
padding polyester (60 rubles per meter with a width of 1.5 m) - 2 m (just in case, 1.7 m is possible)
The basic fabric costs 540 rubles.

You will also need lining fabric.
Take an ordinary synthetic one, inexpensive, durable, which does not fall apart in your hands. As much as raincoat fabrics.

If the fabric is an unusual color, the tone of which is difficult to match with a zipper, then first find a suitable zipper, and then adjust the length of the jacket to it.
If the jacket is black, white, gray, etc., then it will be easier to pick up a zipper for it.
We will buy later, the right size.
When the jacket is long, it is convenient if the zipper has 2 sliders. When you sit down, you can unzip it from below.

The synthetic winterizer is thinner, thicker - puffier. Note that the thicker the padding polyester, the puffier your jacket will be.
There is also a holofiber and some other insulating materials. Take any insulation, except for batting. With batting, the jacket will be unbearable.

We will quilt already cut out details.

There was a question about what threads are suitable for stitching. I have seen jacket fabrics on sale quilted with thick threads, the same as those used to stitch jeans. Beautiful.
But can you quilt just as beautifully?
Thick threads usually create problems when sewing. If you apply a weak tension, loops appear on the front side of the fabric; if you apply a stronger tension, it tightens the fabric.

So most likely we will quilt with the same threads as we sew.
I can't say for sure yet. I will open my jacket, try different threads for stitching, and then I will tell you.

Some girls asked about knitted cuffs on the sleeves. Not every city has ready-made cuffs for sale; you can, of course, knit it yourself, but I planned sleeves without cuffs.

Taking measurements

Get ready, taking measurements is a very important stage.

Let me remind you that you need to tie a lace or elastic band around your waist to fix the location of the waist line. We have many measurements just from her.

To create a pattern for our quilted jacket, we will need the following measurements:

1. Chest circumference (measured horizontally through the most protruding points of the chest, on the back the protrusion of the shoulder blades is taken into account)

2. Waist circumference (horizontally at the narrowest point of the figure)

3. Hip circumference (horizontally across the widest part of the hips through the most protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen)

4. Neck circumference (horizontally along the base of the neck)

5. Shoulder length (measured from the intersection line of the shoulder and the neck circumference line to the end point of the shoulder)

6. Shoulder circumference (measured across the fullest part of the arm)

7. Front width (measured along the front between the armpits)

8. Back width (measured along the back between the armpits)

9. Back length to waist (measured from the starting point of the shoulder to the waist line).

10. Length of the front to the waist (measured vertically along the front from the point of intersection of the base of the neck and the shoulder line through the most protruding point of the chest to the waist)

11. Side height (measured from the waist to the armpit)

12. Sleeve length (measured along a slightly bent arm from the end point of the shoulder to the wrist)

13. Wrist circumference

14. Oblique shoulder height (measured along the back from the spine at the waist line to the extreme point of the shoulder)

15. Length of the product from the waist (measured from the waist line to the line of the desired length of the product)

The girls asked how to take measurements of themselves.

Difficult. Some measurements are completely impossible. For example, the width of the back.

You'll have to ask someone.

Show your assistant a picture of how to take the required measurement, and check the correctness in the mirror.

If you don’t tend to change your body size often (well, at least the length :))), then taking measurements once can be useful for sewing several things.

Constructing a pattern

I won’t torment you with the theory of selecting and calculating increases for a jacket.

I offer ready-made figures. If you have doubts, or you are used to checking everything, then measure some finished jacket, the degree of fit of which suits you. You can take your own increment values.

In any case, increases and their distribution according to standards are not a constant value. Only you determine what degree of freedom your jacket will have. Larger increases mean greater freedom of fit, smaller increases mean the jacket will fit you more.

1. I suggest taking an increase in chest (to the whole chest girth) from 15 to 20 cm. No more than 20 cm. If you take 20 cm, then the jacket will be very loose.

2. Increase in hip circumference - 10 - 15 cm. If you take a smaller increase for the chest, then take a smaller value for the hips.

3. The increase in the waist will happen by itself, then you will see from the construction.

4. increase to the back width of 4-5 cm, to the chest width - 3-4 cm.

I write about the remaining increases in the formation.

Write the increments on the measurement plate right away so as not to get confused.

I do this: opposite the name of the measurement, I write the exact measurement from the figure, and next to it the measurement with the increase and circle it.

And it is clear that when constructing we use a measurement from a circle, and a measurement from a figure will be useful for checking or for constructing another pattern.

Shelf

1. Draw a horizontal line. This is the waist line. We sign so as not to get confused.

2. Stepping back 5 cm from the right edge of the paper, place a point on the waist line through which we draw a perpendicular. This is the mid-front line.

3. From the waist up along this line of the middle front, we set aside the measurement Dtp + 1 cm, the so-called increase per bag - by the thickness of the quilted fabric (front waist length + 1 cm). Let's call the resulting point A3.

4. Draw a perpendicular to the left to point A3.

5. Along this perpendicular we plot the value (Osh (Neck circumference): 6). Let's call the resulting point A4.

6. Down from point A3 we set the depth of the neck. It is 1 cm larger than the width. Point A5

We are increasing the width and depth of the front neckline by 1.5 cm so that the collar does not pinch :)

8. From the resulting point, set aside 4 cm down for the bevel of the shoulder. Let's call point 4.

9. Draw line A4,4. Extend a little beyond point 4.

10. From the waist down along the middle front line, set aside the value (About (hip circumference): 5).

Draw a perpendicular to the left from the resulting point. This is the hip line. Let's sign.

That is, the distance from the waist line to the hip line is calculated using the formula (About: 5).

Back

1. From the middle of the front along the hip line we set aside the value (Chest circumference) plus Increase in chest: 2) (Og + Pg): 2.

From the resulting point we draw a perpendicular upward. This is the line of the middle of the back.

2. Along the line of the middle of the back up from the waist, we put aside the measurement Dst + 2 cm, an increase due to the thickness of the quilted fabric (Back length to waist + 2). We call the resulting point A.

3. From point A to the right, draw a perpendicular. We set aside the value (Osh (Neck circumference): 6). We put point A1.

4. Place 2 cm down from point A. This is the depth of the neck.

After drawing the neck line, widen it by 1.5 cm. This is necessary for outerwear.

We increase the back neckline only by 1.5 cm in width. Leave the depth at 2 cm until fitting.

5. From point A1 to the right, set aside the measurement DP plus 1 cm for a good fit and plus 1 cm for freedom (Shoulder length + 2 cm)

6. From this point downwards we set aside 3 cm for the shoulder bevel. We get point 3.

7. Draw line A1,3. Place the measurement Dp + 3 cm on it again.

Create a dart in the middle of the shoulder. The middle of the dart is perpendicular to the shoulder line. The length of the dart is 8-9 cm, the opening of the tuck is 2 cm.

8. We check whether the measurement in the drawing corresponds to Vpk (the height of the shoulder is oblique). We measure from point Tc to point 3. If it is more, leave it like that until trying on. The main thing is not less. If it is less, then reduce the bevel of the shoulder (from the horizontal line of the shoulder we put not 3 cm down, but less. As much as is needed according to your Vpc measurement).

9. From the waist line, place the measurement Wb (Side Height) up. Draw a line from the middle of the back to the middle of the front. Let’s label it “chest line.”

At the intersection of the chest line with the line of the middle of the front we get the GP point, at the intersection with the line of the middle of the back we get the GS point.

Cutting and stitching

The hardest part is over. There are only pleasures left

Uncover

Before cutting, be sure to check the fabric for defects. It is ideal to do this during purchase or upon receipt from a client. But before cutting, we inspect the fabric again, in case we missed something or something new appeared.

If you are worried that you may have constructed the pattern incorrectly, or are afraid of ruining the fabric, then cut the jacket from unnecessary cheap fabric, from an old sheet, for example.

Try it on, make sure that the jacket still “fits” you, that the sleeve fits into the armhole, etc., and only then cut your raincoat fabric.

We place the patterns on the fabric, observing the direction of the grain thread, the direction of the pattern (if any) and the pile, and pin it with tailor’s pins.

We trace each pattern with chalk along the contour, drawing the second contour by retreating to the seam allowance.

Since the jacket is outerwear, and even with padding polyester, and if you also quilt yourself, then the seam allowances at the shoulder, side seams, at the armhole, at the middle seam of the sleeve are 2 cm, at the neck - 1-1.3 cm , the hem allowance for the hem and hem of the sleeve is at least 5 cm.

Cut out without detaching the pattern from the fabric.

Small parts must also be placed on the fabric, check that everything fits, but do not cut out. During fitting, sometimes you have to change the length of the collar, or even the shape. It’s better to cut out small details after fitting.

Stitch

For quilting, we draw lines on the front side of the cut parts with a sharpened soap (chalk can be difficult to clean off from the fabric) along which we will quilt. These can be rhombuses, squares, just horizontal or vertical lines. Don’t come up with a very complex pattern, it will be very difficult to quilt.

We place a part, for example a shelf, on the padding polyester and cut out the padding polyester along the contour of the part with a small allowance, 2-2.5 cm.

We chop off the detail of the cut and the synthetic winterizer along the contour and along the stitch lines quite often so that it does not move during work.

First, we lay a line along the contour of the part, stepping back from the edge of 4-5 mm, cut off the extra padding polyester along the edges, then we quilt the entire part along the pre-drawn lines.
Stitch length is maximum.

Fitting

I think everyone has already cut out their jacket. Let's move on to the fitting.

For fitting you need:

1. baste shoulder and side seams, middle sleeve seam, baste sleeves. “Assemble” the product.

2. We don’t baste the collar, pockets, cuffs, but we prepare at least the patterns

Fitting

We pin the product as it will be in finished form.

What you need to pay attention to when trying on:

1. Overall balance of the product.

Let's see if the shelf or back is too tight. This may be the case if the measurements of the length of the back to the waist or the shelf to the waist are incorrectly taken.

2. Position of shoulder seams.

We look to see if the shoulder seam line extends too far onto the front or back

3. Shoulder length.

The length of the shoulder should be proportional to the silhouette of the product (a loose silhouette corresponds to an elongated shoulder)

4. Shoulder height

We look for diagonal folds in the shoulder area, which disappear if the shoulder is raised.

5. Neckline

The fabric should not “run” onto the neck.

The neckline should not be too large, but it should not be tight either.

6. Side seams.

They should be vertical unless the model specifies anything else.

7. The degree of fit of the product in the area of ​​the chest, waist and hips.

Perhaps we are discussing it with the client.

8. The width of the product is at the measurement level of Chest Width and Back Width.

Move around a little to determine the degree of freedom in this area.

9. Bottom of the product.

We check that the bottom line is horizontal, unless the model specifies otherwise.

10. Sleeve fit.

Let's see if the sleeve fits well. I point out the diagonal creases on only one side of the sleeve to the incorrect fit of the sleeve.

We check whether the height of the sleeve cap corresponds to the armhole. The height of the eyelet needs to be changed if it has diagonal creases on both sides.

11. We specify the length of the product and the length of the sleeve.

12. We specify the shape and size of the collar by applying the pattern.

13. We specify the shape and size of the pocket and valves. If it is a consignment note, we pin the pocket pattern in place, if it is welt, we simply mark it with lines.

We mark all changes, stabbing with tailor's pins, we additionally do

Clarifying entries.

We make changes to the cut according to the pinned pins and according to the notes that you made during

Trying time.

A second fitting is necessary if the figure or model of the jacket is complex, and after the first fitting it is not clear whether the product will fit well after making changes to the cut.

The second fitting is carried out in the same way as the first.

Basics

After fitting, we make adjustments to the cut. Mark the location of the pockets.

There is a video fitting of another jacket on the site, take a look, maybe it will be useful in some way:

Pockets

I decided to simplify it - we’ll just make a pocket with a leaf, without a zipper.

Such a pocket can be made on both shelves at the bottom, and as an internal one - on the lining in the chest area.

Be sure to practice making a pocket on a piece of fabric. Do 1,2,3 practice pockets until you get a good one.

The width of the pocket (leaves) in finished form is 2 cm, length - 14-15 cm for a women's jacket, 16-17 cm for a men's jacket. The main thing is that your hand fits freely into your pocket.

We will need to cut out:

Leaflet (a rectangle made of the main fabric of the fabric 4 cm longer than the entrance to the pocket and 6-7 cm wide),

Valance (a rectangle made of the main fabric the same size as the leaf), pocket burlap (from the lining fabric, or from the main fabric)

Glue the leaf with adhesive cloth.

1. draw the entry point to the pocket:

Width, pocket length and center line (turquoise line)

2. on the piece of paper and on the valance, at a distance of 1 cm from the edge, draw stitch lines

3. from the side of the middle of the shelf, attach a leaf to the middle line face to face, from the side - a valance

3. Topstitch the leaf and valance

4. make a cut along the midline not reaching 1-1.5 cm to the end of the lines, at the ends - diagonally towards the corners (pink line on the pocket markings)

Be careful not to cut 1-1.5 mm to the last stitch so as not to damage the thread

5. turn the valance and the leaf inside out, sweep out the leaf, folding it to the desired width - up to 2 cm

6. sew 1 piece of burlap pocket to the leaf (in the seam of attaching the leaf to the shelf)

7. Unscrew and sweep the burlap as it will be finished, sharpen the pocket along the face on the side where the leaves are stitched (for fastening and finishing). You can sew a stitch by stepping back 1-2 mm, or on the presser foot.

8. stitch 2 pieces of pocket burlap to the free edge of the valance

9. secure the pins (along the width of the pocket), which we got when notching to the corners, with a stitch, as if sewing them to a piece of paper

10. stitch together the burlap pocket details

11. stitch the remaining 3 sides of the pocket

Even if you don't make welt pockets on your jacket, learning how to make this pocket will be very useful to you.

Sewing the top. Lining

The jacket is easy to sew:

1. sew shoulder seams

2. sew the top collar into the neck of the jacket

3. attach a zipper to both shelves

4. sew the sleeve into the armhole

5. sew the side seam and the sleeve seam at the same time

Lining

The lining is cut out using the same pattern as the top of the jacket, minus the lining and back facing (I highlighted them in pink).

From the main fabric we cut out the lining and back facing

From the lining - the rest

Seam allowances on the shoulder, side seams and lined sleeves are the same as on the top of the jacket.

Seam allowance at the bottom is 1.5 cm, at the bottom of the sleeve - 3-4 cm

1. stitch the edge to the shelf

2. sew the back facing to the back part

3. sew the shoulder seams on the lining

4. sew the lower collar (from the main fabric) into the neck of the lining

5. sew the sleeve into the armhole of the lining

6. sew down the side seam of the lining and at the same time the sleeve seam

You can make a pocket on the lining in the chest area. You can invoice or not be too lazy and make a welt with a leaflet, such as I described in the last post.

The jacket is ready!

Stop being lazy, let's finish the jacket. I've walked mine a couple of times already.

This is what happened

And this is how the lining is sewn to the top of the jacket:

1. We fold the upper part of the jacket and the lining face to face, grind along the middle of the shelf, where the zipper is, and along the collar. We lay the finishing line (stepping back on the foot) along the zipper and along the flyaway part of the collar.

2. Turn the sleeve inside out and straighten the lining on the sleeve. If necessary, cut the lining of the sleeve, it should be the same length as the sleeve in the finished tucked form.

3. We process the bottom of the sleeve to a hem with a closed cut (tuck 1 cm, tuck another as much as you left for the hem). We simply put the lining in the fold.

4. We sew the upper and lower collars together along the seam allowance (the one between the collar and the neckline)

5. Attach the lining to the top in the shoulder area.

6. We process the bottom of the jacket in a hem with a closed cut (tuck it 1 cm, tuck it in as much as you left for the hem). We simply put the lining in the fold.

The jacket is ready!

Here's the back view without the belt

Here with a belt

My mannequin, unlike me, has breast sizes 2-3. In my opinion, this jacket fits him perfectly without any darts. So this cut seems to be suitable for both thin and curvy girls.

P.S. Girls! All questions about the cut and tailoring of this jacket you can ask the author of the article Elena Kucherova

Pockets are simply an integral element of modern clothing. Jeans, trousers, jackets, jackets, sweaters, shorts and even dresses - all of them can have, and in most cases have, pockets. It is very unpleasant when you take off or put on clothes and find a torn pocket.

How to sew up holes in different pockets

Pockets are of different types, depending on this, the technologies for their repair are different.

Sew up the welt pocket

A welt pocket is like the front pocket of jeans. If it is torn from the inside, turn the garment inside out. You will see burlap - a part of the pocket that is invisible to the eye, usually made of a different fabric. Iron it, stitch it on a typewriter in the place of the gap or lay a neat hand-stitch “back needle”. Pay attention to the traces of the factory seam.

If a product with welt pockets is lined and it is impossible to turn it inside out to get to the burlap, then simply pull the pocket out. Usually holes in such pockets are formed because the seam has come apart. At the point of the break, remove excess threads, fold both parts of the pocket inward, sew up the hole with small tight stitches, picking up several threads of fabric from one side or the other. Secure the seam with a double knot and hide the end of the thread inside. Now tuck your pocket.

If the material of the welt pocket is leaky, you can apply a neat patch from the inside. Another option is to replace the fabric. To do this, the old pocket is ripped off, the parts are smoothed out and applied to a new piece of fabric as a pattern. Then they are outlined, cut out, stitched together along the contour, and inserted inside the slot for the pocket so that all the seams are inside the product. The pocket is sewn to the product using small hidden stitches.

Repairing a patch pocket

If you need to sew on a torn patch pocket (for example, the back pocket of jeans), the product is also ironed in the place of the intended seam. Then threads are selected that best match the color and thickness of the original ones. Strictly along the line of the old seam, a machine stitch is laid with these threads or stitched with a “back needle” seam, imitating a machine seam. The threads are secured with knots on the wrong side of the product.