« Best friends girls are diamonds,” the famous song says. And each friend needs to know what is called, to the core. Diamonds are no exception. How to understand the world of jewelry terms and choose the right stone? What to look for when making such a significant purchase? Let's try to figure it out.

Why are diamonds valued?

Everyone knows that a diamond is a cut diamond. And the fact that nature does not create so many of these stones is also a well-known fact. And even the fact that diamond is the hardest known mineral is not news either. So what is the most important characteristic of diamonds?

And what attracts jewelers in a diamond? There is only one answer - shine. The very name of the stone is translated from French as "brilliant". When light is reflected in a diamond, it shimmers with all the colors of the rainbow. Best of all, diamonds reflect. It is under the light of lamps that the brightness and playfulness of the stone appear in all its glory. By the way, this is one of the reasons why wearing diamond jewelry before 5 pm is considered not quite decent.

Profitable investment

Now the fashion for wearing diamonds “everywhere and always” has passed. The purchase of a diamond ring is seen more as an investment than as a definition of status in society. Compared to other gemstones, diamonds do not "age" over time. They are afraid of a direct blow with a hammer or stone. All other external factors are insignificant for them. And from the point of view of investment, it is necessary to study how and how diamonds differ from each other. And what characteristic of diamonds is preferable in different cases.

Assessment according to the 4C system

There are not many diamond mining countries in the world. And they are located in different parts of the world. But there are many more buyers. And everyone wants to buy, if not the most beautiful, then the most “correct” stone. The world practice of evaluating diamonds has been established for a long time and is based on the fact that the characteristics of diamonds are described by four indicators: weight, color, clarity (transparency) and cut. Until a stone is cut, it is only a diamond. No play of light and jewelry significance. Only a correctly and professionally cut stone is able to refract light and sparkle. And be called a diamond. Actually, the 4C system got its name from the first letters of the words in English, which characterize the classiness of the stone: carat (mass), color (color), clarity (purity), cut (cut).

Diamond weight

Weight, as with all gemstones, is measured in carats. 1 carat is 0.2 grams. That is how much 1 carat wood grain weighed, which has been used since ancient times as a standard measure of weight for jewelry. The modern carat is divided into 100 parts. Because the weight (and size) allows you to classify a diamond into one of the groups: small (up to 0.29 carats), medium (from 0.3 to 0.99 carats) and large, or solitaire (larger

Which exceeds 6 carats, is destined to be sold only at a closed auction. Of course, other characteristics are still important here, but the weight alone is enough to make the cost of such a giant sky-high. Therefore, those who wish to purchase prefer to do it behind the scenes.

Small stones are graded by diameter, not by weight. But for large and medium stones, it is a mistake to believe that the larger, the heavier the diamond. The characteristic of the stone sometimes allows you to make a unique cut, which, with a large diameter, will give a relatively small weight.

Defectiveness of diamonds

Of course, you always want to buy all the best. But in life we ​​are guided by the rule: to choose the optimal ratio "price-quality". And diamonds are no exception. There are very few absolutely pure stones in nature. And, accordingly, they are very expensive.

Most often in nature, diamonds are found interspersed with carbon and foreign crystals. Very rarely come across samples with internal cracks. On the one hand, it is impossible to see all this with the naked eye. But on the other hand, when you buy a diamond that does not shimmer in the light (or is very dull), and even more so when you invest in stones, you want the characteristics of diamonds to be worthy.

There are several standards by which the quality of diamonds is judged. For example, the Scale, according to which all stones are divided into categories depending on the quantity and quality of inclusions, according to the Russian standard, consists of 12 groups, where the 1st group is the cleanest diamonds, and the 12th is “dirty”. In fact, only starting from the 9th group can inclusions be examined without a microscope. And before that, at least a tenfold increase under a microscope is necessary to detect stone defects.

This is probably why the American Clarity of a diamond, which has a scale of 9 groups, does not treat the purest stones and stones with subtle inclusions differently. They belong to the same category.

Diamond color

Of course, the most popular are white diamonds. But just like absolutely pure stones, there are few of them. Most often in jewelry, we are offered yellowish diamonds. But it is impossible to determine this by eye - human vision does not perceive such a subtle difference.

Diamonds are found in nature different colors- from white to black. Until recently, the concept was not used at all, and such stones were not used in jewelry. They were literally considered garbage. But fancy yellow and blue diamonds are a completely different matter. Being interestingly framed, they can become a real decoration of the collection.

In general, the concept of the color of a diamond is very complex. The Russian standard uses such terms as “hardly perceptible”, “nasvet”, “barely noticeable”, etc. That is, the assessment of the color of a stone can be very subjective. Nevertheless, this characteristic of diamonds (a table that will help you understand the ratio of different standards should be in every store) plays important role when determining the price. Up to the eighth color group, diamonds are considered white with various shades. Starting from the 8th - the color is defined as yellow. But here there are 3 subgroups.

Cut

Cutting a diamond is a very difficult task. The quality of a cut can be described by three characteristics: symmetry, proportionality and polishing. It is by these parameters, according to the American standard, that any diamond can be evaluated. In the Russian cut quality system, a stone can be assigned to one of the groups from A to G. Diamonds, the cut of which does not fit into the parameters specified for these groups, are not subject to assessment according to specifications.

In addition to the quality of the cut, there is also a form. This is something that can be assessed according to the simplest principle: like it - don't like it. The round shape of the cut of stones is considered classic (it is sometimes called Russian). Oval, marquise, emerald, drop - all these are options for cutting diamonds.

How to choose a diamond

The price of a diamond is the sum of the ratio of all four quality indicators. Asking a store for a diamond marked 1/1 (the first group of class in color and clarity) means to prove yourself not just an ignoramus, but also a pompous snob. Even demanding that the characteristic of diamonds be 2/2 is also indecent. Most often, diamonds with color parameters of 3-5 and clarity of 3-6 go on sale.

From an investment point of view, when choosing a diamond, it is better to compromise on color than clarity. Because various inclusions change the refractive power of the stone, which means that the diamond does not play in the light. In addition, many defects can cause a diamond to break if dropped. It won't just be embarrassing.

When choosing diamonds, pay attention to how the stone is hidden in the setting. The more the setting or its elements hide the facets of a diamond, the more likely it is that a low-quality stone is used in the product.

Each diamond has a tag. All parameters are indicated on it: shape, number of faces, weight, color, clarity, cut group. It looks like this: 1 Kr57 - 0.43 - 4 / 3A. The first number indicates the number of diamonds in the piece.

Diamonds of different clarity

As already noted, diamonds are on sale different quality. The most common are 3/5, 4/5, 6/6. What are the characteristics of 3/5 diamonds, and how are they fundamentally different from 2/2, for example? About everything in order.

High grade diamonds

In nature, these stones (with a characteristic of 2/2) are as few as absolutely pure. But according to the standards in diamonds of the 2nd clarity group, several light dots are acceptable. A few is no more than two. And it is impossible to see them from the side of the site with the naked eye. If the stone is labeled 2/2 in the store, you need to check its certificate, and you need a certificate from the GIA (American Gemological Institute).

The most popular diamonds are round, with a color and clarity of 4. The gemological characteristics of 4/4 diamonds make these stones a reliable investment. The price for them never falls and gives a stable increase. In addition, it is these defectiveness and color indicators that are beyond doubt.

So what is a 4 clarity diamond? Such a diamond may have 2 minor inclusions in the central part or 2-4 small defects in other parts. Moreover, all this can be considered only with a multiple increase.

By the way, diamonds with defectiveness 5 can already be much cheaper than representatives of the 4th group. This is due to the fact that on small (up to 0.29 carats) stones, defects of the 5th category can already be seen without a microscope. But on large stones, inclusions are still not visible to the naked eye. The characteristics of 4/5 diamonds mean that there is a small “cloud”, a crack or 5-6 tiny dashes in the middle of the stone. If the inclusions are on other surfaces of the stone, then a small crack is allowed.

Medium quality large stone

If the average buyer wants the largest of the diamonds, then you need to pay attention to the 6th grade of clarity. The larger the stone, the more blotches are dispersed in it. Again, they can only be seen at multiple magnifications. But the cost of such diamonds is significantly less than their cleaner "brothers". Characteristics of diamonds 6/6: 8 light dots or a small inclusion of graphite are dispersed over the entire area; up to 5 dark dots are acceptable.

There is an opinion that the size of the stone on the bride's finger determines the degree of the groom's love for her. Since in natural light the defects of the stones of the 6th group are indistinguishable, you need to choose a ring with just such a stone - large and beautiful.

The characteristic of diamonds (the table clearly illustrates this) significantly affects their value. The table shows the price in dollars of medium and large diamonds.

Before you buy a tiny but purest diamond, think about it: maybe you should lower the quality criteria, but increase the size.

Today it is the most popular diamond cut. The round shape with 57 facets is a perfect prism that repeatedly refracts the light entering it, reflects it from each facet, and returns it back, creating an impressive radiance of many highlights.

The round cut is the result of mathematical analysis and calculations, with the help of which the optimal geometric parameters of the diamond were derived. This shape reveals all the properties of a diamond, releasing maximum light and brilliance from each facet.

Most of the diamonds that enter the production of JSC PA Kristall are processed using a special technology so that their proportions, symmetry and polishing correspond to the Triple Excellent rating. Far from every enterprise is capable of creating precious stones of this quality, which is why Triple Excellent round diamonds cut in Smolensk are so highly valued in the world.

Features of the cutting process "KR-57" suggest an impressive, up to 50%, irretrievable loss of the initial mass of the diamond. This makes round diamonds the most expensive, but this cost is fully justified - these gems are popular with both jewelers and lovers of spectacular jewelry due to their special brilliance and play of light. A round cut diamond will look great in

How nice to receive diamonds as a gift. It's even more fun to give them. In order not to miscalculate and know exactly what product you are choosing, you need to learn how to “read” jewelry labels. All these numbers and letters, indicated in a paper tag measuring 30x40 mm, must be able to decipher. This tag is an information card jewelry, so it is securely attached to the product with a harsh thread and sealed with a seal.

Every label must contain the following information:

• Name, logo and address of the manufacturer
• Name jewelry, its article
• Name of precious metal and sample
• Product size and weight in grams
• Qualitative characteristics of the diamond (s), their size
• Gram price and whole product price
• Date of manufacture
• OTK stamp

If everything is clear with the first two points, the rest begin to raise questions, let's go through them in more detail.

Sample of precious metal

A mandatory item on the label is a sample of the metal, or rather its composition. Those. breakdown refers to the percentage of pure metal (gold, silver, palladium, platinum, etc.) in the product. So, the familiar 585 gold (as in the picture) means that this product contains 58.4%. The number 750 means 78% gold, etc. The usual 925 sterling silver contains 92.5% pure silver. This gradation is accepted in our country, in Europe it is considered according to completely different rules, keep this in mind when buying jewelry abroad.

Product size indicated for rings ( for example, a ring that fits 18.5 finger size), for chains, bracelets(their length is indicated, less often the thickness). Product weight or weight- a mandatory item on the tag, the price directly depends on this. In this case, the weight is 2.77 grams. The prices for one gram of the product and the price for the entire product should be indicated below.

Characteristics of diamonds

The most difficult point on any tag is to read what inserts are on the product and decipher all its characteristics.

Let's look at an example in the picture - the ring "Elena the Beautiful".

Opposite the word "insert" we read: 10 Br Kr 57 - 1.03 4/6

Deciphering

• 10 - number of diamonds
• Br. Cr- round diamond
• 57 - a diamond has 57 facets
• 1,03 - weight of diamonds in carats
• 4/6 - quality parameters.

Now let's go over these five characteristics again, this time in more detail.

Number of diamonds or other gems is usually listed at the beginning of other options. However, the manufacturer may indicate the number of diamonds elsewhere, especially if there are several of them and they have different weights and characteristics.

Most often in jewelry stores there are round diamonds, i.e. Br. Cr., but also you can read on the tag

• M-55 (marquis with 55 facets),
• CE-57 (57-sided heart),
• G-56 (pear in 56 faces),
• P-73 (princess in 73 facets),
• OV-57 (oval with 57 faces),
• I-65 (emerald with 65 facets), etc.

Often bona fide manufacturers indicate information about cut quality:

• The letter A denotes the highest quality of cut, B, C, D - the lower quality of cut (in the process of decreasing).
• 57 - in our case, the diamond has 57 facets. A round stone can have both 33 and 17 facets, but still, a 57-facet cut is the most optimal type of cut for refracting light rays and reflecting them through the upper platform. In this case, the stone "plays" with all its might and reveals all its beauty (fantasy and author's cuts may have a different number of facets - 81, 69, 77, etc.)
• 1,03 - the total mass of stones in the product. Often, the abbreviation ct is written on the tag after these numbers. - carat. In the first picture, all products are 0.470 carats.
• 4/6 - what is meant by these qualitative parameters?

The first number in this case indicates the color of the stone.

The color of a diamond can vary from 1 - colorless to 12 - black diamond. Colorless diamonds that do not have any tint are the most highly valued colors and are extremely rare. Blue, pink, or emerald green diamonds are also rare. Remember that black diamonds, although rarer, are just diamonds with many inclusions and imperfections. It is worth noting that black diamonds look very beautiful in many products. The smaller the first number, the better color, And more expensive stone. In our example, the number 4 means that the diamond has a subtle gray, yellow or brown shade. It is often difficult to distinguish the first and third color of the stone in the shop window. And the price difference is significant.

Sometimes the color is referred to as "6-1", "8-4", "9-2", etc. The second number after the hyphen indicates the degree of color intensity within the same color group. Group 6 has subcategories 6-1, group 8 has subcategories 8-1, 8-2, 8-3, 8-4, 8-5, and group 9 has subcategories 9-1, 9-2, 9-3, 9 -4.

The second digit in the quality parameters means the quality of the stone.

The quality of the stone can vary from 1 - no visible defects, up to 9 quality - with visible defects. Defects can be chips (so-called pick diamonds), cracks (so-called blinds), bubbles and carbon inclusions or holes on the surface from laser burning of carbon inclusions. Such defects affect the price and quality of the stone. In small stones, it is impossible to distinguish the first quality from the third without special magnifying devices. In both of our cases, the quality of the stone is not very good - the number 6, i.e. the stones have some defects that only professionals can see.

Let's practice with examples.

• After the word "insert": 3 Br Cr 57 0.1 ct 3/5
• We read three round cut diamonds, 57 facets
• 0.1 ct - the weight of diamonds in carats (recall 1 carat = 0.2 grams);
• 3 /5 -.

Another example.

Insert: 1 Br Pr 65 0.15 3/4A

• 1 Br Pr 65 - 1 princess-cut diamond, 65 facets;
• 0.15 - diamond weight in carats;
• 3/4 A - colors, transparency of the stone / quality of the stone, the level of its defectiveness
• A - cut class (excellent).

Remember that the jewelry tag performs not only an informative function, but also guarantees the buyer the authenticity of the purchased jewelry.

If you still have questions, you can ask our expert

The round cut is today, without exaggeration, the most popular in the world. It is important to understand: it can be of several types and can have a different number of faces (facets): 17, 57, 58, 73, 86 and 102.

Round cut diamonds Kr-57, Kr-17 and Kr-86

Among them, the cut with 57 facets deserves special attention. It was proposed in 1919 by the mathematician Marcel Tolkovsky - he calculated the very perfect shape at which the diamond reflects the maximum amount of light. Almost 100 years have passed since then, and this form of cutting is still considered the best. Note that some experts consider the sharp tip of a diamond on the back to be another 58 facet.

Rice. Round cut diamond, as they also write according to TU Kr57.

17 facets give a stone weighing less than 0.03 carats. It was calculated at the beginning of the 17th century in Paris and has not changed much to this day. As for other types round shape, which have more than 57 facets, they are used to cut large diamonds: the so-called “Hailat” (Highlight) with 73 facets - more than 1 carat, “Royal” with 86 and “Majestic” (or “Magma”) with 102 - for more larger samples. Their use is not a whim of cutters: they can significantly save raw materials and achieve even greater brilliance, but they are only suitable for large stones. They were developed during the 20th century: "Highlight" - in Belgium, and "Royal" and "Majestic" - in America.

Rice. Macrophotographs of round cut diamonds (Kr57). Colors: 3-colorless, 9-4-brown, Fancy-Yellow-fancy yellow (from left to right).

In mass jewelry production, we most often deal with round diamonds with 57 and 17 facets. Among the more than 300 diamonds presented in our showroom, stones of this cut take their place of honor. You can view and choose a round-cut diamond in this section of our website.

Rice. Items with round cut diamonds (Kr57). 1 carat diamond ring, round diamond stud earrings, diamond pendant.

Diamond jewelry must have a label with information about the quality of the stones. Diamond marking is a system of alphanumeric designations that identify a diamond by a number of features: weight, clarity, color, cut quality.

Diamond marking in different countries differs significantly, however, if there are special tables, one or another diamond designation can be easily transferred to another marking system.

An example of domestic marking of diamonds

In accordance with OST 117-3-002-95 "Jewelry from precious metals"an entry on the label of the purchased product (for example) 1BrKr57-0.31-1 / 3A means the following:

An example of foreign marking of diamonds

Carat 0.88, Color - H, Clarity - SI2, Cut - Excellent

Diamond weight 0.88 carats, color H (corresponding to Russian 5), clarity SI2 (corresponding to Russian 7) and cut Excellent (excellent, best)

Characteristics of diamonds

The quality and, accordingly, the cost of diamonds depend on four main characteristics of a diamond: cut quality, diamond color or shades, the presence or absence of natural inclusions and, of course, size.

1. Diamond cutting

The most popular and most expensive round cut diamonds are Kr-57. These diamonds have the most brilliant play of all cuts. With strict proportions, a round diamond is able to reflect almost all the light that falls on it. Round-cut diamonds with 57 facets, depending on the compliance with the technical parameters of symmetry, polishing and geometry, are divided into four groups:

A - ideal cutting parameters
B - good quality parameters
B - satisfactory cut quality
G - the quality of the cut is below a satisfactory level

Small round diamonds with 17 facets and fancy-cut stones have only two rating groups: "A" and "B".

When talking about the quality of the cut, they mean the proportions of diamonds, their symmetry and the quality of polishing. Ideally, diamonds are cut in such a way that the best way reflect and refract the light that passes through them. Therefore, the better the cut, the more the diamond dazzles us with its beauty.

Diamond elements

Diamond cut shapes

Fantasy cut shapes- marquis, princess, heart, pear and others, have a special peculiar appeal and look great in jewelry.

2. Mass of diamonds

The mass of diamonds is measured with an accuracy of 0.01 carats. One carat is equal to 200 milligrams or 1/5 gram. Mass of diamonds measured on special carat scales, and approximately it can be determined by the diameter of the stone: