Beldi soft soap is a pasty scrub soap that is traditionally used in a hammam, but it is used with no less success in a Russian bath, sauna, and even just in the bathroom. Beldi deeply cleanses the skin, removes dead skin cells and at the same time nourishes the skin.

The technology of making beldi (soft soap from scratch) has a number of features and differences from the preparation of ordinary hard soap.

First, in the preparation of soft soap, we use a different kind of alkali - potassium hydroxide - KOH. Soap on potassium hydroxide takes a very long time to reach the trace stage (usually about 3! hours), which often repels many soap makers. However, there is a way to reduce this time by almost 2 times!

Secondly, cold-made potassium hydroxide soap matures faster - in just 2 weeks.

Thirdly, in addition to the traditional beldi, you can use potassium paste to make liquid soap or shower gel, make a body scrub or experiment with shampoo mild soap.

It is traditionally believed that since the soap is soft, it should contain at least 38% water. But, if you try to use 33% or even 30% liquid, you will be pleasantly surprised by the faster entry of soap into the trace. So, the recipe for potassium paste:

For 500g. oils:
Olive oil - 425g. (85%)
Coconut oil - 50g. (10%)
Shea butter (karite) - 25g. (five%)
Overfat - 2% - put into the calculator
KOH - 95.97g. - do not forget to change the alkali in the calculator if you calculate the recipe yourself (sodium is always the default!)
Water 33% - 165g.

2. Pour the alkaline solution into the oils and start mixing with a blender. Mix for 2-3 minutes, then let the blender rest for 10-15 minutes. Do not try to speed up the onset of the trace by constant stirring, potassium soap has such a “trick” - it definitely needs to stand and think. If you stir constantly, then you risk burning the blender.

3. After half an hour, the soap mass is already thicker, but still delaminates. In some places, something similar to a homogeneous mass appears. There are traces of exfoliated soap mass on the blender.

4. After an hour, the soapy mass is already quite thick, but still exfoliates (all photos are clickable, you can look closer).

5. Another 20 minutes and cheers! Soap mass is ready!

6. Now you need to decide how you will cook it next.

If you chose the cold method, then cover the soap mass with a lid and send it to a warm place for two weeks. After two weeks, be sure to measure the PH of your soap, if the strip is green, the soap is ready.

When preparing mild soap in a hot way, cover with a lid and send it to a cold oven. We set the temperature to about 60 degrees and the timer for 2.5-3 hours.

In the end it will turn out like this. The soap mass will become more transparent and fluid.

Now you can make any beldi out of this by adding your favorite medicinal herbs or leaves, as well as essential and base oils.

Overfat for Beldi can reach 10-15%, but it should not be stored for long - no more than 6 months.

Eucalyptus beldi with the addition of ground eucalyptus leaves and eucalyptus essential oil is considered traditional. A very good combination is obtained if you make mint-eucalyptus beldi (the recipe will be in the next post!). For a bath and a hammam - that's it!

Happy soap making!

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Now a new hobby is gaining momentum all over the world (women are especially passionate about this, of course, for obvious reasons) - do-it-yourself cosmetics, handmade cosmetics. You can cook at home not only soups and cereals, you can cook soap, cream, make shampoos and tonics at home. The process of creating your own cosmetics is insanely exciting, and, among other things, very useful, because you get exactly what YOU need, taking into account all the individual characteristics and “Wishlist”. With this article, I open a new section in which I will talk about how to make your own soap, cream, shampoo. Let's go from simple to more complex, we will gain experience and skills, and then everything will work out!

The easiest and fastest thing you can do without special equipment and buying the necessary ingredients is to make baby soap. Or - to make a "digest". What we need. The very first and most important thing is baby soap 🙂 Choose soap without additives. Although this is difficult to do, most baby soap is with cream, some kind of herbs, etc. We also need a liquid with which we will dilute this very soap. The easiest way to use milk is that soap disperses best in it, besides, milk is rich in microelements, softens the skin. The liquid is taken at least 1:1 to the weight of the soap. Those. for 100 grams of soap we take 100 grams of milk. If the original soap is too dry, more liquid may be needed. Of course, you don't have to use milk. You can use just water (although what's the point?), Or a decoction of herbs (already better). You can use a decoction of chamomile, string, oregano, mint - in a word, any herb that has the necessary properties. Is your skin soft and sensitive? Take a string or chamomile. Is your skin oily, inflamed? Take calendula, celandine (just remember that celandine grass is poisonous, you need to brew carefully, in low concentration!). Need to dry out your skin or shrink your pores? Something astringent will do - oak bark, bird cherry.

To soften the skin, you can add care oil to the soap. Olive, sesame, almond, grape seed - any base oil. For 100 grams of original soap, you can add 1-1.5 teaspoons of oil, it’s not worth it anymore - the soap will lose in soapiness and foam. What else can be added to the digest? Yes, a lot of things 🙂 Honey, pollen (previously dissolved in a small amount of liquid, which is poured in advance). Powdered milk, cream. Ground herbs (as a mild scrub), cosmetic clays/muds for better cleansing, ground coffee for a harder scrub (this soap is good for problematic "cellulite" areas). You can add menthol (this soap is good in the heat). You can add ground oatmeal for a gentle scrub and soften the skin. And of course you can add essential oils. You can make different soaps - for washing, for problem areas, for the whole body. In a word, a huge field for creativity 🙂

Let's get back to the process of overcooking baby soap. We rub the soap on a grater. It is only necessary to take into account that if the soap is dry, it will “dust”. If you have a food processor, you can use it. When the soap bar turns into, half the job, it can be considered done 🙂 Pour the crumbs with warm milk (after adding the liquid, the soap starts to smell unpleasantly of alkali - do not pay attention, after the soap dries, this smell will disappear). We mix. Now there are 2 ways - either immediately put in a water bath, or leave for a couple of hours for the crumbs to swell, and then put in a bath. I chose the second way. After 2 hours, the mass thickened so much that it was no longer stirred with a spoon. I had to add more milk. Then I added more sea buckthorn oil (anti-inflammatory, healing, regenerating + gives a beautiful color), and put it in the microwave for a few minutes. In total, it turned out 3 minutes - fractionally, 30 seconds each (I took it out and mixed it). When the mass became more or less homogeneous, I added a few tablespoons of honey, essential oils of grapefruit and lavender, and spread it into molds.

Let me tell you about molds. Almost any container can be used as molds - disposable plastic lunch boxes, soap dishes, yoghurt cups, juice tetra bags, Pringles cans. I really like silicone molds for baking. You can get any soap from them, because. they are soft, and of course any mold needs to be greased with oil. You can use the one you are going to add to the soap, you can just sunflower.

After a day, it usually hardens, it can be removed from the molds and laid on paper towels to dry. But my soap turned out to be too soft, because. I added a lot of milk, and honey - and honey (and sugar too) - dilutes the soapy mass. If that happened, no problem. Put the molds with soap in the freezer for a couple of hours, and after hardening, remove the soap from the molds and lay it out to dry. I dry this soap for a long time, about a month after it becomes solid. Here is the soap that you see in the photos, completely hardened in about 2 weeks. And before that, it was like a thick dough - it stuck to the finger and wrinkled. Don't be scared if the same happens to you. It will certainly freeze - just give it time 🙂

Photo of the soap-re-cooking process 🙂 If something is not clear, ask 🙂

Soft is called soap obtained by saponification of fats with caustic potassium alkali. Various fats can be used: pork, beef fat, cottonseed, hemp, linseed oil, peanut, coconut, palm and other fats.

All of them have a rather liquid consistency and look like a light-dark green, brown or brown, translucent vitreous mass. To give the soap transparency, carbonic potash or soda is added.

Mild clear soap. For the manufacture of denser soap, oils containing stearic acid are used, as semi-cotton, conjut, olive and peanut oils; in addition, one part of soda alkali should be taken for three parts of potassium lye.

For softer soap use: hemp, linseed oil, blubber and only one potassium alkali. For that so that the soap lathers well and had a better look, add 10-20% rosin to 100% oil.

Potassium alkali gives a greater yield of soap: so, 100 hours of hemp or linseed oil give 200-220 hours of potassium and 160-180 hours of sodium soap.

Soap making - technology

Varkamyl is made as follows: take 100 hours of linseed oil, 80 hours of a solution of caustic potassium alkali 38 ° B and 20 hours of a solution of potash 24 ° B. The alkali is divided into 4 parts: the first part is 20 ° B; the second 24° B; third 28° B; fourth 30 ° B. Soap is cooked in the same way as when cooking glue soap (indicated above), i.e. alkali is added gradually, as the previous part is combined with fats; a solution of potash or soda is added simultaneously with the third and fourth parts of caustic alkali.

The finished soap, when tested on glass, after complete cooling, becomes transparent, sticks to the glass, and a white ring forms around the drop of soap.

For greater density, 2-4% potato flour can be added to the semi-hardened soap.

To increase the yield, filling is added to the soap cooled to 70 ° C: talc, soda, potash, potassium and sodium liquid glass, potassium chloride, starch, etc.

Sodui potash, which serves to make the soap transparent and filling, is added in a 25° B solution towards the end of the soap-making operation. Soft soap in summer is more liquid than in winter, and this circumstance is taken into account when welding. In summer, more sodium alkali is added to potassium caustic alkali, in winter - less, or they are boiled only on caustic potash.

Mild soap with a natural core. Its manufacture requires fresh lard and good pure oils; for every 100 hours of oils and fats, you need to take 45-50 hours. a solution of caustic potassium alkali 50 ° B and 10-15 hours of potash. The caustic potash is diluted with water to 25° F, and boiled as directed with a transparent mild soap.

The soap mass is boiled until a transparent glue is obtained.

The finished soap is poured into barrels and left alone for 15-20 days at a low temperature, after which it is completely ready, and a kernel in the form of a grain is released in the soap.

Soft soap with an artificial core is made from cotton, linen, sesame, olive and peanut oils; in the form of an impurity, rosin 15-20% and sometimes olein are always added. The manufacturing method is the same as with transparent soft soap: first, a weaker alkali 16-18 ° B is used and cooking is completed at 26-28 ° B; for a greater density of soap, 15-20% sodium can be added to potassium alkali. To semi-cooled soap to obtain a core, add (1 hour per 100 hours) burnt lime.

Mild Soap Recipes

100 parts of linseed oil, 80 parts of cottonseed oil, 20 parts of rosin, 100 parts of potassium hydroxide solution 32 ° B and 25 parts of potash.

100 hours of bacon, 100 hours of linseed oil, 50 hours of cottonseed oil and 120 hours of caustic potassium solution 26 ° B.

50 hours of bacon, 150 hours of linseed oil and 250 hours of potassium hydroxide solution 25 ° B.

100 hours of peanut oil, 50 hours of linseed oil, 20 hours of bacon, 100 hours of olein, 250 hours of caustic potassium solution 26 ° B.

2 liters of cottonseed oil, 4 liters of linseed oil, 1 kg of rosin, 3.5 liters of potassium hydroxide solution 34° B, 1 liter of sodium hydroxide solution 38° B and 1 kg of potash.

5 liters of linseed oil, 1 kg of rosin, 2.5 liters of caustic potassium solution 50 ° B, 0.5 kg of soda and 0.5 kg of potash.

Mild soap usually has a green color, which is achieved by adding olive oil to soap; green color is also dyed by the addition of chlorophyll; yellow and brown colors are dyed with turmeric root (sold as a spice in stores) or cheap aniline dyes.

Cosmetics and handmade soap Zgurskaya Maria Pavlovna

Beldi - pasty mild soap