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What you need to know about Japanese Akoya pearls. Japanese Akoya pearls How to choose jewelry with Akoya pearls

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A magnificent gift of nature, worthy of royalty, is rightfully one of the main gems of mankind. The mystical, almost magical appeal of pearls has made it a favorite piece of jewelry for rich and poor alike.

Fascinated by pearl luster, people have used mother-of-pearl peas for thousands of years to create jewelry. Pearls are especially worshiped in Japan. Admiration for the perfect creation of nature has generated a huge interest in the process of cultivating an organic mineral.

A brief history of industrial pearl production

Stone cultivation was also practiced in China, but it was on Japanese farms that the first high-quality pearls of man-made origin were obtained. The famous Akoya pearls are now offered to customers by the most fashionable jewelry houses:

  • Mikimoto, Japan;
  • Misaki, Kingdom of Monaco.

Jewelry with Japanese pearls can be purchased in large Russian chains Dame-gem, Maysaku, Pearl-shop and others. Unique shine, perfect shape, various shades: pink, golden, dazzling white, silver - made Japanese cultured pearls extremely popular.


How did the Japanese Kokichi Mikimoto manage to recreate natural perfection with human hands? The creator of the industrial pearl cultivation system required incredible tenacity, patience and perseverance. The main stages of painstaking work:


Having created the whole empire of Mikimoto, the Pearl King, died at the age of 96, was posthumously awarded the highest state title - "National Treasure". A bas-relief of a scientist-inventor adorns the "Ten Great Inventors of Japan" exhibit at the main Patent Office.

The essence of the Japanese cultivation method

The cultivation period for a magnificent Akoya lasts from 4 to 5 years. This includes the time it takes to grow the oyster on the farm, the recovery period after a tiny mother-of-pearl implant is inserted into the oyster's body. Moreover, the introduction of artificial replanting into the body of the mollusk is carried out after anesthesia with a special drug.


Ripening of pearls occurs in the shell of a mollusk already in the sea, within 1.5-2.5 years. The Japanese have invented over 100 types of oyster baskets! Daily monitoring of the condition, conditions of detention, feeding, timely treatment of pearl mussels bears fruit. Only the best examples of natural brethren can compare with pearls from the Land of the Rising Sun.

The realities of the pearl business:

  • 50% of mollusks die or reject the seed material;
  • 5% do not have time to accumulate a sufficient thickness of mother-of-pearl;
  • 17% are of frankly low quality;
  • only 28% of pearls comparable in perfection with the standard are supplied to jewelry houses, with AAA (hanadama) pearls accounting for 1-5%.


The lion's share of elite Japanese pearls is used to make necklaces. An even layer of mother-of-pearl, a round shape, almost the same size (6-8 mm) of a standard Akoya is the best suited for this purpose. A beautiful pearl necklace perfectly complements a casual suit, evening dress, wedding dress.

Akoya sea pearls are offered in assortment and in our Pearl Shop at the most attractive prices, call +7 800 707-98-90 to order and buy jewelry!

Products from sea pearls are presented in the current section of the catalogAkoya grown in Japan. This pearl is recognized by world experts as one of the best - Akoya has the strongest luster among the main types of sea pearls.

JAPANESE PEARL SIZES AND SHAPES

As a rule, AKOYA pearls are 5.5 to 9.5 mm in size, less often you can find specimens of 10 mm. Of course, the larger the pearl, the higher its value will be. In addition, very large pearls are not found very often, so a necklace made of large pearls Akoya is a real treasure. The shape of pearls varies, but spherical pearls are considered ideal.

SHADES AND SHINE

Experts note a wide variety of colors Akoya, pearl this type has rich, bright colors. The catalog contains products from such colors as:

  • White;
  • black;
  • grey;
  • golden;
  • light pink.

Necklaces that include pearls of several shades look original.As for the gloss that this pearl, Japan how the manufacturer rises again: necklaces with Akoya pearls have a mirrored surface that perfectly reflects light.

Akoya pearl jewelry is represented in the collections of almost all major jewelry brands. Now you also have the opportunity to become the owner of a small Japanese miracle - an exclusive necklace "Akoya"!

    Pearls have been known for a long time: they are appreciated for their ease of processing, an exotic way of growing and a variety of shapes and colors. The leaders in the production of pearls are Asian countries (Japan, China, Taiwan) and Australia.

    Pearls come in different shapes: the traditional spherical is the most expensive, but apart from it, triangular, drop and pear-shaped shapes, squares, etc. are distinguished. Such types are valued a little less, with the exception of one irregular shape with influxes - Japanese kasumi.



    What are Kasumi pearls?

    This is one of the most expensive types of freshwater pearls and is grown by hybrid freshwater mussels. Each specimen has an individual shape (the so-called "baroque", different from the round one), and characteristic nacre deposits on the surface. The size of pearls ranges from 10 to 30 mm.


    Where are Kasumi pearls produced?

    This Japanese species is grown near Tokyo - near Lake Kasumi. It is the only place in the world from which original pearls are guaranteed to be sourced. The rest of the species are produced in China and Australia - the composition, color and shape do not differ, but they are much less valuable, because considered to be fake. Directly the Japanese forbid to call the Chinese and Australian pearls "kasumi", and come up with other names - "kasumi like" (English "as kasumi", or "Fire pearls", "Golden leaf", etc.).


    Kasumi pearl colors

    Kasumi has a whole palette of shades:

  • white to nearly transparent;
  • cream;
  • orange (orange);
  • coral with a touch of pink;
  • golden;
  • pistachio (light green);
  • purple (dark or lavender).

Each of the colors makes the pearl unique and affects the value.





How to determine the quality of kasumi pearls?

There are three easy ways:

1. The amount of mother-of-pearl on a pearl - it is always large in Kasumi (a characteristic feature of the Japanese variety). Use a magnifying glass with a scale, or examine the pearl by light. The layer should not show through.

2. Shine. A pearl from a healthy shellfish, grown at the optimum temperature, reflects light brightly and richly.

3. Color. To determine the color and shade for sure, the pearl is placed on a white or light gray background and examined in daylight or the light of an electric lamp. Light and white-gray are considered cheap specimens (they can shine through due to the low content of mother-of-pearl). The most expensive are purple pearls.

How much are kasumi pearls worth?

Mussels form a "stone" for a long time - about 5,000 specimens grow in a year (13 pearls per day). This explains the high cost of Japanese kasumi - for one piece they pay $ 150-200, and Chinese is several times cheaper, although it differs only in the country of origin.

Data-lazy-type = "image" data-src = "https://karatto.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/zhemchug-3.jpg" alt = "(! LANG: Akoya pearls" width="242" height="276">!} The variety of a unique gem is not limited to dividing into a natural type, cultivated and imitation - artificial beads. And the noble mineral pearl is recognized not only by color. Professionals and aficionados alike know and distinguish between the narrower types of pearls, the brands by which a particular variety is known. We will talk about them further.

Gem cultivation history

Today's abundance of pearl jewelry is impressive and striking: showcases lure with exquisite designer accessories, handmade pieces, and uncomplicated jewelry. But unlike ancient curiosities, modern jewelry is made mainly from cultured pearl. It is raised under close human supervision in both marine and freshwater environments. Such varieties and trademarks are known as keshi pearls, akoya pearls, tasaki, etc.

A natural wild gem is formed by chance. And the cultured mineral can be planned in shape, size and color. Once upon a time, the Japanese Kokichi Mikimoto thought about this and developed his own unique way of grafting oysters. Today the technology is widely used, and the gem being mined was called mikimoto pearls. For jewelers who create jewelry with distinctive beads, the discovery was revolutionary. And the collections of the company, which Mikimoto founded, include graceful pearls in white, gold, pink and even orange. And the famous Yohji Yamamoto himself is working on them with pleasure.

Popular Japanese varieties

Akoya

Data-lazy-type = "image" data-src = "https://karatto.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/vidy-zhemchuga-1.jpg" alt = "(! LANG: Akoya pearls" width="180" height="199">!} The earliest marine species cultivated by the Japanese was the akoya pearl. The variety got its name from the name of small oysters. Akoya pearls have classic parameters: round shape, smooth surface, pure luster and a diameter of 2-10 mm. The color of the beads is exquisite: greenish cream, champagne, silver, white with a pink sheen, etc.

Kasumi

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Another famous brand from the Japanese is kasumi pearls. Unlike the marine akoya, it is freshwater. The environment of origin is the waters of Lake Kasumi-ga-ura. The process involves hybrid oysters - the fruit of crossing local mollusks with Chinese ones. It has a teardrop shape with a bumpy surface. Of the main charms - amazing iridescence and iridescence. The colors are quite varied: both traditional colors and shades of lavender and gold. And the size is remarkable - up to 1.5 cm. The popularity of the variety attracted the Chinese, they began to produce an analogue of this gem. But they have not yet succeeded in adopting the experience of growing the next species, the Keishi pearls are so unique.

Keshi

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This famous Japanese pearl is a by-product of both freshwater and sea pearl cultivation. It turns out when the implant is rejected during shellfish grafting. Keishi pearls are very irregular in shape - in the form of uneven grains. It is believed that this is why Keishi pearls have an all-mother-of-pearl composition and excellent luster. Another blister-shaped maritime variety, Mabe, is somewhat similar to it.

Keshi pearls have a variety of colors, but the color and size of the seed bead depends entirely on the oyster. The original shape and pearlescent beauty appeal to the most creative designers. Jewelry with this gem is especially attractive. Tiny pendants, miniature petals, original necklaces make it possible to create exactly Keshi pearls. Keisha pearls of pistachio and lavender color are very popular.

Tasaki

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Another worthy brand of the Land of the Rising Sun is Tasaki. This is the country's jewelry giant, which owns its own pearl growing farm. For the tasaki gem, a concept of 6 criteria has been developed, where, along with the general parameters, the quality of light reflection is highlighted - from the inner part of the beads. Jewelry from the Tasaki jewelry concern is cheaper than the creations of Mikimoto, but both of them can eventually become a heirloom.

Gem Gifts from the South Seas

These are cultivated varieties grown under the valves of the golden-lipped clam Pinctada maxima. An elite gold gem "grows" on special farms in the warm waters of the coast of Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines. The best of these is Australian pearls. The bead diameter ranges from 12 to 20 mm. The most notable admirer captivated by Australian gold pearls is Fashion House Tiffany, who literally stunned fans with their famous honey necklace from the 2015 collection.

Artificial varieties

Majorica

This species is the brainchild of the human mind and labor. Oysters are not involved in its production. There are many brands of jewelry material, but the most famous is the majorica pearl. His homeland is the Mediterranean Spanish island of Mallorca. Local craftsmen have been making wonderful alabaster beads for 120 years. The quality of the majorica pearls is so high that an inexperienced specialist easily confuses it with a natural mineral. One can only suspect something was wrong because of the shape: this artificial gem has it perfectly even.

Misaki

The Japanese have also succeeded in creating artificial varieties. Misaki pearls are known all over the world. The brand's technology is called X-Treme Luster Pearl. This is the work of covering a quartz bead with synthesized mother-of-pearl. A special chic is added at the end - the surface is covered with a secret shimmering layer. This is how the creators achieve their signature zest - a special radiance. The brand's jewelry collections have gained a reputation for being provocative and luxurious in the bijou world.

However, simpler decorations are also capable of provocation. No wonder the most feminine designer Coco Chanel considered a laconic necklace made of black beads as the standard of style. And whether it will be a keshi pearl, a baroque kasumi pearl or a classic of the genre - will be dictated not by a fashionable verdict, but by intuition. Because pearls are the most feminine gem.

All cultured akoya pearls are mistakenly called Japanese, regardless of where it was grown. In the modern industry, it is customary to call Japanese akoya pearls only pearls that were cultivated directly in Japan, since now they are supplied by countries such as China, South Korea, Vietnam and Australia.


Akoya clam

Akoya pearls are cultivated in the bivalve Pinctada, usually Pinctada fucata or Pinctada chemnitzi. Pinctada fucata are found in coastal waters of Japan, while Pinctada chemnitzi are more common in Tonkin Bay and along the coastline of China. Currently, most Chinese and Japanese producers use molluscs obtained by crossing both species.


Akoya pearl cultivation

Over the past hundred years, Japan has been the undisputed champion in the cultivation of akoya pearls. Pearls grown in Japan were considered to be examples of elegance and excellent quality all over the world. It is worth noting that the pearl cultivation technique appeared only one century ago thanks to the successful experiments of the British scientist William Savile-Kent and the Japanese Kokichi Mikimoto, who used the same technology that has survived to this day.

In the period from 1990 to 2007, Japan gradually began to lose its leading position, as Chinese akoya pearls appeared on the market in almost the same volume in which they were produced by the Japanese. The October 2006 International Pearling Journal and JCK * report noted that most of the pearls cultivated in China were exported to Japan, where they were later labeled as Japanese akoya.


2008 and 2009 were the hardest years for the pearl industry in China. The province where the Akoya pearls were grown was hit by several natural disasters one after another, almost destroying all production. In 2008, there was a strong earthquake in Sichuan province, in August 2009 typhoon Morakot came from the Philippines, washing away an entire city in Taiwan and causing huge damage to Zhejiang province. At present, China is only a barely visible player in the akoya pearl market, while Japan is once again the leader.


Main features of akoya pearls

Molluscs for cultivating akoya pearls, regardless of where they were grown - in China, Japan or Australia, have common characteristics. They produce smaller pearls than those grown in Pinctada margaritafera (black-lipped clam) or Pinctada maxima (white-lipped clam). Grown pearls have a diameter of 2 to 11 millimeters, and most often from 6 to 8 millimeters. In the event that the pearls have the same characteristics, the larger the size, the higher their value.

A larger percentage of akoya pearls are used to create classic white pearl strands, with a difference in pearl size of only 0.5 mm. For example, a pearl string can be composed of pearls measuring 6.5-7 millimeters or 7-7.5 millimeters. In the event that the size of the pearls in the strand is declared as 7.5 millimeters (a large value is always indicated), this means that the diameter, in fact, can vary from 7 to 7.5 millimeters.

Akoya pearls are nuclear cultivated, and the process of growing a pearl takes no more than two years. Compared to other types of sea pearls, mother-of-pearl covers the core of akoya with a thinner layer.... In the warm season, the mother-of-pearl grows faster and gives thicker layers, and in the cold months, the metabolic processes in the shell slow down, and new layers of mother-of-pearl become thinner. The thinner the layers, and the greater the number, the stronger the pearl's luster.... A short period of time after the coldest months is considered the best time for harvesting, since it is at this time that pearls have a strong, bright and deep luster.


Factors affecting the value of akoya pearls

6 main factors influence the value of akoya pearl string. When an individual pearl or strand of pearl scores the highest on all six criteria (pearl size is not counted), it is called “ hanadama”, Or“ the highest category ”. However, given that no two pearls are exactly the same, there is some variation in quality even within the hanadama category. The term “hanadama” itself is mainly used by the Japanese.

The size

As a rule, akoya pearls are 2-11 millimeters in size, with the most common being 6-8 millimeters. If the other indicators are identical, then the cost is higher for those whose size is larger.

Form

Most of the akoya pearls are round, but it is not uncommon for oval and baroque pearls in unusual colors to hit the market. As a rule, even ball-shaped pearls have the highest value.

Color

Most often, akoya pearls are white with a slight silvery or pink tint. It must be said that these colors are rarely natural, since all akoya pearls undergo a variety of treatments, including, for example, “maesori” (the primary procedure is to increase the shine), bleaching (giving an even white color to the entire surface of the pearl), and then organic coloring to enhance the pinkish tint.

The natural colors of akoya pearls are white, silver, silver blue, yellow and beige, with secondary tones of pink, silver or green.

Shine

Akoya pearls are primarily prized for their excellent specular luster, which is the main factor in grading and evaluating. A thread with a shining shine, while having some flaws on the surface, is valued higher than a similar one with a lower shine, even if its surface is completely clean. There are five main levels of pearl luster (by analogy with a mirror - the surrounding objects should be visible in it):

  1. Great- high reflectivity, bright gloss.
  2. Very good- bright luster, slightly inferior to the luster of pearls of the highest category.
  3. Good- high reflectivity, but the surrounding objects in the reflection can be difficult to disassemble.
  4. Satisfactory- the reflection is weak, the surrounding objects are blurred.
  5. Bad- there is practically no reflection, the surrounding objects are not guessed.

Surface

Speaking of a surface, we mean its smoothness and the absence of any defects. Since flawless akoya pearls are rarely found, specimens with a flat surface and a minimum of visible inclusions are in the highest category. Defects on the surface of a pearl are not only visible beads and dents, but also subtle color spots, uneven shine in different parts of the surface or violations of the integrity of the mother-of-pearl layer.

Mother of pearl quality

In terms of quality, mother-of-pearl is usually divided into three categories:

  1. Acceptable- the core of the pearl is completely hidden, the surface does not have matte chalky-white areas.
  2. Visible core- when rotating, different sides of the pearl shine noticeably differently, one more, the other less.
  3. Matt- the surface is frankly dull white, similar to chalk.

A collection of necklaces and bracelets made of quality Akoya pearls can be viewed in the Busiki.Ru showroom on the Tsvetnoy Bulvar metro station. Some of Akoya's decorations are presented in the section.


* October issue of JCK Annual Pearl Report, page 88, Japanese and Chinese akoya pearls.
JCK (Jewelers Circular Keystone) since 1869 is a world-renowned authoritative publication that sponsors the largest JCK Wholesale Jewelery Show in Las Vegas and publishes JCK Magazine.