In this article I will show my construction base patterns jersey without darts. This base is suitable for sewing tight-fitting and not very tight-fitting turtlenecks and dresses. She won't fit for sweatshirts and loose products with a lowered sleeve.

In principle, knitwear can be cut using different warp patterns:

The usual one is suitable for knitwear, if you are not embarrassed by tucks. That is, we cut as from ordinary fabric. You can choose a knitted fabric with a pattern on which there will be no noticeable tucks.

Also, a regular base pattern with a chest tuck is suitable for modeling knitwear with draperies.

Pattern-base with a sleeve is suitable for loose-fitting products.

And in this article, as I said, we will analyze the construction of a pattern-base of a knitted product without darts. This construction is very similar to the construction of the pattern-base of a children's shoulder product.

We need measurements and increments (decreases if the value is with a minus sign):

ssh
Cr3
St
Sat
dts
accident
Vg
VPK

Shs
Shg
Shp
vprz
dr
Op
Ozap
Di

Pg - from -2 to +2 cm.
Pshs - Pg / 2
Pshp - Pg / 2
Fri - from -2 to +2 cm
Pb - from -2 to +2 cm
Pspr - from -1 to +1.5 cm
Pop - from -2 to 2 cm

The increase depends on the degree of fit of the product and on the degree of extensibility of the knitted fabric.

Ready-made solution for those who do not want to draw:

Parametric pattern of knitwear (turtlenecks, dresses)

The pattern was developed in the program.
You enter your measurements and the program instantly changes the drawing to your size.

590 rub

Building a drawing grid

1. We start building from point A. Draw a horizontal line to the right and set aside the width of the product along the chest line:
Aa1 = Cr3 + Pg. Pg \u003d 2-(-2) cm. That is, the increase along the chest line (Pg) for products sewn according to this pattern can be from 2 to -2 cm! If the increase is with a minus sign, then this is already a decrease.

2. Also from point A to the right, set aside the width of the back. It is equal to the measure of Shs + increase Pshs:
Aa \u003d Shs + Pshs. The increase in Pshs for such products is 1/2 of the increase in Pg. Pshs \u003d Pg / 2.

3. We set aside the width of the shelf from point a1 to the left along the same horizontal line. It is equal to the measure Shg + increase Pshp:
a1a2 \u003d Shg + Pshp. The increase in Pshp is also equal to 1/2 of the increase in Pg. Pshp \u003d Pg / 2.

4. The width of the armhole segment aa2 was obtained as a result of construction. aa2 \u003d (Cr3 + Pg) - (Ws + Pshs) - (Wg + Pshp).

5. Now from point A down, vertically, we set aside the value of Vprz and the increase in the freedom of the armhole Pspr. If the sleeve is narrow, like a turtleneck, then we take 0 or a negative value of 0 - (-1) cm. If your dress and sleeve are wider than a turtleneck, then we take a positive increase of 0 - 1.5 cm.
AG \u003d Vprz + Pspr.

We draw a horizontal line from point D to the right. This is the chest line. We drop from points a, a2 and a1 perpendiculars to this line, while obtaining points G3, G4 and G1.

6. From point A down, lay off the segment AT.
AT = Dts.

7. From the point T down, we set aside the distance TB:
TB \u003d 0.5Dts - 2 cm.

8. And from point A down we set aside the length of the product. AN = Di.

Now from points T, B, and H we draw horizontal lines to the right:

• waistline from point T
• hip line from point B
• bottom line from point H

And at the intersection of these lines with the vertical, lowered from point a1 down, we put points, T1, B1, H1.

Back construction

9. From point A to the right, set aside the width of the neck of the back - AA2.
AA2 = Ssh / 3.

10. From point A2 down we lower the perpendicular equal to the height of the sprout.
A2A1 = AA2 / 3

Connect point A1 to the middle of the back and put point A0. Let's draw the neck line of the back by connecting the points A0A2 with a smooth line.

11. The position of the end shoulder point P1 is found by crossing two arcs: the first arc from point A2 with a radius equal to the width of the shoulder Shp and the second arc with a radius equal to the measure of the height of the shoulder oblique Vpk.

12. To decorate the armhole line of the back, we find auxiliary points P3, c, G2.

From the point P1 to the line aG3 we restore the perpendicular and the resulting intersection point is denoted by the point P2. We measure the segment G3P2 in the drawing. Now from the point G3 upwards we set aside a value equal to 1/3 of the distance G3P2 plus 2 cm.
G3P3 \u003d G3P2 / 3 + 2 cm.

14. Point G2 is the middle of the armhole, so G3G2 \u003d G3G4 / 2.

We connect the points P1, P3, c, G2 with a smooth line - this is the armhole of the back.
We lower the perpendicular from point G2 down to the bottom line and get the points:
T2 - on the waist line,
B2 - on the line of the hips,
H2 - on the bottom line.

Building a shelf

15. Find the position of the top of the neck of the shelf. From the point T1 upwards, we set aside the segment T1A3 equal to the measure Dtp.

16. The width of the neck of the shelf, equal to the width of the neck of the back, is set aside from point A3 to the left. A3A4 = AA2.

17. We set aside the depth of the neck of the shelf from point A3 down and set point A5.
A3A5 \u003d A3A4 + 1 cm \u003d 6 + 1 \u003d 7 cm. Now we draw the line of the neck of the shelf with a smooth line connecting points A4 and A5.

18. Find the top of the armhole of the shelf. From the point G4 upwards along the line G4a2, we set aside the segment G4P4 \u003d G3P2. The value of G3P2 is measured with a ruler in the drawing.

19. We find the auxiliary point P6 by dividing the segment G4P4 by 3. G4P6 \u003d G4P4 / 3.

20. From point P6, through point P4, draw an arc to the left.
P6P5 \u003d P6P4 along the arc.

21. From point A4 to this arc, we make a notch with a radius equal to the width of the shoulder Shp, while obtaining the intersection point of two arcs P5. P5 is the end shoulder point. We connect points A4 and P5 with a straight line - this is the shoulder section of the shelf.

Point P5 can be found in another way. Also using the intersection of two arcs. One arc is also from A4, with a radius equal to the width of the Shp shoulder. And the second arc from the point T1, with a radius equal to the measurement Vpk2 (the measurement must be measured not from the back, but from the point of intersection of the waist line with the horizontal of the middle of the front to the end point of the shoulder seam. The tape should pass through the protruding points of the chest).

22. From the point G4 we draw the bisector G4c \u003d 0.2 times the width of the armhole.
Г4с = 0.2Г4Г3.
To design a beautiful line of the armhole of the shelf, we connect the points P6 and P5 with a straight line and from the middle of this segment we restore the perpendicular equal to 0.5 - 1 cm. Through the points P5, 1, P6, c, G2 we will draw a smooth armhole line.

23. In order to find out the position of the side sections of the back and front along the hip line, let's substitute the measurements and increments into the formula: ((Cr3 + Pg) - (Sb + Pb)) / 2. If the result is positive, then the B2B3 segment is set aside to the left, and the B2B4 segment is set aside to the right. If your result is negative, then we put the segment B2B3 to the right, and the segment B2B4 to the left. If your result is zero, then points B3 and B4 will coincide with point B2.

24. Find the position of the side cuts along the waist line. To do this, from the point T2 to the left and right, we set aside the distances T2T3 \u003d T2T4 \u003d tuck solution / 2. And we calculate the tuck solution by the formula ((Cr3 + Pg) - (St + Pt)) / 2. That is the same as for a fabric product.
And we get T2T3 \u003d T2T4 \u003d ((Cg3 + Pg) - (St + Pt)) / 4.
There are no waist darts here. Adjacency is provided by reductions.

Connect the points G2, T3, B3 and H3 with smooth lines - this is the line of the side cut (seam) of the back.
Connect the points G2, T4, B4 and H4 with smooth lines - this is the line of the side cut (seam) of the shelf.
Let's decorate the side cuts with smooth, beautiful lines, avoiding sharp corners.
If you do not want to fit your product, then we do not build points T3 and T4. Then the line of the side cut of the back will pass through the points G2, T2, B3, H3, and the line of the side cut of the shelf through the points G2, T2, B4, H4.

25. The line of the bottom of the back passes through the points H and H3, the line of the bottom of the shelf through H2 and H4. If you have a protruding belly or large breasts, then the line of the bottom of the shelf should be extended by 0.5 - 1.5 cm from the point H1 and connected with a smooth line to H2.

Sleeve construction

Before you start building a sleeve drawing, you need to know the height of the eyelet. To do this, we connect the points P1 and P5 in the drawing of the back and shelves with a straight line. We find the middle of this segment and set the point O. From the point O down, drop the perpendicular to the G3G4 line and set the point O1. Distance OO1 is the vertical diameter of the armhole.

The height of the eyelet of the sleeve O1O2 is equal to the vertical diameter OO1 minus the segment OO2. The value of the segment OO2 depends on the size of the hand in the forearm:
- for sizes 44-46 OO2 = 2.5 cm;
- for sizes 48-52 OO2 = 2 cm;
- for sizes 54-58 OO2 = 1.5 cm;
- for size 60 and more OO2 = 1 cm.

1. We begin to build a new drawing. Let's draw two mutually perpendicular lines with an intersection at point O.
Up from point O we set aside the height of the eye. See above for how to find it.
OO2 \u003d O1O2 (in the drawing of the back and shelves).
Draw a horizontal line through point O2.

2. The length of the sleeve according to the measure (Dr) is set aside from the point O2 down, we get the point M. O2M \u003d Dr.
O2M - the middle line of the sleeve.
Draw a horizontal line through point M.

3. We set aside the width of the sleeve from point O to the right and left, we get points P1 and P2.
OP1=OP2=Shruk.
Shruk \u003d (Op + Pop) / 2 + 0.5 cm.
The width of the sleeve (Shruk) at the level of the depth of the armhole is calculated depending on the measurement of the shoulder girth (Op) and the allowance for a free fit to the shoulder girth (Pop).
The increase can also be both positive and negative, depending on the desired degree of fit.

4. Now from the point O to the right we set aside the segment ORp. It is equal to half of the segment OP1 plus 0.5 cm.
ORp = OR1 / 2 + 0.5 cm.
And from the point O to the left we set aside the segment ORl. It is equal to half of the segment OP2 plus 0.5 cm.
ORl \u003d OR2 / 2 + 0.5 cm.
Let's restore the perpendiculars from the points Pl and Pp up to the intersection with the horizontal line drawn earlier through the point O2. We get points O3 and O4.

5. From the point Рl upwards, we postpone the segment РlР3 \u003d G3P3 (from the drawing of the back). From the point Pp we set aside the segment PpP6 \u003d G4P6 upwards (from the drawing of the shelf).
We connect the point P2 with the point P3 and divide the resulting segment in half at the point c1. Perpendicular v1v2 is equal to 0.5 - 1.5 cm.

6. Divide the segment O2O3 in half, put the point O6.
O2O6 \u003d O2O3 / 2.
Connect point P3 with point O6 with a straight line. And from the point O6 we draw the bisector of the angle P3 O6 O2, equal to 1 - 2 cm. O6O61 \u003d 1 - 2 cm.
Let's draw the ulnar (back) side of the okon of the sleeve with a smooth line through the points P2, B2, P3, O61, O2.

7. From the point O2 to the right, set aside the segment O2O5 equal to O2O4 / 2 + 1 cm.
O2O5 \u003d O2O4 / 2 + 1.
We connect point O5 with point P6 with a straight line.
Bisector О5О51 \u003d 1.5 - 2 cm.

8. The bisector Rps1 is equal to the segment G4s from the drawing of the shelf.

Let's draw the front side of the eye of the sleeve with a smooth line through the points P1, c1, P6, O51, O2.

9. To build the bottom of the sleeve, we set aside from the point M to the right and left horizontally segments equal to the width of the sleeve below / 2. As a rule, this value is equal to the measurement of Ozap (wrist girth). We put points M2 and M1.
MM1 = MM2 = Ozap/2.

10. Connect points M2 and M1 with points P2 and P1, respectively.
We divide the segments P1M1 and P2M2 in half and from the middle we restore the perpendiculars ll1 and pp1 \u003d 0.5 - 1.5 cm.
We make smooth concave curves lines R1p1M1 and R2l1M2

If the hand is full, then we leave a straight line or, on the contrary, make it convex.

This completes the build. If you have questions, write in the comments.

© Olga Marizina

A blouse without darts differs in many ways from models with darts. These blouses have a large increase, they are more comfortable and comfortable to wear due to the free cut, elongated shoulder line and deep armhole. However, this blouse is not suitable for all women. For those who have a dimensional feature, the length of the waist in front is larger than the standard one (due to the full chest or the curvature of the figure), it is recommended to choose models with chest darts, which, if necessary, can be made in the form of pleats, gathers, etc.
A product without chest darts can be obtained by unmodeling the chest darts on the drawing of the base of a blouse with a darts. But it is still more convenient and more accurate to build an independent drawing.

To perform the construction, we will use the method of M. Muller and son. A feature of all constructions according to Muller's methods is the use of a proportional relationship between some dimensional features. Muller has several basic dimensional features (Height, Bust, Waist, Hips, Sleeve Length) and quite a few auxiliary ones. Part of the auxiliary features can be measured on the figure and also calculated using formulas, and then compare the results for greater accuracy; and some can only be calculated. The last group of dimensional features according to Muller are special ones that are used when constructing a drawing for a non-standard figure.
For this model, we will write down several formulas that we will need when building patterns:
- Width of the neck at the back (Wsh.z) = 1/2Og: 10 + 2cm.
- Armhole width (Shpr) = 1/8 Og - 1.5 cm.
- Chest width (Wh) = 1/4Og - 4cm.
The remaining signs can be taken from GOST or measured on the figure.

Let's start building.
(1). From point A vertically downwards we set aside the values: the value of the dimensional attribute is the height of the armhole at the back (Vpr.z) with an increase in freedom of fitting 2-3cm - we get point B; the value of the dimensional feature Length of the back to the waist - we get point C; the value of the dimension attribute Hip height - we get point D. From all the points obtained, we draw horizontal lines to the left (Fig. 1).
Note: in the methods of M. Muller and son, the drawing is constructed in such a way that the front parts of the patterns are on the left, and the back ones are on the right.
(2). Set aside 2 cm to the left along the line of the hips from point D, we get point D '(Fig. 1). AD '- line of the middle of the back. On the segment AD', the places of intersection with the horizontals will be denoted by points B' and C'.
(3). From point B’, set aside the value of the size attribute Back Width (Wsp) with an increase in freedom of fitting 1.5-2 cm. Let's designate point E. From this point we will draw a vertical up to the intersection with the horizontal from point A - we will get point A '(Fig. 1).
(4). From point E, set aside the value of the dimensional attribute Armhole width (Spr, see formula) with an increase in freedom of fitting 2.5-3.5cm. We get point G (Fig. 1).
(5). From point E set aside 2/3 of the value of EG. Point F has been obtained, which will determine the position of the side seam (Fig. 1).
(6). From point G to the left, set aside the value of the dimensional attribute Chest width (Wgr, see formula) with an increase in freedom of fitting 2 cm. Let's denote the point H (Fig. 1).
Now you can check the value of the segment HB'. The value should be equal to the girth of the chest with an increase in the freedom of the fit. If you are not satisfied with such an increase, make adjustments to the drawing grid.
Draw a vertical line from point H down to the intersection with the line of the hips. The intersections of this vertical with the horizontals will be denoted by points I and J (Fig. 1).

(7). From point A to the left, set aside the value of the Width of the neck at the back (Wsh.z, see the formula). Let's get the point K (Fig. 2).
(8). Let's draw a perpendicular to the segment AA' - the segment KK'=2cm. Let's draw a smooth line of the neck of the back (Fig. 2).
(9). From point A’ down, set aside 1-1.5 cm to determine the angle of the shoulder. Let's get the point L. Let's draw a straight line K'L, on its continuation from the point L we set aside 3-4 cm - we get the point L' (Fig. 1). In order to get a harmonious armhole line in such a blouse, the shoulder line should not be short. If you need a shorter shoulder, make your adjustments to the finished patterns.
(10). The segment LE is divided in half by the point E'. From it to the left we set aside 1.3-2 cm. Let's get the point E'1 (Fig. 2).
(11). The segment E'E is divided in half by the point E. From it to the left we set aside 1.5-2 cm. We get point E”2 (Fig. 2).

(12). To prevent too much inclination of the front shoulder, a value equal to LE (from the drawing of the back) + 0-1cm should be set vertically upwards from point G. This will lengthen the armhole by a significant amount compared to the drawing of the base of the blouse with a bust tuck. Let's get the point G' (Fig. 3).
(13). From point G', draw an arc to the right with a center at point G (Fig. 3).
(14). From point I, vertically upwards, set aside the value of the size feature Waist length in front II (Dt.p II). Let's get the point M (Fig. 3).
Note: for figures with very small breasts or for stooped figures, you can subtract up to 1 cm from the Waist length in front II value.
(15). Draw a segment MM horizontally from point M to the right, equal to Shsh.z (see formula) + 0.5 cm (Fig. 3).
(16). From point M down, set aside the value of Shsh.z plus 1.5-2 cm. Let's get the point M' (Fig. 3).
(17). Let's draw an auxiliary line MG. Let us plot along this line from the point M the value of Shsh.z plus 0.7-1 cm (Fig. 3). Let's draw a beautiful line of the front neckline.
(18). To build the front shoulder line from point M ”set aside to the right (preferably using a circle) a value equal to the length of the back shoulder (from the drawing) minus 0.5 cm until it intersects with the arc from point G’. We get point G”. We draw the shoulder line M”G” (Fig. 3).

(19). From point G to lay up? from G.E. We get point G1. Draw an armhole through the points G”, G1, F, E”2, E’1, L’ (Fig. 4).

When constructing the base of a blouse without a chest tuck according to the Muller method, the position of the shoulder line moves 1 cm towards the front, i.e. a strip 1 cm wide is cut from the shelf pattern from the shoulder, and the shoulder section of the back rises 1 cm up. But according to our model, the shoulder line moves differently, and we will consider this a little later.
(20). Before constructing side sections, you should check the size of the product along the hip line. To do this, you need to compare the value of the segment JD 'and half the value of the dimension feature Hip circumference plus an increase of 2-3 cm. If the segment in the drawing is less than the required value, then the deficiency must be compensated in equal shares from the lateral line FF2 along the hip line (deposit from point F2 on both sides by half the difference between the compared values). If, on the contrary, there is an excess, it is necessary to take the excess from the side cut in a similar way.
(21). We will fit the blouse a little - from the F1 point at the waist in both directions we set aside 0-1 cm. Let's make the side cuts (Fig. 5).

(22). Let's draw a bottom line. On the back, from point D', draw a perpendicular to the line of the middle of the back until it intersects with the side cut at point D. Extend the line of the middle of the front down by 0.5-1 cm. We get the point J'. Smoothly connect it to point D” (Fig. 6).

(23). Let's find the position of the shoulder cut according to the model. On the neck of the shelf from the point M "set aside 3 cm, from the point G" along the armhole we set aside 2 cm. We obtain, respectively, the points N and O. Connect them, we get the shoulder cut of the NO shelf (Fig. 7). To build the shoulder section of the back, we will connect the shelf and the back along the shoulder seam (attach to the back part of the shelf, transferred to tracing paper). On the attached part of the shelf we find the segment NO and in its place we draw the segment N'O' completely identical (Fig. 7).
Note: when building, we laid the value of the shoulder cut of the backrest by 0.5 cm more to fit the backrest on the shelf. In this model, there is a significant shift of the shoulder seam towards the front, so there is no need for a fit. Attaching part of the shelf to the back, first we combine the points on the neck, cut off the excess shoulder, making out a beautiful armhole line (Fig. 7).

(24). To build the line of the bottom of the blouse, extend the line of the middle of the front and back by 4 cm and connect smoothly with the side cut (Fig. 8).
(25). Let's build a board with a bar. From the line of the middle of the front, set aside half the width of the bar to the left - 1.2 cm. We get the edge of the board. Let's draw a bar 2.4 cm wide (Fig. 8). We outline the location of the loops / buttons at a distance of 8 cm from each other (Fig. 8). Last loop should be at a distance from the bottom of the product not less than the distance between the loops.

(26). Let's start building the sleeve. First, in the drawing, measure the height of the armhole. To do this, we connect the end of the unchanged base shoulder section of the front (point G”) to point G. From the end of the base shoulder section of the back (point L’), we draw a perpendicular to the chest line, we get point L” (Fig. 9).

(27). Let us measure the segments GG” and L’L”. Let's add the obtained values, and divide the sum by three. The result of these calculations will be the sleeve height of the low sleeve for the loose fit blouse.
Note: For blouses with a more fitted silhouette, a sleeve with a normal (medium) hem is designed. The height of the eyelet in this case will be equal to the sum of the heights of the armhole in front and back, divided by two.
(28). From the point P, as the highest point of the sleeve okon, vertically we put off the value calculated above. The okon height minus 1-1.5cm, put the point Q. From the point P, we also mark the point R1 vertically down, the PR1 value is equal to the dimensional attribute Sleeve length minus the cuff width (for this model 6cm) (Fig. 10).
(29). Set aside 0.8-1 cm from point R1 upwards in order to then draw a smooth line at the bottom of the sleeve (Fig. 10). Let's put the point R. Draw horizontal lines through the points Q and R.

(30). Half of the total value of the length of the armhole on the front and back, measured in the drawing, set aside to the left from point P until it intersects with the horizontal through point Q (this is convenient to do with a compass by drawing a circle). We get the point Q' (Fig. 11). Similarly, we find the point Q” to the right of the vertical.
(31). On the lower horizontal to the left of the R point, set aside half the value of the Sleeve Width below with an increase of 3 cm per fold. We get the point R'. We set aside the same value to the right and find the point R” (Fig. 11). Connect the points R' to Q' and R" to Q".

(32). The resulting segments PQ 'and PQ "divide each into 4 parts (Fig. 12). On the segment PQ' we get points P1, P2, P3. On the segment PQ” we get points P’3, P’2, P’1.
(33). We divide the bottom line R’R ” into 6 parts (Fig. 12). We get points R’2, R’1, R”1, R”2.

(34). From the obtained points on the segments Q’P and PQ” perpendicular to the segments themselves according to Fig. 13 set aside the following values: from P1 - 0.8 cm, from P2 - 0.5-0.8 cm, from P3 - 1.5 cm; from P'3 - 2cm, from P'2 - 1.5cm, from P "1 - 0cm (at the point P"1 the rollback crosses the segment PQ”). Let's draw a smooth line of the sleeve's eye.
(35). From the points on the segment R'R "perpendicular to the bottom line, we set aside the values ​​\u200b\u200baccording to Fig. 13: from point R'2 up - 0.5cm, from point R'1 - 0-0.5cm, from point R"1 down - 1.2-1.5cm, from point R"2 down - 0.6-0.8cm.
(36). At point R”1 there will be a cut for the fastener of the sleeve. To build it from the point R”1 upwards, set aside 7.5 cm (Fig. 13).
(37). We denote the fold on the line of the bottom of the sleeve in the center, 3 cm wide (Fig. 13).

(38). Let's build a cuff. Its length will be equal to the Width of the sleeve at the bottom minus an increase in the fold of 3 cm. Cuff width 6cm. Let's outline the loops for the fastener (Fig. 14).

(39). Let's build a collar on the stand. Draw a segment SS1 with a length equal to the length of the neck of the back plus the length of the neck of the shelf (together with the width of the side 1.2cm) minus 0.3cm. From the end of the segment of the point S1 upwards, draw a perpendicular S1S '3 cm long (Fig. 15). Let's smoothly connect the point S with the point S'.
(40). From the point S we draw up a vertical line SS”1 with a length equal to the width of the collar stand 2cm.
(41). From the point S 'to the left along the lower cut of the rack, set aside the value of the side 1.2 cm. Let's draw a perpendicular to the lower cut with a length of 2 cm. Let's get point S".
(42). Connect the points S”1 and S” with a line parallel to the line SS’ (Fig. 15).
(43). Point S” is the starting point for sewing in the collar. From this point we draw a horizontal line S”S”2, where point S”2 lies on a straight line passing through the middle of the collar stand SS”1 (Fig. 15).
(44). From the point S "2 upwards, set aside a segment equal to S" 1S "2. We get point S”3. Connect the points S” and S”3 with a smooth line (Fig. 15). This line should resemble the mirror image of line S”S”1.
(45). From point S "3 vertically upwards, set aside the width of the collar 6cm. From the point S ”we draw a segment S”T 8 cm long so that when making the upper cut of the collar, we get a beautiful corner (Fig. 15).

It is preferable to sew such a blouse from light flowing materials so that it does not look like a bag. The details of the upper cuff, placket, upper collar and upper collar stand must be glued with an adhesive pad (non-woven or dublerin). Let me remind you once again that if, in your opinion, the blouse turned out to be too loose (in our model, the total increase along the chest line is 6-7.5 cm), you can reduce the increase at your discretion.

The two additional basic patterns presented here are the basis for modeling simple-shaped products and are preferred when modeling spacious products.

Basic bodice pattern without top darts used for modeling blouses, stretch and knitted tops, vests, small jackets or beach sets and home wear. From the bodice of this design, by lengthening it, you can easily get a dress simple cut which is made of knitwear or lightweight fabric.

Basic bodice pattern without free-form darts- proportionally enlarged to model free-form products such as pajamas, bathrobes, peignoirs, capes and wide blouses.

There are two sleeve options for this design. The first version of the sleeve is shown in Fig. 5 - the height of its eyelet is reduced, due to which the sleeve automatically becomes wider. Reduced eye height and wide sleeves are the most characteristic features of loose clothing. The second version of the sleeve is shown in Fig. 6 - it also has a reduced eyelet height and a greater width along the axillary line, which makes it look like a shirt-type sleeve.

Basic bodice pattern without top darts

The task is to make the base pattern of the bodice flatter in the upper part so that it is suitable for modeling spacious products. To do this, the solutions of the shoulder tuck on the back and the upper tuck on the front of the bodice are transferred to the armhole of the bodice. Due to this elongation, the armhole is transformed for the design of products with sleeves with a reduced collar height. Waist tucks are saved on the drawing to model products adjacent to the figure in this area.

Note. The side line of these basic patterns should run in the middle of the underarm line to get the same back and front width. If you are using a basic bodice pattern built on a typical figure, then no adjustments are required to it, and in a basic bodice pattern built on an individual figure, check the width of the front and back along the axillary line. Divide the difference between them equally: add to the smaller detail, remove from the larger one.

Armhole control signs (Fig. 3)

1. Divide the segment 1-3 in half, point 5 is obtained, from which draw a line for the width of the back. At the intersection with the armhole, point b is obtained - the control point of the back armhole.

2. Divide the segment 2-4 in half plus 2 cm. Set aside the resulting value from point 2 down, point 6 is obtained, from which draw a line for the width of the chest. At the intersection with the armhole, point a is obtained - the control point of the armhole in front.

Basic bodice pattern without free-form darts

To facilitate the modeling of bulky products (for example, peignoirs, pajamas, dressing gowns), the patterns of the basic pattern of the bodice without upper darts should be enlarged so that they resemble the patterns of a wide blouse. Based on this pattern, you can create model designs for wide products with sleeves that create enough space for movement, and products that can be worn over other clothes if desired.

1. Position the patterns of the basic pattern of the bodice without upper darts so that the axillary lines of the back and front lie on the same horizontal line. Leave a gap of 5 cm between the upper points of the side cuts of the patterns so that the middle cuts of the back and front of the patterns are parallel to each other, and circle the patterns.

This 5 cm gap increased to 20 cm more freedom of fit to the bust, which is most suitable for loose models. Draw a vertical line down from the armpit, in the middle between the details - a new side line has been obtained.

2. On the midline of the back, lengthen the pieces 22 cm (or as required) from the waist. From the resulting point, draw a horizontal line to the midline of the front.

3. If the length of the shoulder is left unchanged, the product will look as if the proportions are not respected.

The lengthening of the shoulder line is performed as follows. Through the points of the outer ends of the shoulder sections, draw lines perpendicular to the middle lines of the back and front. Set aside from these points outwards 2.5 cm along these perpendiculars and draw new shoulder lines. This method allows you to increase the length of the shoulder lines with their correct slope, which is necessary for free models.

4. Armhole deepening. Since the width of the details along the axillary line has increased by 5 cm (due to the gap between the details), it is necessary to increase the width of the details in the armhole area to increase the volumetric shape of the entire structure. Lower the top point of the lateral line by 1.5 cm and mark it as BL.

5. Changing the shape of the armhole. Set aside horizontally from the middle of the original back armhole and front outward 2.5 cm. Draw a new armhole from the points of the outer ends of the shoulder lines to the top points of the side lines through the received points.

The line of the new back armhole will touch the top of the original back side line. The new armhole front line will cross the underarm line at a distance of 2.5 cm from the top of the original side front line.

The control signs of the new armhole remain at the same level when they are transferred from the original armhole.

Sleeve for a basic bodice pattern without free-form darts

Using the same principles as when building a basic sleeve design, a relatively wide sleeve can be designed in accordance with the modified armhole. Of the values ​​of the four dimensional features required to build a sleeve drawing, the values ​​of three change:

1. Armhole length - carefully taken measurements from the basic pattern of the bodice without free-form darts. This value is divided by three to obtain the sleeve height. For this wide basic pattern, the sleeve height should be reduced by 2.5 cm to compensate for the lengthening of the shoulder.

For example: Back armhole length = 24cm

Front armhole length = 25 cm

Total armhole length = 49 cm / 3 = 16 cm - 2.5 cm = 13.5 cm - sleeve height (Values ​​have been rounded for convenience.)

2. Sleeve length remains unchanged.

3. Shoulder girth plus 5 cm increase in freedom of fit (as on the sleeve of the basic dress pattern) plus an additional increase of 5 cm (expansion of the basic bodice pattern without free-form darts along the armpit line) plus twice the amount of armhole deepening (1.5 +1.5 ).

For example: Shoulder girth = 28cm

Fit freedom increase = 5 cm

Additional expansion along the axillary line = 5 cm

Armhole recess = 1.5 cm + 1.5 cm

The final value of the shoulder girth = 41 cm

4. The circumference of the wrist plus 15 cm allowance for freedom of the fit is the most appropriate amount for this wide sleeve.

Sleeve construction sequence

Draw two mutually perpendicular lines from point 0.

0-1 = sleeve height = 1/3 of the length of the back and front armholes, measured on the drawing of the basic pattern of the bodice without free-form darts minus 2.5 cm.

1-2 = arm length (this line corresponds to the center line of the sleeve and the direction of the warp thread). Draw a long horizontal line from point 2.

0-3 and 0-4 \u003d 1/2 the value of the final value of the shoulder girth - axillary line. Connect points 1-3 and 1-4 with straight auxiliary lines.

Building an eye line

Back of sleeve:

3-5 = 1/3 of 3-1.

6 = middle 5-1.

8 = 2 cm vertically up from point 6.

Connect dots 3-7-5-8-1 with a curved line.

Sleeve front:

10 = middle 9-1.

11 = middle 4-9 and 1.5 cm below the auxiliary line.

12 = 2 cm vertically up from point 10.

Connect dots 4-11-9-12-1 with a curved line.

To determine the location of the elbow line, set aside from point 0 along the midline of the sleeve a distance of 7-8 from the drawing of the basic pattern of the bodice (Fig. 3).

An elbow dart is not designed for this wide sleeve, but a slit may be required to complete the closure if the sleeve has a cuff. The incision line is located in the middle between the line of the elbow cut and the middle line of the sleeve, its length is at least 10 cm.

Building a bottom line

2-13 and 2-14 = 1/2 of the total wrist circumference.

Draw the bottom of the sleeve with a smooth curved line, lowering it relative to the horizontal passing through point 2 by 0.5 cm in the tuck area and raising it by 0.5 cm in the middle of section 2-14. Check the equality of the longitudinal lines of the cuts of the sleeve.

Sleeve check marks

To ensure the correct connection of the sleeve with the armhole of the product, the control signs of the armhole (see Fig. 3) are transferred to the sleeve hem.

An additional control sign is placed on the front armhole line 2 cm above point a.

Building a sleeve with a very small eye height

For a basic pattern of a bodice without free-form darts, it is important to build a sleeve design with a very small eye height, more like a sleeve of a men's shirt. This saves time in the process of modeling products with shirt-type sleeves, spent on converting the basic pattern of a regular sleeve into a sleeve of the appropriate shape.

1. Trace the pattern of the first sleeve for the basic pattern of the bodice without free-form darts (Fig. 5), including the underarm line, the elbow line and the midline of the sleeve.

0-1 = greatly reduced sleeve hem, equal to 10 cm (sleeve height is approximately 1/5 of the armhole length).

1-2 = sleeve length.

Measure the values ​​1-3 and 1-4 with a greatly reduced eye height and write the results on the template.

Draw an eyeline from point 1 to the extreme points on the underarm line that define the width of the sleeve, using the values ​​​​of the perpendiculars to lines 1-3 and 1-4 indicated below.

3. Shaping the low sleeves

Divide line 1-3 of the back of the sleeve as follows:

3-5 = 1/3 of the value of 3-1.

6 = middle 5-1.

7 = middle 3-5 and 0.5 cm below the reference line.

8 = 1.5 cm up from point 6 (see note 1).

Connect points 3-7-5-8-1 with a smooth curved line. Divide line 1-4 of the front of the sleeve as follows:

4-9 = 1/2 of 4-1 minus 1.8 cm.

10 = middle 9-1.

11 = mid 4-9 and 1 cm below the guide line.

12 = 1.5 cm up vertically from point 10 (see note 2). Connect points 4-11-9-12-1 with a smooth curved line.

Note 1. Sleeves with a low hem should have a flatter hemline.

Note 2. These changes in the construction of the sleeve automatically reduce the size of the fit along the collar, which is important for the quality connection of such sleeves with the armhole of the product.

As a rule, in the wardrobe of each person there are basic things that are not influenced by fashion. For example, a simple and versatile T-shirt. Currently, the production of T-shirts with unusual, cool print designs is very popular. Such t-shirts with a unique and interesting image can cheer up not only you, but also those around you.

Hello my dear blog readers. Today we will consider a very important area in the creation of clothes - base without darts, thanks to which we will learn how to cut and sew blouses, shirts, bathrobes. The peculiarity of clothes without darts is that there is no tight fit to the body, the absence of darts creates freedom in such models and a certain style of clothing.

And, most importantly, for beginners, sewing is the first step to pattern based, which is built according to the standards taken from itself.

So let's get started....

And read the section on freedom of fit, as we will be actively using them now.

Mesh building:

1. Point A
2. AT down \u003d Dts + 1 \u003d 38 + 1 \u003d 39;
3. AG down \u003d Vprz + Pspr \u003d 20 + 3 \u003d 23;
4. TB down = Dlb = 20;
5. TT * to the right 1.5 cm - this is a BRACKET (a constant value - we set a small fit on the back);
6. G * G1 to the right we set aside the width of the grid \u003d Cr3 + Increase in the chest \u003d 45.4 + 5 \u003d 50.5;
7. G*G4 to the right side seam = G*G1 ÷ 2 = 25.25;
8. Armhole width: 1/4 (Cr3 + Pg) + 1 = 1/4 (45.5 + 5) + 1 = 13.6. From the point G4 we set aside to the right and to the left 6.8 each.

Back construction:

1. Back neck width - AA2 to the right = 1/3 Ssh + Pshgs = 18.2/3 + 0.55 = 6.6;

2. Back neck depth - A2A21 down = 1/3 AA2 + Pvgs = 6.6/3 + 0.21 = 2.4;

3. Auxiliary points needed to build the slope of the shoulder:

1. from A2 to the right 9 cm. Put a point 9.
2. From point 9 down 1.5-3 cm. We take the standard - 2 cm. Depends on the shoulders:

• 1.5 cm - high shoulders;
• 2 - standard;
• 3 - sloping shoulders.

4. A2P1 to the right with a downward slope - shoulder width \u003d Shp + shoulder lengthening (can be from 1 to 6 cm) \u003d 13.3 + 2 \u003d 15.3;

The lengthening of the shoulder is chosen so that the P1 point goes beyond the P1 point by at least 0.5 cm. This is necessary for the vertical line of the armhole.

5. Auxiliary points necessary for the design of the armhole:

1. G2P3 up \u003d G2P / 3 + 2 cm up from the bottom 1/3;
2. Bisector from point B2 = 1/5G2G3 + 0.6 = 14.5 ÷5 + 0.6 = 3.5;

We connect the points P1 with the point P3 with a straight line. We make an armhole under the pattern. Deflection P1P3 inside the drawing by 0.2 cm and under the pattern through the bisector to point G4.

6. We make the lower cut of the backrest perpendicular to the outlet from the point H *

7. We draw up the side cut of the back PARALLEL to the outlet from point G4. G*G4 = H*H21

Building the front:

1. T1T11 down - lowering along the waistline. It is set to wrap around the breast tissue. Depends on breast size:

• 0 - up to 42 sizes and stooped figures
• 0.5 - 1 - standard (44 - 50 sizes)
• 1.1 - 1.6 - over size 50 (50, 52, 54)

We take 1 cm lowering.

2. H1H11 down - lowering along the bottom line = T1T11 = 1 cm;

3. T11A11 up - the position of the highest point of the front neckline = Dtp - 1 cm to transfer the shoulder seam = 44.7 - 1 = 43.7;

4. A1A3 to the left - front neck width = AA2 = 6.6;

5. A11A4 Down = Front Throat Depth = A11A3 + 1 (Constant) = A11A3 + 1 = 7.6. We connect points A3 and A4 with a compass.

6. Auxiliary points needed to build the slope of the shoulder:

1. from point A3 to the left 9 cm (used as a constant value)
2. From point 9 down 2.5-3.5 cm. The choice of value depends on the characteristics of the shoulders:

• 2.5 - high shoulders;
• 3 - standard;
• 3.5 - sloping shoulders.

We take 3 cm - the standard.

Through points A3 and 3 we draw the slope of the shoulder. At the intersection with the vertical, we set the point P2.

7. A3P3 to the left with a downward slope - shoulder width = A2P1 = 15.3 (from the drawing of the back)

8. Auxiliary points necessary for the design of the armhole:

• P4 - perpendicular from point P5 to the front width line;
• P6 \u003d G3P4 ÷ 3. We take the lower 1/3.
• Bisector from point Г3 = 1/5 Г2Г3 = 14.5/5 = 2.9

We connect the points P5 and P6. We make a deflection of 0.5 inside the drawing and draw an armhole line.

9. We make out the bottom line: G4H21 \u003d G4H22

Checking the width at the hip line:

G * G4 \u003d B * B21, but you need to set aside the point B21 on the horizontal line of the hips. We calculate the difference between the hips and chest, and complete the missing value on the hip line.

Difference (P) \u003d (Sat + Pb) - G * G1 - (52 +3) - 54 \u003d 1 - this width is not enough for the hip line in the drawing. It should be evenly distributed along the side seams.

If the value is negative, then this is an excess in the drawing and it must be evenly removed from the hip line.

B21 to the right and B2 to the left - set aside 0.5 cm each, expanding the drawing along the line of the hips.

We equalize the sides of the side seam of the back and front.

Looking at glossy magazines, sometimes there is a feeling of regret that a dress you like very much from a fashion show or from the red carpet, if you can try it on in a boutique, then you can only wear it to a party in your dreams. Unfortunately, this dress will remain an impossible dream unless you arm yourself with a base pattern and model the exact same model.

Stages and rules of modeling

The design process begins with a technical drawing and modification of the top or bottom of the main pattern:

• the selected model is divided into correctly constructed parts according to the most accurately taken measurements;
• physique features are taken into account;
• allowances are made for seams or for a loose fit, depending on the chosen style and material.

Modeling ends with cutting and sewing.

Modeling the bodice by transferring darts

The first step towards modifying the dress is the transfer of the upper chest tuck. There are many ways to transfer, for example, to the cut of the armhole, to the waist or neck, to the middle of the front or to the drapery.

To do this, you need to outline her new position so that she is directed to the highest point of the chest. Further along the lines, the pattern is cut and the old recess is closed, opening a new one.

The following are common options for transferring a chest tuck.

To transfer the tuck in the shoulder seam into two soft folds, draw two lines on the pattern (marked with a dotted line in the example) at a distance of 2 cm. Connect the top of the tuck with the drawn lines. Close the tuck by cutting the pattern along the lines.

Here is an example of a dress with a cutout on the shoulders, where the undercut is transferred to the neck. Then the sleeve is drawn and the skirt is lengthened.

Creating draperies

A little more difficult with the transfer of the tuck to the drapery. It is done like this:

1. On wallpaper or a sheet of paper with a pencil, circle the outline of the expanded pattern of the front bodice.
2. From the tops of the two lower and upper right tucks, draw lines to the left shoulder. Close the darts, leaving only the left chest open.
3. Having parted the darts, circle the new contour of the bodice, smoothly connecting the upper points of the left shoulder.

You can translate both tucks at once:

1. On the expanded front bodice, apply shaped bold lines and drapery direction lines.
2. On the left half of the top of the tucks, move to the top end of the hemline (ie. F) and circle their new position.
3. On the right half, lift the top of the second waist tuck to the top of the chest.
4. First, cut the pattern along the contour, then cut it along the drawn lines.

The shaded places on the pattern are fabric allowances when cutting, which are needed to create draperies.

Collar "swing"

Beautiful drapery on the neckline can be created different ways, but they begin with the closing of the tuck.

• Measure the length of the shoulder seam, then draw the shaped lines. Cut them, leaving 1 cm uncut along the shoulder line.
• Expand the resulting details, draw a horizontal line from the highest point of the shoulder line.
• Make a one-piece lapel.

A few more examples of swing collar modeling.

Modeling a puffy dress

A short dress with a voluminous skirt and an asymmetrical neckline on the bodice will allow you to be a queen at any celebration.

1. On the front of the bodice, transfer the left breast tuck to the side seam, and the right one to the waistline.
2. Move the left tuck at the waist 2 cm to the center.
3. Reduce the length of the shoulder to 7 cm, and make the neckline higher.
4. Make the armholes 2 cm deeper.
5. Draw a petal-shaped cutout and cut the pattern along the modeled lines.
6. On the back, as well as on the front, shorten the shoulder and deepen the armhole.
7. Draw a triangular cutout, setting aside 23 cm along the middle line.

For the skirt, draw a rectangle of the desired length, which will be equal in width to two hips. If the width of the fabric is not enough, cut the skirt out of two pieces.

The petticoat consists of two parts:

• 1st - top, 25 cm long and one and a half waist circumference wide;
• 2nd - bottom, with a width equal to two girths of the hips.

The entire length of the petticoat is made 2 cm shorter than the skirt.

Construction of free dress patterns

The dress free cut- this is the option that is created on hastily, because a beginner in sewing can do it. It does not require a zipper, just an unstitched area is left on the back for sewing on a button.

• Mark the back with a dotted line and move it apart by 12-14 cm. It is from the angle of inclination that the splendor of the folds will depend.
• Round the bottom line, and make the armhole and neckline deeper.
• On the front of the dress, transfer the chest tuck to the waist. The front should be a little more flared, so 4 cm are added to the bottom line of the back and front.
• The side lines of the two parts are straight segments.

If you want a dress that is short in front and long in back, on the back pattern created above, measure the desired length in the middle of the fold and draw rounded lines to the side seams.

Modeling short dress- the sun is similar to a real flower, because it allows you to create volume with many tails.

Having drawn a rectangle, build a pattern for the front and back with a shoulder length of about 5 cm. Details with a fold are cut out.

Dior dress

An unusual fitted dress from the catwalk, decorated with a cord and with two pockets, will appeal to many.

When modeling this dress, you need to take into account some of the nuances:

1. The relief from the neck smoothly goes to the back through the side seam.
2. A zipper is inserted in the side sections.
3. The sleeve is made double-seam, one of them will hide the cord.
4. Lapels of sleeves stitched. If the fabric is very dense, the lapel of the sleeve on the inside can be made of lining fabric.
5. Overhead pockets.
6. If the fabric frays, immediately process the sections, for example, with an overlock.
7. The cord is sewn by hand, with hidden stitches, on both sides.