Shawl collars are distinguished by a wide variety of turn-down shapes, which depend on the fashion direction (Fig. 9.41).

The peculiarity is that the upper collar is always cut with a collar. The lower collar can be stitched or one-piece with a shelf. Therefore, shawl collars are processed in two ways.

First method: talc collar with stitched lower collar

The lower collar of the collar is reinforced with an adhesive pad. The product must have sewn shoulder seams and the middle back seam. The collar with the front side is placed on the front side of the product, aligning the cuts, and sewn in from the side of the collar with a 0.7-1 cm seam. The seam allowance is notched in several places and ironed (Fig. 9.42). If the product does not

If a lining is provided, then the seam allowance on the neckline of the front is notched at the shoulder seams and between the notches it is ironed onto the collar, and below the notches it is ironed (Fig. 9.43).

Both parts of the upper collar with ribs are folded with the right sides inward, aligning the cuts, and stitched with a seam of 0.7-1 cm (Fig. 9.44). The gasket is cut out from the seam and the seam is ironed. Then the upper collar is placed with the front side on the front side of the product, combining all the control notches and aligning the cuts, basting. Machine stitching is done from the side of the product with a seam of 0.7-1 cm. The seam allowance on the curves is cut (Fig. 9.45). To form a transitional edge, the allowance for the width of the seam up to the first loop is ironed onto the upper collar, and below the first loop - onto the front (Fig. 9.46). Then the ggodbord is folded over to the wrong side of the product, the edging is swept out and ironed. The lower collar is slightly bent and the hem and upper collar are basted onto the lower collar and fronts using oblique running stitches (Fig. 9.47).

The inner edge of the upper collar and lining is processed depending on the type of fabric.

In products made from cotton fabrics, this cut is folded on the wrong side by 1 cm and adjusted to the product along the entire length at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the fold (Fig. 9.48).

In products made from silk and woolen fabrics, the edging is cut into the corner almost to the seam line. The seam allowance between the notches is folded inward and sewn to the collar seam using hand-blind stitches. The hems are attached to the shoulder seams (Fig. 9.49), and from the shoulder seams along the entire length they are connected to the product with manual attachments every 5-8 cm.

If provided by the model, a finishing stitch is placed along the edge of the collar.

Second method: shawl collar with a one-piece lower collar

In Fig. Figure 9.50 shows a front with a one-piece lower collar. Sew the shoulder seam of the product to the point of intersection with the seam of the collar (Fig. 9.51). The allowance is notched to the last stitch of the line. The collar pieces are folded right sides inward and the middle seam is sewn down. The seam allowance is ironed. The collar is folded right side together with the front side of the product and ground from one notch to another (Fig. 9.52). The seam allowance is cut in several places. The shoulder seams are pressed open and the collar seam is pressed onto the collar. Further processing corresponds to the previously given description.

If there is a dart on the front part that ends at the collar stitching seam, then it is cut in the center by 5-6 cm. Then the shoulder seams are sewn down and ironed (Fig. 9.53). Sew down the middle seam of the collar and iron it. Next, fold the lower collar with the back right sides together and stitch along the back neckline and darts. Seam allowances are notched (Fig. 9.54). The darts are ironed towards the sides, the seam allowance for attaching the collar is ironed onto the collar. Further processing is similar to the previous one.

The upper part of the shawl collar is always cut out along with the collar. The lower collar can be cut together with the front (one-piece) or as a separate piece.

Let's consider the sequence of making a one-piece shawl collar using the example of a silk vest from:

Pattern:

A crepe vest with a shawl collar, fastened with one hidden button, will make a worthy…

Before you begin processing the shawl collar, you need to sew the shoulder seams. Overcast seam allowances and press.

Step 1

Place the front sides right sides together and sew the back middle seam on the one-piece lower collar with front sides. Overcast the inner edge of the collar.

Step 2

Sew the lower collar into the neck of the back, laying lines on both sides of the line of the middle of the back, then sew the darts with the same lines. Notch the seam allowances in the rounded areas in several places and iron them out. Iron the dart depths forward.

Step 3

Fold the edges right sides together, and on the one-piece top collar with the edges, sew the back middle seam. Press seam allowances.

Step 4

Pin the facing of the back neckline to the hems with a one-piece upper collar, right side to right side, and stitch to the inner edge of the upper collar between the corners. Cut the hem in the corners close to the last stitches of the seam (arrow).

Step 5

Sew the hem and back neck facing along the shoulder sections (in this pattern this is reference mark 7). Cut seam allowances close to the lines, score and press. Overcast the inner edges of the hems and the back neckline.

Step 6

Pin the hem and facing of the back neckline with the top collar to the front and bottom collar, right side to front side, while the lapels of the hem and the top collar should be slightly larger than the lapels of the front and bottom collar. Sew along the bottom edges of the shelves, edges and collar. Cut seam allowances close to the stitching, not reaching 2 cm from the ends of the edges. In the rounded areas, notch the seam allowances.

Step 7

Turn the collar inside out, turn the hem and back neck facing to the wrong side. Sweep and iron the edges. Fold the collar and flaps along the fold lines, and baste the upper collar with oblique basting stitches.

Step 8

Precisely pin the collar stitching seams and sew them with a “back needle” stitch by hand.

Source and illustrations: Burda 6/2018

The shawl collar in products of various types and styles: in blouses, jackets, jackets, blazers and coats, has never gone out of fashion. It is still relevant today. Firstly, because a strong trend towards feminine and elegant style has appeared in catwalk collections, and secondly, it is easy to cut and model.

The photo collages of this master class show how to construct a shawl collar pattern in 3 ways. Then it will be easy for you to make a collar pattern of any shape.

Shawl collar pattern - 1st method.

We start building a shawl collar pattern in the same way as: draw a fastener line, mark the length, bend the tracing paper, draw the shape. The fold line can be drawn from the extreme point of the neck - photo 15.

Photo 16 shows the two most popular forms of a shawl collar - narrowed to the fastening point and with an extension. Models with such a collar are a stylish white jacket in the last collage, with a contrasting black collar, and a cobalt-colored blazer in the first.

Then we unfold the tracing paper and build the upper part of the collar - photo 17.

The angle of inclination in relation to the shoulder seam is from 45 degrees to 55 - 60. The smaller the angle of inclination of the line to the shoulder seam, the flatter the collar will lie on the shoulders. The larger it is, the more tightly it will fit to the neck, forming a stand.

The optimal angle of inclination can only be determined by fitting. It depends on the characteristics of the figure, the inclination of the shoulders, and the density of the fabric.

Therefore, if I am sewing a model with a shawl collar for the first time for a client, I draw a tilt line at an angle of approximately 50 - 55 degrees, and increase the width of the collar at the top by 2 - 2.5 cm.

During the fitting, we quickly adjust everything: we determine the optimal fit to the neck, we look at whether the collar covers the seam of the connection line on the back, and how the lapels behave.

If they lie looser than necessary, we “tighten” them by changing the center line of the collar at the back. If, on the contrary, the collar pulls and causes a feeling of discomfort, we release the fabric using an allowance along the seam line connecting the two halves of the collar. Therefore, it is better to cut out with a margin of not 1 cm per seam, but 2 - 2.5 cm.

The result is the layout of the pattern in photo 18. The solid blue line is the optimal slope, the red and blue dotted lines are for experiments. I cut out the collar along these auxiliary lines plus seam allowances - photo 19. In the photo there is a pattern without seam allowances, but with allowances for the width of the collar in the upper part for experiments.

Photo 20 shows a proven shawl collar pattern with a slight correction of the rounding in the shoulder seam area.

The second way to create a pattern.

There is another way to create a shawl collar pattern - photo 21.

First, a rectangle with the required length and width is drawn. Then the slope of the upper part of the collar is formed. To do this, you need to make 2 - 3 deep cuts on this rectangle, starting from the shoulder line - photo 22. And smoothly change the shape of the upper part.

Modeling a shawl collar.

Photo 23 shows how to model a shawl collar pattern for blouses. This could be a classic narrow “shawl”, an apache collar or an imitation English collar.

But your imagination is not limited by anything. What you draw and cut out using the basic construction method is what you sew.

The third way to cut a shawl collar.

But there is also a third way to cut and sew a shawl collar. It is used when there is not enough fabric or when it is necessary to ensure a perfect fit on the shelves - photo 24.

In this method, firstly, the collar parts are cut out and sewn separately from the front parts. But the direction of the grain thread must be preserved - pay attention to the black arrow at the top of the pattern.

Secondly, the line connecting the parts of the collar and the front is not straight, but slightly concave towards the front. Just like in the English collar pattern, this allows the collar to look more beautiful in the finished product.

After you cut out the fronts of the jacket, be sure to duplicate them with thermal fabric before trying them on - this will help you more accurately determine the line of inclination of the top of the collar to the shoulder seam, as well as the shape of the collar lapels.

In summer jackets and blouses, it is usually enough to reinforce only the hem of the item with adhesive fabric. Sometimes - lapels and the top of the collar. Sewing a shawl collar is easier than an English one, and jackets, blouses and coats look just as fashionable and stylish.

Stand-up collar

Shawl type collar or shawl.
Shawl collars can have a wide variety of turn-down shapes. The main feature of this type of collar is that the upper collar is cut together with the collars. Shawl collars are widely used in women's and men's clothing - these are blouses, dresses, jackets, robes, tuxedos, etc.

To create a pattern for a shawl collar, we need a pattern for the base of the dress. If you don't yet have a pattern for your figure, you can create one using our step-by-step instructions.

From the drawing of the front base, copy the line of the shoulder, neckline and the line of the middle of the front.

Side width.
From the line of the middle front to the right we set aside the width of the side. In products with a single-breasted fastener, for example in a blouse, the width of the side is 1.5-2 cm from the mid-front line. In products with a double-breasted fastener or in bathrobes, the width of the side can be up to 10cm.
In our example, the width of the side is 2cm. We set this value aside from point B4 to the right, put point C and from it down draw a line parallel to the line of the middle front.

Neck.
We widen the neckline at the shoulder seams by 0.75-1cm. From point B3 to the left along the shoulder seam, set aside 1 cm, place point C1. Connecting it with point B4 with a smooth curve, we get a new line for the front neckline.

It is necessary to expand the sprout line (back neck) by the same distance. Along the line of the back shoulder to the right of point A4, set aside 1 cm and place point C2. We draw a new sprout line by connecting points A and C2 with a smooth curve.

Let's go back to the front.

Lapel fold line.
The starting point of the lapel fold line is located along the edge of the side, 1.5-2 cm above the level of the first loop. The location of the first loop is determined in accordance with the style of your product.
We mark in our drawing the point of the beginning of the fold line of the lapel and put point L.

To determine the direction of the fold line of the lapel, on the continuation of the shoulder line from point C1 we set aside a distance equal to the height of the stand minus 0.5 cm. The average stand height is 3 cm.
3 - 0.5 = 2.5 cm
We set this distance from point C1 to the right along the continuation of the shoulder line and place point C3. We connect point L and C3, we get the fold line of the lapel.

Stitching line and collar width.
From point C1 upward, draw a line parallel to the fold line of the lapel. On this line from point C1 upward we plot the length of the sprout, which we measure with a centimeter placed on the edge along the back pattern from point A to C2 (See Fig. 4) and put point C4.

From point C1 with a radius equal to the distance C1C4, we draw an arc on which to the left of point C4 we set aside the height of the stand, in our case - 3 cm and place point C5. We connect points C5 and C1 with a straight line.

Collar width the back may be different, in our example it is 8 cm. From point C5 we set aside 8 cm at a right angle and place point C6. We finalize the stitching line for the collar with a smooth curve C5, C1, B4, C, observing the rule: the stitching line should approach the line of the middle of the collar at a right angle.

All constructions in this section can be done using a compass.

Collar departure line.

The departure line can be of various shapes. In our example, the departure line has a standard classic configuration and runs in a smooth line from point C6 to point C.

The line of the inner edge of the hem.
The width of the hem may vary depending on the style, type of fastener, fabric, etc., but should not be closer than 1.5-2 cm to the edge of the loop.
In our example, the width of the hem is 6cm. Set aside 6cm from the edge of the bead at the level of the first loop and place point C7. We connect points C1 and C7 with a smooth curve. From point C7 downwards, the pick-up line continues parallel to the edge line.

Note.
The lower collar can be either cut-off or one-piece with a shelf of the product.

When making a collar pattern, do not forget about the difference between the upper and lower collar.

I remind you. The pattern of the upper collar along the departure line should be 1-3mm larger than the pattern of the lower collar. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This is done so that when turning the turn-down part away from the rack top collar could freely go around the lower collar without tightening or deformation - that’s it. So that during the basting process the stitching line does not peek out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. for the formation of perekant throughout the entire flight - that's two. And ultimately, to ensure a good fit of the collar, and hence the appearance of the entire product.
After making a collar pattern, it's best to test it on inexpensive fabric to make sure it looks exactly as you expected.

We offer as an example several options for different configurations of the collar departure line, which can be designed on the same basis. Don't limit yourself to instructions, listen to your desires and create for your own pleasure.

There are other ways to design collars. We will consider them in our next articles.
We are also preparing a separate article about the intricacies of cutting and the features of collar processing technology.

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Pattern of a shawl collar or shawl collar, various shapes Today we’ll talk about creating a pattern for shawl collars. This is not the first lesson on sewing collars, we are preparing a course on sewing a collar so that you can understand the construction of a collar more clearly, but for now the next topic is one-piece shawl collars.

Shawl collars in products can be either one-piece with the product or sewn in. Today I have prepared two options for shawl collars for you. To do this, we have already prepared a model of the bodice, for which we will build a shawl collar.

Fashion magazines offer products with shawl collars, some of them are shown in the photo

Shawl collars and their variety

1:31, 1:56, clearly sewn-in collars, here you can even see it from the stripes on the fabric, 1:58,

Shawl collars in models from fashion magazines

In this photo you can see that it is very open and at the same time it is still a shawl collar. We'll talk about these collars in this video. Here is my basic pattern using the 10-measurement cutting system.

2:27 The pattern is cut to the waist, since the construction of the collar is important to us. On the fabric we mark the center of the front and the width of the half-skid. In order for our one-piece collar not to dig into the neck, it is necessary to remove a little from the neck line, a little more from the shoulder line than from the sprout line, 1.5 cm and 0.7 cm at most, see photo 2:47

basic pattern We do the same with the neck line on the shelf 3:07

adjusting the neck pattern

Then, at right angles to the shoulder seam, we set aside 10 -11 cm for the sprout 3:34,

and 7-8 cm at your discretion, set aside the width of the collar, 3:46
Such a collar will not be narrowed or widened, an average comfortable size.3:49

building a one-piece shawl collar

After this, you need to decide on the location of the first button, mark this place on the pattern (in our case, it is at a level just above the chest height point).3:59

After we have decided on the length of the collar (based on the position of the first button), using a smooth line, as in the photo, we connect the upper and lower points of the future collar. This line goes beyond the semi-skid line, see photo 4:50

determine the location of the first button to determine the length of the collar

In order for our collar from the back to have a good fit, we need to additionally transfer that section of the collar, which we have completed to a length of 10-11 cm and a width of 7-8 cm, onto tracing paper, and then make several (three is enough) cuts To slightly move this area apart, open each incision by 3 - 4 mm, see photo

5:07, as they usually teach to make a collar pattern - first make a common collar on tracing paper, then spread it apart, 5:34
We pulled apart, secured and cut out, in the place where the shoulder line along the shelf we make a notch, see photo 6:03,

adjusting the shawl collar pattern

so that we have the opportunity to carefully and competently sew part of the collar into the sprout. This is what our pattern looks like, a front with a one-piece collar and a back. On this basis, I will now show you two types of collars. We basted the bodice, this is what our pattern looks like 8:23
Please note that the one-piece collar, like the one-piece stand-up collar, goes into the shoulder and there is a notch here, 8:46,

sew in the collar

one corner goes into the shoulder, the other into the sprout. After we have swept everything away, we try it on a mannequin, find the center of the front,

fitting on a mannequin

try on me

and this is how everything looks on me, since the size of the mannequin did not fit my pattern.

Pay attention to how the one-piece collar looks, everything is beautiful, but I don’t like that the shawl collar with this cut is too straight. Now I will show you how you can change a one-piece shawl collar so that its line is slightly softened and rounded. To do this, we determine the place of the fold of our lapel, and draw this fold line on the finished product.

fold line to determine the location of the dart 11:47,

now, not reaching the location of the first button and not reaching a few centimeters to the shoulder seam line, 11:51
We fold it in half along the fold line and pin the fabric and make a dart along the entire length, which we marked, and cut it out with a smooth line. 12:33 pm

change in the cut of the one-piece shawl collar for a softer neckline

Under our collar we got this hole, which will help us change the shape of a simple line of a one-piece collar to a slightly modified one, since the collar will now lie more rounded along the neckline.

When you cut out the hem, you will need to preserve the shape of the front and collar, but for us, so that there is no seam now, we baste like a dart, on the contrary, a 0.5 cm basting seam.

Now let's try on our sample so you can see the difference - on the left is our straight shawl collar, and on the right is a slightly rounded line after minor manipulations with the finished simple one-piece shawl collar, 14:43

Two versions of a one-piece shawl collar

Two versions of a one-piece shawl collar will help you diversify your wardrobe. By changing the width of the collar and a larger dart, the shawl collar will have an even more rounded neck shape.

*Collar construction course

You can see other collars on the website:

Collar pattern. One-piece stand-up collar with cutout

An original stand with a corner for warm clothes

The topic of collars is inexhaustible, so we will continue on shawl collars, and I was glad to show you these two options for a one-piece shawl collar, so that you can learn and independently add variety to your wardrobe.

All the best, I was with you, Irina Mikhailovna Paukshte and Alexey Yastrebov!