Hello my dears, today we are studying build a sleeve on a dress, blouse or anything based on the armhole of the product. In the last article we looked at constructing a base pattern without darts, and today we will learn build to this base sleeve.

I won’t go into a long story about the need for this skill, let’s just get started)).

We construct the sleeve using radii. Such a sleeve will have a high hem and will have a standard fit.

What is the landing rate?

This is a small difference in the size of the armhole of the product and the cut sleeve. This difference should ideally be 1.5 -2 cm, and it is distributed in the upper part of the sleeve when stitching the sleeve and armhole, that is, between points P3 and P6 this difference is laid with pins and the armhole fabric lies straight and even under the machine stitching, and the fabric The sleeves are slightly fitted (loose). Maybe I wrote it very abstrusely, but in practice everything is very simple and accessible.

This sleeve is sewn into a closed armhole.

Required measurements:

• Op - shoulder circumference
• Arm length
• Sleeve width at bottom
• Oz - wrist circumference
• Ok - hand girth

Required increases:

1. Pop - increase in shoulder circumference
2. PG - increase in chest:

• Pg +0 - for narrow sleeves
• Pg+ 2 - for medium shapes
• Pg + more than 2 - for short sleeves

Building the base of a set-in sleeve

1. Sleeve width under armhole: Op + pop = 29.7 + 8 =37.7

2. Find the middle of the sleeve and place point C.

3. We measure the length of the armhole of the product separately (separately the front armhole and the back armhole separately). The armhole length of the back should be longer. In my drawing, the back armhole is 25, and the front armhole is 22.

The ideal difference is up to 4 cm. For me it is 3 cm.

What to do if suddenly the back armhole is smaller than the front armhole?

• re-measure the armholes on the drawing (they just might have made a mistake)

• Perform a transfer of the shoulder seam (raise point P1 up by 0.5-1.5 cm, and lower point P5 down by the same amount). What is it for? In order for the shoulder seam on the product to be exactly in the center of the shoulder, this is a classic, if you do not want a deliberately shifted shoulder seam.

4. Find the top of the sleeve rim - point O - using two radii:

• R1 = back armhole length = 25
• R2 = front armhole length = 22

ОО1 — height of the rim = Wok

Now you need to check the Wok using test interval:

Wok = d etc. -(from 3 to 7); Where d pr. is the diameter of the closed opening.

How to measure the diameter of a closed opening in a drawing?

We take a drawing of our base pattern (dart or non-dart), measure the distance between points P1 and P5, connecting them with a straight line. We divide this straight line in half and draw a perpendicular from it down to the chest line in the drawing. We replace this distance - this is our desired diameter of the closed armhole ( d etc.)

In this drawing I have d pr. = 19.5 cm. Therefore, Wok = from 16.5 to 12.5 according to the formula.

If the Wok turns out to be larger than the test interval, then the sleeve is very narrow, and it needs to be expanded by increasing the Pop increase.

5.Making a sleeve cap using auxiliary points and auxiliary perpendiculars.

What does it mean?

Of course, you can draw the okat by hand without any calculations, or you can use these little tips on how to do it for sure:

• From the points Rс (radius on the back side) Rп (radius on the front side) we put 4 cm inside the sleeve on both sides (as in the drawing).
• We connect these points 4 with point O.
• We divide these straight lines into 3 equal parts and draw perpendiculars from these points.
• From the beginning of these perpendiculars we put off the following values ​​(clockwise: 1.5 cm; 2 cm; 2.5 cm. Here is already point O. Then we put off 3 cm; 1.5 cm and 1 cm). We connect the resulting points with one flexible line. You should get a sleeve roll. (this is marked on the drawing)

6. Determine the size of the fit by the sleeve edge.

Fit = Sleeve cap length - Product armhole length (back + front) = 49.6 - 47 = 2.6

Landing rate= from 1.5 to 3.5 cm, depends on the properties and quality of the fabric and on the given model.

How to adjust the planting rate?

You can adjust the planting rate:

• increasing or decreasing the auxiliary perpendicular;
• Lowering or raising the wok by 0.5 or 1 cm, without changing the width of the sleeve under the armhole.

7. Sleeve length: HE down = arm length + sleeve extension (can be up to 6cm).

55.6 + 4.4 = 60 cm.

Using a compass, set aside 60 cm from point O. At the intersection of 60 and the vertical line of the middle of the sleeve, set point H. Draw a horizontal line through point H.

8. Sleeve width. For example 26 cm. (Approx. 22 cm + 4 free = 26)

We set aside the sleeve width evenly from point H to 13 cm.

We design the sides of the sleeve by connecting points 13 with the radius points. We make bends under the pattern of 1 cm.

9. We put control points P3 and P6 on the sleeve hem, since between these points it will be necessary to distribute the fit when sewing.

See another way to build the base of a sleeve:

And watch also the video about how to sew a sleeve into an armhole:

Greetings to all sewing lovers! For many, one of the difficult and incomprehensible moments when creating patterns for a product is creating a pattern for a single-seam straight sleeve. And, in general, sleeves raise a lot of questions. The one you will see now is the most common and basic. It is suitable for a wide variety of products: knee socks, dresses, dressing gowns, tracksuits, tunics, shirts. Therefore, it will definitely be useful to you.

If you have already encountered methods for constructing sleeves, then you probably know that most of them are based on the size of the chest circumference. I don’t want to disappoint you, but in my method of building breast size has no role. And that's why.

Ladies who have non-standard parameters know very well that the clothes offered in stores do not always fit them perfectly. Either the jacket does not fit in the chest, or the sleeve is wide. If you are the happy owner of a large bust, this does not mean at all that you cannot be slim and graceful. This means that your arms should be thin and cannot be “tied” to your breast size in any way.

What should you start from when creating a straight sleeve pattern? These parameters are: arm circumference at the top (OR), sleeve length (SL), armhole lengths of the back and front of the product and their heights. We don't need complex formulas for this. We can measure all the necessary quantities with a centimeter tape.

The pattern of any sleeve is constructed only after the patterns of the back and front have been constructed and refined, when the armhole has been finally approved and adjusted to the figure. The circumference of the arm at the top is measured with a measuring tape at the widest point.

The lengths and heights of the armholes of the back and front are measured according to the pattern, also with a centimeter tape. For this I used a ready-made dress pattern.

Back armhole length (DPS) = 21 cm

Back armhole height (BPS) = 17 cm

Shelf armhole length (DPP) = 20 cm

Shelf armhole height (RH) = 13.5 cm

Before you start constructing a sleeve pattern, you should perform some calculations.

The first step is to decide on the increase and sleeve width (SHR). If the product is not made from knitwear or other elastic fabric, then it is necessary to give at least a minimal increase for freedom of movement. The increase depends on the product itself and the sleeve model. Let's say it will be 3 cm to the OR.

OR + 3 cm = 28 cm + 3 cm = 31 cm

After this, you should find the height of the sleeve edge (HE). It is located as follows.

VO = (VPS + VPP): 2 – 1.5 cm = 13.75 cm

We have all the necessary quantities, and we can start building.

BUILDING A SLEEVE PATTERN

Draw three horizontal lines on paper.

On the second line we mark points A and B, the distance between which is equal to ШР = 31 cm.

From point A to the top line we lay a beam equal to the length of the back armhole. From point B we lay down a ray equal to the length of the armhole of the shelf. We find the middle between the points of intersection of the rays and the top line. This will be the top point of the sleeve. Point C.

If the distance between the intersection points is more than 1 cm, then VO or SR should be slightly reduced.

We connect points A, C and B with straight lines. We divide each segment in half and put points D and E.

From point D we lay off 1.5 cm horizontally to the left and put point F. We divide the segments BE, EC and CD in half and set off from their middle segments equal to the values ​​​​in the figure. We divide the segment DA into 3 parts. At a distance of 1/3 from point A, we lay down a segment equal to 1 cm. Through the resulting points we draw a smooth curve of the sleeve's edge.

COMMENT:

After the sleeve cap is drawn, you need to use a measuring tape to measure its length for the back and front separately. For thin fabrics, an increase in the edge of no more than 1.5 cm on each side will be sufficient. For dense and loose fabrics, it can reach up to 2 cm. If the product is sewn from knitwear or other elastic fabric, then an increase in the sleeve width may not be given and the increase in the circumference should be minimal.

From points A and B we lower vertical lines to the horizontal line of the bottom of the sleeve.

Then from points O, C and F we also lower vertical lines down to the line of the bottom of the sleeve.

From point S we go up 1 cm, and from point N we go down 1.5 cm. Through the new points we draw a smooth curve for the bottom of the sleeve.

This is done so that when bending at the elbow, the sleeve does not pull along the back half. Usually a curved hem is made for sleeves, to the lower edge of which a cuff is sewn. If the bottom of the sleeve is loose or has a soft elastic band, then the bottom can be made even, since otherwise it will be quite problematic to process the bottom.

In this way, a pattern of a single-seam straight sleeve is created, on the basis of which all other sleeve options are built. This did not require any complex calculations, and with experience and practice, building such a sleeve will not be a problem for you.

Find out even more interesting things:

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The single-seam sleeve pattern discussed below is used for various types of clothing - blouses, dresses, jackets, coats.

Most often used for jackets, men's jackets and outerwear.

When starting to create a sleeve pattern, you need the following:

DR – sleeve length = 58 cm

DL – length to elbow = 33 cm

OK – hand circumference = 22 cm

OR – arm circumference = 27 cm

L pr.P. – shelf armhole length = 21 cm

L pr.S. – back armhole length = 20 cm

Free-fitting (SF) increments to the OP measure

Characteristics of sleeves	Amount of increase, cm
	Dress	Jacket	Coat
Tight-fitting	3-4	4-4,5	5-7
Narrow	4-6	5,5-7,5	7-9
Average	6-8	7,5-9,5	9,5-12
Advanced	8-10	9,5-11,5	12-14
Wide	10-12	11,5-13,5	14,5-17

The sleeve cap must correspond to the size and shape of the armhole of the product.

To correctly pair the sleeve cap with the armhole, it is necessary to measure the length of the armhole according to the bodice pattern of the product and calculate its vertical diameter (VD av) - the height of the armhole.

To determine the height of the product's armhole (VD cp), you must:

• or measure from the bodice pattern the height of the back armhole VPrS = 17.5 cm and the height of the front armhole VPrP = 16 cm, as shown in Fig. 1. These two quantities are summed and divided in half.

VD av = (VPrS + VPrP) / 2 = (17.5 cm + 16 cm) / 2 = 16.75 cm

• or if the drawing of the back and shelf is built side by side, then connect the finally adjusted shoulder points of the back and shelf with a straight line. Then divide it in half, and from the division point lower the perpendicular to the real line of the armhole (Fig. 1).

To determine the height of the collar (VO k) of a set-in sleeve, it is necessary to subtract the coefficient K from the armhole height (VD av), which depends on the size:

a) up to size 48 K = 2.5 cm

b) for sizes 48-50 K = 2 cm

c) for sizes 52-54 K = 1.5 cm

d) for sizes 56 and more K = 1 cm

Or the height of the sleeve cap is equal to 1/3 of the length of the back and front armhole: VO k = 1/3 (L pr.S + L pr.P.)

Constructing a single-seam sleeve pattern

1. Draw a vertical line on which to mark the length of the sleeve: OH = DR measurement + shoulder pad height (if any) = 58 cm + 1.5 cm = 59.5 cm.

2. Length to the elbow line: OL = DL measurement + shoulder pad height (if any) = 33 cm + 1.5 cm = 34.5 cm.

3. Height of the sleeve hem (VO k): OG = VD avg - K (coefficient) = 16.75 cm – 2.5 cm = 14.25 cm.

Draw a horizontal line through G - the axillary line.

4. From point G to the right and left, set aside the width of the sleeve: GG 1 = GG 2 = 1/2 (measurement OR + CO) = 1/2 (27 cm + 5 cm) = 16 cm.

For tight-fitting, narrow and medium-width sleeves, it is necessary to build an elbow dart.

5. Construction of the sleeve cap

Connect straight lines O to G 1 and O to G 2. Divide the resulting segments into 4 parts.

From the obtained points, draw perpendiculars to the segments OG 1 and OG 2:

• O 1 - inward 1.3 cm;
• O 2 - outward 0.5 cm;
• O 3 - outward 1.9 cm;
• O 4 - 1 cm inward;
• O 5 - outward 0.6 cm;
• O 6 - outward 1.6 cm;

Form the sleeve cap from point G 1 through the points on the perpendiculars to G 2.

6. Displacement of the middle of the narrow sleeve at the bottom to the left: HH 1 = 1-1.5-2 cm.

7. Width of the front half at the bottom: H 1 H 2 = 1/2 (OK + CO) – 1 = 1/2 (22 cm + 2 cm) – 1 cm = 11 cm.

8. Width of the back half at the bottom: H 1 H 3 = 1/2 (OK + CO) + 1 = 1/2 (22 cm + 2 cm) + 1 cm = 13 cm.

9. Notch along the elbow line of the front cut: L 1 L 2 = 1-1.5 cm.

10. To design the elbow section, connect the straight line G 2 with H 3, then from the point L 3 obtained on the elbow line, form the convexity of the elbow section outward: L 3 L 4 = 1-1.5 cm.

In wide sleeves, the convexity at the elbow may be small (0.5-0.7 cm) or absent altogether.

11. Extend the elbow cut down by the amount of the fit plus 0.5-0.7 cm (adjustment amount):

• for well-shrinking fabric H 3 H 4 = 2-3 cm + 0.5-0.7 cm;

• for poorly ironed fabric H 3 H 4 = 1-1.5 cm + 0.5-0.7 cm.

If a dart 6-8 cm long and 2-2.5 cm deep is built along the elbow line, then the elbow section at the bottom is extended to a dart depth of 2-2.5 cm plus a 0.5 cm fit around the dart, then the segment H 3 H 4 = 2 .5-3 cm.

12. Draw a smooth line for the bottom of the sleeve through points H 2 and H 4 with a right angle at point H 4.

Sleeve fit

The sleeve, sewn into the armhole, should have a good fit and match the circumference of the arm. In order for the result to be satisfactory, the length of the sleeve cap must exceed the length of the armhole of the product by the amount of fit.

The fit of the sleeve is distributed in the upper part of the sleeve, in the lower part of the sleeve the fit is minimal, there is no need to give shape and volume to the sleeve, it is important that the sleeve is located in the armhole without tension. The division of the sleeve cap into upper and lower parts determines the location of the control marks, and the fit of the sleeve is distributed between these marks.

Control marks for armhole and sleeve cap

To ensure correct connection of the sleeve with the armhole of the product, control marks are placed as follows:

• on the front armhole line - at point O 6;
• on the back armhole line - at point O 2.

Measure the length of the lower section of the front armhole to point O 6 and set this value along the piping line of the front part of the sleeve from point G 1. Place a control sign.

Measure the length of the lower section of the back armhole to point O 2 and set this value along the piping line of the front part of the sleeve from point G 2. Place a control sign.

Determining the size of the fit by the sleeve edge

Using a measuring tape or flexible ruler, holding it on the edge, measure the length of the cut of the front and back of the garment.

Set aside from point G 1 along the edge line of the front part of the sleeve the length of the entire front armhole. The resulting point will be slightly to the left of the midline of the sleeve.

Similarly, transfer the length of the back armhole to the back of the hem from point G 2. The resulting point will be to the right of the midline of the sleeve.

The gap between these points is the fit along the sleeve edge. It is divided in half - the point in the middle of this section will be a control sign for connecting the sleeve with the armhole in the area of ​​the shoulder seam.

The resulting fit value is compared with the fit rate calculated from the table for a specific fabric.

Sleeve fit standards for various fabrics

No.	Types of fabrics offered	landing rate
	Woolen, suiting fabrics with synthetic fibers more than 30%; synthetic silks; fine natural silks
	Woolen, suiting fabrics with synthetic fibers from 15-30%; dense silk fabrics; cotton thin fabrics (cambric, voile)
	Pure wool dress fabrics; silk suiting fabrics; cotton and linen
	Wool-blend dress fabrics; fine wool coats and suits; pure wool coat fine fabrics
	Coarse cloth woolen coat drapes; wool blend fine cloth drapes
	Soft pure wool fine cloth drapes

For example: the entire measured armhole of the front and back is equal to 21 cm + 20 cm = 41 cm. Then the size of the sleeve fit for woolen fabric is 41 cm x 0.08 = 4.3 cm.

If the fit along the sleeve edge is greater or less than recommended, then the sleeve needs to be adjusted.

Sleeve adjustment options

Changing sleeve width

Changing the sleeve width along the armpit line always leads to an increase or decrease in fit along the sleeve hem.

An example of increasing the sleeve width by 1.2 cm (Fig. 1)

2. Extend the axillary line 0.6 cm in each direction.

3. Pin the leftmost point of the sleeve pattern edging with a button to the expansion point along the axillary line of the back of the sleeve. Rotate the sleeve pattern until the cut edge of the sleeve pattern touches the cut line of the copied sleeve at the back control marks. Trace the contours of the sleeve pattern, fixing it in this position. Align the rim line.

To draw a longitudinal cut line for a sleeve, rotate the sleeve pattern until the longitudinal cut line of the sleeve pattern touches the bottom line of the copied sleeve. Trace the contours of the sleeve pattern, fixing it in this position, adjust the lines and elbow dart.

4. Repeat the process with the front of the sleeve (the dotted line indicates the lines of the original sleeve shape).

An example of reducing the sleeve width by 1.2 cm (Fig. 2)

1. Copy the sleeve pattern onto a sheet of paper.

2. Set aside 0.6 cm inward on each side of the axillary line.

3. Pin the sleeve pattern to the marked point on the armpit line and follow the directions given in the previous example.

Increasing or decreasing the sleeve fit

Below is shown how you can increase or decrease the size of the sleeve fit without changing its width.

To increase the height of the collar, cut the sleeve along the armpit line and cut the sleeve cap along the line of the middle of the sleeve. Turn the front and back parts of the sleeve cap upwards so that the cut of the sleeve expands by the required amount (Fig. 3).

To reduce the height of the collar, cut the sleeve along the armpit line, and cut the sleeve cap along the line of the middle of the sleeve. Turn the front and back parts of the sleeve cap downwards so that they overlap each other (Fig. 4).

Hello!
In this article we will look at constructing a design drawing for a single-seam sleeve with an elbow dart using the TsOTSHL cutting method.
To draw the sleeve pattern we will need the following measurements:
(you can see how to take measurements correctly).
Additionally, we will need to calculate the height of the armhole of the product. To do this, measure the height of the armhole of the shelf and the height of the back armhole on the product pattern, sum these measurements and divide in half, thus we calculate the height of the armhole of the product Vpr = (VprP + VprS): 2 = (17.5 + 16.3): 2 = 16.9 cm).
Or if the drawing of the back and shelf are built side by side, then first we connect the shoulder points of the back and shelf with a straight line. Divide the resulting segment in half, and from the division point we lower the perpendicular to the horizontal of the armhole, and measure the length of this perpendicular.

Now let's determine the height of the sleeve rim. To do this, subtract a coefficient from the height of the armhole of the product, the value of which depends on the size of the figure:
up to size 48 K=2-4cm
for sizes 48-52 K=1.5-2.5 cm.
So, Vok = Vpr-K = 16.9-2.5 = 14.4 cm.
Let me remind you that I am giving my measurements as an example, but you should use your own data.
Let's prepare a blank sheet of paper, 20-30 cm longer than the sleeve length measurement.

Sleeve length and width. Stepping back 10-15cm from the top edge of the sheet, draw a right angle with the vertex at point A. Down from point A, set aside the sleeve length measurement and place point H (segment AN=Dr=52cm). To the right of point A horizontally, we will set aside half the measurement of the shoulder circumference with an increase for a loose fit and place point A 1 (segment AA 1 = 1/2(Op+CO) = 1/2(25+7) = 16cm).

Note: The increase in loose fit for figures with full arms is 3-4cm, for average fullness of arms - 5-6cm, for thin arms - 6-7cm.

Edge height. From point A downwards, we will set aside the measurement of the height of the sleeve hem, which we calculated a little earlier, and put point D (AG=Vok=14.4 cm). We draw a horizontal line through point G, and from point A1 we lower a perpendicular until it intersects with a line passing through point G; we denote the point of intersection of the lines as G 1.
Elbow line. From point A downwards, we will put down the measurement of the length of the sleeve to the elbow and put point L (AL=Drl=30.5cm). Draw a horizontal line through point A.

Rolled sleeves. Divide the segment AG in half and put point O, from which we put 2-2.5 cm down and get point O 1 (OO 1 = 2.5 cm).

To the left of point O 1, set aside 0.5 cm for a thin arm and 1 cm for a full arm and mark point O 2 (O 1 O 2 = 0.5 cm).

Let's divide the segment GG 1 in half, denote the division point as G 2, from which we put 1 cm to the left and put the point G 3 (G 2 G 3 = 1 cm).

Divide the segment A 1 G 1 in half, put point O 3, and put 2.5 cm up from this point and get point O 4 (O 3 O 4 = 2.5 cm).

Let's divide segment AA 1 in half, denote the division point as P. Up from point P, set aside half the measurement of the height of the sleeve's edge and get point O 5 (PO 5 = 1/2Vok = 14.4:2 = 7.2 cm).

From point O 5 to the left we will set aside 1.5-2 cm (2 cm for full hands) and place point O 6 (O 5 O 6 = 1 cm).

From point O 6 we draw a line through point O 2 until it intersects with a line passing through point G, and denote the point of intersection as G 4, and this straight line will intersect the segment AG at point O 7.

From point O 5 we draw a line through point O 4 until it intersects with a line passing through point G, mark the intersection point as G 5.

Let's measure the segment Г 4 Г and put this value to the right of point Г, we get point Г 6 (ГГ 6 = Г 4 Г).

Now let's measure the segment Г 1 Г 5 and put this value to the left of the point Г 1 and put the point Г 7 (Г 7 Г 1 = Г 1 Г 5).

Let's connect point O 7 with point G 6 and point O 4 with point G 7 with straight lines.

Let's draw a smooth line on the top and bottom of the edging of the folded sleeve.

Front sleeve roll. The notch along the elbow line is 0.5-1 cm, we set this value to the right of point L and mark point L 1 (LL 1 = 1 cm).

Through point H we draw a horizontal line, on which we set aside 1.5-2 cm from point H to the left and get point H 1 (HH 1 = 2 cm).

Let's connect points G, L 1 and H 1 with straight lines.

Broken straight line O 7, G, L 1, N 1 - front roll of the sleeve.

Sleeve width along the hem line. To the right of the point H 1 at a right angle to the straight line L 1 N 1, set aside half the measurement of the wrist circumference with an increase for a loose fit (CO = 2-4 cm) and place the point H 2 (H 1 H 2 = 1/2 (Oz + CO) =(15+4):2=9.5cm).

Back sleeve roll. Let's connect the straight points G 1 and H 2, this straight line will intersect the elbow line at point L 2.

The convexity along the elbow line is 1.5-2 cm, we put this value to the right of point L 2 and get point L 3 (L 2 L 3 = 1.5 cm).

Let's connect points G 1, L 3 and H 2 with straight lines.

Broken straight line O 4, G 1, L 3, N 2 - rear roll of the sleeve.

Sleeve middle seam position. Let's divide the segment L 1 L 3 in half, denote the division point as L 4, put 1 cm to the left of this point and get point L 5 (L 4 L 5 = 1 cm). We divide the segment H 1 H 2 in half, marking the division point H 3. To the left of point H 3, set aside 1 cm and place point H 4 (H 3 H 4 = 1 cm). Let's connect points G 3, L 5 and H 4 with straight lines. Broken line G 3, L 5, H 4 - middle seam of the sleeve.

Front sleeve cut. Let's measure the segment ГГ 3, we will put this value to the left of the point Г at a right angle to the segment ГЛ 2 and put the point Г 8 (Г 8 Г=ГГ 3).

Let's measure the segment L 1 L 5 and put this value to the left of the point L 1 horizontally and get the point L 6 (L 6 L 1 = L 1 L 5).

Let's measure the length of the segment H 1 H 4 and put this value to the left of the point H 1 horizontally and mark the point H 5.

Let's connect points G 8, L 6 and H 5 with straight lines. Broken straight line G 8, L 6, H 5 - front section of the sleeve.

Elbow section of sleeve. Let's measure the segment G 3 G 1, put this value to the right from the point G 1 at a right angle to the straight line G 1 L 3 and mark the point G 9 (G 1 G 9 = G 1 G 3).

Let's measure the segment L 5 L 3 and put this value to the right horizontally from point L 3, we get point L 7 (L 3 L 7 = L 5 L 3).

From point L 3 we mark an arc with a radius equal to the segment L 3 L 7, and from point L 7 we mark an arc with a radius equal to the depth of the elbow dart (2-2.5 cm), at the intersection of these arcs we get point L 8, which we connect to point L 3. Sections L 3 L 7 and L 3 L 8 are the sides of the elbow dart.

Checking drawing constructions.

Let's check the length measurements: segment AG = measurement Vok = 14.4 cm; segment AL=measurement DRL=30.5cm; segment AN=measurement Dr=52cm
Let's check the width of the sleeve: segment G 8 G 9 =Op+CO=25+7=32cm; sleeve head width GG 1 =1/2(Op+CO)=1/2(25+7)=16cm
Let's measure G 8 H 5 and compare it with the sum of the segments G 9 L 7 + L 8 H 6 - taking into account the guy wire, the segment G 8 H 5 should be less than the sum of the segments by 0.5-1 cm.
Let's check by measuring the length of the sleeve cap and compare it with the measured, adjusted bodice armhole. Taking into account the fit of the sleeve cap, its length should be greater than the length of the bodice armhole by the amount of fit.

This completes the construction of the sleeve design, our pattern of a single-seam sleeve with an elbow dart is ready!

Modeling of various styles of set-in sleeves is performed on the basis of the basic sleeve pattern. Today we will create a pattern for the base of a one-seam sleeve for a dress/blouse. The article describes my experience of constructing using the “M. Müller and son."The sleeve pattern for the dress is built after construction , measurements are taken from the armhole of the dress, which will be used when constructing the sleeve pattern so that when sewing the sleeve fits the armhole perfectly.

Materials and tools:

- paper (graph paper and tracing paper), pencil, ruler, square, measuring tape

Measurements:

— sleeve length (Dr., measure on your figure, mine is 55 cm);

- width of the bottom of the sleeve (Shrn, optional, but not less than Ozap + 2 cm, where Ozap is the circumference of the wrist, for me it is 21 cm, with Ozap = 19 cm);

- armhole width (Shpr, the same value that was used when constructing the dress pattern, mine is 10.5 cm);

- the height of the armhole (For example, we measure according to the finished armhole, see the drawing, as you can see, in my case 19.36 + 17.55 = 37 cm);

- armhole length (Dpr, we measure along the finished armhole from point P6 to point P11 (green line in the drawing) with a flexible measuring tape, mine is 44 cm).

Construction of the sleeve base pattern:

Step 1. Construct the base mesh. In the upper left corner we mark point O. Draw a vertical line down. On it, from point O we put OG = Vpr/2 = 37/2 = 18.5 cm. From point G to the right we draw a horizontal line at chest level.

From point O downwards we put OP = 2/10*Spr + (0.5_1.5), the larger the value from the range in brackets, the lower the sleeve cut and the greater the width, which is preferable for full arms, I will take the average - 1 cm, OP = 2/10*10.5 + 1 = 3.1 cm. Draw a horizontal line at shoulder level to the right.

From point P downwards we lay down PN = Dr = 55 cm. Draw a horizontal line.

From point H up we put HH1 = 2_2.5 cm, draw a horizontal line.

From point G downwards we put GL = GN1/2 – 1 = 17.8 cm, draw a horizontal line (elbow line).

From point G upward we lay down GK = Shpr/4 = 2.6 cm. From point K at an angle we draw a straight line, so that before it intersects with the horizontal from point P we get the segment KP1 = Dpr/2 – (0_1), the more the value from the range in brackets, the smaller the increase in the sleeve edge, which should be 8-10% of the Dpr. I will take 0.5 cm and KP1 = 21.5 cm. From point P1 we draw a vertical downwards, at its intersections with the horizontal lines we mark points G1, L1.

PP2 = G1G2 = PP1/2 + 1 = 9.7 cm. Mark point P3, this is the middle of the segment PP2. From point P1 down we put P1P4 = Shpr/4 + 0.5 = 3.1 cm.

We build an auxiliary segment KP3, mark point P5 in its middle. We build segments P5P2, P2P4. On the segment P2P4 to the left we set aside a distance of 0.5 cm, and connect the resulting point to G2.

Along the elbow line from point L to the right, and from point L1 to the left we set aside 1 cm, mark points L2, L3. We connect K and L2, P4 and L3. From point H1 to the right at a distance of 1 cm, mark point H2 and connect it to L2. From point H2 we draw a straight line at an angle so that before it intersects with the horizontal, from point H we get a segment H2H3 = Shrn/2 = 10.5 cm. We connect points L3 and H3.

Step 6. We draw up the sleeve piping line. We divide the segment GG2 in half, draw a perpendicular and mark point C on it at a distance of 0.5 cm. From point C to the right to the segment from point G2 we build an arc, connecting its end to point P4 with a straight line. From point C to the left we build an arc to point K with a bend identical to the bend of the armhole from the pattern of the base of the front of the dress (green color in the drawing), overlap, combine and draw.

From the centers of segments P5P2 and P2P4 we draw perpendiculars of size 1.2 cm and 1 cm, respectively. We build arcs. We leave KP5 as a straight segment.

Step 7. Create a seam line. From point C to the elbow line, draw a straight line parallel to KL2. From point L4 to the bottom line, draw a straight line parallel to L4H4.

The construction of the sleeve is completed; now it is necessary to “unfold” it so that all its parts are in the same plane and do not overlap each other.

Step 8. Expand. Cut along the line SL4H4. We mirror it to the left of the KN2 axis and to the right of the P4L3 axis.

Make sure that the cuff line of the sleeve on the back side at the base (at point C) is flatter, without obvious concavity, like on the front side; if this is not the case, adjust:

We turn the tracing paper over, combine the segment P4P3 on the tracing paper with the segment P4P3 on the graph paper, transfer the right part of the sleeve (closest to the back)

Step 9. Close the gap in area L2. Cut l5l6 and combine point l6 with point L2.

We transfer the left part of the sleeve (closest to the shelf) onto tracing paper, cut it along the elbow line, and glue it to the middle part of the sleeve along the KL2N2 line.

Step 10 The basic sleeve pattern for the dress/blouse is ready. We measure the length of the armhole, mine is 48.4, this is 4.4 cm longer than the length of the dress, the excess will need to be adjusted. Sleeve width (between SS points) 34 cm. These parameters suit me, and I leave the base pattern as is. I transfer it onto thicker paper.

Now you have a basic sleeve pattern for a dress/blouse, and on it you can model sleeves of various styles, or leave them unchanged, add seam allowances and cut out classic long sleeves with a dart, tapered at the bottom.