GBOU NPO PROFESSIONAL LYCEUM No. 4

APPROVED :

at the meeting method. commissions

protocol no.

from "___" ___________2016

Chairman method. commissions

Zhurba E.Yu.

I CONFIRM:

Deputy director of management

Kesaeva Z.S.

« » 2016

METHODOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT

ON EDUCATIONAL PRACTICE

UP. 04 PM.04 "Tailoring of products for individual orders"

SUBJECT : « Processing technology for individual parts

and product units ».

CLASS: « ».

Recommended for use in educational practice lessons within the framework of PKRS in the profession 01/29/05 Cutter, in order to familiarize students with various processing methods patch pocket - briefcase , formation of techniques for students to perform individual nodes; consolidation of knowledge acquired in theoretical training lessons; development of creative abilities and cognitive activity of students.

master of industrial training

Vladikavkaz, 2016

MATERIAL SUPPORT

INFORMATION SOURCES AND LITERATURE:

Trukhanov A.G. "Illustrated manual on the technology of lightweight clothing."

http:// pokroyka. ru/ karmany/ pocket- portfolio

http://godress.com.ua

Workshop on industrial training for the “Tailor” profession.

VISUAL AIDS:

Schemes, drawings, samples of processing according to sequence, samples of finished products, decorated board.

EQUIPMENT:

Work tables, sewing machines 97-A and 1022-M class, special machines 51 class, irons

M-2 and M-5.

TOOLS AND DEVICES:

Scissors No. 10-12, pincushion with tailor's pins, machine needles

№ 100-110, hand needles No. 3, 5, 7, thimble, measuring tape, cutter, tailor's chalk, box.

MATERIALS:

Various types of fabric, cushioning materials, threads: cotton No. 40-50, silk

№ 20, reinforced No. 35.

PLAN

conducting industrial training classes

1. Topic name: « Processing technology for individual parts and components of a product »

2. Name of the lesson: « Methods for processing a patch pocket - briefcase ».

3. Lesson objectives:

Educational: Consolidating the theoretical knowledge acquired during the study of PM.04 “Tailoring products for individual orders”:

PC 1.3. Maintain sewing equipment and equipment for high-tech components and products.

PC 1.4. Carry out step-by-step processing of garments of various assortments using machines or manually with division of labor and individually.

PC 1.5. Form a three-dimensional shape of a semi-finished product using equipment for WTO.

PC 1.6. Comply with labor safety rules.

PC 1.7. Use technical, technological and regulatory documentation.

PC 2.1. Perform unit-by-unit quality control of the garment.

PC 2.2. Determine the causes of defects during product manufacturing.

PC 2.3. Prevent and eliminate sewing defects.

Educating: To develop general competencies in students:

OK. 1 - Understand the essence and social significance of your future profession, show sustained interest in it.

O.K.2 - Organize your own activities based on the goal and methods of achieving it, determined by the leader.

O.K.3- Analyze the work situation, carry out technical and final control, evaluation and correction of one’s own activities, bear responsibility for the results of one’s work.

O.K.4 – Search for information necessary to effectively perform professional tasks.

O.K.5 - Use information and communication technologies in professional activities.

O.K.6 - Work in a team, communicate effectively with colleagues and client management.

Developmental : Develop students’ skills:

Apply theoretical knowledge in practice;

Analyze errors during product processing;

Creative abilities of students;

Instill cultural, labor and production skills.

Methodical: Activation of students' mental activity.

4. Lesson type: Performing complex complex work.

5. Lesson teaching methods:

verbal : explanation, conversation with posing problematic questions, dialogue, additional instruction as necessary.

visual : personal demonstration of working techniques by a master, unit processingpatch pocket - briefcase b.

practical : independent work of students.

6. Place of the lesson: Training and production workshop.

7. Lesson time: 6 hours.

PROCEDURE FOR CONDUCTING THE CLASS

No.

Name of questions and their brief content

Guidelines

I Organizational part

Greeting students.

Report from the public master on the availability of students, their readiness for the lesson, completeness of tools and devices.

Mark those missing in the journal. Identified deficiencies should be eliminated if possible.

Public mechanic's report on the presence and condition of equipment.

II Induction training

Report the topic of the lesson: “Methods of processing a patch pocket - a briefcase.”

Survey of students based on the material from the previous lesson: “Types and methods of processing straight yokes.”

Distribute task cards, ask a few questions on previous topics individually, conduct a frontal survey on terminology and safety precautions.

What is a coquette? Types of yokes?

Yoke - This is a cut-off part of the upper part of a shoulder or waist product. It is one of the structural parts in the product. There are flirtscut and one-piece with the product.

What are the shapes of yokes?

Coquettes come in straight, oval and curly shapes.

The yokes are connected by: stitching, stitching, overhead and relief seams.

What types of finishes can be used when processing the bottom edge of the yoke?

The lower section of the yoke can be trimmed with edging, frill, or lace.

Explain safety precautions for manual work

Fold the yoke piece and the main piece with right sides facing inward. Align the cuts. Baste along the yoke with straight running stitchesL st = 1.5-2.0 cm, seam width – 0.9 cm. Sew the yoke with a 1cm wide seam along the yoke. Process the seam using a special machine. Then iron, iron, topstitch or topstitch, depending on the model.

Describe safety precautions when working with a machine.

The yoke can be connected to the product: with an overlay seam with a closed cut, using an undercut, stitched and stitched, using or not finishing (piping, lace, braid, frill, etc.)

Explain safety precautions when working at an ironing table.

Collect task cards. Announce grades for oral answers.

Post your grades in the journal.

Explanation of the new topic: “Methods of processing a patch pocket - a briefcase.”

Write the topic on the board.

Explanation of purpose: in this lesson, study the types and methods of processing a patch pocket - a briefcase. By the end of the lesson, everyone should have worked on a knot.

Bring to the attention of students what they will do in the lesson and what they will learn.

The briefcase pocket is a fashionable sports version of the patch pocket. Regular patch pockets can easily be converted into briefcase pockets. It can be done in various ways. Let's look at some of them:

Invite students to name for themselves which products can be used to make a pocket - a briefcase.

1. 1. 1. Pin the placket with the raw outer edge to the pocket, face to face.

         Sew the bar, seam width 0.5 cm.

         Cut off the seam allowances close to the stitching, make notches (3) in the curved areas, not reaching the stitching by 0.1 cm.

         Baste the bar to the wrong side.

         Iron the edge.

         Topstitch 0.1 cm from the seam of attaching the placket to the pocket. If desired, the edge can be stitched additionally at a greater distance (according to the model), without catching the bar with the ironed outer edge.

         Pin the pocket to the product along the marked lines.

         Sew only the bottom strip to the edge by 0.1 cm. If desired, the bottom bar can be adjusted additionally at a greater distance (according to the model). Place 3 cm long fasteners in the upper corners.

For rounded pockets, the effect of volume is achieved by using two strips that match the shape of the pocket.

The dimensions of the pocket depend on the model and dimensional characteristics of the product. The size of the allowances when cutting along the lower and side cuts is 0.7-1 cm, and along the top cut depends on the model and processing method (2-3.5 cm).

On the pocket pattern, draw a placket line along the outer edge of the pocket and at a distance of about 4 cm from it (1). Remove the bar from the pocket part as a separate part. Cut out the pocket and placket from fabric with seam allowances along all cuts: cut out the pocket once, and cut the placket twice.

Defects,

the straps do not match the main pocket (inaccurate cut).

Remedy: Refine the cut, recut if necessary.

Different widths of planks.

Remedy: check the width of the cut strips, check the width of the seam for attaching the strips.

Rectangular satchel pocket with one-piece pleat detail

1. 1. 1. Stitch the outer edge of the pocket in the upper corners exactly to the bartack seam.

Iron the pocket ready.

For this pocket, the effect of volume is achieved through one single piece for the folds.

The side edges and bottom edge form the outer fold line of the fold. At equal distances that correspond to the desired width of the fold (2-2.5 cm), draw two lines from the bottom and side edges of the pocket. The middle is the line of the inner fold of the fold.

Connect the vertices of the corners with a dotted line. Through the top of the inner corner at right angles to the dotted line, draw a line intersecting the line of the inner fold of the fold at two points. From these intersection points, draw straight lines parallel to the dotted line until they intersect with the outer (third) line (5). Cut out the corners along the drawn solid lines.

Cut out the pocket with seam allowances. On the side and bottom cuts - 1 cm, on the top - 2.5-3 cm.

Defects, which can arise when processing this pocket: crooked corners, different widths of slats.

Briefcase pocket with stitched straight detail for folds.

In this pocket, the effect of volume is achieved by stitching a rectangular strip of fabric.

This is the easiest way to make a briefcase pocket from a regular rounded or rectangular pocket. For a part with pleats, you will need a rectangular strip of fabric with a width equal to twice the desired width of the fold (4-5 cm), and a length equal to the length of the side sections of the pocket plus the length of the hem of the top section of the pocket.

The allowance for the top edge of the pocket is 2.5-3 cm, for the side and bottom edges it is 1 cm.

Defects, which can occur when processing this pocket:

Rounded briefcase pocket.

Iron the seam allowance along the top edge of the pocket inside out.

Adjust the seam allowance along the top edge of the pocket.

On the placket, iron the allowance of one longitudinal section on the wrong side.

Pin the other longitudinal section of the plank to the pocket along the side and bottom sections face to face.

Tuck short sections of the strap at the top edge of the pocket.

Sew the placket to the pocket.

Cut seam allowances close to the stitching, and notch in the rounded areas (7).

Turn the bar inside out. Sweep the edges.

Iron the edges of the strip (8).

Topstitch the bar to the edge (optional).

Pin the edges of the strip to the product along the alignment lines and stitch into the edge (9).

Pin the edges of the pocket and the trim.

Iron.

Stitch the side edges of the pocket from the top edge to the edge for a length of about 1 cm.

Iron the pocket ready.

The allowance for the top edge of the pocket is 2.5-3 cm or according to the model. The allowance for the side and bottom edges of the pocket is 1 cm. For the placket, you will need a rectangular strip of fabric with a width equal to twice the desired width of the fold (4-5 cm), and a length equal to the length of the side cuts of the pocket plus the length of the hem of the top cut of the pocket.

Defects, that may arise when processing this pocket:

Defects that may occur when processing and connecting any type of briefcase pocket to the product.

A) The top edge of the patch pocket does not adhere to the shelf. When attaching a patch pocket to a shelf, the side edges of the pocket are shifted to one another

b) asymmetrical arrangement of patch pockets. The locations of the pockets are not accurately marked; the pockets are processed deviating from the intended lines

Remedy: Delete the line and do it again

Remedy: Carefully chalk the pockets and adjust them. To eliminate the defect, rip off one pocket and stitch it symmetrically to the other

III Current briefing

Exercises for students to process the top edge of a skirt with a stitched belt.

Ensure that students perform operations in the most efficient ways with the least amount of errors and shortcomings.

Practical demonstration of the operation

Monitoring the correct implementation of technological techniques.

In the process of walking around workplaces, monitor the work of all students, give the necessary instructions during the observation, correct and prevent errors, and pay attention to shortcomings in the work. Do not give students ready-made instructions on how to correct mistakes, but ensure that they themselves find ways to eliminate them. Ensure proper working hours.

Monitoring the organization of labor and the workplace.

Monitoring compliance with labor safety rules

Preventing careless handling of tools and equipment.

Give advanced tasks to strong students.

Control over the quality of work performed. Explanation, advice.

Repeated demonstration of techniques and methods of performing work individually at students’ workplaces.

Individual work with weak students:

IV Final briefing

Summarize the working day.

Answer student questions

Reinforce the lesson material covered and note the degree to which the goal has been achieved.

Give a brief summary of the lesson:

a) note the discipline of students;

b) point out shortcomings in the work and typical errors;

c) identify the most active students;

d) evaluate the work of students in class.

Indicate ways to eliminate errors.

Submit grades to the journal.

Give a task for self-preparation.

Write the task on the board.

Remove jobs.

Make a journal entry about the availability and serviceability of equipment.

Assign duty officers.

By the list

Remove the training and production workshop.

Close the workshop.

Foreman __________________ Tonoyants Yu.A.

Hi all!

Today, dear sewing lovers, I bring to your attention the first part of the article about pockets - briefcases.

In three parts of the article about patch pockets - briefcases, we will learn how to make a pattern for a pocket - briefcase, cut out parts for it, sew them together and fit the pocket onto the product.

In principle, any patch pocket can be turned into a briefcase pocket. But is anyone worth it? The volumetric shape of such a pocket is already a very noticeable decoration. Therefore, a pocket-briefcase will look most organic if the base of the pocket is a piece in the shape of a square, a rectangle, a square, a rectangle narrowed at the bottom or top, or the same square and rectangle (or almost a square and a rectangle), but with rounded edges.

What is the difference between a briefcase patch pocket and a regular patch pocket? Volume or, if you want, convexity. That’s probably why the pocket-briefcase is called that, because when finished, on the product, it really looks very similar to a briefcase.

This volume or convexity is achieved by adding one (two) more parts to the pocket. It is called differently: placket, fold, pocket connector, rectangular strip of fabric, etc.

And the topic of today's article is a pocket - a briefcase with rounded corners (ends, edges, etc.)

1. The pocket is a briefcase with rounded corners and one separate additional detail.
2. The pocket is a briefcase with rounded corners and two separate additional details.

The pocket is a briefcase with rounded corners and one separate additional detail.

To make such a patch pocket, you need to add one more additional detail to the pattern of the pocket base. This is a rectangle whose length is equal to the length of the outer contour of the pocket pattern.

The width of the part is 2 – 3 – 4 – 5 cm and more (according to the model). The larger the planned patch pocket - briefcase, respectively, the placket is cut wider, and vice versa.

On all four sides of the additional part and on three sides of the pocket (both sides and bottom), add seam allowances 0.7 - 1.2 cm wide (according to the model). At the top of the pocket, a double hem will require 2 - 4 cm of allowance (according to the model).

When cutting, it is better to place the pattern of the additional part on the fabric so that the grain of the fabric runs along the short, transverse side of the strip. Then the part will be a little plastic along its length (along the transverse thread), which will certainly be useful when connecting parts.

The placket can be cut from the same fabric as the main part of the pocket, or from another fabric, a companion fabric or a contrasting color to the main one (according to the model).

Patch pockets – briefcases are the “exclusive right” of clothing made from dense medium and heavy materials. And sections of tissues of these types, as a rule, are not very “free-flowing”. Therefore, it is quite possible to do without processing sections of pocket parts cut from similar fabrics.

But since voluminous pockets - briefcases - are most often placed on outerwear or on clothes related to the sports style, safari style, and clothing of such types, as a rule, is heavily used and subject to increased loads, it is still better that the cuts inside the pockets are protected.

Therefore, we treat the cut of one of the two longitudinal sides of the plank from shedding.

Fold the hem allowance at the top of the pocket to the wrong side (along the contour line). There we fold it again, in half, iron it and adjust it to the pocket (seam width according to the model).

On the additional part, turn it on the wrong side and iron one of the two long longitudinal sides of the part (from the side of the processed cut).

We fold the bar with the pocket with the right sides facing each other. And we baste it to the pocket (along the sides and bottom), with the long longitudinal side (with the raw cut), combining both parts along the contour lines.

The short transverse sides of the strap, along the line of the upper contour of the pocket, are turned to the wrong side and basted onto the pocket.

We lay a machine stitch along the contour of the pocket.

We trim the seam allowances to 0.5 cm

In places where the curves are rounded, we cut out the seam allowance with triangles.

If the outer side along the edge of the pocket (see further in the article) is not stitched to the edge, then it is better to treat the completed seam to prevent fraying.

We turn the connecting piece stitched onto the main part of the pocket to the wrong side, sweep out the edge of the pocket and iron it.

If there is a need for this (according to the model), you can lay it along the swept edge of the pocket.

Further. A pocket is placed in the place marked on the product. And combining the folded edge on the long longitudinal side of the strip and the contour line of the pocket on the product, we baste the pocket onto the product, and then stitch it into the edge.

How to secure the top side of the pocket, see below in the article.

The pocket is a briefcase with rounded corners and two separate additional details.

If the patch pocket - briefcase, discussed in the previous part of the article, simply protrudes (due to an additional part) from the surface of the product, then the pocket, which will be discussed in the second part of the article, is more like an accordion pocket.

Empty, it may not stand out much on the product. But if you put something there, then due to not one, but two additional parts, such a pocket “swells” well.

To make this type of briefcase patch pocket with rounded corners, we need to cut out two additional parts. We outline the outline of the pocket pattern, applying it to a new sheet of paper.

And at a distance (width of the slats (additional parts)) 2 – 3 – 4 – 5 cm, etc. (according to the model) from the edge of the drawn contour we draw a second contour.

Using the resulting patterns, we cut out the pocket details. There is one main part, but there are two additional ones, identical.

The connecting parts (straps) can be cut from the same fabric as the main part of the pocket, or from finishing fabrics (according to the model).

All parts are cut out with seam allowances of 0.7 - 1.2 cm.

We process the cut along the top side of the pocket and four cuts along the short transverse sides of both strips to prevent fraying.

Then, on both parts of the straps and on the main part of the pocket, we turn the seam allowance (along the line of the upper contour) to the wrong side and adjust it with a seam 0.6 - 1 cm wide (according to the model, it depends on the width of the seam allowance).

On one of the planks we process the cut and hem the allowance on the wrong side along the sides and bottom. You can read how to do this correctly in the article (second part of the article, pockets with rounded corners).

Having placed two parts of the planks face to face, we connect them together with a stitch stitch. The stitch is laid along the inner contour of the parts.

We treat the sections of connected parts to prevent shedding.

Now this entire “structure”, consisting of two stitched strips, is placed on the pocket so that the strip, the allowances on the long sides of which are not tucked, lies with the front side facing the front side of the pocket. (Between them there is a second strip stitched to the first, with a folded allowance).

The details of the pocket and the strap (one) are swept together,

and then a machine stitch is laid along the contour of the pocket and placket.

All this time you need to make sure that the strip located inside is not caught in the seam.

The seam allowances made are trimmed to 0.5 cm,

and in places of curves, allowances are cut out using triangles.

The completed seam is treated to prevent fraying (for pockets without external stitching to the edge).

Then, the strips are turned to the wrong side of the pocket, the edge of the pocket is swept out

and along the edge:

• or the line is not executed at all;

So, how can you secure the now protruding pocket parts at the top?

An additional piece (strap, pocket connecting piece) can be folded in half and the side of the pocket can be stitched with a stitch in the seam, one

Along the top, in the corners, on both sides of the pocket, you can sew triangles, equilateral or elongated more downwards.

In order to more securely secure the entire upper side of the pocket - briefcase on the product, you can first sew the lower side of the strap onto the product with a stitch up to 3 cm long. The stitch is laid along the inner seam or fold.

And then the top side of the strip is adjusted to the bottom line in the seam (on top, one or two lines (according to the model)). See above in the article.

You don’t have to secure the protruding pocket at all (according to the model).

By the way, when making most pockets - briefcases with a flap - this is exactly what they do.

The pocket is a briefcase with a flap.

Often the valve is an integral part of a pocket - a briefcase. And the valve for the pocket - briefcase is done, just like on, after sewing the pocket itself.

Pockets - briefcases with rounded corners have been mastered, move on.

Good luck to all! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!

So I’m ready to create a master class! When I cut a new bag, the question always arises of what type of pockets to make. The internal ones are more and less clear, but there are a great variety of external, decorative ones. Today I will show you how to sew a voluminous briefcase pocket.
I apologize in advance for the quality of the photos - it’s been cloudy for 2 weeks now and it’s simply impossible to take photos in natural light (((

Well, let's begin!

We cut out the flap for the pocket from paper in full size, always taking into account the increase for stitching and topstitching - I have 1.5 cm.

We make a pattern of our future pocket on paper (checkered paper is convenient for me). Take paper of any size (you can use a double notebook sheet). Mark the middle of the pocket on paper, then draw 2 parallel lines at a distance of the planned width of the fold. My fold will be 1.5 cm.

We lay out future folds on the paper.

Draw an increase on top for the hem of the pocket, approximately 1.5-2.5 cm.

We apply the flap and outline the width of the pocket. We make an increase from the side edge line, the amount depends on how deep the pocket you want. We draw and cut off the excess - I also have an increase of 1.5 cm.

We bend the top and side increases, apply a flap and see how long we want the pocket, draw and cut off the excess.

Cut out corners equal to the depth of the pocket. During the sewing process, this will help us lay out the pocket without any problems. I have 1.5*1.5 cm. The finished pattern looks like this:

We cut out the valve. If the fabric is loose or stretches, glue it with non-woven fabric. We connect the parts as in the picture. We make notches on the fillets.

We turn the flap out, baste it (if the fabric is soft) or iron it through a damp cloth, stitch and tack on top so that the parts do not fidget.

We transfer the pattern to the fabric, making seam allowances on all sides except those marked. Draw fold and top hem lines on the fabric. Overlay the sides and bottom.

We attach our paper pattern. It should look like this:

Iron the top hem to the wrong side and press the folds.

I usually press the pleats with one of these two options to give the pocket some volume. Today I'm using the first option.

Set off the pocket flap at a distance of 1.5 cm. Let's iron. We lay our folds, fasten them with pins and iron them again.

Iron the side hems and seam allowances according to the drawn markings. Iron the bottom allowance. It's clearer in the picture)))

Fold the piece vertically in half face to face and stitch along the fold line. On the top part approximately 1.5-2 cm and on the bottom 1.5-2 + 1 cm. allowance.

We pin the pocket to the main part and sew along the bottom fold line.

Let’s turn it over and see what we got)) I added a stitch along the sides so that the pocket would stand rigidly, like a “briefcase.” We pin with a small (1-2mm) overlap at the bottom. Outline the sides of the pocket and a little bit of the top. Like this:

Now you need to sew the pocket to the main fabric. To do this, unfold the side accordion of the pocket, the upper corner of the side, bent along the allowance line, just falls into the drawn corner and sew 0.1 cm from the edge.

Place the bottom of the pocket 0.5 cm from the edge. We mark where we will have the flap, apply it to the marking with the front side and sew it 0.1 cm from the edge.

Bend the flap and stitch 0.5 from the edge. We iron everything through a damp cloth. Ready!

Such a pocket can be made with a button, Velcro or button. The decorative stitching of the pocket can be done double. You can also do without the central fold - then you get a simpler option. There are many options!
Something like this)) This is my first master class, so if you have any questions, I will be happy to answer them!
Good mood to you all!)))

Sewing pockets is not an easy task, and many sewing beginners avoid these complicating parts. But you can’t imagine a backpack or jacket without it. In fact, it is difficult to understand the technology of sewing a pocket, but it is possible. Moreover, if the whole process is shown step by step, as in today's master class.

I'll show you how to sew a voluminous patch pocket with a zipper. This type of pocket can be found on vests or wide pants. I will sew a pocket from, and if you are interested in how this can be done, read on.

To sew a voluminous patch pocket I needed:

• textile
• zipper lock 22 cm.
• adhesive fabric
• threads in color
• single-horned sewing machine foot for sewing on a zipper
• tailor's tools: scissors, pins, ruler, chalk

How to sew a voluminous patch pocket with a zipper step by step

1. To sew a voluminous pocket on a backpack, I cut out the pocket parts with the following dimensions:

• 1 - pocket upper part 5.5 x 23. Round the corners, as in the photo
• 2 - pocket upper part 9 x 28
• 3 – bottom pocket 16.5 x 27. Cut 2 x 2 cm in the corners as in the photo

2. I glue parts 1 and 2 from the wrong side with adhesive fabric in order to give rigidity.

3. I combine the middles and place parts 2 and 3 on top of each other, right sides inward. I fix it with pins.

4. I stitch it on a machine, overcast the edges with an overlocker, or use a zigzag stitch.

5. I sweep out the cut using hand stitches. I iron it with an iron with steam, or through damp gauze - an ironing iron.

6. Sew the corners of the bottom of the patch pocket

7. I overcast the edges using an overlocker, using a zigzag stitch.

8. I bend the edges of the parts inward by 1 cm. I baste with hand stitches. I iron it with an iron with steam, or through damp gauze - an ironing iron.

9. I sew the hem with a straight stitch, retreating from the edge by 1 mm.

10. I cut out two parts that will serve as fasteners for the zipper lock. I fold them inward and iron them.

11. I attach the fasteners with pins along the edges of the pocket part.

12. I unfasten the lock and place it on the pocket piece, as shown in the photo.

13. I sew on the lock using a single-arm zipper foot.

14. I sew off the lock from the front side.

If it’s not clear, here it is - this line along the edge of the zipper lock.

15. Now I sew the lock onto the top of the pocket.

Girls, have a nice day everyone!)))) I made the promised MK for my pocket-briefcase. My camera is working worse and worse, it’s time to retire it, but I think the essence will be clear even with not very high-quality photos. The fabric is all stained - I decided to recycle a piece for tildes, which I unsuccessfully managed to tint with tea. Don't let the goodness go to waste.))))
Well, now read.)))

We will need a pocket template made of whatman paper or cardboard. We start by measuring the length of three sides of the pocket, placing a centimeter on the edge. I got 37 cm.
We cut it. On the lining we outline the outline of the pocket and add allowances. There is no allowance needed for the top edge of the pocket. We also make sure to draw them. In general, it must be said that in these pockets the accuracy of the allowances is very important. Therefore, I made myself a template from cardboard for allowances 1 cm wide. Now everything should match down to a millimeter.
We also outline the pocket on the main fabric, add a hem allowance along the top (I have 3 cm). On the sides we draw the same allowances as on the lining.
Cut out the top and lining. We cut the side of the pocket: it is a rectangle. Its length is equal to the perimeter of three sides of the pocket + 2 allowance widths; width - 2 pocket side widths + 2 allowance widths. My pocket perimeter is 37 cm + 2 cm allowance, the total length of the rectangle is 39 cm. I want to make the side of the pocket 2.5 cm wide, which means the width of the rectangle will be 2.5 cm x 2 plus 2 cm. allowances. Total 7 cm. The rectangle turned out to be 39x7 cm.
Fold the rectangle lengthwise, face inward, and sew short cuts exactly to the width of the seam allowance. Turn it inside out, straighten it and iron it.
We apply our rectangle to the front side of the pocket, aligning the short side with the top of the pocket (not the allowance, but the pocket itself) and aligning the cuts.
And we start pinning around the perimeter. In the roundings at the corners, cut the sidewall allowances for a better fit.
Fold the hem allowance over the side and fold the centimeter up, as in the photo.
Place the lining on top of everything, wrong side up, and pin in several places.
Sew through all layers, strictly observing the width of the allowances.
Cut the allowances by half a centimeter and cut at the fillets. Turn inside through pocket hem allowance and press. Get this result. View from the inside.
And from the face.
Sew off the allowance for the hem of the pocket, I do not take the sides, only the middle part of the pocket.
Fold the side panel to the wrong side and stitch to the edge at a distance of 1 mm.
From the face it will look like this.
And this is from the inside out. Everything is clean and tidy. You can sew the pocket in place.
On the item, we outline the place where the pocket will be sewn on according to the template. Using transverse strokes we mark the place of the beginning and end of the line.
And we pin the side panel, strictly aligning the edge with the stitching line.
If you strictly observed the width of the allowances, then everything should match up to a millimeter. It coincided with me.))))
Stitch to the edge at a distance of 1 mm. from the edge.
In the corner we write more slowly so that the line does not run away.
Straighten the side panel, placing it under the middle part of the pocket, and iron it.
We get such a beautiful pocket. At this stage, you can make tacks in the corners through all the layers, but I don’t like them and therefore don’t do them, it’s more convenient to use the pocket. Or you can secure the corners by installing holnitens.
Now we sew the valve. Reinforce the upper part with interlining or dubbing, place it face to face with the unreinforced lower part and draw the outline of the flap using our pocket template. The same rounding on the pocket and flap will look harmonious, and the width will thus be the same.
Sew along the outline and trim the seam allowances. Turn it inside out, straighten it and iron it. Trim the open cut until it is even.
Now bend the flap along the stitching line and secure the edge with pins along the fold so that the flap can be unfolded for further work on it. Why is this necessary? Do you see how the slices have shifted relative to each other? If you don’t bend it this way, then due to this displacement the valve will protrude outward. At this stage, you can sew the loops if the pocket will be closed with buttons.
Unfold the flap, cut off the excess along the pins, leaving only 1-1.5 cm and pin, aligning the cut with the entrance to the pocket.
Stitch and trim the seam allowance to 3mm.
Turn the valve to the correct position. iron and topstitch at a distance of 5 mm. from the edge. Don't forget the bartacks at the beginning and end of the stitching. The pocket is ready. You can put buttons or sew on buttons.
If you turn the pocket inside out, you will see that there is not a single open cut, everything is clean and neat.
We admire the finished result!
Good luck to everyone and warm, roomy and neat pockets!))))