All Akoya cultured pearls are mistakenly referred to as Japanese, regardless of where it was grown. In the modern industry, only pearls that were cultivated directly in Japan are called Japanese akoya pearls, since now they are supplied by countries such as China, South Korea, Vietnam and Australia.

Shellfish Akoya

Akoya pearl cultivation occurs in the Pinctada bivalve mollusc, usually the species Pinctada fucata or Pinctada chemnitzi. Pinctada fucata are found in the coastal waters of Japan, while Pinctada chemnitzi are more common in the Gulf of Tonkin and along the coastline of China. Currently, most Chinese and Japanese producers use shellfish obtained by crossing both species.

Akoya pearl cultivation

Over the past hundred years, Japan has been the undisputed champion in the cultivation of Akoya pearls. Japanese-grown pearls around the world were considered a model of elegance and excellent quality. It is worth noting that the technique of growing pearls appeared only one century ago thanks to the successful experiments of the British scientist William Savile-Kent and the Japanese Kokichi Mikimoto, who used the same technology that has survived to this day.

Between the 1990s and 2007, Japan gradually began to lose its leading position, as Chinese akoya pearls appeared on the market in almost the same volume as the Japanese produced them. The October 2006 issue of the International Pearling Journal and the JCK* report noted that most Chinese cultured pearls were exported to Japan, where they were labeled as Japanese Akoya.

2008 and 2009 were the hardest years for the Chinese pearl industry. In the province where Akoya pearls were grown, several natural disasters struck one after another, almost destroying all production. In 2008 there was a strong earthquake in Sichuan province, in August 2009 Typhoon Morakot came from the Philippines, washing away an entire city in Taiwan and causing great damage to Zhejiang province. At present, China is only a minor player in the akoya pearl market, while Japan has once again taken the lead.

Key Features of Akoya Pearls

Akoya pearl culture molluscs, whether they were farmed in China, Japan or Australia, have common characteristics. They produce smaller pearls than those grown in Pinctada margaritafera (black-lipped clam) or Pinctada maxima (white-lipped clam). Cultured pearls have a diameter of 2 to 11 millimeters, and most often - from 6 to 8 millimeters. In the event that the pearls have the same characteristics, than larger size the higher their cost.

A larger percentage of Akoya pearls are used to create classic white pearl strands, with only a 0.5mm difference in pearl size. For example, a string of pearls may consist of pearls measuring 6.5-7 millimeters or 7-7.5 millimeters. In the event that the size of the pearl in the strand is declared as 7.5 millimeters (the larger value is always indicated), this means that the diameter, in fact, can vary from 7 to 7.5 millimeters.

Akoya pearls are nuclear cultured, and the process of growing a pearl takes no more than two years. Compared to other types of sea pearls, mother-of-pearl covers the akoya core with a thinner layer.. In the warm season, mother-of-pearl grows faster and gives thicker layers, and in the cold months, the metabolic processes in the shell slow down, and new layers of mother-of-pearl turn out to be thinner. The thinner the layers, and their number is greater, the stronger the brilliance of the pearl.. A short period of time after the coldest months is considered the optimal moment for harvesting, since it is at this time that pearls have a strong, bright and deep luster.

Factors Affecting the Value of Akoya Pearls

The value of an akoya pearl string is influenced by 6 main factors. When an individual pearl or strand of pearls scores the highest in all six criteria (the size of the pearl is not taken into account), it is called “ hanadama”, or “highest category”. However, given that no two pearls are exactly alike, there is some variation in quality even within the “hanadama” category. The term "hanadama" itself is mainly used by the Japanese.

Size

Typically, Akoya pearls are 2-11 millimeters in size, with the most common being 6-8 millimeters. If other indicators are identical, then the cost is higher for those whose size is larger.

The form

Most Akoya pearls are round, but oval and baroque pearls in unusual colors often find their way onto the market. As a rule, smooth spherical pearls have the highest value.

Color

Most often, akoya pearls are white with a slight silver or pink tint. It must be said that these colors are rarely natural, since All Akoya pearls undergo a variety of treatments, including, for example, “maesori” (primary treatment - increase in shine), bleaching (giving an even white color the entire surface of the pearl), and then organic staining to enhance the pinkish tint.

The natural colors of akoya pearls are white, silver, silver blue, yellow, and beige, with secondary tones of pink, silver, or green.

Shine

Akoya pearls are primarily valued for their superb mirror-like luster, which is the main factor in classification and evaluation. A thread with a radiant sheen, while having some flaws on the surface, is valued more than a similar one with a lesser sheen, even if its surface is absolutely clean. There are five main levels of pearl brilliance (by analogy with a mirror - surrounding objects should be visible in it):

1. Great- high reflectivity, bright gloss.
2. Very good- bright brilliance, slightly inferior to the brilliance of pearls of the highest category.
3. Good- high reflectivity, but the surrounding objects in the reflection can be disassembled with difficulty.
4. Satisfactory- the reflection is weak, the surrounding objects are blurred.
5. Bad- there is practically no reflection, surrounding objects are not guessed.

Surface

Speaking about the surface, it means its smoothness and the absence of any defects. Because flawless akoya pearls are rare, specimens that have a smooth surface and a minimum of inclusions visible to the eye are in the highest category. Defects on the surface of a pearl are not only visible sags and dents, but also barely noticeable color spots, uneven luster in different parts of the surface, or violations of the integrity of the mother-of-pearl layer.

Mother-of-pearl quality

By quality, mother-of-pearl is usually divided into three categories:

1. Acceptable- the core of the pearl is completely hidden, the surface does not have matte chalky white areas.
2. Visible core- when rotating, different sides of the pearl shine noticeably differently, one more, the other less.
3. Matte- the surface is frankly matte white, similar to chalk.

A collection of necklaces and bracelets made of high-quality Akoya pearls can be viewed in the Busiki.ru showroom at Tsvetnoy Boulevard metro station. Some akoya jewelry presented in the section.

* October issue of JCK Annual Pearl Report, page 88, Japanese and Chinese Akoya pearls.
JCK (Jewelers Circular Keystone) has been an internationally recognized authority since 1869, sponsoring the largest JCK Wholesale Jewelery Show in Las Vegas and publishing the JCK Magazine.

Akoya pearls are a type of stone that was practically the first to be cultivated. This was first done by the Japanese Kokichi Mikimoto at the beginning of the last century. It was thanks to him that new horizons opened up in the jewelry business.

Natural Akoya pearls are grown under special conditions in Pinctada bivalve oysters. The process takes about 10 months. At the same time, it is possible that the oyster will die during production. Growing pearls is a painstaking procedure that requires knowledge, experience and diligence.

Akoya pearls range in size from 3 to 10 mm. Large specimens simply won't fit in the host oyster.

Some brands offer Akoya pearls that have been grown for at least 3 years. However, outwardly, it is practically indistinguishable from a ten-month-old counterpart. Only a professional with the involvement of special equipment can find the difference.

How to choose jewelry with Akoya pearls

Most often, Japanese and Chinese Akoya pearls hit the shelves of jewelry stores. Immediately I would like to note that produced in the Middle Kingdom jewelry stone cheaper, but not always of high quality. The explanation for this is very simple. Pearl production in China is under development. This does not exclude errors and does not guarantee the quality control of finished products.

Triada Pearl offers to buy Akoya pearls from leading Japanese brands. In their work, they use their accumulated experience and approach the assessment of the quality of their goods with particular care.

In our catalog you will find a wide range

Harvested only from the calm waters of Japan, the history of Akoya pearls is inextricably linked to Kokichi Mikimoto, the company's founder and creator of the first cultured pearl.

Known for their delicate colors and diamond luster, Akoya pearls are created by the world's smallest pearl oysters. No larger than 6-8 cm, Akoya oysters can be found in the calm waters of Japan, where cool temperatures slow down the formation of mother-of-pearl, resulting in pearls that are more compact and brighter.

Japanese Akoya pearls, ranging in size from 2-10 mm, are usually colored in various colors - from pink and silvery white to cream, gold or bluish gray. It is the world's most popular saltwater pearl, so if anyone has a classic pearl necklace or a pair of pearl earrings, chances are that it is with Akoya pearls. Celebrities such as Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor and Jackie Kennedy wore the same shiny Akoya pearls.

It is impossible to talk about Akoya pearls without mentioning Kokichi Mikimoto, whose name is inextricably linked with the brilliant pearl. The son of a Japanese noodle manufacturer, Mikimoto created the world's first Akoya cultured pearl. This happened in 1893 when he manually injected an irritant into an oyster to stimulate it to form a pearl.

The advent of cultured pearls in the early 1900s turned the entire pearl industry upside down, causing the value of natural pearls to drop. While pearls were the prerogative of exclusively the upper strata of the population, then later these gems became available to everyone. By 1935, there were already 350 pearl farms in Japan, producing 10 million cultured pearls each year. And Mikimoto had to constantly defend himself against accusations that his pearls weren't real.

However, scientific evidence suggested otherwise - cultured pearls had the same properties as naturally formed deep-sea pearls, with the only difference being that a human hand was applied to start the natural process.

As happens in nature, not all Akoya oysters used for pearl cultivation produced perfectly round and shiny gemstones. It takes about 10-18 months for pearl formation to begin, and less than half of all Akoya oysters survive the process. Even then, only less than 5% of the pearls produced by the surviving oysters are considered to be of sufficient quality to be used in the jewelry industry.

Today, Mikimoto's legacy thrives, thanks to the Japanese jewelry house that bears his name and is renowned the world over for its Akoya pearl jewelry. Shining pearls look equally good on their own in a pair of classic stud earrings, as well as in alliance with white diamonds or colored gemstones.

The recent surge in the popularity of pearls has given many fine jewelry designers the opportunity to incorporate sparkling Akoya pearls into contemporary pieces that showcase its durability and versatility.

Jewelry with Akoya pearls

Ring iKuria"Laika" in yellow gold with gray 8 mm Akoya pearls, orange and yellow sapphires and tsavorites.

Earrings Qayten in rose gold with diamonds and strands of Akoya pearls.

One of a kind necklace Mikimoto"Duet", which was presented at the exhibition. The jewelry is made of white gold with diamonds, Akoya pearls and a single rare conch pearl.

Ring Qayten in white gold with Akoya pearls.

'Imperial' bracelet with pear-shaped diamonds and Akoya pearls in white gold.

Winterson ring Amber Eclipse with white pearl and orange sapphire in yellow gold.

Earrings Seaman Schepps Bubble with white Akoya pearls and gems in yellow gold.
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The MIR TV channel continues to show the documentary film "Japanese policeman" - about the traditions and culture of Japan, one of the most interesting and mysterious countries. Japan is famous for its numerous temples, only in the city of Kyoto there are 1600 buildings. And at the end of autumn, tourists come here to admire the red maples. Another attractive place for foreigners is "pearl farms", because Japan is famous for its pearl production. . Watch the documentary "Japanese policeman" on December 9 on the MIR TV channel at 11:15.

Kashikojima Island is a real pearl of Japan, and Ago Bay is called the “Bay of Pearls”. Jewels were mined here in the 7th century and resold to China. And in the 19th century, they began to grow them at all. Today, for the cultivation of Japanese pearls, freshwater mollusk shells are purchased in the United States. It lives in the Mississippi rivers. It is from the shells of these mollusks that the kernels are ideally machined. round shape.

In fact, the island of Kashikojima appeared thanks to the pearl fishery. He was supported at the state level, since trade gave a chance to earn currency, and the United States was Japan's main trading partner. During this time, many jewelry stores and industries have appeared that are engaged in the creation and sale of pearl products. Many of them have turned into family businesses, so they have been operating for a hundred years.

Today, natural and artificial pearls are equally expensive. Cultured pearls must be round and undamaged. But natural is rare. And its price depends on the quirkiness of the form. However, in any case, determines the market. Japanese pearls are sold to Europe, the USA and China. But most of it is still designed for the domestic market.

Pearls are not just a jewel and a popular commodity; for local residents, they are a symbol of their country. Japanese women always wear pearls for any solemn event. According to local residents, even the export of pearls is not just a trade, but a real philosophy, the development of which is supported by the government.

All the colors of the rainbow: how to choose the best pearls

Pearls are valued when all seven colors of the rainbow are visible on them, says a local jeweler. Color can be compared to soap bubble. In the center of the pearl must be green color, which shimmers in red, then in other colors, and white is noticeable along the edges.

But cheap pearls look simple - they are white. However, if you look at the product in dim light, you may not notice the difference, so real professionals show pearls in natural light. It does not matter what color the pearl itself is - it can be black or gold, depending on which shell it was formed in. Even in one color palette, the price can vary from 100 thousand to 500 thousand rubles. The price is formed by the market. While most customers want a particular color necklace, that one will cost more.

Under natural conditions, pearls are formed from a grain of sand for more than ten years. All this time she is enveloped in mother-of-pearl. The substance of the mollusk secretes in the same way as a person tears when a grain of sand enters the eye. In order for the beauty of pearls not to fade, it is necessary to maintain a certain level of humidity. To do this, pearls are periodically dipped into glasses of water.

The Japanese, who in the past began to mine and sell pearls in the form jewelry, very quickly managed to earn a fortune.

“My grandfather was the first to make pearl jewelry. They were pretty basic. But it was no longer pure pearls, but adorned with gold. My father worked in an era when there was an economic boom in Japan, he turned around well. He made unique pearl jewelry. I'm trying to create something of my own. I want to use all the traditions that have been accumulated in our family. My goal is to create my own unique jewelry, skillfully combining natural and cultured pearls,” says the owner of the jewelry store Matsui.

Why did pearl divers become farmers?

Shellfish are bought on the island of Shikoku. In accordance with the size of the shell, the nucleolus is selected. One such nucleolus costs about 20 yen. The cost of a finished pearl will be an average of 350 yen. In Ago Bay, pearls with a diameter of one millimeter to a centimeter are grown. The larger the pearl, the more expensive it is naturally. A necklace of large pearls can even cost millions.

Pearl cultivation is a non-waste production. They sell not only the insides of the mollusk, but also mother-of-pearl shutters. Empty shells are exported abroad, where souvenirs, buttons and other decorative items are made from them. For example, 20 kilograms of such doors will cost 500 yen.

The Pinctada fucata bivalve clam is the first single cultured pearl, developed more than 100 years ago thanks to the innovation of Kokichi Mikimoto.

Southern Japan is the world's largest habitat for Akoya oysters. The prefectures of Ehime, Nagasaki, Kumamoto and Mie collect most of the total pearls in Japan.

The shell size of Pinctada fucata molluscs during nucleation reaches 8-13 cm. Akoya is the most delicate oyster that dies after the pearl is removed from it. The size of pearls is 2-11 mm in diameter, 10 mm pearls are extremely rare, 11 mm are very rare.

Akoya saltwater pearls are round in shape more often than other types of cultured pearls. Natural shades of this type of pearl can be warm and cold: from blue, cream to pale pink.

Due to the low survival rate of these oysters, this type of pearl is the most difficult to cultivate.

The operation to introduce the kernel into the oyster requires precision and the highest professionalism. The Japanese are the world's best specialists and carriers of the unique technology of nucleation of pearl mollusks.

Fifty percent of Akoya oysters die during surgery (nucleation). Of the surviving mollusks, 1/3 will not be able to evenly cover the core with mother-of-pearl, and 1/3 of the harvested crop will be generally unsuitable for sale.

Only 5% of the total Akoya harvest can be gem-quality pearls, and only 2% of that 5% will be of the highest quality. This 2% will be awarded the title of "HANADAMA" (translated from Japanese - the perfect flower).

Akoya pearl necklaces are highly valued around the world. The amount of labor costs for the selection of high-quality pearls in the necklace is huge. By the time a sufficient number of pearls (45-50 pieces) has been picked up, the sorters will have sorted out more than 10,000 pearls in two stages.

In the House of Pearls of Xenia Celestial, pearl necklaces of "HANADAMA" quality are accompanied by a certificate from The Japan Pearl Science Laboratory.