Hello, my dear readers)). Today I want to dwell on a fairly important topic in sewing accessories and consider in detail all types of lightning, what they are and how to choose the right zipper when sewing clothes.

A zipper is necessary for fastening clothes or various decorations for clothes.

The zipper can be used as the main detail - on the fasteners of skirts, dresses, jackets, and can go as an additional element when fastening pockets, some unusual folds, on accessories.

All zippers work on the same principle, but have different shape teeth. Lightning is divided into 3 types:

• spiral
• tractor
• secret

Zip Prongs also differ, they can be of two types:

• plastic (plastic)
• metal

Also lightning can be:

• detachable
• one-piece
• with two locks

One-piece zippers put on dresses, skirts, trousers, pockets, they are unfastened only on one side.

Detachable zippers used when sewing jackets and furniture covers, they are unbuttoned on both sides.

Zips with two locks there are also non-detachable and detachable. Detachable ones are used in jackets and covers, and one-piece ones are used in tents, backpacks and bags.

When choosing a zipper, you must consider that each has its own good and bad sides. Synthetic zippers are not threatened by corrosion, they are very elastic. But still, metal zippers are distinguished by reliability and durability, it is not without reason that they are put on sports and heavy clothing (when increased strength is needed).

Components of lightning

• Runner ("dog")- a lock that, moving along the zipper, closes and opens the zipper, closing the teeth.
• Lightning links are actually lightning teeth themselves.
• A zipper tape is a special strip of fabric on which zipper teeth are attached at the edges.
• Clip-rivet - a metal or plastic plate, thanks to which the lock does not come off the zipper. There are two clips at the top of the zipper, and one clip at the bottom with a one-piece zipper. And on detachable zippers at the bottom there are two clips.

Types of runners (locks)

There are three types of zippers:

• Automatic - inside the lock there is a mechanism that prevents the zipper from opening in any position of the tongue on the lock.
• Semi-automatic - in the position when the tongue is lowered down, the zipper does not unfasten due to a stupor.
• Haberdashery - a slider without fixation and stupor.

The use of types of lightning in tailoring

Spiral zipper is used in summer and spring clothes, in bags.

Tractor zipper is often used when sewing outerwear, backpacks and bags.

For decoration, tractor zippers with rhinestones are often used.

Iron zippers are used when sewing jackets, jeans and bags.

Hidden zippers are indispensable when sewing clothes from thin and light fabrics.

It is very important to choose the right zipper when sewing a product, otherwise it may not be a very pleasant situation. I sewed men's windbreaker from a raincoat fabric, and I had a zipper prepared for it - a plastic tractor one, and when I sewed it into a jacket, the zipper began to lie in a wave, that is, for a thin raincoat jacket, it was necessary to take a light spiral zipper, and not a coarse tractor one. But who knew?! All this only comes with experience.

It should also be noted that zippers differ in quality. A good zipper should be sealed with a special mesh, the sliders are of good quality, and the zipper should be unfastened very easily. All these qualities are necessary so that the lightning can withstand a long load.

These moments are especially important when sewing children's jackets and more. light clothing, since the child should in no case break the lock and other components of the zipper. Therefore, it is necessary to approach the issue of choosing accessories for children's clothing especially responsibly.

How can I sew a zipper?

There are several ways to stitch zippers into clothes. Now we will consider each of them in detail.

And also a useful video on this topic:

How to sew a zipper into the "frame"?

Lightning is sewn into the seam of a dress or skirt, as well as in various children's clothing - overalls, sweatshirts, etc.

Such a zipper looks very beautiful, so this method of stitching a zipper is very useful to you.

This method is indispensable when processing the codpiece on trousers. The principle is that the zipper is sewn under the bar, and is not visible from the outside.

And detailed video about the zipper on the trousers:

I hope the article was useful to you, and see you soon on the blog pages.

A hidden zipper differs from a regular zipper in that its slider is reverse side from the cloves, and the cloves themselves can be bent in an unbuttoned form. It is a hidden zipper that will allow you to make the fastener on the back of a dress or skirt as invisible and neat as possible.

Our master class will tell you in detail how to sew hidden zipper, and also introduce you to the general rules for working with this type of fasteners.

Hidden zipper: basic installation rules

Although the hidden zipper is almost invisible from the front of the product, always choose the color of the fastener to match the fabric: the zipper slider will still be noticeable, and besides, the product should look professional from the wrong side. Before installation, be sure to iron the base of the zipper with steam or wash, and then iron - this will avoid possible shrinkage and contraction of the fabric of the product. It is advisable to strengthen the seam allowances into which you will insert the zipper, especially if your fabric crumbles heavily or is cut on the bias. It is best to use a special non-woven edge.

Always chop, baste and grind down the zipper with the product from top to bottom.

There are two opinions about at what stage you need to sew in a hidden zipper: in an open seam or in an already stitched one. We recommend that you do not sew up the main seam or, in extreme cases, leave a few centimeters of the seam unsewn before the fastening.

Most modern sewing machines come with a special foot for sewing on zippers. However, there is also a special foot for sewing on a hidden zipper, and if desired, you can buy it at a sewing accessories store.

There are both metal and plastic paws on sale. Plastic paws are cheaper, on the other hand, the metal base is more reliable. It will not get scratches, which can then impair the glide of the foot on the fabric. Although the special foot greatly simplifies the work, but with a simple foot you can achieve a good result. So, let's learn how to sew in a hidden zipper!

Progress

On loose, stretchy or bias-cut fabrics, reinforce the edges with a non-woven edge. Overlock or zigzag. Baste the entire seam of the product into which you will sew the zipper.

Iron the allowance. Place the zipper over the allowance so that the teeth line up with the center seam. The slider should be 1 mm below the intended edge of the product.

Baste the zipper to the fabric in the middle of the braid, grabbing only the allowance of the product. Pull out the pins and baste the center seam to the end of the zipper. Open the zipper.

Insert the zipper foot. Set the needle to its extreme left position. Bend the teeth and insert the needle as close to the teeth as possible. If you have a foot specifically for a hidden zipper, it will unscrew the teeth itself.

Sew along the entire length of the zipper until the foot rests on the slider. Make a fastener. Stitch the other half by moving the needle to the far right position. Close the zipper. If the zipper peeks out, lay another line, even closer to the teeth.

Now sew the main seam under the zipper. Set the needle to the extreme right position. Start the seam 5-10mm above the end of the zipper stitch. Stick the needle, stepping back from the zipper seam by 1 mm.

Finish the seam to the bottom of the item. Iron the seam allowances from the wrong side.

A zipper is a small invention that has simplified the process of tailoring and further use of clothes dozens of times. Today, its varieties are made from plastic, polyesters, metal and with braid of various densities and thicknesses.

Classic elegant and functional lock consists of several elements:

• "dog" with a ring - a detail that moves along the line of the castle, closing and separating its links;
• teeth - links that provide a tight connection;
• a strip of matter (braid), on which teeth are fixed along the edge;
• rivets - elements that do not allow the “dog” to slip off the end of the line: two on top, one on the bottom on one-piece models, and a couple more on detachable ones.

If you are going to sew a zipper yourself, you need to choose the appropriate variety, depending on the purpose of the item and the type of fabric for it.

How to choose a zipper for a product

• For windbreakers, raincoats, a model made of plastic and synthetics will go to a dress made of thin fabric. It is flexible, light, not afraid of moisture, not subject to corrosion like untreated metal.
• In heavy, warm clothes, jeans, things for outdoor activities or sports, it is better to sew metal varieties. They are more durable, the teeth reliably “hold” each other and withstand increased tension.
• Hidden lightning. Model with small details, usually made of plastic/synthetic materials, it is used where deliberately visible locks are undesirable.

A secret version of the castle is often implemented in women's clothing. It is with him that the masters have more difficulties when sewing. The main problem is to make it really invisible, which it should be, based on the name. For this, the element is placed in the seam, which is assumed by the design of the product.

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Methods and features of sewing in secret locks

The hidden fastener is sewn on, step by step, accurately and consistently. It is necessary to properly fix all its parts and carefully work with the fabric, taking into account its parameters: how thin, whether the edges crumble, etc. Then the finished thing will be aesthetic, and the lock will be inconspicuous, firmly fixed on the clothes.

Before you sew a hidden zipper, you need to choose a place for it:

• in the middle of the front - so hidden fasteners are placed less often, mainly on tops, dresses with a detachable waist;
• in the side seam - here it is important to be especially careful in work so that the side does not bend after sewing the zipper to the skirt or dress;
• on the back along the central seam - a universal method that is equally well suited for thin and dense fabrics.

If you know how to stitch hidden fasteners, you don’t even have to choose them according to the shade of the product. They will completely drown in the seam and will look like its continuation. A feature of such locks is the invisibility of the line on the front side. When buying a part, you must first measure the cut under it. It should be at least 2 inches longer.

Having studied how to sew a hidden zipper on the video, you can see that the craftsmen work on machines with a special foot. It is often included in the standard set of accessories for equipment, but you can also purchase it separately - a universal model or an instance that is exactly suitable for a particular sewing machine. An overlock is also useful - before sewing the fastener, process the seams. If there is no equipment, you can take a silk oblique trim.

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Sequence of steps

It is necessary to insert the fastener into the seam when the sections are fully open. Do not forget about allowances: 1.5 centimeters wide is enough. Before you sew in the zipper, you need to outline its line with tailor's chalk, a disappearing marker, or a pointed bar of soap. The clasp is opened and placed face down on the allowances of the dress along one edge of the cut. Make sure that the teeth coincide with the axis of the middle of the back, if you insert the element along it.

You need to stitch the lock by turning the allowances along the middle seam to the wrong side, and then pressing them. It is not necessary to iron them. Be sure to determine the distance from the edge of the braid to the middle cut of matter. It will be equal to the width of the seam allowance minus 1 centimeter.

Progress

1. With your index or thumb, bend the teeth so that the place for the seam between them and the braid becomes visible.
2. Pin the upper end of the braid to the seam allowance - you need to retreat a short distance from the upper cut of the product.
3. Place the lower end of the tape so that it protrudes beyond the lower level of the cut.
4. Place the machine foot over the tape - the spiral should be under the notch, on the right side of the needle.
5. Sew the lock from the top to the mark on the section and close it.

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The line is completed when the foot rests on the "dog". The second side of the tape is placed with the front side on the allowance along the outer surface of the fabric of the product - along the cut on the other side. The upper end of the braid is pinned with a pin. Then the "construction" is opened again.

Progress

1. Place the foot of the machine above the tape - now the spiral should be under the notch along left side from the needle.
2. Fix the tape from the top to the cut mark.
3. Close the lock.

In order to properly process the open seam on the back and sew the sections on the details, it is necessary, stepping down from the mark on the section, to unscrew the lower free end of the lock to the seam allowances. It is started as close as possible to the last stitch on the stitching seams. It is best if the line "overlaps" the line of stitching the lock and is on the left side, at a distance of 1 millimeter.

During operation, you need to hold the end of the lock. The foot most convenient for operation is single-horned. The ends of the tape are cut off and edging with fabric, and it is better to fasten the ends of the line with a double knot for reliability. You will also need to iron the allowances on the finished section.

Features of sewing hidden fasteners into details from thin fabrics

When choosing a place for a fastener, you need to remember that it will look different on fabrics with different characteristics. For example, it is better not to insert a zipper into the side seam of a dress made of thin, light and delicate matter - the barrel can “lead”. In this case, the central line of the back will become a more practical and simple option. If the fabric is loose or airy, the seam allowances should be additionally reinforced with non-woven fabric.

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On products made of particularly thin fabric (such as chiffon), zippers are not recommended to be sewn in one layer. There is a danger that it will draw off matter or become noticeable. Therefore, a special lining is needed. Along the zipper line, it is fastened to the main fabric, and below the end of the lock it is left free to keep the flying hem line.

How to sew a French type seam below the end of the castle:

1. fold the details from the light main fabric with the wrong sides to each other and stitch, retreating from the cut to a distance of about 7 mm;
2. bring the line to the end of the tape - to the edge on the allowance (you do not have to make notches on bulk material);
3. cut the allowances and sew the seam so that they remain from the inside;
4. lay a line straight, retreating from the edge a distance of up to 7 mm and finish it 30 mm further than the first;
5. sew the seam allowances in one direction, and iron above it.

On the cover you will need to make a French seam - at its end there should be a transverse bartack. On the lining, the allowance is notched to connect two types of matter. Therefore, a backtack is needed - with it the edges will not “get enough sleep”. With a little practice, you can sew hidden locks on dresses, skirts, and other items, whatever the fabric, and complete your professional tailor's "arsenal" with a useful skill.

A hidden zipper is indispensable when you need a fastener invisible from the front for a dress, skirt, bag. It is not so easy to sew it in correctly without deforming the product. What you need to know to sew a hidden zipper?

Hidden zipper features

Features of a hidden zipper are that it hides in the seam of the product, and only the slider remains on the surface. In the usual one, it is located on the side of the teeth, in the hidden one, on the back side. But do not confuse, some ordinary zippers also have teeth hidden under the braid. You can distinguish it this way: in a hidden zipper in the open form, the teeth can be easily bent, while in other species it is not.

The difference between a hidden zipper - the teeth are from the inside

How to choose the right hidden zipper? Pay attention to the width, type and density of the base material. The lighter the fabric of the product, the thinner the zipper is chosen. The length should be 2-3 cm longer than the planned length of the fastener.

Iron the zipper before work. If it is on a cotton tape, it is done with steam. The fact is that the zipper tape can stretch or shrink and finished product will wrinkle the fabric.

"Hidden" sewing foot

To attach a hidden zipper, a special foot is used, which allows you to attach it as close as possible to the teeth. It does not always come with a sewing machine, but is sold in specialized stores. It differs from the usual one in the shape of the sole: on the surface of the product there are grooves or grooves for the lightning spiral.

To choose the right foot, take with you to the store any one that is suitable for sewing machine. Paws different models have design features:

• on the "leg";
• with removable sole;
• with screw fastening.

They can also be metal or plastic. Metal models will last longer. Plastic is a less durable material. Over time, such a foot is deformed by a needle or machine bar teeth, and its sliding worsens. But if the foot is needed for a one-time job, then a plastic product will do.

There are two types of feet for hidden zippers - plastic and metal.

What do you need to work

To sew a zipper, you will need:

• zipper;
• chalk
• ruler;
• tailor's pins;
• needle and thread;
• "hidden" paw.

Before starting work, check the tension of the upper and lower threads in the machine. If it is strong, then loosen it, otherwise the zipper will puff up after stitching.

Do not use too thick needles and threads for stitching.

Non-woven strips

Sewing a zipper so as not to stretch the fabric is easy. It is necessary to glue the seam allowances in the place where the zipper is sewn in with the help of non-woven strips. For this purpose are intended:

• formband - an oblique non-woven trim with a central stitch, which is used on oblique cuts or for knitwear and is glued so that the central line coincides with the seam marking;
• contenband - a non-woven adhesive strip, cut in a straight line, which is glued 1 mm beyond the seam marking.

If there is no formband or contenband, strips are cut out of non-woven fabric: for oblique cuts and knitwear along the oblique, for straight lines - along the straight line.

Formband - oblique trim with a central loop stitch

How to sew on a hidden zipper

To sew a hidden zipper, perform a series of sequential steps.

The first stage - preparation

1. Measure from the inside 1.5 cm from the cut of the fabric and draw a line with chalk on both sides.
2. Glue to the allowances at the place where the strips of non-woven fabric are sewn in - a form band or a conten band. If the fabric is rough and dense, you can do without interlining.
3. Baste the seam according to the markup.
4. Overcast the cuts with an overlocker or by hand.
5. Iron the seam. In this case, first iron the seam on one side, and then iron it on different sides.

The second stage - basting

1. Attach a closed zipper in the center to the stitching point, make chalk marks on the seam allowances and the zipper tape symmetrically on both sides in two or three places. They will be needed to more accurately sew a zipper. Top part fasteners should match the mark of the top seam for attaching a belt for a skirt or neckline, if this is a dress.
2. Insert the pins along the marks across the fastener and fasten the zipper with seam allowances under the teeth.
3. Baste the zipper over the seam allowances, piercing only one layer of fabric.
4. Remove the pins, remove the seam basting, open the zipper.

Marking is applied symmetrically on both parts

The third stage - stitching

1. Sew the zipper on the machine using a special foot until it rests on the fastener. If there is no special foot, use the usual one. Then you need to manually bend the lightning spiral and make sure that the seam goes as close as possible to the spiral, but does not damage it. If there is little experience, then it is better to attach both sides from above in order to prevent skew.
2. Zip up and make sure everything is done correctly.
3. Continue the side seam so that the bottom bartack is not visible. It should be 0.5-0.7 cm below the end of the seam.
4. Delete note.

With the help of a special foot, a hidden zipper is sewn

How to sew a hidden zipper - video

Features of sewing in a hidden zipper

Depending on the specific product, fabric, cut and sewing place, there are some nuances. Described below various options zipper stitching.

Bag, pillowcase

The easiest option to sew a zipper into a bag or pillowcase is to sew a zipper to the cut, but not sewn parts, and then assemble the product. The zipper should be 5 cm longer than the fastener. Instead of tacking, a glue stick for fabrics is also used.

1. Marking is applied to the front side of the product.
2. Lubricate the allowance with glue.
3. We impose an unzipped zipper with the slider down, combining the spiral with the marking line and press it with a hot iron.

In order not to stain the ironing surface, place paper under the item. After that, it remains only to sew a zipper on a typewriter and assemble the product.

Seamless skirt

1. The first step is to mark the place for sewing in the zipper.
2. We carefully cut the fabric to the length of the fastener, adding 5-7 cm.
3. We duplicate (glue) the sections with a suitable non-woven tape, overlay the sections.
4. We sew a zipper.
5. The rest of the incision is closed with a suture.

Dress

If the clasp in the dress starts below the neckline or armhole, the seam before the clasp starts to open is ground in advance. We carefully combine the details along the waistline, especially in detachable dresses.

Important! If the fabric is cut on an oblique or the cut is curved, duplicate the allowances with non-woven tape. We do the same with thin and knitted (stretching) fabrics.

How to sew a zipper into the side seam of a dress cut off at the waist - video

Sewing a hidden zipper into any product is not so difficult if you know some tricks and secrets. Guided by the recommendations described, everyone can easily do this.

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How neatly, beautifully and simply to sew a "zipper" (not a secret one).

There are many ways to sew a zipper, I want to suggest trying one of them - not difficult to perform, but with an unusual order of operations.

Mark with soap the line of stitching the seam in which there will be a zipper and chop off the details of the product with pins.

Lay a line along the intended line with the largest stitch.

This seam at the very end of the work will need to be removed.

Iron the seam allowances.

Pin one part of the zipper with the right side to the allowance, retreating with teeth one millimeter from the seam.

Use the one-sided foot to sew a line, departing from the teeth of the zipper by 2 millimeters.

Fasten the zipper and fold over to the other side. Pin with pins to a width of 5-7 millimeters.

Lay a line, stepping back from the fold by 1-2 millimeters.

Unscrew the zipper on the allowance and pin the other side of it with pins.

Lay a line along the second side of the zipper, retreating from the teeth by 2 millimeters.

Turn the part over to the front side and pin it with pins, marking the line of the finishing stitch.

Lay the finishing line, while capturing the zipper.

Iron the knot on the front side. Delete the very first line.

Voila! Everything turned out nice and neat!

Another option for stitching a zipper:

Put one end of the zipper face to face on the product allowance, previously swept over (here in the photo it is not swept over, since the product was sewn on a lining) and stitch, stepping back from the edge of the zipper by 2 millimeters.

Unscrew the seam allowances on the product and lay a line along the product 1-2 millimeters from the fold.

Sew the other side of the zipper in the same way. In the photo under the zipper there is a detail of a valance or a strap.

And one more option. Here is the stitching of a zipper on the front side of the product.

You also need to grind the seam and iron the allowances. Overcast or edge over allowances if necessary.
Then turn the part over to the front side.

Apply a zipper and pin with pins over the seam of the connection parts.

Stitch the zipper with a zigzag or other finishing stitch.

Delete the first line to connect the parts.