A hidden zipper is indispensable when you need a fastener invisible from the front for a dress, skirt, bag. It is not so easy to sew it in correctly without deforming the product. What you need to know to sew a hidden zipper?

Hidden zipper features

Features of a hidden zipper are that it hides in the seam of the product, and only the slider remains on the surface. In the usual one, it is located on the side of the teeth, in the secret one - on the side reverse side. But do not confuse, some ordinary zippers also have teeth hidden under the braid. You can distinguish it this way: in a hidden zipper in the open form, the teeth can be easily bent, while in other species it is not.

How to choose the right hidden zipper? Pay attention to the width, type and density of the base material. The lighter the fabric of the product, the thinner the zipper is chosen. The length should be 2-3 cm longer than the planned length of the fastener.

Iron the zipper before work. If it is on a cotton tape, it is done with steam. The fact is that the zipper tape can stretch or shrink and wrinkle the fabric in the finished product.

"Hidden" sewing foot

To attach a hidden zipper, a special foot is used, which allows you to attach it as close as possible to the teeth. It does not always come with a sewing machine, but is sold in specialized stores. It differs from the usual one in the shape of the sole: on the surface of the product there are grooves or grooves for the lightning spiral.

To choose the right foot, take with you to the store any that is suitable for the sewing machine. Paws different models have design features:

• on the "leg";
• with removable sole;
• with screw fastening.

They can also be metal or plastic. Metal models will last longer. Plastic is a less durable material. Over time, such a foot is deformed by a needle or machine bar teeth, and its sliding worsens. But if the foot is needed for a one-time job, then a plastic product will do.

What do you need to work

To sew a zipper, you will need:

• zipper;
• chalk
• ruler;
• tailor's pins;
• needle and thread;
• "hidden" paw.

Before starting work, check the tension of the upper and lower threads in the machine. If it is strong, then loosen it, otherwise the zipper will puff up after stitching.

Do not use too thick needles and threads for stitching.

Non-woven strips

Sewing a zipper so as not to stretch the fabric is easy. It is necessary to glue the seam allowances in the place where the zipper is sewn in with the help of non-woven strips. For this purpose are intended:

• formband - an oblique non-woven trim with a central stitch, which is used on oblique cuts or for knitwear and is glued so that the central line coincides with the seam marking;
• contenband - a non-woven adhesive strip, cut in a straight line, which is glued 1 mm beyond the seam marking.

If there is no formband or contenband, strips are cut out of non-woven fabric: for oblique cuts and knitwear along the oblique, for straight lines - along the straight line.

How to sew on a hidden zipper

To sew a hidden zipper, perform a series of sequential steps.

The first stage - preparation

1. Measure from the inside 1.5 cm from the cut of the fabric and draw a line with chalk on both sides.
2. Glue to the allowances at the place where the strips of non-woven fabric are sewn in - a form band or a conten band. If the fabric is rough and dense, you can do without interlining.
3. Baste the seam according to the markup.
4. Overcast the cuts with an overlocker or by hand.
5. Iron the seam. In this case, first iron the seam on one side, and then iron it on different sides.

The second stage - basting

1. Attach a closed zipper in the center to the stitching point, make chalk marks on the seam allowances and the zipper tape symmetrically on both sides in two or three places. They will be needed to more accurately sew a zipper. Top part fasteners should match the mark of the top seam for attaching a belt for a skirt or neckline, if this is a dress.
2. Insert the pins along the marks across the fastener and fasten the zipper with seam allowances under the teeth.
3. Baste the zipper over the seam allowances, piercing only one layer of fabric.
4. Remove the pins, remove the seam basting, open the zipper.

The third stage - stitching

1. Sew the zipper on the machine using a special foot until it rests on the fastener. If there is no special foot, use the usual one. Then you need to manually bend the lightning spiral and make sure that the seam goes as close as possible to the spiral, but does not damage it. If there is little experience, then it is better to attach both sides from above in order to prevent skew.
2. Zip up and make sure everything is done correctly.
3. Continue the side seam so that the bottom bartack is not visible. It should be 0.5-0.7 cm below the end of the seam.
4. Delete note.

How to sew a hidden zipper - video

Features of sewing in a hidden zipper

Depending on the specific product, fabric, cut and sewing place, there are some nuances. The various options for sewing in a zipper are described below.

Bag, pillowcase

The easiest option to sew a zipper into a bag or pillowcase is to sew a zipper to the cut, but not sewn parts, and then assemble the product. The zipper should be 5 cm longer than the fastener. Instead of tacking, a glue stick for fabrics is also used.

1. Marking is applied to the front side of the product.
2. Lubricate the allowance with glue.
3. We impose an unzipped zipper with the slider down, combining the spiral with the marking line and press it with a hot iron.

In order not to stain the ironing surface, place paper under the part. After that, it remains only to sew a zipper on a typewriter and assemble the product.

Seamless skirt

1. The first step is to mark the place for sewing in the zipper.
2. We carefully cut the fabric to the length of the fastener, adding 5-7 cm.
3. We duplicate (glue) the sections with a suitable non-woven tape, overlay the sections.
4. We sew a zipper.
5. The rest of the incision is closed with a suture.

The dress

If the clasp in the dress starts below the neckline or armhole, the seam before the clasp starts to open is ground in advance. We carefully combine the details along the waistline, especially in detachable dresses.

Important! If the fabric is cut on an oblique or the cut is curved, duplicate the allowances with non-woven tape. We do the same with thin and knitted (stretching) fabrics.

How to sew a zipper into the side seam of a dress cut off at the waist - video

Sewing a hidden zipper into any product is not so difficult if you know some tricks and secrets. Guided by the recommendations described, everyone can easily do this.

The skirt is the most ancient and feminine item in the wardrobe of women of all ages. Skirts often use zippers. In this article, we will tell you different options for how to correctly sew a zipper into a skirt so that the product looks beautiful and neat.

How to sew a hidden zipper to a skirt

If you are an inexperienced seamstress, then it is best to sew the zipper into the back seam of the skirt, because if you sew the zipper into the side seam incorrectly, the fabric may warp. The back seam is the most symmetrical, it is much easier to sew a zipper into it than into the side seam.

1. First you need to lay out the product on a flat surface with the wrong side.
2. We unzip the zipper and apply one side to the seam so that its teeth are close to the edge of the fabric.
3. We attach the zipper with needles from top to bottom and bast.
4. After that, you need to attach the second side of the zipper, but you need to start from the bottom, from the beginning of the zipper, where the slider is located. The fabric should not stretch or deform.
5. Only after that we sew the zipper to the skirt, be sure to tie the knots by hand. Since the zipper is hidden, it is first necessary to bend the seam allowances, iron, and only after that attach the zipper so that the teeth fit snugly against the edge of the fabric.

How to sew a zipper into a skirt with a belt

If the belt has an additional fastener - a button or hooks - then the zipper should begin exactly where the belt ends. If the belt does not involve additional fasteners, then you need to sew in a zipper, starting from the top point of the product. In this case, as in all other cases, you need to sew a zipper from top to bottom. Then the fastener will not deform the fabric, and it will be convenient to sew it on.

After you have attached the zipper, its upper edges must be hidden under the belt. They can be rolled up and additionally stitched. In other cases, strips of fabric are applied on top so that the zipper does not scratch the back.

How to sew a zipper into a skirt without a belt

If there is no belt in the skirt, then you need to choose a tight zipper that will not unfasten. At the same time, the algorithm of the final actions when sewing a skirt develops differently. First you sew in the zipper, and only after that you fold the top edge of the skirt and sew it on a typewriter so that the zipper fabric is hidden under the fabric. In this case, the teeth of the zipper should be strictly on the same level with the edge of the skirt.

How to sew a zipper into a skirt without a seam

Sewing a zipper into a skirt without a seam is very simple. But, the main thing is that in the lower part of the zipper, where the clasp ends and the skirt begins, the seams should be neatly applied. The video instructions below describe in detail this way use of zippers in skirts. At the same time, there are ways to sew a zipper into a skirt carefully and manually, without using a sewing machine.

How to sew a zipper into a skirt pleat

A pleated skirt requires more work and skill. It is especially important to carefully sew the zipper into the pleat of the skirt.

How to sew a side zipper into a skirt

If you want to place a zipper on the side of the product, then you need to know a few nuances. The back seam of the skirt is located symmetrically, and the zipper in it stretches evenly in both directions. If the zipper is located in the side seam, and it is sewn illiterately, then the product may squint, the fabric itself may gather in waves, and the zipper does not fit snugly against the body. These nuances are very striking and spoil the silhouette. Therefore, lightning - the final element of the skirt - must be given maximum attention.

The video provides detailed instructions.

How to sew a metal zipper into a skirt

Metal zippers are used not only as a functional part of the product, but also as a decoration. At the same time, metal zippers are both sewn into the skirt and sewn on top. The color of the zipper can contrast with the color of the main fabric. If you are a beginner seamstress, then it is best to choose the color of the zipper to match the product and sew the zipper from the wrong side.

To do this, it is necessary, as when working with a conventional zipper, to pre-sweep the clasp and the product. The main thing is that the teeth of such a lightning were visible from the front side, so it is better to retreat 0.5 centimeters from the edge of the fabric.

How to sew a zipper into a skirt - video

The video clearly shows all the nuances that must be taken into account when working properly with lightning.

This type of fastener is used in dresses, skirts, blouses. This fastener looks very good on products made of delicate fabrics.

To attach the fastener, you will need a special one-sided sewing machine foot (usually included with the sewing machine).

1. Open the hidden zipper and press down on the helix so you can see the "seam line" between the webbing and the helix.
Place the open zipper with the outer side on the front side of the cut to which the clasp is attached, along.
To sew the fastener exactly along the marked seam line, you need to determine the interval between the edge of the zipper tape and the fabric cut: the width of the seam allowance minus 1 cm. lace width = distance to the cut of the fabric.

Upper end of the ribbon zippers pin (baste) to the fabric at the desired distance, which we determined above.
The lower end of the zipper should protrude beyond the lower end of the slit (approx. 2cm).
2. Place the sewing machine foot over the zipper so that the helix is ​​positioned under the notch on the foot to the right of the needle.

Sew the zipper from the top end to the cut mark.

Close the zipper.

3. Place the second zipper tape with the outer side on the front side of the fabric along the other edge of the cut and pin (baste) the upper end of the tape.
Open the zipper again.

Place the sewing machine foot over the zipper so that the helix is ​​positioned under the notch of the foot to the left of the needle.
Sew the tape from the top end to the cut mark.
Close the zipper.
From the wrong side, iron gently.

4. Next, sew the seam below the zipper cut mark, turning the lower loose end of the zipper over for seam allowances and starting the seam as close as possible to the last stitches of the zipper joining seams.
Seam allowances need to be ironed out.
Don't forget to overcast the seam allowances.

Depends on the accuracy of the secret fastener appearance products. The more carefully you perform this operation, the better and more beautiful your product will be.

Therefore, take each step slowly, but in any case, there is a convenient device for correcting inaccuracies, which is called a ripper. If something doesn't work, open the seam and do it again, until a brilliant result.

Next time - another easy way to sew in a zipper (not a secret one).

Good luck, Elena Krasovskaya: http://shjem-krasivo.ru/

We sew a regular zipper - 2 options

A simple zipper with plastic teeth is sewn, as a rule, into the fasteners of skirts, jackets, trousers. We will consider two options for the location of the zipper in the fastener - in the center of the cut and with an offset to one edge.

How to sew a regular zipper in the center

Rice. 1. Stitch the details of the product along the seam to the cut mark

Rice. 2. Stitch the open area under the zipper

Stitch the details of the product along the seam to the zipper cut mark. Sew the open area under the zipper with a 4 mm stitch utility stitch.

Rice. 3. Processing allowances with bias tape

Iron the allowances and work with an oblique trim or overlay seam.

Rice. 4. Pin the zipper with pins

Rice. 5. Baste the zipper with pins

From the wrong side, pin the zipper with pins in the center of the seam. Baste the zipper with basting stitches.

Rice. 6. Attach the zipper

Set to sewing machine special foot for attaching a zipper, attach the zipper to the right side of the product, laying a line at a distance of 0.5 cm from the middle of the seam. Delete the note.

Rice. 7. Unravel the auxiliary seam

Rice. 8. Finished zipper

Use a buttonhole ripper to open the utility stitch and remove the threads. Iron the product from the front side through a damp cloth.

How to sew a zipper with an offset to the edge

Rice. 1. Sew the seam to the zipper opening

Rice. 2. Iron the allowances

Stitch the details of the product along the seam to the zipper cut mark. Iron the allowances and process.

Rice. 3. Attach the zipper on the left side

Under the right side of the slit, baste one side of the zipper close to the teeth. Install a special foot for attaching a zipper, sew a zipper along the edge. To make it convenient to attach the zipper along the entire length, unzip it.

Rice. 4. Thread through the zipper dog loop

Rice. 5. Pull the thread and close the zipper

When there is 2 cm left to sew to the bottom of the zipper, close the zipper without interrupting the stitch and finish the stitch. To close the zipper, use our advice: thread the thread folded several times into the loop of the zipper dog, raise the foot, pull the thread and close the zipper.

Rice. 6. Finish stitching

Rice. 7. Pin the right side of the zipper

Rice. 8. Attach the right side of the zipper

Put the second side of the product on the zipper, pin it with pins and baste. Starting at the bottom, sew a short horizontal stitch, then turn the product 90 degrees and continue stitching, sew the left side of the zipper. Sew at a distance of 0.6-0.7 cm from the center.

Rice. 9. Bottom part attached zipper

Rice. 10. Lightning in finished form

The finished zipper is shown in Fig. 10.

HOW NEEDED AND BEAUTIFUL TO SEW A ZIPPER

There are many ways to sew a zipper, I want to suggest trying one of them - not difficult to perform, but with an unusual order of operations.

Mark with soap the line of stitching the seam in which there will be a zipper and chop off the details of the product with pins.

Lay a line along the intended line with the largest stitch.

This seam at the very end of the work will need to be removed.

Iron the seam allowances.

Pin one part of the zipper with the right side to the allowance, retreating with teeth one millimeter from the seam.

Use the single-sided foot to sew a line, stepping back from the teeth of the zipper by 2 millimeters.

Fasten the zipper and fold over to the other side. Pin with pins to a width of 5-7 millimeters.

Lay a line, stepping back from the fold by 1-2 millimeters.

Unscrew the zipper on the allowance and pin the other side of it with pins.

Lay a line along the second side of the zipper, retreating from the teeth by 2 millimeters.

Turn the part over to the front side and pin it with pins, marking the line of the finishing stitch.

Lay the finishing line, while capturing the zipper.

Iron the knot on the front side.

Delete the very first line.

Voila! Everything turned out nice and neat!

Another option for stitching a zipper:

Put one end of the zipper face to face on the product allowance, previously swept over (here in the photo it is not swept over, since the product was sewn on a lining) and stitch, stepping back from the edge of the zipper by 2 millimeters.

Unscrew the seam allowances on the product and lay a line along the product 1-2 millimeters from the fold.

Sew the other side of the zipper in the same way. In the photo under the zipper there is a detail of a valance or a strap.

And one more option. Here is the stitching of a zipper on the front side of the product.

You also need to grind the seam and iron the allowances. Overcast or edge over allowances if necessary.
Then turn the part over to the front side.

Apply a zipper and pin with pins over the seam of the connection parts.

Stitch the zipper with a zigzag or other finishing stitch.

The zip lock is a unique invention that has been used for many years in tailoring and repairing things. Today it is produced from the most different materials, for example, metal, plastic and polyester, in addition, can have different thicknesses and densities. Many craftswomen often encounter these products in the course of work, but not all of them know how to sew a zipper with their own hands correctly, which causes various difficulties. Today we will try to understand this problem, tell you how to choose the right lightning and install it.

Zipper-lock device

Before sewing a zipper on your own, you need to figure out what it consists of in order to install it correctly. This is very important, since its service life directly depends on the correct selection of this device.

The classic functional elegant lock consists of the following elements:

• Dog with a ring. This part moves along the line of the castle, disconnects and closes its links.
• teeth. Simply put, these are the links that provide the tightest possible connection.
• Braid or strip of matter. It is to it that the teeth are attached along the edge.
• Rivets. These special elements do not allow the pawl to slide off the end of the line. As a rule, there are two rivets on top, on detachable models there is only one on the bottom.

If you decide to sew a zipper with your own hands, then you should choose the appropriate option, depending on the type of fabric and the purpose of the clothing.

How to choose a zipper for a product?

Before you sew a zipper with your own hands, it is recommended to correctly determine the appropriate fastener option for a particular case.

Rules for choosing a zipper, depending on the purpose of clothing:

• For raincoats, windbreakers, dresses made of thin fabric, it is better to purchase synthetic or plastic fasteners. They are lighter, more flexible, not afraid of moisture, do not corrode, unlike raw metal products.
• Metal zippers are suitable for warm, heavy items, denim trousers, sports or outdoor clothing. They are characterized by high strength, all the teeth reliably interlock with each other, withstand maximum tension.
• Hidden zippers. Models with small elements made of synthetics and plastics are ideal for cases where you do not want locks to be visible.

Important! The secret option is more often used for women's clothing. But it is with him, as a rule, that the craftswomen have the largest number complexities. The hardest thing is to make the lightning really invisible, it should be located in the seam.

Features and methods of sewing in hidden zippers

Hidden fasteners must be sewn clearly and consistently, performing each step with high quality. It is important to securely fasten each element, work with the fabric as carefully as possible, while taking into account its main parameters. For example, in too thin materials, the edges crumble, due to which finished goods look ugly. Before you sew a hidden zipper with your own hands, you need to correctly determine the place to secure it.

There are several basic sewing methods:

• Front middle. These hidden fasteners are rare, more often they are placed on dresses with a detachable waist or on tops.
• In the side seam. In this case, it is important to be as careful as possible so that the barrel does not bend after the zipper is sewn on.
• Centered on the back. This is a universal option, it can be used for dense and thin fabrics.

Important! If you know how to stitch hidden zippers correctly, then it is not at all necessary to select them according to the color of the product, since they are completely recessed into the seam and look like its continuation. The main feature of such locks is invisibility on the front side of the line. Before buying a part, you must first measure the cut under it. Ideally, it should be 2 cm longer.

How to sew a zipper yourself?

Starting sewing in a zipper yourself, make sure that all sections are open.

Important! Remember about allowances - you need to retreat at least 1.5 cm in width.

The product must first be marked with chalk, a bar of soap or a disappearing marker.

Perform the stitching of a zipper according to the following scheme:

1. Open the fastener, put it on the allowances of the product with its front side along one edge of the cut. At the same time, carefully make sure that all the teeth coincide with the axis of the middle of the back.
2. Turn the allowances to the wrong side, press them. Determine the distance from the edge of the ribbon to the middle cut of the fabric.
3. Bend the teeth with your finger so that the place for the seam becomes visible between the braid and the teeth.
4. Pin the top edge of the ribbon to the seam allowance. That is, step back a small distance from the top cut.
5. Determine the end of the tape from below - it should slightly protrude beyond the bottom edge of the cut.
6. Position the foot of the machine above the tape, while the spiral should be located under the notch, to the right of the needle.
7. Sew the zipper from the top to the mark, close it. Finish stitching when the foot touches the pawl.
8. Position the second side of the ribbon facing the seam allowance on the outside of the fabric. Pin the top edge of the ribbon with a pin. Open the structure again.
9. Place the machine foot over the tape again, only now the spiral should be on the left side of the needle under the notch.
10. Fix the tape along the cut from the top cut to the mark. Close the lock.
11. Indent down from the mark on the cut, unscrew the free lower end of the lock on the seam allowances.
12. Start the seam as close as possible to the last stitch on the sew-in seam. The line should overlap the zipper stitching line and be located on the left at a distance of 1 mm. Hold the end of the castle constantly.
13. Cut off the ends of the tape, make a fringing with a fabric, fasten the ends of the stitching for reliability with a double knot.
14. On the finished section, iron the allowances.

How to sew a hidden fastener into a product made of thin fabric?

When choosing where the zipper will be located, remember that it looks different on fabrics with different characteristics:

• It is better not to insert the fastener in the side seam into a light, thin, delicate dress, otherwise it will lead him. In such cases the best option is the center line on the back.
• If the material is airy and loose, then it is better to additionally strengthen the seam allowances with non-woven fabric.
• It is not recommended to sew zippers into chiffon products in one layer, because the fastener can pull the fabric away or become noticeable. In such situations, a special lining is needed.

You will need to follow these steps to sew a zipper into a particularly thin material:

1. Fold the parts from the main light fabric to each other with the wrong sides, stitch, stepping back 7 mm from the cut.
2. Bring the line to the end of the tape to the very edge of the allowance.
3. Cut the allowances, iron the seam so that they remain inside.
4. Lay the line straight, retreating 7 mm from the edge, complete it 3 cm beyond the first line.
5. Iron the seam allowances in one direction, and iron above the seam.
6. On the cover, make the same seam, at the end of which there should be a transverse bartack.
7. Notch the seam allowance on the lining to join the two fabrics.

footage

Now you know how to sew a zipper with your own hands. With a little practice, in the future you will be able to independently sew any locks on skirts, dresses or products from any fabric.

Conduct a series of fittings in order to accurately fit her fit to the figure, carefully stitch all the details of the skirt, but sewing a zipper in a skirt or dress does not work beautifully. Either you can see a hidden lightning, then one part of it has moved relative to the other, and so on.
Installing or replacing a zipper is always quite difficult, even if you have some experience. Often the quality of work depends on the material (fabric) from which the skirt, dress or trousers are sewn. The quality of the zipper tape, the presence of special paws and operations on your machine also affects.

This video shows how to sew a hidden zipper with a special foot.

In this article, we will share with you the secrets of how to sew a zipper correctly. various types, sew quickly and easily.
First, we will show in the photo and comment on how to sew an ordinary metal or twisted (spiral) zipper onto a skirt or trousers without sweeping and unnecessary operations. Then you will learn the steps for installing a hidden zipper using a special foot. And finally, we will give you some tips on how to properly replace a broken zipper (tractor) in a jacket.

In this video you will see the technology of sewing a zipper into leather clothes. If you are fond of tailoring leather products, subscribe to our channel and you will learn a lot of useful tips.

Twisted and metal short zippers are used in Lately infrequently, they are successfully replaced by hidden zippers. But for some clothes, especially children's, it is more practical to install just such zippers. They are more reliable and somewhat easier to sew.

First you need to stitch the area (two parts) where the zipper will be installed with a wide stitch and without bartacks. This line will be removed in the future. Then you need to iron this seam on both sides and preferably with steam.

Now you need to change the regular foot to the zipper foot and sew on the zipper tape on both sides, as shown in this photo.
This method will provide you with an even and neat sewing of a zipper, without basting a lock and other operations.

All that remains is to undo the temporary line, iron this area well and make a finishing line on the front side of the skirt or trousers.

The finishing line is best done with the zipper closed and with a foot designed for sewing on the zipper.
Of course, you can sew a zipper in another way, but for beginners this technique is simple and straightforward.

How to sew a large zipper into a jacket (tractor)

Replacing a zipper in a jacket is fundamentally different from installing a zipper in a skirt, dress or trousers. Since the jacket usually has a lining, all the "nuances" and mistakes are hidden inside the jacket. This greatly simplifies the process of sewing in a zipper. Nevertheless, the technology for replacing a zipper in a jacket is quite complicated, it requires endless sweeping and checking the coincidence of the neckline, waist, pockets, etc. It is enough to slightly pull one side of the zipper and in the finished form it will “skew” the entire lock, and such a defect cannot be to correct.

Try to always stitch on the wrong side of the jacket (lining), and be sure to mark the front side of the jacket and zipper tape with marks or notches. Then, when sewing in a zipper, you will be able to control the displacement of the lock relative to the marks on the jacket and, if necessary, correct it.

To pass this section, you need to raise the foot, advance the slider and then continue to sew further. In some cases, you can even pull it out from under the paws.

If you attached the zipper with a special foot, then it is better to do the finishing line with a regular foot, and this line must be done on the wrong side. An experienced seamstress does this operation without sweeping, but we advise you to sweep anyway.
The seamstress pulls the lining to the left, and adjusts the front fabric (pressed in advance) exactly along the edge of the teeth. And as a result, without basting with threads, it is possible to sew a zipper with one line evenly and accurately. The advantage of this method is also that there is no fabric landing on the front side, and all the excess can be dispersed (stretched) over the lining.

This is how beautifully the stitching will go along the front side of the jacket if you learn how to sew a zipper with your own hands.

This video demonstrates how to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt or dress. The video is in English, but you can turn on subtitles in your preferred language.