Illustrated sewing guide, master class

In order to create a ball gown, a lady's dress from another era (for example, a costume of a historical character), a puffy dress of a princess, maid of honor or a queen, you need an underskirt that gives the dress the necessary shape. The proposed article will help you sew such a skirt yourself. The work will take time, but even a novice seamstress will cope with this task if he follows the included instructions.

Before you start sewing, you need to decide what silhouette you want to recreate and what shape the petticoat should be.

1. Silhouette "with elbows".
In the section, the skirt has an oval section, at the sides it greatly expands, in front and behind it looks flat.

2. Rococo silhouette.
In the section, the skirt has a round section, front and back looks equally magnificent.

3. Silhouette "neo-baroque".
From the front, the skirt looks wide, but not fluffy. In profile, it looks like a "high chair".

4. Silhouette "Empire".
Flared skirt, high waistline. For such a dress, an additional underskirt is not used.

To give skirts exquisite shapes in different centuries, fashionistas used special devices. Let's dwell on them in a little more detail. So:

Bustle(from fr. tournure- "posture, demeanor") - an element of clothing, a removable device in the form of a pillow, which was placed by the ladies behind the dress just below the waist. The bustle was tied to the waist with a ribbon.

(fr. panier- "basket") - a frame made of willow or metal rods, worn as a separate element under the dress, but over the lower (underneath) skirt.

fizhmy(from him. fischbein- "fish bone, whalebone") - the same as pannier, a frame made of whalebone. This name was common in Russia and Germany.

Crinoline (crinis+flax, hair + linen), - this was originally the name of a hard linen or cotton fabric with a base of horsehair, then they began to call it a rigid structure necessary to give the skirt the desired shape, similar to a pannier, but much more voluminous.

Now let's look at how to make these elements of the costume.

For work you will need: tulle or any other light fabric, regiline, synthetic winterizer, cotton flap.

PANIE
Step 1.
Cut out skirt details from tulle BUT and B. The shape of these parts is shown in the diagrams below, it is either a rectangle or a trapezoid. The skirt will be heavily gathered at the waist. The dotted line indicates the place where the picking is performed. The dimensions of the pieces depend on the desired length of the skirt (piece height) and the desired ruffles (piece width).

Step 2
Sew reguilin to the details of the skirt. Attachment points are shown in the diagrams. Regilin should end about two centimeters from the seams of the stitching parts, because. it doesn't stick to the seam.

Step 3
Details stitch together. Gather the top of the skirt (at the waist) to give the skirt the desired shape.

Step 4
Cut out a belt from cotton fabric, stitch it to the skirt. Insert an elastic band into the belt. The skirt should be strong enough to hold on to the waist. Pannier is ready!

Consider the pannier shapes used for various silhouettes.

Pannier for the silhouette "with elbows".

Front and side views are shown.

Part A is a rectangle. Two parts are cut out: front and back. Both practically do not fit.

Detail B - trapezoid. Two parts are cut out: on the left and right side. Both are heavily gathered at the waist.

Pannier for the Rococo silhouette.

Shown are side views and the finished skirt.

Part A is a rectangle. One detail is cut out. The skirt is sewn according to the "tatyanka" principle, while it is strongly gathered at the waist.

Pannier for the neo-baroque silhouette.

Side view and finished skirt shown.

Part A is a rectangle. Cut out one piece for the front of the skirt.
The width of part A is 1/4 of the width of the skirt. She leans in a lot.

Detail B - trapezoid. One detail is cut out: left side, back, right side.
The width of part B is 3/4 of the width of the skirt. The detail is strongly gathered in the waist area.

BUSTLE
Step 1.
Cut skirt details from any fabric BUT(1 piece) and B(2 pcs.). The shape of these parts is shown in the diagrams, part A is a "slice", part B is a crescent or semi-oval.

Step 2
Fold the details on the wrong sides. Stitch together, leave a small area uncovered in the seam. Unscrew the product.

Step 3
Fill the bustle with padding polyester (or padding polyester, or any other filler). Sew up the open section of the seam by hand.

Step 4
Sew a ribbon (strings) to the product. Tournament is ready!

Consider the forms of bustles used for various silhouettes.

Bustle for the silhouette "with elbows".

A side view, a front view, and a view of the finished product are shown.

Detail A - a slice, its width is approximately 3 cm, the length is equal to half the waist circumference minus 2 cm.

Detail B is a crescent, its width is equal to half the circumference of the waist, its height is from 10 to 15 cm, depending on your desire.
Two parts A and four parts B are cut out. Two bustles are sewn on the left and right sides. The tie is common.

Tournure for the Rococo silhouette.

Detail B - semi-oval, its width is 3/4 of the waist circumference, height is from 15 to 20 cm, depending on your desire.

Two details B and one detail A are cut out. One bustle with a tie is sewn.

Bustle for the neo-baroque silhouette.

A side view, a front view, and a finished product view are shown.

Detail A is a slice, its width is approximately 3 cm, the length is 3/4 of the waist circumference minus 2 cm.

Detail B is a crescent, its width is 3/4 of the waist circumference, its height is from 10 to 15 cm, depending on your desire.

Two parts B and one part A are cut out. One bustle with a tie is sewn.

CRINOLINE
Step 1.
Cut out a half-sun skirt from tulle (or 3/4 sun, but in this case you get a very voluminous skirt), depending on how fluffy the skirt you want to get. For more details on how to build a sun skirt pattern, see.

Step 2
Mark the lines dividing the height of the hem of the skirt into 3 parts (in the figure, lines 1, 2 and 3). Regilin is sewn along these lines and frills are sewn on. If you need a very fluffy and tight skirt, you need to draw additional lines(dotted lines in the figure).

Step 3
Sew reguilin along the marked lines, not reaching 2 cm to the cut.

Step 4
From tulle or lining fabric, cut out rectangles of the desired length (depending on the splendor of the frill) and a width equal to the distance between the drawn lines on the skirt, multiplied by 2.

Step 5
On the rectangle, draw a line two-thirds of the way up (see figure) and sew a line with a stitch width of 5 mm. Collect. Fold along the stitch line.

Step 6
Stitch the frills to the skirt, laying them so that the longer part of the frill is at the bottom. The figure shows skirts with three and six frills.

Step 7
Cut out a belt from cotton fabric, stitch it to the skirt. Insert an elastic band into the belt. The skirt should be held firmly enough at the waist. The crinoline is ready!

Consider the crinoline shapes used for various silhouettes.

Crinoline for a silhouette "with elbows".

Front view shown.

Ruffles are sewn in two tiers on the sides, taking up 1/4 of the width of the skirt on the right and 1/4 of the width of the skirt on the left.

Crinoline for Rococo silhouette.

Front view shown, side crinoline looks exactly the same.

3 or 6 tiers of frills are sewn, depending on the desire.

Crinoline for neo-baroque silhouette.

Side and front views are shown.

Ruffles are sewn on at the back, occupying either 3/4 or 2/3 of the width of the skirt.

Thus, we considered the possibility of creating silhouettes with three different ways. Bustle making is the fastest and most economical. It is more difficult to make a pannier. Crinoline is the most time-consuming and most costly option. Which option to use is up to you. In any case, we wish you success and the joy of creativity!

Author of text, drawings, diagrams:

Fluffy crinoline dresses give the girls a very sophisticated and romantic look. Most graduates and brides choose dresses with lush hems for special days. Girls in puffy dresses will undoubtedly become the queens of the ball - such outfits are easy to create at home in several ways.

You will need:

II. frame

IV. Needles

VI. Elastic

VII. Skirt type "Sun"

To begin with, let's answer the question, what is the name of the frame for the skirt - this is a crinoline, which became widespread in the 19th century.

The second powerful impetus for the development of fashion for puffy dresses was given by famous Hollywood actresses of the mid-50s of the last century. Today, the same retro dresses are popular, so huge rustling skirts are returning not only for secular evenings, but also for everyday use on the streets of the city. Such outfits have already flooded the shops, but you can also sew it yourself at home.

How to make a frame for a skirt

For a fluffy skirt, you will need a mesh, needles, threads, a frame and a blank in the form of an assembly skirt of the “semi-sun” or “sun” type.

The grid can be absolutely any, with or without a pattern. You can sew the mesh in the waist area on the verge of the bend of the dress and then give it a length suitable for growth.

This item is made of wire or crinoline. The latter material is ideal for adding splendor to the skirt of the dress. The shape is made based on your own needs and desires, depending on the future size of the dress.

In order to make a crinoline, plastic or metal hoops of different diameters are needed. The more hoops used, the more fluffy the skirt will be. You also need white tulle, wide ribbons and an elastic band.

From a white fabric 3 meters long, a "sun" type skirt is made. To do this, the fabric is folded in half and there are 2 wedges on it. Then the seam allowances are marked, the wedges are cut out, swept away and sewn on. The belt is made from rubber. It is important that the belt is neither tight nor loose. You need to sew it to the top of the skirt.

Final stage

After the manipulations, the skirt is turned inside out and fastened to the hoop of the smallest size at a distance of a third below the waist. Sewn on top decorative tape. The middle hoop is also fixed at a distance of 2/3 below the waist level and the largest in the hem area. They are also sheathed satin ribbon. After that, the skirt is turned inside out.

Upon completion of the complete manufacture of the frame and mesh, they are put on at the waist, and the prepared dress with a skirt is straightened at the top. The frame transforms the dress and gives the necessary splendor.

This post is for those mothers whose daughters want to flaunt in puffy dresses. Our Manyasha has a graduation from kindergarten. The most beautiful dress from a jacquard-type fabric, a friend gave us. But without the crinoline, it does not look at all. I decided to make it myself, because. On the eve of graduation, I could not find a single children's crinoline in numerous salons of the city (although the price of 200 rubles suited me perfectly). I shoveled information from the Internet, even tried to make a crinoline from sticks for balloons (they began to break, separate, so this idea was a complete fiasco). As a result, I did this (for a height of 122 cm).
Materials.
* A piece of fabric 2 m x 70 cm (I didn’t take a picture, because I did the MK after sewing)
* Adhesive tape (preferably narrow)
* Linen gum
* Rigelin, which I bought in a store with fabric and accessories (it took me about 5 meters at 15 rubles per meter). Rigelin (see photo) - a plastic flat tape 5 mm wide. There are other types, but this one is the toughest.

At the heart of the crinoline is the "Tatyanka" skirt. It is easy to sew, and the rigid contours of the regiline rings will be smoothed out by the folds of the fabric, and the crinoline will not be clearly visible under the dress.
We sew the fabric into a "pipe" 70 cm long. We make markings for the drawstrings, where the rings and elastic will be inserted. I have this markup, and you look at what form of crinoline you need. In principle, there are 2-3 rings in purchased crinolines. But I wanted a more reliable design with a shape that is somewhat rounded at the waist (and not "bell", as in most finished products). That's why I have 4 rings.

I sewed the upper and lower drawstrings according to scheme 1, the middle ones - according to scheme 2. Ie. individual strips were not cut and sewn separately. Be sure to leave about 7 cm of the drawstring unsewn for inserting the regilin and connecting its ends. The width of the finished drawstring is about 1 cm.

The base is stitched. We insert rings from regiline. I had the following sizes: 93 cm, 103 cm, 133 cm, 163 cm. 3 cm were added to connect the ends of the regilin. She did this as in the diagram, i.e. one end must overlap with the other by at least 3 cm. I fasten it by wrapping it with tape, capturing not only the "overlap" itself, but also the sections behind it (in the diagram from arrow to arrow). Carefully sew up the hole in the drawstring. And so all 4 rings. We insert an elastic band into the upper drawstring. Carefully straighten the folds on the rings.

Balloon stick crinoline

After searching for a suitable crinoline, we decided to make it ourselves and only because we needed a very fluffy 5-ring skirt. As always, we don't have what we want.

The crinoline itself is made of 6 wedges, the height of the wedge is 1 m, sewed strips of fabric in rings in 5 rows and 12 vertical stripes. She sewed rings on the inside, vertical stripes on the outside, making a pass at the intersection.

They didn’t want to use the wire, because the skirt just bends and is very heavy, but you have to dance. From everything you can think of, they went through everything, it was necessary to be cheap, affordable and, moreover, very convenient. And caught my eye balloon, my daughter gave it to me, but you couldn’t throw it away. Then it dawned on us: to take a package of sticks and use it, and so there were strips for 5 rings and 12 vertical ones. I scribbled everything evenly, sewed on a belt for an elastic band, prepared the sticks themselves and sat down to work.

The sticks are very well cut with simple wire cutters to get the right size to assemble the ring. We carefully cut the tips, remove the socket itself, also remove the burr and get an excellent connecting nut. On the vertical strips, insert the sticks (butt-joining with a nut), cut off the excess and sew up the entrance. Now we just butt the sticks and push them through the ring. When we have gone completely in a circle, we bring it together and cut off the extra end, put on our nut and pull the strips inward.

The crinoline turned out to be very light, it bends, recovers and keeps its shape, even if it breaks, repairs can be done quickly. The most important thing in a package of 100 pieces is the price of 40 rubles. I immediately made a supply for myself, the first dress is there, and after it the second will be.

Crinoline is a capricious thing. But today we will learn how to sew a crinoline with our own hands and see a pattern for it.

1. We schematically draw ourselves on a sheet. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the height of the heel, then the exact height, as well as the maximum length of the side seam
("length from waist to floor, without heels") In the drawing, this is AC. Then we measure DC - these are those 5 centimeters, thanks to which the dress is not carried on the ground.

2. Then we draw a skirt of the form that we want. Then we draw a straight line FD.
This is our full length petticoat. If you want the underskirt to be shorter than the top, then you need to take this into account and make the total length of this underskirt smaller. This drawing shows the full length of the BD petticoat. Now mark the segment ED. Here it is 5 cm. This is done so that in the future the hoop is not visible through the skirt.

3. Now we mark the segment BG. The G-spot is the beginning of the expansion of our skirt.
The size of the BG segment depends on the model of the dress. Now we divide the segment GE into 4 equal parts (since our skirt has 4 hoops) Draw horizontal lines from these points. These are the radii of our hoops.
For example, one of them is HI. We measure them very accurately.

4. Now we substitute the data into the formula. L=2*3.14*R
L is the length of the hoop
* is to multiply
R is our radius
And so we get the length of the hoops.
I was cut into hoops in the store directly according to these data.
Now we make the skirt itself.

1. We measure the length of the skirt between the hoops (in the drawing it is 20 cm). And we cut out 4 strips from the lining fabric 20 cm wide + seam allowances, and a length corresponding to the length of the hoops + seam allowances.

2. We measure the segment KG. We substitute in our formula and cut out a rectangle with a width of BG and the length obtained by the formula + allowances for seams and for inserting an elastic band.

3. Now we sew the parts, picking up the top of the strips to the length of the bottom of the next upper strip. We insert an elastic band on the belt, and also for "confidence" we sew two ties.

4. At the bottom of the 4 strips, we sew on strips of fabric for inserting hoops or sew on allowances and then you can insert a hoop into them.

5. We cut a rigid mesh with a strip width of + 5 cm. The drawing is 25 cm. It is done so that the mesh covers the hoop. Sew a mesh at the top of each stripe. Embroider the length of the mesh so that it is 3 times longer than the strip, i.e. if the strip is 1 meter, then the length of the grid is 3 meters.

And then we collect the mesh up to 1 meter and sew it to the strip.