Light, bravo! While I was swaying and was only going to sew such a uniform, you beat me to it. To be honest, I was going to make the same topic, but I didn’t have time all the time. I recently found a doll with the same body as your Smile, but the head is different. Here is the same as the dolls below.
She seemed very funny to me, well, very much. I began to look for information about her, and found the same dolls released for the 40th anniversary of the Victory in 1985 and even a little later for the 45th anniversary. I also wanted to sew such a costume, but of course with such skill as you, I could not do it, and besides, I definitely won’t leave the doll for myself. Therefore, it makes no sense to make a separate topic. Then allow me to supplement your topic with photographs from the Internet, I hope their authors will not be offended, I apologize in advance. What factory produced such dolls in soldier's uniform, I don't remember.

here is the view from the back




And I didn’t sew such a costume on my doll for the simple reason that she has hair Pink colour. I don't like it at all, and the doll itself is not to my taste. Here is her photo

And this is with a similar smile.


As you can see, their bodies are the same, but their heads are different. And I understand that your Smile has drawn eyes. And my false sleeping and blinking. I love her luxurious hair. I want to make her Little Red Riding Hood. Well, here, almost a topic in a topic ... I apologize if it's inappropriate.

Several ways to build a pattern of a soldier's tunic for a child and detailed process her tailoring.

This year, the whole country is actively preparing for the Victory Day. In kindergartens and schools, children are told about the war and the significance of victory for the whole people. We will definitely go to the parade on May 9 and congratulate the veterans. We also decided to arrange a thematic photo shoot with the children, so we needed a soldier's tunic as an element of a military uniform.

Step by step master class how to sew a children's tunic with your own hands with photos.

For sewing a military tunic you will need:

1m thick fabric (I have batiste)

6 buttons with a star (can be purchased at the army store)

2 simple buttons for shoulder straps

Construction of a gymnast pattern.

There are several simple ways make a pattern of a children's gymnast.

- based shirt, which fits the size. You just need to take all the details from the finished product. You will only have to carve out decorative elements such as shoulder straps and a pocket flap. How to re-cut the pattern from the finished product without tearing it

If there is no suitable shirt, then you can do without T-shirt. But keep in mind that the T-shirt is knitted and stretches well, and the fabric for the tunic is not so elastic, so you need to add a couple of cm in width.

By finished pattern . To simplify the construction of a tunic pattern, there is a pattern for a height of 95 and 110 cm.

Below shows additional details of the flap on the pocket and shoulder straps.

Sewing a military tunic for a child.

We cut out a rectangle of 12 * 3 cm in size from paper. We apply it to the middle of the front and circle it. We do not throw away the strip of paper itself.

Cut in the center and to the corners as shown in the photo.

We make strips for the collar, for this we cut out two strips of fabric measuring 16 * 7 and bend as shown in the photo. For easier bending, we use a rectangle that has already been cut out of paper.

We make two strips of the same size.

We pin the straps to the gymnast on both sides exactly along the drawn lines, leaving 3.5 cm below for the hem.

Check that the planks are evenly spaced and the bottom one is completely covered by the top one.

Sew on sewing machine. You can see that there is an unused “triangle” in the middle, you don’t need to cut it off.

Bring the ends of both planks forward. Shorten the bottom a little. "Triangle" also bend to the front side. But the photo shows a front and back view.

Beautifully bend the tip, sew along the contour and criss-cross.

Decorative elements for a gymnast.

We will not make pockets, we will only make valves for them.
Cut out a pentagon from the fabric, leaving allowances for the seams. We sew along four sides, then turn it inside out, iron it and sew again along the edges.

In the same way we make shoulder straps.

We mark the places for sewing pockets. First sew upside down, then fold down and stitch again.

We fold the back and in front of the front sides inward and sew along the shoulder seams.

Sew shoulder straps on the front side along the line of the armhole.

We sew the top of the sleeve and slightly gathered it so that it sits better on the shoulder.

We sew the sleeves to the gymnast by matching the centers.

The cuffs on the sleeve can not be done, but with it the tunic looks more spectacular, so it’s better to spend half an hour of your time on the cuffs.

We make cuffs in the same way as a collar, but we use a paper rectangle 8 * 1 cm.

Sew the strips and match them together.

We bend the tip and sew along the contour.

After sewing in the cuff straps, we sew the tunic along the side seam.

The gymnast must have a stand-up collar. In the original, it is cut out in an arc, but for a product of such a small size and not a high stand, you can cut an even strip. The width of the strip for the collar should be 2 times the desired collar height + 1 cm for the seams. Those if you want a 2.5 cm drain collar. Then the width of the strip should be 6 cm.
Sew on the neckline.

We check that in places of overlap everything converges.

Fold inward and stitch. Stand collar is ready.

In the same way we finish the cuffs with the only difference that we make folds on the cuffs.

The military tunic for the child is ready, it remains only to hem the bottom, make loops and sew on buttons.

So the gymnast will look with a belt. A belt buckle can also be purchased at an army store (price 180r).

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We found the most accurate cut of a soldier's tunic in a memo on sewing a Red Army cotton tunic published by GIZLEGPROM in 1943. This is the best document that could be found on the Internet. The memo contains tables for constructing drawings of the structures of a soldier's tunic for all heights and sizes, and you can still choose the fullness (n - normal, w - wide). This brochure is a complete description and specification for the tailoring of the 1938 tunic. The memo contains a description of the tunic, specifications, tolerances, manufacturing technology, finished measurements, instructions for drawings, product sketches, technical drawings and cut drawings, as well as acceptance rules, marking and packaging of the finished product.

Together with the students, we sewed five sets of uniforms according to these drawings - two for men and three for women (different heights and sizes) and I can say that the accuracy of the patterns is a complete delight! I am laying out all the pages of the memo in the order in which they should be, in my opinion.

Suit fabric “GRASS”, Linen-100%, width 150 cm, 1 meter 440 rubles

You can buy fabric for a soldier's tunic and soldier's riding breeches in our online store

Delivery by mail to any region.

Important information! The length of the tunic should be below the line of the hips, as shown in figure No. 1 from the memo. At present, very often one can see tunics very shortened, barely coming out from under the belt. We encountered such a problem when we took a tunic in the House of Culture as a sample. The tunic was real, but very short. And only when we made patterns according to the memo, it became clear that something was wrong. And then it became clear that the bottom of the tunic was constantly frayed from time to time and it was constantly cut off and re-sewn, so the tunic became very short - it could hardly be tucked under the belt. Such incidents of form can be seen in modern films. I consider films as standards: S. Bondarchuk “They Fought for the Motherland” and S. Rostotsky “The Dawns Here Are Quiet”.

It's a shame and a pity to see how the modern generation wears the old military uniform: with unbuttoned collars; trousers of a pipe; tunics gathered around the body in folds, like skirts, girls have short, tight-fitting, above-the-knee skirts, etc. . I want more respect for the past and our history. I don't want to see clowns in uniform!

First page contains a description of the model of a soldier's tunic, a size table and the beginning of the technical conditions. At the top is a stamp by whom and when (December 15, 1938) the model of a military tunic was approved - the shirt of the summer privates of the Red Army.

…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

Second page contains a continuation of the technical conditions: tolerances and recommendations for tailoring. A very interesting point is that the number of stitches in 5 cm of a seam should not be less than or exceed 20-25.

……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….

Third page contains specifications for the processing of slats and pockets.

The interest of the people in the events of the Second World War is growing ever stronger. On the holiday of May 9, all schoolchildren and children preschool age they put on military uniforms and pay tribute to the memory of the heroes who once liberated the whole world from German invaders, participating in parades and arranging entire performances on this topic in schools and kindergartens. There are also military-patriotic reconstruction clubs, where people try to recreate the events, life and clothes of that time as accurately as possible.

Therefore, this article will focus on the main detail of the military uniform of that time - the tunic. Here, the pattern of the tunic and its tailoring will be considered in detail.

Also in modern fashion, many designers often use such a style as military. Therefore, the WWII tunic pattern will come in handy for you not only to create the image of a soldier during the Great Patriotic War, it can be used as the basis for a stylish shirt, jacket or light jacket.

Gymnast for a boy

To get a tunic for a girl, a pattern is optional. If you don’t have time or just don’t want to build a pattern, you can take all the elements from the finished shirt right size. You will only have to lengthen the cuff pattern by a couple of cm and redo the collar a little.

Of course, if you are not interested in the exact authenticity of this outfit, it will be enough to buy a shirt and change its “native” buttons on it to buttons with stars and sew on shoulder straps.

However, the similarity of tunics made by any of the above methods will be approximate.

Much better and closer to the original will be a military tunic, the pattern of which is made from A to Z.

Materials and tools

In order for you to get a tunic pattern for a boy, you will need the following materials and tools.

• Centimeter.
• Chalk cutter or a small remnant.
• Pencil.
• Pattern.
• The paper on which the pattern will be built. Any paper of a suitable size will do, such as newspapers. However, it is better to use graph paper if the pattern of a tunic or any other more or less serious product is new to you.
• Threads of the right color.
• Sewing machine.
• Threads
• Ruler.
• Thick fabric (batiste is suitable).
• Buttons with a star - 6 pcs.
• Buttons for shoulder straps.

Taking measurements

So, you need a children's tunic. The pattern of this element of the WWII uniform requires the same measurements as a men's shirt. On many sites, measurements on patterns are indicated by abbreviations, which are not always clear to beginners in sewing. In this article, you will be able to decipher for yourself the designations of the measurements used for sewing children's and men's shirts and gymnasts.

When taking measurements, you should stand on the side of the person for whom you are going to sew a tunic. Using a centimeter, measure the following. Remember - the centimeter should not be stretched when measuring.

In order for your WWII tunic pattern to be flawless, you need to take the following measurements.

1. OSh - neck girth. The girth of the neck is needed in order to sew the collar of the correct diameter. Measure the neck in the place where the collar will begin (closer to the base of the neck), when measuring, substitute it under the centimeter so that the collar is not too tight and does not cause discomfort.
2. OG - chest circumference. These measurements are taken at the most protruding points of the chest.
3. OT - waist circumference. To determine the waist line, find the thinnest point between the last ribs and the beginning of the pelvic bone. Tie your waist with a string or elastic band. This will not only make it easier for you to determine the OG, but will also be useful for further taking measurements.
4. OB - hip circumference. This measurement is taken at the most protruding points of the buttocks.
5. SHG - chest width. To make it easier for you to measure the SH, insert rulers, wooden sticks or cardboard bookmarks as high as possible into the armpits. It remains for you to measure the distance from the highest point of one ruler to the highest point of the other ruler from the side of the chest. Do not remove the rulers (or whatever you put in your armpits), they will come in handy for removing the AL.
6. ШС - the width of the back. The width of the back is measured in almost the same way as the width of the chest, only from the side of the chest. Measure the distance between the highest points of the rulers from the back.
7. ШП - shoulder width. Measure from the neck at the location you chose to measure the OR to the end of the shoulder (or where you want the shoulder seam to be).
8. DR - sleeve length. Measure the distance from the place where the shoulder seam will be located to the "knuckle" of the thumb.
9. OP - shoulder girth. Measure the girth of the tense biceps at the most protruding point.
10. OZ - wrist girth. This measurement is needed to determine the width of the bottom line of the cuff of the tunic. In this measurement, insert your thumb between the measuring centimeter and your wrist.
11. CI - product length. Measure the distance from the seventh vertebra to the most protruding point of the buttocks. Or from the seventh vertebra to the point where your product will end.

Building a pattern

Without high-quality fabric, you will not get a good children's tunic. The pattern in tailoring this element of the WWII uniform is also important.

Below are the increases and other additional calculations that the tunic requires. The pattern for a child and an adult is almost the same. To more clearly show how to build a pattern, let's take the following values ​​for clarity:

• OG - 45 cm.
• OSH - 16.5 cm.
• ШС - 19 cm.
• CI - 65 cm.
• SHG - 18 cm.
• DR - 55 cm.

Back and front of the tunic

• The depth of the armhole back of the tunic: OG / 3 + 8 = 45 / 3 + 8 = 23 cm.
• To the width of the back, you need to make an increase of 1.5 cm: 18 + 1.5 \u003d 19.5 cm.
• To find out the width of the armhole, you need OG / 3 = 45 / 3 = 15 cm.
• To determine the size of the tunic in the chest area, add 10: 45 + 10 = 55 cm to the exhaust gas.
• Side seam: 4 cm from the back.
• The sprout width is calculated as follows: OSH / 3 + 0.5 = 16.5 / 3 + 0.5 = 6 cm.
• To calculate the height of the sprout, divide the SR by 3: 6 / 3 = 2 cm.
• Shoulder back should be lowered by 3 cm.
• Shoulder protrudes 1 cm behind.
• A point is laid off from the chest line along the armhole of the back: armhole depth / 3 \u003d 23 / 3 \u003d 7.6.
• An auxiliary line of 3 cm is laid along the armhole of the back from the corner.
• At the bottom, the side of the back expands by 2 cm.
• In front, the width of the neck is equal to the width of the sprout: 6 cm.
• In front, the depth of the neck is equal to: the width of the sprout + 1 \u003d 6 + 1 \u003d 7 cm.
• Shoulder in front should be lowered by 5 cm.
• The front shoulder is equal to: the back shoulder is 1 cm.
• On the armhole of the shelf from the line of the chest upwards, set aside 1/3 of the depth of the armhole: 23/3 = 7.6 cm.
• An auxiliary line of 3 cm is laid along the armhole of the shelf from the corner.
• At the bottom, the side of the backrest expands by 4 cm.
• The front of the floor is extended by 3 cm.
• The front clasp expands by 30 cm.

Sleeve sizes

• DR = 55 cm.
• The width of the sleeve at the top can be calculated without taking measurements, simply by dividing the exhaust gas by 3 and adding 6: 45 / 3 + 6 = 21 cm.
• The width of the sleeve at the bottom is calculated as follows: OG / 3 + 3 = 45 / 3 + 3 = 18 cm.
• The height of the armhole is equal to the width of the armhole: 15 cm.

Cuff dimensions

• Cuff length: about 8 cm.
• Cuff width: wrist width + 2 cm.

Gate dimensions

• Gate width: 9 cm.
• Collar length: OSH + 6 = 16.5 cm.

Dimensions for the strip for cutting the clasp

• The top bar is 37 cm long.
• The top bar is 8 cm wide.
• The bottom bar is 32 cm long.
• The bottom bar is 3 cm wide.

Valve dimensions

• The length of the valve is 13.5 cm.
• The middle of the valve has a width of 7 cm.
• On the sides, the valve is 4 cm.

Pocket turning dimensions

• Turning length - 16 cm.
• Turning width - 6 cm.

Pocket burlap dimensions

• Burlap width - 16 cm.
• Burlap length - 40 cm.

The dimensions of the pocket itself

• Pocket length - 16 cm.
• Top pocket width - 15 cm.
• Bottom pocket width - 15 cm.
• Bottom pocket width - 16 cm.

A tunic pattern for a boy or girl is built in the same way as but the cuff width is increased by 2 cm and the gate is built in the form of a rectangle.

According to the measurements taken by you and calculated according to the above formulas, a sewing pattern is drawn on paper. According to these calculations, only a women's tunic cannot be sewn, the pattern in this case is slightly different.

cutting

When the pattern of a soldier's tunic is built, it must be transferred from paper to fabric and cut out. Before applying the pattern, the material must be thoroughly ironed or steamed. If you have chosen a fabric that may "shrink" after washing, it must be washed in very warm (not boiling water) water and dried before use.

When the preparation of the material is completed, you can proceed directly to cutting.

• Cut out a paper pattern, remember that you need to cut strictly along the pencil line, without going beyond it, otherwise ready product may be smaller or larger.
• Fold the fabric in half with the right side inward (so that you are drawing on the wrong side).
• Circle all the details, the back and front (halves on the paper pattern) of the tunic are applied to the fold of the fabric with an even side, so that after you cut and straighten this part of the pattern, you get a whole back and front.
• You should get: front part - 1 pc., back - 1 pc., 4 pocket flaps, collar - 1 pc., cuffs - 2 pcs., straps - 2 pcs.
• In our example, we will not sew pockets on the tunic, we will only sew valves to create the illusion of pockets. If you want to make real pockets, open burlap pockets as well.
• Cut out the circled parts, retreating 1 cm from the drawn lines (seam allowances).

Sewing

We have come to the most important part of the work. The tunic pattern is ready, all the details are cut out - you can start sewing.

First of all, all the details need to be swept away, and then sewed together.

• In pairs, we sweep the flaps of the pockets from the wrong side. We sew with a machine on sour cream, leaving only the upper side of the valves unstitched. We turn out the valves and, stepping back from the edge of 0.5 cm, sew the valves (except for the upper part) with a decorative stitch.
• We tack to the cut on the front of the tunic, and then sew on the straps - back and front.
• We sew the valves to the front of the product at chest level.
• We sweep the back and front of the product along the shoulder seams, and then sew the sour cream.
• Sew cuffs to the bottom in a straightened form. Sew one edge of the cuff on the wrong side of the sleeve. We apply the free edge of the cuff to the sewn edge and sew the folded element on the sides. We turn out the resulting design and, bending the free edge, attach it from the front side. We make a decorative stitch on the sides and upper edge of the cuffs. We make and process a loop.
• We baste the sleeves to the armholes, and then sew them there with the help of a typewriter and make a decorative stitch in a circle.
• Sew the edges of the sleeves and side seams.
• We iron and steam the product well.
• Sew buttons with stars to the placket and pocket flaps.

After each of the above points, the product must be ironed. Well ironed seams are the key to a quality sewn product.

In this way, a tunic for a girl can also be sewn, the pattern of both sexes is the same.