And then you can take on a more complex option - a shirt under a tie. They differ in that the summer shirt has a softer collar and the fabric for it can be taken brighter, on which errors in sewing are not so visible. In a classic shirt, the seams are made without overlock, with closed sections, the so-called. sewing seam. But we are learning, so let's start with simple seams. At the end of the master class, I will show the execution of sewing seams.))

The basis of the men's shirt for this master class was taken model 133 from Burda magazine 04/2006 and slightly changed, namely: the sleeve was lengthened, a cuff was added, for the collar with bones, the shape of its corners was changed to fit a wide tie knot.
The cuff can be removed from the finished shirt, as well as the length of the sleeve. The short sleeve lines of the pattern have been extended down. On the back half of the sleeve, about a third, a cut line for the cuff is drawn along the bottom. The length of the cut is 12-15 cm. The excess width of the sleeve is laid in folds before stitching the cuff.

In later issues of the magazine, there are both fitted and long sleeve shirts, so you can just take a different pattern to avoid rework.

Here are more options for shirts sewn according to this pattern:

Decating fabric

First you need to choose a fabric and decant it. Since the shirt is often washed, the fabric should be soaked in warm water, wrung out and dried. Then the cut in the wet state must be ironed from the inside to dry. The main thing is not to iron the fold of the fabric, otherwise you won’t get rid of it! Since we take adhesive calico of various densities to strengthen the collar, it must also be soaked in warm water and dried, because calico can shrink significantly when glued.

cutting


When cutting fabric into stripes, the fabric must be folded so that the strip matches the cross section of the cut, even if the edges of the fabric do not match!

The details of the coquettes, collar, racks and cuffs must be laid out not in a shared, but in a transverse direction in order to change the direction of the strip. For convenient cutting, it is better to make the patterns of these parts in their entirety, and not in half of the parts, as in a magazine.

Cut out the details of the shirt with allowances of 1.5 cm in all sections. Do not give a seam allowance along the long section of the double one-piece strip at the shelf!

Cut out small details (collars, stands, pockets, cuffs, straps and facings of sleeve cuts) with allowances of 1 cm.

Strengthening details


Strengthen the details of the collar, stand and cuffs with an adhesive pad. Glue calico is best suited for this purpose. It is sold in various hardness.

Depending on which collar is needed - hard or soft, choose the degree of rigidity of the adhesive pad.

For a soft collar, the lining is glued in one layer along with allowances for the part.
For an office shirt with a tie, you need a stiff collar.

For a rigid collar, the gasket is glued in two layers. The first layer of padding is glued to the detail of the upper collar with allowances, and the second - on top of the first layer of padding, but without allowances. You can glue the second time not the entire collar, but only the corners of the collar. It depends on the thickness of the adhesive pad. The thicker it is, the fewer layers are required.
Instead of the second hard layer of padding, it is possible to strengthen the ends of the collar with plastic bones - plates. In this case, drawstrings for bones must be made on the lower collar. In an industrially made shirt, the underwire may be hidden inside the collar.

Tip: since the collar is subjected to heavy loads during wear and washing, it is necessary to take a high-quality adhesive pad and iron it carefully, otherwise, after several washes, it will begin to partially move away or, as they say, bubble.

Tailoring: shirt placket
On the details of the shelves, process the slats. Most often in men's shirts there is a placket with two lapels, the so-called "double" placket and "male" placket.
Double plank
When cutting along the edge of the double plank, no seam allowance is given. The width of the bar is from 2 to 4 cm.

Iron the bar twice on the wrong side of the shelf and stitch to the edge (at a distance of 1 mm from the fold).

But the bar can not be adjusted.

In this case, it must be swept in the middle after ironing. In the future, loops and buttons will fix the bar and prevent it from turning away.

Men's plank

The “male” bar is made only on the left shelf under the loops. Under the buttons, in this case, they make the usual double bar. The width of the bar in the cut is 3-4 cm + 1 cm. Iron the bar 3-4 cm wide twice on the wrong side of the shelf, lay a line at a distance of 5 mm from the fold, then turn the bar back and iron it. The cut of the bar turned out to be stitched in its fold. It remains to stitch the second fold of the bar at a distance of 5 mm.

barrel shelf

Shown here are regular overlock seams. I will show the stitching seams at the end of the master class. They are more complex and require more accuracy and tailoring experience.)

Sew the barrel of the shelf to the shelf from the side of the barrel, overcast the allowances together and iron to the middle of the shelf.

Sew a shelf along the seam of attaching the barrel.

double coquette

The coquette can be either single (consisting of one part) or double. When sewing a shirt with a single yoke, the seam allowances for attaching the shelves and back are ironed onto the yoke. Finishing lines are laid along the yoke.

When sewing a double yoke, there is a little trick with which the seam allowances are, as it were, inside the yokes. How to do it? Very simple - you need to roll up the details of the shelves and the back with a wheel, then everything will work out! Since the cuts in this case are not processed with an overlock, they must be equalized, that is, cut to 5-7 mm so that they look more neat.

On one piece of the coquette, lay and chop the details of the shelves and back.

Shelves and back roll up on a yoke.

On top of the rolled parts, put the second yoke inside out.

Stitch the details of the coquettes, grabbing the shelves and backs lying between them. Trim allowances to 5-7mm.

Pull the shelves and back through the neck of the coquettes.

Iron the yokes and seams.

Sew yokes along the seams for attaching shelves and back, if provided for by the model. Sew together the cuts of the neck at the coquettes.

Sleeve

The sleeves in a men's shirt are sewn into the armholes until the side seams of the shirt and the seams of the sleeves are sewn.

Insert the sleeve into the armhole, matching the marks on the sleeve and armhole.

Sew the sleeve into the armhole from the side of the sleeve. Overcast the seam allowance and iron it on the armhole (on the shelves, yoke and back).

Sew the shirt along the armhole along the seam.

Fold together the sleeves and the side sections of the front and back, sew in one line, overcast the allowances together and iron on the back.

Cuff and sleeve slit



There are several ways to process the sleeve placket. We chose the simplest one (a description of other ways to process the male plank can be found in the specialized literature).
Cuffs can vary in shape - rounded, straight or with a beveled corner, like ours, as well as in height - one or two buttons. Despite this, their processing does not change.

Sleeve cut

On the back of the sleeve, mark a 14 cm long slit. Sew a placket along the slit from the greater part of the sleeve. The strap should be 4 cm longer than the cut. The width of the strap is 7 cm (2.5 cm in finished form).

Cut the cut, not reaching the edge of the line 1-1.5 cm. At the end of the cut, cut a triangle to the end of the line and on the other side of the cut.

Iron the long allowance of the bar onto the bar, and fold the other edge of the cut twice by 5 mm and stitch. The resulting triangle at the end of the cut is ironed up.


Iron the bar into the cut.
Iron the bar in half, overlapping the stitching of the bar with the fold.


Sew the fold of the bar next to the stitching seam (at a distance of 1 mm from the seam).

Fold the top edge of the plank into a corner.

Sew the corner of the placket onto the sleeve. The distance from the corner to the transverse line is 3-4 cm. From the inside of the sleeve, this line grabs the fold of a small corner at the top of the cut.

Cuff


Reinforce the outer part of the cuff with a gasket along with seam allowances. Iron the bottom edge of the reinforced cuff piece inside out.


Sew the ironed allowance on the cuff.


Fold the cuff pieces face to face and stitch.

Cut out the seam allowances in the corners and trim to 5 mm.


Unscrew cuff and iron.

Lay folds along the bottom of the sleeve. The rule is this - the fold of the fold from the front side looks at the cut. There can be several folds - two along the front (greater from the seam) part of the sleeve, and sometimes, if the sleeve is wide, another fold is added along the back of the sleeve.


Put the cuff on the sleeve with the non-reinforced side from the wrong side!. Stitch cuff to sleeve. Iron the allowances on the cuff.

Cover the stitching stitch with the fold of the outer cuff and stitch it to the edge (by 1mm).
Sew off the cuff.

pitted collar

Cut out the details from the adhesive pad: - along the upper collar and along the stand along with allowances - along the pattern (pattern) of the upper collar and stand without allowances or only along the corners of the upper collar without allowances.


Iron on the upper collar from the inside out, first the part of the gasket with allowances. On top of it - a piece without allowances and (or) on the corners of the collar, a piece of gasket without allowances. Carefully iron the gasket, hold the iron in one place for 20-30 seconds, then iron the part with steam. The item should be laid out in the unfolded form until completely dry and cool. In the same way, strengthen the part of the inner rack (the one that will be adjacent to the neck) with a gasket.

Cut the lower, unreinforced part of the collar along the upper and side cuts by 2-3 mm. Mark the middle of the upper and lower collars.
Collars before trimming must be exactly the same! If they are not, equalize them first.


Fold the collars face to face and chop, matching the cuts, thereby fitting the upper collar relative to the lower one.
Stitch the collars from the side of the lower (not reinforced and trimmed) collar.

In the corner of the collar, you need to make 1 transverse stitch, blunting it. When sewing collars, you need to set the minimum stitch frequency so that the trimmed allowances do not crawl out in the corners.

Cut out allowances in the corners of the collar in three steps at a distance of 1 mm from the stitching. Step 1.

step 2 and 3. Then trim the straight seam allowances 5mm from the stitching.


Iron the allowances of the upper collar to the lower one.


Turn the collar inside out, straighten the corners and iron with a transitional edging 1 mm wide from the side of the lower collar.
The transitional piping is a roll of the upper collar to the lower one: it is made so that the stitching seam is not visible. Iron to a flat edge using a wooden ironing press.

Stitch the lower sections of the collar to the width of the foot (5-7 mm). Fold the collar in half, check the symmetry of the corners of the collar and cut the lower sections so that they are even along the entire length.

To evenly stitch the collar in the corners (this is where the line most often goes astray due to thickness), you need to stretch an auxiliary thread through them. When turning the needle in the corner, you need to slightly pull the thread, then the machine will not slip and the stitching will turn out neat. For topstitching, increase the stitch width slightly.


Sew the collar to the desired width from the side of the upper collar.


For a more even distribution of stiffness, both parts of the rack can be reinforced with a gasket: the inner (which is adjacent to the neck) - completely with allowances, and the outer - without seam allowances.


At the inner stand, iron the allowances for stitching into the neck inside out.


Sew off the lower edge of the inner stand at a distance of 7-10 mm from the fold, grabbing a cut of the ironed allowance.


Put a collar on the outer stand (reinforced side up), put the inner stand on the collar, align the parts along the cuts, chop off and grind along the upper cut of the stands. Please note: the lower edges of the uprights do not match, as the cut of one upright is tucked up!


Tip: before sewing the uprights, fold them in half and check the symmetry of the ends of the collar and uprights!

Trim allowances in the roundings of the rack up to 1 mm. Cut seam allowances to 5 mm.
Unscrew and iron the parts of the rack without transitional edge.

Draw a line on the outer post along the fold of the top post. This will mark the seam for stitching the rack into the neck.

Turning in the collar


Prick the collar and sweep into the neck. Sew the collar into the neck according to the marked seam markings.


Iron the seam allowances for attaching the collar onto the stand.


Prick and baste the tucked edge of the stand, overlapping the stitching line of the collar with a fold.


Sew the stand along the contour to the edge (at a distance of 1 mm from the edge). it is better to start stitching from the middle of the upper edge of the rack, so you will avoid bartacks in the corners of the rack - where the thickness is.

Underwire collar for office shirts

A collar with bones in manufacturing differs from the usual one only in that a part with a drawstring is preliminarily adjusted to the detail of the lower collar (not reinforced with a gasket), where the bones are then inserted. In this case, the upper collar is not glued in the corners.


Cut out two pieces of corners with the same allowances as for the details of the collar. The width of these parts should be such that they fit the bones of the collar along the bisector of the corner.

Iron the inner section of the parts inside out.


Put the details on the corners of the lower collar, combining the cuts, chop and lay the bones along the bisector of the corners of the collar.
Draw the width of the bones.

Stitch the details along the folded edge and the lines of the bones. This is the drawstring for the bones.
Next, process the collar in the same way as described above for a hard collar. Insert bones after sewing the shirt. Don't forget to take them out before washing and ironing your shirt!

Soft collar for summer shirts
they are sewn in the same way as a hard one, only to strengthen it they take the thinnest adhesive pad. Details of the collar, stand and cuffs are glued with a gasket in one layer. Tip: you can take non-adhesive pads, they more gently strengthen the collar. In this case, the gasket is tacked to the parts before they are sewn.

shirt bottom

Before processing the bottom, fold the sides of the shelves together and check their length, trim uneven cuts!
Tuck the bottom allowance once by 7 mm, baste 1 mm from the fold and iron.

After that, tuck the allowance again by 7 mm, bast and iron. Only then the hem of the bottom will not worry and gather in curves. Sew the hem to the edge (1 mm from the edge of the fold).

Loops and buttons


Mark the loops with an aqua marker (traces of such marking can be washed off with water).
Loops are marked in the middle of the strap of the shelf and sleeve and along it and along the cuff.
The loop should be 2-3 mm longer than the diameter of the button.
Punch loops, cut through them, mark and sew on buttons. You can cut the loops with a ripper. In order not to cut the loop further than it should be, a needle is injected into the end of the loop across the loop.))
All! It remains to finally iron the shirt. Ready!

Then you need to do this for a rating from “good” to “excellent”. Tune in to a high result, otherwise it’s not worth it to take on tailoring. A do-it-yourself shirt for a man is not out of poverty and not out of economy, but out of great love for your man and the desire to dress him, as in the best Neapolitan ateliers.

Smooth seams, no protruding threads, clear stitching, comfortable pattern. And a lot of nuances that an ordinary person will not pay attention to, but we will consider them (and apply!) All of them.

Sewing sequence for a classic men's shirt

1. Cut the shirt.

In different models, the cut may contain the following details:

Back, front halves -2 details, placket, yoke, collar, stand collar, sleeves, cuffs, pockets.

If you are having difficulty building a pattern, then take ready-made patterns here http://angel-a-dress.ru/vykrojki/muzhskaya-odezhda...pritalennogo-silueta-3-razmera, but remember that the best pattern is individually built .

Tip: when sewing a shirt, do not immediately cut the sleeves and collar. The fact is that after trying on, there will certainly be corrections of landing and increases in freedom (more / less). The armhole can be enlarged and a larger neckline made.
I cut out the details of the collar and sleeves after adjusting the fit and measuring the lengths of the neck and armholes. That's right.

Textile. Cotton, linen. For gourmets - silk. For sports polo shirts - cotton or viscose jersey. I am for natural fabrics, and I don’t even recommend using a mixture of cotton and polyester.
Seam allowances: side seams, bottom, sleeves - 1.2 -1.5 cm each. Neckline, collar, cuffs - 0.8 - 1 cm each.

2. One-piece bar, undercut or simple one-piece pick. I suppose to do separate master classes on all types of fasteners.
The width of the placket is comfortable 3 - 3.5 cm. Do not forget to glue the pick-up with a soft doubler, then the loops and buttons will be clearer and stronger.

3. Coquette

How to sew a yoke is discussed in detail in the master class http://angel-a-dress.ru/texnologii/rubashki/kak-pritachat-koketku-rubashki. You need to cut out 2 equal parts of the yoke and sew them in this way with the main parts of the back and front, so that all the seam allowances are between the parts of the yoke. No overclocking, of course. A well-tailored shirt does not have a single overlock seam at all.

4.patch pocket on the shelf, if it is provided in the shirt model. Master class: invoice pocket http://angel-a-dress.ru/texnologii/karmany/nakladnoj-karman.

5. Collar.

Most likely, you will sew a collar with a stand.

Before cutting the stand and collar, do not forget to measure the length of the neck along an imaginary sewing line. It is convenient to measure the neck when folded with a centimeter tape "on the edge"

Measure the length of the neck.

If your model is a polo shirt, then to help - in the master class, a collar with a one-piece stand http://angel-a-dress.ru/texnologii/vorotniki/kak-k...-vtachat-rubashechnyj-vorotnik.

6. process the cut of the sleeve

At this stage, while the sleeves are still "open", it is very convenient to outline and make a fastener in the form of a strap or just process the cut.

So you can process the cut of the sleeve in a simple classic way.

Sleeve cut - on the elbow (back) part of the sleeve, approximately one quarter from the length of the lower cut. Pintuck or iron the tucks, equalizing the width of the sleeve at the bottom and the length of the cuff.

Bend the cut from the larger side of the cut inside out, no more than 2-3 mm and stitch up to the point of the cut, reducing the allowance to nothing.

Turn the sleeve over to the wrong side and stitch the allowance of the second side of the cut, capturing the first allowance at the end of the line in the hem, by about 0.5 cm. It’s easier to see once than to read a hundred times:

There are a lot of fastening options. Here you have a number of master classes, choose according to your taste and according to your abilities.

With one-piece facing http://angel-a-dress.ru/texnologii/shlica-rukava/kak-obrabotat-razrez-rukava-3 - classic plank

Men's shirt cuff

It turns out effectively, although laborious.

And the last "trick" in tailoring a shirt is a gusset, or a side seam teacher, an optional but cute element.

Thomas Pink. Light pink gussets - brand name

Neapolitan shirt, handmade

I hope that the analysis of sewing shirt knots was useful to you. For me - definitely useful, so as not to forget how many different tricks there are.

I wish you all pleasant sewing and happy handsome men.

There is no better gift for a man than a handmade gift. Especially if it's a stunning stylish shirt with a fitted silhouette, made with him in mind!

School of Sewing Anastasia Korfiati
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How to sew a men's shirt: taking measurements

To build a pattern for a men's fitted shirt, you need to take the following measurements:

Height - 180 cm

Chest circumference (OG) - 102 cm

Waist circumference (FROM) - 94 cm

Sleeve length (DR) - 65 cm

Neck girth (OS) - 42 cm

Back length to waist - 47 cm

Wrist girth - 19 cm

Product length - 65 cm

Auxiliary measurements for constructing a pattern of a men's fitted shirt must be calculated using the formulas:

Back width (SHSp) \u003d 2/10 OG - 1 cm (for OG up to 112 cm) \u003d 1/10 OG + 10.5 cm (for OG more than 112 cm)

Armhole width (SHPr) = 1/10 OG + 2 cm

Chest width (SHG) \u003d 2/10 OG - 1 cm (for OG up to 112 cm) \u003d 1/2 OG - ShSp - ShPr (for OG more than 112 cm)

Armhole depth (Gpr) = (1/10 OG + 12) + 3 (for all sizes)

Back neck length (DGsp) = 1/6 Neck girth

The increase in the freedom of fitting a men's fitted shirt should be 5 - 5.5 cm. Important! The grid width is 1/2 OG + 5.5 cm = 52 + 5.5 = 57.5 cm.

Freedom of fit for a men's shirt:

Calculation of initial values:

Back width = 102/10 ∗ 2 - 1 = 19.4 cm

Armhole width = 102/10 + 2 = 12.2 cm

Chest width = 102/10 ∗ 2 - 1 = 19.4 cm

After performing the calculations, it is necessary to check their correctness. To do this, add the obtained values. The amount should be equal to the half-girth of the chest according to the measurement.

Examination: 19.4 + 12.2 + 19.4 = 51cm

Additionally, the depth of the armhole is calculated with an increase (Gpr) = 102/10 + 12 + 3 = 25.2 cm.

Back neck length (DGsp) = 42/6 = 7 cm.

We build a base pattern

Rice. 1. Pattern-basis of a men's shirt

Draw a grid with a width equal to 1/2 OG + 5.5 cm for the freedom of fitting the shirt and a length equal to the desired length of the shirt according to the measurements: AB \u003d 102/2 + 5.5 \u003d 51 + 5.5 \u003d 56.5 cm. AD ​​\u003d 65 cm (length of the shirt to measure).

From point A, lay down the Depth of the armhole AG \u003d 102/10 +12 +3 \u003d 25.2 cm, The length of the back of the shirt to the waist according to the measurement AT \u003d 47 cm. Draw lines GG1, TT1, G2P, G3P2.

From point G1 from right to left, set aside the width of the back of a men's shirt with an increase of GG2 \u003d 102 / 10x2 - 1 + 1.3 \u003d 20.7 cm, the width of the armhole of a men's shirt with an increase of G2G3 \u003d 102/10 + 2 + 3.5 \u003d 15.7 cm.

Shirt side line G4 = G2G3/2. Draw the line G4H1.

From point B to the left, set aside the calculated value of the length of the neck of the back + 1 cm: BB1 \u003d 7 + 1 \u003d 8 cm.

Set aside 2 cm from point B1: B1B2 = 2 cm.

Shoulder slope From point P, lay down 3 cm: PP1 = 3 cm.

Divide the depth lines of the armhole PG2 and P2G3 into 5 equal parts. Draw a horizontal line 1.5 cm long from the lower division point of PG2, draw a horizontal line 0.7 cm long from the middle division point. Draw a line for the armhole of the back of a men's shirt using the pattern.

From point A down, set aside the length of the neck of the back + 2 cm for all sizes AA1 \u003d 7 + 2 \u003d 9 cm and to the right - the length of the neck of the back (DGsp \u003d 7 cm). Connect the obtained points with a line, divide the line in half and set aside 1.7 cm at a right angle. Draw a neckline for the front of a men's shirt according to the pattern.

Set aside 4 cm from point P2 down - point P3. Draw a shoulder line on the front of the shirt, equal in length to the length of the back shoulder.

According to the pattern, draw an armhole in front of a men's shirt, which passes through the middle point of division P2G3 to point G4.

On the side at the level of the waist line, set aside 2 cm to the left and 1.5 cm to the right for tucks. Connect the obtained points with the points G4 and H1 with smooth curved lines.

Divide the back of the shirt in half along the waist and set aside 1.5 cm from the obtained point to the left and right to the tuck. The length of the tuck up 17-18 cm.

IMPORTANT! Measure the width of the mesh along the bottom of the shirt. HH2 should be 1/2 OB +2 cm. If the value obtained is less, it is necessary to expand the shirt on the sides.

In the middle of the front, it is necessary to give an increase to the bar, making an increase to the middle of the front - 4.5 cm. The width of the bar in finished form is 3 cm. The bar can be one-piece or stitched. In the second case, the bar must be cut off and cut out separately.

pattern modeling

Rice. 2. How to sew a men's shirt: modeling

Set aside 2 cm along the armhole in front of the shirt and along the neckline from the shoulder. Draw a horizontal line. Cut off the resulting part and glue it along the shoulder line of the back.

Set aside 7 cm along the middle seam of the back from the neck - the width of the yoke. Draw a horizontal line.

Set aside 1-1.5 cm down the armhole from the yoke line. Draw a smooth line along the pattern. Cut off the yoke from the back. In the middle of the back, make an increase of 3 cm per crease. Cut out the back with a fold in the center. The width of the fold in finished form is 3 cm.

On the bottom of the shirt with the help of a template, setting aside 4 cm up the sides, draw a figured line of the bottom of the shirt.

Cut out the front and back of the shirt without a yoke, additionally cut out two details of the yoke (the yoke in men's shirts is made double - in two layers of fabric).

Men's shirt sleeve pattern

Rice. 3. Sleeve pattern for a men's shirt

Measure the length of the armhole on the drawing. Based on the measured value of the armhole, calculate the Height of the armhole OO1 \u003d 1/3 of the length of the armhole according to the drawing minus 5 cm, and the Length of the auxiliary line of the armhole OP and OP1 \u003d 1/2 of the length of the armhole according to the drawing.

From point O (the highest point of the collar of the shirt sleeve) down, set aside the calculated Height of the collar - point O1. Draw a horizontal line through point O1 - PP1.

From the point O to the left and to the right, set aside the calculated value of the length of the auxiliary line of the collar of the sleeve of the shirt OP and OP1.

From point O down, set aside the length of the sleeve according to the measure minus 1 cm.

The width of the sleeve at the bottom is equal to the length of the cuff of the sleeve + 4 cm by two folds. Divide the resulting value in half and set aside to the left and right of the H point.

IMPORTANT! The length of the cuff is calculated as follows: The circumference of the wrist to measure + 2 cm for freedom of fit + 3 cm for the fastener.

Sleeve section - HH1 divided in half. The cut line is 10-12 cm long.

Draw a line around the sleeve as shown in the pattern drawing.

Shirt cuff pattern

Rice. 4. Pattern of the cuff of a men's fitted shirt

On the drawing of the cuff pattern, the construction of a cuff for a cufflink and the construction of a simple cuff are given. AB is equal to the circumference of the wrist according to the measure + 2 cm for freedom of fit + 3 cm for the fastener.

collar pattern

Rice. 5. Shirt collar pattern

Measure the length of the neckline of the front of the shirt with the finished placket and the back of the shirt. Build the stand-up collar and the collar of the men's shirt as shown in the drawing of pattern 4.

The stand-up collar is cut out separately, the collar of the men's shirt is cut out separately.

The men's shirt has been a classic of men's fashion for many years and is a sign of good taste and elegance. The shirt looks good in both business and informal settings. Silk and wool, denim and plaid, strict striped and romantic with a frill - there are never too many shirts in a man's wardrobe.

Recently typed in the search: "to sew a men's shirt." As usual, helpful Google and Yandex offered a lot of various articles, of which I especially liked one article, or rather the line (I quote literally): "sew a shirt for a man with your own hands and you will give him not only an excellent hand-made thing, but also share your mood." I don’t know what about a great hand-made thing, but the mood after such lines really rises.

The master class "How to sew a men's shirt" will be divided into 5 sections:

1. MK 1: ;
2. MK 2: ;
3. MK 3: ;
4. MK 4: ... And also - the final processing of a men's shirt - hemming the bottom of the product, overcasting buttonholes and sewing on buttons;
5. MK 5: .

Making a men's shirt begins with taking measurements and building a pattern.

You can make a pattern for a men's shirt like this:

1. Rip open an old men's shirt, iron the details with an iron, transfer the contours of the details to paper, cut them out and the men's shirt pattern is ready.
2. Build a pattern of a men's shirt from magazines and books.
3. Download a free pattern for a men's shirt via the Internet and print it on a printer.

I used point #2.

Fabric consumption (plaid flannel) for a men's shirt is calculated as follows:

• with a fabric width of 1 m 50 cm = one shirt length + one sleeve length + 40 cm for cuffs, collar, pockets, etc.
• with a fabric width of 1 m 10 cm = two shirt lengths + one sleeve length + 50 cm for cuffs, collar, pockets, etc.

The flannel fabric must be decanted before cutting - rinse in hot water, dry, iron with a hot iron from the wrong side.

When cutting a men's shirt, attach all the details with pins along the shared thread on the fabric folded in half. Lay the pattern of the front of the men's shirt 1 cm from the edges, and align the middle of the back, yoke of the back, collar, collar stand with the fold of the fabric. The strips for processing the front fasteners can be cut out in one piece (as, for example, I cut out), or as separate parts in the shared, transverse or oblique directions. The length of the straps of a men's shirt is equal to the length of the fastener, and the width is 3 cm in finished form (with allowances for seams - about 5-6 cm). Pockets and flaps can be cut out in any direction, however, I cut them out along the shared thread in such a way that the rapport of the pattern on the pockets, flaps and shelves coincided.

Seam allowances - 1.2-1.5 cm on each side of the men's shirt cut detail.

From interlining or any other cushioning fabric, cut out a collar, collar stand, cuffs, valves according to the already cut out details of a men's shirt from the main fabric.

Men's shirt cut details:

1. Back - 1 piece

2. Shelf with a one-piece bar - 2 parts

3. Back yoke - 1 piece

4. Sleeve - 2 parts

5. Cuff - 2 parts

6. Collar - 2 parts

8. Invoice pocket - 2 parts

9. Pocket valve - 2 parts

10. Facing sleeves (piping) - 2 parts

Details of cut from adhesive interlining:

5. Cuff - 2 parts

6. Collar - 2 parts

7. Collar stand - 2 parts

9. Pocket valve - 2 parts

To your question why I called the article "Sewing a men's shirt is easy!", I will answer this way: I really think that sewing a men's shirt is easy. As a rule, the fabric for men's shirts is natural (or "conditionally" natural), from which it is a pleasure to sew - the sewing machine sews perfectly, it is well stitched when ironing, there are no many cut details, the seams are mostly straight and uncomplicated (stitched, turned, stitched) and much, much more in favor of the fact that you can start learning to sew with a men's shirt.

A white shirt is refreshing and looks elegant. She never goes out of fashion. Along with the little black dress, the classic women's shirt has a cult status.

Ideally, it repeats a men's shirt and looks a little larger in size, which makes its owner fragile. They sew a women's shirt, as a rule, without darts, but options are possible: it can be more tight-fitting, with darts or reliefs, made of cambric, good quality cotton or silk. If you sew a women's shirt with your own hands from fabric in a cage, you get a cowboy shirt, from a fabric with a large floral pattern - Hawaiian.

WHAT ARE THE MAIN DETAILS OF A SHIRT?

This is a turn-down collar on the stand, a placket, a lowered armhole, sewn seams, a double yoke and sleeves with cuffs and slits, as in a men's shirt. But in a women's shirt, the straps can be narrower or wider than standard ones (for a men's shirt it is 3 cm), collars and cuffs are not so rigid, buttons can already be with two holes (it is believed that in men's shirts buttons are used with only four holes for sewing) . Also, in women's shirts, instead of stitching, there can be ordinary seams processed with an overlock and without stitching.

In order not to repeat yourself and teach you something new, in the master class "How to sew a women's shirt" the processing of some knots has been changed.

As a basis for sewing a women's shirt with our own hands, we take a pattern of model 120 from Burda 10/2016:

Blouse-shirt Borrowed from a masculine wardrobe, this loose-fitting shirt blouse with dropped armholes will add just the right amount of effortlessness to any look. With my size 38, I took the pattern for a size smaller - 36 size. The shirt model turned out to be quite voluminous, especially in the shoulder girdle. It doesn’t matter which pattern to take, all shirts are generally sewn the same way.

YOU WILL NEED:

Shirt fabric - 1.5 m with a width of 140 cm;
Interlining - 30 cm;
Buttons - 10 pcs.;
Tailor's scissors (buy at the Burda store);
Bias trim for finishing;
Threads and a needle for sewing;
Tailor's pins (buy at the Burda store);
Tracing paper (buy at the Burda store);
Pencil or felt-tip pen for marking (buy at the Burda store);
Ruler (buy at Burda store)

STEP 1. PREPARATION OF A WOMEN'S SHIRT PATTERN

I had to shorten the pattern in length.

Since the bottom of the shirt is curly, I laid a transverse fold on the pattern above the bottom line so as not to change it.

The sleeve is shortened in the middle of the sleeve, again in order not to change the bottom line with markings, because the bottom of the sleeve is designed for the length of the cuff.

Often a stitched bar is given in the magazine. When possible, I replace it with a one-piece, this greatly simplifies its processing.

To do this, the paper part of the plank must be glued to the part of the shelf and add one more of its width to get a double plank (a plank with two gates). The second turn of the bar replaces the adhesive pad, which, again, simplifies the work.

STEP 2. CUT

We cut out the details of the shirt with the same allowances for all sections of 1.5 cm.

IMPORTANT! PLANKS ARE CUT WITHOUT ALLOWANCES.

There are many small details in the shirt that strengthen the adhesive, so it is better to first mark the location of these details on the fabric (stands, collars and cuffs), then cut this piece of fabric and strengthen it with adhesive. And only then cut out all the small details from the glued fabric. So the work is accelerated, and the cut is more accurate.

IN A WOMEN'S SHIRT, IT IS NECESSARY TO STRENGTHEN ALL PAIR PARTS OF THE STAND, COLLAR AND CUFF TOGETHER WITH ALLOWANCES WITH A THIN GLUE.

Glue G785 is perfect for these purposes, as well as interlining H180 and their analogues. The duplicating material should be thin and plastic, unlike a man's shirt.
Then, on the glue mark all the allowances on small parts.

STEP 3. PROCESSING THE PLANKS

Planks are processed first after cutting, even before the first fitting, because they do not affect the fit of the product.

To do this, you need to chop off or bend a paper plank on the pattern and with an iron, without chipping off the pattern, iron the bar twice on the wrong side of the shelf, first on one part, then turn the shelves over and iron the bar on the other part. Pin the planks onto the shelf.

Then stitch the strips on the shelf 1 mm from the fold (to the edge) and mark loops and buttons on them with an aquamarker. This is required for sampling. The loops go along the bar and in the middle of it.

DO NOT FORGET THAT ON THE PATTERNS IN THE MAGAZINE THE MARKING OF THE LOOP IS GIVEN FOR THE SMALLEST SIZE! REMEMBER THIS WHEN REMOVING THE PATTERN.

STEP 4

Lay the pleat on the back and stitch it along the allowance. This will fix her. Baste the shirt for the first fitting. For her, it is enough to baste only one detail of the coquette. The second yoke is sewn on after trying on. Try on a shirt, fit it to your figure.

STEP 5. PROCESSING COQUETS

In order to sew on the second yoke, you will have to dissolve the basting on the sides after trying on.

Lay the shirt face up on the table.

Roll up the back detail on the yoke with a tube.

Roll up the details of the shelves on the yoke.

Lay the second yoke face down on top and pin with the bottom yoke. The twisted details of the shelves and back remain inside, between the coquettes.

Stitch details of coquettes. Trim the allowances to 5-7 mm.

Unscrew the yokes, pull the details of the shelves and back out through the neck.
Iron the seams of the coquette. Sew them from the front of the shirt, if necessary according to the model.

STEP 6. PROCESSING THE COLLAR

Collar details fold face to face, chop them off and stitch along the markings. Cut out allowances in the corners up to 1 mm from the stitching and trim to 5 mm.

Iron the collar allowances on the block.

Turn the collar inside out, iron without a transitional piping and topstitch along the edge.

On one part of the rack, cut the bottom allowance.

Trim the trimmed bottom edge. To do this, apply an oblique trim from a finishing fabric (I use tie silk) and stitch it on the lower cut of the stand 5-6 mm from the edge.

Wrap the cut of the rack with inlay and iron it.

Lay a line exactly in the stitching seam of the inlay (immediately under the oblique inlay), grabbing the second cut of the inlay from the inside.

Prick a stand without trim with the face on the lower collar. Combine the cuts, the middle, check the symmetry of the ends of the stand by folding the collar with the pinned stand in half.

From the side of the upper collar, put the edged stand face down.

Stitch the racks, grabbing the collar between them. Cut allowances in roundings to 1 mm, in other areas to 7 mm.

Unscrew the racks, iron without transitional edge.

IMPORTANT! WE IRON OR THE COLLAR OR THE STAND SEPARATELY SO THE COLLAR DOES NOT LOSE SHAPE.

On the top stand, draw a line for attaching the collar.

STEP 7. SEWING THE COLLAR

Mark the middle of the stand and the middle of the collar. Prick the collar into the neck from the front of the shirt, combining the middle, ends of the collar and placket, also marks along the shoulder seams. Sew the collar into the neck, laying the line exactly along the marked line.

Cut out the seam allowances at the ends of the collar, iron the stand allowances.

Prick the second post over the seam so as to overlap the stitching.

Baste the stand so that the basting goes on one side along the edge of the oblique inlay, and on the other side into the seam for attaching the collar. It is better to leave pins in the corners of the collar for better fixation of the stand.

Lay the line exactly on the edge of the inlay. Finally iron the stand.

STEP 8. PROCESSING THE FIGURED BOTTOM OF THE SHIRT

You can process the bottom of the shirt in the classic way by tucking the allowances twice and stitching them. But my bottom of the shelves is much shorter than the bottom of the back, so it’s better to process it separately at the shelves and back.

Fold two shelves, check the symmetry of the bottom, trim it in case of unevenness.
Fold the shelves with the back. Where the rounding of the bottom ends, make notches 5-7 mm along the allowances. This will be the end of the side seam.

Turn around the bottom of the shelves and the backrest separately with an oblique inlay (just like the stand, you just need to tuck the second cut of the inlay). At the slats, bend the ends of the inlay inward.

STEP 9. SLEEVES

Cut the bottom of the sleeve along the markings.

Trim with a bias tape that side of the cut, which is closer to the seam of the sleeve.

Make a cutting plank. The width of the strap in the cut is 4 cm (2 cm in finished form).
The length of the strap is 3 cm longer than the length of the incision. The top of the bar can be made as a corner or straight.

Cut out strips with 1 cm allowances.

Fold the planks in half lengthwise, stitch the top corner along the markings (3 cm above the cut).
Allowances in the corners cut and cut to 5 mm. At the end of the line, make a notch on the allowance.

Unscrew the strips, iron. Lay the finishing line along the fold of the bar to the height of the cut.

On the front side of the sleeve, put on and stitch the bar on the second side of the cut. Notch the allowance above the line.

Iron the allowance inside the bar, prick the second fold of the bar over the stitching seam.

Prick the bar over the slit and topstitch over the slit along the edge and top corner.

Here's what happened.

STEP 10. SEWING THE SLEEVE

On the front side of the sleeve, sweep the eye allowances to a width of 5-6 mm and iron them.

Poke the sleeve into the armhole so that the armhole allowance does not protrude beyond the fold of the sleeve allowance.

Sew the sleeve into the armhole 6-7 mm from the fold of the sleeve allowance. Important! The line must be at the same distance from the fold of the allowance, otherwise the seam will not be even.

Press seam allowances into armholes, pin and baste.

Sew the armhole allowance exactly along the edge of the allowance fold.

View of the stitched-in sleeve from the face of the shirt.

STEP 11. SIDE SEAMS

Fold the allowances of the side seam and the seam of the sleeve so that one allowance protrudes 6-7 mm behind the other, chop them off and sew 6-7 mm from the smaller cut.

You can fold the allowances evenly, but then you have to trim one allowance. The first way is easier and faster.

Iron the protruding allowance to a smaller one.

Then lay out the details of the shelf and back, iron the allowances, then pin them on the seam and stitch on the details of the sleeve and shelf.

On the front side, a seam with a stitching turned out. Back seam with two stitches.

STEP 12. PROCESSING THE CUFF

On the outer cuff, iron the hem allowance inside out and stitch it 1 cm from the fold.

Fold the cuff pieces face to face and sew them along the markings. Cut the allowances in the roundings to 1 mm, the rest - up to 5-6 mm from the line.

Iron the allowances on the block, like at the collar. Turn the cuff inside out and iron without the transition band. Along the fold line of the outer part, draw a line for attaching the cuff.

Sew along the outer edge of the cuff, starting and ending at the bottom cross stitch!

Lay the pleats at the bottom of the sleeve. From the front side, the folds of the folds look at the cut of the sleeve.

Insert the cuff into the sleeve from the wrong side! Stitch the cuff according to the markup. Trim the seam allowances at the ends of the cuff.

Iron the allowances into the cuff. Prick the folded edge of the cuff on the front side of the sleeve, overlapping the sewing line.

Sew the cuff along the edge of the fold. It turns out that on the front side the cuff has two parallel finishing lines along the bottom.

STEP 13. HINGES

Punch loops along the markup, sew on buttons. The loops on the bar go in the middle and along the bar, on the rack - along the rack, on the cuff - along the cuff and 5-7 mm from its short edge. The length of the buttonhole is equal to the diameter of the button plus 2 mm.

Buttons are sewn on a thread leg.

Hello. Let's analyze the order of how to sew a men's shirt with your own hands from the beginning to the result.

Taking measurements and building patterns for shirt details

After cutting, it would be nice to assemble the shirt and try it on. Some adjustments may need to be made. Note the overall fit front and back; for a sufficient width of the neck; for shirt and sleeve lengths.

Tailoring begins with the assembly of smaller parts

1.

2. We sew pockets, if they are provided on your model.

I place the pockets on the pattern by eye, approximately in the middle of the shelf somewhere at the beginning of the rounding of the armhole to the side seam.

3.

4.

5.

6. Connection of sleeves and panels front and back

Since the lengths of the lines of the armhole and the hem of the sleeve are equal, there should be no problems with attaching the sleeve. We cut off the parts and connect them on a typewriter.

The seam can overlock or perform a backstitch.

In the factories there are special machines for sewing a seam and making such a seam there is a couple of trifles. At home, the process is quite laborious.

Stitching seam

One allowance, which belongs to the armhole, is trimmed.

The sleeve allowance is rolled up and ironed

I pin the sleeve allowance to the armhole

I lay a line along the edge of the allowance fold

View from the inside

Front side view

7. We connect the side seam and the seam of the sleeve with one line

You can also process allowances either with overcasting or with a sewing seam.

8. Sew on the cuffs

I cut out the details of the cuffs, duplicate with interlining. I cleave and connect on a typewriter starting and ending the line without capturing the allowances (on the lower cuff, the allowance is pinned up with a needle, because the line starts higher).

I carve the corners and turn the cuffs inside out.

I sew the cuff to the sleeve with one side. I iron the cuff allowances.

I tuck the remaining free edge and pin it up.

I lay a line on the front side of the sleeve exactly in the seam.

I make decorative stitching along the edge of the cuff.

9. Processing the bottom

I fold the bottom of the shirt by 5 mm, iron it. Then I tuck another 5 mm, iron and lay a line. It turned out a seam in a hem with a closed cut.

Not difficult. Having gradually migrated to the women's wardrobe, such a piece of clothing as a shirt has acquired a lot of variations and styles. Decorating it with some details, you can get a romantic or democratic style. Thus, this detail of the toilet can even become a blouse. But its basis is always the same - a classic shirt pattern. We will get to know her now.

What measurements to take and how to take them correctly

In order to carry out the construction of a shirt pattern, it is necessary to take measurements. They are removed directly from the person on whom the future product is sewn. Measures are the values ​​​​obtained by measuring the girth or length of body parts with a centimeter tape.

So, we measure the neck, while placing it at the level of the collarbone and the protruding cervical vertebra behind. The resulting value is recorded. In the future, we fix all measurement values ​​​​on paper with maximum accuracy, it depends on them the correct tailoring of the shirt.

Waist and hips are easy to measure. It is worth remembering that the hips and chest are measured at the most prominent points.

The length of the product is measured from to the mid-thigh line parallel to the spine, and the length of the back is measured to the waist.

Building a shirt shelf

Build a pattern for a women's shirt if you know that its main part consists of three elements - a back and two shelves in front. Shelves are two halves connected by a fastener.

On a large sheet of paper we build a pattern of a women's shirt, starting from the shelf.

1. Let's draw a horizontal line, the length of which is equal to the circumference of the waist. Let's sign the line.
2. On the right, leave 5 cm and put a point through which we draw a vertical line in the middle of the front.
3. On this line, we set aside such values ​​\u200b\u200bup and down to get the length of the product. We put points.
4. Draw a perpendicular from the top point to the left.
5. According to it, we set aside the girth of the neck and denote it with a dot.
6. From the starting point, it is necessary to postpone the depth of the neck, which is about 1 cm more than the girth of the neck.
7. From the end point of the neck girth, set aside the length of the shoulder to the left.
8. And from the end point of the shoulder down we measure 4 cm. We connect the beginning and end of the shoulder line so that it turns out to be beveled down.
9. From the waistline along the line of the middle of the front down, set aside the value of the hip circumference.
10. From the found point to the left we draw a perpendicular, which will be the line of the hips.

We build the back of the shirt

The pattern for the back will be slightly wider than the shelves. It is much easier to build.

Calculation of the width of the elements relative to the chest line

It is impossible to make a pattern for a women's shirt without checking the measurements received. The width of the product in this case is much more important than its length.

We make a small increase to the chest girth (7-8 cm), divide the amount by 4. The width of the shelf will be equal to this figure, increased by 2 cm, and for the backrest, 2 cm should be subtracted from the resulting number. Set aside these values ​​along the chest line and mark them with dots. The same values ​​​​at the waist will be a couple of centimeters less, since the waist is narrower than the chest.

Calculation of the width of the elements relative to the line of the hips

In this case, points are applied to the pattern of a women's shirt, the calculation of the location of which is carried out similarly to the previous one. The only difference is that at the end you need to finish the side line, connecting the waist, hips and chest at the extreme points.

And in conclusion, it remains to put a few small touches on the drawing:

1. We create an arbitrary tuck on the chest.
2. Smoothly draw a line from the edge of the shoulder to the edge of the chest line. This will be the armhole of the shirt. The sleeve is sewn on.
3. We draw a tuck from the waist line to the hip line 1 cm wide.
4. The "waist" tuck on the back is located from the hip line to the middle of the side.
5. Slightly deepen and widen the neck.
6. Building a placket for the button line parallel to the middle of the front.

You can build a pattern for a women's shirt quickly and easily, if you show perseverance and care at the same time. This is available even to a novice seamstress. It is enough to understand once a women's shirt in order to develop more complex models of shirts and blouses on its basis.

Hello. I will build a pattern of a women's shirt based on a dress.

The shirt has a number of characteristic features: a free armhole, a wide sleeve, coquettes, a stand-up collar, cuffs. For me personally, a 100% wide shirt with a lowered sleeve. Recently, these are quite rare and they give out blouses with planted sleeves, stylized as a shirt, for shirts. This is exactly the option I will do.

The shirt will be free cut, without waist darts.

My foundation

I changed the color of the lines and moved the halves apart.

• I transfer half of the raster of the shoulder tuck on the back to the armhole.

I have a tuck on the back 2 cm. I put a perpendicular (approximately) on the armhole from the base of the tuck. An incision is made and the armhole is expanded by 1 cm.

• Opened on the back - it is necessary to open on the shelf. Without hesitation, I open the armhole on the shelf also by 1 cm.

If the volume of the chest is large, you can open twice as much as on the back.

• I lengthen the shoulder line by 1 - 2 cm.
• The side seam is offset by 2 cm.
• I lower the bottom of the armhole by 2 cm.

Values ​​can, of course, vary.

• I'm drawing a new armhole.

I clean the drawing from unnecessary lines.

After modeling the armhole, I build the sleeve

You can unmodel the warp sleeve like this:

Yoke

• I close the rest of the shoulder tuck in a yoke.

I lengthen the tuck to the yoke line.

I close the drawer.

Transferring the chest tuck

I draw a new tuck line arbitrarily from the base of the tuck.

On the fabric, the tuck closes without reaching the very center of the chest, about 3 cm.

Offset shoulder line forward

The shirt is characterized by the transfer of the shoulder line forward to the shelf. I carry 2 cm.

Plank, bottom

From the middle of the shelf (in the figure below, I made the middle line dotted) I set aside 1.5 cm to the fold and another 3.5 cm for the one-piece plank.

She lifted the bottom on the side to wear a shirt for release.

Finished pattern

Pattern with allowances.

According to this pattern, such a straight dress is sewn - a shirt. On a girl, it looks very free, this is because the dress is on me, and I took a picture of it on my niece. I'm a little bigger.

A shirt is an indispensable item in every woman's wardrobe. Depending on the style and material from which the shirt is made, it can be strict, businesslike, creative, smart…

We will build a pattern - the basis of a women's shirt according to individual measurements, on the basis of which you can easily model various styles in the future, and we will build the button fastener detail in the center of the shelf. This clasp is found in many shirts.

measurements

Neck half circumference (Ssh) = 17.3;

Semicircumference of the chest of the second (CrII) = 44;

Semicircumference of the chest third (CrIII) = 42;

Half the width of the back (Ws) = 16.8;

Half the width of the first chest (WgI) = 19.1;

Waist (St) = 31.7;

Semicircumference of the hips (Sat) = 46;

Back length to waist (Dst) = 42.7;

Back length (Ds) = 40;

Front length to waist (Dpt) = 42.6;

Chest height (Bg) = 24.6;

Shoulder height oblique front (Vpkp) = 23.2;

Shoulder height oblique back (Vpks) = 42.3;

Side Height (Side) = 22;

Thigh height (Wb) = 20;

Shoulder Width (Shpl) = 12

Building a basic pattern for a women's shirt:

Let's build a pattern-basis of a women's shirt without darts, which is ideal for owners of a small breast size. For women with large breasts, it is necessary to provide a chest side tuck on the front pattern. Let's get started:

1. In the upper left corner, stepping back from the top about 7 cm, we set point A. From point A we bring down a vertical line - this is the line of the middle of the back.
2. On the vertical we set aside the segments: AT \u003d Ds \u003d 40; TB \u003d Wb \u003d 20; TG \u003d Sideways - (1.5 ÷ 2) \u003d 20; HP = (2÷3). From points T, B, G, P we draw horizontal lines to the right - these are the lines of the waist, hips, chest, armhole level.
3. From point A to the right, we set aside AP \u003d Csh / 3 + (1 ÷ 0.7) \u003d 6.4. From the point P upwards PP1 = Dst - Ds = 2.7. We connect A and P1 with a line, as in the drawing - the line of the neck of the back.
4. From point P to the right, we set aside PP3 = CrII + 1 + 4 = 49, where 4 is an increase in freedom of fitting for shirt-type blouses, based on 2 cm to the side seam of the front and back, so the total increase in chest girth will be 8 cm. From P3 we draw a vertical line - the line of the middle of the shelf. At its intersection with horizontal lines, we mark the points G3, T3, B3.

1. On the level line of the armhole, we mark PP1 \u003d Ws \u003d 16.8; P3P2 \u003d ShgI \u003d 19.1. We draw vertically upwards. We divide the segment P1P2 in half, mark the point P4, draw a vertical down.
2. From point P1 we draw an arc with a radius of P1Pl = Shpl +1 to a tuck +1 on a lowered sleeve = 14 and an arc with a radius of TPL = Vpks = 42.3. The intersection of the arcs - point Pl - shoulder point of the back.
3. We build a shoulder tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades: on P1Pl we mark P1P2 = 4. From the point P2 we lay down P2P3 = (8 ÷ 9); right Р2Р4 = 1; on P3P4 we postpone P3P5 = P2P3, connect the points P5 and Pl.

1. On the line of the middle of the shelf we mark Т3В = Dpt = 42.6. From point B to the left we set aside BB1 ​​\u003d AR - 1 \u003d 5.4. From point B we put aside BB2 \u003d AR \u003d 6.4 down. We build an arc B1B2 - the line of the neck of the shelf.
2. On the line of the middle of the shelf, we mark VC \u003d Bg \u003d 24.6. From the point C to the left, we set aside CC1 \u003d Cg \u003d 9.3.
3. From point B1 we draw an arc with a radius of V1Pl1 = Shpl +1 to a lowered sleeve = 13 and an arc with a radius of Ts1Pl1 = Vpkp = 23.2. The intersection of the arcs - point Pl1 - the shoulder point of the shelf. We connect points B1 and Pl1.

1. From P1 we set aside 7 cm upwards. BY THE LECAL, you can use it, we build the line of the armhole of the back Pl-7-P4, as shown in the drawing, it should be perpendicular to the line of the shoulder of the back. Point 7 is a guide, if it is not possible to draw a curved line through it without a break, then draw it next to it. We set aside 5 cm from P2 upwards. We build the line of the armhole of the shelf Pl1-5-P4, as in the drawing, it should be perpendicular to the line of the shoulder of the shelf and more “curved” to the point P4 than the armhole line of the back. This is necessary for the freedom of movement of the hands in the horizontal plane. Point 5 is also a guide, if you can’t draw a curved line through it without a break, then step back.
2. Check the width of the shirt at the hips. BB3 \u003d 49. Sat \u003d 46. Thus, the increase in hip circumference will be (49-46) * 2 \u003d 6. For a basic pattern, such an increase in freedom of fitting around the hips is enough for me. If you get a lower value, then you need to add the necessary centimeters along the hip line and adjust the side lines.

The base of the shirt bodice is built (drawing 5), on its basis, you can easily model various styles and make structural and decorative elements.

In the models of many shirts, there is a button closure in the center of the shelf, let's consider its modeling.

Button fastening design:

The button fastener, as in the photo, consists of two one-piece (cut out in one piece with a shelf) strips, on one of which (for women's shirts, the left one, if the shirt is worn by a person), buttons are sewn on, and on the other (respectively, the right one) loops are punched.

A pattern of a strap 3 cm wide, in this case the distance from the middle of the shelf (line of buttons) to the edge will be 1.5 cm, is constructed as follows:

1. We build an approach to the clasp: stepping back from the line of the middle of the shelf to the right 1.5 cm, we draw a parallel vertical line - this is the line of the edge of the clasp. It is very important to correctly draw the neckline so that the finished buttoned gate looks perfect. For this, the B2B4 arc must be a mirror twin of the B2B3 arc.
2. We build a hem inward: stepping back from the line of the edge of the fastener to the right 3 cm, we draw a parallel line. And here it is important to draw the line of the neck. The B4B5 arc should be the mirror twin of the B3B4 arc.
3. The bottom line of the bar is also a mirror twin of the corresponding section of the bottom line of the shelf. In this case, it is a straight line perpendicular to the line of the middle of the shelf.

You now have a basic pattern for a women's sleeveless round neck shirt with button closure.