1. Drawing the basis of a light women's dress

Measurements of a typical figure of the 46th size, III height, II fullness (in cm):

semicircumference of the neck C w = 18.0

first half-girth of the chest C r1 = 44.0

semi-girth of the chest second C r2 \u003d 48.0

chest half girth C r3 = 46.0

semi-circumference of the waist С t = 38.0

half-circumference of the hips C b = 53.0

chest width first W r1 = 17.0

chest width second W d2 = 19.5

chest center C r = 9.5

chest height B d = 33.5

waist length before D tp = 51.0

back waist D ts = 38.0

product length D out = 103.0

back width W c = 18.0

shoulder slope width W pl \u003d 13.5

shoulder height In pl = 5.0

sleeve length D hands = 34/58

shoulder girth O n = 29.0

wrist girth O zap = 16.0

We are building a drawing of a dress of a semi-adjacent shape, an increase in free fitting along the half-girth of the chest P g \u003d 4 cm, along the half-girth of the waist P t \u003d 2 cm and along the half-girth of the hips P b \u003d 2 cm.

BASIC GRID CONSTRUCTION

The basis is called the drawings of the contours of the main parts of the product: backs, shelves, sleeves. The drawing of the base is built on the base grid, which is a series of mutually perpendicular main construction lines built according to the measurements taken on the figures.

The position of the main lines on the drawing grid corresponds to the location of these lines on the figure. When the grid lines are skewed, the ratio of constructive lines is violated, and the product will not sit well on the figure. The names of these lines are given in fig. 28.

On the left side of a sheet of paper, stepping back from the edge 5-6 cm to the right, draw a vertical line and put point A on top of it.

Chest line height AG. From point A down, set aside 1/3 of the measurement of the half-girth of the chest of the second plus a constant value of 4 cm and put a point

For a light dress, the line of the half-girth of the chest is also the line of the base of the initial depth of the armhole. It is known that the girth of the shoulder joint in obese women does not increase in proportion to the increase in the girth of the chest, therefore, for sizes 54-60, the height of the line of the half-girth of the chest (base of the armhole) does not exceed 22.5 cm, and for sizes 62 and above 23 cm. This is especially important value in fitted products, where an increase in the depth of the armhole in a bodice with a set-in sleeve makes it difficult for the freedom of movement of the arm, especially the full one. The depth of the armhole also depends on the type of product, silhouette and other factors; in these cases, a decrease or increase in the depth of the armhole should be done only after the grid of the main drawing has been built. For example, for a narrow sleeve and a sleeve adjacent to the bottom, in order to ensure free movement of the arm, the depth of the armhole can be reduced (raised from the grid line) by 1 cm (Fig. 39, a) and, conversely, for sleeves that fit the arm freely below, you can deepen the armhole by 1-2 cm (as shown in Fig. 39, b).

back waist length AT. From point A down, set aside the measurement D ts and put the point T: AT \u003d D ts \u003d 38 cm.

Hip line height TB. It is determined as follows - 1/2 measurements of the length of the waist of the back minus

In women with large subcutaneous fat deposits on the sides above the hips, the height of the hips is:

Set aside 18 cm from point T down and put point B.

Product length AN. From point A down, set aside a measure of the length of the product and put a point H: AH \u003d D out \u003d 103 cm.

From the obtained points A, D, T, B, H, draw horizontal lines to the right at a right angle. These lines will be called the lines of the shoulder, chest, waist, hips and bottom.

Mark the beginning of the bevel of the midline of the back with a point a on the height line of the chest AG, dividing it in half. On the waist line from the point T to the right, set aside the bevel value of 1.5 cm and put the point T 1. The value of the bevel of the midline of the back depends on the posture: For figures with normal posture, the bevel is 1.5 cm, for oblique - 2 cm, for kinky - 0.5-1 cm. on the back and, accordingly, will reduce its wet-heat treatment. The bevel on the back also provides a beautiful shape of the cut.

From point a through point T 1, draw a straight line down and at its intersection with the lines of the chest, hips and bottom, put points G 1, B 1, H 1, respectively. The bevel line is the middle line of the back, and in the future, when constructing a drawing, all dimensions along horizontal lines are plotted from points G 1, T 1, B 1, H 1. If the middle line of the back is uncut, then the excess fabric (about 0.5 cm) formed in the width of the sprout after cutting should be picked up on a thread and tied.

The width of the product along the line of the semi-girth of the chest G 1 G 2 is determined by the measurement of the half-girth of the chest of the second plus an increase in free fit:

Set aside 52 cm from point G 1 to the right and put point G 2. Draw up and down a perpendicular line of arbitrary size through point G 2 - this will be the middle line of the floor. The intersection of it with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom, respectively, mark the points T 2, B 2, H 2.

back width G 1 G 3 is determined based on the measurement of the width of the back plus 0.2 increments for a free fit along the line of the half-girth of the chest:

Set aside 18.8 cm from point G 1 to the right and put point G 3. From point G 3 draw up a perpendicular line and at the intersection of it with the line of the shoulder put point A 1. A change in the increase in P g along the chest line accordingly changes the increase in the width of the sections along the chest line. For example, for measurements C g2, equal to 48 cm in an adjacent bodice with a set-in sleeve, where P g \u003d 3 cm, the width of the back G 1 G 3 will be equal to:

In the adjacent bodice on the corset (where P g \u003d 0 cm), the width of the back G 1 G 3 will be equal to W c = 18 cm. namely: an increase in the increase in the back will reduce the width of the floor accordingly.

armhole width G 3 G 4 is determined based on 1/4 of the measurement of the half-girth of the chest:

The width of the armhole is limited for large sizes for the same reason as the height of the chest line (the base of the armhole). So, in sizes 52-56, the width of the armhole should be reduced by , and in sizes 58 and above - on . In addition, in adjacent bodices for all sizes, due to a decrease in the increase in P g along the chest line, the width of the armhole decreases by 0.5 cm and in the adjacent bodice of the 46th size is , in the adjacent bodice of the 52nd size, it is equal to . The width of the armhole can also be calculated as follows - a measure of the half-girth of the chest of the second minus a measure of the width of the back and a measure of the width of the chest of the second plus 0.4P g: G 3 G 4 \u003d C g2 - W s - W g2 + 0.4P g \u003d (48 - 18 - 19.5) + 0.4 × 4 \u003d 10.5 + 1.6 \u003d 12.1 cm. The second method of calculation controls the first, and the deviations of the obtained values ​​\u200b\u200bshould not exceed ± 0.3 cm. Large deviations indicate that that the measurements were taken from the figure incorrectly.

Set aside 12 cm from the point G 3 to the right and put the point G 4, draw a perpendicular line of arbitrary length from it upwards.

floor width G 4 G 2 is determined by the difference between the width of the product along the bust line, the width of the back and the width of the armhole: G 4 G 2 \u003d G 1 G 2 - G 1 G 3 - G 3 G 4 \u003d 52 - 18.8 - 12 \u003d 21, 2 cm - or based on the measurement of the width of the chest, the second plus 0.4 increase P g: G 4 G 2 \u003d W g2 + 0.4 P 1 \u003d 19.5 + 0.4 × 4 \u003d 21.1 cm. In the calculations, the first and the second methods allow deviations of the obtained values ​​​​within ± 0.5 cm.

Auxiliary point of the top of the side cuts installed on the armhole width line. From point G 3 to the right, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole and put a point

The position of the side sections is not constant, it is determined by the silhouette shape and body features. So, in products with a straight silhouette, in order to make the back more free, the side sections are located from the back armhole line at a distance equal to 1/3 of the armhole width, or in the middle of the armhole width. This is possible because in products with a straight silhouette there are no tucks on the waist line, the side seams are less noticeable here and balance the width of the back and front (Fig. 30, a).

In products of an adjacent and semi-adjacent silhouette, the side sections are located at a distance from the armhole line of the back, equal to 1/8-1/4 of the armhole width. It is necessary to position the side sections closer to the back for a greater fit on the waistline and reduce the freedom of the back (Fig. 30, b).

For figures with a wide back and a small chest width, the side cut can be moved 2 cm towards the back, and for figures with a narrow back and a large chest width - 2 cm towards the front (Fig. 42, a). In the cuts of the bodice with one-piece sleeves, raglan sleeves, etc., the side sections in the armhole are centered.

From point G 5, lower the perpendicular, at the intersection of which with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom, put points T 3, B 3, H 3, respectively.

Neck top line A 2 A 3 determines the height of the hull and is the main constructive grid line of the drawing. It separates the back of the product from the front, and the correct ratio between these parts, called balance, decides the quality of the fit of the product on the figure.

In our book, the line of the top of the neck A 2 A 3 is preliminarily determined by the calculation-proportional method for the typical figures of women, with the subsequent adjustment of this line for figures of a disproportionate physique (Fig. 35).

From point G 2 upwards, set aside 1/2 measurements of the half-girth of the chest of the second and put a point

From point A 2 to the left, restore the perpendicular and put point A 3 at its intersection with the vertical line.

BUILDING A DRAWING OF THE BACK

The calculation and drawing of the contour lines of the back is performed on the prepared grid of the drawing in the following sequence.

Sprout width Aa 1 . From point A to the right, set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck plus a constant value of 0.5 cm and put a point

sprout height a 1 a 2 . From point a 1 up, set aside 1/3 of the width of the sprout and put a point

The length of the sprout along the curve Aa 2 is equal to the width of the sprout plus 1.5 cm (constant value):

The size of the length of the sprout is needed for the subsequent calculation of the length of the floor to the waist and the high point of the chest.

Back shoulder bevel A 1 P with normal slope of the shoulders is conditionally equal to 2.5-3 cm, at low - 3.5-4 cm and high - 1.5-2 cm. This value can be calculated by subtracting the height of the sprout from the measure of shoulder height

From point A 1 lay down 2.8 cm and put point P.

Back shoulder line a 2 P 1. Connect points a 2 and P with a straight line, continuing it from point P to the right by 2 cm, and put a point P 1. Measure the line a 2 P 1 obtained in the drawing: a 2 P 1 \u003d 16 cm.

Shoulder tuck solution on the back nn 1 is calculated based on the difference in the length of the shoulder section in the drawing and the measurement of the shoulder width: nn 1 \u003d a 2 P 1 - Sh pl \u003d 16 - 13.5 \u003d 2.5 cm. Set aside 3 from point a 2 to the right along the line of the shoulder cut -4 cm and put a point n, from which to the right set aside a solution of a tuck 2.5 cm and put a point n 1. From point n down, parallel to the middle line of the back (along the middle bevel), draw the first line of the tuck and put a point n 2. Make the second line n 1 n 2 equal in length to nn 2 .

The length of the tuck from the shoulder section of the back is 7-8 cm with tuck solutions up to 2 cm and 9-10 cm with a solution of more than 2 cm. For figures with large subcutaneous fat deposits in the upper back, the tuck length is reduced by 2-3 cm. To ensure the bevel of the shoulder cut for normal and high slope of the shoulders, from the point P 1 upwards, 0.5 cm should be set aside and put the point P 2. Connect points P 2 and n 1 with a straight line. Point P 2 is the top of the armhole on the back.

For products with shoulder pads, the bevel of the shoulder cut is reduced by setting aside 0.5-1 cm from point P 2 upwards.

The position of the shoulder tuck is not constant. For figures with a wide back and normal (or narrow) shoulders, where the depth of the tucks in the drawing is 5-7 cm, the tuck can be shaped as shown in fig. 42.

For figures with large subcutaneous fat deposits in the region of the 7th cervical vertebra, it is recommended to transfer the tuck from the shoulder section to the sprout line (Fig. 31, a), and for tissues that are well sutured, half of the tuck in depth or part of it can be sutured in the shoulder back section (Fig. 31, b).

Darts in the shoulder sections of the back (or sprout) contribute to the formation of the back of the product, that is, they provide the necessary fit for the shoulder blades and the fit of the armhole cut to the shoulder joint at the back, a stable fit of the product on the shoulders, and comfort in wearing, therefore, even for a straight back with broad shoulders, the tuck solution should be at least 1.5 cm. It is possible to increase the depth of the tuck by expanding the shoulder cut, as shown in fig. 31, in.

Back armhole line. Divide the line segment G 3 P in half and put a point P 3. From point G 3 to the right along the bisector, set aside 1/4 of the width of the armhole, put a point

Divide the width of the armhole G 3 G 4 in half and put a point P 5, from which draw up a perpendicular of arbitrary height. Draw the contour of the back armhole with a concave line, connecting the points P 2, P 3, P 4, P 5. Raise the waist line on the side, for which from the T 3 point upwards set aside 1 cm and put the T 7 point. Connect points T 7 and T 1 with a straight line.

The amount of solutions of tucks at the waist calculate based on the difference between the width of the waist line on the grid of the drawing and the measure of the half-circumference of the waist, with an allowance for a free fit

The resulting difference is the excess fabric that needs to be removed into the darts - side, back and two front.

Side tuck solution at the waist in the non-cut bodice of the dress for all figures it is 3 cm, of which 2 cm should be attributed to the back, 1 cm to the front. Set aside 2 cm from the point T 7 to the left and put the point T 4: T 7 T 4 \u003d 2 cm.

Back tuck at the waist. Divide the line segment T 1 T 4 in half and put a point m. Through it, parallel to the line of the bevel of the back, draw a line up and down until it intersects with the lines of the chest and hips.

Solution darts at the back waist is equal to 1/4 of the sum of solutions of tucks at the waist: . Set aside 1.5 cm from point m to the right and left and put points m 1 m 2. The upper point of the tuck m 3 is 5-6 cm from the chest line, and the lower point m 4 was 3-4 cm from the hip line. Make a tuck, as shown in the drawing. In products made of fabric that lends itself well to suture, the lower point of the tuck can be moved to the right by 2 cm, this will provide the desired direction of the tuck.

The location of the darts at the waist and the proportions of their solutions are not constant. They depend on the individual characteristics of the figure, the model being developed and the properties of the fabric. For example, for figures with a full waist in front and a large deflection in the waist of the back, it is recommended to reduce the opening of the front tucks (or limit it to one tuck), and increase the tuck on the back according to the solution, making it in the form of two upper tucks with tucks sewn down, as shown in fig. 31, a. This option is also recommended for women who have subcutaneous fat deposits on their backs above a thin waist.

In cases where the total amount of tuck solutions at the waist exceeds 15-17 cm, it is recommended to increase the increase in Pt to 3-4 cm, and for fabrics that lend themselves well to suture (or if the model requires it), suture the excess fabric on the edge for fit at the waist. In fitted products with a seam along the midline of the waist, a notch of 1-2.5 cm can be made. T 1 T 11 \u003d 1.5 cm.

The width of the product in half circumference hips to calculate based on the measurement of the half-circumference of the hips and the allowance for a free fit

The width of the hip line in the drawing between points B 1 B 2 is 51 cm. The value of the expansion of the product along the line of the half-girth of the hips will be 55-51 \u003d 4 cm, of which 2 cm is attributed to the back and 2 cm to the field: B 7 B 4 \u003d 2 cm, B 7 B 6 \u003d 2 cm. The width of the product along the hip line can correspond to the line width on the drawing grid or be less (for figures with narrow hips).

bottom line draw from point H 1 to the right at a right angle to the bevel line. It is equal to the width of the back hip line: H 1 H 4 \u003d B 1 B 4.

side cut line draw the backs through the points G 5, T 4, B 4, H 4, and connect the segment T 4 B 4 with a line with a deflection to the right.

To create one form or another, the share constructive lines (and reliefs), as well as tucks at the waist, are designed in different ways. So, when designing products with. a clearly defined waist line and a snug fit to the figure, straight broken lines are used (Fig. 31, d), to create soft silhouette forms of fit - convex curved lines (Fig. 31, e), to create semi-adjacent silhouettes without a clear design of the waist line - concave curved lines (Fig. 31, f).

CONSTRUCTION OF THE DRAWING OF THE FLOORS

Waist length at the midline of the floor A 2 T 5 . From point A 2 down the midline of the floor, set aside the measurement of the length of the waist in front minus the length of the sprout and put a point

For conditionally typical figures, the calculated value of the waist length of the floor should be on the drawing grid below the T 2 point within 1.5 cm. If the T 5 point is located more than 2 cm below the T 2 point or rises above it, then, therefore, this the figure has deviations in dimensional characteristics from the conditionally typical figure. In these cases, it is necessary to make an adjustment to the balance of the neck top line, as shown in Fig. 35. In our drawing, point T 5 is 1 cm below point T 2, that is, the figure is typical in terms of dimensional characteristics.

The position of the lines of the hips and bottom on the midline, the floors are finally determined by the value of the segment between the points

For figures with a protruding belly and an inflexible posture, the middle line of the floor should be further extended by 1 cm.

chest center G 2 C. From point G 2 to the left, set aside a measure of the distance between the centers of the nipple bases and put a point C: G 2 C \u003d C g \u003d 9.5 cm. From point C, raise the perpendicular and at its intersection with the line of the top of the neck, put point B. Down from point C, continue the line arbitrarily.

Height of the mammary glands BB 1 . From point B down, set aside the difference between the measurement of chest height and the length of the sprout and put a point

Point B 1 is the top of the chest tuck, its position is not constant and depends on the height of the mammary glands: it can be located above or below the bust line on the drawing grid. The correct determination of the position of the top of the chest tuck is of great importance when it is moved in the bodice to develop the style.

Neck width A 2 in. From point A 2 to the left, set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point in. The width of the neck is equal to the width of the sprout:

In the drawing, point c is the high point of the neck, that is, almost the top of the floor.

Neck depth And 2 in 1. From point A 2 down the midline of the floor, set aside the size of the neck width and put a point

Auxiliary point for the design of the neck. From point A 2 along the bisector, set aside the size of the neck width plus 0.5 cm and put a point

Make a cut of the neck by connecting the points in, in 2, in 1 with a smooth concave line.

The constructive cut lines of the sprout and the neck in the drawing correspond to the line of the half-girth of the neck along its base on the figure. Therefore, in order to check the overall fit and degree of fit of other design lines of the cut of the product on the figure during the fitting, it is necessary to protect the sections of the sprout and neck after cutting from stretching and shedding, securing them with a thread or edge. It is also not recommended to expand and deepen the sprout and neck in style before the first fitting. If these rules are violated, then defects may appear in the product, the causes of which are sometimes difficult to determine.

Auxiliary lines of the shoulder cut of the floor. Connect the high point of the neck to the back with point P 2 and, at the intersection of the lines of the height of the chest and the center of the armhole, put points B 2 and D, respectively.

Top of armhole line determined on the basis of practical observations in the process. With a normal slope of the shoulders from point D down, set aside 4.5 cm, at low - 5 cm, at high - 4 cm and put point D 1.

First line of chest tuck B 3 B 1 . From the point to the left along the auxiliary line of the shoulder cut, set aside 1/3 of the measurements of the width of the shoulder, and put point B 3, which is connected to point B 1 with a straight line:

The length of the shoulder cut segment from the top of the armhole line to the second line of the chest tuck is determined based on the difference between the measure of shoulder width and the length of the shoulder cut segment between points in and

Set aside 9 cm from point D 1 to the right regarding the auxiliary line of the shoulder cut of the floor and put point B 4, and this point must be placed on the lower side of the lines.

The second line of the chest tuck arrange by connecting points B 4 and B 1 with a straight line. Both sides of the tuck should be equal in length. When constructing a drawing of a large pattern, the second line of the tuck is sometimes longer than the first, it must be reduced, that is, trimmed along the first line, as shown in Fig. 32, a. For small sizes, on the contrary, the second line is shorter than the first, it needs to be increased, that is, trimmed along the first line of the tuck (Fig. 32, b). Finally, the shoulder section of the shelf is drawn up during the manufacture of patterns, connecting points c, D 1 with a straight line with a closed tuck.

For products with shoulder pads, the bevel of the shoulder cut of the floors is reduced by 0.5 cm.

Chest tuck opening size determined by graphical construction on the drawing, without calculations, based on the difference between the armhole point of the floor D 1 and the high point of the neck minus the width of the shoulder section. When constructing a drawing of a pattern for a woman whose shoulder width is greater than the norm adopted for a typical figure (by 1.5 cm or more), it is necessary to expand the shoulder sections of the floor beyond the line of the center of the armhole by 1.5-2 cm (Fig. 32, c ). This will ensure the desired opening of the chest tuck and the fit of the cut of the armhole floor to the shoulder joint in front.

The point of the greatest protrusion of the armhole determine by setting aside from the point G 4 upwards 5 cm, and put the point D 2, connecting it with the point D 1 with a straight line.

Divide the line D 1 D 2 in half, put a point D 4, from it perpendicular to the right, set aside 1 cm and put a point D 5. The notch D 4 D 5 for figures with small mammary glands is 0.5 cm, with medium ones - 1-1.5 cm and with large ones - 2-2.5 cm. From point G 4 to the left along the bisector set aside 2.5 cm ( for small sizes 2 cm) and put a point D 6. Draw an armhole line by connecting the points D 1, D 5, D 2, D 6, P 5 with a smooth concave line.

To get the exact line of the shoulder cut of the floor, it is necessary to close the breast tuck on the pattern of the drawing, connecting the first line of the tuck with the second, and from the neck, continuing the angle of the shoulder, align the line and cut off the excess at the end.

Darts in the drawing are an important structural element and are of particular importance in women's clothing, since with the help of darts the product acquires a three-dimensional shape. If in outerwear made of dense woolen fabric a three-dimensional shape in some places can be obtained by a plastic method, that is, by wet-heat treatment, then in a light dress and outerwear made of synthetic fabrics this is achieved only mechanically due to tucks.

The chest tuck is of paramount importance; it is the main one in the design of the product, regardless of the type of clothing.

For figures of the same size, but differing in physique, the size of the opening of the chest tuck is different. It depends mainly on the difference in the size of the width of the back W s and the width of the chest of the second W r2, as well as on the posture (shoulders pushed forward or laid back).

For an inflexible figure with a large chest, the size of the tuck opening should be 1-2 cm larger than for a typical figure of the same size. With an inclined figure and a small measure W r2, the tuck solution should be 1-2 cm less than for a typical figure of a similar size.

In addition, observations show that for a figure with a large chest and a narrow chest and, conversely, with a wide chest and a small chest, with one measurement W d2, the size of the opening of the chest tuck should be the same.

* (There may be deviations within ±0.5 cm.)

If the chest tuck remains in the model on the shoulder section of the floor, then its top must be shortened: for products made of light fabric - by 1 cm, from thick fabric (well-suited to sutyuzhka) - by 2-3 cm, - and both sides of it should be slightly concave lines.

Side tuck solution at the waist, equal to 1 cm, set aside from the point T 7 to the right and put the point T 6. Connect points T 5 and T 6, draw a waist line on the field, as shown in the drawing.

Solutions of two front darts at the waist calculate based on the difference between the total amount of tuck solutions and the sum of side tuck solutions and back darts at the waist:

The solution of the first and second darts will be equal to

The position of the first front tuck at the waist. Continue the first line of the chest tuck B 3 B 1 down to the waist line and put a point m 5, from it to the left set aside the solution of the tuck and put a point m 6: m 5 m 6 \u003d 3 cm.

For a typical figure, the upper end of the first front tuck at the waist m 7 does not reach the high point of the chest B 1 by 4 cm, for a full figure with a high waist and low-set mammary glands - by 2 cm, for a figure with a low waist and high-set mammary glands - by 5-6 cm. In our drawing m 7 B 1 = 4 cm. The length of the lower part of the tuck is 8-10 cm.

The position of the second front tuck at the waist. Divide the waist line segment between points m 6, T 6 in half and draw a vertical line up and down through the resulting notch. To the right and left of the serif, set aside a tuck depth of 3 cm and put points m 9, m 10. The length of the second tuck is equal to the length of the first.

For a semi-fitted product or for a full figure with a large, protruding belly, one front tuck is built at the waist with a solution of no more than 4-5 cm, it is located in the middle of the waist line between points T 5, T 6.

The calculation of the width of the product along the line of the half-girth of the hips is described on p. 60 when drawing a backrest.

The line of the hips floors expand from point B 3 to the left by 2 cm and put point B 6: B 3 B 6 \u003d B 3 B 4 \u003d 2 cm.

bottom line expand from point H 3 to the left by 2 cm and put point H 6.

Side cut line flooring draw through the points G 5, T 6, B 6, H 6, and draw the segment T 6 B 6 with a slightly concave line. The side sections of the back and the floors are equal in length. From points B 5, H 5 to the left until connecting with points B 6, H 6, draw smooth lines of the hips and bottom parallel to the waist line.

To build a drawing of a set-in sleeve, measure the length of the cut of the armhole and the line of sewing the sleeve into the armhole. The line for stitching the sleeve into the armhole runs at a distance of 1 cm from the cut of the armhole (Fig. 33). Both obtained sizes are indicated in the upper right corner of the shoulder of the back: the numerator is the length of the cut of the armhole; the denominator is the length of the sleeve stitching line. The length of the armhole along the line of sewing in the sleeve is on average 2-2.5 cm longer than the cut line of the armhole.

The length of the lines for cutting the armhole and sewing the sleeve into the armhole in our drawing is D pr \u003d 40/42 cm.

FEATURES OF CONSTRUCTION OF A DRAWING OF A WOMEN'S LIGHT DRESS WITH A CUT-OFF BARREL, EXTENDED DOWN (Fig. 34)

Build a drawing of the base of the semi-adjacent silhouette dress and make changes to the construction of the side sections.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE SIDE SECTION OF THE BACK

The top of the side cut G 3 P 6 \u003d 5-6 cm.

Back width at the waist equal to the width of the back along the chest line minus 3 cm. T 1 T 4 \u003d G 1 G 3 -3 \u003d 18.8-3 \u003d 15.8 cm.

Back width at hips equal to the width of the back along the waistline plus 2 cm. B 1 B 4 \u003d T 1 T 4 + 2 \u003d 15.8 + 2 \u003d 17.8 cm.

Back width at bottom line equal to the width of the back along the hip line plus 2 cm. N 1 N 4 \u003d B 1 B 4 +2 \u003d 17.8 + 2 \u003d 19.8 cm

Draw the line of the side cut of the back through the points P 6 G 3 T 4 B 4 H 4.

Draw the line of the middle cut of the back, setting aside 1.5 cm from the point T 1 to the right, and 2-3 cm below from the point H 1 to the left. T 1 T 11 \u003d l.5 cm. H 1 H 11 \u003d 2-3 cm.

BUILDING A CUT-OFF BARREL

The sum of the solutions of the darts at the waist is T 1 T 2 - (C t + P t) \u003d 51- (38 + 4) \u003d 9.

The tuck solution to the side cut of the back and to the side cut of the floor is equal to:

Barrel width along the chest line equal to the width of the armhole plus 2-3 cm:

G 3 G 9 \u003d G 3 G 4 + 2 \u003d 12 + 3 \u003d 15 cm.

Waist line width equal to the width along the chest line minus 2 cm:

T 8 T 6 \u003d G 3 G 9 -2 \u003d 15-2 \u003d 13 cm.

The total width of the product along the hip line is: C b + P b \u003d 53 + 2 \u003d 55 cm. The size of the product expansion along the hip line will be:

55-B 1 B 2 \u003d 55-51 \u003d 4 cm;

Barrel width at hips equal to the width along the chest line plus 4 cm: B 8 B 6 \u003d G 3 G 9 + 4 \u003d 15 + 4 \u003d 19 cm.

The width along the bottom line is equal to the width along the hip line plus 4-5 cm:

H 8 H 6 \u003d B 8 B 6 + 4 \u003d 19 + 4 \u003d 23 cm.

Draw the lines of the side cuts of the cutting barrel and the floors according to the calculated dimensions.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern - building the base

If you decide to sew for yourself, the first thing to start with is to take measurements and build a base pattern, according to which you can model any style. Today we will give you a step-by-step construction of a dress base pattern.
But first, let's take measurements.

To build a drawing of a pattern-base for a women's dress (size 48), you need to take the following measurements:

1. Dress length 100cm

2. Length back to waist 38cm

3. Shoulder length 13 cm

4. Half neck 18cm

5. Half-girth above the chest 44 cm

6. Bust 48cm

7. Half waist 37cm

8. Half hips 50 cm

9. Armhole depth 20.5 cm

IMPORTANT! All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a Chest Circumference (CG) of more than 80 cm.

Where to begin?

Before you start building the base pattern of the dress, decide on the silhouette. It is important for yourself to determine what kind of dress you want to sew: tight-fitting, tight-fitting or loose. Based on this, we will make an increase in the freedom of fitting the product.

We build a dress of an adjacent silhouette and take an increase in freedom of fitting to the half-girth of the chest by 1.5 cm.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern - calculation of auxiliary values

Let's calculate the auxiliary values ​​that we need when building a pattern:

Back Width (SHS). Formula for calculation: 1/8 OG + 5.5 cm = 17.5 cm

Armhole Width (SHPr). Formula for calculation: 1/8OG -1.5 cm = 10.5

Chest Width (WH). Formula for calculation: 1/4OG -4cm=20 cm

Armhole depth (GPr). We measure it or, to check the measurements, we calculate it according to the formula GPR \u003d 1 / 10OG + (10.5-12cm) \u003d 20-21.5. If the calculated value does not match the measured value, take the average between them.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 1-2

Step back from the top of the paper 10-15 cm down and put point A in the left corner. Draw a vertical line 100 cm long down from point A (the length of the dress according to the measurements). To the right of point A, draw a horizontal line with a length equal to 1/2 of the circumference of the chest according to the measure of +1.5 cm (increase in freedom of fitting) - points D and B are obtained - draw segments DC and BC.

Armhole line. From point A, lay down the Depth of the armhole according to the measure + 0.5 cm - points G and G1 are obtained. Draw a horizontal line.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 3-4

From point G to the right, set aside the Back Width + 0 cm (for freedom of fitting) and the Width of the armhole + 0.5 cm (for freedom of fitting), chest width + 1 cm. In total, we made an increase of 0 + 0.5 + 1 \u003d 1.5 cm - this is the increase that we have laid down above. From the obtained points, draw vertical lines up to the intersection with AB.

Waistline. From point A down, set aside the length of the back to the waist according to the measure - point T. Draw a segment TT1.

Hip line. Set aside 20 cm from point T down - the height of the hips according to the measure - point L. Draw a segment LL1.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 5-6

Side line. Divide the width of the armhole with an increase in half, draw a vertical line down from the division point to the intersection with DC - we got the side line. Divide the left and right auxiliary vertical lines of the armhole with crosses into 4 equal parts.

Back neckline. From point A, set aside 6.5 cm to the right (1/3 of the Half-girth of the neck according to the measure + 0.5 cm) and up 2 cm (for all sizes). Draw a curved line for the neckline of the back.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 7-8

Back shoulder. On the left auxiliary line of the armhole, set aside 1.5 cm from the top down. Connect points 2 (back neckline) and 1.5 (shoulder slope) with a straight line. Shoulder length measured - 13 cm.

Back armhole line. From the lower left corner (armhole width), draw a bisector of the angle 2 cm long (for all sizes) and draw the cutout of the back armhole using the pattern or freehand, based on the control points: point 13, the middle auxiliary division point, point 2, to the side line.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 9-10

Shelf lift. From the point G1, set aside 24.5 cm upwards (1/2 of the Half-girth of the chest according to the measurement + 0.5 cm) - point W. Draw a horizontal line from point W. Raise the auxiliary vertical line of the armhole (see Fig. 9).

Front neckline. From the W point to the left, set aside 6.5 cm (1/3 of the half-girth of the neck according to the measurement + 0.5 cm) and down 7.5 cm (1/3 of the half-girth of the neck according to the measurement + 1.5 cm). Build on the pattern (or by hand) the neckline of the front.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 11-12

Shoulder front to tuck. From point 6.5 (neck) set aside 4 cm to the left and 1 cm down (for all sizes). Draw a short slanted line.

From point 1 down, draw an auxiliary perpendicular with a dotted line to the line of the armhole ГГ1. Set aside 1 cm to the right and connect points 1-1 with a straight line (the right side of the chest tuck is built).

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 13-14

Chest tuck. Divide the right side of the chest tuck in half and draw a horizontal line 4 cm long from the dividing point (Half girth of the chest minus the half girth above the chest: 48-44 \u003d 4 cm). Through point 4 draw the left side of the chest tuck with a length = the length of the right side of the chest tuck (Fig. 13).

Front shoulder line. Draw an auxiliary dotted line from the top of the left side of the chest tuck to the upper point of dividing the auxiliary line of the back armhole.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 15-16

On the auxiliary dotted line, set aside 8 cm (13 cm (shoulder length according to measurements) minus 4 cm (shoulder length to the right side of the chest tuck) minus 1 cm) and down at a right angle 2 cm (for all sizes). Draw a shoulder line in front.

From the extreme point of the front shoulder, draw an auxiliary dotted line to the lower point of dividing the auxiliary line of the armhole, cut it in half (Fig. 16). From the lower right corner (armhole), draw a bisector 2 cm long.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 17-18

From the division point of the auxiliary dotted line, set aside at a right angle 1 cm to the right (Fig. 17). According to the pattern or by hand, cut the armhole in front along the control points: shoulder point, point 1, point 2, to the side.

Dart calculation:

We calculate the darts in this way: 1/2 of the chest circumference minus 1/2 of the waist circumference = 48-37 = 11 cm. This is the excess fabric around the waist, which we need to remove into the tucks. We remove 1/3 of the value obtained in the side tucks and 2/3 - in the back and front - a little more in the back and a little less in front.

Side darts: 11 cm / 3 = 3.6 cm (round up to 4 cm) (Fig. 18). IMPORTANT! The side lines are shifted to the left and right of the starting line (control of the hip circumference: 1/2 half-circumference of the hips by measure + 1 cm). Lack of volume on the hips + 1 cm divided in half and added to the back and shelf on the sides (from the hip line to the bottom of the product).

Tackle on the back 4 cm, on the front - 3 cm. Total 11 cm.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 19-20

Back tuck: divide the width of the back waist to the side in half and draw a vertical line from the dividing point to the armhole and hips. Draw a tuck as shown in Fig. 19.

Tail tuck in front. From the top of the chest tuck, draw an auxiliary perpendicular to the waist line. Draw a tuck as shown in Fig. twenty.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 21-22

ADVICE! If you have a narrow waist and a “kinky” back, the excess fabric can be removed in the middle seam along the back and an additional tuck (see Fig. 21 blue lines).

Rice. 22. Pattern in finished form. Reshoot separately the front and back patterns of the dress and proceed to modeling.

Note:

If you decide to sew a dress, the first thing to start with is to take measurements and build, according to which you can model any style. Today we will give you a step-by-step construction of a dress base pattern.
But for starters - .

To build a drawing of a pattern-base for a women's dress, you need to take measurements (size 48):

1. Bust 96cm
2. Girth above bust 88 cm
3. Waist 76cm
4. Hips 102 cm
5. hip height 20 cm
6. Front length to waist 47 cm
7. Back length to waist 43 cm
8. Shoulder length 12cm
9. Neck girth 38 cm
10. Center of the chest (distance between the high points of the chest) 22 cm
11. Armhole depth 20.5 cm
12. Dress length 100 cm

IMPORTANT! All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a Chest Circumference (CG) of more than 80 cm.

School of Sewing Anastasia Korfiati
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Where to begin?

Before you start building the base pattern of the dress, decide on the silhouette. It is important for yourself to determine what kind of dress you want to sew: tight-fitting, semi-tight or loose. Proceeding from this, make an increase in the freedom of fitting the product.

We build a dress of an adjacent silhouette and take an increase in freedom of fitting to the half-girth of the chest by 1.5 cm (see).

Auxiliary value calculation

Let's calculate the auxiliary values ​​that we need when building a pattern:

Back Width (SHS). Formula for calculation: 1/8 OG +5.5 cm = 17.5 cm

Armhole Width (SHPr). Formula for calculation: 1/8OG -1.5 cm = 10.5

Chest Width (WH). Formula for calculation: 1/4OG -4 cm = 20 cm

Armhole depth (GPr). We measure it or, to check the measurements, we calculate it according to the formula Gpr \u003d 1 / 10OG + 10.5 \u003d 20.5 cm. If the calculated value does not match the measured value, take the average between them.

Step back from the top of the sheet down 10-15 cm and put point A in the upper left corner. Draw a vertical line 100 cm long down from point A (the length of the dress according to the measurements). To the right of point A, draw a horizontal line with a length equal to 1/2 of the circumference of the chest according to the measure of +1.5 cm (increase in freedom of fitting) - points D and B are obtained - draw segments DC and BC.

Armhole line. From point A, lay down the Depth of the armhole according to the measure + 0.5 cm (increase in freedom of fitting from) - point G is obtained. Draw a horizontal line ГГ1.

From the point D to the right, set aside the Back Width + 0 cm (for freedom of fitting) and the Width of the armhole + 0.5 cm (for freedom of fitting), the Width of the chest + 1 cm. In total, we made an increase of 0 + 0.5 + 1 \u003d 1.5 cm - this is the increase that we laid above. From the obtained points, draw vertical lines up to the intersection with AB.

Waistline. From point A down, set the length of the back to the waist according to the measurement - point T. Draw a segment TT1.

Hip line. Set aside 20 cm from point T down - the height of the hips according to the measure - point L. Draw a segment LL1.

Side line. Divide the width of the armhole with the increase in half, from the division point, draw down the vertical line of the side to the intersection with DC. Divide the left and right auxiliary vertical lines of the armhole into 4 equal parts (red crosses).

Back neckline. From point A, set aside 6.8 cm to the right (1/6 of the circumference of the neck according to the measure + 0.5 cm) and up 2 cm (for all sizes). Build a curved line for the neckline of the back.

Back shoulder. On the left auxiliary line of the armhole, set aside 1.5 cm from the top down. Connect points 2 (back neckline) and 1.5 (shoulder slope) with a straight line, set aside along it Shoulder length by measurement + 1 cm = 12 + 1 = 13 cm In the process of sewing the product, the length of the back shoulder is slightly adjusted.

Back armhole line. From the lower left corner (width of the armhole), draw a bisector of the angle 2-2.5 cm long and or freehand draw the armhole of the back, based on the control points: point 13, the middle auxiliary division point, point 2, to the side line.

Shelf lift. From the point T1, set aside 47 cm upwards (The length of the front to the waist according to the measure) - the point W is obtained. From the point W, draw a horizontal line to the left. Extend the right vertical line of the armhole up (see Fig. 7).

Front neckline. From the W point to the left, set aside 6.8 cm (1/6 Neck circumference + 0.5 cm) and down 7.8 cm (1/6 Neck circumference + 1.5 cm). Draw the neckline of the front along the pattern (or by hand) (Fig. 8).

Shoulder front to tuck. From point 6.8 (neck), set aside 4 cm to the left and 1 cm down (for all sizes). Draw a short sloping line (Fig. 9).

From point 1 down, draw a segment 1-G2 to the armhole line (GG1) so that G1G2 \u003d 11 cm (1/2 measurements Center of the chest) - the right side of the chest tuck is built.

Chest tuck. Divide the right side of the chest tuck in half and draw a horizontal line 4 cm long from the dividing point (Half girth of the chest minus Half girth above the chest: 48-44 \u003d 4 cm). Pass through point 4 the left side of the breast tuck with a length equal to the length of the right side of the breast tuck (Fig. 10).

Front shoulder line. Draw an auxiliary dotted line from the top point of the left side of the chest tuck to the top point of dividing the auxiliary line of the back armhole (Fig. 11).

On the auxiliary dotted line, set aside 8 cm (12 cm (shoulder length according to the measurement) minus 4 cm (shoulder length to the right side of the chest tuck) and down at a right angle 2 cm (for all sizes). Draw a front shoulder line (Fig. 12) .

From the extreme point of the front shoulder, draw an auxiliary dotted line to the lower point of dividing the auxiliary line of the armhole, divide it in half (Fig. 13). Draw a bisector 2 cm long from the lower right corner (armhole).

From the division point of the auxiliary dotted line, set aside at a right angle 1 cm to the right (Fig. 13). According to the template or by hand, draw the armhole in front along the control points: point 2 (shoulder), point 1, point 2 (angle bisector), to the side line.

Dart calculation:

Darts are calculated as follows: 1/2 Bust minus 1/2 Waist = 48-38 = 10 cm. This excess fabric around the waist, which must be removed in the darts. We remove 1/3 of the obtained value into the side tucks and 2/3 - into the back and shelf - a little more in the back (4 cm) and a little less in the shelf (3 cm).

Side darts: 10 cm / 3 \u003d 3.3 cm (round - 1.5 cm in the back and in the shelf) (Fig. 14).

IMPORTANT! To calculate the lack of volume in the hips, we apply the formula: (Hip circumference minus Chest circumference) / 4 \u003d (102-96) / 4 \u003d 1.5 cm (set aside 1.5 cm along the hip line from the Side Line to the left and right and draw lines sides of the back and front of the dress.

Back tuck: divide the width of the back waist to the side seam in half and draw a vertical line from the dividing point to the armhole line and the hip line. Draw a tuck as shown in Fig. 15: divide the distance T-1.5 in half, put a cross and draw a vertical dotted line through it up and down. From the line of the armhole, lay down 3-4 cm, from the line of the hips up 2 cm. Build a back tuck with a width of 4 cm.

Tail tuck in front. Draw an auxiliary perpendicular from the top of the chest tuck to the waist line. From point G2, set aside 5-6 cm down and draw a tuck 3 cm deep as shown in fig. 15.

ADVICE! If you have a narrow waist and a "kinky" back, excess fabric can be removed in the middle seam along the back and an additional tuck (see Fig. 16 blue lines). To build an additional tuck in front, set aside 3 cm from the lower right corner of the armhole to the right and draw a vertical dotted line down to the hip line. From the armhole line along the auxiliary vertical dotted line, set aside 7-8 cm down, from the hip line up - 1.5 cm. Build a tuck 2 cm deep.

For additional fitting along the middle seam of the back, build a tuck 1-1.5 cm deep and connect the resulting point with points L and G with a smooth line.

Rice. 17. Basic pattern of the back and front in finished form

If necessary, build or

The dress base pattern is a tool with which you can model a dress of absolutely any style. This article provides step-by-step instructions on how to build a basic pattern, make a sleeve model, and also provides an example of modeling based on the received drawings.

Dress measurements

To create a pattern you will need:

• length of the product;
• back length to waist;
• shoulder length;
• half-girth around the neck;
• half-girth above the chest (removed over the chest);
• half-girth on the chest;
• half waist;
• half-girth on the hips;
• armhole height.

Building a dress pattern

This is what the drawing itself looks like, to which this instruction is attached. Focus on it if necessary.

Pattern formulas

• To calculate the width of the back: 1/8 of the circumference of the chest +5.5 cm (for all sizes).
• To calculate the width of the armhole: 1/8 of the circumference of the chest - 1.5 cm (for all sizes).
• To calculate chest width: 1/4 chest circumference - 4 cm (for all sizes).

There is also a formula for calculating the depth of the armhole, but the data obtained through it is inaccurate in most cases. Therefore, if you want the dress to sit like a glove, then measure the armhole yourself, without using additional calculations.

Before you start building a dress, you need to understand what silhouette it will be: loose, fitted or tight. Based on this, you need to decide on the increase in freedom of fitting. Look at the table and take the data that suits you. However, it is worth remembering that for a very tight dress, you need to choose elastic fabrics that stretch a lot. It is impossible to get such a silhouette from non-stretching materials.

1. Draw a rectangle ABDC, where the height is the length of the product, and the width is the half-girth of the chest + an increase in fit. For example, the half-girth of the chest is 42 cm, then if you want to sew an outfit of a semi-adjacent silhouette, you need to take an increase from 1.5-2 cm: 42 + 2 = 44 cm. And so on.
2. From point A, measure down the height of the armhole, not forgetting to add an increase in freedom of fit, mark the place with point G. From it, check the straight line until it touches side BC and set G1.
3. From point D to the right side, measure the width of the back, adding an increase in fit according to the table. From the mark to the right, measure the width of the armhole. Draw perpendiculars to AB.
4. I'll cut it in half. From it, draw a straight line down to the very base. This is the side line.
5. Divide each of the two armhole lines obtained into 4 equal segments, measuring the crosses.
6. From point A to the right side, measure: 1/3 of the half circumference along the neck + 0.5 cm, and raise the point along the right angle by 2 cm.
7. Point A and 2 are smoothly connected by a curved line, forming the neck of the back.
8. On the back armhole line where the crosses were marked, measure down 1 cm from above if the shoulders are straight, or 2 cm if sloping. From point 2 (neck) through mark 1 (2), draw a straight line equal to the shoulder line, taking into account an increase of 0.5 cm.
9. From the bottom corner of the armhole, measure 2 cm at a right angle and indicate point 2.
10. Draw the armhole, passing through: the shoulder point, the second and third auxiliary marks, point 2 and the top of the side line.
11. Now move on to the front of the dress. Draw a straight line from point G1 up: 1/2 half-girth along the chest (without increments) + 0.5 cm. Set point W. Draw a line from the last to the left side, while increasing the auxiliary line of the armhole so that the last and the line from point W are connected .
12. From the W point to the left, measure: 1/3 of the half-girth along the neck + 0.5 cm (draw the same measurement from the W point inside the pattern, dividing the angle into equal parts). From the intended point, measure 4 cm. From mark 4 down, measure 1 cm and connect to the edge of the neck.
13. From the W point down, measure: 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 1.5 cm. Connect the three marks with a curved smooth line, outlining the front neck.
14. From point 1 (shoulder of the shelf), draw a straight line down to chest level, shifting the end point 1 cm to the right. This is the right side of the chest tuck.
15. Divide the drawn line equally, and from the center, at a right angle, draw the difference between the half-girths along the chest above the chest.
16. The missing side of the chest tuck is drawn from the base of the right, through the point of difference in the half-girth of the chest. Its length is identical to the right.
17. Connect the top of the left tuck with a dotted line to the upper mark of the division of the armhole on the back. On the line drawn from the top of the tuck, measure: shoulder length - 4 cm. Lower the mark 2 cm lower and connect it to the top of the left tuck.
18. From the point of the shoulder (2), lower the dotted line, connecting it with the lowest point of the division of the armhole of the shelf. Divide the dotted segment in half, and measure 1 cm from the division point to the right.
19. In the lower corner of the armhole of the shelf, divide in half, set aside 2 cm.
20. With a neat curved line, draw the armhole of the shelf, through the points: 2, 1, the lower division point, 2, the middle of the side.

On this, the construction of the top of the dress comes to an end. Next, start building the rest of the pattern.

1. From point A, measure down the length of the back. Mark with a point T, and lay a horizontal line to side BC, marking T1. This is the waistline.
2. Measure 20-22 cm down from the T point and mark with the L point (the indicator is relevant for all sizes). Draw a horizontal line to side BC and set point L1. This is the hip line.
3. Calculate the darts. Half bust - half waist. The resulting difference should be closed in tucks. This is done according to the following scheme: 1/3 goes into the side tucks, the rest is divided between the back and front, while a little more than a shelf is always removed from the back.
4. At the place where the side line intersects with the TT1 line, measure the borders of the tucks to the right and left. Connect the marked points with the mark of the middle of the armhole with a straight line. From the waist line, round the hips at the side line, drawing it to the base. This creates a side seam line.
5. Divide the width of the back in half and draw a straight line down to the level of the thigh. At the waistline, measure the darts on each side. Measure 3-4 cm from the armhole line along the tuck line, and step back 2 cm from the hip line. Connect the marks that have arisen, drawing the back tuck.
6. Line up the front of the dress. From the bottom of the chest tuck, draw a straight line to the thigh line. At waist level on each side, set aside a shelf tuck measurement. Step back 5-6 cm from above along the drawn line. Connect the dots, forming a tuck.

The base of the dress pattern is completely ready! Now you can proceed to the most pleasant, to cutting and sewing the product itself.

Sleeve pattern for a dress

Some dresses require sleeves. Having built a sleeve pattern once, you can model different styles, including the popular lantern sleeve.

To create a drawing you will need:

• back length;
• shoulder length;
• 1/2 neck circumference;
• 1/2 chest circumference;
• 1/2 circle above the chest;
• 1/2 hip circumference;
• the length of the sleeve;
• 1/2 of the circumference of the wrist.

1. Draw a rectangle ABCD. Lines AB and DC are equal: 1/3 of the semicircle along the chest + 1 cm x 2. Lines AD and BC are equal to the length of the future sleeve.
2. From point A, measure down 3/4 of the height of the armhole. Mark with a point P and draw a straight line until it touches the side BC, marking with a point P1.
3. Divide the line AB into four identical parts and lay segments from the identified points to the DC side. Name the points as shown in the diagram.
4. Connect point O with a dotted line to P and P1. On the line of intersection O1H, put a point O3.
5. On the segment O1H, raise the intersection point O3 1.5 cm higher and designate it as O5.
6. Divide segment PO3 in half and measure down 0.5 cm, marking 0.5 with a dot.
7. Divide the segment O3O in half and measure up 2 cm, marking the dot 2.
8. Divide the segment OO4 in half and set aside 1.5 cm upwards, marking with a dot 1.5.
9. Divide O4P1 in half and measure down 2 cm.
10. Connect the marked marks with a curved smooth line, as shown in the image.

The sleeve pattern is ready. If you want to make it shorter, just move the bottom line to the required distance, as shown in the diagram.

To narrow the sleeve, on both sides of the bottom of the sleeve, measure half the difference in the width of the sleeve and the wrist. And then draw lines from the armhole to the points obtained, as seen in the diagram.

Dress Pattern: Modeling

Now the promised simulation example. Many consider this process to be complicated and subject only to professionals, but this is far from the case, and now you will see it.

Consider how a pattern of a dress with embossed seams "Princess" is built, based on the existing one.

1. The darts must be moved: 3 cm to the right on the back, and 2 cm to the left on the shelf.
2. On both halves, retreat 6 cm along the armhole.
3. With a smooth line, connect point 6 with the tops of the tucks, and draw lines from the ends of the latter to the hem of the dress.
4. From the point of the chest tuck, cut a piece so that it touches the 6-2 curved line. Along this line, the pattern will need to be cut to close the large chest tuck.
5. Cut out the pattern and then close the large chest dart. The resulting small tuck must be closed already when transferring parts to the fabric.

You need to cut out the details according to this principle:

With the help of such a dress, you can visually correct the figure, especially if you choose two materials that contrast in color. For example, tailor the sides from black fabric, and the center of the back and front from beige.

As you can see, modeling is not at all complicated, but, on the contrary, a rather entertaining creative process. Turn on your imagination at 100% and create unique, inimitable masterpieces!

I thought about making myself a little black dress. I invite you to do this with me.

To build a basic dress pattern, we need the following measurements:

OSH - neck girth ( POSH 18 cm)
OG - chest girth ( POG 46 cm)
OG1 - centimeter tape runs along the shoulder blades, armpits and lies along the line above the breasts ( LL1 43 cm)
FROM - waist circumference ( POT 37 cm)
OB - hip circumference ( POB 50 cm)
DTS - back length ( 39 cm)
DR - sleeve length ( 60 cm)
RTA - front waist length ( 37 cm)
Dpl - shoulder length ( 13 cm)
ШС - back width (36 cm)
ShP - front width. We measure at the most convex points of the front from the point of articulation of the body and left hand to the point of articulation of the body and right hand ( 37 cm)
CG is the center of the chest. We measure along a horizontal line between the most convex points of the breasts. We write down half the value ( 9 cm)
VG - chest height (25 cm)
CI is the length of the product, in this case the length of the dress. It is measured at the back along the back from the waist line along the spine to the waist, and then down to the length you need (100 cm).

Allowances for loose fit:
5 cm - along the chest line
2 cm - along the line of the hips
1 cm - along the waist line

We start the pattern by building a back pattern

On a sheet of paper, draw a vertical line (the center of the back) and at a right angle build an upper horizontal line (the neck line).

Define the line of the hips. Down from point T we set aside 1/2 DTS and denote the new point by the letter B.
39/2=19.5 (cm)

Let's draw a line from t.B to line BH1 and put v.B1.

Let's draw a cut of the neck. To the right of point A, set aside 1/3 plus POSH 0.5 cm and put v.A3.
18/3 plus 0.5=6.5 (cm)

Up from point A3, set aside the value of 1/10 POSH plus 0.8 and draw v.A4.
18/10 plus 0.8= 2.6 (cm)

From point A4 we will draw a segment at an angle of 45 degrees to the line AB. The length of the segment is 1/10 POSH-0.3 cm. We put v.A5.
18/10-0.3=0.5 (cm)

We connect points A, A5, A4 with a curve.

Let's build the shoulder section of the dress. Down from point A1, we set aside a segment that is equal to:
2.5 cm - normal shoulders
3.5 cm - sloping shoulders
1.5 cm - high shoulders

I have normal shoulders, so I choose the value - 2.5 cm.

Set aside 2.5 cm down from point A1 and put etc..

Now let's connect points A4 and P. From point A4 towards point P, we will postpone the measurement of Dpl, adding 2 cm to the future tuck and set t.P1.
13 plus 2=15 (cm)

Now from t.A4 on the line A4P1 to the right we set aside 4cm and put t.O. Draw a line down from this point, which will be equal to 8 cm and put point O1.

On the line A4P1 from t.O to the right, set aside 2 cm and put t.O2. Connect points O and O2. The segment O2 O should be the same as O1 O. Where the resulting segment went beyond point O2, we put v.O3.

Let's connect t.O3 and t.P1.

Determine the depth of the hole. Down from t.P., set aside 1/4 POG plus 7 cm - for a normal figure (or 7.5 cm - for a stooped figure, or 6.5 cm - for a kinky figure) and set t.G.
46/4 plus 7.5= 19 (cm)

Through t.G we draw a parallel line of the line AB, put down points G1, G2, G3.

We recheck the received value. To do this, the centimeter tape must be attached to the shoulder line and measured down 19 cm. This should be the point of contact of the arm to the body.