These charming tapered trousers are the perfect fashionable combi partner to any top or jacket. Not a single fashionista can do without such trousers. Shortened and tapered at the bottom, the trousers perfectly fit the figure due to soft folds and at the same time allow you to demonstrate beautiful shoes. Combine these trousers with a short jacket that matches the color - and a spectacular look is ready!

Pattern of tapered trousers - details

Rice. 1-2. Sketch of skinny pants front and back

Skinny Pants Pattern - Modeling

The pattern of skinny trousers is modeled according to. The length from the waist is about 97 cm, the width of the legs along the bottom is 29 cm. On the pattern-base of women's trousers, apply modeling lines as shown in Fig. 3. Pattern of skinny trousers - modeling the front and back halves.

IMPORTANT! The waist line of the trousers is underestimated, so before you start modeling the trousers, set aside 3 cm from the waist line down (on the front and back halves of the pattern-base of the trousers), draw a new low waist line, cut along the line.

Rice. 3. Pattern of skinny trousers - modeling the front and back halves

Modeling the front half of the trousers

Draw the pocket entry line, leaving 4 cm along the waistline to the right and 14 cm down, and pocket burlap. Turn the tuck into a pleat. Make an increase for a one-piece valance 3-4 cm wide and about 14 cm long (for sewing a zipper).

Taper the bottom of the trousers to 14 cm, and shorten to your measurements (the length of the trousers depends on your height).

For the second fold, additional volume is needed. To do this, cut the pattern along the line of the arrow and spread it 4 cm apart - you got a second fold and additional volume on the hips.

Modeling the back half of the trousers

Narrow the back half of the trousers to 15 cm and shorten. The width of the back leg at the bottom should be 1-2 cm more than the width of the front leg at the bottom. Draw pocket entry lines 15 cm wide and 1.5 cm high.

Pattern of tapered trousers - cutting

On fig. 4. details of the cut of skinny trousers are presented. Please note that the detachable barrel, one-piece with pocket burlap, is cut out of a plain black fabric. Fabric consumption for trousers is 1.4-1.5 m with a width of 145 cm.

Rice. 4. Pattern of skinny trousers - cut details

From the main fabric cut out:

1. The front half of the trousers - 2 parts
2. The back half of the trousers - 2 parts
3. The belt of the front half of the trousers is 4 parts 8 cm wide (5 cm in finished form) and the length along the tail section of the front half, taking into account the entry into the fastener.
4. The belt of the back half of the trousers is 4 parts 8 cm wide (5 cm in finished form) and length along the tail cut of the back half, excluding the tuck.
5. Side pocket burlap - 2 parts
6. Back pocket burlap - 4 pieces 18 cm wide x 20 cm long
7. Back pocket lining - 2 pieces 5 cm wide and 18 cm long

From plain black fabric cut out:

Cutting barrel, one-piece with burlap - 2 parts

Seam allowances - 1.5 cm, on the bottom of the trousers - 2 cm.

How to sew skinny pants

On the front halves of the trousers, perform. On the back halves of the trousers, perform.

Lay the pleats on the front halves in the direction indicated by the arrows.

Sweep and stitch the side and step sections, the middle seam, leaving an open area for attaching the zipper. Front .

External details of the belt. Stitch the reinforced and non-reinforced parts of the belt together along the side seams and the middle seam of the back at an angle (in order for the belt to fit snugly around the waist, the connecting seams should be laid in such a way that the belt along the top cut is narrower than along the bottom, so each seam should be laid at 0 .5 cm to the left to the top of the intended line). Cut and iron the allowances.

Stitch the outer reinforced part of the belt into the trousers, aligning it along the side seams, put the unreinforced part of the belt face to face on the stitched-in part, sew along the upper allowance and short allowances, unscrew, sweep cleanly, tuck open allowances and baste. Sew the belt along the edge, sew on the loops according to the markings.

Overcast the bottom allowance of the trousers, fold it over and hem it manually with blind stitches.

Your skinny pants are ready, wear them with pleasure! You will find even more new interesting ideas on the Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School website. Subscribe to free lessons and sew fashionable clothes with us!

This page will describe the easiest and most understandable way to build a trouser base pattern. It is the base drawing for all subsequent changes in the modeling of trousers. Also, a methodology is described with a detailed description of the construction of the design of the drawing of the basic pattern of trousers.

Pants, like skirts, are classic clothes and an integral part in the wardrobe of every woman or girl. This type of waist product can be close-fitting, tight-fitting, straight, pleated or draped, and so on. But at the heart of drawing up the drawing is the design of the pattern of trousers, which is called the base or base. As an example, we take a pattern with moderate freedom of fit.

The length of the trousers depends on the model, the type of product (blinders or breeches), as well as the width of the trousers and the height of the heel. There are many different methods by which a drawing of a trouser product is built. The variant of the trousers pattern described below is built according to the Italian method, with a perfect fit. The drawing of the waist product is built without allowances for seams and the hem of the product along the bottom line.

Initial data of dimensional characteristics (measurements) for a pattern of trousers of size 44.

As initial data, the values ​​​​of measurements, allowances for freedom of fitting and additional measurements of sections of the width of the intended product, which are determined by the model, are used.

In order for the product sewn by you to sit well on the figure, it is better to take measurements individually. How to measure the human body correctly and what measurements will be needed, see.

When constructing a drawing of trousers, you replace the measurements that are recorded in table 1 with your dimensional characteristics.

When calculating some formulas for this type of belt product, allowances for a free fit along sections of the waist line are used ( Fri) and hips ( Pb). See table 2 for details.

Instructions for constructing the main lines consistent with each other. The basic grid of the pattern of trousers.

To begin with, they build a drawing of the base grid with the main lines (waist, hips, bottom, knee, seat height, halves ironing line (arrow)). How these lines are coordinated with each other, see Figure 1.

Then, step by step, we will consider the progress of building a drawing of a trouser grid, which is built from two separate halves (front and back) - these are the main details of the product. When constructing a pattern, for clarity of the example, we will use measurements of size 44 for a proportionally folded figure, see table 1.

Mesh back half, figure 2.

They begin building the initial grid structure, stepping back from the corner of the left side a few centimeters.

In the upper left corner we build two mutually perpendicular lines with an intersection at a point BUT.

Bottom line.

vertical line AN, which is equal to the measure Dbr(length trousers).
AN = Dbr= 98 cm.

Waist line (attached belt).

We build the waistline from BUT horizontal straight line to the right.

Hip line.

AB = Wb

Seat height line.

AZ = Sun(seat height) = 26.5 cm.
Depending on how tight the trousers should be in the groin area, you can add or subtract 1 cm from the seat height. For tight-fitting trousers made of elastic fabrics 26.5 - 1 cm = 25.5 cm. 27.5 cm.

Knee line.

AK \u003d Dk (length of the knee line) \u003d 59 cm.

The width of the line of the hips of the mesh of the back half.

BB1 = (Pob +Pb
From the found point B1 we build vertical lines in opposite directions until they intersect with the horizontal line of the waist and down to the horizontal line of the height of the seat. Points of intersection are denoted A1, Z1.

Expansion of the base grid of the back half.

from point Z1 build a straight line to the right and put a point Z2.
Z1Y2 = BB1: 3 + 2.5 = 25.5cm: 3 + 2.5cm = 11cm.

The line of ironing the middle of the mesh of the back half.

The position of the fold line ("arrow") is determined by dividing the segment R2 in half, we get Z3, from which you need to draw a vertical line to the waist line and to the level of the bottom.
RJ2 \u003d BB1 + R1R2= 25.5cm + 11cm = 36.5cm.
R3 = R2: 2 \u003d 36.5 cm: 2 \u003d 18.25 cm.
A vertical line drawn through Z3 when cutting, indicates the direction of the shared thread.

Detailed description of the pattern of the back half of the trousers Figure 3.

Bevel at the waistline.

On the basic grid of the back half (Fig. 1) along the waistline from the point A1 to the left side we retreat a value equal to the measure ( GT2) waist depth 2 at the back we get FROM.A1C = GT2= 4 cm.
The balance of the trousers on the height of the bevel.
CC1= (balance) = 1cm.

The sum of the solution of the tucks along the waistline of the two halves of the trousers.

We find the sum (side, front and back) of the tucks along the waist line.
∑B(sum of tucks) = ( Pob - Sweat) - (GT2 + Vzh) \u003d (50 cm - 37 cm) - (4 cm + 0.5 cm) \u003d 8.5 cm.

The width (opening) of the side tuck on the back half of the product.

First, we calculate the amount of the side tuck solution ( ∑ side).
∑ side(sum of side tuck) = ∑B(sum of tucks): 2 = 8.5 cm: 2 = 4.25 cm.
Then we calculate the width of the side tuck of the back half AC2.
AC2 = ∑side(sum of side tuck): 2 = 4.25 cm: 2 = 2.13 cm.
The side of the side tuck that is included in the side seam of the trousers is made out with a smooth curved line through the points C2, B.

Location of the tuck.

The distance of the middle of the tuck C2B is calculated by the formula:
C2B = C2C(we measure from the drawing of the back half): 2 - 1 cm = 19, 37 cm: 2 - 1 cm = 8.7 cm.
From a point IN we build a vertical down to the intersection with the line of the hips.

Opening width and back tuck length.

Dart length: BB2= 13.5 cm.
Dart opening width: B1B3 = ∑B(sum of tucks) * 0.3 = 8.5 * 0.3 = 2.55 cm and then it turns out that the sides B1B = B3B = B1B3: 2 = 2.55 cm: 2 = 1.28 cm.
We draw the sides of the tuck by equalizing.
We draw the waist line of the back half with a curved line point by point C2, B1, B2, B3, C1.

Seat cut.

We build the bisector of the angle B, Z1, Z2. On the bisector from the point Z1 set aside a segment with a constant value denoted Z4.
Z1Z4= 3 cm (constant).
We cut the seat of a smooth concave through C1, B1, Z4, Z2.

Pants Hem Width

The width of the trousers along the bottom line is calculated in this way, we take the value Shbrn(the width of the trousers along the bottom) and divide between two halves (front and back).
H2H1 = Shbrn(width of trousers on the bottom): 2 = 42cm: 2 = 21 cm.

The width of the bottom of the back half.

H3H1 = H3H2 = H2H1: 2 = 21cm: 2 = 10.5 cm.

Inseam line.

I2, H1. If the product is more fitting to the thigh, then the cut is built with a deflection in the middle of 3-4 cm or more.

Step cut (seam).

For our example, we make a step cut of a straight line through points I2, H1.

The line of the knee of the back half.

The width of the trousers at the knee level in our example is determined by the intersection of two inclined lines of the side and step cuts when connected to the bottom line.

In other cases, the width of the knee is determined by the model. It can be more, less or less than the width of the trousers along the bottom, and can also be equal to it. The dotted line in the drawing shows the variations in the width of the knee line when it is the wound of the underline.

Shbrk(Width of trousers at the knee line) 42cm = Shbrn(Width of trousers at the bottom) 42cm.

The width of the trousers along the knee line between the two halves (front and back) is calculated in this way, we take the value Shbrk we divide in half.
Shbrk: 2 = 42cm: 2 = 21 cm.

We distribute the width into two halves to the right and left of the vertical line of ironing the middle (arrow) of the back half by 10.5 cm.
Product bottom line H1H3 H2 a straight line is built, see Figure 3.

Grid drawing of the front half of the trousers Fig 4.

They begin building the initial grid structure, stepping back from the corner of the right side a few centimeters from the edge and from the top.

In the upper right corner we build two mutually perpendicular lines with an intersection at a point BUT. from point BUT down determine the position of contour lines from points B, I, K, N.

Waist line.

We build from BUT horizontal line to the left.

Hip line.

AB = WB(measuring thigh height) = 19 cm.

Seat height line.

AY = BC(seat height) = 26.5 cm.

Knee line.

AK = DC(length of the knee line) = 59 cm.

Bottom line.

Section AN equal to the length of the pants.
AN = Dbr= 98 cm.

The width of the mesh along the line of the hips of the front half.

BB1 = (Pob + Pb): 2 = (50 + 1 cm) : 2 = 25.5 cm.

Expanding the mesh along the step line of the front half.

From received Z1 build a straight line to the left and put Z2.
Z1Y2 = BB1: 3 + 0.5 = 25.5 cm: 3 + 0.5 cm = 9 cm.

The line of ironing the middle of the mesh of the front half.

The location of the fold line ("arrows") is determined by dividing the segment R2 in half, we get Z3, through which to draw a vertical line from the waist line to the level of the bottom. At the intersection we get points: A2 And H1.

R3 = (BB1 + Z1Z2): 2 \u003d (25.5 + 9 cm) : 2 \u003d 17.25 cm.
We draw a vertical line through R3. This line when cutting indicates the direction of the shared thread.

Pattern of the front half of the trousers Fig 5.

Leading the line of the middle (bevel) along the waist.

On the base grid of the front half from the point A1 to the right we retreat an amount equal to Vzh(protrusion of the abdomen) and get C1.
A1C1 \u003d Vzh (Protrusion of the abdomen) \u003d 0.5 cm.

Value A1C1 depends on the protrusion of the abdomen, the larger the bulge, the smaller this segment. Therefore, for a figure with a large protrusion of the abdomen, the bevel line is drawn to the left of the vertical A1B.

We draw the bevel line with an inclined straight line connecting the letters C1 And B1. On this sloping line from C1 down we retreat a distance equal to the balance of the trousers. The resulting point is denoted by a beech FROM.
C1C= (pants balance) = 1cm.

Side tuck solution.

AC2 = AC2(take the value from the back half) = 2.13 cm

Auxiliary line.

points FROM And C2 connect with an auxiliary line.

The location of the traveling tuck on the front half of the pattern.

On the auxiliary SS2 find a point IN.
Distance C2B = CC2: 2 - 1 cm.
Draw a vertical line from IN down to the hip line.

The length and width of the opening of the front tuck.

Solution B1B3 = ∑B(sum of darts) * 0, 2 = 8.5 cm * 0, 2 = 1.7 cm.
Sides of the tuck: B1B = BB3 = B1B3: 2 = 1.7cm: 2 = 0.85 cm.
Front tuck length BB2= 8 cm (standard).

We make out the tuck by equalizing the sides: increasing the smaller side along the length of the larger one.
B1B2 = B3B2.
We draw the waist line by points C, B1, B2, B3, C2.

Seat cutting line.

Draw a bisector Z4 corner with dots B1, Z1, Z2.
Z1Z4= 3cm (constant value).
Draw a section of the seat of a concave curve point by point C, B1, Z4, Z2.

Side seam line of the front half.

We draw the line of the side cut (seam) according to the following symbols: B, H2 we connect a straight line, and a section with points B, C2 smooth convex line to the right. For a figure with developed hips in the form of a riding breeches, a seam gap B, H2 draw through a dot I.

Inseam line.

For three-dimensional trousers, we draw up a step cut line, connect it with a straight line I2, H1. If the product is more fitting thigh, then the cut is built with a deflection in the middle of 3 - 4 cm or more.

The width of the trousers of the front half along the bottom.

The width of the trousers on the bottom is determined by the model of the product. In our example, it is equal to the measure taken Shbrn the value is distributed in halves to the left and to the right.
H1H2 = Shbrn: 2 = 42cm: 2 = 21 cm.
H1H3 = H3H2 = H1H2(width of trousers in front): 2 \u003d 21: 2 \u003d 10.5 cm.

bottom line

Product bottom line H1H2 see figure 5.

The width of the trousers along the line of the knee of the front half.

The width of the trousers at the knee level in our example is determined by the intersections of the inclined lines of the side and step cuts when connected to the bottom line.

Knee Width

Defined by the model. It can be more, less or less than the width of the trousers along the bottom, and can also be equal to it. The dotted line in the drawing shows a variant of the width of the more fitting trousers along the knee line.
Shbrk 42cm = Shbrn 42cm

Pants hem width

It is calculated as follows: we take the value divided between the two halves (front and back) Shbrk.
Shbrk: 2 = 42cm: 2 = 21 cm.
We distribute the width into two halves, right and left from the vertical line of the middle of the ironing of the front (arrow), 10.5 cm each.

Hip control.

After the two halves are built, you need to check the correspondence with the measurement Thigh girth = 56 cm. To do this, you need to measure the width of the two halves (front and back) horizontally below the step line from the drawing and add the result. The resulting values ​​\u200b\u200badd up the result should not be less than (Obdra).

Control signs.

On two halves of trousers, control marks are placed along the side cuts at the drop of the hip line, knees and along the step cuts at the levels of the knee line.

In today's article, we will consider a pattern of women's jeans that fit the figure tightly and emphasize its harmony.

This pattern can also be used to build a variety of tight trousers.

Before you start building a jeans pattern, you need to take measurements from the figure. See how to do it right.

As an example, let's use the following dimensional features of a female figure:

Building the front half of women's jeans

1. Draw a vertical line with a vertex at point T, from which put the following values ​​down:

Waist line level: TT 1 = 1-1.5 cm (the value depends on the shape of the hips).

Seat height: TH = measure BC - 3 cm = 27 cm - 3 cm = 24 cm.

Length of trousers to the knee: YK = 1/2 DN - 1/10 DN, where

DN \u003d measure DsB - segment TY \u003d 106 cm - 24 cm \u003d 82 cm

YK \u003d 1/2 82 cm - 1/10 82 cm \u003d 32.8 cm.

Jeans length: TN = measure DsB = 106 cm.

The final length is determined by fitting, see how to do this.

The position of the hip line: JB = 1/10 measurements of the SB + 3 cm = 1/10 50 cm + 3 cm = 8 cm.

Through points T 1, B, I, K, H, draw horizontal lines to the right.

2. The width of the front half of the jeans at the hip level: BB 1 \u003d 1/2 measurements of the SB - 1 cm \u003d 1/2 50 cm - 1 cm \u003d 24 cm.

3. Draw a vertical line through point B 1, at the intersection with horizontal lines we get T 2, I 1.

4. The step width of the front half of the jeans: B 1 B 2 \u003d 1/10 measurements of the SB + 0-0.5 cm \u003d 1/10 50 cm + 0.5 cm \u003d 5.5 cm.

For very tight trousers, a smaller increase is selected.

5. The position of the front fold of the trousers is determined by dividing the segment BB 2 in half, we get B 3, through which to draw a vertical line from the waist to the bottom. At the intersection we get points K 1 and H 1.

6. The width of the jeans at the bottom level: H 1 H 2 \u003d H 1 H 3 \u003d 1/2 measurements of SHN - 0.5-1 cm (the amount of offset of the side and step sections) \u003d 1/2 20 cm - 1 cm \u003d 9 cm .

For tight trousers, a smaller amount of side and crotch offset is better for visual perception.

7. From points H 2, H 3 draw up:

• auxiliary side line to B;
• auxiliary step line to B 2.

We get points I 2, I 3.

8. To narrow the trousers in the knee area, lay 1.5-2 cm inward from the auxiliary side and step line, points K 2, K 3 are obtained.

9. To build middle line put aside the front of the jeans from T 2 to the left 1-1.5 cm, depending on the value of the waist circumference or the shape of the trousers, we get T 3.

Set aside 0.5 cm from B 1 to the right.

From I 1 upwards set aside 1/2 of the segment I 1 I 3, we get a point a, which we connect with a straight line to I 3.

Draw the middle line through T 3, 0.5, I 3.

10. To build a waist line from T 3, set aside 1/2 measurements ST + 1 cm to the left.

T 3 T 4 \u003d 1/2 38 cm + 1 cm \u003d 20 cm.

From T 4 set aside the top 1-1.5 cm (the length of the segment TT 1), we get T 5.

Make the top cut of the front half of women's jeans as shown in the figure.

11.Side cut arrange by connecting points T 5, B, I 2 with a slightly convex curve, points I 2, K 2, H 2 - with a smooth concave curve.

12. Checkout step cut through I 3 , K 3 , H 3 a smooth concave curve.

Building the back half of women's jeans

The back half of the jeans is built on the drawing of the front.

1. Expansion at the level of the knee and bottom: K 2 K 4 \u003d K 3 K 5 \u003d 2 cm, H 2 H 4 \u003d H 3 H 5 \u003d 2 cm.

If in the drawing of the front half the offset of the side and step sections was 0.5 cm (see paragraph 6), then the expansion at the level of the knee and bottom will be 1 cm.

Through the points obtained, draw side and step sections parallel to the same sections of the front of the jeans.

2. Set aside 1-2 cm from B 3 to the right to determine the position of the back fold of the jeans, we get B 4.

This value also determines the amount of inclination of the back of the trousers:

• a larger value provides a more direct position of the upper section of the back of the trousers (for flatter buttocks);
• a smaller value means a greater slope of the upper section (for more prominent buttocks).

3. Set aside 1-3 cm from I 2 (here 1.5 cm), we get a 1.

A larger value is set aside when building jeans for a figure with flat buttocks, a smaller one for figures with convex buttocks.

4. Width of the back half of the jeans (Wz): 1/2 measurements SB + 1 cm = 1/2 50 cm + 1 cm = 26 cm.

5. From B 4 set aside to the right 1/4 Shz + 0.5-1 cm.

B 4 B 5 \u003d 1/4 26 cm + 1 cm \u003d 7.5 cm.

6. Connect the straight points a 1, B 5 and draw an auxiliary perpendicular up and down through B 5.

7. At right angles to the auxiliary perpendicular to the intersection with the line of the hips, set aside the value of Shz minus 0.5-1 cm.

B 6 B 7 \u003d 26 cm - 1 cm \u003d 25 cm.

8. Measure the segment B 7 B 4 and transfer the resulting value from B 4 to the right.

B 7 B 4 \u003d B 4 B 8.

9. To build step cut back of the trousers connect B 8 with K 5.

Measure the segment K 3 I 3 on the front of the trousers and set aside the found value minus the amount of stretching of the material equal to 0-0.5 cm from K 5 upwards, we get I 4.

K 5 I 4 \u003d K 3 I 3 - 0-0.5 cm.

Draw a step cut with a smooth concave line.

10. Connect the straight line K 4 with B 7 and extend it up to the intersection with the waist, we get T 6.

11. Measure the distance from T 6 to K 1 and transfer the resulting value plus 2-3 cm from K 1 up to the intersection with the middle line of the back of the jeans, we get T 7.

K 1 T 7 \u003d K 1 T 6 + 2-3 cm.

12. To build a waist, connect T 6 with T 7.

Set aside 0-0.5 cm from T 7 to the left, we get T 8.

The length of the upper cut of the back of the jeans: T 8 T 9 \u003d 1/2 ST measurements - 1 cm + 1-1.5 cm (dart solution) \u003d 1/2 38 cm - 1 cm + 1.5 cm \u003d 19.5 cm .

13. In the middle of the segment T 8 T 9, draw a tuck 6-8 cm long with a solution of 1-1.5 cm (in our example, 1.5 cm).

14. From T 9, draw a small perpendicular upwards and transfer the length and shape of the side cut of the front half, while the side cut of the back half will be above the waist line.

15. Checkout middle line through T 8, B 6, I 4.

16. Checkout side cut through T 10, B 7 a smooth convex curve, B 7, K 4 - a smooth concave curve.

Drawing control

It is important to compare the size on the drawing of the trousers in the Thigh Girth area with the dimension Lunch + 3-4 cm.

Modeling

1. Draw the contours of the pockets in accordance with the drawing.

2. Draw a yoke on the back half and a patch pocket parallel to the line of the yoke.

3. Cut off the yoke, align the sides of the tuck on it and align the top and bottom cuts.

4. Transfer the rest of the tuck on the bottom of the back half of the jeans to the side cut.

5. Combine the details of the trousers and check the pairing of lines. The warp thread runs along the front and back folds of the jeans.