The process of making a dress, blouse, jacket or coat with a stand-up collar, cut in one piece with the back and shelves, is relatively complicated and requires certain tailoring skills.

The fact is that the creation of a beautiful form of a one-piece rack is difficult to achieve only by constructive means. Additional molding with the help of a suture and a bracing is desirable. But far from all fabrics with an admixture of synthetic fibers, which are currently widespread, can be molded by means of the WTO.

Therefore, first of all, you need to check whether the fabric chosen for sewing can be formed using WTO (wet heat treatment).

If the selected fabric does not lend itself to the formation of the WTO, then the collar should be designed on the drawing of the back and front with an expanded neck. The excess width of the neck, formed as a result of construction, is taken into the darts along the neck.

Construction of a one-piece stand-up collar on an extended neck

Temporarily transfer the chest tuck of the shelf to the waist line, the shoulder tuck of the back to the armhole.

For a small one-piece rack, expand the neck of the shelf and back along the shoulder line by 1.5 cm and deepen the neck of the back along the midline by 1 cm, the neck of the shelf - by 1.5 cm. Draw a new neck line. On the back, the neck line is drawn at right angles to the center line of the back.

Drawing of a shelf pattern with a one-piece stand

Draw an auxiliary line through the extreme points of the new neck of the shelf.

From the top of the new neck of the shelf, draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary line and set aside the height of the rack on it, for example 2.5 cm (point C in Fig. 2a).

Draw a line of the upper cut of the stand-up collar in accordance with the model, connecting point C with the bead line. At point C, a right angle should be formed. The transition from the side cut of the collar to the shoulder cut of the shelf should be drawn with a smooth line (Fig. 2b).

Backrest pattern drawing with one-piece stand

Draw an auxiliary line through the extreme points of the new back neck.

From the top of the new neck of the back, draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary line and set aside a height of 2.5 cm on it (point C1 in Fig. 3).

Extend the middle line of the back up and set aside the height of the rack along it 2.5 cm + 0.5 cm = 3.0 cm (point C2 in Fig. 3).

Draw a line of the upper cut of the stand-up collar in accordance with the model, connecting point C1 with point C2. A right angle should be formed at point C2. Draw a smooth line from the side cut of the collar to the shoulder cut of the back.

Find the middle of the upper cut of the back collar, draw a cut line to the end of the tuck on the bulge of the shoulder blades, cut the pattern along this line (Fig. 3b).

Close the tuck in the armhole, the tuck will open to the middle of the back collar (Fig. 3c).

After transferring the tuck to the line of the upper cut of the collar on the back, add 0.5 cm to each side of the tuck, this will further lengthen the line of the upper cut of the collar on the back (Fig. 3c). Shorten the tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades to 9-10 cm from the line of the neck of the back.

The result should be a pattern, as in Figure 3d.

Is it possible to do without a tuck? It is possible without a tuck, but then the collar will lag behind the back of the neck more strongly. If this option suits you, please do it without a tuck. But keep in mind, if the figure has a stoop or fat deposits in the region of the 7th cervical vertebra, then the lag of the collar from the neck can be very significant.

In this article, I showed you how to build a one-piece stand-up collar for a jacket, blouse or dress with a front closure. But most often such a collar is used in boleros, which not only do not have fasteners, but do not even have a smell.

For such a bolero, you just need to draw the line of the upper cut of the collar and the line of the side on the shelf in a different way, something like in the figure below.

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Collar patterns can vary endlessly, but their basics are always the same. When building all types of collars, the rule applies: first the neck, then the collar.

For most stand-up collars, the width and depth of the new neckline is important, not its shape. However, if a stand-up collar is built on the shelf and back of a model with a large neckline, then the shape of the new neckline is transferred to the line of the lower cut of the stand. The shape of the stand-up collar is determined by the length of the line of the upper cut of the collar. The smaller the length of the line of the upper cut of the stand-up collar, the tighter it fits to the neck.

This article shows one-piece racks, racks in products with lapels of various shapes, as well as cut-off racks built on a shelf and back with large necklines.

The basis for the construction of collars is the drawing of the base of the jacket of a semi-adjacent silhouette, the front and back are shown to the waist, since only the construction of the collar is considered.

Rack, one-piece with shelf and back

There are two types of one-piece racks. In the first case, the collar is built in one piece with a front and back; when connecting the shoulder sections, the side sections of the collar are connected, which are a continuation of the shoulder sections of the front and back.

In the second case, the collar is built in one piece only with a shelf, and on the back it is sewn into the neck.

Connect the sides of the chest tuck and temporarily transfer its solution to the waist.

Increase the neck of the shelf and back by the amount determined by the model. For a small one-piece rack, it is necessary to expand the neck of the shelf and back by 1.5 cm along the shoulder and deepen the neck in the middle of the back by 1 cm, in the middle of the shelf by 1.5 cm.

Draw a new neck. On the back, the neck is drawn at a right angle to the middle of the back. Draw auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the new neck of the shelf and back.

From the tops of the new neck of the shelf and back, draw perpendiculars to the auxiliary lines, along which to set aside the height of the rack - 2.5 cm. Extend the middle line of the back up and set aside the height of the rack along it - 3 cm.

Parallel to the middle of the shelf, draw a line on the edge of the board. Mark the location of the loops / buttons.

Draw the top cut of the stand-up collar in accordance with the drawing. This line is needed to transfer the tuck solution to the bulge of the shoulder blades to the upper cut of the collar and to lengthen the upper cut of the collar on the back.

On the shelf, lengthening the upper cut of the collar for this model is not required, because. narrow collar.

Details of the cut of the stand, one-piece cut with a shelf and a back

After transferring the tuck to the upper cut of the collar on the back, add 0.5 cm to each side of the tuck, this will further lengthen the upper cut of the collar on the back.

High stand, one-piece with shelf and back

A one-piece rack can have a greater height than in the previous model, provided that the line of its upper cut is long enough. To do this, part of the solution of the chest tuck on the shelf is transferred to the upper cut of the collar. As shown in the previous example, the bulge of the shoulder blades also translates to the top cut of the collar to lengthen the top cut of the collar on the back.

Cut the shelf from the neck to the point of the center of the chest. Connect the sides of the chest tuck, transfer 1 cm of the solution of the chest tuck to the neck to increase it, temporarily transfer the rest of the solution to the waist.

For a high one-piece collar, expand the neckline of the front and back by 2 cm along the shoulder and deepen it by 1 cm along the centerline of the back. Draw a new neckline, on the back at right angles to the centerline.

Draw auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the new neck of the shelf and back.

From the tops of the new neckline on the shelf and back, draw perpendiculars to the auxiliary lines, along which set aside the height of the stand-up collar - 6 cm. Extend the middle line of the back up and set aside the height of the collar along it - 6.5 cm.

Draw the top section of the stand-up collar in accordance with the drawing.

From the point in the middle of the section of the upper cut of the collar on the back, draw a cut line to the end of the tuck on the bulge of the shoulder blades.

High stand cut details

Cut the back along the cut line to transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades. Transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades to the upper cut of the rack.

Copy the inside of the collar and the collar from the drawing. Check the length of the top cut of the collar. Correct the cuts at the mates and indicate the direction of the warp thread.

Figured rack, one-piece cut with a shelf and back

This model with a curly one-piece stand looks especially impressive. Thanks to such original details, the product acquires fashionable ease.

Cut the shelf from the neck to the point of the center of the chest. Connect the sides of the chest tuck; Transfer 0.7 cm of the chest tuck solution to the neck to increase it, temporarily transfer the rest of the solution to the waist.

For this one-piece collar, expand the neck of the front and back by 2 cm along the shoulder; deepen the neck in the middle of the shelf by 1.5 cm and in the middle of the back by 1 cm. Draw a new neck line, on the back - at a right angle to the center line. Draw auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the new neck of the shelf and back.

From the top of the new neck of the shelf and back, draw perpendiculars to the auxiliary lines, along which set aside the height of the rack - 4 cm. Extend the middle line of the back up and set aside the height of the rack along it - 4.5 cm.

Draw the top section of the rack. Draw a collar on the shelf in accordance with the model (see drawing).

From the point in the middle of the section of the upper cut of the collar on the back, draw a cut line to the end of the tuck on the bulge of the shoulder blades.

Details of the curly stand cut

Cut the back along the cut line to transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades. Transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades to the upper cut of the rack.

After transferring the tuck to the upper cut of the collar on the back, add 0.7 cm to each side of the tuck, this will further expand the collar at the back. Shorten the tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades to 9-10 cm from the neck of the back.

Copy the inside of the collar and the collar from the drawing. Check the length of the line of the upper cut of the collar. Adjust the cut lines at the fillets and indicate the direction of the warp thread

Rack, one-piece cut with a shelf

This model shows the construction of a rack, one-piece with only a shelf. The advantage of this type of collar is that you can change the length of the line of the upper cut of the collar by changing the angle of the back of the collar.

Connect the sides of the chest tuck and temporarily transfer the solution to the side line.

Expand the neck on the shoulder of the shelf and back by 1.5 cm; in the middle of the back, deepen the neckline by 1 cm. Draw a new neckline on the back at a right angle to the midline.

Draw an auxiliary line through the extreme points of the extended neck only on the shelf. Extend this auxiliary line by an amount equal to the value of the length of the new back neck.

From the last point obtained, draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary line 1 cm long (for this model). The larger this value, the greater the angle of inclination of the back of the collar, the greater the length of the line of its upper cut and, accordingly, the less the collar is adjacent to the neck from behind.

Draw a line for the lower cut of the stand-up collar on its back. At right angles to the resulting line, draw the center line of the rack.

From the top of the extended neck of the shelf, draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary line, along which set aside the height of the stand - 4 cm. Set aside 4.5 cm along the middle line of the collar. Draw a line for the upper cut of the collar.

Details of the cut of the rack, one-piece cut with a shelf

Draw auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the neck of the shelf and back.

From the tops of the new neck of the shelf and back, draw perpendiculars to the auxiliary lines, along which set aside the height of the rack - 4 cm. Extend the middle line of the back up and set aside the height of the rack along it - 4.5 cm.

In parallel to the middle of the shelf, draw a line for the edge of the side and the inflection of the lapel, mark the location of the buttons. Finish off the lapel and collar.

From the point in the middle of the section of the upper cut of the collar on the back, draw a cut line to the end of the tuck on the bulge of the shoulder blades. This line is needed to transfer the tuck solution to the upper cut of the collar on the back and to lengthen the top cut.

Shawl Lapel Collar Details

Cut the back along the cut line to transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades. Transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades to the upper cut of the rack.

After transferring the tuck to the upper cut of the collar on the back, add 0.7 cm to each side of the tuck, this will further expand the collar at the back.

Shorten the tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades to 9-10 cm from the neck of the back.

Copy the inside of the collar and the collar from the drawing. Check the length of the top cut of the collar.

Correct the cuts at the mates and indicate the direction of the warp thread.

Cutting stand in a product with lapels

Stand-up collars in products with different lapel options always look unique. If the expansion of the neckline on the front and back along the shoulder line is significant or the size of the collar on the front is very different from the size of the collar on the back, then you should copy the front part of the collar and use it when building a detachable stand.

Connect the sides of the chest tuck, temporarily transfer the solution to the waist.

Expand the neckline along the shoulder of the shelf and backrest by 2.5 cm, deepen the neckline in the middle of the shelf by 4.5 cm and in the middle of the backrest by 1 cm. Draw a new line for the neckline of the shelf and backrest.

Parallel to the middle of the shelf, draw a line on the edge of the board. Draw the fold line of the lapel and mark the location of the buttons/loops. Draw the contours of the lapel and collar on the shelf.

Build a detachable stand-up collar based on a right angle. To do this, measure the length of the new neck of the shelf and back and set aside the resulting value along a horizontal line from the starting point. From the point obtained, set aside 3 cm vertically to determine the amount of rise in the front of the collar and draw the lower section of the stand.

The height of the collar along the midline is 4 cm. Copy the front part of the collar from the drawing of the shelf and combine it with the drawing of the collar (shaded area on the drawing of the collar). Finish the collar cuts.

Details of the cut-off stand in a product with lapels

The length of the shoulder of the shelf and back in this model is 2 cm. Draw a line of the model neck in accordance with the drawing. This line is also the bottom cut of the collar.

At a right angle to the lower cut of the collar upwards, draw a line corresponding to the line of the middle of the shelf on the collar 7 cm long. Draw the contours of the collar fastener parallel to this line.

At a right angle to the lower cut of the collar from the shoulder of the front and back, draw the sides of the collar parts 7 cm long.

Extend up the middle line of the back and set aside the height of the stand - 7 cm along it from the model neck. Draw sections of the stand-up collar through the obtained points.

Details of the cut-off stand

The length of the shoulder of the shelf and back for this model is 2 cm. Draw a line of the edge of the side at a distance of 8 cm from the middle of the shelf. Draw a model neck in accordance with the drawing.

Draw on the shelf the contours of the collar and the curly insert of the shelf, one-piece with a lapel and a selection. Draw the back of the collar on the back according to the drawing. Stand-up collar height - 7 cm.

Measure the length of the upper sections of the collar parts on the front and back.

Details of the cut-off stand of a soft shape

This stand-up collar is cut out in the oblique direction of the warp thread, one-piece along the fly away, in the form of a rectangle. The length of the lower cut of the collar is equal to the length of the upper cut of the parts of the collar on the front and back, which is measured in the drawing.

The curly insert of the shelf, one-piece with a lapel and a selection, is copied from the drawing and mirrored with respect to the fold line. Connect the sides of the chest tuck.

Correct the cuts at the mates and indicate the direction of the warp thread.

Collar - an element of the product, characterized by the "flexibility" of the form. There are a huge number of its modifications, so for each type of face, physique and other individual characteristics, you can choose the ideal option. Most collars have a similar design - this is a visible part and a stand hidden from the eyes, separated from each other by an inflection. The details have a key difference - the way they connect to the bodice.

The element can be detachable (it is sewn along the cut line) or one-piece. In the second case, it is usually cut out in one piece with the front and back. This is how you can model:

• classic one-piece stand-up collars - with a hidden part height from 3.5-4.5 to 7-8 cm;
• standing-turn-down models with racks 2.5-3.5 cm;
• semi-erect and flat-lying varieties - with a height of up to 2 cm and 5 mm, respectively.

At the racks, the width of the flying part can vary (up to 25 cm), deaf or open fasteners. They fit snugly to the neck or frame it effectively, leaving a short distance. The choice of the final form depends only on the wishes of the future owner of the item. The racks that are cut out along with the product have features - they must be taken into account when sewing clothes.

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Features of one-piece racks

A one-piece collar is convenient to build on widened necks. This is due to the peculiarities of the style - it is most often used for outerwear, jackets, dresses and tops made of dense fabric, which is organically combined with a strict style. To make the part look beautiful, the product is processed with a wet-heat method using an iron. Fabrics that are used for uprights rarely stretch and their WTO on a narrow neckline can be problematic.

Most often, when building such collars, craftsmen start from the basic drawings of jackets, jackets and coats. The degree of expansion of the neck depends on the style of the product and the personal preferences of the owner. The value can vary from one to 5 centimeters and even more. There is a general "constructive" principle: with an increase in the height of the rack, the expansion along the neck should also grow. When creating a pattern, it is imperative to take into account the presence or absence of a middle seam on the back of the product. The sequence of modeling in the two cases is different.

If there is no seam connection, you need to build the part vertically, focusing on the middle line along the back. The upper section of the collar is slightly shifted, and the connection of the stand with the shoulder is carried out smoothly. In most cases, the excess width is removed in tucks. Their end should be located at a distance from the edge of the rack (at least half a centimeter), and the length depends on the height of the collar.

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Construction of a basic drawing of a one-piece rack

The pattern of the classic variety of such a collar is built according to the standard scheme. The work begins with drawing a right angle - the vertex is in the upper left corner, the rays are directed to the right side and down.

First draw up the stitching line:

1. a horizontal line is laid from the starting vertex according to the measure of the half-girth in the neck (with an increase of half a centimeter);
2. from the end of the segment to the right, an allowance is made for a half-skid (its edge rises by 3-5 mm);
3. from the original vertex lay 2-4 centimeters along the midline, marking the end with a dot;
4. the obtained marks are connected by an auxiliary line - it must be divided into three, indicating the division points;
5. from the first division point, a perpendicular straight line is drawn upward and half a centimeter is measured;
6. smoothly connect the auxiliary intermediate marks of the curve.

The construction of the rack begins from the auxiliary points along the vertical, and its protrusions are drawn smoothly, in the form of rounded curves. Next, a take-off cut is constructed with a deposit along the midline up to 9-10 cm (along the width of the part on the reverse side). From the end of this segment to the right, a horizontal is laid off after crossing with a vertical, extended by 1-4 centimeters. Then you need to display the length of the angle and smoothly connect the marks.

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Building Adjacent Racks

Depending on the degree of fit of the one-piece rack, it is built differently on the drawing. If the collar should tightly cover the neck, you first need to model the back. Circle the main pattern and find the location of the highest and lowest points. Continue the line in the center of the back up to the height of the rack, and mark the end of the segment.

Working process

1. From the highest point of the sprout, lay vertically the height of the stand along the shoulder (the value along the midline minus 1 centimeter).
2. From the end of the segment horizontally to the left and vertically, build up lines 1 cm long and smoothly connect the ends, continuing the curve to the cut on the shoulder.
3. Outline the drawing of the front (shoulder tuck should be moved to the side cut) and mark the highest and lowest points along the neckline.
4. From the highest mark, build a cut line along the shoulder to the right side and from its end bring up a segment at half the height along the rack (the angle must be right).
5. From the end built above the segment, draw a smooth curve to the highest point on the neck.

The height of the rack in the center of the front part is adjusted according to the parameter in the shoulder section - they must be equal (although you can determine the value from the model). It is permissible to bring the upper cut of the part to the depth of the cutout or draw it along the edge of the side, if a fastener is provided along the front. When building, be sure to set control marks - at the highest points on the sprout and neck.

stylefashion.com.ua

Collar design

One-piece rack can be designed "at a distance" from the neck. The modeling technique is similar to tight-fitting varieties: first, they build the back, tracing the main details on a paper sheet, and then expand the sprout by 1-3 centimeters.

Working process

1. Continue up the midline to the height of the rack.
2. From the point at the end of the expansion of the sprout, vertically set aside the height of the stand at the shoulder (the corresponding parameter is in the center minus 1 centimeter).
3. Connect the ends of the two lines drawn above by smoothly drawing a concave curve.
4. Make a side cut along the control point along the bottom of the sprout.
5. Make a tuck - the new line of the sprout is divided in two, on one half an element is made with a solution of 1 centimeter and a length along the height of the rack.

The construction of the front also starts from the main pattern. It is circled, in the resulting drawing, the highest and lowest points along the cutout are marked. If the product should have a fastener, in the middle you need to make an allowance of up to 3 cm for a half-skid.

1. from the end of the expansion, a vertical is drawn - the height along the rack from the seam in the shoulder;
2. from the point at the end of the segment, a horizontal line of about 2 centimeters is drawn to the right;
3. from the extended segment for half-skid up, measure the height along the rack with a centimeter increase;
4. from the obtained point to the right, a horizontal line of 2 centimeters is drawn.

The resulting auxiliary points are smoothly connected by concave curves - these are cuts from above and from the side. When making tucks, ⅓ of the length of the new neck is taken as the height, and 1-1.5 centimeters are left for the solution.

club.season.ru

Designing products with a seam in the center of the back

Many fashionable one-piece oversized coats have a seam in the middle of the back. To design a collar for such a product, you need to expand the neck to the desired volume and, accordingly, increase the height of the collar. Details of clothing are copied separately, and an element is modeled on them, starting from the back. An extension is made on it (about 2-2.5 cm) - the value is set aside along the cut on the shoulder and marked with a dot. From it, a line is drawn along the neck again (it will be needed to decorate the tucks).

Working process

1. Postpone the height of the stand and lower it along the shoulder cut (the height is reduced by 5-10 mm).
2. Make a bevel of about 5-20 mm and draw a new middle axis for the rack.
3. Make a bevel along the shoulder line, equal to or less than in the center.
4. Draw the upper cut of the element - straight or smoothly, according to the model.
5. Draw a smooth curve along the line of the shoulder.
6. Build a tuck to fit along the neck on the back: a solution of 7-10 mm (evenly distributed on both sides), length - two heights along the rack.

The next stage is modeling the part on the shelf.

1. If the product must have fasteners and buttons, you will need an allowance in the center of the front (depart from the middle 3-4 cm).
2. The edge along the board is drawn for the entire length of the shelf. It is necessary to expand the cutout by 2-2.5 cm, mark its end with a dot.
3. From this point, set aside the height of the element minus 5 mm (the cut along the shoulder is lowered similarly to the back).
4. Smoothly shape the line of the shoulder in the form of a curve.
5. Draw a bevel along the front line in the form of a straight line, and the upper cut in the form of a smooth curve.
6. Remove the extra width into the tuck, the location of which is selected according to the style and figure (it is usually placed perpendicular to the neck) - a solution of 1-1.5 centimeters, length along the rack.

liveinternet.ru

To find where the central axis of the tuck is located, you need to measure its length and set aside ⅓ of the value from the midline of the shelf. The solution is distributed along the cutout, and the top is finished without bringing half a centimeter to the top cut on the rack. In a similar way, collars can be modeled on other bulky products - jackets, jackets.

Collars of this type do not have a turn-down part and differ from each other mainly in the height of the stand and the design of its ends (Fig. 1a, b, c). There are stitched (cut-off) and one-piece stand-up collars, that is, we cut out as one piece with the main details of the product.
Stitched stand-up collar
The process of making a stitched stand-up collar, as well as a stand-up collar, consists of two main operations: the preparation of the collar itself and its connection with the neck of the product. Like all the collars discussed above, the stitched stand-up collar is also made double. In this case, the upper collar and collar here can be cut out in two separate parts or together, in the form of a single transverse strip that does not have a seam along the upper fold. The ends of the stitched stand-up collar can be decorated end to end, go one after the other or end with a bow tie.
All of the above design features of the stitched racks determine the differences in the methods of their processing, mainly related to
Collar blank
Option 1. When a snug fit of the collar to the neck is not required, it is made in the form of a straight strip, cut out so that its short side coincides with the direction of the warp threads of the fabric (see race 1, c).
The cut strip of fabric is folded along the length with the front side inward, as shown in Fig. 1a, the transverse sections are leveled, swept and stitched with a seam 0.75 cm wide. To form transitional edges, the seam stocks are ironed on the upper collar (Fig. 1,b). Then the collar is turned right side out and the transition edges and the top fold are finally ironed.
To give greater rigidity and long-term preservation of shape, the stand-up collar is sometimes made with a gasket.
Option 2. When the stitched stand-up collar should fit snugly around the neck e, it is recommended to make it undercut, i.e., consisting of two parts with a seam along the upper edge (see 1, b).
The preparation of a collar, consisting of two parts, is made in the same way as a stand-up collar (see Fig. 2, p. 1)
Option Z. A stand-up collar that turns into a tie (see Fig. 1, a), are performed more often on products that have a blind fastener to the top. The ends of such a collar are lengthened and, if desired, can be tied with a tie or bow.
Stand-up collar that turns into a tie cut out in the form of a straight strip of fabric, the long side of which is located at an angle of 90 or 45 ° to the direction of the warp threads. The width of the strip is taken equal to twice the height of the rack plus a processing allowance (2x0.75 = 1.5 cm). Its length should be equal to the length of the neck with an increase in the tie and its processing (allowances at the ends of 0.75 cm).
It must be borne in mind that the collar of the type in question is sewn into the neck not to the very middle of the front, but not reaching it by 1.5-2 cm on each side, which ensures the accommodation of a tie or bow knot. Therefore, before proceeding with the preparation of the collar, it is required to outline the ends of the seam, sewing it into the neck, both on the collar itself and on the product.
On fig. 3, a control notch, which determines the end of the sewing-in seam, is made on the neck of the shelf at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the line of the middle of the front. To determine the places of the corresponding notches on the collar, the length of the neck section is measured on the product from the middle of the back to the control notch (in Fig. 3 this section is shown by a thickened line), the same amount is measured on the collar in both directions from its middle along the stitching line.
'After completing the indicated marking, the collar is bent in half along the length, the cut edges are equalized and then the ends of the tie are swept and grinded with a seam 0.75 cm wide. at right angles to the cut edge, as shown in Fig. 4a. Stocks of seams in the corners formed by machine lines are notched, not bringing the cuts 0.1 cm to the line. Since in the finished collar, the seams at the ends of the tie should be located on

fold, forming a transitional edging, the allowances are ironed onto the collar exactly along the machine line (Fig. 4, b).
The prepared collar is turned right side out and, having straightened the corners, ironed from the side of the collar
Collar to neck connection

For all considered stand-up collar options the ways of stitching it into the neck are the same. Some differences are due only to the characteristics of the fabrics from which the product is made.
before sewing into the neck of the stand-up collar in the product, as usual, the shoulder seams and fasteners must be processed. The prepared collar with the inner side (i.e., collar) is applied to the wrong side of the product (Fig. 5), the ends of the collar are aligned with the edges of the fastener or control notches that determine the place where the stitching begins, and the cuts of the collar and neckline are equalized. The collar is swept from the side of the product, and the machine stitch is led along the collar, leaving a margin of 0.75 cm, which is then ironed onto the collar, as shown in Fig. 6. The trimmed edge of the upper collar is folded inside out by 0.75 cm, basted along the neck so that it covered the stitching line by 0.1 cm, after which it is adjusted at the very fold along the entire length of the collar (Fig. 7).
The advantage of the considered method of stitching the collar is its comparative simplicity, however, the stitching seam will be visible from the front side, which is not always desirable. For products made from more expensive, woolen or silk, fabrics, a different method of connecting the collar with the neck is used, in which the stitching seam is not visible from the front side of the product.
In this case, the prepared collar, in contrast to the previous ones, is applied with the outer side (i.e., the upper collar) on the front side of the product (Fig. 8), its ends are aligned with the edges of the fastener or control marks, the cuts of the collar and neckline are equalized, stitched in and then sewn in , as indicated above, and the seam is ironed onto the upper collar. The cut (lower) edge of the collar is folded inside out by 0.75 cm, basted and hemmed with manual blind stitches (Fig. 9). For greater strength of the connection, hand stitches of the collar hemming are sometimes replaced with machine stitching. In this case, the cut edge of the collar is also folded inside out, but it is basted with a transition beyond the stitching line of the upper collar by 0.1-0.2 cm (Fig. 10). Stitch the collar from the front side of the product into the groove of the seam.
Features of stitching a stand-up collar, turning into a tie, into a deep neck
Stand-up collar that turns into a tie, on a product with a deep neck (see Fig. 1, a), as in the previous case, it is a straight strip of fabric cut at an angle of 90 or 45 ° to the direction of the warp threads. Moreover, its length is the sum of the size of the neck itself and the length of both knotted ends.

Collar blank and the processing of the ends of the tie is carried out in the same way as for the previously considered collars of this type. As for the stitching operation, its feature here is the processing of the corner of the neck by turning. The prepared facing is applied with the front side on the front side of the front of the product, the cut edges are combined at the heads of the neck and the facing and basted (Fig. 11).
The corner of the neck is turned from the side of the main part with a seam 0.75 cm wide. In this case, the machine line starts from the cut at the left control mark, which determines the beginning of the collar stitching (The control marks that determine the beginning and end of the collar sewing line are marked on the neck, usually at a distance of 4 cm from its corner) then, as shown in fig. 11, lead parallel to the cuts of the neck and at the second control mark again turn perpendicular to the cut. Allowances for the seams of the neck and turning in the corners are notched, not bringing the cuts by 0.1 cm to the line (Fig. 12) and, to form a transitional edging, are ironed onto the main part (Fig. 13). 13 shows how the neck corner should look after turning it.

The techniques and sequence of stitching a collar into a deep neck are no different from those given above. They are shown: for products made of cotton fabrics in fig. 14 and 15, and from woolen and silk - in fig. 16, a and b.

STAND COLLAR(Fig. 17)

The process of making a dress stand-up collar blouses, cut as one piece with the back and shelves, is relatively complex and requires certain skills in tailoring. In addition, the range of fabrics from which a product of such a cut can be made is very limited.
The fact is that the creation of a good shape of a one-piece rack is not achieved by constructive means and requires additional wet-heat treatment (sutyuki, braces). Therefore, before choosing one or another dress model with one piece stand, it is necessary to check whether the fabric intended for sewing can withstand heat treatment. Not all fabrics with an admixture of various synthetic fibers, which are widespread at the present time, can be used for sewing products with one-piece stand-up collar.
Processing sequence
Processing of the shoulder seams of the product. Before connecting the shoulder sections, the darts along the shoulder seams of the back must be stitched. To connect the front to the back, they are folded with their front sides inward, the control notches are combined, the shoulder sections are equalized and swept along the back, and then they are grinded from the side of the shelf (Fig. 18, a).
The allowances of the shoulder seams reduced in width at the level of the neck and shoot lines (the base of the stand) and above are notched in two or three places to a depth of 0.3-0.5 cm and ironed. Sections of the wide part of the allowances of the shoulder seam are overcast with a zigzag stitch and also ironed (Fig. 18, b) or ironed towards the back (Fig. 18, c).
After grinding and final processing of the shoulder seams to give the stand-up collar a shape corresponding to the configuration of the neck, it is subjected to wet-heat treatment, i.e., sutyuzhka (seal) along the base and, if necessary, bracing along the upper edge. To assemble the excess fabric to be sutured, a machine or hand stitch is laid along the neck line with large stitches, on which the fabric is somewhat pulled together. After stitching, the threads of the stitch are removed, and the traces of it are removed again with the help of a wet iron and iron.
If necessary, the upper cut edges of the stand and facing are somewhat pulled back, making sure that the amount of the pull is the same on both halves of the collar. For this purpose, the product and the facing attached to it in several places are folded in half with the front side inward so that the shoulder seams are aligned, and all four sections are pulled at the same time.

This type of collar is more often used in outerwear. Therefore, a one-piece rack is built on the base drawings of a coat, jacket or jacket.

A stand-up collar drawing is built on an expanded neck. How much to expand the neck is up to you, in accordance with the style that you have chosen for sewing. This value fluctuates within a fairly significant range of 0-5 cm or more. The higher the rack, the wider the neck should be. The height of the stand can also be different. If we talk about average values, then this is 4-8 cm.

Note. The presence or absence of a seam in the middle of the back matters! The construction in these two versions will not be significant, but differ. Today we are building a one-piece coat rack pattern. with a seam down the middle of the back.

And so, suppose we need to build a one-piece stand-up collar for a fashionable O-shaped coat with a seam in the middle of the back. For this task, we need to determine the height of the rack and, accordingly, the width of the neck. Let's expand the neckline by 2.5 cm and take the height of the stand to be 8 cm, since the coat is quite voluminous, then we will make the stand accordingly.

Copy on separate sheets of paper details coat basics: backs and shelves. If you take ready-made patterns of a particular coat model, then keep in mind that the neck has already undergone design changes in accordance with the style. How to proceed in this case, I will tell later.

And now we are focusing our attention on the drawing of the back and proceed to the design of the rack.

We expand the neck of the back by 2.5 cm. To do this, from the top of the neck, set aside the required value along the shoulder cut of the back and set point O. Let's draw a new neckline by connecting points A and O - we will need this line later to build a tuck.

Draw vertical lines from points A and O upwards.

From point A upwards, set aside the height of the rack and set point O1. In our example, the height of the rack will be 8 cm, and you set aside your value. Remember, the height of the rack can be different.

From the point O upwards, we set aside the height of the rack minus 0.5-1 cm and set the point O2 (8-0.5 \u003d 7.5 cm). Those. slightly lower the height of the rack at the level of the shoulder cut. This value is not constant, its average values ​​are in the range of 0.5-1 cm.

Now we need to do bevel on the center line of the rackAO1. To do this, to the left of the point O1, set aside the value of the bevel. The value of the bevel can also be different, within 0.5-2 cm. We will stop at the average values, for example, take 1 cm and set it aside from point O1 to the left and set point O3. We draw the middle line of the rack, connecting points A and O3.

Doing bevel along the shoulder line OO2. As a rule, the value of this bevel can be equal to or less than the value of the bevel along the center line. The amount of bevel depends on the style of the product, on the degree of fit of the stand to the neck, etc. We take the value of 0.7 cm and set aside it from the point O2 to the left, put the point O4.

We make out the line of the upper cut of the rack. The configuration of the upper line of the rack, depending on the specified parameters, can be designed as a straight line or a smooth line. It is important that the upper contour fits at a right angle to the center line of the stand - this is the general rule for constructing patterns for all collars.

We make out shoulder line smooth curve as shown in figure 4.

To ensure product fit along the neckline of the back let's build a tuck.
The tuck is located in the middle of the AO section.

Dart solution on the back is usually in the range of 0.7-1 cm. We take 1 cm.

Dart length equal to twice the height of the rack. In our case, this is 8x2 = 16 cm, while the top of the tuck should not reach the top cut of the rack by 0.5 cm.

Through the middle of the AO section, we draw a line parallel to the line of the shoulder section of the stand.
On the neck line, we distribute a solution of tuck 1 cm on both sides of the center line of the tuck - this is 0.5 cm each.

Down from the neck line of the joint stock company we set aside 8 cm.

We lower the top of the tuck by 0.5 cm from the top line of the rack. And we draw a tuck, as shown in Figure 5.

One-piece rack on the back is built.

Now let's start building the rack on the shelf.

In our example, the coat has a fastener with loops and buttons, so in the middle of the front we give an allowance, stepping back from the middle line of the front 3-4 cm, we draw a line of the edge of the side along the entire length of the shelf pattern.

The width of the side for a coat can be different, it depends on several factors and is determined in accordance with the style. In our example, the width of the board is 3 cm.

Now let's build the rack.

Just as on the back, expand the neckline by 2.5 cm, denote the expansion point with the letter C.

From point C upwards, we set aside the height of the rack minus 0.5 cm - just like on the back, we lower the shoulder section of the rack by 0.5 cm (8-0.5 \u003d 7.5 cm) and set point C1.

Doing bevel along the shoulder line CC1. To do this, set aside 2 cm to the right of point C1 and set point C2.

We make out shoulder line smooth curve as shown in the figure.

From point B upwards, set aside the height of the rack 8 cm and set point B1. By the way, the height of the front rack may be different and may not depend on the height of the rack on the back. In our example, it could well be 9-10 cm, or, conversely, be much less important if the style of the product suggested this.

Bevel on the front line the rack can be 2-4 cm. Set aside the bevel value to the right of point B1 and set point B2.

We draw the line of the upper cut of the rack with a smooth line, as shown in the figure. We make out the front cut of the rack with a straight line.

Construction of a tuck on a shelf.

To ensure a good fit of the product on the figure, it is necessary to remove the resulting excess neck width into the tuck.

The location of the tuck on the shelf depends on the style, on the features of the figure, etc. We will build a standard version. The direction of the tuck is perpendicular to the neck line.

Dart solution on the shelf is usually in the range of 1-1.5 cm. We take 1.5 cm.

Dart length on the shelf, as well as on the back, is taken depending on the height of the rack. In our case, this is 16 cm (double the height of the rack).

The center of the tuck is located on the neck line, at a distance of 1/3 of its length from the center line of the shelf. Simply put, we measure the length of the neckline from the midline of the shelf to the shoulder and divide by three. We postpone the result obtained from the middle line of the shelf and build a tuck. We distribute the solution of the tuck along the neck line 1.5 cm: 2 = 0.75 cm. Down from the neck line, set aside 8 cm, and the top of the tuck should not reach the top cut of the rack by 0.5 cm.

That's all! Work for 20 minutes.

And remember, there are no hard and fast rules! Only those who go beyond the standards can receive an unusual, i.e. extraordinary, exceptional, special, unique result.

Experiment! Good luck!