Hello. I will build a pattern of a women's shirt based on a dress.

The shirt has a number of characteristic features: a free armhole, a wide sleeve, coquettes, a stand-up collar, cuffs. For me personally, a 100% wide shirt with a lowered sleeve. Recently, these are quite rare and they give out blouses with planted sleeves, stylized as a shirt, for shirts. This is exactly the option I will do.

The shirt will be free cut, without waist darts.

My foundation

I changed the color of the lines and moved the halves apart.

• I transfer half of the raster of the shoulder tuck on the back to the armhole.

I have a tuck on the back 2 cm. I put a perpendicular (approximately) on the armhole from the base of the tuck. An incision is made and the armhole is expanded by 1 cm.

• Opened on the back - it is necessary to open on the shelf. Without hesitation, I open the armhole on the shelf also by 1 cm.

If the volume of the chest is large, you can open twice as much as on the back.

• I lengthen the shoulder line by 1 - 2 cm.
• The side seam is offset by 2 cm.
• I lower the bottom of the armhole by 2 cm.

Values ​​can, of course, vary.

• I'm drawing a new armhole.

I clean the drawing from unnecessary lines.

After modeling the armhole, I build the sleeve

You can unmodel the warp sleeve like this:

Yoke

• I close the rest of the shoulder tuck in a yoke.

I lengthen the tuck to the yoke line.

I close the drawer.

Transferring the chest tuck

I draw a new tuck line arbitrarily from the base of the tuck.

On the fabric, the tuck closes without reaching the very center of the chest, about 3 cm.

Offset shoulder line forward

The shirt is characterized by the transfer of the shoulder line forward to the shelf. I carry 2 cm.

Plank, bottom

From the middle of the shelf (in the figure below I made the middle line dotted) I set aside 1.5 cm to the fold and another 3.5 cm for the one-piece plank.

She lifted the bottom on the side to wear a shirt for release.

Finished pattern

Pattern with allowances.

According to this pattern, such a straight dress is sewn - a shirt. On a girl, it looks very free, this is because the dress is on me, and I took a picture of it on my niece. I'm a little bigger.

Good day, dear masters! Every day we feel the approach of summer, and with it: the beginning of the summer season, preparing for a vacation, sudden forays into nature and many other entertainments that are within easy reach, not available in winter.

It is perfect for all the cases listed above. loose fit shirt, which will be discussed in today's article. In fact, the shirt was sewn for a very interesting case related to going out into the countryside - a polygon role-playing game. Nevertheless, we are sure that this thing will come in handy more than once or twice in everyday life, because it is sewn from light, natural fabric and is ideal for a long stay under the sun's rays that are gaining strength. A protective cream is good, but it will not replace a long loose sleeve.

The shirt pattern is represented by a dedicated link:

If this pattern does not suit you in size, you can build a shirt pattern yourself, and also build a sleeve pattern yourself.

Sew a shirt with your own hands step by step

In total, we have six parts: two sleeves, front and back, as well as two neck parts - back curved and front Y-shaped. For everything about everything, we needed 1.5 m of shirting fabric and about three hours (if you are sewing this for the first time).

1. First of all, it is necessary to cut out a shelf, back, sleeves and neckline facings on the front and back shelves. Even if the fabric you choose does not have a distinct structure, try to lay out the details in one direction. This will give accuracy to all your products. And savings - it should be reasonable.
2. We sew the shoulder seams of the back and front and process them with an overlock. The shirt fabric is not capricious, therefore, you should try to make the overlock seam as close as possible to the seam connecting the parts.
   
3. We sew the facing - the front and back parts, we also overlock the joining seams, and we also process the resulting part in a circle.
4. Let's move on to the sleeves. Without fastening the thread at the beginning of the operation, we sew the sleeve around the wide line and leave a small length of the thread.
   
5. Pulling one end of the thread, we assemble the sleeve, evenly distributing the assembly along the rim. Do not pull if it does not stretch - there is a chance to break the thread and then you have to start all over again. I tighten the fabric first on one side to the center, then on the other, it's easier.
6. We sew the sleeve into the open armhole (the so-called "open method"), connecting the notches in the center.
7. We process the sleeve with an overlock.
8. We sew the side seams and go through them with an overlock, we try so that the seams of the sleeve come together. If the sleeves are sewn in a “closed way”, there is usually no problem with the seam getting into the seam. But such a maneuver is more difficult to do and does not make sense in this product. Therefore, we advise you to just carefully work on the notches.
   
9. We hem the bottom of the shirt and the edges of the sleeve - bending it twice.
   
10. Sew the trim to the neck of the shirt. In front, in the center, we go down, sew to the basting, make a couple of stitches to the side, for a better opportunity to turn it out and return to the neck.
11. Carefully cut our neckline and make notches in the corners
12. We sew on the inside by 0.1 mm. On the cut as far as we can
13. We smooth it down and we can make bartacks on the shoulders so that the facing does not turn out at every opportunity.
14. If desired, you can put blocks (an option is to sew loops along the entire depth of the cutout) to stretch the lacing or sew to the ends of the rope that will tie the edges of the neck

This is how easily and simply an indispensable summer thing appears in our wardrobe. Having trained on a simple model, you can move on to complicating its individual elements, getting at the end a decent outfit for everyday wear.

Shirt Decoration Ideas

I don't see this shirt as an end product, but as a blank canvas to express my creativity in any of the many ways we have available today.

For example, instead of a plain shirt fabric, you can choose linen or cotton, or delve into the choice of fabric with a print.

If you have chosen a solid solid fabric, such as linen in a rich cobalt color, you can play with the color scheme of individual details - such as facing.

If you like to draw, take fabric paints, create your own unique drawing using the “watercolor” technique or any other technique where there are no clear boundaries. On natural fabrics, special dyes hold and lay down a little differently than on smooth synthetics like diving or satin.

And of course, such a shirt just asks to be decorated with embroidery, whether it be beads, embroidery threads, cross stitch or even satin ribbons. On the neck, you can punch holes, put holitens and connect them together with a satin or leather cord.

You can also experiment with the length of the product. If you lengthen the back part and get a fashionable asymmetric shirt, and if you lengthen both parts (front and back) and even a tunic.

Article author: Nitashi Eraklier

Tailoring and photography: Workshop M.Y. code. Groups in

Electronic pattern of a cut-off dress "waterfall + warehouses"

Vera Olkhovskaya

Sizes: 42-52

File Format: PDF

Sewing difficulty level: medium

Sewing a dress of this style can be difficult for beginner tailors, both because of the asymmetrical cut of the skirt and because of the need to calculate the warehouse.

For tailoring, you can use only thin, lightweight fabric from a silk or stretch assortment.

The set of patterns includes: a bodice pattern with a “waterfall” neckline (“swing”) and patterns of PP and ZP skirts (Fig. 1).

The consumption of fabric for a dress, depending on the choice of layout, is approximately

Bodice length + skirt length + 20 (40) cm.

The pattern of the dress was made according to the numerous requests of the members of the group of Vera Olkhovskaya "Cut, sew and free patterns". The photo of the model is also provided by members of this group.

How to cut and sew a dress with a waterfall collar (swing) and folds

Particular attention should be paid to the choice of fabric for this dress: only thin, well-draped fabrics will do. Cutting for stretch and silk is different.

Let's start by cutting the stretch dress. For convenience and saving fabric, it should be done in two steps (Fig. 2).

Let's cut the skirt first. Since the PP skirt is asymmetrical, we cut it in a spread, the RFP is symmetrical and when cutting for it, the fabric folds in half.

After the skirt, we fold the fabric in half and cut out the bodice, applying the semi-skid of the shelf to the fold of the fabric.

Seam allowances depend on how the product is processed.

If you are going to sew your stretch dress with a knitted seam, then allowances are needed only along the bottom of the skirt for hem and along the bottom of the bodice to clarify the line connecting the bodice and skirt.

The sprout of the back should be processed with a piping, which is cut out according to the pattern or back detail (see the video tutorial on how to process the neck with a piping or).

The “waterfall” (“swing”) itself is processed with a seam with a rudder (rolled seam).

Warehouses are laid arbitrarily, but it should be borne in mind that the length of the shoulder section of the back should be equal to the length of the corresponding section of the shelf after the warehouses or warehouses are laid.

For a skirt, it is important that the lengths of the waist pieces of the PP on both sides of the half-skid are equal.

Cutting a dress made of silk fabric requires the presence of seam allowances. To the side, middle and shoulder add 1 - 1.5 cm, sprout, neckline, armholes and waist section of the skirt - cut out for the stroke line of the patterns. On the bottom of the skirt we add 1.5 - 2 cm, and on the bottom of the bodice - 3 cm to clarify the connection line of the bodice and skirt on the fitting.

A white shirt is refreshing and looks elegant. She never goes out of fashion. Along with the little black dress, the classic women's shirt has a cult status.

Ideally, it repeats a men's shirt and looks a little larger in size, which makes its owner fragile. A women's shirt is usually sewn without darts, but options are possible: it can be more tight-fitting, with darts or reliefs, made of cambric, good quality cotton or silk. If you sew a women's shirt with your own hands from checkered fabric, you get a cowboy shirt, from fabric with a large floral pattern - Hawaiian.

What are the main details of a shirt?

This is a turn-down collar on the stand, a placket, a lowered armhole, sewn seams, a double yoke and sleeves with cuffs and slits, as in a men's shirt. But in a women's shirt, the straps can be narrower or wider than standard ones (for a men's shirt it is 3 cm), collars and cuffs are not so rigid, buttons can already be with two holes (it is believed that in men's shirts buttons are used with only four holes for sewing) . Also, in women's shirts, instead of stitching, there can be ordinary seams processed with an overlock and without stitching.

Pattern:

Blouse-shirt. You will need: Blouse A. Cotton 1.80-1.80-1.85-1.85-2.10-2.10-2.10 m with a width ...

Pattern:

The crinkled batiste shirt goes well with the shorts. Size 34-42 You will need: Baptiste ...

Burda catalog autumn-winter/2015/2016

Pattern:

Fitted denim shirt in a classic style. You will need: Shirt A, B and C. Cotton rub…

: Master Class

In order not to repeat yourself and teach you something new, in the master class "How to sew a women's shirt" the processing of some knots has been changed.

For the basis on which we sew a women's shirt with our own hands, we take a pattern of model 120 from:

Pattern:

A loose shirt blouse with low armholes, as if borrowed from a men's wardrobe, pr…

With my size 38, I took the pattern for a size smaller - 36 size. The shirt model turned out to be quite voluminous, especially in the shoulder girdle. It doesn’t matter which pattern to take, all shirts are generally sewn the same way.

You will need:

Shirt fabric - 1.5 m with a width of 140 cm;
Interlining - 30 cm;
Buttons - 10 pcs.;
Tailor's scissors ();
Bias trim for finishing;
Threads and a needle for sewing;
Tailor's pins ();
calca();
Pencil or felt-tip pen for marking ();
Ruler ()

Step 1. Preparing a women's shirt pattern

I had to shorten the pattern in length.

Since the bottom of the shirt is curly, I laid a transverse fold on the pattern above the bottom line so as not to change it.

The sleeve is shortened in the middle of the sleeve, again in order not to change the bottom line with markings, because the bottom of the sleeve is designed for the length of the cuff.

Often a stitched bar is given in the magazine. When possible, I replace it with a one-piece, this greatly simplifies its processing.

To do this, the paper part of the plank must be glued to the part of the shelf and add one more of its width to get a double plank (a plank with two gates). The second turn of the bar replaces the adhesive pad, which, again, simplifies the work.

Step 2: Cut

We cut out the details of the shirt with the same allowances for all sections of 1.5 cm.

Important! Planks are cut out without allowances.

There are many small details in the shirt that strengthen the adhesive, so it is better to first mark the location of these details on the fabric (stands, collars and cuffs), then cut this piece of fabric and strengthen it with adhesive. And only then cut out all the small details from the glued fabric. So the work is accelerated, and the cut is more accurate.

In a women's shirt, you need to strengthen with thin glue all the paired parts of the stand, collar and cuffs, along with allowances.

Glue G785 is perfect for these purposes, as well as interlining H180 and their analogues. The duplicating material should be thin and plastic, unlike a man's shirt.
Then, on the glue mark all the allowances on small parts.

, read the site

Step 3. Processing the planks

Planks are processed first after cutting, even before the first fitting, because they do not affect the fit of the product.

To do this, you need to chop off or bend a paper plank on the pattern and with an iron, without chipping off the pattern, iron the bar twice on the wrong side of the shelf, first on one part, then turn the shelves over and iron the bar on the other part. Pin the planks onto the shelf.

Then stitch the strips on the shelf 1 mm from the fold (to the edge) and mark loops and buttons on them with an aquamarker. This is required for sampling. The loops go along the bar and in the middle of it.

Do not forget that on the patterns in the magazine, the marking of the loops is given for the smallest size! Keep this in mind when removing the pattern.

Step 4

Lay the pleat on the back and stitch it along the allowance. This will fix her. Baste the shirt for the first fitting. For her, it is enough to baste only one detail of the coquette. The second yoke is sewn on after trying on. Try on a shirt, fit it to your figure.

Step 5. Processing coquettes

In order to sew on the second yoke, you will have to dissolve the basting on the sides after trying on.

Lay the shirt face up on the table.

Roll up the back detail on the yoke with a tube.

Roll up the details of the shelves on the yoke.

Lay the second yoke face down on top and pin with the bottom yoke. The twisted details of the shelves and back remain inside, between the coquettes.

Stitch details of coquettes. Trim allowances to 5-7 mm.

Unscrew the yokes, pull the details of the shelves and back out through the neck.
Iron the seams of the coquette. Sew them from the front of the shirt, if necessary according to the model.

Step 6. Processing the collar

Collar details fold face to face, chop them off and stitch along the markings. Cut out allowances in the corners up to 1 mm from the stitching and trim to 5 mm.

Iron the collar allowances on the block.

Turn the collar inside out, iron without a transitional piping and topstitch along the edge.

On one part of the rack, cut the bottom allowance.

Trim the trimmed bottom edge. To do this, apply an oblique trim from a finishing fabric (I use tie silk) and stitch it on the lower cut of the stand 5-6 mm from the edge.

Wrap the cut of the rack with inlay and iron it.

Lay a line exactly in the stitching seam of the inlay (immediately under the oblique inlay), grabbing the second cut of the inlay from the inside.

Prick a stand without trim with the face on the lower collar. Combine the cuts, the middle, check the symmetry of the ends of the stand by folding the collar with the pinned stand in half.

From the side of the upper collar, put the edged stand face down.

Stitch the racks, grabbing the collar between them. Cut allowances in roundings to 1 mm, in other areas to 7 mm.

Unscrew the racks, iron without transitional edge.

Important! We iron either the collar or the stand separately so that the collar does not lose its shape.

On the top stand, draw a line for attaching the collar.

Step 7. Stitching the Collar

Mark the middle of the stand and the middle of the collar. Prick the collar into the neck from the front of the shirt, combining the middle, ends of the collar and placket, also marks along the shoulder seams. Sew the collar into the neck, laying the line exactly along the marked line.

Cut out the seam allowances at the ends of the collar, iron the stand allowances.

Prick the second post over the seam so as to overlap the stitching.

Baste the stand so that the basting goes on one side along the edge of the oblique inlay, and on the other side into the seam for attaching the collar. It is better to leave pins in the corners of the collar for better fixation of the stand.

Lay the line exactly on the edge of the inlay. Finally iron the stand.

Step 8. Processing the curly bottom of the shirt

You can process the bottom of the shirt in the classic way by tucking the allowances twice and stitching them. But my bottom of the shelves is much shorter than the bottom of the back, so it’s better to process it separately at the shelves and back.

Fold two shelves, check the symmetry of the bottom, trim it in case of unevenness.
Fold the shelves with the back. Where the roundings of the bottom end, make notches 5-7 mm along the allowances. This will be the end of the side seam.

Turn around the bottom of the shelves and the backrest separately with an oblique inlay (just like the stand, you just need to tuck the second cut of the inlay). At the slats, bend the ends of the inlay inward.

Step 9. Sleeve slits

Cut the bottom of the sleeve along the markings.

Trim with a bias tape that side of the cut, which is closer to the seam of the sleeve.

Make a cutting plank. The width of the strap in the cut is 4 cm (2 cm in finished form).
The length of the strap is 3 cm longer than the length of the incision. The top of the bar can be made as a corner or straight.

Cut out strips with 1 cm allowances.

Fold the planks in half lengthwise, stitch the top corner along the markings (3 cm above the cut).
Allowances in the corners cut and cut to 5 mm. At the end of the line, make a notch on the allowance.

Unscrew the strips, iron. Lay the finishing line along the fold of the bar to the height of the cut.

On the front side of the sleeve, put on and stitch the bar on the second side of the cut. Notch the allowance above the line.

Iron the allowance inside the bar, prick the second fold of the bar over the stitching seam.

Prick the bar over the slit and topstitch over the slit along the edge and top corner.

Here's what happened.

Step 10: Stitching in the Sleeve

On the front side sleeves sweep the allowances of the okat to a width of 5-6 mm and iron them.

Poke the sleeve into the armhole so that the armhole allowance does not protrude beyond the fold of the sleeve allowance.

Stitch the sleeve into the armhole 6-7 mm from the fold of the sleeve allowance. Important! The line must be at the same distance from the fold of the allowance, otherwise the seam will not be even.

Press seam allowances into armholes, pin and baste.

Sew the armhole allowance exactly along the edge of the allowance fold.

View of the stitched-in sleeve from the face of the shirt.

Step 11 Side Seams

Fold the allowances of the side seam and the seam of the sleeve so that one allowance protrudes 6-7 mm behind the other, chop them off and sew 6-7 mm from the smaller cut.

You can fold the allowances evenly, but then you have to trim one allowance. The first way is easier and faster.

Iron the protruding allowance to a smaller one.

Then lay out the details of the shelf and back, iron the allowances, then pin them on the seam and stitch on the details of the sleeve and shelf.

On the front side, a seam with a stitching turned out. Back seam with two stitches.

Step 12 Finishing the cuff

On the outer cuff, iron the hem allowance inside out and stitch it 1 cm from the fold.

Fold the cuff pieces face to face and sew them along the markings. Cut allowances in roundings to 1 mm, the rest - up to 5-6 mm from the line.

Iron the allowances on the block, like at the collar. Turn the cuff inside out and iron without the transition band. Along the fold line of the outer part, draw a line for attaching the cuff.

Sew along the outer edge of the cuff, starting and ending at the bottom cross stitch!

Lay the pleats at the bottom of the sleeve. From the front side, the folds of the folds look at the cut of the sleeve.

Insert the cuff into the sleeve from the wrong side! Stitch the cuff according to the markup. Trim the seam allowances at the ends of the cuff.

Iron the allowances into the cuff. Prick the folded edge of the cuff on the front side of the sleeve, overlapping the sewing line.

Sew the cuff along the edge of the fold. It turns out that on the front side the cuff has two parallel finishing lines along the bottom.

Step 13 Loops

Punch loops along the markup, sew on buttons. The loops on the bar go in the middle and along the bar, on the rack - along the rack, on the cuff - along the cuff and 5-7 mm from its short edge. The length of the buttonhole is equal to the diameter of the button plus 2 mm.

Buttons are sewn on a thread leg.

Svetlana Khatskevich

Svetlana graduated from the university with a degree in Sewing Production Technologist. She has been teaching sewing technology for over 20 years. He is a Senior Lecturer at the AcademyBurda. We know Svetlana from her work on the site since its inception. She generously shares her knowledge and infects with her love for sewing.
Sewing is creativity, fascinating and informative. Welcome to this bright and interesting world!

A shirt is an indispensable item in every woman's wardrobe. Depending on the style and material from which the shirt is made, it can be strict, businesslike, creative, smart…

Let's build a pattern - the basis of a women's shirt in a men's style according to individual measurements, on the basis of which you can easily model various styles in the future, and we will build a detail of a button fastener in the center of the shelf. This clasp is found in many shirts.

measurements

Neck half circumference (Ssh) = 17.3;

Semicircumference of the chest of the second (CrII) = 44;

Semicircumference of the chest third (CrIII) = 42;

Half the width of the back (Ws) = 16.8;

Half the width of the first chest (WgI) = 19.1;

Waist (St) = 31.7;

Semicircumference of the hips (Sat) = 46;

Back length to waist (Dst) = 42.7;

Back length (Ds) = 40;

Front length to waist (Dpt) = 42.6;

Chest height (Bg) = 24.6;

Shoulder height oblique front (Vpkp) = 23.2;

Shoulder height oblique back (Vpks) = 42.3;

Side Height (Side) = 22;

Thigh height (Wb) = 20;

Shoulder Width (Shpl) = 12

Building a basic pattern for a women's shirt in a men's style:

Let's build a pattern-basis of a women's shirt without darts, which is ideal for owners of a small breast size. For women with large breasts, it is necessary to provide a chest side tuck on the front pattern. Let's get started:

1. In the upper left corner, stepping back from the top about 7 cm, we set point A. From point A we bring down a vertical line - this is the line of the middle of the back.
2. On the vertical we set aside the segments: AT \u003d Ds \u003d 40; TB \u003d Wb \u003d 20; TG \u003d Sideways - (1.5 ÷ 2) \u003d 20; HP = (2÷3). From points T, B, G, P we draw horizontal lines to the right - these are the lines of the waist, hips, chest, armhole level.
3. From point A to the right, we set aside AP \u003d Csh / 3 + (1 ÷ 0.7) \u003d 6.4. From the point P upwards PP1 = Dst - Ds = 2.7. We connect A and P1 with a line, as in the drawing - the line of the neck of the back.
4. From point P to the right, we set aside PP3 = CrII + 1 + 4 = 49, where 4 is an increase in freedom of fitting for shirt-type blouses, based on 2 cm to the side seam of the front and back, so the total increase in chest girth will be 8 cm. From P3 we draw a vertical line - the line of the middle of the shelf. At its intersection with horizontal lines, we mark the points G3, T3, B3.

1. On the level line of the armhole, we mark PP1 \u003d Ws \u003d 16.8; P3P2 \u003d ShgI \u003d 19.1. We draw vertically upwards. We divide the segment P1P2 in half, mark the point P4, draw a vertical down.
2. From point P1 we draw an arc with a radius of P1Pl = Shpl +1 to a tuck +1 on a lowered sleeve = 14 and an arc with a radius of TPL = Vpks = 42.3. The intersection of the arcs - point Pl - shoulder point of the back.
3. We build a shoulder tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades: on P1Pl we mark P1P2 = 4. From the point P2 we lay down P2P3 = (8 ÷ 9); right Р2Р4 = 1; on P3P4 we postpone P3P5 = P2P3, connect the points P5 and Pl.

1. On the line of the middle of the shelf we mark Т3В = Dpt = 42.6. From point B to the left we set aside BB1 ​​\u003d AR - 1 \u003d 5.4. From point B we put aside BB2 \u003d AR \u003d 6.4 down. We build an arc B1B2 - the line of the neck of the shelf.
2. On the line of the middle of the shelf, we mark VC \u003d Bg \u003d 24.6. From the point C to the left, we set aside CC1 \u003d Cg \u003d 9.3.
3. From point B1 we draw an arc with a radius of V1Pl1 = Shpl +1 to a lowered sleeve = 13 and an arc with a radius of Ts1Pl1 = Vpkp = 23.2. The intersection of the arcs - point Pl1 - the shoulder point of the shelf. We connect points B1 and Pl1.

1. From P1 we set aside 7 cm upwards. BY THE LECAL, you can use it, we build the line of the armhole of the back Pl-7-P4, as shown in the drawing, it should be perpendicular to the line of the shoulder of the back. Point 7 is a guide, if it is not possible to draw a curved line through it without a break, then draw it next to it. We set aside 5 cm from P2 upwards. We build the line of the armhole of the shelf Pl1-5-P4, as in the drawing, it should be perpendicular to the line of the shoulder of the shelf and more “curved” to the point P4 than the armhole line of the back. This is necessary for the freedom of movement of the hands in the horizontal plane. Point 5 is also a guide, if you can’t draw a curved line through it without a break, then step back.
2. Check the width of the shirt at the hips. BB3 \u003d 49. Sat \u003d 46. Thus, the increase in hip circumference will be (49-46) * 2 \u003d 6. For a basic pattern, such an increase in freedom of fitting around the hips is enough for me. If you get a lower value, then you need to add the necessary centimeters along the hip line and adjust the side lines.

The base of the shirt bodice is built (drawing 5), on its basis, you can easily model various styles and make structural and decorative elements.

In the models of many shirts, there is a button closure in the center of the shelf, let's consider its modeling.

Button fastening design:

The button fastener, as in the photo, consists of two one-piece (cut out in one piece with a shelf) strips, on one of which (for women's shirts, the left one, if the shirt is worn by a person), buttons are sewn on, and on the other (respectively, the right one) loops are punched.

A slat pattern 3 cm wide, in this case, the distance from the middle of the shelf (button line) to the edge will be 1.5 cm, is constructed as follows:

1. We build an approach to the clasp: stepping back from the line of the middle of the shelf to the right 1.5 cm, we draw a parallel vertical line - this is the line of the edge of the clasp. It is very important to correctly draw the neckline so that the finished buttoned gate looks perfect. For this, the B2B4 arc must be a mirror twin of the B2B3 arc.
2. We build a hem inward: stepping back from the line of the edge of the fastener to the right 3 cm, we draw a parallel line. And here it is important to draw the line of the neck. The B4B5 arc should be the mirror twin of the B3B4 arc.
3. The bottom line of the bar is also a mirror twin of the corresponding section of the bottom line of the shelf. In this case, it is a straight line perpendicular to the line of the middle of the shelf.

You now have a basic pattern for a men's style sleeveless shirt with a round neck and a button closure. How to build a shirt sleeve pattern, in the article.