Fashion is the prerogative of women, accompanied by shoes, ribbons, skirts, handbags and more. Men can only take it for granted. Nevertheless, every woman believes that a man should always be dressed with taste.

The attribute of a respectable man is a business suit. However, no less important place is occupied by a men's vest. Today they are again experiencing another peak of popularity. It is no coincidence that the leading couturiers have added them to the latest collections, making them an integral element of the men's wardrobe.

Given the requirements, the vest must fit perfectly on any figure, so it has a rather complex design. The simplification of the model leads to excessive folds, an inflated silhouette, and buttons that do not fasten.

In its classic form, a men's vest, being an integral part of a business three-piece suit, should cover the waistband of the trousers. Being quite narrow at the waist, it does not restrict freedom of movement and, of course, it is made from the same fabric as the pants. Therefore, when wearing, the correct choice of size will play an important role. After all, if a loose fit is acceptable for trousers or a jacket, then the vest should be perfectly fitted to the figure: somewhat loose along the chest line and tightly fitting the waist.

However, when worn separately from the suit, the vest can have a variety of deviations from its classic version. These are insulated models with leather and fur inserts, and puffy, and quilted and leather of various colors. Perhaps puffy, as well as leather, or dressed on a naked body are far from the concept of elegance, but with the right selection of accessories and other clothing items that match the chosen style, they can create a peculiar image of the owner. Thanks to this, the men's vest is a worthy choice of extraordinary personalities, making it a key element of the image.

In combination with a suit, the vest is characterized by style and functionality, and when worn on a naked body - sexuality and eccentricity. Choosing the model you like, feel free to experiment with it, remaining courageous and fashionable.

With what and when to wear a men's vest

Through the efforts of designers today, men have a wide variety of vests, both in style and texture. These are jackets, and blouses, and cardigans, and all kinds of fur, leather, knitted vests. The list can be continued indefinitely. In this regard, for lunches and business meetings, models made of cashmere or suit fabric in plain colors are recommended. When going to a secular party, put on a satin silk vest. Denim, knitwear and jacquard are perfect for those who like to surprise and experiment.

Due to its functionality, the vest is such a unique element of clothing that it goes well with a shirt, T-shirt, and a suit. And those who believe that it can only be worn with a single-breasted button-down jacket are greatly mistaken.

2016-08-23 Maria Novikova

How to sew a warm vest for a child on a padding polyester? A padded quilted vest is a stunning piece in every wardrobe. Sewing a children's vest with your own hands is very simple and fast. My master class will help you sew an inflated vest for a boy with welt pockets in a clear and accessible way.

As you remember from the previous article, I told where I applied the unused material from and. From fleece I sewed a warm jacket, and from jacket fabric and insulation I decided to sew a children's insulated vest or a quilted vest in a different way.

The vest will be on a synthetic winterizer for my nephew's boy, but you can sew a vest for your child. How to sew a vest with your own hands without any hassle, see below in my master class.

You will need:

1. The main fabric is the length of the vest + 10.0 - 15.0 cm.
2. Lining fabric - vest length + 10.0 - 15.0 cm.
3. Insulation (synthetic winterizer) - vest length + 10.0 - 15.0 cm.
4. Zipper long - 1 pc.
5. Elastic thread - 1 pc.
6. Narrow elastic band - 1.5 - 2.0 m.
7. Threads in the color of the fabric - 1 pc.
8. Sewing accessories

How to sew a children's quilted vest?

In this article, I will not tell you in detail how to cut a children's vest, I will only state the essence. A vest pattern on a synthetic winterizer is a shelf and a back from any pattern of a shoulder product. Therefore, as a pattern, you can easily use a pattern of the appropriate size.

If you are a beginner and there are no patterns in your arsenal yet, then you can simply remove it from a suitable product. How to do this, see my video tutorial,. How to properly cut a vest and lay out patterns on fabric, I already wrote about this in a previous article.

After cutting, you should get 3 parts of the back and shelves from the main fabric, insulation and lining. All parts must be identical to each other.

Seam allowances when cutting:

• Shoulder, side, edge of the sides - 1.0 cm;
• Neck and armholes - 0.5 - 0.7 cm;
• Bottom - 5.0 - 6.0 cm.

Recommendation! When choosing a pattern for a quilted vest, consider the size of the pattern in relation to the future product. The insulated vest is the upper part of the clothing and is worn over warm jackets and sweaters. Therefore, the size of the pattern should be larger than the size of the child (about 1 size), in addition, take into account the growth of the child.

Sewing a vest

Pocket processing

After the cut details are received, you need to process the pockets on the shelves. For convenience, pockets are processed until all parts are connected, including insulation. As pockets on the vest, I chose a welt pocket in a frame with a leaflet. You will find how to process such a pocket in my master class.

Connection of parts with insulation

On the shelves of the insulation (in the place where the pockets are located), make slots for the burlap and push them through the slots obtained.

According to the model, the children's vest has horizontal stitching, which gives the product a puffy look, and also fastens the insulation and the upper part. To do this, on the details of the back and shelves, mark with chalk the lines along which the lines will pass. The wider the distance between the lines, the more voluminous the vest will be, the smaller the distance, the less significant the volume. Also consider the coincidence of the lines along the side seams on the shelves and back.

Fasten the details of the insulation with the details of the top with tailor's pins, and lay the lines along the marked lines. To give the lines a gathering, and the product volume, wind a rubber band around the bobbin, which will tighten the seams when sewing.

After connecting the parts, carefully cut off all excess insulation at the edges.

Connection of shoulder seams

Stitch shoulder seams and iron. Many sources say that it is impossible to iron the seams in such products, but from my own experience I will say that a light touch of the iron, through the iron with a little steam, will improve the aesthetic appearance of the product. Just be careful, you should not touch the insulation with an iron, as the fibers will melt, as well as the loss of its airiness.

basics

After fitting, the vest is laid out on a flat surface and changes are made along unmarked lines. Sometimes, this is a deepening of the armhole and neckline; clarification of the volume at the side seams or a change in length.

Collar neckline

Manufacture of stand collar

In this version of the children's vest, a model is presented without a hood on a stand-up collar. Therefore, you first need to make a collar. To do this, we measure the circumference of the neck and cut out a rectangle on the fabric in length equal to the circumference of the neck, and in width = the width of the stand in finished form + an allowance of 0.7 cm and multiplied by 2. The width of the stand can be taken 5.0 - 6.0 cm. (depending on the size of the child).

From the insulation, cut out the part = half the width of the rack, and the length = the length of the collar.

Connect the part of the insulation with the collar from the wrong side.

Align the center of the collar (where the insulation is) with the center on the back, align the cuts and pin the collar and neck with pins. Sweep and sew the collar into the neck.

Found unfamiliar words, then refer to and.

Stitching a zipper

Sweep and stitch the zipper into the vest, see how to do it in my master class When connecting the zipper to the product, step back from the bottom to the width of the allowance and start pinning the zipper from the bottom up to the middle of the stand-up collar.

When fastening a zipper, all horizontal seams and lines must be joined.

Lining processing

Stitch and iron the shoulder seams of the lining on the back. Sew along the armholes (from the wrong side in a zigzag stretch) a narrow elastic band, stepping back from the cuts 2.0 - 2.5 cm. Before starting work, measure the length of the elastic band, it should be slightly less than the length of the armhole.

Connecting the lining to the top

Lay the lining and body piece right sides together. Secure with pins at the shoulder seams so that the seams match. Sew the lining and the upper part of the vest along the armholes.

Sewing side seams

Connect the armhole in a closed line and secure with a pin along the side seam. Sew the side seams, starting at the bottom of the product, through the armhole, passing into the side seam on the lining and ending at the bottom of the lining.

Then sew the neck of the lining with the free cut of the collar on a typewriter.

Bottom processing

Sew a narrow elastic band along the bottom of the vest, stepping back from the cut 2.0 - 2.5 cm, the length of the elastic band should be slightly less.

Sew the lining and the main product along the bottom, but before joining, reduce the length of the lining by 5.0 - 6.0 cm so that it does not peek out when worn.

Bead processing

Connect the lining with the product along the sides on the shelves, while turning the ends of the collar and bottom to the width of the allowance.

Make a small hole (10.0 - 15.0 cm), supporting the side seam and turn the vest right side out.

Baste the piping along the zipper and lay the finishing stitches.

Collar fastening

Align the seams of the collar with the lining and the collar with the product. Baste them, and then secure with a stitch seam to seam.

Finishing

Remove all temporary threads, sew a hole in the side seam with blind stitches and sew a hanger in the form of a label to the neck. Fasten the armholes at the shoulder and side seams by placing seam-in-seam bartacks.

Do-it-yourself children's insulated vest

If you carefully looked through the master class on how to sew a children's vest with your own hands, then you noticed that there is no difficulty in this. A do-it-yourself vest is a great option for a child's wardrobe, as well as a great savings on your money. In my case, I spent only on the purchase of lightning. And how much does this vest cost in the store? A do-it-yourself vest on a padding polyester will always look original and special.

Choose any model or beautiful fabric and do-it-yourself children's insulated vest will bring joy to your child and of course you.

Models of insulated children's vests

Vests for boys

Vests with knitted hood.

Interesting vests for boys.

Vests for girls

September is the first bell that invites every year all children to school to gain knowledge. The main symbol of this clothing event is the school uniform, and the main detail of this uniform is the school vest. Today we have prepared for you a selection of children's vests for school, both for boys and girls.

It will not be difficult for you to sew it according to such patterns. Some of them come with detailed sewing instructions. We also picked up a few videos that show the sewing process, both with and without a pattern.

Ready patterns

For boy

All popular sizes

Sizes from 128 to 170. To make it more clear which size suits which age, I will make a small reference plate.

Size 128-134 - 9 years

Size 134-140 - 10 years

Size 140-146 - 11 years

Size 146-152 - 12 years

Size 152-158 - 13 years old

Size 158-164 - 14 years old

Size 164-170 - 15 years

Download patterns for a boy 9-15 years old -

Classic school vest for a boy

To school for 128-134 sizes

Video sewing instructions for a boy

Vests for girls to school

For 6-12 years

Sizes - 110, 116, 122, 128, 134, 140, 146, 150 cm - universal, in pdf

Sizes 128-170 cm

This vest pattern in its size is designed for girls aged 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 years old. Suitable for girls with small stature, as well as those who have it 150 or 160 cm.

Hello. The vest is a good thing for the boys. He gives the owner representativeness, teaches to be more collected. In addition, the vest has practical functionality.

Here you will find the construction of a vest pattern for a boy.

The general order of sewing this vest.

I put my sizes as an example, you will have your own. Sometimes, according to these dimensions, some calculations are more understandable.

• Semi bust - bust 77 cm / 2 = 38.5 cm;
• Neck girth - 36 cm;
• The length of the vest along the back, vertically from the base of the neck (from the seventh cervical vertebra) to the desired length - 47 cm;
• The length of the back to the waist, vertically from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist - 35 cm;
• Depth of cutout, in front vertically from the hollow between the collarbones to the desired depth of the v-neck - 9 cm;

Drawing

Rectangle Width \u003d Half bust plus an increase of 3-5 cm. Length = Measured back length of the vest.

Armhole I draw a vertical through the middle of the rectangle. Down from the top line I set aside the depth of the armhole. Armhole depth = Bust / 3 + 6 cm. From the middle in both directions I set aside half the width of the armhole. Armhole width = Bust / 4 + 2 cm.

Back neck and shoulder First I draw the neck as usual. 1.5 cm sprout height, sprout width \u003d neck girth / 6 + 0.5 cm I lower 2 cm along the armhole line and draw a line through this point from the top of the neck of the back. The bevels of the shoulders are different for everyone, so the descent of 2 cm goes as the initial one, on the fitting it can be adjusted by lowering or vice versa raising the shoulder line. I lower the neck line by 2 cm - this will be the neck of the vest. Shoulder length is measured 6.5 cm.

Neck and shoulder shelves From the right top of the rectangle I set aside the width of the neck of the shelf, the same as on the back. Vertical armhole down 2 cm. I connect the dots. From the neck point down the shoulder 2 cm is the neck point of the vest. From two further 6.5 cm is the shoulder of the vest. I make a neckline.

Armhole line.

Clasp Out of the middle of the shelf 1.5 cm. The bottom is custom made.

Darts I draw vertical tucks through the middle of the shelf and back. I take the width of the tucks 1.5 cm, 7.5 mm in both directions. If necessary, you can narrow the side seam at the waist and widen at the hips. Podbort and turning the neck of the back

I add details The tuck can be brought into the armhole. I take the point approximately in the middle of the armhole. I cut the pattern. When cutting, do not forget about allowances. On the bottom, I give an allowance of 3 cm, all the rest 1 cm. For trying on allowances, you can take 2 - 2.5 cm.

All mothers want their children to be dressed well, according to the season, so that the clothes are beautiful and of high quality. But, it is not always possible to choose an acceptable option among finished products, even in Moscow. What can we say about the cities in the outback. In this case, the ability to cut and sew a new thing for a child with your own hands will help out. Today we invite you to figure out how vests for boys are sewn. Consider school vests, warm, with a hood, as well as masquerade models. In addition, we will understand in detail how a vest pattern for a boy is made.

A practical, representative classic vest is very necessary for modern schoolchildren. This is evidence of a certain status, the transition from Malyshov's age to adulthood.

Boys learn to be more collected, serious. To sew a school vest for a boy with your own hands, you need to have some experience. If there is none, then you should not despair. You just need to simplify the model, refuse to perform welt pockets (this is perhaps the most difficult stage of tailoring), or practice this operation on waste fabric.

To sew a vest you need:

• fabric for the main part of the top - any suit fabrics will do;
• lining fabric - satin, viscose, polyester;
• interlining;
• buttons - 4 pcs.;
• thread, sewing tool.

Description

Building a vest pattern for a boy

In our master class, the construction of the pattern is made for certain sizes. Having dealt with the methodology for constructing a pattern, you can model the pattern according to your parameters.

Used sizes:

• chest semicircle (POG) - 38.5 cm;
• neck girth (OS) - 36 cm;
• the length of the product along the back (we measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the desired length) (CI cn) - 47 cm;
• back length to waist (measured from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist) - 35 cm (DS);
• cutout depth (measured in front of the cavity between the collarbones to the desired depth of the V - cutout) (GV) - 9 cm.

We start building a sleeveless pattern with a rectangle. Its width is equal to POG plus an increase in free fit of 3-5 cm. The length of the rectangle is equal to CI sp.

Draw a perpendicular down through the center point of the horizontal line. On it we set aside the depth of the armhole. It is calculated as 1⁄3 POG + 6 cm.

From the point of intersection of these segments in each direction, set aside 1⁄2 of the width of the armhole. Armhole width is calculated as 1⁄4 POG + 2 cm.

We draw a preliminary line of the neck. From the upper left corner to the right, measure the width of the sprout. It is equal to 1⁄6 OSH + 5 mm. Set aside the height of the sprout. For all sizes, it is 1.5 cm.

Lay down 2 cm along the armhole line and connect this point with the top of the neck. After trying on, the size of the shoulder bevel can be adjusted taking into account the features of the figure.

We draw the actual line of the neck of the vest 2 cm below the preliminary one. Set aside the shoulder length of 6.5 cm.

From the upper right corner, set aside the width of the rollout to the right (= the width of the rollout of the back). Then we measure 2 cm down the armhole line. We connect these points with a straight line.

We set aside 2 cm along it from the top point. We mark the top of the neck of the vest. Then we measure the length of the shoulder 6.5 cm.

On the right vertical (= center of the front), lay down 1⁄6 OSH + 1 cm + GV. We draw a straight line through this point and the upper point of the rollout, making a cutout.

We measure 2 cm from the lower points of the armhole rectangle along the bisector. We draw the curved line of the armhole as shown in the drawing.

We provide 1.5 cm for the entry of the shelf, we extend the roll-out line. We make out the lower cut of our choice or as shown in the drawing.

We draw vertically the middle lines of the front and back parts. We draw a waist line. Set aside 7.5 mm from the intersection points in both directions. If desired, the side seam can be slightly narrowed along the waist line and widened at hip level.

We mark the patterns of undercut facing and selection as shown in the drawing.

We designate places for drawstrings and pockets.

For the front part, transfer the tuck from the waist to the armhole. To do this, mark a point approximately in the middle of the armhole and draw a curved curve.

We expand the details by 1 cm along the side seam.

We cut the pattern.

Ready-made patterns for this vest model

For beginner dressmakers, a similar vest pattern for a boy may seem difficult to build. It is much easier to sew a vest for a boy according to ready-made patterns.

Therefore, we offer their options for different sizes:

• for 3 years;

• for 4 years;

• for 5 years;

• for 6 years;

• for 7 years;

• for 8 years;

• for 9 years;

• for 10 years;

• for 11 years.

Patterns need to be printed or redrawn in full size, given the scale.

cutting

For the vest considered in this master class. we will not do the turning of the neck.

From the main fabric we cut out:

• shelf - 2 children;
• back - 1 child. with a fold;
• selection - 2 children.

When cutting, we take into account the allowances for all sections of 1 cm, for the bottom - 2.5 cm.

We duplicate the pick-ups and details of the shelves with non-woven fabric, since the fabric is soft enough.

From the lining we cut out:

• shelves to the selection line - 2 children;
• back - 1 child. with a fold.

In the center of the back part we lay a fold for freedom.

We also make allowances along the cuts of 1 cm, along the bottom - 2.5 cm.

Sewing

We build tucks on the details of the front, iron them to the center. We also sew darts on the back, iron them to the center.

Making pockets.

How to make pockets so that it turns out neatly and correctly, we will consider step by step.

First, we strengthen the location of the pocket from the inside.

In our case, as mentioned above, we duplicated the entire shelf.

On the front side we mark a frame 2 cm (in finished form it will be 1 cm) by 12-14 cm.

We cut out two facings on the frame. Width = 3 cm, length = frame length plus 3 cm. Total: 15 cm.

We duplicate the facings, fold them in half, iron them. Draw a line from the fold line at a distance of 5 mm (= 1⁄2 of the frame height).

We apply the facing, combining the fold line with the markup. In addition, we combine the lines vertically, fix them with pins.

We carry out a machine seam according to the marking of the facing.

The stitch should start and end on vertical lines.

We fix the allowances with pins so as not to interfere.

Sew the second stitch in the same way.

We check on the wrong side - the distance between the lines should be 10 mm.

Cut out pocket burlap. Their length is equal to the length of the facing. Cut out the valance from the main fabric. Its length is 2 cm longer.

On the front side of the shelf, we apply burlap to the bottom facing, the valance to the top. We fix with pins.

We turn away and attach very close to the stitching seam of the facing.

We get - see the photo below.

The valance is specially turned away, for clarity.

We cut the entrance to the pocket. We cut the extreme side sections on both sides to the corners obliquely.

Note! We cut only one layer, we turn off the facings.

Turn the burlap and valance inside out.

We lay out the frame, corners. We pass the fixing line along the end of the frame.

We do the same with the second side.

Stitch the sides of the burlap.

We iron the pocket.

We carry out side seams, iron the allowances to the sides.