Developing the theme of building patterns for obese women, we offer another option for building the base of the dress. If in the first version we focused on figures of medium splendor and, as an example, we built a pattern for it, then in this section we will pay attention to ladies with more attractive shapes and, as an example, we will build the basis of a dress for size 60 semiadjacent silhouette. This technique, as well as any other, does not dictate any restrictions, but only recommends itself for use in cases where a woman’s chest girth authoritatively declares itself to be 120 centimeters or more.

To build a pattern drawing, you need to take the following measurements:

To more accurately take measurements, it is necessary to mark the starting points: the seventh cervical vertebra, which is well defined when the head is tilted, as well as the line of the shoulder at the base of the neck and at the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder.

Use pins or chalk for this if the woman is dressed. If you need to put a point on the body, use a felt-tip pen, which is easily erased with an alcohol-containing liquid after the end of this procedure.

It’s good if the person you are taking measurements from is wearing a thin dress, or better, only underwear. He, or rather she, since we are talking about a woman, should stand straight, without tension, i.e. maintain your normal posture. That is what I draw your attention to. Because, often a woman, when taking measurements or trying on, especially if she sees her reflection in the mirror, wanting to look slimmer, tightens her stomach, straightens her back, etc. The desire to look better is a good aspiration, but when taking measurements, it can distort the real state of things. And a well-fitting dress on fitting, in ordinary life, will not be as comfortable as we would like, and as it should be.

Therefore, considering the above, turn the client away from the mirror, distract the client with a peaceful conversation, tie a string around the waist, mark the starting points and proceed to measurements.

For example, we took measurements corresponding to size 60, and when building, all calculations will be based on the measurements given in the table below.

Be careful, you substitute in all formulas when calculating their values.

The experience of using this technique for constructing patterns suggests that an excellent result is easy to achieve under one condition: you need to accurately and diligently take measurements. It is on this that the outcome of all further work depends.

Name of measurements and symbols	cm	Taking measurements
Product length (Di)		Measure from the cervical point (seventh cervical vertebra), bringing the centimeter to the waist and to the required length.
Armhole depth (Gpr)		Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to a horizontal line drawn with a centimeter through the armpits.
Back length to waist (Dst)		Measured from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line, taking into account the prominence of the shoulder blades. To do this, a thin ruler can be attached to the protruding points of the shoulder blades, the centimeter tape should pass over the ruler.
Back width (W)		Measure horizontally along the shoulder blades, between the upper corners of the armpits.
Half neck (Ssh)		The measuring tape should pass along the base of the neck, behind the seventh cervical vertebrae, in front of the jugular cavity (depression).
Semi-girth of the chest 1st (СгI)		The centimeter tape runs horizontally, behind the protruding points of the shoulder blades, in front above the base of the chest.
Half bust 2nd (CrII)		The centimeter tape runs horizontally behind the protruding points of the shoulder blades, in front along the protruding points of the chest.
Groove opening size (Brv)		Measured vertically. It is removed simultaneously with the measurements of the half-girths of the chest. This is the distance from the base of the chest to its highest point.
Waist (St)		Measure horizontally at the narrowest point.
Half hips (Sat)		Measured horizontally, behind the protruding points of the buttocks, in front, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen.
Root height (Br)		Measure along the back from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waistline. The measuring tape runs parallel to the spine.
Back shoulder height (Vps)		Measure along the back from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Armhole Width (Spr)		It is measured horizontally under the arm: from the place of articulation of the arm with the body from the back side to the articulation of the arm with the body from the front side. It can be calculated using a ruler located horizontally in the armpit.
Side length (db)		Measure from the back side from the top edge of the ruler located in the armpit to the waist line.
Shoulder length (Dp)		Measure along the shoulder from the base of the neck to the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder.
Chest Height (Hg)		Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest.
Front Shoulder Height (RH)		Measure from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Front length to waist (dpt)		Measure from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waist line.
Center of the chest (Cg)		Measure horizontally between the most protruding points of the chest.
Front Width (W)		Measured horizontally above the base of the chest between the corners of the armpits.
Width of the front at the protruding points of the chest (ShpII) Control measurement		It is measured horizontally between the corners of the armpits at the most protruding points of the chest.
Sleeve length (dr)		It is measured from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the desired length.
Sleeve length to elbow (DRL)		Measured from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the elbow.
Arm circumference (Op)		Measured horizontally at the fullest upper part of the arm (at armpit level).
Girth of the wrist (hand) Oz		Measured at the wrist joint, taking into account the bone.
Free fit allowances For a free fit, add 4-5 cm to the measurement of the second half-girth of the chest Cr II, to the measure of the half-girth of the hips Sat - 3 cm and to the measure of the half-girth of the waist St - 2 cm.

DRESS SEMI-FITTING.

Back.

We draw in the right corner of the prepared sheet of paper a right angle with a vertex at a point R (Fig. 1).

Dress length.

from point R down we put the taken measurement of the length of the dress Di(102 cm) and put a dot H. (Fig. 1).

Fig.1

Armhole depth.

from point R put down the taken measure of the depth of the armhole Gpr (23cm) and put a point G.

Fig.2

Back length to waist.

from point R down we put the taken measurement of the length of the back to the waist Dst (40cm) and put a point T.

Fig.3

The length of the dress is to the hip line.

from point T down is usually delayed 18 - 20cm. We will take the average 19cm and put a dot B.

From points G, T, B and N to the left we draw horizontal lines of the depth of the armhole, waist, hips and bottom.

Fig.4

Center back line.

from point R postpone to the left 1cm and put a point P1 (back bevel). Section WG divide in half and mark the middle with the letter L. points P1 And L T postpone to the left 1.5cm and put a point T1.

points G, T1 And B connect with a smooth curve, as shown in Fig.5.

Fig.5

Back width.

from point G to the left we postpone the taken measurement of the width of the back Shs plus 0.5 cm (increase in loose fit) and put a point G1:

GG1 \u003d 21 + 0.5 \u003d 21.5 cm.

Through the dot G1 draw a vertical line up and down, put a dot at the intersection with the waistline T2.

Fig.6

Distance to the sideline (to the side seam).

from point G1 postpone to the left 1/2 armhole width Spr (14cm) minus 1cm and put a point G2:

G1D2=14:2-1=6cm.

The distance to the sideline may vary, it depends on the figure and style. If the figure is with a protruding belly, then the side line is closer to the back, and if the figure is with protruding buttocks, then closer to the front. And, of course, the side line can be in the middle of the armhole.

from point G2 draw a vertical line down to the line of the hips and put points at the intersection with the lines of the waist and hips T3 And B1.

Fig.7

from point P1 to the left set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck Ssh(21cm) plus 1cm and put a point R2:

Р1Р2=21:3+1=8cm.

Fig.8

from point R2 upward we set aside the difference between the measurements of the height of the sprout Wr(42cm) and back length to waist Dst(40cm) and put a point P3:

Р2Р3=42-40=2cm.

points P3 And P1 connect with a smooth curve.

Fig.9

from point T2 up we postpone the taken measurement of the height of the shoulder of the back UPU (36 from m) and put a point P.

Fig.10

Auxiliary point for the design of the armhole.

from point G1 set aside 1/3 of the cut PG1 and put a point ABOUT. From a point ABOUT circle through a point P, draw an arc.

Fig.11

Shoulder length.

From a point P3 compass (with a radius equal to the measured shoulder length plus 2.5 cm on the undercut) make a mark on the previously constructed arc and put a point P1:

R3P1\u003d 13.5 + 2.5 \u003d 16 cm.

points P3 And P1 connect with a straight line.

We make out the line of the armhole of the back.

points P1, O and G2 fig.12.

Fig.12

Along the line R3P1, oh t points P3 postpone to the left 1/3 taken measurement of the length of the shoulder and put a point IN:

R3B\u003d 13.5: 3 \u003d 4.5 cm.

from point IN down parallel to the line RL draw a straight line of length 9cm and put a point IN 1.

Fig.13

from point IN postpone to the left 2.5cm and put a point IN 2. from point IN 1 through a point IN 2 draw a line long 9cm and put a point IN 3.

Point IN 3 connect with dot P1.

Fig.14

from point T3 put aside to the right 2cm and put a point T4, which we connect with a point G2.

Fig.15

from point T4 up put off 1cm and put a point T5. points T5 And T1 connect with a smooth curve.

Fig.16

from point B1 to the left we set aside half the difference between the measurements of the semicircumference of the hips Sat and half-girth of the chest of the second SGII

B1B2= (Sat + 3cm) -(CrII+4 cm):2=65–64: 2 = 0.5 cm.

And we make a point B2

points T5, B2 connect with a smooth curve. from point B2 draw a vertical line down and put a dot at the intersection with the bottom line H1. (This is a straight dress). You can slightly expand the bottom of the dress to the bottom. How to do this, see the section Back bottom width fig.18.

Fig.17

from point G1 set aside 1/3 of the back width to the right (7cm) and put a point G3(thisdistance may vary). from point G3 draw a straight line down and at the intersection of it with the lines of the waist and hips, respectively, put points T6 And B3. from point G3 put down 4cm and put a point AT 4, and from the point B3 up - 3cm and put a point B4.

Fig.18

Along the waist line from the point T6 left and right put aside 1cm and put points T7 And T8, which we connect with points AT 4 And B4.

Fig.19

Fig.20

Back construction completed.

From points G2, T3, B1 and H1 to the left we draw horizontal lines: the depths of the armhole, waist, hips and bottom, set aside on them approximately 50 cm and put points accordingly G4, T9, B5 and H2.

Draw a vertical line through these points up and down.

Fig.21

from point G4 to the right we set aside the distance that we get as a result of the following calculation: the measurement of the half-girth of the chest of the second SGII(60cm) plus 4cm for a loose fit, minus the width of the back according to the drawing (21.5 cm) and minus the measured armhole width Shpr (14 cm) put a point G5:

G4G5 = 64-21,5- 14=28.5 cm.

Through the dot G5 draw a vertical line down and put a dot at the intersection of it with the waistline T10.

We check the width of the front by measuring the width of the front along the protruding points of the chest (ShnII). The width of the front in the drawing must be greater than the measure taken so that it does not turn out that the product is narrowed.

Fig.22

from point G5 to the right, set aside half of the measurement of the width of the armhole Spr(14cm) plus 1cmAnd put an end G6, from which we draw a vertical line down and at the intersection of it with the lines of the waist and hips we put points T11 And B6.

G5G6=14:2+1=8cm

Fig.23

from point T9 up we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the front to the waist Dpt (47cm) and put a point P4. from point P4. Draw a horizontal line to the right.

Fig.24

from point R4 put aside to the right 1/3 semicircumference of the neck Ssh (21cm) plus 1 cm and put a point P5:

P4P5 \u003d 21: 3 + 1 \u003d 8 cm.

Fig.25

from point R4 put down 1/3 semicircumference of the neck Ssh (21cm) plus 1.5 cm and put a point R6:

Р4Р6 \u003d 21: 3 + 1.5 \u003d 8.5 cm.

We connect points P5 and P6 with a straight line, divide it in half and mark the middle with a dot O1. from point O1 lay down at a right angle 1.5cm and put a point O2.

points P5, O2and R6 connect with a smooth curve and get the neckline.

Fig.26

from point R5 put aside to the right 1/3 measured shoulder length Dpl(13.5) and put the point P7:

Р5Р7 \u003d 13.5: 3 \u003d 4.5 cm.

Fig.27

from point G4 to the right we postpone the taken measurement of the center of the chest CG (12 cm) and put a point G7. points R7 and G7 connect.

Fig.28

from point R7 put down 1cm and put a point P2. points R5 And P2 connect.

Fig.29

From the point P7 down, we postpone the taken measurement of the height of the chest Vg (33cm) and put a point C.

Fig.30

from point C up put off 2.5cm and put a point C 1.

Fig.31

from point C upwards we postpone the taken measurement of the size of the solution of the tuck Vr (14cm) and put a point At.

From a point C through a point At draw an arc to the right .

Fig.32

from point At along the drawn arc, we postpone the difference between the measurements of the half-girth of the chest of the second CrII (60cm) minus half bust first CrI (53cm) put a point U1 .

YU1= 60 - 53 = 7cm.

This construction is conveniently done using a compass. To do this, we draw an arc from the point Y with a radius of 7 cm to the intersection with the previously constructed arc.

Place a dot at the intersection U1.

From a point C 1 through a point U1 draw a straight line on which we set aside a segment equal to the segment C1P2, and put a point P3:

C1P3 \u003d C1P2.

Fig.33

On a straight line Т10Г5, extending it upwards, we postpone the taken measurement of the height of the front shoulder Runway(35.5) and put a point P4.

Fig.34

from point G5 up put off 1/4 segment G5P4(4.65cm) and put a point O3. Dot O3 is an control mark when weaving the sleeves into the armhole. From a point O3 circle through a point P4 draw an arc to the right with a radius O3 P4.

Fig.35

From a point P3 draw an arc with a radius equal to: taken measure of the length of the shoulder Dpl(13.5cm) minus distance R5P2 (4.5cm) to the intersection with the previously constructed arc. Place a dot at the intersection P5.

P3P5=13.5-4.5=9cm.

points P3 And P5 connect straight .

Fig.36

points P5, O3 And G6 connect with a smooth curve as shown in fig.37.

Lateral line.

from point T11 postpone to the left 1.5cm and put a point T12. points T12 And G6 connect.

Fig.37

from point T12 up put off 1cm and put a point T13. points T13 And T9 connect with a smooth curve.

Fig.38

from point B6 to the right, set aside half the difference between the measurements of the semicircumference of the hips Sat and half-girth of the chest of the second SGII with free fit allowances:

B6B7= (Sat + 3cm) -(CrII+4 cm):2=65–64: 2 = 0.5 cm, and put a point B7:

points T13 And B7 connect with a smooth curve. from point B7, draw a vertical line down and put a point at the intersection with the bottom line H3.

from point H2 put down 2cm and put a point H4.

points H4 AndH3 connect with a smooth curve, thus making out the bottom line (This is a straight dress).

You can slightly expand the bottom of the dress to the bottom. How to do this, see the section "Width of the bottom of the front" fig.39.

Fig.39

Construction of a notch.

Section G5G7 divide in half and put a dot G8, from which we draw a straight line down and put points at the intersection with horizontal lines T14 and B8.

from point G8 put down 6cm and from the point B8 up - 3 cm and put points AT 5 And B9. from point T14 right and left put aside 1.25cm and put points T15 And T16, which we connect with points AT 5 And B9.

Fig.40

For full figures, starting from the 60th size and above, it is necessary to draw on the pattern deflection (retraction) line. For this, from the point B5 postpone to the left 1-1.5 cm (depending on the bulge of the abdomen) and put a point B10. points R6 And B10 we connect a straight line, extending it to the bottom line. The line drawn is the middle of the front.

Fig.41

Construction completed.

But before you start cutting, do not be too lazy to take a centimeter and check the main measurements again. Especially pay attention to the waist circumference, since in this technique, when constructing darts along the waistline, not a calculated value is used, but a constant. If during the check you find significant discrepancies between the figure and the drawing (exactly in waist circumference), they are easy to eliminate by reducing or increasing the opening of the tucks along the waist line.

Fig.42

This is a pattern drawing of the base of the dress - the basis for creating a wide variety of models. Before proceeding with modeling, it is necessary to check the pattern, “put” it on the figure, and, if necessary, make adjustments. And only after full confidence that everything is in order, you can safely begin to create.

I sincerely wish you success!

This section is dedicated to curvy women. We will consider and learn how to build patterns using several methods that are used when sewing clothes for obese women. Here, as in previous lessons, we use step by step instructions building drawings of the base of the dress, sleeves, etc.

As an example, in the first option, we will take measurements that correspond to size 54 (bust circumference 108cm), so to speak, for women of medium splendor. In the second option, we use, as an example, measurements corresponding to size 60 (bust circumference 120cm), for women with more magnificent forms. In both cases, we build patterns for the base of the dress. semiadjacent silhouette, in accordance with this, we take into account the allowance for a free fit along the lines of the chest, waist and hips.
You take measurements from your figure or from the figure of the person for whom you will sew a dress.
In any case, we recommend that after building a drawing and making a pattern, check it on something simple. For example, sew a dressing gown from cheap fabric. If you are not at all sure, use an old sheet or another thing that has served its age for sewing.

As a parting word: I wish you courage in your endeavors, perseverance, perseverance and patience in achieving your goal. Step by step, moving forward, you will overcome the path to perfection.
We use exactly step by step drawing instructions to demonstrate and convince you that in fact everything is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. When you look at the finished drawing of the base pattern and have not encountered anything like this before, you may get the impression that all this is incredibly difficult and almost impossible. However, I note that the impossible is most often just something that we have not yet tried to do. Good luck!

SEMI-FITTING DRESS FOR WOMEN OF MIDDLE COMPLETENESS (for example, size 54)

To build a pattern drawing, you need to take the following measurements:
Recommendation: Take the correct measurements. The whole result of your efforts will depend on this.
To more accurately take measurements, it is necessary to mark the starting points: the seventh cervical vertebra, which is well defined when the head is tilted, as well as the shoulder line at the base of the neck and at the junction of the arm with the shoulder. Use pins or chalk for this if the woman is dressed. If you need to put a point on the body, use a felt-tip pen, which is easily erased with an alcohol-containing liquid after the end of this procedure.
It’s good if the person you are taking measurements from is wearing a thin dress, or better, only underwear. He, or rather she, since we are talking about a woman, should stand straight, without tension, i.e. maintain your normal posture. That is what I draw your attention to. Because, often a woman, when taking measurements or trying on, especially if she sees her reflection in the mirror, wanting to look slimmer, tightens her stomach, straightens her back, etc. The desire to look better is a good aspiration, but when taking measurements, it can distort the real state of things. And a well-fitting dress on fitting, in ordinary life, will not be as comfortable as we would like, and as it should be.
Therefore, considering the above, turn the client away from the mirror, distract the client with a peaceful conversation, tie a string around the waist, mark the starting points and proceed to measurements.

There are some differences between the proposed methods. in the methods of taking measurements, in the number of measurements, in the name of the measurements, etc. In this technique, the procedure for taking measurements is as follows:

Name of measurements and symbols	cm	Taking measurements
Product length (Di)		Measure from the cervical point (seventh cervical vertebra), bringing the centimeter to the waist and to the required length.
Armhole depth (Gpr)		Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to a horizontal line drawn with a centimeter through the armpits.
Back length to waist (Dst)		Measured from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line, taking into account the prominence of the shoulder blades. To do this, a thin ruler can be attached to the protruding points of the shoulder blades, the centimeter tape should pass over the ruler.
Back width (W)		Measure horizontally along the shoulder blades, between the upper corners of the armpits.
Half neck (Ssh)		The measuring tape should pass along the base of the neck, behind the seventh cervical vertebrae, in front of the jugular cavity (depression).
Semi-girth of the chest 1st (СгI)		The centimeter tape runs horizontally, behind the protruding points of the shoulder blades, in front above the base of the chest.
Half bust 2nd (CrII)		The centimeter tape runs horizontally behind the protruding points of the shoulder blades, in front along the protruding points of the chest.
Groove opening size (Brv)		Measured vertically. It is removed simultaneously with the measurements of the half-girths of the chest. This is the distance from the base of the chest to its highest point.
Waist (St)		Measure horizontally at the narrowest point.
Half hips (Sat)		Measured horizontally, behind the protruding points of the buttocks, in front, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen.
Root height (Br)		Measure along the back from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waistline. The measuring tape runs parallel to the spine.
Back shoulder height (Vps)		Measure along the back from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Armhole Width (Spr)		It is measured horizontally under the arm: from the place of articulation of the arm with the body from the back side to the articulation of the arm with the body from the front side. It can be calculated using a ruler located horizontally in the armpit.
Side length (db)		Measure from the back side from the top edge of the ruler located in the armpit to the waist line.
Shoulder length (Dp)		Measure along the shoulder from the base of the neck to the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder.
Chest Height (Hg)		Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest.
Front Shoulder Height (RH)		Measure from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Front length to waist (dpt)		Measure from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waist line.
Center of the chest (Cg)		Measure horizontally between the most protruding points of the chest.
Front Width (W)		Measured horizontally above the base of the chest between the corners of the armpits.
Width of the front at the protruding points of the chest (ShpII) Control measurement		It is measured horizontally between the corners of the armpits at the most protruding points of the chest.
Sleeve length (dr)		It is measured from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the desired length.
Sleeve length to elbow (DRL)		Measured from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the elbow.
Arm circumference (Op)		Measured horizontally at the fullest upper part of the arm (at armpit level).
Girth of the wrist (hand) Oz		Measured at the wrist joint, taking into account the bone.
Free fit allowances For a free fit, add 4-5 cm to the measurement of the second half-girth of the chest Cr II, to the measure of the half-girth of the hips Sat - 3 cm and to the measure of the half-girth of the waist St - 2 cm.

Let's start building.
We draw in the right corner of the prepared sheet of paper a right angle with a vertex at a point R(Fig. 1).

Dress length.
From the point P down we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the dress Di(100 cm) and put a point H.

Armhole depth.
From the point P down we put off the taken measure of the depth of the armhole ( Gpr\u003d 21 cm) and put a point G.

Waistline.
From the point P down, we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the back to the waist (Dst=39 cm) and put a dot T.

Hip line.
from point T down is usually delayed 18 - 19 cm. We will take the average 18,5 see and put an end B.

From points G, T, B and H to the left at a right angle we draw horizontal lines: the depths of the armhole, waist, hips and bottom.

Back width.
From point G to the left, we postpone the measured back width Shs(19.5) plus 0,5 cm (increase in free fit) and put an end to G1:
GG1 \u003d Ws + 0.5 \u003d 19.5 + 0.5 \u003d 20 cm.

Distance to the sideline.
from point G1 to the left we set aside half of the taken measurement of the width of the armhole Shpr (12.5) minus 1 see and point G2:
G1 G2 \u003d Spr: 2 - 1 \u003d (12.5: 2) -1 \u003d 5.25 cm.
from point G2 draw a straight line down and put points at its intersection with the lines of the waist and hips T2 and B1.

Root width.
from point R postpone to the left 1/3 semicircumference of the neck Ssh(19cm) plus 1 cm and put a point P1:
PP1 \u003d 1/3 Ssh +1 = 19:3+1=7,3 cm.

Root height.
From point P1 upwards, we set aside the difference between the measurements of the height of the sprout Wr(41cm) and back length to waist Dst (39cm) and put a point R2:
P1P2 \u003d Vr - Dst \u003d 41 - 39 \u003d 2 cm.
points R And R2 connect with a concave smooth curve. We get the line of the neck of the back (line of the sprout).

Back height.
from point T1 up we postpone the taken measurement of the height of the shoulder of the back WPS(36 cm) and put a dot P.

from point G1 up put off 1/3 segment distance G1P and put a point ABOUT. Compasses from a point ABOUT draw to the left through the point P arc.

Shoulder length.
From the point P2 as from the center, with a radius equal to 15cm(taken measurement of shoulder length Dp (13cm) plus 2cm on the tuck), we draw an arc to the intersection with the previously constructed arc (see Fig. 12). Put a point at the intersection of two arcs P1.
R2 P1 =13+2=15cm.
points R2 And P1 connect.

Connecting the dots P1, O and G2 smooth curve, as shown in Figure 12, we complete the construction back openings.

Back shoulder tuck.
from point R2 left on the line R2 P1 set aside 1/3 of the measured shoulder length Dp and set point B;
P2B=13:3=4.3cm.
Draw a vertical line down from point B 8 cm and put point B1.

from point IN left along the line R2P1 postpone 2 cm and put a point IN 2. From a point IN 1 through a point IN 2 draw a line long 8 cm and put a point IN 3. points V3P1 connect with a straight line and get back shoulder line.

Lateral back line.
from point T2 put aside to the right 2 cm and put a point T3. points T3 And G2 connect.

Waistline shaping.
from point T3 up put off 1 cm and put a point T4, points T4 And T connect with a smooth curve (see Fig. 16).

from point B1 postpone to the left 1/2 C6 (60+3=63 cm) and second bust CrII with an added free fit (54+4=58cm) and put a point B2:
B1, B2 \u003d (63-58): 2 \u003d 2.5 cm. points G4 And B2 connect with a smooth curve.

Back bottom width.
from point H to the left we set aside a value that is equal to the width of the back along the hip line (see the drawing, this is the distance BB2) plus 2-3 cm and put a point H1. points H1 And B2 H1 up put off 1cm and put a point H2. points H2 And H connect with a smooth curve.

Back tuck.
Distance YG1 G3.from point G3 draw a vertical line down and put a dot at the intersection of it with the waistline T5, with a line of hips - a point B3. from point G3 put down 4 cm and put a point AT 4, and from the point B3 up - 3 cm and put a point B4.

Depth of tuck.
from point T5 to the right and to the left along the waist line, lay off along 1 cm and put points T6 And T7 AT 4 And B4(see fig. 20).

Back construction completed.

Front
back hem line HH1 let's continue to the left. from point H1 postpone approximately 45-50 cm and put a point H3. From a point H3 draw a vertical line up. From points G2, T2, B2 draw horizontal lines to the left until they intersect with the vertical. The points of intersection with the vertical line are denoted accordingly G4, T8, B5.

Front width.
from point G4 to the right we postpone the taken measurement of the semicircumference of the chest second CrII with an added free fit (54 + 4) minus the width of the back with an increase (according to the drawing ГГ1 = 20 cm) and minus armhole width (measurement taken 12.5 cm) and put a point G5:
Г4Г5=58-20-12.5=25.5cm.
Through the dot G5 draw a vertical line down, at the intersection of which with the waist line we put a point T9.

Distance to the sideline. from point G5 to the right, set aside half the width of the armhole Spr(12.5) plus 1 cm and put a point G6:
Г5Г6 \u003d 12.5: 2 + 1 \u003d 7.25 cm.
from point G6 draw a vertical line down and put dots at its intersection with the horizontal lines T10 and B6.

Front height.
from point T8 up we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the front to the waist Dpt (44 cm) and put a point P3

Neck width.
from point P3 draw a horizontal line to the right and put aside on it 1/3 semicircumference of the neck Ssh!(19cm) plus 1 cm and put a point R4:
R3 R4 \u003d 19: 3 + 1 \u003d 7.3 cm.

Neck depth.
from point P3 put down 1/3 semicircumference of the neck Ssh (19cm) plus 1.5 cm and put a point R5:
Р3Р5 \u003d 19: 3 + 1.5 \u003d 7.8 cm.
points R4 And R5 connect a straight line, divide it in half and mark the middle with a dot O1. from point O1 lay down at a right angle 1.25 cm and put a point 02 . points P5, 02 and P4 connect with a smooth curve and get the line of the neck of the shelf.

Center of the chest.
from point G4 to the right we postpone the taken measurement of the center of the chest CG (11 cm) and put a point G7. points R4 And G7 connect.

Chest height.
from point R4 down, extending the line Р4Г7, we postpone the taken measurement of chest height Vg (29.5 cm) and put a point C.

End of tuck.
Along the same line from the point C up put off 2.5 cm and put a point C 1. At this point, the chest tuck ends.

The size of the tuck solution.
from point C upwards we postpone the taken measurement of the size of the solution of the tuck Vrv (12 cm) and put a point U. From a point C, as from the center, through a point At draw an arc to the right.

Opening of the tuck.
from point At on the drawn arc, we set aside the difference between the measurements of the half-girth of the chest of the second CrII (54cm) and semi-girth of the chest of the first CgI (49cm) and put a point U1.
YU1 \u003d CrII - CrI \u003d 54 - 49 \u003d 5cm This construction can be done using a compass. From a point At, as from the center, radius 5cm draw an arc until it intersects with the previously constructed arc. Mark the point of intersection U1.
through dots C1 and U1 draw a straight line, continuing it up by an amount that is equal to the distance C1R4 and put a point P2:
C1P2 = C1R4.

Front shoulder height.
On a straight line T9G5, extending it upwards, from the point T9 we postpone the taken measurement of the height of the shoulder of the front runway (35 cm) and put a point P3.

Auxiliary armhole point.
from point G5 up put off 1/4 distances G5P3 (4.5 cm) and put a point 03 . Dot 0 3 - check Point. When wetting the sleeve into the armhole, it connects to the mark on the sleeve at the point ABOUT
From a point 0 3 circle through a point P3 draw an arc to the right.

Shoulder length. From a point P2 , as from the center, with a radius equal to the measured shoulder length Dpl, (in our case 13cm) draw an arc to the intersection with the previously constructed arc and put a point P4 . points P4 , 0 3 And
G6 we connect with a smooth curve, thereby completing the construction of the armhole in front .

Lateral front line.
from point T10 postpone to the left 1.5 cm and put a point T11. points G6 and T11 connect with a straight line.

Waistline shaping.
from point T11 up put off 1 cm and put a point T12. points T8 and T12 connect with a smooth curve.

Formation of the lateral line in the thigh area.
from point B6 put aside to the right 1/2 difference between hip measurements Sat with an added free fit (60+3=63 cm) and second bust CrII with an added free fit (54+4=58cm) and put a point B7:
B6 B7 \u003d (63-58): 2 \u003d 2.5 cm.
points T12 and B7 connect with a smooth curve.

Bottom front width.
from point H3 to the right, set aside a value that is equal to the width of the front along the hip line (see the drawing, this is the distance B5B7), plus 2-3 cm and put a point H4. points B7 And H4 connect with a straight line. from point H4 up put off 1 cm and put a point H5.

Front extension.
from point H3 put down 2 cm and put a point H6. points H6 and H5 connect with a smooth curve.

Construction of a tuck.
Distance G7G5 divide in half and put a dot G8. from point G8 down we draw a vertical line, and at the intersection with the lines of the waist and hips we put points T13 and B8. from point G8 put down 6 cm, and from the point B8 up - 2 cm and put points B5 and B9.

Groove depth.
from point T13 right and left put aside 1.25 cm and put points T14 and T15, which we connect with points B5 and B9. (See Fig.42)

Construction completed.
But before you start cutting, do not be too lazy to take a centimeter and check the main measurements again. Especially pay attention to the waist circumference, since in this technique, when constructing darts along the waistline, not a calculated value is used, but a constant. If during the check you find significant discrepancies between the figure and the drawing (namely in the waist circumferences), they can be easily eliminated by reducing or increasing the opening of the tucks along the waist line.

This is a pattern drawing for the base of a dress - a guide to creating a wide variety of models. Before proceeding with modeling, it is necessary to check the pattern, “put” it on the figure, and, if necessary, make adjustments. And only after full confidence that everything is in order, you can safely begin to create.

And remember, the road will be mastered by the walking one!

I sincerely wish you success!

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Today we will learn how to model two of them: a dress and a jacket:

dress pattern

Let's take a closer look at the photo of the dress, the pattern of which we have to do. Seam under the bust, with 7/8 sleeves and a wide skirt that is gathered at the junction with the bodice. The bottom of the sleeve is gathered with a drawstring with an elastic band or braid. The mouth is expanded, round, processed by a slanting inlay. Breast tuck from the side seam under the armhole. Pockets are processed on the skirt - the entrance to the pockets can be made in the side seam, or it can be “framed”. Because the dress is loose - no clasp is required. The fabric for tailoring is linen, although you can use woolen crepe and mixed fabrics for the cold season if desired.

To model the model, we needIt can be easily generated on our website according to your own individual measurements. It's very easy and fast, just enter your measurements in the form, online will do the rest for you. You can print on any printer, even at home, or save to a flash card and print at a copy center. Technological allowances for freedom of fit are already included in the construction and have the minimum required values. We will correct the fit degree of our model a little later in the modeling process by retracting the side seams. So, here's what we got.

Print on any printer and cut out. Waist darts will be ignored. Next, we model on paper.

1 step. We straighten the side seams, taking them a little to the side for more volume in the waist area and even higher, under the armhole. We lengthen the future pattern of the dress, in accordance with the sketch or at your request.

2 step. Raise the waist line 5 cm up. Bring the chest tuck into the side seam under the armhole.

3 step. Expand and deepen the neck line. Cut off the bodice from the skirt on the details of the back and front pattern, then the modeling will take place on the details of the skirt.

4 step. On the details of the skirt pattern, mark the longitudinal lines along which to cut and push the details to increase the volume of the skirt. On the front part of the skirt panel, mark the location of the pocket and the pattern of the burlap itself. The entrance to the pocket is located in the side seam and starts 12 cm down from the line of attachment of the skirt to the bodice detail, see fig.

5 step. Sleeve modeling. Expand the sleeve at the bottom to the width of the sleeve under the armhole, cut along the middle, part according to the diagram so that the pattern is trapezoidal (the sleeve below is wider than under the armhole). Adjust the bottom line of a slightly arched curve. The bottom of the sleeves in the dress is gathered with an elastic band.

Dress pattern is ready. Sew - boast on ours)

Jacket pattern

Unlined jacket, made of dense fabric such as loden, boiled jersey or any other similar with non-shrinking cuts. One-piece sleeve, apache collar, without fasteners, patch pockets with flaps on the front.

For modeling, we will use, which you can also generate using our website. Allowances for loose fit are automatically added to the generator.

1 step. To begin with, let's draw auxiliary lines from the highest points of the neckline of the front and back through points lying 2 cm above the end points of the shoulder, with a length equal to the length of the sleeve + the length of the shoulder. We mark the deepening of the armholes by 4-5 cm with transverse marks. see fig.

2 step. From the points that raise the line of the shoulder, draw sloping lines of the upper cuts of the sleeve. see fig. The width of the sleeve at the bottom is equal to the girth of the wrist + an increase in freedom (7-10 cm).

3 step. Expand and deepen the neck. We draw the line of the board parallel to the middle line of the shelf at a distance of 6 cm.

4 step. The construction of the apache collar.

Through the highest point and the middle (lying at the intersection of the midline of the shelf and the neckline) point, draw an auxiliary straight line, extend it upwards and set aside a segment on it equal to the length of the neckline of the back. Draw this segment with a curved line. This is the line for stitching the collar into the neck of the back. The floor is at a right angle to it, to the right, set aside the width of the collar 8-9 cm and connect it with a curved convex-concave line, see Fig., With a point that limits the apache collar. According to the sketch/photo of the model, the end of the collar lies at the level of the armhole depth, and its width is approximately equal to 20-25 cm. For the most accurate definition, we recommend making a model from an inexpensive fabric.

5 step. Construction of a patch pocket.

The pattern of the original jacket is ready. Good luck with your sewing! Be beautiful!

On a conventionally typical figure. This pattern is ideal for women with standard figures. Today, due to your numerous requests, we will tell you how to build a pattern-base of a dress / blouse in a large size - for women with beautiful Rubensian forms.

Before proceeding with the construction of a dress pattern, it is necessary from the figure. When taking measurements, stand straight, keep your hands freely along the body. When taking measurements, do not try to reduce the volume: if there is a small tummy, do not pull it in strongly, because we do not do this all the time, in ordinary life, and the finished dress may be narrow when worn.

Increases in freedom of fit should be taken from, according to the chosen silhouette. In the article, the construction is shown on the example of a dress of an adjacent silhouette with an increase in freedom of fitting of 3 cm (to the half-girth of the chest). Of these, add 0.5 cm to the width of the back, 1 cm to the armhole and 1.5 cm to the width of the front of the dress.

For construction, we use the measurements of a standard size 56:

1. Back width 42 cm
2. Armhole width 12.5 cm
3. Chest width 48 cm
4. Width over bust 38 cm
5. h = 12 cm
6. Center chest 22cm
7. chest height 33cm
8. Armhole depth 22 cm
9. Length to back waist 1 (DTS1) 45 cm
10. Length to back waist 2 (DTS2) 47 cm
11. Shoulder height oblique 48 cm
12. Shoulder height oblique front 50 cm
13. Shoulder length 13cm
14. Length to waist front (accident) 51 cm
15. hip height 20cm
16. Neck girth 42 cm
17. Shoulder length 13cm
18. Waist 96cm
19. Hips 122 cm
20. Back length 100 cm.

Rice. 1. Dress pattern for large size - measurements

How to accurately measure the width and depth of the armhole?

To measure the width and depth of the armhole, use a strip of paper 4-5 cm wide and about 30 cm long.

• Armhole width: hold a strip of paper horizontally under your armpit, put serifs to the left and right by hand (Fig. 2).
• Armhole Depth: Hold a strip of paper horizontally under your armpit, pull the strip over your back. Measure the depth of the armhole from the 7th cervical vertebra to the strip of paper (Fig. 3).

Rice. 2. How to take measurements

Advice! To open drawings and drawings in full size, open each in a new window.

Rice. 3. How to take measurements for a pattern

Building a dress pattern for a large size

Back construction

We begin the construction of the pattern with the construction of the back. Step back 10-15 cm from the top of the paper and put point A in the left corner. Draw a vertical line down from point A and a horizontal line to the right. AN=100 cm (dress length according to measurements).

The depth of the floodplain of the dress. From point A, lay down the length of the armhole depth according to the measurement + 0.5 cm for a free fit for all sizes: AG \u003d 22 + 0.5 \u003d 22.5 cm.

Rice. 4. Building a dress pattern for a large size - back

Back length to waist. From point A, lay down the length of the back to the waist according to the measurement: AT \u003d 45 cm.

The line of the hips of the dress. From point T, lay down 20 cm: TB \u003d 20 cm (hip height by measure). From the obtained points, draw horizontal lines to the right.

Back width. From point G, set aside to the right along the line 1/2 of the width of the back by measure + 0.5 cm (increase in freedom of fitting from). GG1 \u003d 21 + 0.5 \u003d 21.5 cm. Draw a straight line upward from point G1 - point B is obtained.

Armhole width. From the point G1 set aside to the right 1/2 of the width of the armhole according to the measurement with an increase of 1 cm for all sizes: G1G2 \u003d (12.5 + 1) / 2 \u003d 13.5/2 \u003d 6.75 cm.

Back line. From point G2, lower the perpendicular down to the bottom line. Received points T1, B1, H1.

Back neckline. From point A to the right, set aside 1/6 of the neck circumference according to the measurement + 1 cm for all sizes: AA1 \u003d 42/6 + 1 \u003d 8 cm.

From point A1, set aside the difference between the measurements DTS2 and DTS1: A1A2 \u003d DTS2-DTS1 \u003d 47 cm - 45 cm \u003d 2 cm. Connect points A and A2 with a concave smooth line. Got a back neckline.

Back shoulder. From point T, draw an arc with a radius R = 48 cm (The height of the shoulder is oblique according to the measure).

Dress back shoulder length. The shoulder length of the back is calculated by the formula Dpl \u003d Shoulder length by measure + 2 cm (per tuck) \u003d 13 + 2 \u003d 15 cm. From point A2, draw a shoulder line 15 cm long so that the extreme point of the shoulder lies on the arc - point P.

Back armhole line. Divide the segment ВГ1 in half - an auxiliary point has been obtained for constructing the armhole line of the back. Connect the points P, the middle point of division VG1 and the point G2 with a smooth line, as shown in fig. one.

Back shoulder tuck. From point A2 to the right along the shoulder, set aside 1/3 of the length of the shoulder - point B1, from the resulting point lower down a perpendicular 8 cm long - point B2.

From point B1 to the right along the shoulder line, set aside a tuck depth of 2 cm - point B3. Connect points B2 and B3 with a straight line. The right side of the tuck В2В3 = В1В2. Connect points B3 and P with a straight line - you got the shoulder line of the back. Draw the sides of the tuck with slightly concave lines.

The line of the side of the back at the waist. In order for the dress to comfortably fit the figure in the waist area, it is necessary to calculate the difference between the width of the back mesh and 1/4 of the waist circumference according to the measurements: (1/2 Back width with an increase + 1/2 Armhole width with an increase) minus 1/4 FROM by the measure = (21.5 + 6.75) - 24 ≈ 4 cm. We will increase this value by 2.5 cm, taking it from the allowance for a free fit. Thus, the total excess fabric that needs to be removed in the darts will be 6.5 cm.

Why it is needed: to make the silhouette of the dress more fitting along the waistline. Set aside 2 cm from point T1 to the left - point T2. Connect points T2 and G2.

Divide TT2 in half and lower the perpendicular down to the line of the hips. From the point of intersection with the waist line, set aside 1.5 cm to the left and right (tuck depth = 3 cm). Draw a tuck not reaching 4 cm to the GG1 line and 3 cm to the BB1 ​​line.

Side seam back. Since the width of the grid is built according to the measurements of the chest, and the hip circumference is much larger, we calculate the lack of volume for the hips: BB1 = (hip circumference - chest circumference) / 4 = (122-112) / 4 = 2.5 cm. H1 by 2.5 cm and draw a line of the side seam through the points T2-B2-H2.

Center back seam. With an arched back, as well as to create a more fitted silhouette from the T point, set aside 1-1.5 cm to the right and draw the middle seam of the back as shown in fig. 4.

Building the front

Extend all horizontal lines to the right. Set aside 40-45 cm from point H2 to the right and set point H3.

Draw a vertical line from point H3. Points B3, T3, G3 were obtained.

The width of the front of the dress. From point G3 to the left, set aside 1/2 of the width of the chest according to the measure (Width of the chest at the protruding points) with an increase in the free fit G3G4 \u003d 24 + 1.5 cm \u003d 25.5 cm. Draw up a perpendicular line of arbitrary length.

Rice. 5. Dress pattern for large size - back and front

The width of the armhole in front of the dress. From point G4 to the left, set aside 1/2 of the width of the armhole with an increase of 6.75 cm (similar to the back) - point G5 is obtained. Draw a vertical line from point G5 down to the bottom line: points T4, B4, H4 are obtained.

Front height. Set aside 51 cm from point T3 upwards (Length to the waist of the front according to the measure) - point W is obtained.

Front neck width. Draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length from the W point to the left and set aside 1/6 of the neck girth according to the measurement + 1 cm for all sizes: ШШ1 = 42/6 + 1 = 8 cm. point Ш2 is received.

Center of the chest. To find the location of the top point of the chest tuck C, use 2 measurements:

Chest height (SH) = 33 cm
Center chest (CG) = 22 cm
From point Ш1, draw down a straight segment Ш1С with a length of 33 cm (measurement Height of the chest), so that the distance CC1 is 11 cm (½ measurement Center chest).

From point C, set aside h \u003d 12 cm upwards (measurement between the levels of the width of the chest and the width above the chest). From point C, using a compass, draw an arc with a radius of CC2 = 12 cm.

Chest tuck depth. From point C2 along the arc, set aside to the left ½ of the difference between the measurements Chest width and Width above the chest: (48 - 38) / 2 \u003d 5 cm - point C3 is obtained. Connect points C and C3 with a straight line, extend the segment up. Length SS1=SS3.

Shoulder in front of the dress. From point T3, draw an arc with a radius R = 50 cm (Shoulder height oblique front according to the measure).

Shoulder length at the front of the dress. Set aside 13 cm from the W3 point (the length of the shoulder according to the measure) so that the extreme point of the shoulder lies on the arc: W3P1 = 13 cm.

The line of the armhole in front of the dress. Set aside G5G6 ≈ 6.5 cm (an auxiliary point for constructing an armhole in front) and draw an armhole line through the points P1-G6-G5.

Tail darts in front of the dress. Let's calculate the tucks: (Front mesh width minus ¼ waist circumference by measure = (25.5 + 6.75) - 24 = 8. It is this value that needs to be removed in the side and in the tackle darts. The depth of the side tuck is 3 cm, the depth of the right of the traveling darts - 3 cm, the depth of the left traveling darts - 2 cm. From point T4 set aside 3 cm to the right - point T5. Connect point T5 with point G5. The length and location of the traveling tucks are shown in Fig. 2.

The line of the side of the back along the hips. Side seam in front. Calculate the lack of volume in the hips similarly to the back: B4B5 \u003d (Hip girth - Chest girth) / 4 \u003d (122-112) / 4 \u003d 2.5 cm. Set aside 2.5 cm from points B4 and H4 to the left and draw a line of the side seam through the points T5-B5-H5.

The dress pattern for the large size is ready. Then move on to building. To do this, you will need to take measurements (see Fig. 1-2):

1. The length of the sleeve
2. Shoulder girth
3. Wrist circumference.

After the pattern is built, it needs to be checked. To do this, sew from mock-up fabric. Try on and evaluate the accuracy of the basic design. Make changes if necessary.

Now you know how to build an accurate basic dress pattern - share it with others! You will find even more original patterns and interesting ideas for creativity on the website of the Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School. Sign up for a free subscription and be the first to receive new lessons!

Cloth. It may vary in size. What may look good on one woman may not work well on another. So why torture yourself with clothes of an incomprehensible size when you can wear your sophisticated look of clothes in plus sizes. Patterns for large size clothes are not so difficult to make. It just takes a little effort. You can make patterns of clothes of large sizes of such types: a pattern of a dress or trousers. After all, today fashion has changed a little. After all, if a couple of years ago clothes in model sizes were in fashion, today there is a revolution in the fashion world. More and more preference is given to men by women who are not like these "bony" models. These models torture themselves with different diets, and they look like hungry cats. Yes, women "in the body" are in fashion. Here we can recall that in the old days in Russia, men preferred plumper women. Why would you say? Yes, because they could bear healthy offspring. And the thin ones could not guarantee that their children would be healthy. So the men were looking for women in the "body". They knew that their children would not have health problems. Probably, the men changed their minds and realized that healthy offspring are more important than these “bones”. So that lovely women should not be discouraged by their vaga, remember what happened in Russia? Yes, fashion is back again, so feel free to make patterns for clothes in large sizes, and the way others envy you.