A man's wardrobe starts with a suit in the same way that a theater starts with a hanger and a popular nightclub starts with face control. Only at first glance it seems that the suit is a boring thing. Only those who do not know how to wear them think so. There are hundreds of options for a classic suit and combinations of its details - in all the variety you need to find the one that suits you. In order to accurately determine the correct model, ask yourself a few questions.

So what do you need the suit for and what do you want to tell them? Where will you go in it? For a wedding? To work? Or, maybe, on a friendly picnic (yes, yes, a real dandy will certainly put on a suit for a picnic; and if this is a meeting of gentlemen, then an informal summer suit will be quite in place)? Do you want to make a million dollar impression, or is your goal a trendy, flashy look that will make you stand out from the crowd? The king of men's English fashion, Sir Paul Smith, says: “The most common mistake that I notice is the desire to keep up with fashion, as well as the discrepancy between clothing and person. You must study yourself well, know your height and complexion, take into account age and lifestyle.

All you need in your wardrobe is a nice dark suit, tie, the perfect black tuxedo, blazer, jeans, and a pair of perfect shoes." Tom Ford

A classic suit is primarily a jacket and trousers made of the same fabric. A three-piece suit (in this case, a vest is added to the jacket and trousers) is a more formal option, suitable for especially formal occasions. Two-piece suits are comfortable and versatile. The jacket and trousers can be worn together - with or without a shirt and tie - for informal gatherings and events. The two can be divided by combining its “halves” with other wardrobe items: a jacket with trousers of a different color or jeans, trousers with a shirt and a vest or with thin knitwear.

Modern fashion allows - and even welcomes - the combination of dress pants with a polo shirt and colored socks (as fashion stylists do men's magazines). However, such experiments require sufficient experience and a certain courage.

The ideal costume fabric is wool, 100% or mixed with cotton, silk, linen. But a suit made of synthetics quickly begins to shine on the folds, does not allow the skin to breathe, and it looks, what can I say, cheap. It is because of such unsuccessful instances that many people think of the suit as uncomfortable and stuffy clothing.

The classic colors of the costume are shades of blue and gray. Cold shades slim, favorably emphasize the figure and are suitable for almost everyone. It is easy to pick up a shirt in blue or lilac tones for them. A black suit is appropriate at a wedding, funeral, or event preceded by an invitation with a mysterious black tie mark (we'll talk about dress code rules below). A white suit is suitable either for gangsters, or - provided that it is sewn from thin linen - for oligarchs going on a boat trip on their own yacht. The main thing to remember when choosing a suit is that it must be true to size, and ideally fitted to the figure by a professional tailor. A perfectly fitting suit - even if it is crimson - will open any door for you.

Classic costume rules

Comments by Mikhail Nazarov, manager of the Moscow boutique Raschini on Nikolskaya, 10

1 The main thing is that the suit sits!

Mikhail Nazarov The correct fit of the suit is a guarantee that it will emphasize the dignity of your figure and hide the flaws, and therefore, an important factor influencing the perception of your person. Each person is unique, so the perfect suit must be made to order.

ELLE for Man If you are not yet ripe for individual tailoring, do not be too lazy to spend time fitting the finished suit to your figure - this service is free in good costume shops.

2 Length theory

M.N. The length of the jacket and trousers largely determines appearance and perception of the costume as a whole. The sleeve should open the shirt by one and a half centimeters, and the "accordion" on the trousers is unacceptable!

ELLE for Man After putting on your jacket, put your hands in your pants pockets. If the floors of the jacket do not interfere - the choice is right.

3 important little things

M.N. It is hard to imagine a sophisticated suit without such integral details as open buttonholes on the sleeves or hand stitching. These little things confirm the prestige of the costume, and handmade gives it better fit.

ELLE for Man In a suit, all details must be functional. A theater ticket and a credit card will fit in special ticket-pocket pockets, everything else is usually kept in a briefcase or bag.

4 Fit exactly

M.N. There are three types of men's suits: American - for a tall and athletic figure, English - for narrow-shouldered and tall, European - the most versatile. A competent consultant will help you choose the right size.

Elle for man Ready-made suits are sewn according to different patterns - based on the height and proportions of a person. Even if you are sure that your figure is perfect, do not buy a suit without trying it on.

5 Attention to detail

M.N. Finding “your” tailor is a great success, akin to meeting a personal doctor, psychologist, etc. This should be a person who subtly feels your mood and desires, comparing them with the spirit of the times and modern fashion trends.

ELLE for Man Every self-respecting man should one day have a suit tailored to his measurements. This is not such an expensive pleasure as it seems, especially since with proper care such a suit will last for many years.

6 Seasonal approach

M.N. As the British say, "there is no bad weather, but there are wrong clothes." Of course, the material of the costume should be chosen according to the season. In spring and summer, choose lighter fabrics (thin wool with the addition of silk, linen and cotton), in autumn and winter - dense, textured materials (flanel, thick wool, cashmere, mohair).

A men's suit is recognized by all stylists as an important part of the modern man's wardrobe. Any successful man should have at least 2-3 suits for different occasions.

Earlier there was an article about oriental clothing -, and today we will talk about men's suits.

Men's fashion differs from women's in restraint and static tendencies, since men are more conservative. Changes in men's fashion can be seen in the appearance of new fabrics, the length of trousers, sleeves, and the color of a tie.

Men's suits - models and types

There is a great variety of suits for men. They differ in models, the purpose of their operation.

According to the models, they are divided into:

• Single-breasted - with a jacket, in which a row of buttons is on one side, and loops on the other. It is the most versatile style worn by over 85% of men. By the way, it suits everyone.

• Double-breasted is a more formal strict model for formal events. The buttons on the jacket are arranged in two rows, the floors have a deep smell. The rule of wearing is that the jacket fastens with all buttons. Looks great on tall thin men.

• A three-piece suit is universally recognized as a classic and a manifestation of perfect taste. It consists of a single-breasted jacket, vest and trousers, which are sewn from the same fabric.

Separation by purpose

You should not wear the same costume for all occasions, as they say, in a feast, in the world and in good people. Men's suits are:

1. Solemn - these are business cards, tuxedos, tailcoats.

• A business card is a kind of half-coat, the sides of the jacket are narrowed to the bottom, and at the back the length reaches the level of the knees. Fastens with one button. It is recommended to wear complete with a white shirt, bow tie, striped trousers, always with a vest and black boots.

• A tuxedo or, as it is also called, a club jacket. Now it is customary to wear it for protocol events, which begin in the evening after 5-6 hours.

The jacket can be either single-breasted or double-breasted with wide satin lapels. It is sewn from black material, but in countries with a warm climate, white is acceptable. A tuxedo is worn complete with a boiled white shirt and the same bow tie, must be complemented by a scarf in breast pocket, vest and wide belt.

• A tailcoat is an evening option for special occasions or formal events with a strict dress code. The jacket is shortened in front and has narrow long tails in the back. The set comes with tight trousers without a belt, but with a high belt, and on the sides with double silk stripes, a snow-white handkerchief in the pocket and the same gloves. Tailcoats are worn with a starched white shirt, a waistcoat of the same color, a bow tie, and also with black patent leather shoes.

2. Informal - designed for every day, they are sewn from various fabrics. Such a men's suit can create an informal, even slightly casual look.

This group includes:

• Casual - suitable for work, parties with friends and any informal events.

Can be worn with an open shirt collar and without a tie. It is allowed if the jacket and trousers are sewn from different fabrics.

• Fashion item - one-season options suitable for everyday wear or friendly parties. They are sewn from linen, cotton or even silk fabrics and create an image of casual elegance.

1. Business - the most common niche, which differs in the way of tailoring.

Types of suits by sewing methods

• English is the most strict. Perfectly sits on slender thin men.
• Italian - tailored to the male figure, very elegant, suitable for almost everyone.
• American - free tailoring, suitable for overweight men. Appropriately looks at informal events.
• European style - is a simplified model of a classic men's suit.
• German looks somewhat baggy, a good choice for overweight men.
• French is very suitable for dense men of not tall stature, who look elegant and graceful in them.

Men's suit - trends of the season

This year, the color trends in the clothes of men and women have something in common. Black, dark blue, grey, brown colors are classic. They are suitable for all seasons. Now men can wear clothes in pastel shades.

Versace suits

Fashion house Versace proposed to combine a dark and light shade of gray in an image. As a result, the costume looks elegant, stylish, the effect of "glow from the inside" is observed.

Designers this season have worked on the length of trousers and sleeves. The pants now reach to the ankle, and the length of the sleeve varies from the elbow to the bone at the wrist.

Always up-to-date three-piece suit this season is more fashionable than ever. It is made from one type of fabric and in one color. For a festive look, you need to pick up accessories.

Trussardi

Trussardi designers proposed introducing velvet jackets into men's everyday life. It is not necessary to wear total velvet, it is enough to decorate the suit with velvet elements.

Polo Ralph Lauren and Umit Benan

Polo Ralph Lauren and Umit Benan proposed to bring back into fashion such an attribute of the men's wardrobe as a fedora hat. This is a classic men's hat made of felt, which appeared in the early 20th century. Especially common among residents of Western countries and large industrial cities. This accessory is still elegant, gives the image style and originality.

fashion plaid

The cage is back in fashion. Robert Geller and Joseph Abboud showcased a line of men's tartan suits in denim. This image is wonderful for walking and for festive events.

Street style

In style, a combination in a suit is allowed different colors. You can complement the image with bright elements: ties, scarves, scarves.

For formal occasions, fashionable classics are always suitable.

What other fashion houses offer

Dolce & Gabbana, Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger offered to perpetuate popular media heroes by placing them on T-shirts and shirts.

Joshua Kane offered an original style for modern fashionistas. At the fall-winter 2016-2017 show, men's suits of the latest models were shown, combining two colors: burgundy and gray. The designer offers to complement the image with a wide-brimmed hat.

Another trend of the season is men's khaki suits. He can be great option as daily wear. In this case, it is better to wear it with a cotton shirt or a thin sleeveless sweater. This suit can be combined with a green tie, with a bright polo shirt. For festive events, it is better to choose a white shirt. The image will be discreet, but at the same time elegant and stylish.

The choice should be taken responsibly, since it forms the image as a whole, allows you to hide some figure flaws and emphasize the merits.

A men's suit creates an image of a man, they talk about his success. It is better that the suit fits you perfectly, spend money once and order it from a good tailor.

Publications in the Traditions section

Short story male fashion XVIII - early XX century

In a place with the Kultura.RF portal, we recall how the male appearance has changed over the course of several centuries.

Lush outfits and petimeter dandies

Costume of Peter I. Everyday caftan, camisole. Semi-silk, woolen fabric, linen ribbed fabric, fringe. Early 18th century Photo: reenactor.ru

Male caftan. 18th century Photo: mylitta.ru

Costume of Peter I. Festive caftan, camisole, pants. Cloth, satin, cotton baize, silk thread, embroidery. Turn of the XVII - XVIII centuries. Photo: reenactor.ru

For a very long time - until the 18th century - the men's costume was not inferior to the women's in brightness and abundance of decorative details. The clothes of that era differed from modern ones, but the basis of the men's three-piece suit was already formed then. Today it is a jacket, vest and trousers, and in the 18th century - a caftan, camisole and culottes.

The caftan, as a rule, was sewn so that it tightly fitted the torso to the waist, but the floors - knee-length were wide. The cuffs were also spacious. long sleeves. The caftan did without a collar, the outer garment was only partially fastened or not fastened at all: a camisole was visible under it. He almost completely repeated the style of the caftan, but was usually sleeveless.

Culottes - as they were called in France - short pants, the prerogative of noble and wealthy people. During the French Revolution, the rebellious commoners were called "sans-culottes", that is, "sans-culottes": they wore long trousers that were comfortable to work in.

Everyday men's suits were made of wool and cloth, formal suits were made of velvet, silk, and satin. The tailors tried to emphasize almost all the details of the caftan and camisole with decor - embroidery, gold and silver galloons, and the cuffs and collar of the shirt were trimmed with lace.

Under the camisole, men, like women, wore a shirt. At that time, she played a very important hygienic role, because often the rest of the clothes from expensive fabrics could not be washed. Aristocrats preferred shirts made of thin snow-white linen. Stockings were worn with short pants, white ones were also considered the most elegant.

European aristocrats paid much attention not only to clothes, but also to shoes and accessories. Shoes with high heels by modern standards were decorated with buckles. Boots were also worn, but less often: they were shoes for travel, travel and hunting. A wig was put on the head, richly sprinkled with powder. The most popular type of it is an artificial hairstyle with tight curled curls on the sides and tail tied with a black bow. Keeping the wig clean and well-groomed was difficult, but still easier than if you had to style your own. long hair. The costume was completed by a cocked hat, a long cloak and many decorative details: gloves, a snuffbox, a cane, rings and other jewelry. Fees for the appearance of the then dandy, or, as they were called in France, "petimeter", took a little less time than the lady.

"Great Male Refusal" and Dandy

Men's suit. Tailcoat. 18th century Photo: letopis.info

Men's suit. 18th century Photo: costumehistory.ru

Men's suit. Frock coat. Early 19th century Photo: foto-basa.com

By the end of the 18th century, fashionable clothing had become both simpler and more comfortable. Although France was the trendsetter in that era, in the field of men's suit this role gradually passed to England. Unlike the French aristocrats, who spent most of their time at the royal court, English gentlemen lived most of the year on their country estates, and horse racing and hunting were the most popular pastimes. This required an appropriate suit. Men began to wear frock coats - robes like kaftans, but simple and loose. They were equipped with both a collar and clasps - a convenient protection from the weather.

Later, a tailcoat came into fashion - a kind of frock coat with cut floors. Over time, the floors of the tailcoat became more and more narrow, and gradually turned into tails. And on caftans, and on frock coats, and on tailcoats, they always made a cut in the back, so that it was convenient to ride. Under the tailcoat, they wore not a long camisole, but a short vest, which was already very reminiscent of a modern one. And gradually the suit for an active lifestyle turned into an elegant urban one.

The silhouette of the costume changed in general: it became more and more elongated. And with it, the ideals of male beauty also changed. A slender and fit figure was now a matter of pride.

At the end of the 18th century, men abandoned brocade and silk and began to wear only woolen and cloth robes. Luxurious trim, lace on shirts, and powdered wigs, and cocked hats are gone. Soon, short pants were also “cancelled” - they, like white stockings, were worn only on the most solemn occasions, for example, at a ball. V Everyday life switched to long pants: first, tight-fitting pantaloons, and then the trousers we are used to today. It was a time that is sometimes called the "great male rejection" - the rejection of the colorful suit.

First in England, and then in the rest of Europe, dandyism was born - a cultural canon that included both costume and demeanor. Dandies were distinguished by restraint and exquisite conciseness of the outfit. Former luxury was replaced by minimalism. But every detail of the elegant suit - the color of the waistcoat, the fabric of the shirt, the knot of the tie - was carefully thought out. At the same time, it was supposed to look at ease, as if the selection of a suit did not cost its owner any effort. The famous Pushkin line “you can be a practical person and think about the beauty of your nails” speaks of such an important component of a dandy's life as self-care. Well-groomed, perfectly shaved, in an immaculately snow-white shirt, slender - this is the image that men of the first quarter of the 19th century aspired to.

In the 19th century, men's costume changed slowly, important role it was the details that played in it. The tailcoat has become the most important piece of clothing, appropriate in any situation. Over time, the width of the lapels, the line of the shoulder and the length of the tails changed, but in general it remained the same. In addition to frock coats and tailcoats, men began to wear business cards - a cross between these two attires. The top hat became the most fashionable headdress for more than half a century. A funny word"shapoklyak", familiar to many since childhood, actually means a special cylinder with a hidden spring. The high headdress could be folded down so that it would not interfere when a man entered the premises. Vests remained the only relatively bright item in the wardrobe. Sewn from velvet or silk fabrics, including patterned ones, they contrasted with dark tailcoats and light trousers. There were an incredible number of ways to tie a tie, and one or the other was in fashion.

Restrained classics and "graceful men"

Men's suit. 2nd floor 19th century Photo: mir-kostuma.com

Men's suit. 2nd floor 19th century Photo: mir-kostuma.com

By the 1840s, the tailcoat began to move into the category of a formal, evening suit, and a more comfortable frock coat became everyday wear. Ten years later, the jacket began to supplant him. Gradually, the functionality of clothing took up and a men's suit was formed, similar to the modern one. The "hero of time" became a business man, for whom convenience was the main thing. From the middle of the 19th century, elegant fabrics completely disappeared from the men's suit. Even waistcoats have now become restrained, they were usually sewn to match the color of trousers. A three-piece suit appeared, in which all three items are sewn from the same material. Shirt collars, once tall and uncomfortable, have shrunk, and ties that were once cravats have become narrow strips of cloth. Has changed and outerwear: instead of voluminous capes and raincoats, a coat came into fashion. Cylinders were still worn, but with the advent of the bowler hat - a hat with a rounded, very rigid crown - they became an accessory exclusively for evening dress. In a word, that system of everyday and evening costume has developed, which exists to this day.

Over time, clothing became more and more loose, because, among other things, sports began to influence it. Men began to wear cropped trousers, blazers, jackets, tweed jackets, soft castor hats and straw boaters. Tuxedo appeared as a kind of evening suit.

Having formed, the basic men's wardrobe changed slowly: the classic suit became quite comfortable, its cut masked figure flaws well. In addition, it was almost universal - both modest officials and aristocrats could wear the suit.

Factories ready-made clothes made fashionable modern clothes more accessible and widespread. Therefore, the dandies of the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries had to think over the details of their costume even more carefully than petimeters and dandies. There were many nuances of what and in what situation it is appropriate to wear. There were even special articles and publications with instructions like "Handbook of a graceful man." However, even at the beginning of the 20th century, it was not enough to read it and order a good wardrobe to the tailor - one could not do without talent and taste or position in society.

And although it seems that much has changed since then, a modern man, if he only agrees to take a serious look at fashion, can find a lot in common between himself and the fashionistas of the past.

The history of men's costume: from the 18th to the beginning of the 20th century