Construction of a men's jacket according to the system of M. Muller and son

Let's designate the dimensional signs necessary for the construction of the back and shelves:

Merck	Designation	Measurement
Bust	Og	-
Growth	R	-
Length of the product	Di	-
Back armhole height	Vpr.z	(measured or calculated Vpr.z \u003d 1/8Og + 12cm) + 2.5cm (increase on the drawing)
Armhole front height	Vpr.p	Vpr.z + 2.5cm
Back length to waist	dts	(measured or calculated 1/4R) + 1cm (increase on the drawing)
hip height	wb	measured or calculated Wb. = 1/8R
Back neck width	Shsh.z	measured or calculated Shsh.z \u003d 1/10 of 1/2Og + 3cm + 0.5cm (increase on the drawing)
Back Width	Shs	(measured or calculated Ws = 2/10 * Og + 2.5-4cm - with Og up to 100cm, Ws = 1/10 * Og + 12.5-14.5cm - with Og over 100cm)
Armhole Width	Shpr	(1/8*Og + 2.5-4.5cm)
Back neck width	Shsh.z	(1/4*From + 0-0.5cm). Doesn't count if Shpzh< Шг, в этом случае считается Шпж=Шг
Chest Width	Shg	Chest width (2/10 Og + 2-4cm)

(1). Let's start building from the back. We draw a vertical AE = Di. On this vertical, we set aside the segments AB = Vpr.z, AC = Dts, CD = Wb. We draw horizontal lines through all points on the vertical (Fig. 1)

(2). Divide the segment AB in half - we get the point A '. On the line of the hips, set aside the segment DD '= 2.5cm, draw the segment D'A' and extend it to the bottom line, we get point E'. From the point of intersection of the segment D’A’ with the waistline from point C, set aside 0.5 cm to the left - we get point C’. Let's draw a line in the middle of the back E'C'A'. Let's designate the places of intersection with horizontals as B', D' (Fig. 2).
(3). From point A to the left horizontally, we set aside the value of Shsh.z, we get point A1. From point A1 upwards, we set aside the segment A1F = 2.5 cm. Let's draw the neck of the back (Fig. 2).

(4). From the point B' to the left, we set aside the segment B'B1 = Шс. Let's draw a vertical B1A2 (Fig. 3).
(5). From point A2 down, lay down the segment A2G \u003d 3cm. Draw a straight line FG and continue it beyond the segment B1A2. On the continuation of this line from the point G, set aside 1 cm - we get the point F1. We get the shoulder line of the back (Fig. 3).

(6). On the segment B1A2 up from the point B1, set aside the segment B1G1 = 1/4Vpr.z. From point G1 to the left, draw a segment G1G2 = 1 cm (Fig. 4)

(7). On the line of the chest from point B1 to the left, set aside a segment B1B2 \u003d 1/2 * Shpr + 1.5 cm. Let's draw a vertical line from point B2. Points of intersection with contour lines will be denoted by points С1, D1, E1.

(8). Draw an armhole line through points B2, G2, F1 (Fig. 6).

(9). Set aside approximately 5 cm from point B2 to the left, as the gap between the drawing of the back and front. We get point B3. From point B3, set aside the segment B3B4 = 1/2 * Shpr - 1.5 cm. Draw a vertical through point B4 to the line of the hips (Fig. 7).

(10). From point B4 upwards, set aside the segments B4H = 1/4Shpr, V4H1 = 1/4Vpr.z. Point H is a control sign for sewing in a sleeve (Fig. 8).

(11). From point B4 draw a segment vertically upwards B4H2 = Vpr.p. Draw a horizontal through H2. From point B4 to the left, set aside the segment B4B5 \u003d Shg. From point C2 to the left, set aside the value of Shpzh (if Shpzh< Шг, то от точки С2 откладываем величину Шг). Ставим точку С3. Чертим линию середины полочки через крайнюю левую точку на линии груди - A3-B5-C3-D3-E3, где Н2А3 - перпендикуляр к линии середины полочки (рис. 9).

(12). From point B5 to the right, set aside the segment B5B6 \u003d Shsh.z + 1cm. From point A3 to the right, set aside the segment A3A’3 = 1 cm. Connect points A'3 and B5. Draw a segment B6A4 through point B6, parallel to segment B5A'3 (Fig. 10).

(13). From point A4 down along the segment A4B6 set aside the segment A4I \u003d Shsh.z + 2cm. from point I draw a perpendicular II1 to segment A4B6. Draw a neck line (Fig. 11).

(14). From the point H2 down, we set aside the segment H2H3 \u003d 4.5 cm. Let's draw a straight line A4H3 (auxiliary line for constructing the shoulder cut). From point A4 along the straight line A4H3 set aside the segment A4J = FF1 (from the drawing of the back) - 0.5-1 cm. Draw an armhole line through points J, H1, B3 (Fig. 12).

(15). Let's move the line of the shoulder towards the shelf by 1 cm: on the shelf, in parallel, move the shoulder 1 cm down, on the back, raise the shoulder by 1 cm. At the armhole, lower the end of the shoulder cut by 0.5 cm and draw the end section of the shoulder cut with a smooth line (Fig. 13).

(16). Set aside 1.5 cm along the waist line inward from points C1 and C2. We get points C'1 and C'2. Connect points B2, C'1, D1. Continue straight line C'1D1 until it intersects with the bottom line at point E'1. Similarly, we obtain a side cut of the shelf B3, C'2, D2, E'2. Perpendicular to E'D' from point E' draw a segment E'K (Fig. 14).

(17). From the middle of segment E'K draw a perpendicular to E'1D1. On the segment E'1D1 we get the point K1. From C'2 down we put the segment C'2K2 = C'1K1. Draw a perpendicular to C'2E'2 from point K2 to the left. On the line of the middle of the shelf from the waist line down, set aside the value C'1K1 + 1 cm. Let's draw the lines of the bottom (Fig. 15).

Once again, we will check the increase in the chest, waist and hips, check the pairing of parts.

To build a sleeve, we need the following dimensional features:

Merck	Designation	Measurement
armhole height	VPR	from the drawing of the back and shelves
Armhole length	DPR	from the drawing of the back and shelves
Sleeve width at the bottom	shrn	by model
The length of the sleeve	dr	-
Eye height	wok	Wok = 1/2*Vpr - 6.5-7.5cm
Slanted sleeve width	Shr	1/2*Dpr - 2.5-3.5cm

(18). Let's start building the sleeve. We measure the length of the armhole in the drawing on the back and shelf and add both results (Dpr). Let's determine the height of the armhole (Vpr), for this we draw a segment J'B4 and F'1B'1 (F'1B'1 is perpendicular to the chest line BB5). Add the values ​​of the segments J'B4 and F'1B'1 (Fig. 16)

(19). Let's draw a vertical line LO = Dr. On this vertical we set aside the segment LM = Wok. From the point O we set aside up and down 1.5 cm - we get the levels of the lower points on the lines of the front and elbow rolls of the sleeve. Let's denote the points O' and O". Let's determine the location of the elbow line: segment MN = 1/2*O'M - 1.5cm, segment NO' = 1/2*O'M + 1.5cm. Let's draw horizontal lines from all points (Fig. 17).

(20). From the point M upwards, set aside the segment MM '= 1/4 * Shpr. Set aside 1.5 cm along the elbow line from point N - point N 'is obtained (Fig. 18).

(21). From the point O 'on an oblique lay off the value of 1/2 * Shn until the intersection with the straight line from the point O ”(this is convenient to do with a compass). Let's get the point P. From the point N 'let's set aside along the line of the elbow the segment N'Q \u003d 1/2 * Shn + 4-5cm. Connect the points P and Q. PQ - the lower part of the elbow roll of the sleeve (Fig. 19).

(22). From point M 'on an inclined straight line, set aside the value of Shp until it intersects with the horizontal from point L (this is convenient to do with a compass). Point L1 received. Let's draw a small vertical down from this point (Fig. 20).

(23). Vertical L1L'1 \u003d 1/4 * Spr. We divide the segment LL1 with additional points. L2 - the middle of the segment LL1, point L' - the middle of the segment LL2, L2L'2 = 1/3*L2L1. Let's draw segments as shown in Fig. 21.

(24). At a distance of 2 cm from the point M1 to the left, we find the point M'1. Let's draw a segment M'1L'1. On this segment from the point L'1, we set aside the segment L'1R = 2cm. Draw a horizontal line through the point R until it intersects with the continuation of the segment L1L'1 at the point R'. On the continuation of RR', we set aside the segment R'R1=R'R. Connect L'1 and R1 (Fig. 22).

(25). With the help of guides and additional points, we draw the sleeves from M 'to R1. From M ”set aside 4 cm to the right. We get point M3. Draw the segment M3N2 parallel to the segment M”N’. Let's mirror the segment M3N2 with respect to M”N' - we will get the segment M2N1. From the point M3, using the guide M'1R, we will draw lower part okata (Fig. 23).

(26). Let's complete the lower part of the eye by connecting the points M' and M3 with a smooth curve. Let's mirror this arc with respect to M'M" - we will get another lower part of the M'M2 circle. Connect point Q on the elbow line with points R and R1. From the point N2 we set aside the segment N2O2 parallel to N'O'. The segment O'O2 will be mirrored with respect to N'O'. Let's draw the segment N1O1 (Fig. 24).

(28). Let's draw the lines of the elbow sections in the upper part of the sleeve with smooth lines (Fig. 25).

It is necessary to check the size of the fit on the sleeves. It should be 8-10% of Dpr (depending on the properties of the material). Also, be sure to check the pairing of the sleeve parts.

Paid Sizes

The size	Bust	Waist	Hip girth
size 44 height 170 cm	88	78	94	Payment for goods Buy
size 46 height 172 cm	92	82	98	Payment for goods Buy
size 48 height 174 cm	96	86	102	Payment for goods Buy
size 50 height 176 cm	100	96	106	Payment for goods Buy
size 60	120	118	124	Payment for goods Buy

* As a result of payment, a file with a pattern is automatically sent to the email address you specified. If the file has not arrived, then you need to check whether you entered the correct postal address when paying. In any case, if you do not receive the pattern, you do not need to pay again, just contact immediately at [email protected]

**You can offer your payment option in the website feedback

Patterns are given without seam allowances.

The composition of the set of patterns:

Sample size measurements:

Details of the lining and insulation are cut out according to the patterns of the top. The pick-up and facing are marked on the main patterns.

The description of the sewing of the model is made for size 44.

You will need:
- main fabric 2.50 m wide 1.50 m;
- insulation 2.0 m wide 1.50 m (in 1 layer);
- lining fabric 2.0 m wide 1.40 m;
- Detachable zipper 70 cm long - 1 piece;
- zipper 20 cm long - 2 pcs.;
- interlining (to strengthen the entrance to the pocket with a zipper);
- buttons;
- threads for sewing.

Cutting from the main fabric:
- before -2 details;


- hood - 2 parts;
- collar - 2 parts with a fold;
- windproof strip - 4 parts (internal and external);
- selection - 2 parts;
- turning the neck of the back - 1 piece with a fold;
- upper pocket flap - 4 parts;
- lower pocket - 2 details;
- sidewall of the lower pocket - 2 parts;
- bottom pocket flap - 4 parts;
- facing the entrance to the welt pocket with a zipper.

Cutting from insulation:
- before -2 details;
- back - 1 piece with a fold;
- sleeve - 2 parts (cut out 5-6 cm longer);
- hood - 2 parts;
- collar - 1 piece with a fold;
- windproof strip - 2 parts (split 1 into 2 parts);
- upper pocket flap - 2 parts (split 1 into 2 parts);
- lower pocket - 2 parts (stratify 1 into 2 parts);
- sidewall of the lower pocket - 2 parts (stratify 1 into 2 parts);
- lower pocket flap - 2 parts (split 1 into 2 parts).

Cutting from lining fabric:
- before -2 details (without pickups);
- backrest - 1 piece with a fold (excluding the facing of the neck of the backrest);
- sleeve - 2 parts (cut out shorter by 5-6 cm);
- hood - 2 parts;
- top pocket burlap - 4 details;
- one-piece burlap of a welt pocket with a zipper with a length of 2 lengths of the entrance to the pocket and a width equal to the width of the pocket.

Adviсe:
- if desired, you can insulate the jacket with a double layer of insulation and lay a windproof membrane. In this case, the jacket pattern should be taken one size larger;
- for convenience in work, it is better to sweep away the corresponding parts from the main fabric and insulation immediately after cutting. For front details, this must be done after completing the zippered pockets.

Operating procedure
1. Run a welt pocket in a frame with a zipper. To do this, apply a reinforced non-woven facing of the entrance to the pocket with the front side to the front side at the place of the future location of the pocket. Draw a markup-frame on the facing, just lay a small machine line along it. Cut the frame in the middle, in the corners - obliquely. Turn the facing inside out, sweep the frame, releasing the piping from the front. If necessary, shorten the zipper by removing excess teeth. Place the zipper under the facing on the details of the front. Sew off the front side. On the braid located below the entrance to the pocket, stitch the burlap. Turn it down, iron it. Fold in half, stitch the other end to the other zipper braid. Sew burlap on the sides.
2. Connect the details of the lower pockets to the sidewalls, fold the wrong side to the wrong side and lay the finishing stitch on the edge. Iron the sidewall allowances to the wrong side, align the pockets with the markings and sew. At the entrances to the pockets, make bartacks.
3. On the chest, make welt pockets with set-in leaves. On the front side, draw a rectangle for the entrance to the pocket. To its lower side in the face, sew a leaflet (folded in half with stitched burlap) to the top - another burlap with a valance. Cut through the front detail, turn out the pocket, straighten, stitch. Align the burlap and stitch along the perimeter.
4. Sew top/bottom flaps and windshields in pairs around the perimeter face to face. Turn out, straighten, iron, stitch. Sew the flaps to the front piece.
5. Prepare the hood in the same way.
6. On the details of the main fabric and lining, perform shoulder seams, sew in sleeves. Sew the side seam and the seam on the sleeve with a single line. On the sleeve made of lining fabric, leave a hole unsewn for turning the product inside out. Sew to the lining already combined along the shoulder sections of the selection and facing the neck of the back.
7. Sew the outer part of the neck stand and the hood into the neck of the jacket, the inner part into the neck of the lining. Connect and grind the neck racks along the upper edge. Insert the lining into the product.
8. Bend the facing of the sleeve, stitch the bottom of the sleeve. Connect the bottom of the sleeve with the lining. Repeat steps for the second sleeve.
9. Install the buttons on the outer windproof bar (it will be on the left), the counterpart on the details of the front (on the right), as well as on the pockets.
10. On the right side, insert an inner windproof strip between the sides and pick-ups of the jacket, swept with a zipper braid, stitch from the inside. On the left side, attach the second part of the zipper, grind.
11. From the inside, hem the bottom edge. Connect the seam allowances of the inner and outer parts of the neck stand with a stitch. Unscrew the product through the hole in the sleeve. Stitch the bottom edge of the jacket, sides and collar.
12. Stitch the outer windshield (like a valve) to the left side.

Every woman wants to please her beloved man. Pattern and tailoring of a men's jacket with your own hands, made according to individual sizes, will sit perfectly on the figure. The style, length and material for the future product - everything will be selected according to personal preferences.

Taking measurements

Measurements must be taken with special care if you plan to make patterns for a specific figure. But you can also sew a jacket according to ready-made patterns, which greatly facilitates the entire workflow. Now there are many programs for building patterns.

The following measurements are needed to build a pattern for a men's jacket (some of them are optional, for example, half-waist circumference), since it all depends on the chosen style:

1. Growth.
2. Ssh - half-girth of the neck.
3. Cg - half-girth of the chest.
4. St - semi-circumference of the waist.
5. Sat - half-circumference of the hips.
6. Wh - chest width.
7. Dts - the length of the back to the waist.
8. Ws is the width of the back.
9. Dp - shoulder length.
10. Op - shoulder girth.
11. Dr - sleeve length.
12. Oz is the circumference of the wrist.

For tailoring according to the finished pattern, you need to take only six measurements, to accurately determine your size and compare them with the table data from the logs:

1. Growth measured from the crown to the feet, standing on a flat surface and without shoes.
2. Bust measured at the highest points of the breast.
3. Waist measure over the tape, which was previously tied at the waist.
4. Hip girth We measure at the most convex points of the buttocks.
5. The length of the sleeve measured on a slightly bent arm in the elbow zone from the shoulder through the elbow to the wrist.
6. Shoulder length - from the highest point of the shoulder to its articulation with the arm.

size table

The size	cm	44	46	48	50	52	54	56
Growth	cm	168	171	174	177	180	182	184
Og	cm	88	92	96	100	104	108	112
From	cm	78	82	86	90	94	98	104
About	cm	90	94	98	102	106	110	115
dr	cm	61	62	63	64	65	66	67
Osh	cm	37	38	39	40	41	42	43

The choice of style and decorative elements

The main styles of jackets and the most preferred types of fabric used in tailoring:

An important factor in choosing a fabric for a jacket is the level of thermal insulation, high wear resistance, and moisture resistance.

When choosing a heater for a jacket, you should know that they are divided into three types: synthetic, natural and mixed.

The first type is hypoallergenic, shows itself well in wear resistance and keeps its shape. However, it should be borne in mind that such characteristics are of good quality material.

Despite this, many prefer artificial materials natural, believing that it is safer and warmer. If we consider down and feathers, they will warm well, but this eco-friendly insulation can cause allergies, is an excellent breeding ground for bacteria and mites.

The lighter the fibers of the insulation, the more air between them, which means that it will be very warm.

Decorative and functional elements are selected based on the chosen style of the jacket. The main thing is that everything is appropriate.

Stage 2

Preparation of patterns for a pattern of a men's jacket

As soon as all the measurements are taken, the type of product and its style are determined, you can begin to prepare the patterns. They can be made on special scaled paper, tracing paper, cardboard or x-ray film.

It is not necessary to cost the pattern yourself or buy a ready-made one, because if you have an old jacket, the fit of which you like, you can make patterns from it.

There are two options: either rip it up, if you don’t mind, and circle everything on paper, or go ahead and use the method below.

The procedure for removing patterns from finished product:

1. It is necessary to iron the thing well, if the type of product and fabric allows it, and lay it out on a flat, even surface. Next, we determine the middle of the back and shelves and mark them with pins.
2. Then we turn the product inside out with the seams and fold it in half, focusing on the control marks in the form of pins. We put tracing paper on top and circle the details with a marker. Start copying with the largest details.
3. When creating patterns with sleeves, we fold them in half, first you need to translate the 1st half, then bend over, and circle the 2nd part.
4. When all lines are translated, they must be aligned using tailor's patterns, rulers, or any suitable improvised means. It is also necessary to measure all the details of the product and compare them with the resulting patterns.
5. It is very important to put control marks on the patterns you create so that the assembly process of the product is not difficult. Such signs are usually placed on the waistline, chest, hips, in the middle of the product, in the armhole, etc.
6. Don't forget the seam allowances!
7. Now you can cut out all the details.

Important! Immediately mark on paper from which side of the product you removed the pattern.

When using a finished pattern, it is also transferred to tracing paper or another more preferred material and cut out. The way the details of the pattern will be located is determined by the presence of a complex pattern. With such drawings, you will have to customize.

Location of patterns on the material and preparation for cutting

Important! The consumption of material is determined by its width.

Calculate the right amount of fabric for sewing a product, taking into account the style, length and decorative elements. For a shoulder product with a sleeve, take the length of the product in the final form plus the length of the sleeve with seam allowances.

Reference! If the product implies additional finishing, for example, patch pockets, various valves, briefcase pockets, non-standard collars, or fabric with a pattern, pile, checkered, stripes is used, then the fabric consumption increases by about 0.3-0.4 m.

There are several rules for preparing for cutting:

Important! Lining and insulation parts are built and cut in the same way as the main ones! If the insulation is planned to be voluminous, then the main parts are built a size larger.

ADVICE! When going to the store for fabric, you can take paper patterns of the product with you, so when choosing a fabric with a pattern, you can recalculate the fabric during its selection.

Stage 3

Cutting fabrics and preparing to assemble the product

After all the elements of the product are cut out, proceed to the preparatory work.

All stitching lines on each part are transferred to the other side. To do this, safety pins are placed along the contours and circled on the second part, while not forgetting to place control signs.

We must not forget about the middle lines so that your product does not warp. A line is laid along them, the stitch length of which can reach 2 cm.

Now you can move on to basting. If insulation is planned in the jacket, then immediately grind it with a lining. They sweep away all the details, focusing on the control marks, which must match on all the details.

Once all the main parts are connected, it is necessary to try on to make sure that the fit is good, to clarify the length of the bottom and sleeves. If everything is in order, then you can proceed to grinding - connecting parts with a permanent line.

Final product assembly

If there are darts, they must be sewn immediately.

If a the product has pockets overhead or slotted, then they need to be stitched to the product. We outline the location of the future pocket on one part and fold it face to face with the second to mark on it.

If the pockets are in the seams, then you must first overcast the edges of each part of the burlap and pin one part to the shelf, and the second to the back, combining the control marks, stitch to the edge and make bartacks.

Let's move on to the sleeves.. We combine all the parts of the sleeve and sew them on the machine. Then we take the lining and do the same with it as with the outer part of the jacket.

If a the jacket includes a hood, then the prepared parts are ground and basted to the jacket. Decide whether it will be removable or not.

The hood is non-removable going: its outer part is sewn with the main part of the jacket, the same is done in the lining.

If a hood with zipper, then one work occurs by analogy, but with the use of lightning. We sew one of its strips to the bottom of the hood, the second - to the neck of the jacket.

If desired, instead of a zipper, you can use buttons or buttons, as well as decorate the hood with fur. Again, 3 options: make the edge fixed or buttoned (zippers).

We proceed to the connection of all the details of the jacket. We got the main part, two sleeves and a hood. From the wrong side we attach the sleeves, connecting the outer part with the outer one, and by analogy we do everything with the lining.

If desired, cuffs can also be decorated with fur or knitted inserts.

It remains to fasten the hood, and the jacket is complete!

To set up printing of pattern No. 552 of A4 format, use "Test square No. 2"! The test square is located on the first sheet in the pattern file.

Pattern of a men's jacket-Alaska. Men's Alaska jacket with a straight silhouette, medium volume, hip-length. On the front, slanted upper pockets with leaflets and lower pockets with leaflets and flaps. Raglan sleeves, stitched knitted cuff at the bottom of the sleeve. The hood gathers on the wings, and is also pulled together at the back with a strap with a buckle. The fastener is central with a braid-zipper, decorated with external and internal windproof strips. The outer placket fastens with hidden buttons and hinged hinges and buttons. There is a zippered pocket on the left side of the inside.

Increases in freedom of fit incorporated in the pattern: Increase in chest girth - 32.0 cm, Increase in shoulder girth - 25.0 cm

The length of the product along the middle seam of the back in finished form, in cm:44 size: 81.9 - 84.9, 46 size: 82.1 - 88.1, 48 size: 82.3 - 88.3, ​​50 size: 82,5 – 88,5, 52 size: 82.7 - 88.7, 54 size: 82.9 - 88.9, 56 size: 83.1 - 89.1, 58 size: 83.3 - 89.3

Recommended sewing material: we recommend using thin raincoat fabrics such as "MONCLER", jacket fabrics, raincoat fabrics with a hydrophilic membrane for this model; new generation synthetic insulation with a protective layer on both sides, for example, ISOSOFT 34 200 g/m2. Lining fabrics - viscose, mixed lining fabrics. For lining the hood, you can use the top fabric, natural or artificial fur, fleece or any tight knitwear.

Material consumption at width 140cm: 44 size: 3.4 - 3.5 m, 46.48 size: 3.5 - 3.6 m., 50.52.54 size: 3.6 - 3.7 m, 56.58 size : 3.7 - 3.8 m

Pattern details are given with processing allowances.

The degree of complexity of tailoring - "Advanced level"

We want you to enjoy working with Grasser patterns and make the sewing process understandable, soa file with a very detailed description is attached to the pattern, in which all stages of work on the product are considered, with STEP PHOTOS SEWING TECHNOLOGIES! Also in the descriptiongiven detailed information about the necessary consumption of fabric, materials and accessories.

For sewing you will need the following equipment:

• Universal sewing machine;
• Iron with or without steam;
• Double foot;
• Single foot;
• Lavash for the WTO or a wooden iron;
• Ironing table or console;
• Hand needle for estimating work;
• Machine needles Microtex (Microtex) No. 80;
• Paper scissors;
• Scissors for cutting materials;
• Pliers or press to install buttons.

The pattern in your order will be in two print options:

1. For printing on A4. You need to print the pattern on a regular printer on A4 sheets, then glue the sheets, cut out the pattern and you can sew!

2. For printing on a wide-format plotter. Top pattern details58 sizes are located on 2 sheets measuring 60 * 226 cm.Top pattern details58 sizes are located on 2 sheets measuring 60 * 248 cm.

A photo of the Quiksilver jacket is presented for a visual demonstration of the model of pattern No. 552 from the GRASSER design bureau.

We were inspired to create this pattern by photos from the Internet. It was these photos that “inspired” us, because we do not pursue the goal of completely repeating what we saw: on the contrary, our goal is to create a unique product. The model of the product may differ from the photo from the original source, the exact image of the model is shown in the technical drawing.

Natalya 14.01.2020 04:00:40

Tell me, please, according to the OD 100 cm, 50 size is suitable. But, if you put Alpolux 150 insulation on the top details and 100 on the lining, is it necessary to take a pattern one size larger?

Administrator: Hello, yes, it is better to take a pattern one size larger.

Aigul 21.12.2019 02:12:48

Good afternoon! Please tell me which size would be better. OG - 106. FROM - 106. ABOUT - 103

Administrator: Hello, fit size 52

Kate La 17.12.2019 01:06:23

Please tell me: if the fur is placed on the inner bar - where is the pile directed? In the hood or outside?))

Administrator: Hello, we did outside.

05.12.2019 00:14:53

Hello. Help with the hood. Already gone robe lining, top with pockets. And the hood is just a stumbling block. The hood assembled the center, the rear side parts and the front side parts, and then I can’t understand where the outer strap of the hood, the drawstring should look like, small oblique pieces where. If only I could see a photo of the hood.

Administrator: Hello, we are preparing a new one for this model detailed description tailoring in a new format, with a photo.

In the meantime, a hint for you on the hood:

1. Place an eyelet on the drawstring of the hood. Fold the drawstring in half, face out.
2 Stitch (sew) a part of the inner part of the hood to the inner strap of the hood.
3. Stitch (sew) all parts of the hood lining together. When attaching (sewing) the inner strap of the hood to the lining of the hood, the drawstring is also sewn together.

4. Connect the lining of the hood and the hood along the outer cut.
5. Thread the cord into the drawstring, and then this cord must be brought out to the front side of the hood. You can try it on and look at the fitting where you want the eyelets on the hood to be.

6. After you have decided on the grommet on the hood, you need to install it. And then connect the stitching seams of the inner and outer slats of the hood to each other.

Julia 01.12.2019 05:30:26

Good evening. What size is better to take for a teenager with parameters 90-76-93 height 165?

Administrator: Hello, the smallest available: size 44 height 170-176

Maria 02.11.2019 17:57:58

Good afternoon!
Could you tell me about the parameters 115-123-111 size 58 will fit?

Administrator: Hello, yes, size 58 will fit the specified parameters.

Daria 10/21/2019 20:37:36

Hello, tell me, can I add collars, is it possible in this model? And if not, how to wear such a jacket, in winter it doesn’t blow your neck if you don’t have a scarf? I wanted to see it live, but I couldn't find a photo in your boasts.

Administrator: Hello, you can model the pattern at your discretion. But in this model, the neck is closed, see photos of sewn products under the main photo.

Tatiana 10/16/2019 00:45:12

Hello) tell me 200 is this insulation for the winter?

Administrator: Hello, yes it is winter version.

Daria 09/25/2019 17:09:48

Please tell me what size is better to take OG-110, OT-91, OB-104.5?

Administrator: Hello, size 54 will fit you

Victoria Poltoran 16.07.2019 12:02:26

Hello, for parameters 99-104-99, what size is better to take?

Administrator: Victoria, good afternoon!
Size 50 will fit with a possible adjustment at the waistline. Before sewing a product from the main fabric, be sure to sew off the layout!

Victoria Poltoran 03.11.2019 04:24:54

Good night. Tell me, 101-94-102 what size do you need ??? Bought 54, seems big, or is it supposed to be???

Administrator: Hello, no, the pattern must be chosen according to the circumference of the chest. Size 50 is suitable for circumference 101.

Check out our sewing instructions -

Elena 03/25/2019 02:55:43

On the parameters 125-110-115 it turns out 62 size is needed? The 58th largest is listed here. Is it possible to use it somehow with such measurements? Thanks

Administrator: Hello, yes, size 62 will fit the indicated parameters. This model is not available in size 62.

The increase in this model is significant, just for a winter model with insulation. If you take two sizes smaller, then the product may fit, but the fit will not be like winter jacket. You can sew a layout and see on the layout if you are satisfied with the fit of the product according to the pattern two sizes smaller.

Ulyana 05.03.2019 01:52:14

Hello. My husband's chest is 112 cm, but you write that a thick insulation is 200 g. And if I want to sew on a thin spring? .. maybe it makes sense to take the 54th size then? ..and one more request, can you measure the width of the back and front under the armhole for size 54? I will be very grateful to you. I do not want to buy the "wrong" patterns.

Administrator: Hello, yes, for the indicated volume and without insulation, you can take size 54, but be sure to sew a layout, it will help you check the volume and fit of the product.

Natalya 24.01.2019 23:28:19

Good afternoon! Please tell me, in size 56, what is the width of the back on the pattern?

Administrator: Hello, the width of the back detail without allowance is 35.2 cm

08.12.2018 22:11:07

Good evening! Please tell me, for the parameters - OG 106, OT 105, OB 106, what is the best pattern size to take 52 or 54?

Administrator: Hello, size 54 will fit you.

Lena 02.12.2018 13:43:24

Good morning. You can sew this pattern for a woman. I sewed 399 Alaska, it turned out very bulky on me. Here the sleeve is raglan, I think the top will not be so big.

Administrator: Hello, this is a male design, we do not recommend sewing women's products in a male design, as women's and male models have significant design differences, especially in such serious products. You can sew as you wish.

Gashina 20.11.2018 02:54:28

Good afternoon, tell me what size to choose for parameters og 112, from 103, about 115. Thank you

Administrator: Hello, size 56 will fit you

Love 09.11.2018 02:36:16

Hello!
For parameters og98, ot75, ob94 for Alpolux 200 insulation, which size is better to take. I usually take 48, but how will the insulation affect?

Buying a thing in the store, people face a number of problems. Either there is no suitable size, or the color of the buttons is not to your liking, or it does not fit well, or the sleeve is too wide. In general, choosing the ideal model is not always possible.

Each of us at least once thought about self-tailoring things, but often it is postponed until later. Only a few bring the matter to the end, starting to sew things on their own. The rest continue to wear purchased items that they do not quite like. But once you decide to experiment and sew an ideal model for yourself a skirt, shirt, dress, thing for a child, and then, having gained experience, you can move on to more complex models. For example, you can sew outerwear, then your jacket or coat will definitely be unique and inimitable. Let's try to sew a product on the pattern of a men's jacket. Your man will be pleasantly surprised to receive a new jacket of the right size and perfect fit as a gift.

Where to start?

The most difficult thing for a beginner seamstress is to find a good pattern. Not required to stock finished pattern men's jackets. You can take an old jacket, inspect where, where and what is sewn on, draw a model on paper that is planned for sewing. Then take a suitable sample of a men's jacket pattern and build a diagram yourself.

The pattern of a men's jacket is the basis of all work. The fate of the finished product depends on the quality of its execution. Therefore, you should take this stage of work very responsibly. So, we start building a pattern for a men's jacket by drawing the desired model on large sheets of paper, then cutting out pieces on unnecessary fabric and fitting them to the mannequin. Thus, having an ideal finished pattern, you can proceed directly to sewing.

Step #1. We prepare the necessary materials

For sewing, we need a sewing machine and all sewing accessories: threads, scissors, needles, a ruler, a pencil, a centimeter meter and other little things. It is also important to decide in advance what fabric the jacket will be made of, how to insulate it, decorate it.

For a warm autumn men's jacket you will need:

• faux leather fabric,
• raincoat fabric (for separate parts of the jacket)
• lining material
• insulation (synthetic winterizer)
• 1 long zipper
• 2 small zippers on pockets
• some fabric for decoration
• fur belt on the hood.

So, having prepared everything necessary materials and patterns of a men's jacket with a hood, let's get to work.

Step #2. Transferring the pattern to fabric

Using a piece of chalk or soap, we transfer the elements of the jacket from paper to the main fabric and insulation, adding a couple of centimeters along the edges to the seams. We get the same pattern of a men's jacket, but already on the fabric. When everything is drawn, carefully with sewing scissors we cut out along the contour of the jacket part from the main fabric and insulation. It is also necessary to cut out the details for the hood and 2 patch pockets.

Step #3. We sew pockets

To make the pockets the same and beautiful, it is advisable to draw a pattern for them too.

The sewing process itself begins with sewing on the insulation. For convenience, it is better to make a double layer, so the first one needs to be stitched with the top of the jacket, the second layer with the lining. Important point- if you are going to make the top of the jacket quilted, then you need to leave good allowances, about 7-10 centimeters along all seams, since the fabric is pulled together when stitching. You can prepare pockets. To do this, take a cut out pocket and attach a zipper to it. We repeat the same with the second pocket. You can attach a zipper directly to sewing machine, without weaving, as traces may remain on the raincoat fabric from weaving.

We sew stripes on the second part of the shelf, a little larger in size than our pocket will be. We fold the shelves with the front sides, mark the pocket and stitch. Cut off the excess insulation. Next, we apply a pocket zipper to the stitched rectangle and also sew at a low speed of the sewing machine. We cut out the pocket burlap itself from the lining and fleece and attach it to the zipper. We repeat the same with the second pocket.

Step number 4. Putting together a jacket

To collect upper part jackets, you need to make darts on the back, then sew the shoulder seams, outline the places for the sleeve.

Let's take the sleeves. We sew a heater to the wrong side of the sleeve, sew a lining on top of it and attach everything on a sewing machine. Similarly, we repeat with the second sleeve and briefly put it aside. Now, based on the pattern of the men's jacket, we sew the lining. This is done by analogy with sewing a jacket from the base material. We transfer the pattern from paper to fabric, cut out and attach the front parts to the back, sew the shoulder seams. When there is already a sewn lining and sewn parts from the base material, we do the same from the insulation material. Thus, we have, as it were, 3 unfinished jackets and fully finished sleeves.

Now it's time for the hood. To do this, we take it from paper to fabric, to the lining and insulation, we cut it all out and baste it.

Do not forget to cut off the excess insulation so that nothing sticks out under the seams. Now we decide whether we make the hood removable or not. If the hood on the jacket is not removable, then we attach the main fabric of the hood to the main fabric of the jacket, there will be a heater between them, and we sew the linings together. If the hood is removed, then we attach it to the jacket in the same sequence, but with the help of a zipper, namely: we attach one strip of lightning to the hood to its lower part, sew the second half into the jacket.

It turns out that we have a ready-made hood separately from the jacket, which, if necessary, we can fasten. Buttons can be used instead of a zipper for a detachable hood. For beauty, you can sew a fur edge on the edges of the hood. It can be made in one piece or with a zipper so that it can be removed if necessary. If the hood itself is solid, then it makes no sense to make a detachable edge.

Step #5 completion

Now you need to connect all the details of the jacket together. We have the jacket itself, a hood and 2 sleeves. Turn the jacket inside out and sew on the sleeves. We connect the lining with the lining, the main part with the main part. We fasten the hood - and the jacket is ready. If you wish, before attaching the sleeves, you can make cuffs from a dense fabric or knit so that the lining does not accidentally stick out from under the sleeve.

We conclude that it is not difficult to sew a jacket if there is a good pattern, because it is the basis for a men's jacket, as well as for tailoring for any product.