The traditional fastener on elegant dresses, including wedding dresses, is made on hinged loops, which are sewn very close to each other. This type of clasp can be made different ways... It is placed on the sleeves, front or back shelves, on the cut of the skirt, etc. For hinged loops, take a purchased braid, soutache. There is another option, you can sew hinged loops from a roll, which is made of the same fabric as the product.

This type involves placing the loops at some distance from each other. The number of loops corresponds to the number of buttons.

Identical loops are sewn very close together. Small buttons are used under them.

Double decorative clasp. The clasp is formed in the form of four loops. One of the loops protrudes beyond the shelf and it is on it, and the product is fastened. The remaining three loops are sewn to the product.

How to make hinged button loops from a roll

Soft, delicate fabrics such as crêpe de Chine, cambric and crêpegeorgette are best suited for hinge bars. The strips for the steering wheel can be cut along the shared thread, but the loops from the oblique inlines are softer and more accurate. The handlebar can be hollow or with a cord inserted inside if it is cut obliquely.

The handlebar is folded into a loop when it is sewn to the fabric. But for slippery fabrics, it is advisable to first form the loops on the paper template. Marking lines on the template allow you to position the loops at the same distance from each other. The loops together with the template are attached to the fabric, and the paper is then torn off.

Template markup

Make a template and mark the loops with no space between them. Pin the ends of the loops to the template on a 5 mm line and cut. Glue the ends with tape and baste on a typewriter.

Mark on the template the locations of the loops with the same distances between them. Cut the roll and pin the hinges to the paper. Glue the ends with tape and fix with a stitching on a typewriter.

1. Place the looped paper template over the garment. Pin it. Work the machine from the inside along the seam line. Remove tape and pins. Tear off the template.
2. Place the bar with the right sides together to the product. Using pins, pin them together from the wrong side. Now sew from the outside with the machine along the seam line.
3. Trim and guide the seam allowances in the plank, ironing them away from the product. Sew the seam on the right side. Fold the bar back to reveal the hinges.

There are nuances in the product that are invisible to the layman, according to which the master can quickly and accurately determine the class of tailoring. These include cuffs of sleeves, stitching, fit. But one of the most important points there are undoubtedly hinges, including a loop with an eyelet. And it is the hinges that the fashion houses pay special attention to. Despite the fact that it is possible to make a welt buttonhole with an eyelet on sewing equipment, a luxury studio such loops on expensive coats and jackets are made exclusively by hand. And this operation is trusted only by a master with extensive experience.

Let's master this necessary sewing operation and learn how to make exclusive slit buttonholes with an eye, because your products will only benefit from this!

Sewing School of Anastasia Korfiati
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Slit eyelet loop - master class

There are many different techniques performing such loops, each master has his own chips and secrets. We will consider the most, in our opinion, beautiful option loops - with a raised chain stitch.

To perform this sewing operation, we need:

1. Madeira Aerofil Thread # 35. Any other strong thread # 30 or 35 can also be used, special strong silk threads are also used. The threads are selected to match the fabric of the product or contrasting, depending on the designer's idea. For clarity, we use yellow contrasting threads.
2. A piece of wax. Waxed thread is less "shaggy", less tangled, so the thread for making loops is pre-processed with a piece of wax.
3. Metal ruler for marking hinges.
4. Rectangular buttonhole ruler.
5. Punch.
6. Awl.
7. Snacks.
8. Hinge ripper. In case of an error, the ripper will come in handy.

Rice. 1. Tool for making a buttonhole with an eye

Step 2 cm from the edge of the product and draw the edge line along which the loops will be sewn. Set aside from the line at a right angle the width of the loop in the finished form (in our case, it is 2.5 cm). Place the loops at the same distance from each other. For a coat it is 11-12 cm, for jackets and men's jackets 8-9 cm.

Rice. 2. Marking the edge of the loops

Rice. 3. Marking the loops

Place fixing snares along the side. Around each loop, also place anchor nets so that they do not overlap with the loop markings. Measure a thread about 60 cm long, thread by pressing the thread tightly against the piece of wax and pulling it over the wax.

Rice. 4. Fixing snares around the hinge

Rice. 5. Waxing thread

An interlining thread is used to raise the hinge. To prepare it, fold the waxed thread in half and start twisting from both sides in opposite directions (fig. 6). When the threads are tightly twisted, bend in half again - the threads themselves will twist together. We got an interposition thread, consisting of 4 threads twisted together (Fig. 7).

Place the punch on the edge of the buttonhole closest to the hem, and on the wrong side, place a piece of fabric folded several times. Punch the "eye" of the future loop (Fig. 8). Using snacks or straight scissors, cut the loop along the markings (fig. 9).

Rice. 8. Punching a peephole with a punch

Rice. 9. Cutting the buttonhole

Secure the end of the prepared cushion thread with a pin and lay along the loop (fig. 10). Wax the thread to sew the buttonhole, thread it into the needle, make a knot, and back side stick the product in at a distance of 2 cm from the loop edge (fig. 11) (after the work is done, the thread is cut and removed).

Rice. 10. Laying the interfacing

Rice. 11. Getting started from the back of the product

Bring the needle out to the outside at the edge of the buttonhole, 2 mm from the cut. Place the needle around the interfacing thread and stick the needle in from the reverse side, bringing it to the outside close to the first piercing (fig. 13). Try to make punctures at the same distance from the incision - about 2 mm.

To get a nice stitch at the top of the buttonhole, the thread must be twisted (see fig. 15). To do this, insert the needle into the loop under the bobbin thread and pull it up.

Pull the thread up so that the stitch is on top. Continue to sew stitches as shown in fig. 13-16.

Rice. 16. The thread is pulled up.

With a modern machine, buttonholes can be made easily, quickly and neatly, wherever they are - on pillows, blouses or coats. This requires sharp needles, suitable thread and stabilizing material. Sewing buttonholes on the machine is a simple operation with fairly reliable results.

Fabric / threads. Loops can be made on any fabric - from chiffon to thin elastic. The main thing is to strengthen this area in order to prevent the fabric from tearing. Threads and fabrics must match in color and quality. Loops on silk are made with silk threads, if you are working with cotton fabric, thread the machine with cotton threads, etc.

Stabilizing material. With the advent of stabilizing materials, buttonholes can be made even on very thin fabrics such as chiffon. Spacers are used between the facing and the main fabric. They help to keep the fabric in balance when buttonholes are sewn and prevent the fabric from wrinkling when attached to a button.

Needle. Make sure your needle is sharp as it will pierce through several layers of fabric.

HOW TO MAKE BUTTON HINGES?

1. When processing buttonholes that are located on thin fabrics, a stabilizing material must be placed under the fabric.

2. If your pattern does not indicate the size of the buttonhole, set it as follows: make a loop from the tape around the button that you want to sew and add 3 mm to this size.

3. Mark the buttonholes 2 cm from the fold line of the fabric on the fastener. Then place rectangular strips of stabilizing material in place of the intended loops, on the wrong side of the fabric and upholstery. If it is an adhesive pad, iron it with a hot iron and then let it cool. The distance between the buttonholes depends on the type of fabric and the location of the buttonholes. It can be horizontal or vertical. For very light fabrics, the distance between the loops should not exceed 6-8 cm. If the loops are made on pillows, this distance can be up to 13 cm.

4. Grasp the buttonhole foot. Select a stitch type and adjust its width.

5. Start sewing at the front cross bar of the buttonhole. Position the fabric under the presser foot so that the mark on the front (cross) tab of the buttonhole is directly under the center of the presser foot.

6. To secure the seam, turn the fabric counterclockwise and sew several straight stitches before cutting off the end of the thread.

7. The loops are cut with a seam ripping knife. To do this, secure both ends of the loop with pins so as not to damage the stitches.

If you don't have one, use small, sharp scissors. Cut the fabric in the middle of the buttonhole. Do not accidentally cut the stitches.

Advice. When sewing buttonholes on very fine fabrics, use Soluble Stabilizer. This will prevent your fabric from wrinkling or even tearing.

Advice. When making buttonholes on sheer fabric, use a spacer and Soluble Stabilizer under each button only.

Video from Fatima Kaznacheevskaya: How to overcast buttonholes on a sewing machine.

HOW TO SEW ON THE BUTTON CORRECTLY?

Buttons. There are two types of buttons - with holes and with legs. Buttons with holes work well for blouses made of delicate fabrics, for cotton shirts. Buttons on the legs are more suitable for thick fabrics, so they are sewn onto outerwear.

Location.

1. Use a pin to pinch the layers of fabric where you planned to sew on the buttons.

2. For vertical loops, drive a pin 3mm from the top through the bottom layer. For horizontal hinges insert a pin 3 mm from the notch on the outside.

Sewing on.

1. Insert into the needle double thread and sew a few reverse stitches where you want to sew on the button.

2. Place the match on the button and sew a few stitches by guiding the needle from one hole to the other and threading over the top of the match.

3. Remove the match, pull the button away from the fabric, circle the thread several times around the bundle of threads that formed after removing the match.

4. Return the needle to the wrong side and secure. Pull the knot made at the very beginning and cut it off.

Advice. Be sure to practice sewing on a patch of the same fabric as the garment.

Buttons on the legs.

1. Thread the needle with double thread and sew several reverse stitches where you want to sew on the button.

2. Sew a few stitches by passing the needle and thread through the hole in the button leg to where you are sewing the button. Secure the thread in the same way as you did for the two-hole button. If your sewing pattern does not have markings for the buttons on the fastener of the garment, do it yourself using a ruler and a marker pencil.

How to sew on a button using a sewing machine?

In the distant Soviet and perestroika times, clothes and the most elementary household items were obtained with great difficulty. What was sold in stores and markets was far from ideal, and many housewives reworked the purchased items, customizing them to their liking and preferences.

The modernization concerned not only clothes, but also curtains, tulles, towels. They were often sold per meter, buyers had to independently handle the cuts, come up with their placement on cornices and hooks. Then every woman knew how to make a loop of thread on a curtain or kitchen towel, knitted cardigan or light silk dress, which cannot be said about contemporaries.

Thread disgrace

The first image that appears mentally before the eyes when the phrase "thread loop" is a pendant on which plain curtains are attached in a grandmother's country house or in the country. Indeed, when the curtain is hung up quickly and not so much for the purpose of decoration, but as protection from flies and prying prying eyes, the hostess will not delve into how to make a loop of thread more beautiful and neat for a long time. Several strands folded together are sewn to the edge of the curtain and the job is done.

As a result, such loops often have unequal lengths, are not located at an equal distance from each other, and on closer examination do not look very biased. In this article, readers will be able to look at visual photos and read small tricks on how to make a loop of thread for curtains, clothes, kitchen and bath towels.

Correct loop of thread

If you read the previous section carefully, you can immediately understand typical mistakes, which are allowed by seamstresses when creating buttonholes. Regardless of the purpose for which they are made, you must follow a few simple rules:

• compliance with the load;
• symmetry;
• equidistance;
• aesthetics.

Based on the initial assignment, it is necessary to select the version of the loop, the thread from which it will weave, and the method of fastening it. After all, it is one thing to make a small hold for a light towel fabric, and it is quite another thing to fix a heavy curtain to the cornice. In the same way, there will be a difference in how to make a buttonhole for clothes from thread: for a silk blouse with a beaded button, you need to create a light, airy hook from the finest satin threads, and for jersey it will be more expedient to knit a loop of yarn.

Thinking, selecting, doing!

So, before embarking on painstaking work that requires a lot of patience and endurance (the work is monotonous and monotonous), you should choose the right thread for the loop. Several criteria need to be assessed. First, it is important to analyze the color of the thread, then its composition and thickness.

For tulle curtains, it is best to use regular # 40 polyester thread. Its advantages are that it is durable and does not fade over time, which is important - having done the work once, you will not have to think again and again about how to make a loop from a thread, because it is especially difficult to do this on already finished product.

Loops for towels must also be made of strong and thick threads, because terry cloth, having absorbed moisture, becomes heavier. But simple kitchen towels can cling to hooks and the thinnest loops.

Weaving secrets

There are several methods for creating loops. The work can be done with a simple sewing needle or crochet hook. These two methods are fundamentally different from each other, although in the end both look just fine.

The loops made with a needle look incredibly neat, and it is not always possible to say that it is handmade... First, you need to choose a place for the loop and fasten the thread at some distance from the edge (1-1.5 mm). The next step will be a set of arcs, their length depends on what the loop will need to be hooked on, and the number depends on the desire and type of product. A standard curtain loop is 3-5 threads. The main thread should not be laid in one direction, but the direction of the needle should be changed, first from left to right, then back, each time pulling up a new arc and adjusting the length of the turn.

To make the buttonhole look neat and as reliable as possible, it should be overcast. To do this, use a tatting seam (a loop seam, but with alternating knots - first the needle enters the loop of the overlock knot from the front, then from the back), a gedebo seam and a double loop.

The overcasting ends with a puncture of the fabric with a needle and securing the thread at a short distance from the loop. So its edges seem to be smoothed and strengthened. These methods are best for thin materials, and if you are faced with the question of how to make a buttonhole from a button thread, an air fastener made with a needle is the most correct solution.

How to pick up the curtain?

There are several ways of attaching curtains, they depend on what kind of cornice, and on the style of the panel. If it is necessary to attach it with small loops of threads, then, as mentioned above, it is best to use a smooth and durable yarn, matched to the curtains.

It is easiest to crochet stitches. This can be an elementary braid made of air loops, or it can be a more laborious option - overlapping arcs from threads or a column. Before making a loop on the curtain from thread, you need to carefully fasten it at the edge of the fabric. Loops can be done with a needle, then it is better to use a tatting seam, as a result they will turn out to be light and delicate.

We hang a towel

Towel loops are the easiest and fastest to make. First of all, because only one piece is needed for a product. However, on the other hand, if the weight of the curtain is evenly distributed over many hooks, then the towel is held on one, and in order for it to withstand the burden placed on it, it must be done properly.

So how to make a loop of thread on a towel? The end of the thread must be properly secured, following the advice described above (stick a needle at a short distance from the edge) and forming a strong loop of several arcs and overcasting, complete the work, slightly stepping back from the edge of the arc. An important nuance it is in the case of towels that the length of the loops will be. For curtains, it is selected depending on the eaves and the depth of the hooks. In the case of clothes, the loop is made slightly larger than the diameter of the button, but for towels it is better to lengthen it, for the convenience of hanging and removing from the hook.

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How to make thread loops? Kinds. Step-by-step manufacturing technology. Photo

Hello again!

Thread loops are used as a partner for crochet or button fastening.

But before performing a thread loop, you need to decide on its future location on the product. And remember that fasteners with thread loops can only be used in those places on finished products where they will not be subjected to a very heavy load. They simply cannot withstand the significant pressure on their "shoulders", they will burst.

The thread loop is never put on display. It is always placed somewhere inside, away from prying eyes. To make it as less noticeable as possible on the product, it is made with threads in the color of the main material.

Having decided on its future location on the product, you still need to decide for yourself whether this loop will "work in tandem" with a hook or with a button. Because a flat-lying loop will be enough for a hook, but under a button, the thread loop should rise somewhat above the surface of the material. The volume of space between the buttonhole and the surface of the material should match the size of the button and be even slightly larger. The button should pass freely through the buttonhole.

So, first we sew a hook or a button and we orient ourselves by them, where the loop will be, what kind it will be and what size it will be. It would be best to make marks on the fabric, mark the edges of the future buttonhole.

According to the method of execution, there are two types of thread loops - chain and overcast with overcast buttonhole stitches.

Chain loop or air chain.

In the place where the beginning of the thread loop will be, we make a small stitch (without piercing the front side of the product).

We leave a small tip of the thread (while it is in "free flight").

With a couple of stitches, we fasten the thread (one end of the loop) in this place. We lay the stitches one on top of the other.

We make another stitch, but this time in order to form a loop from it.

The fingers of the left hand, thumb and forefinger, are threaded into the formed loop. The loop turns out, as it were, thrown over the fingers.

With your right hand we pull the thread that came out of the puncture on the fabric (that edge of the thread that goes from the needle).

Now, with the middle finger of the left hand, hook (pry) the thread stretched with the right hand and pull it to the loop, and then inside the loop.

When we start to pull the thread through the formed loop, a new loop is automatically formed from it. Pulling this new loop from the previous one, at the same time we discard the previous one from the fingers.

Pulling the new loop more and more, we tighten the old one and thus the formation of chain links begins.

You need to repeat everything over and over again, and the result is a chain - a thread loop.

In the pictures, to make it clearer and better seen, the whole process is done with a thread in one layer. In fact, it is better to make a thread loop from not very thin two-fold thread. It will look better and will hold on to the finished product stronger.

This picture shows a thread chain made of thread already in two folds.

When the thread chain "grew" to the right size, it needs to be completed (fixed from blooming). To do this, thread a needle and thread into the last extended loop and tighten.

With a few stitches, attach the finished thread loop to the surface of the product.

The ends of the thread (at the beginning of the loop and at the end) with a needle must be passed through the inner layers of the product somewhere to the side. And having brought the needle and thread out, carefully cut it off at the very surface of the material.

A thread loop with buttonhole stitches.

The next type of a thread loop, a loop overwhelmed with buttonhole stitches, differs from a chain loop also in that the length of the previous one is a chain loop, which can be controlled during operation. But with the length of the loop, overcast with buttonhole stitches, you need to determine even before starting its execution.

Make a small stitch at the beginning of the buttonhole. We leave a small end of the thread.

We make the next stitch at the end of the loop.

You can make several such stitches connecting the beginning and end of the loop - from 2 to 4. You can make stitches in different ways. Making punctures in the material in the form of an elongated letter O or an elongated letter X. And this will be correct, and so. Because further, they will still be entwined with looped overcasting stitches.

This is a one-thread loop stitch.

Here in two lines.

And buttonhole stitches are made like this. A loop is formed from the thread that came out of the material. A needle and thread is threaded through this loop and tightened around the long stitches that were used to wrap around the loop.

After completing a thread loop, entwined with looped overcasting stitches, it is necessary that the ends of the threads are fixed in the inner layers of the material.

I wish you, dear sewing lovers, that all the thread loops made by you will serve you for a long time and never let you down! Best regards, Milla Sidelnikova!

www.milla-sidelnikova.com

A neatly made thicker loop with an eyelet looks very professional on the product. There is nothing complicated in such processing, the main thing is to choose the right thread and cord. If desired, you can make other types of buttonholes, for example, a buttonhole rounded on one side.

1. In the desired location, mark the buttonhole in the shape of a keyhole. Sew around the markings at one stitch length. Cut through the loop and cut out a circle at the end. (The rounded part of the buttonhole can be pierced with an awl.)
2. Run a piece of thin cord around the buttonhole, or you can use double folded thread to sew buttonholes. With overlock stitches, sew the cord around the buttonhole inside the seam line. Stick a pin on the straight end of the loop and tie the ends of the cord over it with a single knot.
3. Starting at the straight end, overcast one side of the buttonhole, closing the access seam. Make the stitches close to each other and after each stitch, tighten the thread so that they lie flat and without gaps, completely hiding the incision.
4. When sewing the rounded part, turn the fabric as you work so that the stitches lie flat. The knots should lie as close as possible one to one and close the end of the loop. Unfold and continue to sew the other side of the buttonhole to the end.
5. Finish the last stitch by passing the needle through the knot in the first stitch, pulling out the needle at the bottom left corner of the straight edge of the buttonhole. At the end, sew 3 or 4 long cross stitches to define the straight end of the buttonhole.
6. Pull up on the ends of the cord or double-folded thread to keep the loop tight and smooth. Tie the ends of the cord at the long stitches with a double knot and cut. Hide the knot and cord ends under the long stitches. Finish by overcasting with long stitches while gripping the fabric.

The result is a professional eyelet buttonhole.

This post is posted in the Sewing in detail category with the tag Button.

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Loops are the main element of button fastening, their size and location depends on the size of the buttons and the style. The length of all loops depends on the diameter of the buttons, except for decorative loops, usually it is equal to the diameter of the button plus 0.3 cm of the allowance for the thickness of the button.

The allowance is made for free passage of the button in the loop. When laying out patterns on fabric and cutting, the loops are marked, for this, the distance of the loop from the bead is set according to the selected style, then the loops are marked on the front side of the cut of the product. Loops can have a sided direction, a cross direction, and an oblique direction. The loops are located at least 2 cm from the edge. If the product is double-breasted, then the distance to the loop from the edge of the bead should be equal to the diameter of the button.

Stitched or hinged loops. One of the types of loops is a line loop or decorative - hinged loops. Such loops are sewn from fabric of any quality, thin, dense, leather and drape. Such loops are made on fur coats and other things made of fur and leather. These are not just buttonholes, but also a decorative detail on skirts and sports jackets. In addition, the stitching loops are very strong and they are sewn on women's underwear, bras big size with a wide belt.

Usually, several such loops are needed per product, therefore, they take a strip of fabric along a shared thread of the required width, focusing on the width of the loops and the diameter of the buttons. For example, take a strip 3-4 cm wide, fold it in half lengthwise with the front side inward, fold the cut edges inward on both sides by 0.5 cm. Sew at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge. Unscrew the strip, straighten the seam and steam. Cut the strip into the required number of loops.

Fold the loop section in half and give it the shape of a loop with a triangular top. Across each buttonhole, sew a stitch by hand or on the machine, this will fix its shape. Attach the ends of the hinged loops to the right shelf along the markings from the inside out. Baste and apply a strip of fabric with the right side inward, so that the ends of the loop are not visible, stitch on 0.5 cm from the edge and bend the trim facing towards the shelf or other part on the front side. Straighten the seam and sew with one or two stitches.

Loops from thread or chain loops. These loops are made from small button threads or crochet loops. Use such thread loops different color for fastening cuffs, closed collars, on children's dresses.

You can make a loop of threads as follows: Fasten the thread on one side of the intended loop and pass it several times inside the fold of the fabric, at a distance equal to the diameter of the button. Outside visible threads are swept over with a buttonhole seam, or wrapped with silk or simple threads to match the product, reaching the edge of the loop, the thread is fixed on the wrong side.

Overcast buttonholes or welt buttonholes. The most common type of buttonhole for clothing. They are used for men's, women's and children's clothing, underwear, coats and shirts. Their advantage is that they can be processed on a sewing machine, if it is provided for by its technical capabilities. If sewing machine no, the buttonholes can be overcast by hand. It is necessary to outline the loop line, then sew a needle forward seam on both sides of the outlined loop line 3mm from the basting.

After that, pin the line on a needle and put it on a pencil, cut with a razor along the line of the loop, so these loops are slit and overcast. After that, overcast the buttonhole from right to left, making a bartack at the starting edge. After overcasting one edge, make a bartack and overcast the second edge of the buttonhole.

Buttonhole for a large leg button. This is also an overlock buttonhole, but it needs to be done a little differently. So that the button lingers in it and does not break the loop. For it, a cut is made along the line of the loop with an extension in the form of a wedge. Sew to the edge after stepping back from the basting line, then secure the notch with stitches (1).

Start overcasting the loop from the end of the loop with buttonhole stitches, for this, stick the needle in from the wrong side, pull the thread so that the loop remains. From the seamy side, insert the needle into the loop and pulling the thread, adjust the knot to the very edge of the loop slot (2). Sew the hole on the edge of the loop with the same stitches, pull the knots up. Continue overcasting on the second side of the buttonhole (3). At the very end of the loop, lay the thread to the width of the loop, this will be a bartack. Bartack the buttonhole with twine or buttonhole stitches. Secure the end of the thread to the wrong side.

Slit loops (periodically come in handy when I sew clothes for dolls) is a big headache, because they are needed small (on doll clothes) and very strong (because children are not always neat). Usually I did it by car, and then I found another wonderful material from Frosya Burlakova- how to make slit loops by hand.

Manual slit loops are a delicate matter, almost jewelry work ... Yes, no, nothing particularly complicated, but everything should be very thoughtful, consistently and neatly done, the missed nuance will certainly affect the result. Honestly, no one taught me this. Itself has slowly learned :). You will learn too. Go ahead, they are very beautiful!

Here dress loops, bw. Do not clutter up the essence, maybe. for coats, a thick thread is also needed.

This is how much you need to fasten one button later - in the photo on the right.

We act consistently. All work is done on the face. Fabric - cotton cambric.

The distance between the loops - from the pattern or according to the calculation.

And the width of the loop is best marked with paper strip.

Then it will turn out the same for all loops. A stripe with a width of button diameter + 2 mm per button thickness.

I do it with a pencil, but in kind with a disappearing felt-tip pen.

2. Pulling out the thread.

The buttonhole must be cut exactly along the thread. IMHO, it is very unpleasant for my eyes when the loop slides off the weft or warp by at least one thread along the inner or outer edge. This is often done on machine hinges.

If you have an absolutely accurate eye gauge and tool, then you can cut between two threads. It is also possible if the threads of the fabric are thick or sparse. If not, then I cut and pull out 1 thread along the width of the loop. This is the site of the future cut.

3. Bonding layers.

At least there are 2 layers of fabric in the buttonhole, there may also be a spacer. If it is not there, then it is better to add it in place in the form of a rectangular piece of about 3 by 1 cm.

The layers of fabric for the buttonhole need to be stitched together for work. The point is that they should not move when working.

The classic way of stitching is small oblique stitches around the perimeter of the loop, 5 mm away from the future cut. Draw such a rectangle around with stitches. I am not showing this.

The method of fastening with the help of a thin double-sided glue is also suitable. So I glued a narrow strip of double-sided glue at the place of the future loop. Top and bottom are bonded.

4. Piercing the peephole.

I don't have a punch or special scissors.

For a small eyelet in dress loops, an awl or knitting needle is quite suitable.

First, I mark the location of the eye with a needle somewhere 1-1.5 mm from the edge of the loop.

Then I expand the hole, rotating the awl in it. Eye diameter - mm 2.

In this case, the threads are only compacted around the hole of the eye.

5. Seam stitching around the buttonhole.

It is necessary that the edge of the loop does not stretch (for horizontal loops, it is weft). I take a thin silk thread. It is possible and not very thin, it is to taste and fabric. It is possible and not very silk. But - a long one. It is better to make the entire loop from and to with one thread, fasten the extra ones to nothing.

I have pulled out 1 thread of fabric.

I retreat 1 more thread.

And between the receded and the next thread, I circle the perimeter with small stitches forward-needle. You can type several on the needle. You need to start from the far side of the loop, where the bartack will be.

Then I circle it a second time. The total is a solid stroke. I tighten the thread quite tightly, not weakly. For a special evenness of the stitching, you can not chase

If you wish, you can make a rounded outline around the future eye, but, in general, this is not important.

The loop, of course, needs to be cut.

We put the scissors into the peephole and carefully cut along the pulled out thread.

7. Overcast on straight side.

It should also start from the far side of the loop, where the stroke ended. It goes from left to right, so we wrap the bottom side first (for women's clothing). It is more convenient to keep the overcast from top to bottom, holding the loop vertically.

For overcasting you need SEAM # 6 - DOUBLE HINGE. I talked about him in Temka about air loops... All the beauty of the result is in countability. Each subsequent puncture is made through the same number of threads. I did it through 2 threads - for this fabric it is about 0.7 mm. The density of the fabric is 25 threads per cm on the warp and 14 threads per cm on the weft.

The previously laid line should not be located along the edge of the cut, but close to the overstitching punctures - this is more beautiful. (Therefore, if a wider overcast is planned, then the stitch can be laid 1 thread of fabric further from the cut).

I like the narrow hem and the non-continuous hem. This makes the transition from fabric to buttonhole more natural.

Here I am making the piercing, leaving 2 weft threads and 1 padded stitch under the overcast.

Very important.

When tightening the loop, I pull the thread slightly back.

It is then that the edge of the loop turns out to be tightened, clear. If you pull straight up or slightly forward, the edge relaxes. The tightening is pretty strong.

8. Facing the eyelet.

We wrap the eye in a circle, keeping approximately the same distance between the punctures.

Along the peephole itself, the thread will be compacted and lie down with a dense scar.

9. Loop closure.

The second side of the buttonhole is overlaid like the first, and here I come to the beginning.

This is where the bartack is done.

But first I close the loop, those. I pass with a buttonhole stitch to the first side.

Three ways. I must say right away that I like the third one. Therefore, the first one is without pictures.

1) Grip the fabric with several buttonhole stitches perpendicular to both sides.

2) Sew the cross stitch forward of the needle several times in place (this can be seen in the first picture, you can leave it that way).

3) Overcast the tiny arc obtained in step 2) with a double loop. Make such a tiny transverse air loop.

With sewing truncated! If you're new, then less than a year has passed :). If the first buttonhole took you less than an hour, then you are an exceptionally capable student :). But even with a lot of experience, this is not a quick business. 15 minutes is very good, 10 minutes is great.

Batch the incision with oblique stitches and press it on. It's you yourself, dear girls :) .... If you know how to be neat, you can do it without sweeping - it is more relevant on thick fabrics ... Here she is, this beauty!

No, well, really, pretty, well, tell me? Even very much, my dears! ... In nature it is even better, I tell the truth.