To set up printing of pattern No. 552 in A4 format, use “Test square No. 2!” The test square is located on the first sheet in the pattern file.

Pattern men's jackets-Alaska. Men's Alaskan jacket with a straight silhouette, medium volume, hip length. On the front there are slanted upper pockets with leaflets and lower ones with leaflets and flaps. The sleeves are raglan cut, with a stitched knitted cuff at the bottom of the sleeve. The hood is gathered with a drawstring and is also fastened at the back with a strap and buckle. The central fastener has a zipper and is decorated with external and internal windproof strips. The outer placket is fastened with hidden buttons and hinged hinges and buttons. Inside on the left lining there is a framed pocket with a zipper.

Increases in freedom of fit included in the pattern: Increase in chest circumference – 32.0 cm, Increase in shoulder circumference – 25.0 cm

Finished product length along the middle back seam, in cm:44 size: 81.9 – 84.9, 46 size: 82.1 – 88.1, 48 size: 82.3 – 88.3, ​​50 size: 82,5 – 88,5, 52 size: 82.7 – 88.7, 54 size: 82.9 – 88.9, 56 size: 83.1 – 89.1, 58 size: 83.3 – 89.3

Recommended sewing material: for this model we recommend using thin raincoat fabrics like “MONCLER”, jacket fabrics, raincoat fabrics with a hydrophilic membrane; new generation synthetic insulation with a protective layer on both sides, for example, ISOSOFT 34,200 g/m2. Lining fabrics – viscose, mixed lining fabrics. For lining the hood, you can use top fabric, natural or artificial fur, fleece or any thick knitwear.

Material consumption at width 140cm: 44 size: 3.4 – 3.5 m, 46.48 size: 3.5 – 3.6 m, 50.52.54 size: 3.6 – 3.7 m, 56.58 size : 3.7 – 3.8 m

Pattern details are given with allowances for processing.

Sewing difficulty level - "Advanced level"

We want you to enjoy working with Grasser patterns and to make the sewing process clear, soThe pattern is accompanied by a file with a very detailed description, which covers all stages of work on the product, with step by step PHOTOS SEWING TECHNOLOGY! Also in the descriptiongiven detailed information about the required consumption of fabric, materials and accessories.

For sewing you will need the following equipment:

• Universal sewing machine;
• Iron with or without steam;
• Double foot;
• Single foot;
• Lavash for WTO or wooden iron;
• Ironing table or console;
• Hand needle for estimating work;
• Machine needles Microtex (microtex) No. 80;
• Paper scissors;
• Scissors for cutting materials;
• Pliers or press for installing buttons.

The pattern in your order will be available in two printing options:

1. For printing on A4. You need to print the pattern on a regular printer on A4 sheets, then glue the sheets together, cut out the pattern and you can sew!

2. For printing on a large format plotter. Top pattern details58 sizes are located on 2 sheets measuring 60*226 cm.Top pattern details58 sizes are located on 2 sheets measuring 60*248 cm.

A photo of a Quiksilver jacket is presented for a visual demonstration of pattern model No. 552 from the GRASSER design bureau.

We were inspired to create this pattern by photos from the Internet. These photos “inspired” us, because we do not pursue the goal of completely repeating what we saw: on the contrary, our goal is to create a unique product. The product model may differ from the photo from the original source; the exact image of the model is shown in the technical drawing.

Natalya 01/14/2020 04:00:40

Please tell me if size 50 is suitable for OG 100cm. But, if you put Alpolux 150 insulation on the top parts and 100 on the lining, do you need to take a pattern one size larger?

Administrator: Hello, yes, it is better to take the pattern one size larger.

Aigul 12/21/2019 02:12:48

Good afternoon Please tell me which size would be better. OG - 106. OT - 106. OB - 103

Administrator: Hello, size 52 will fit

KateLa 12/17/2019 01:06:23

Please tell me: if the fur is placed on the inner strip, where is the pile directed? In the hood or out?))

Administrator: Hello, we did it outside.

05.12.2019 00:14:53

Hello. Help me figure out the hood. The robe is already lined, the top with pockets. And the hood is just a stumbling block. The hood was assembled in the center, the rear side parts and the front side parts, and then I can’t figure out where the outer strap of the hood goes, the drawstring is what it should look like, the small oblique pieces go where. If only I could see a photo of the hood.

Administrator: Hello, we are preparing something new for this model. detailed description tailoring in a new format, with photos.

In the meantime, a hint for you on the hood:

1. Place a grommet on the drawstring of the hood. Fold the drawstring in half, face out.
2 Sew (sew) part of the inside of the hood to the inner strip of the hood.
3. Stitch (sew) together all parts of the hood lining. When stitching (sewing) the inner hood strip to the hood lining, also sew the drawstring together.

4. Connect the hood lining and the hood along the outer edge.
5. Thread a cord into the drawstring, and then this cord must be brought out to the front side of the hood. You can try it on and see at the fitting where you want the eyelets on the hood to be.

6. After you have decided on the eyelet on the hood, it needs to be installed. And then connect the stitching seams of the inner and outer hood strips together.

Julia 12/01/2019 05:30:26

Good evening. What size is better for a teenager with parameters 90-76-93 height 165?

Administrator: Hello, the smallest available: size 44 height 170-176

Maria 02.11.2019 17:57:58

Good afternoon
Can you tell me the parameters 115-123-111, size 58 will fit?

Administrator: Hello, yes, size 58 will fit the specified parameters.

Daria 10.21.2019 20:37:36

Hello, can you tell me how to add collars, is it possible in this model? And if not, how can you wear such a jacket, it won’t blow your neck in winter if you don’t have a scarf? I wanted to see it live, but I couldn’t find a photo in your boasts.

Administrator: Hello, You can model the pattern at your discretion. But in this model the neck is closed, look at the photo of the sewn products under the main photo.

Tatyana 10/16/2019 00:45:12

Hello) could you tell me if 200 insulation is for the winter?

Administrator: Hello, yes, this is a winter option.

Daria 09.25.2019 17:09:48

Please tell me what is the best size to take OG-110, OT-91, OB-104.5?

Administrator: Hello, size 54 will suit you

Victoria Poltoran 16.07.2019 12:02:26

Hello, what size is best for parameters 99-104-99?

Administrator: Victoria, good afternoon!
Fits size 50 with possible adjustment to the waistline. Before sewing a product from the main fabric, be sure to sew the layout!

Victoria Poltoran 03.11.2019 04:24:54

Good night. Tell me, 101-94-102 what size is needed??? You bought 54, it seems big, or is it supposed to be???

Administrator: Hello, no, you need to choose the pattern according to your chest circumference. Size 50 fits girth 101.

Check out our sewing instructions -

Elena 03/25/2019 02:55:43

For parameters 125-110-115, do you need size 62? The 58th largest is listed here. Is it possible to somehow use it for such measurements? Thank you

Administrator: Hello, yes, size 62 will fit the specified parameters. This model is not available in size 62.

The increases in this model are significant, just for a winter model with insulation. If you take two sizes smaller, the product may fit, but the fit will not be the same winter jacket. You can sew a layout and see on the layout whether the fit of the product according to the pattern is two sizes smaller.

Ulyana 03/05/2019 01:52:14

Hello. My husband’s chest is 112cm, but you write that the thick insulation is 200g. And if I want to sew a thin one for spring?..maybe it makes sense to take size 54 then? ..and one more thing, can you measure the width of the back and front under the armhole for size 54? I will be very grateful to you. I don’t want to buy the “wrong” patterns.

Administrator: Hello, yes, for the specified volume and without insulation you can take size 54, but be sure to sew a model, it will help you check the volume and fit of the product.

Natalia 01/24/2019 23:28:19

Good afternoon Please tell me, for size 56, what is the width of the back on the pattern?

Administrator: Hello, the width of the back piece without allowance is 35.2 cm

08.12.2018 22:11:07

Good evening! Please tell me the parameters - OG 106, FROM 105, OB 106, which pattern size is better to take 52 or 54?

Administrator: Hello, size 54 will suit you.

Lena 02.12.2018 13:43:24

Good morning. You can use this pattern to sew it for a woman. I sewed 399 Alaska, it turned out very bulky on me. Here is a raglan sleeve, I think the top will not be so big.

Administrator: Hello, this is a men's design, we do not recommend sewing women's products using a men's design, since women's and male models have significant design differences, especially in such serious products. You can sew as you wish.

Gashina 11/20/2018 02:54:28

Good afternoon, tell me what size to choose based on the parameters og 112, from 103, about 115. Thank you

Administrator: Hello, size 56 will suit you

Love 09.11.2018 02:36:16

Hello!
For parameters og98, ot75, ob94 for Alpolux 200 insulation, which is the best size to take. I usually take 48, but how will the insulation affect it?

Every woman wants to please her beloved man. Pattern and sewing of a men's jacket with your own hands, made to individual sizes, will fit perfectly on your figure. The style, length and material for the future product - everything will be selected according to personal preferences.

Taking measurements

Measurements must be taken with special care if you plan to make patterns for a specific figure. But you can also sew a jacket using ready-made patterns, which greatly simplifies the entire work process. Nowadays there are many programs for creating patterns.

The following measurements are needed to create a pattern for a men's jacket (some of them are optional, for example, half-waist circumference), since it all depends on the chosen style:

1. Height.
2. Ssh - half neck circumference.
3. Сг - half chest circumference.
4. St - half waist circumference.
5. Sb - half hip circumference.
6. Shg - chest width.
7. Lts - back length to waist.
8. Shs - back width.
9. DP - shoulder length.
10. Op - shoulder circumference.
11. Dr - sleeve length.
12. Oz - wrist circumference.

For sewing according to finished pattern You only need to take six measurements, to accurately determine your size and compare them with table data from magazines:

1. Height measured from the top of the head to the feet, standing on a flat surface and without shoes.
2. Bust We measure at the highest points of the mammary gland.
3. Waist circumference measure over the tape that was previously tied at the waist.
4. Hip girth We measure at the most convex points of the buttocks.
5. The length of the sleeve measured by a slightly bent arm at the elbow, from the shoulder through the elbow to the wrist.
6. Shoulder length - from the highest point of the shoulder to its articulation with the arm.

size table

Size	cm	44	46	48	50	52	54	56
Height	cm	168	171	174	177	180	182	184
Og	cm	88	92	96	100	104	108	112
From	cm	78	82	86	90	94	98	104
About	cm	90	94	98	102	106	110	115
dr	cm	61	62	63	64	65	66	67
Osh	cm	37	38	39	40	41	42	43

Choice of style and decorative elements

The main styles of jackets and the most preferred types of fabric used for tailoring:

An important factor when choosing fabric for a jacket is the level of thermal insulation, high wear resistance, and moisture resistance.

When choosing insulation for a jacket, you should know that they are divided into three types: synthetic, natural and mixed.

The first type is hypoallergenic, shows good wear resistance and keeps its shape. However, it should be borne in mind that good quality material has these characteristics.

Despite this, many people prefer artificial materials natural, believing that it is safer and warmer. If we consider down and feathers, they will warm well, but this environmentally friendly insulation can cause allergies and is an excellent breeding ground for bacteria and mites.

The lighter the insulation fibers, the more air there is between them, which means that it will be very warm.

Decorative and functional elements are selected based on the selected jacket style. The main thing is that everything is appropriate.

Stage 2

Preparing patterns for a men's jacket pattern

Once all the measurements have been taken, the type of product and its style have been determined, you can begin preparing the patterns. They can be made on special scaled paper, tracing paper, cardboard or X-ray film.

You don’t have to make a pattern yourself or buy a ready-made one, because if you have an old jacket available that you like the fit of, you can make patterns based on it.

There are two options: either tear it apart, if you don’t mind, and trace everything on paper, or go further and use the method below.

The procedure for removing patterns from the finished product:

1. It is necessary to iron the item well, if the type of product and fabric allows it, lay it out on a flat, level surface. Next, we determine the middle of the back and shelf and mark them with pins.
2. Then we turn the product with the seams outward and fold it in half, focusing on the control marks in the form of pins. We put tracing paper on top and trace the details with a marker. You should start copying with the largest parts.
3. When creating patterns with sleeves, fold them in half, first you need to translate the 1st half, then fold them over, and trace the 2nd half.
4. When all the lines have been translated, they must be aligned using tailor's patterns, rulers or any suitable means at hand. It is also necessary to take measurements of all parts of the product and compare them with the resulting patterns.
5. It is very important to put control marks on the patterns you create so that the process of assembling the product is not particularly difficult. Such signs are usually placed on the waist, chest, hips, in the middle of the product, in the armhole, etc.
6. Don't forget about seaming allowances!
7. Now you can cut out all the parts.

Important! Immediately mark on paper which side of the product you removed the pattern from.

When using a finished pattern, it is also transferred to tracing paper or another more preferable material and cut out. The placement of the pattern pieces is determined by the presence of a complex pattern. With such drawings you will have to adjust.

Placement of patterns on the material and preparation for cutting

Important! Material consumption is determined by its width.

Calculate the required amount of fabric for sewing the product, taking into account the style, length and decorative elements. For a shoulder product with a sleeve, take the length of the product in its final form plus the length of the sleeve with seam allowances.

Reference! If the product involves additional finishing, for example, patch pockets, various flaps, briefcase pockets, non-standard collars, or fabric with a pattern, pile, checkered, or striped is used, then the fabric consumption increases by about 0.3-0.4 m.

There are several rules for preparing for cutting:

Important! The lining and insulation parts are built and cut in the same way as the main ones! If the insulation is planned to be voluminous, then the main parts are built one size larger.

ADVICE! When going to the store to buy fabric, you can take paper patterns of the product with you, so when choosing a fabric with a pattern, you can recalculate the fabric when choosing it.

Stage 3

Cutting fabrics and preparing to assemble the product

After all the elements of the product are cut out, they proceed to the preparatory work.

All stitching lines on each part are transferred to the other side. To do this, place safety pins along the contours and trace them on the second part, while not forgetting to place control marks.

We must not forget about the center lines so that your product does not warp. A line is laid along them, the stitch length of which can reach 2 cm.

Now you can move on to basting. If the jacket is planned to have insulation, then immediately sew it together with a lining. Sweep away all the details, focusing on the control marks, which must match on all the parts.

Once all the main parts are connected, it is necessary to try it on to ensure a good fit on the figure, to clarify the length of the hem and sleeves. If everything is in order, then you can proceed to stitching - joining the parts with a permanent stitch.

Final product assembly

If there are darts, you must sew them immediately.

If The product has pockets overhead or slotted ones, then they need to be stitched to the product. We mark the location of the future pocket on one part and put it face to face with the second to mark it on it too.

If the pockets are in the seams, then you must first overcast the edges of each part of the burlap and pin one part to the shelf, and the second to the back, aligning the control marks, stitch it to the edge and make fastenings.

Let's move on to the sleeves. We combine all the parts of the sleeve and sew them on the machine. Then we take the lining and do the same with it as with the outer part of the jacket.

If the jacket assumes a hood, then the prepared parts are ground off and basted to the jacket. They decide whether it will be removable or not.

Non-removable hood assembled: its outer part is sewn to the main part of the jacket, and the same is done for the lining.

If hood with zipper, then one work occurs by analogy, but using lightning. We attach one strip to the bottom of the hood, the second to the neck of the jacket.

If desired, you can use snaps or buttons instead of a zipper, and also decorate the hood with fur. Again, 3 options: make the edge permanent or with buttons (zippers).

Let's move on to connecting all the parts of the jacket. We have the main part, two sleeves and a hood. We attach the sleeves from the wrong side, connecting the outer part with the outer part, and by analogy we do everything with the lining.

If desired, the cuffs can also be decorated with fur or knitted inserts.

All you have to do is fasten the hood and the jacket is complete!

Before you start sewing a jacket made of genuine leather, you need to decide on the choice of material. There are a lot of varieties of leather, it all depends on the manufacture and processing. Modern technologies allow you to receive genuine leather high quality, elastic and various colors. In my case, these are kid skins, they are very soft and thin in thickness.


After selecting the skins, you should decide on their quantity. To do this, you need to prepare a pattern in advance, taking into account the style, all decorative details and the size of the figure. Then lay out the pattern (in the store) on the skins. This way you will understand how much bottom material it takes to make a jacket. Don’t forget also about the lower details: hem, lower collar, facings, etc.

Cut the jackets

After purchasing the material, we move on to cutting the jacket. Before cutting, outline with chalk areas of holes, unpainted areas, defects, etc. If the skins are in limited quantities, then the places with the least expressive defects can be used for the lower parts where they are not noticeable. The details of the pattern are cut out on the skins in the longitudinal direction, along the ridge. At this point the skins are less extensible than in the transverse direction. It is better to outline the patterns with chalk or a special pencil for leather. The handle leaves marks on the front side. You should cut from the front side, so defects on the skins are immediately visible and you can work around them.

The strongest part of the skin is the area along the ridge, so try to cut out parts that are subject to the greatest stress in these places. The abdominal area of ​​the skin, i.e. on the sides, more delicate, it can be used for small finishing parts and in places where the load is less great. If you have a large amount of material, then this area can be completely excluded.

Preparing for the first fitting

After all the details are cut out, it is necessary to try on. Some sources write that before cutting it is worth making a model of the product from simple fabric and only then transferring it ready-made template on the material. This is done for high-quality tailoring, since the leather cannot be basted; punctures from the needle remain on it. Therefore, all changes are made to the layout and the product is cut out from the finished parts, which is sewn directly under the machine. But if you are confident in your experience and the accuracy of the pattern, then making a mock-up can be avoided. In addition, there are very soft and thin skins on which punctures from needles do not remain at all. Test this on a small piece of paper in advance.

You can prepare the product for fitting without removing the details, for example, by joining it with a stapler, tape or a special adhesive pencil for leather that does not leave marks.

Read how to properly try on a product.

After fitting, the seams are sewn down using a Teflon foot; a regular foot does not fit; it does not slide on the skin.

Then the seams are pressed or ironed, depending on the model, and the allowances are fixed with glue. The glue for such cases is only suitable for leather; other glues roughen the seams when they dry. If necessary, the glue can be easily removed with acetone. To reduce the thickness of the seam, the seams are carefully pounded with a hammer.

If you need to add finishing stitches along the seams, also use a Teflon foot. Choose threads and needles depending on the type of leather, as well as the processing and model of the product. The finishing stitch width is recommended from 4.0 mm., it depends on the model and your wishes. Do not use machine fastenings on leather to prevent the stitching from unraveling; cut the threads, leaving 0.5 cm and singe the ends.

Main feature leather jackets, there is a lot of decorative finishing, for example, small details, curly seams, metal rivets and zippers. Genuine leather can be combined with various fabrics: knitwear, guipure, chiffon, drape, etc.

How to iron natural leather?!

Iron natural leather very carefully at low temperatures without steam using a dry iron, both on the front and back sides. Excessive moisture and heat will lead to deformation of skin areas. On a separate patch, check the skin for sensitivity to heat treatment.

• After finishing work, all chalk lines can be easily removed with a damp cloth, and appearance applied using a can of leather paint.
• When cutting a men's leather jacket, you need to take into account the activity in the shoulder girdle. Therefore, larger increases are made in the chest and back width than in the waist and hips. Also, the amount of increase depends on the thickness of the lining and the clothing worn under the jacket.
• Lining for leather jackets, choose from natural fabrics or containing natural fibers. Since it is synthetic, it does not allow air to pass through well, which increases sweating.
• Sewing genuine leather should be done on a production machine; household machines have a weak motor, which will lead to breakage or poor quality sewing of the product.
• Nonwoven or knitted adhesive can be used as cushioning and adhesive materials.
• Additional slip on the skin will be provided by lubricating the stitching area with vegetable oil.

Paid sizes

Size	Bust	Waist circumference	Hip girth
size 44 height 170 cm	88	78	94	Payment for goods Buy
size 46 height 172 cm	92	82	98	Payment for goods Buy
size 48 height 174 cm	96	86	102	Payment for goods Buy
size 50 height 176 cm	100	96	106	Payment for goods Buy
size 60	120	118	124	Payment for goods Buy

* As a result of payment, a file with a pattern is automatically sent to your specified email. If the file has not arrived, you need to check whether you entered the correct postal address when paying. In any case, if you do not receive the pattern, you do not need to pay again, just contact the address immediately [email protected]

**You can offer your payment option in the site feedback

Patterns are given without seam allowances.

The composition of the pattern set:

Sample size measurements:

The details of the lining and insulation are cut out according to the patterns of the top. The hems and facings are marked on the main patterns.

The description of tailoring of the model is made for size 44.

You will need:
- main fabric 2.50 m wide 1.50 m;
- insulation 2.0 m wide 1.50 m (in 1 layer);
- lining fabric 2.0 m wide 1.40 m;
- detachable zipper 70 cm long - 1 pc.;
- zipper 20 cm long - 2 pcs.;
- non-woven lining (to strengthen the entrance to the pocket with a zipper);
- buttons;
- sewing threads.

Cutting from the main fabric:
- front -2 details;


- hood - 2 parts;
- collar - 2 parts with a fold;
- windproof strip - 4 parts (internal and external);
- selection - 2 parts;
- facing of the back neck - 1 piece with a fold;
- upper pocket valve - 4 parts;
- lower pocket - 2 parts;
- side of the lower pocket - 2 parts;
- lower pocket flap - 4 parts;
- facing of the entrance to the welt pocket with a zipper.

Cutting from insulation:
- front -2 details;
- back - 1 piece with fold;
- sleeve - 2 parts (cut 5-6 cm longer);
- hood - 2 parts;
- collar - 1 piece with a fold;
- windproof strip - 2 parts (split 1 into 2 parts);
- upper pocket valve - 2 parts (split 1 into 2 parts);
- bottom pocket - 2 parts (split 1 into 2 parts);
- side of the lower pocket - 2 parts (split 1 into 2 parts);
- bottom pocket flap - 2 parts (split 1 into 2 parts).

Cutting from lining fabric:
- in front -2 parts (excluding selections);
- back - 1 piece with a fold (excluding the facing of the back neck);
- sleeve - 2 parts (cut 5-6 cm shorter);
- hood - 2 parts;
- burlap of the upper pocket - 4 parts;
- one-piece burlap of a welt pocket with a zipper, 2 lengths of the entrance to the pocket and a width equal to the width of the pocket.

Adviсe:
- if desired, you can insulate the jacket with a double layer of insulation and lay a windproof membrane. In this case, the jacket pattern should be taken a size larger;
- for ease of use, it is better to immediately baste the corresponding parts from the main fabric and insulation according to the allowances immediately after cutting. For front pieces, this should be done after making the zipper pockets.

Operating procedure
1. Make a welt pocket into the frame with a zipper. To do this, place a reinforced non-woven facing around the entrance to the pocket with the front side facing the front side of the front at the future location of the pocket. Draw a frame marking on the facing, and precisely lay a fine machine stitch along it. Cut the frame in the middle, diagonally in the corners. Turn the facing inside out, sweep out the frame, releasing the piping from the front side. If necessary, shorten the zipper by removing excess teeth. Place the zipper under the facing on the front part. Topstitch from the front side. Sew burlap onto the braid located below the entrance to the pocket. Turn it down and iron it. Fold it in half and stitch the other end to the other zipper strip. Sew burlap on the sides.
2. Connect the parts of the lower pockets with the side panels, fold them inside out and place a finishing stitch along the edges. Iron the side seam allowances to the wrong side, align the pockets with the markings and stitch. Make fastenings at the entrances to the pockets.
3. On the chest, make welt pockets with set-in leaves. On the front side, draw a rectangle for the entrance to the pocket. To the bottom side of the face, sew a piece of paper (facing folded in half with burlap sewn on) to the top side - another burlap with a valance. Cut through the front part, turn the pocket inside out, straighten, stitch. Align the burlap and stitch around the perimeter.
4. Sew the top/bottom flaps and windproof strips in pairs around the perimeter face to face. Turn, straighten, iron, stitch. Sew the valves to the front part.
5. Prepare the hood in the same way.
6. On the parts made of the main fabric and lining, sew shoulder seams and sew in the sleeves. Use a single stitch to sew the side seam and the sleeve seam. On the sleeve made of lining fabric, leave an unhemmed hole for turning the product inside out. Sew to the lining the hem and back neckline that are already aligned along the shoulder sections.
7. Sew the outer part of the neck stand and hood into the neck of the jacket, and the inner part into the neck of the lining. Connect and stitch the neck posts along the top edge. Place the lining into the product.
8. Fold the sleeve facing, stitch the bottom of the sleeve. Connect the bottom of the sleeve with the lining. Repeat for the second sleeve.
9. Install the buttons on the outer windproof strip (will be on the left), the counterpart - on the front parts (on the right), as well as on the pockets.
10. On the right side, insert an internal windproof strip, fused with zipper tape, between the sides and collars of the jacket, and stitch from the inside. Place the second part of the zipper on the left side and stitch.
11. Hem the bottom edge from the inside. Connect the allowances of the inner and outer parts of the neck stand with a stitch. Turn the product through the hole in the sleeve. Sew the bottom edge of the jacket, sides and collar.
12. Sew an external windproof strip (like a valve) to the left side.

For designing a men's jacket We need measurements for an individual or standard figure, a table of increases for a loose fit, tracing paper and a pencil.

Measurements required for drawing:

Half neck circumference - Ssh

Half chest girth - Сg

Chest width - Shg

Back length - Dts

Back width - Shs

Shoulder width - Sh

Sleeve length - Dr

Product length - Di

If you do not know how to take measurements correctly, follow the link - Standard measurements -.

Meshing

All pattern constructions WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES

Constructing an angle with a vertex at a point Ao.

Grid width

We measure a segment equal to the width of the product along the chest line Ao a2 = Cr + Pg, i.e. half chest circumference + increase for loose fitting (9 cm).

Mesh length

From Ao down measure the length of the product (according to the model): Di + 2.5 + 3 cm(on an elastic band) and denote it with a dot N.

From a2 draw a straight line down to the level N and denote H2.

From N to the right draw a horizontal line to the segment a2 H2 and denote H2.

Our drawing consists of 3 parts: back, armhole and shelf.

Calculated from Shs, Shg and Pr for free bonding to these areas.

Back width

From point Ao to the right we measure the segment Ao a = Shs + Pr (3 cm).

Shelf width

From point a2 to the left we measure the segment a2 a1 = Shg + Pr (2 cm).

Armhole depth

There is no need to calculate the depth of the armhole using the formula. Values ​​are taken from 20 cm.

From point Ao measure down 20 cm and mark G.

From point G to the right we draw a horizontal line and designate G2.

From point A And a1 draw vertical lines downwards, limiting the width of the armhole section and mark G1 G3.

Points G1 And G3 divide by hit and mark with a dot G4; from this point we lower the perpendicular down to the segment H H2 and denote H1.

Waistline

From point Ao measure down Dts + 2.5 and denoted by a dot T.

From T to the right we draw a horizontal line and designate T1 T2.

Building the back

Neck

From point Ao to the right we measure a segment equal to Ssh: 3 + Pshgor (1 cm) and denoted by a dot A1.

From point A1 down draw a vertical line equal to 2.5 cm and designate 1 .

From point 1 to the left draw a horizontal line to a straight line And he and denote 2 .

Points A1 And 2 connect with a smooth line.

Shoulder

From point A measure down 3 cm and put a dot 3 .

From point A1 through the point 3 measure out Shp (shoulder width) + 1 cm. and denote P.

Armhole

Let's find an auxiliary point 4 . For this segment a G1 divide into three equal parts (see figure). Points P 4 G4 connect with a smooth line.

You can draw this line by hand or use a pattern.

Building a shelf

Neck

From point a2 measure down 2 cm and mark 5 .

From point 5 measure to the left Ssh: 3 + 2 cm. and denote A2.

From point 5 measure down the segment 5 A3 = a2 A2 - 1 cm.

Points A2 A3 connect with a smooth line by hand or using a “droplet” pattern.

If it’s difficult for you to draw a line by hand, then build a right angle A2 8 A3 and from the point 8 divide the angle in half by marking it with a dot 9 . This will be an auxiliary point for the neck.

Shoulder

From point a1 measure down 5 cm and put a dot 6 .

From point A2 through the point 6 measure the shoulder width Shp and denoted by a dot P1.

Armhole

Now the segment a1 G3 divide into equal 4 parts, bottom part let's denote 7 .

Connecting the points with a smooth line P1 7 G4.

Construction of the sleeve

A shirt-cut sleeve differs from a set-in sleeve in its wider width and lower edging height.

The height of the edging and the degree of deepening of the armhole are interconnected. The more voluminous (wider) the shape of the product, the smaller the height of the rim.

To construct the sleeve, draw two mutually perpendicular lines with the center at the point O1.

Edge height

Height of the rim - segment O1 O2- determined depending on the shape of the product:

O1 O2 = 3-7 cm- for products of volumetric soft shape - (rim height from 4 cm),

O1 O2 = 8-11 cm- for products of a calmer shape with moderate softness - (rim height from 4-9 cm),

O1 O2 = 12-14 cm- for products of the smallest volume - (rim height 2-4 cm).

O2 P1 = O2 P2 = Dpr: 2, Where DPR- length of the armhole contour, and P1 P2- sleeve width when unfolded.

Sleeve width

From O2 with a radius equal to half the length of the armhole (in the drawing of the front and back), we make notches on a horizontal line, passing through O1 and denoted by dots P1 P2.

Segments O1 P1 And O1 P2 divide in half and construct perpendiculars.

Now let’s define the auxiliary points for designing the sleeve cap: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 .

Segments P1 3; 3 O2; O2 4; 4 P2, divide in half.

From the obtained points we construct perpendiculars.

From points 5 And 6 1 cm each, from the point 7 - 0.5 cm, from the point 8 - 1.5 cm.

We draw the okat line through the points P1 3 O2 4 P2.

The length of the sleeve

From point O2 down measure the length of the sleeve: O2 M + 3 (for elastic) = Druk.

Sleeve width at bottom

Along a horizontal line from a point M measure the sleeve width (according to the model): M M1 = M M2 = W arms below (finished).

Cuff with elastic band

Draw a rectangle with a length equal to the bottom of the sleeve and a width equal to the width of the elastic (if the rubber will be ground together with the cuff).

And if the elastic is inserted into the cuff, then + 0.5 cm.

Construction of the collar

The construction of a stand-up collar is very simple and is a rectangle whose length is equal to the length of the front neck and back. The collar height is at your discretion. Upper part Let's widen the collar a little.

Pocket

The model features welt pockets with zippers and leaflets.

Draw a leaf 19 cm long and 3 cm wide.

2 leaves per pocket.

Let's draw a burlap pocket, the length of the entrance is equal to the length of the leaf, and the shape is arbitrary.

Plank

According to the model, the bar is rectangular in shape. Draw a rectangle whose length is equal to the length of the center shelf + the height of the collar (Fig. a).

The plank consists of one piece with a bend.

If you want rounded ends of the plank, then we round the ends of the plank as shown in Figure b and when cutting we will need 2 parts.

The construction of the men's jacket has been completed.

Before laying out the parts on the fabric, check the number of parts and the direction of the grain thread on each of them.