Despite the abundance of new toys, girls all over the world still play with dolls. And one of the most popular are Barbie and other beauties of the same size. Therefore, elegant, unusual, interesting dresses will be needed by any little housewife. With hook and a small amount threads you can knit a dress for Barbie and please the child.

Required materials:

• hook №1,1
• yarn "Iris" blue
• yarn "Grass" white color
• Velcro for clothes

How to crochet a dress for Barbie, a master class with a photo

Work starts from the waist. First you need to dial a simple chain of 40 air loops.

The dress is made with single crochet. In the first row, no increase is needed:

In the second and fourth row, five columns are added. Here is the canvas that should be formed:

The same must be done in the sixth and eighth row. This is how the top of the dress looks like on the tenth row:

Periodically it is worth trying the canvas on the doll to make sure that the dress will fit well. On the eleventh row, you need to knit 12 single crochets + 5 double crochets in one base + 3 single crochets + 5 double crochets in one loop. Next come simple single crochet.

The twelfth row is performed in a special way. Before the first arch, you need to knit single crochets. Above the last column before the arch and the first double crochet column, you need to tie two columns together. The same decrease in loops occurs after the first arch, as well as at the beginning and end of the next.

The next two rows are performed in the same way, with a decrease in the total number of loops. The last row is knitted without reducing the number of columns. The thread breaks.

Now you can move on to the skirt. To do this, the thread is attached to the beginning of the canvas, a series of single crochets are made.

In the next row, in every second loop of the base you need to knit two columns.

In the third row, there is no need to increase.

Knitting continues unchanged until the eighth row.

Now you can cut off the blue thread and move on to the fastener. To do this, a piece of Velcro is carefully sewn to each shelf of the dress.

First to the top:

Then to the bottom:

The shelves of the dress are superimposed on each other and neatly sewn together:

Here's what should happen:

The next row is done with Grass. The number of loops does not need to be changed.

Before proceeding to the main knitting, it is necessary to tie the frame of the dress. Place the doll in the frame and try on the Barbie dress as you knit.

You will need:

• cotton yarn No. 10: 550 m of aqua and 550 m of white;
• 4 small buttons;
• bobbin thread of aquamarine color, sewing and embroidery needles;
• umbrella rod - 9 cm;
• white ribbon;
• foam ball - 6 cm in diameter;
• metal hook No. 7 (1.65 mm).

Knitting density:
8 art. without nak. = 2.5 cm;
10 rows of Art. without nak. = 2.5 cm;
1 st. with nak. = 1 cm high.

The dress.

With a sea-green thread, dial 27 ch.

1st row: st. without nak. into the second loop from the hook and into each ch. to end; 1 vp; turn (26)
The resulting length should clearly correspond to the length of the doll's waist + a place for a button.

2-4 rows: 26 tbsp. no hook, ch 1, turn.

5th row: 25 st. without nak., then 2 tbsp. without nak. in the last st. previous row, ch 1, turn (27)

6 row: 7 tbsp. without nak., (2 tbsp. without nak. in the next loop, then 3 tbsp. without nak.) - 3 times, 2 tbsp. without nak. in a trace. loop, then 7 tbsp. no hook, ch 1, turn (31)

7th row: 8 tbsp. without nak., 2 tbsp. without nak. in a trace. loop, then 13 tbsp. without nak., 2 tbsp. without nak. in a trace. loop, then 8 tbsp. no hook, ch 1, turn (33)

8 row: 33 art. no hook, ch 1, turn.

9 row: 8 tbsp. without nak., 2 tbsp. without nak. in a trace. loop, then 15 tbsp. without nak., 2 tbsp. without nak. in a trace. loop, then 8 tbsp. no hook, ch 1, turn (35)

10 row: 35 art. no hook, ch 1, turn.

11 row: 8 art. without nak., 2 tbsp. without nak. in a trace. loop, then 17 tbsp. without nak., 2 tbsp. without nak. in a trace. loop, then 8 tbsp. no hook, ch 1, turn (37)

12 row: 37 art. no hook, ch 1, turn.

13 row: art. without nak. in the first column, 2 tbsp. without nak. next, then 13 tbsp. without nak., skip 1 loop, 10 tbsp. with nak. in a trace. loop, skip 1 loop, art. without nak. in the next, skip 1 loop, 10 tbsp. with nak. in a trace. loop, skip 1 loop, then 13 tbsp. without nak., 2 tbsp. without nak. next, Art. without nak. in the last st., ch 1, turn. (53)

14 row: 15 art. without nak., skip 1 loop, 9 tbsp. with nak., skip 1 loop, st. without nak., skip 1 loop, 9 tbsp. with nak., skip 1 loop, 15 tbsp. no hook, 1 ch. turn (49)

15 row: 14 tbsp. without nak., skip 1 loop, 9 tbsp. without nak., skip 1 loop, 9 tbsp. without nak., skip 1 loop, 14 tbsp. no hook, ch 1, turn.

Sew on 3 buttons at the top back.

Sleeve(2 pcs) - consists of two parts. Bottom part. Knitted in a circle.

With a sea-green thread, dial 17 ch, connect with a half stitch. without nak. in the first loop to make a ring.

1 row: ch 1, st. without nak. in the same loop, 3 tbsp. without nak., half a with nak. in a trace. vp, 2 tbsp. with nak. in each of the tracks. 3 loops, then 2 tbsp. with nak., again 2 tbsp. with nak. in a trace. 3 loops, semi-st. with nak. in a trace. loop, 3 tbsp. without nak., connect half-st. without nak. in the first st. without nak. (23)

2nd row: ch 1, st. without nak. with the same loop, 6 tbsp. without nak., skip 1 loop, then 2 tbsp. with nak. in each of the tracks. 8 loops, skip 1 loop, 6 tbsp. without nak., connect half-st. without nak. in the first st. without nak. (29)

3 row: ch 1, st. without nak. with the same loop, 6 tbsp. without nak., half a with nak., 14 tbsp. with nak., semist. with nak., 6 tbsp. without nak., connect half-st. without nak. in the first st. without nak.

4th row: ch 1, st. without nak. with the same loop, (knit 2 loops together with a column without nak.) - 2 times, skip 1 loop, st. with nak. in a trace. loop, (knit 2 loops together with a column with nak.) - 8 times, art. with nak. in a trace. loop, skip 1 loop, (knit 2 loops together with a column without nak.) - 2 times, connect half. without nak. in the first st. without nak.

5th row: 15 tbsp. without nak., half a without nak. in a trace. loop. Fasten the thread.

Upper part (shoulder).

Place the last row of the lower part of the sleeve with the right side facing you, attach the sea-green thread with a half stitch. without nak. into the connecting loop of the initial ring from the ch, dial 3 ch, then st. with nak. in the same loop, then 2 tbsp. with nak. in a loop - 4 times, then 2 tbsp. with 2 nak. in a loop - 8 times, again 2 tbsp. with nak. in a loop - 4 times, connect half. without nak. in the upper loop from the first 3 ch.

Fasten the thread, leaving enough long end for stitching.

Sew the sleeves to the bodice (armpits) with a few stitches.
Repeat the same for the second sleeve.

Skirt.

Position the bodice with the front towards you, attach the aquamarine thread using art. without nak. in the first loop from the initial ch. bodice.

1st row: st. without nak. in a trace. loop, 3 ch, (st. with nak., then 1 ch over the next loop) - 23 times, st. with nak. in the last loop, turn.

2 row: ch 5, (st. with nak., then 2 ch above the st. with nak. of the previous row) - 23 times, skip one of the three ch, st. with nak. in a trace. vp, turn.

3 row: 5 ch, * V-shaped column = (st. with nak., 1 ch., st. with nak.) - in the next. Art., 2 v.p.; repeat from * 22 more times, skip 2 ch, st. with nak. in the third vp; turn.

4 row: 6 ch, * (st. with nak., 1 ch., st. with nak.) - in the middle of the same V-shaped column of the previous row, 3 ch; repeat from * 22 more times, skip 2 ch, st. with nak. in the third vp; turn.

5 row: 6 ch, * (2 sts with nak, 2 ch, 2 sts with nak) - in the middle of the V-shaped column of the previous row (should get a shell), 3 ch .; repeat from * 22 more times, skip 2 ch, st. with nak. in the third ch, 3 ch, connect the half. without nak. in the third loop of the 6 initial ch. this row. (23 shells) Thus, further knit in a circle.

6 row: 3 ch, (st. with nak., 2 ch., 2 st. with nak.) Into the loop connecting the previous row, * 3 ch., (2 st. with nak. , 2 vp, 2 tbsp with nak.) in the middle of the shell; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 3, connect half. without nak. in the upper loop of the 3 initial ch. (24 shells)

7 row: half. without nak. in the middle of the first shell, ch 3, (st. with nak., 2 ch, 2 tbsp. with nak.) in the middle of the same shell, * 3 ch, (2 tbsp. with nak ., 3 ch, 2 tbsp with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 3, connect half. without nak. to the top of the 3 initial ch.

8 row: half. without nak. in the middle of the first shell, ch 3, (st. with nak., 3 ch, 2 tbsp. with nak.) in the middle of the same shell, * 3 ch, (2 tbsp. with nak ., 3 ch, 2 tbsp with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 3, connect half. without nak. to the top of the 3 initial ch.

9 row: half. without nak. in the middle of the first shell, ch 3, (2 tbsp with nak, 3 ch, 3 tbsp with nak.) in the middle of the same shell, * 3 ch, (3 tbsp with nak., 3 vp, 3 items with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 3, connect half. without nak. to the top of the 3 initial ch.

10 row: half. without nak. in the middle of the first shell, ch 3, (2 tbsp with nak, 4 ch, 3 tbsp with nak.) in the middle of the same shell, * 3 ch, (3 tbsp with nak., 4 vp, 3 items with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 3, connect half. without nak. to the top of the 3 initial ch.

11 row: half. without nak. in the middle of the first shell, ch 3, (2 tbsp with nak, 4 ch, 3 tbsp with nak.) in the middle of the same shell, * 4 ch, (3 tbsp with nak., 4 vp, 3 items with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, 4 ch, connect half. without nak. to the top of the 3 initial ch.

12 row: half. without nak. in the middle of the first shell, ch 3, (3 tbsp with nak, 4 ch, 4 tbsp with nak) in the middle of the same shell, * 4 ch, (4 tbsp with nak., 4 vp, 4 items with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, 4 ch, connect half. without nak. to the top of the 3 initial ch.

13 row: half. without nak. in the middle of the first shell, ch 3, (3 sts with nak, 4 ch, 4 tbsp with nak) in the middle of the same shell, * 5 ch, (4 tbsp with nak., 4 vp, 4 items with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 5, connect half. without nak. to the top of the 3 initial ch.

14 row: half. without nak. in the middle of the first shell, ch 3, (4 sts with nak, 4 ch, 5 st with naks) in the middle of the same shell, * 5 ch, (5 st with nak., 4 vp, 5 tbsp with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 5, connect half. without nak. to the top of the 3 initial ch.

15 row: half. without nak. in the middle of the first shell, ch 3, (5 st. with nak., 4 ch., 6 st. with nak.) in the middle of the same shell, * 5 ch., (6 st. with nak., 4 vp, 6 tbsp with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 5, connect half. without nak. to the top of the 3 initial ch.

16 row: half. without nak. in the middle of the first shell, ch 3, (5 st. with nak., 5 ch., 6 st. with nak.) in the middle of the same shell, * 6 ch., (6 st. with nak., 5 vp, 6 tbsp with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 6, connect half. without nak. to the top of the 3 initial ch.

17 row: half. without nak. in the middle of the first shell, ch 3, (6 st. with nak., 3 ch., 7 st. with nak.) in the middle of the same shell, * 6 ch., (7 st. with nak., 3 vp, 7 st. with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 6, connect half. without nak. to the top of the 3 initial ch.

18 row: half. without nak. in the middle of the first shell, art. without nak. in the same shell, * 5 ch, (st. with nak., 5 ch., st. with nak.) in the next. a gap of 6 ch, (5 ch, st. without nak.) - in the next. a gap of 3 ch; repeat from * in a circle, at the end of 5 ch, half. without nak. in the first st. without nak. (70 gaps out of 5 ch (translator's note: or 72 - illegible in the original)) Fasten the thread.

19 row: consists of 2 parts, i.e. Knit the first part, turn and add a frill.

1. 19 A: attach a white thread with a column without nak. in any interval from 5 v.p. the last row, (7 ch, st. without nak. in the next interval of 5 ch) - in a circle, at the end of 7 ch, half-st. without nak. in the first st. without nak.; turn.

2. 19 V: (7 ch, st. without nak. in the next column of row 19A) - in a circle, at the end of 4 ch, st. with nak. in the first st. without nak. row 19A, turn.

20 row (we knit only in the loops of row 19B, the loops of row 19A will be in front of them): (ch 7, st without nak in the next arc) - in a circle, at the end of 4 ch, st. with nak. at the base of the first 7 ch. DO NOT turn.

21-23 rows: (ch 7, st without crochet in the next arc) - in a circle, at the end of ch 4, st. with nak. at the base of the first 7 ch.

Rows 24A & 24B: Repeat Rows 19A & 19B.

Rows 25-28: Repeat 21 rows. At the end of the last row, fasten the thread.

Bottom frill

1 row: attach a white thread with a column without nak. in any interval from the 7th v.p. of the last row of the skirt, (9 st. with nak. in the next interval of 7-ch, st. without nak. in the next interval) in a circle, at the end of the half-st. without nak. in the first st. without nak.

2 row: 4 ch, * (st. with nak., 1 ch., st. with nak.) in the next. column of the previous row, (1 ch, st. with nak. in the next st.) - 2 times, 1 ch, (st. with nak., 1 ch., st. with nak. ) in the next. st., (1 ch., st. with nak. in the next st.) - 2 times, 1 ch., (st. with nak., 1 ch., st. with nak.) in a trace. st., 1 v.p., st. with nak. in a trace. Art., 1 vp, skip next. from. without nak. previous row, art. with nak. in Art. with nak. previous row; repeat from * in a circle, at the end of the half. without nak. in the 3rd loop from the initial 4 ch.

3 row: half. without nak. in the first interval of 1 ch, 4 ch, (st. with nak., 1 ch) - in two next. a gap of 1 vp, * (st. with nak., 1 v.p., st. with nak.) - in the next. gap, (1 vp, st. with nak.) - in three next. interval, 1 vp; repeat in a circle, at the end of the half-st. without nak. in the 3rd loop from the initial ch.

4 row: half. without nak. in the first interval of 1 ch, (3 ch, st. without acc. in the next interval of 1 ch) - in a circle, at the end of the half-st. without nak. at the base of the first 3 ch. Fasten the thread.

5 row: attach a sea-green thread with a column without nak. in any of the arcs (from 3 loops), (3 ch, st. without nak. in the next arc) - in a circle, at the end of the half-st. without nak. in the first st. without nak.
Fasten the thread.

Ruffles for rows 19A and 24A: repeat in the same way as the bottom frill. Starch the frills.

Kapor.

With a sea-green thread, dial 28 ch.

1st row: st. without nak. in the second loop from the hook and in each loop to the end; turn. (27)

2 row: ch 3, 8 tbsp. with nak., 2 tbsp. with nak. in one loop - 3 times, 4 tbsp. with nak., 2 tbsp. with nak. in one loop - 3 times, 8 tbsp. with nak., turn. (32)

3 row: ch 3, 31 st. with nak., turn.

4 row (we knit only in the back half loops): half. without nak. in the first loop, then 3 tbsp. without nak., half a with nak., Art. with nak., (st. with nak.; 2 tbsp. with nak. in the next loop) - 5 times; (2 sts with nak in the next loop; st with nak) - 5 times; Art. with nak., semist. with nak., 3 tbsp. without nak., half a without nak., then half. without nak. down to the first rows and connect the first and last loop 1st row with the help of half-st. without nak. Fasten the thread.

Hood edge. Attach a white thread with a half stitch. without nak. in the first half. without nak. 4th row, skip next. loop, 5 tbsp. without nak., (3 vp, st. without nak. in the next loop) - 28 times, 4 tbsp. without nak., skip the next. loop, half without nak. in a trace. loop. Fasten the thread.

Umbrella.

Knit in the round with white thread.

Dial 4 ch, close into a ring with the help of half. without nak. in the first c.p.

1 row: ch 3, 13 st. with nak. into a ring, connect the semist. without nak. to the top of the 3 ch. (14 st. with nak.)

2 row: ch 5, st. with nak. in a trace. column of the previous row, (2 ch, st. with nak. in the next column of the previous row) - 12 times, 2 ch, connect half. without nak. in the 3rd loop of the first 5 ch. (14 intervals from ch)

3 row: half. without nak. in a trace. gap, 3 vp, art. with nak. in the same interval, 2 vp, 2 tbsp. with nak. in the same interval, * 1 vp, skip the next. gap, (2 tbsp. with nak., 2 v.p., 2 tbsp. with nak.) in the next. span; repeat from * 5 more times, ch 1, connect half. without nak. to the top of the 3 ch.

4 row: half. without nak. in a trace. interval, 3 vp, 2 tbsp. with nak. in the same interval, 3 vp, 3 tbsp. with nak. in the same interval, * 1 vp, skip the next. gap, (3 st. with nak., 3 v.p., 3 tbsp. with nak.) in the next. a gap of 2 ch; repeat from * 5 more times, ch 1, connect half. without nak. to the top of the 3 ch.

5 row: half. without nak. in a trace. gap, 3 vp, 3 tbsp. with nak. in the same interval, 4 vp, 4 tbsp. with nak. in the same interval, * 2 ch, skip the next. gap, (4 tbsp. with nak., 4 v.p., 4 tbsp. with nak.) in the next. a gap of 3 ch; repeat from * 5 more times, ch 2, connect half. without nak. to the top of the 3 ch.

6 row: half. without nak. in a trace. gap, 3 vp, 4 tbsp. with nak. in the same interval, 3 vp, 5 tbsp. with nak. in the same interval, * ch 3, skip the next. gap, (5 st. with nak., 3 v.p., 5 tbsp. with nak.) in the next. a gap of 4 ch; repeat from * 5 more times, ch 2, connect half. without nak. to the top of the 3 ch.

7th row: 10 ch, (st. without nach. in the next interval of 3 ch, 7 ch, st. with nach. in the next interval of 3 ch ., 7 ch) - in a circle, ending half a st. without nak. in the 3rd loop from the first 10 ch.

8 row: 7 tbsp. without nak. in each interval around the circle. Connect half. without nak. in the first st. without nak.

9th row: ch 5, * skip next. loop, (st. with 3 nak., 1 ch) - 3 times in the next. loop, skip the next. loop, st. with 3 nak. in a trace. loop, ch 1; repeat from * in a circle, at the very end skip the last loop, then half. without nak. in the 4th loop of the first 5 ch. Fasten the thread.

Umbrella rim.

Attach the blue thread with a column without nak. in any interval from 1 v.p. the last row of the umbrella, (3 ch, st. without nak. in the next gap) - in a circle, 3 ch, connect the semi-st. without nak. in the first st. without nak. Fasten the thread.

Starch the umbrella and shape it into shape by pulling it over a styrofoam ball (or other rounded surface).

Wrap the rod with a white ribbon and make an umbrella handle: pierce the middle of the umbrella with one end, and bend the other end to make a curved handle.

/ 10.03.2016 at 09:54

Hello my dear!

I have a very strange question for you. How long have you been playing with dolls? It’s just that the other day, before writing about how to knit clothes for Barbie with knitting needles, I remembered my childhood a little. She dressed up the doll in new outfits. And you know? I liked these feelings.

Associations poured in and such warm, such quivering memories of childhood! And then the memories of those times when I was younger, and my daughter was very small - contact with something good and bright ...

Maybe for the sake of this, we, adult girls, also sometimes need to play a little with dolls?

Well, if we leave aside sentiments, then knitting clothes for dolls is not such a frivolous task as it might seem at first glance.

Have you ever had to deal with a baby who is passionate about playing with dolls? Then you probably know that there are no many outfits for Barbie!

The little girl will be happy with every new doll clothes! Isn't it worth spending a little of your time and work for the sake of happy sparks in wide-open, amazed eyes?

And then - this work from all sides has an educational character. We can introduce the little lady to needlework ("And you can do this! Let's learn!").

We can develop her taste, ("This skirt matches this blouse. And these colors - look how beautifully combined!"), Attach to order ("Let's neatly fold all HER bunnies!"). Well, the notorious one is developing fine motor skills, when the doll needs to be changed often, tie something there, fasten it ...

And I also caught myself thinking that the same poncho can, in principle, be knitted for a girl. And such a pencil skirt would easily fit and how female model…

Like this. And it all started just with puppet outfits! That is, when modeling clothes for dolls, you can simultaneously think about how to adapt these models to a real human wardrobe.

However, she got sick. It's time to start describing the job. Let's start.

I want to say right away that since Barbie is a miniature young lady, it is better to take thinner yarn and a knitting needle for her outfits. I used needles number 2.5. The outfits are designed for a standard Barbie with a height of 29 cm.

Pencil skirt

We start knitting the skirt from below. Cast on 36 stitches and knit 4 rows first double (hollow) rubber band. This is necessary so that it pulls the bottom edge a little, since the pattern with which the skirt is made also tightens the knitted fabric. In addition, a double elastic band will not allow the bottom edge to wrap and will serve as a kind of hem at the bottom.

After the double elastic band, we move on to the main pattern - small and dense.

Description of the main pattern:

Cast on an even number of stitches.

1st row: 1 front loop, *shift 2 loops to the right: knit the second loop with the front wall over the first loop, then knit the first loop with the front wall *. Knit 1 at end of row.

2nd row: knit all loops with purl "grandmother's" way, as described in this lesson(this is necessary in order to make it easier to knit the next row),

3rd row:*Shift 2 loops to the left: knit the second loop with the front behind the back wall behind the first loop, then knit the first loop with the front behind the back wall *.

4th row: purl all loops the classic way(as described in lesson 6).

Repeat the pattern from the 1st row.

We continue to knit until the length of the skirt reaches 8 cm. Then, for the bevels on the sides, we close 1 loop on each side 3 times through 3 rows. After that, we knit a row with holes, alternating: 2 together front, yarn over. The next row is the purl loops, after which the loops are closed.

Here's what the skirt looks like before assembly:

The holes on the top are needed so that you can thread a cord or braid through them and pull off the skirt at the Barbie waist.

We sew a skirt. The seam is one at the back. You can sew the edges completely, or you can not sew a little to the bottom - you get a cut.

Poncho

We knit a poncho from above, from the neck. Cast on 36 stitches and work 2 rows in rib 1×1. Then we knit a poncho pattern « nodules» , adding to expand the loop in the middle and around the edges. We add loops nakida, which in the wrong rows are knitted with crossed loops.

We distribute the loops after the elastic band as follows: hem, 2 front, yarn over, 14 loops with the “Knots” pattern, yarn over, 2 front, yarn over, 14 loops with the “Knots” pattern, yarn over, 2 front, edge. Loops are highlighted in red, on the sides of which in each front row you need to make additions with crochets. In the purl rows, we knit these loops with purl loops, and the yarns, as I said, are knitted with crossed loops. We knit the main pattern, as required by its description.

We knit 6 rapports in height with the "Knots" pattern. Then we perform on the front surface jacquard pattern(see diagram). There is no need to add loops.

When we finished knitting the jacquard pattern, we knit a row, alternating: yarn over, 2 loops together with the front one - this is necessary to form a jagged edge along the bottom of the poncho. Then we knit 5 more rows of the front surface and close the loops. This is what the poncho looks like at the end of knitting before assembly.

• Assembly. Sew the side edges of the poncho. Along the row with holes, we make a fold and carefully hem the hem from the wrong side. Poncho ready:

Now you can safely dress up our model in new outfits, and - at least on the podium! And if you're really interested knitted clothes for Barbie, then look at

/ 08/07/2016 at 18:01

Greetings, my dears!

Again I decided to make a new thing for the doll. Only now it won't be ballroom, and a casual dress for Barbie with knitting needles is fitted, with fashionable skirt pleated and three-quarter sleeves.

The main difficulty of knitting for Barbie, in my opinion, is that you need to knit with thin threads and on thin knitting needles, and still for such a “girl” like her, it turns out big ... I'll try to provide a master class of the process.

For knitting this dress, I took Turkish yarn. sectional dyeing ANGORA and knitting needles No. 2. Knitting density: 3 loops x 6 rows = 1 x 1 cm on the front surface.

Skirt

We start knitting a dress with a skirt, which we will knit from top to bottom - from the waist.

Cast on 27 stitches. In the first row, we immediately add loops in this way: edge, * yarn over, front * - repeat until the end of the row. At the end of the row, the last loop is edge. Thus, there are 52 loops in the row. In the next row, we knit all loops and crochets with purl loops.

edging for the skirt we knit as usual to get a chain-like edge (the last wrong side, the first one is removed untied). Thus, at the beginning of knitting, we added loops and got holes that will come in handy later.

1st row(front side of the work): * 1 out., 1 person., 1 loop to remove untied (thread at work), 1 person., 1 out. * - repeat the combination to the end of the row (it will turn out 10 times);

2nd row and all even rows (wrong side of the work): the loops removed in the previous row are knitted on the wrong side, all other loops are knit.
Further odd rows from 3rd to 11th: knit as the first row; and all even rows from the 2nd to the 12th - knit as the second row.

13th row:* 1 out., yarn over, 1 person., remove 1 loop (thread at work), 1 person., yarn over, 1 out. * - repeat from * to *.

14th row: knit, like all even rows, knit yarns with crossed facial loops so that holes do not form (they serve to expand the pleated wedges).

15th row and all odd rows up to and including the 23rd row: * 1 out., 2 persons., 1 loop to remove untied (thread at work), 2 persons., 1 out. * - repeat from * to *.

even rows: we knit, as before - the loops removed in the previous row - purl, the rest are all front loops

What did we get? As you may have guessed, the removed loop serves to form an inflection on the outer, protruding edge of the pleated, and a strip of 2 loops of the wrong side forms its internal inflection.

Thus, with the help of yarn, we will expand the pleating wedges every 12 rows (in the face on the outer fold, it looks like a chain of 6 loops that are removed in the front rows. That is, we knitted chains of removed loops to the height of 6 loops - and we make additions with crochets, it’s just easier to count the rows). We add the loops with crochets after and before the wrong loops, until we get 5 loops on each side of the removed loop.

That is, we do the next addition with crochets in the 25th row (we get 3 loops on the sides of the removed loops), in the 37th row (we get 4 loops each), in the 49th row (already 5 loops each). In the even rows that follow the rows with the crochets, we knit the crochets with crossed loops.

If you want a shorter skirt - you can add loops up to 4, if you want longer - add at the same interval to the desired length. After the last increase, we knit another 11 rows and in the wrong row we freely close all the loops in the rhythm of the pattern.

Now the skirt is ready, or rather its turn:

• Note: Actually, this skirt is more comfortable. knit in a circle. But I decided that I would need to leave a slit along the top for comfortable dressing, and I did not know beforehand how long it would be needed. Therefore, I decided to sew the skirt at the back to the distance I needed.

Bodice

Cast on 26 sts along the top edge of the skirt. To do this, we draw out the loops by inserting the knitting needle into the holes formed from the crochets in the very first row, and we collect the last loop from the hem.

Selection of loops from the top edge of the skirt.

2nd row and all even rows (wrong side of the work): we knit with purl loops, with the exception of the edge loops, which, as you remember, we knit with facial loops.

Attention! For the bodice, so that the edges are denser and do not wrap, we will knit the hem so that we get a knotted edge. To do this, we knit the first and last loops of the row each time only with facial loops.

We knit the 3rd (front) row as follows: edge (front) loop, 1 front, yarn over, 2 loops together with the front with a slope to the left, 4 front, 2 loops together with the front with a slope to the right, 6 front, 2 loops together with the front with a slope to the left , 4 front, 2 loops together front with a slope to the right, yarn over, 1 front, edge (front).

In this row, we started to make holes along the edges for the fastener in the form of lacing and reduced 2 loops in the center for a more fitted dress.

5th row: all loops are facial.
7th row: edge, 1 front, yarn over, 2 loops together front with a slope to the left, 16 front, 2 loops together front with a slope to the right, yarn over, front, edge.

9th row: all loops are facial;

11th row: knit like 7th row;

13th row: 8 knit (including hem), yarn over, knit, yarn over, knit, yarn over, knit, yarn over, knit 2, yarn over, knit, yarn over, knit, yarn over, knit, yarn over, knit 8 (including hem). In this row we added bust loops.

14th row: all loops are purl, yarn overs are knitted with crossed purl loops.

15th row: all loops are facial, make holes for the fastener along the edges, as described in the 7th row.

17th row: K 5 (including edge), close 4 loops, knit 13, close 4 loops, knit 5 at the end of the row, including edge.

Closed loops are designed for armholes. After knitting the 17th row, the work looks like this:

Now we have knitting divided into 3 parts: on the sides of the halves of the back, and in the middle - in front of the bodice of the dress. The working thread is at the left edge of the work. First, we knit half of the back with it, continuing to make holes along the edge, as before.

After knitting the sixth hole, we knit another row of purl loops, one row of front loops, and in the next purl row 4 we close the first loops for the neckline, and 2 on the remaining two loops for the shoulder we knit 2 more rows, after which we reshoot these loops on a safety pin , we break the thread.

We turn knitting to the wrong side, attach the thread on the right side of the central part and knit in front (14 loops). At the same time, I left the loops of the right side of the back on the working knitting needle, but you can also re-shoot them on a pin so that they slide off the knitting needle during work.

We knit up 6 rows. In the seventh row we knit 2 loops (they will then need to be re-shot onto a safety pin), then we close the loops for the neck and at the end of the row we also leave 2 loops for knitting. We knit 2 more rows of these loops.

Finished back and front.

Then we do this: we put the connected half of the backrest face to face on the front, we remove the loops of the back from the pin onto the knitting needle to the two loops of the front left on the knitting needle (we alternate them - the loop of the front, the loop of the back, the front, the back), and close the loops, while knitting along Purl 2 together. In this way, the shoulder seam made is almost invisible.

Again we turn the knitting to the wrong side, attach the thread and knit the second half of the back symmetrically to the first. We remove the two front shoulder loops from the pin, knit 2 rows, re-slip on the knitting needle with the back loops and close as described above to simultaneously sew on the shoulder.

In principle, the sleeveless dress is almost ready. You can carefully tuck in the threads and leave it sleeveless if you like this model.

Sleeves

And to knit more sleeves, you need to pick up the loops in a circle along the armhole on thin stocking needles No. 2 and knit the sleeves in a circle. I picked up 18 loops and distributed them on 3 knitting needles so that the joint between the two lower knitting needles was in the place where the seam is supposed to be at the sleeve, and the shoulder seam falls in the middle of the third knitting needle.