And now about my experiments with painting.
First, general considerations.
Wool for regular dyeing needs to be rewound into skeins. In my experience, it is better not to do more than 100 grams of skein. You need to tie it in several places (I do it in 4), and in a tricky way (I saw this method when I received silk from India - I’m sure that they did and do it with us, but I didn’t think of it myself):
to photo hosting →

I don't have a microwave, so for me painting is boiling in a bowl of dye. In our usual enameled bowl, as practice has shown, it is better not to put more than 200-250 grams of yarn, otherwise it is impossible to interfere normally and the coloring will certainly be uneven. I tried to paint a kilogram at once in 1 large tank - it turned out uneven, because it’s impossible to stir normally, so now I’ll make a section out of it. The yarn must first be soaked, shake well so that it gets wet, and leave for some more time (30 minutes), then shake again. The temperature of the water in which you soak and the water with the dye should be approximately the same, otherwise the wool may sit down (warm, but not hot). After the bowl of yarn is put on fire, you need to stir regularly, but very carefully and slowly, do not chat in any way - it falls off. I was convinced that even fluffy yarns can be dyed, the main thing is to gently stir and after dyeing let it cool in a natural way, again without talking (I once did such a stupid thing, as a result I spoiled the yarn - now it is more shaggy than it should have been) .

1. Yupi juice and zuko.
We have them, unfortunately, with sugar, so painting with them is not cheap. I dyed it with a mixture of strawberry and cherry zuko (both give a very similar color). We also have peach and orange (yellow and orange tones) for sale. Wool - extrafine merino roving with silk. It was a terrible dirty white-yellowish color. When I saw her, I was terribly upset (I bought it in an online store for a lot of money and there she was white in the photo). With her, in fact, my purposeful epic began to buy dyes and find out what and how to paint. Alas, the first pancake, of course, was lumpy - she sat down unevenly (especially a couple of skeins), which is why now she doesn’t look very good. It turned out like this (the colors in life are not quite the same, dimmer):
to photo hosting →
to photo hosting →

The technology is simple. Soak wool. In a bowl of water in which we will paint, add a few tablespoons of table vinegar (I 6 lila, or you can use the essence, with the appropriate dilution) and a few tablespoons of table salt (based on 100g per 1 kg of yarn). Dilute the juice in a mug and pour into the bowl as much as you need (this is determined empirically). Stir it all. Squeeze out the previously soaked wool and throw it into a basin with dye, immediately straighten it carefully and stir it there. Dyes from these juices are absorbed by wool instantly (partially immediately, in just warm water, the rest - when heated). We put the basin on the stove, stir regularly, bring to a boil, boil for 10 minutes or longer (in general, if the dye was not in excess, then the water turned white, and that's it). Usually they also write that at the end you need to add a little more vinegar, for better fixing. After that, remove the basin and leave to cool. Then the wool must be rinsed, wrung out and hung to dry.

2. American juice Kool Aid. The same as ours, only there is no sugar in it and the colors are more diverse. You can buy it on eBay. Here's what I got from that goat down with silk, which I wrote about above, and blueberry juice:
to photo hosting →
It took about 3/4 of a sachet for 200 g for such a coloring (a bag is 3.6 g).

3. Russian-made aniline dyes.
The technology is still the same. The only thing that needs to be dissolved very well and they are recommended to be filtered out (I did not do this).
Here is an example of what they produce from a light lilac Igloo 1857:
to photo hosting →

And this is a painted line-push KLIMT (white with dirty beige spots):
to photo hosting →

Yes, it should be added that the scarlet aniline dye for wool also dyed the cotton threads with which the wool was transported, although, it seems, it should not.

By richness of shades natural dyes there are no rivals. If you knit or weave tapestries, you should learn how to dye with natural dyes. This will help you create interesting, unique clothing patterns and unique color transitions in weaving. Vegetable dyes give such deep and soft tones that even at high intensity do not look flashy. Fabrics dyed in this way do not shed when washed, do not fade in the sun, do not harm health and do not spoil hands!

1. Basic conditions and rules for dyeing:

Dyeing is carried out in a well-ventilated area.

Do not use for dyeing dishes in which food is cooked. Copper, aluminum, iron utensils change the shade of the fiber dyed with vegetable dyes, so etching and dyeing must be carried out in enamel or glass utensils. Further, we will repeatedly refer to the concept - the modulus of the bath - M. The modulus of the bath is the ratio of the volume of the dye solution to the weight of the fabric being dyed. The most optimal for dyeing is a module equal to 30 or 40. This means that when dyeing or pickling 100 g of yarn, 3 or 4 liters of solution must be prepared. The container should be large enough so that the solution completely covers the yarn freely lying in it.

It is advisable to take rainwater or water softened with soda ash.

The wooden (plastic, glass) stick used to stir the material to be painted must be clean and smooth.

Fabric or yarn before dyeing must be well moistened with water.

2. Preparation of textile materials for dyeing:

The material to be dyed must have good wettability. The fabric, dyed without prior thorough preparation, gives, as experts say, "non-paint".

Fabrics made of natural raw silk before dyeing must be boiled for half an hour in a solution of baby soap with the addition of soda ash (Na2 CO3). For one liter of water - 3 g of soap, 0.25 g of soda, M = 30. After that, the silk is thoroughly washed in a hot (70 ° C) solution of the following composition: 0.5 g of calgon (sodium hexametophosphate), 0.5 ml of ammonia alcohol (30 percent), 1 liter of water. Then the silk is rinsed in warm water.

Cotton and linen fabrics and threads are also boiled before dyeing to improve wettability. For dyeing in light colors, harsh cellulose fabrics are bleached. Unbleached cotton or linen material is boiled for 1 hour before dyeing in this solution: for 1 liter of water, 2-3 g of washing soda and a few pieces (~ 5 g) laundry soap. In this case, the water should completely cover the yarn or fabric (3 liters of water per 100 g of material). After washing, the material is rinsed 2-3 times in warm water until the soap completely disappears, which interferes with uniform coloring.

Woolen yarn is wound into skeins of about 100 g each and loosely tied in three or four places with cotton or linen thread. Used for washing baby soap, rub it on a grater or finely cut into chips, then dissolve in a small amount of hot (60 ° C) water. The soapy solution is poured into warm water and the foam is whipped. In this water, the yarn is washed, slightly squeezing and turning the skeins. To prevent the wool from falling off, it does not need to be rubbed and twisted. The soap solution is usually changed several times until the water is clear. It is not necessary to make the washing solution too hot, because of this the wool darkens and collapses. Experience shows that synthetic detergents change the shade of the color, so it is better not to use them. Washed wool is thoroughly rinsed in running water, then a little table (9 per cent) vinegar is added to remove soap and then rinsed again.

3. Preparation of dye decoctions:

Dyes can be obtained from branches, leaves, fruits, peel, bark, roots of plants. Both fresh plants and dried ones are used. When stained with fresh plants, brighter and more intense tones are obtained, but usually less lightfast.

The chemical composition of a plant and its parts largely depends on its age, growth, place of growth, soil composition and weather conditions during the growing season. The shade of the dye also depends on the time of collection of plants. Leaves are harvested on June 7-10 (young leaves give more intense shades than mature leaves), flowers - just opened, bark - in the spring, when it is easily separated, roots and roots - either before the plant blooms, or in autumn.

Leaves, stems, roots, flowers, fruits, cones, bark are pre-soaked in soft cold water for 12 hours (from evening to morning, for example). For every 100 g of herbs take about 1 liter of water. After that, the plants in the same water are brought to a boil and kept on a very low heat, “languish”, but do not boil. Flowers and herbs "languish" for 30 minutes, bark, stems, walnut shells, roots - 2-4 hours.

It is not recommended to extract dyes from plants longer, as the color of the broth becomes browner. After extracting the dye, the decoction is poured into another bowl, straining it, and the plants are again filled with water to obtain a second decoction. Herbs and bark are “simmered” for about 30 minutes. Strain the second decoction into the same bowl as the first.

Then the so-called dye bath is prepared, that is, the required amount of softened water is added to the resulting broth at the rate of: about 4 liters of dye solution per 100 g of fabric (yarn) (bath module 40).

4. Preparation of mordant solutions:

As already noted, dyeing fabrics with vegetable dyes is not conceivable without treating the fiber with metal salts, which is called etching.

Metal salts traditionally used in dyeing are used as mordants: potassium alum, iron sulphate (oxide and ferrous), copper sulphate, zinc sulphate, potassium chromium alum, chromium peak (sodium or potassium), tin dichloride.

A solution of pickle is made at the rate of 10 g per 1 liter of water (one percent). Iron salts are always taken less - 1 kg per 1 liter.

Pickling is carried out in the same way as dyeing, with a modulus of M = 30. For 100 g of yarn, 3 liters of pickling solution are needed, 30 g of metal salt are dissolved in a small amount of hot water (60 ° C), filtered, poured into a dish for dyeing and adjusted solution volume up to 3 liters.
It is not recommended to wring the yarn during or after pickling, otherwise the color will be uneven.
There are also natural dressings, for example, natural formic acid, sauerkraut brine, salt, vinegar, birch ash.

Pretreatment:

Prepare a 1% mordant solution, put clean wet yarn into it and keep it at t = 60 °C for 25 minutes. Then the yarn is taken out of the solution, allowed to drain, transferred to the dye broth and “tormented” for 30 minutes at 90 ° C.

Simultaneous pickling:

The prepared mordant solution is poured into the dye decoction, clean wet yarn is dipped into it. "Tomyat" 30-40 minutes at 60°C.

Subsequent dressing:

First, the yarn is “tormented” in the dye broth for 30 minutes, then transferred to the prepared mordant solution and incubated for 25 minutes at 60°C.

Different etching methods affect the shade of the color. With pre-treatment, the shade of the yarn turns out to be darker, more intense.

Dyed yarn can be rinsed immediately after dyeing, or you can leave the yarn in the solution until completely cooled and then rinse in warm water with the addition of a small amount of table vinegar (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Then the yarn is lightly wrung out and hung on a stick. It is advisable to thread a second stick into the skeins, which, with its weight, pulls the yarn when it dries.

When dyed by plants, the protein fibers of silk and wool are better, more intensely dyed, and cotton and linen are weaker. To dye cotton and linen in intense colors, you need to make more concentrated dye solutions or repeat the dyeing several times.

It is advisable to do the entire dyeing procedure for a small test skein. If the resulting color does not suit you, you need to change the concentration of the decoction or mordant, take another mordant or try a different etching method, or change the dyeing temperature.

By experimenting with solutions of different saturations and different mordants, you can get a variety of shades of color.

5. Yarn dyeing in several colors:

Wind the yarn lightly into balls weighing less than 50 g and, dry, dip the balls into the dye solution. In this case, the dye should completely cover the balls. With this dyeing, the thread in the ball is obtained with a gradual transition of tone from dark to lighter. Until the yarn gets wet, it floats, so it should be pressed down with a lid from a smaller diameter pot.

If the yarn is dark and you want to get a lighter color - bleach with a gradual transition in tone, then rewind the yarn into a skein. Prepare soapy water. After hanging the skein over a stick, dip part of the skein into the soapy solution and “simmer” for 15-20 minutes. Then change the soapy water and, raising the end of the yarn in the water 5-10 cm higher, hold the yarn again for 15-20 minutes. Bleach until the thread is the shade you want.

Looks nice knitted item from multi-colored yarn. Wind the yarn into skeins of 100 g each and easily tie with cotton thread. Prepare the dye solution. Moisten 1/3 of the skein and dip into the dye. Throw the skein over the stick so that the dry end does not get into the dye. Having brightened one part, rinse the yarn and dry it. Then prepare a dye solution of a different color. Moisten 1/3 of the skein on the opposite side and repeat the dyeing process. Thus, the yarn will have three colors, counting the original.
You can dye the yarn any number of colors by decreasing the dye area as you increase the number of colors. Solutions for dyeing are prepared based on the weight of the part of the yarn to be dyed (2-3 liters of solution per 100 g of yarn).

Start your experiments, for example, with tansy. The coloring recipe is given for 100 g of yarn.

Tansy (eight shades from one decoction!)

Soak 150 g of tansy in 2 liters of cold water for 12 hours. Bring to a boil and "simmer" over low heat for 30-40 minutes. Strain. Cakes pour a small amount water. "To languish" 15 minutes. Strain. Combine both decoctions. Bring the amount of water to 3 liters (M = 30).

Divide 100 g of wool yarn into 8 small skeins. Each is easy to tie in 2-3 places with cotton thread. Dip the clean soaked yarn (all 8 skeins) into the tansy decoction. "To languish" 30 minutes.

Then prepare 1% solutions of the following dressings:
1. Potassium alum,
2. Copper sulfate,
3. Zinc sulfate,
4. Tin chloride,
5. Potassium chromium alum,
6. Potassium dichromate,
7. Iron sulfate (0.1 percent solution),
8. Iron ammonium alum (0.1 percent solution).

Etch one of the skeins in the first of the prepared solutions, that is, withstand 25 minutes at a temperature of 60 ° C. Pickle the next skein in the second solution, etc. Then rinse (you can add vinegar to revive the color).

Thus, any silk, woolen or cellulose fabrics or yarns can be dyed.

6. List of plants that can be used as dyes:

Yellow paints:

Voskovnik, a low shrub with large leaves, is common in the north of Russia, has several varieties known as wax berries, wax heather, etc .; the fruits have a waxy layer. Wax has a lot of coloring matter, giving a bright yellow color,

Bearberry - bear grapes, in appearance resembles lingonberries, mealy berries, grows in sandy places and in pine forests, you need to collect after the appearance of berries. Gives a yellow color.

Buckthorn - wolf berries, the coloring matter is in the bark; grows throughout Russia, has many local names: korushatnik, bear, prickly buckthorn, laxative, bonfire, Proskurin, etc. The bark of some types of buckthorn gives a yellow color when fresh, and brown when dry.

Birch - the coloring matter is contained in the leaves and young bark; leaves and bark are harvested in early summer; from the leaves a bright yellow color is obtained, from the bark - yellowish.

Cornflower cornflower - leaves dye silk and wool.

Basil - leaves dye wool,

Centaury - grass dyes wool.

One-berry - paints the canvas.

Wormwood - grass paints in straw and fawn color, with alum - in lemon color.

Bedstraw - flowers with the addition of alum are painted in dark yellow.

Barberry is a shrub. The coloring matter is obtained from the bark, roots and wood.

Zheltinnik - in Ukraine they call scompy, a coloring matter in leaves and young branches, they are harvested in August, dried, crushed and ground.

Blue colors:

Lycopodium club moss is a herbaceous plant; coloring matter in the stem of the plant.

Woad (blue, chenille, farbovnik) - grows in the temperate zone of Russia, the coloring matter is contained in the leaves.

Buckwheat - wild growing on the shores of the Caspian Sea. Dyestuff in leaves, thick of blue color(indigo).

Geranium forest - a coloring matter in flowers.

Blackberries - berries are painted in dark blue.

Blueberries - berries dye wool soaked in alum (1:10) purple.

Litmusnik - grows in the Crimea. Grass dyes wool purple, known to the French under the name "Tournesol".

meadow sage - the grass paints in dark blue.

Green paints:

Elderberry - not ripe berries are used, as for red paint, but elderberry leaves, which give a good green color.

Marsh horsetail, iron, squirrel tail - grows everywhere; the coloring matter in the stem, gives green color.

Sorrel - grows almost everywhere; coloring matter in the leaves.

Juniper - grows almost everywhere; coloring matter in berries.

Rue and blue iris flower - the juice from them, mixed together, gives a lasting green color.

Privet - berries dye wool in a dark green color.

Bird cherry - the inner bark turns green.

Poplar - the inner bark dyes the yarn green, the yarn must be pre-moistened with iron sulphate (1: 10).

Brown paints:

Lichens, torchovka, oak foot - grow almost everywhere, on the ground and stones. Lichen growing on stones gives a particularly strong brown color.

Black alder - common in temperate Russia, coloring matter in leaves, young branches and bark.

Dry buckthorn bark - gives a brown color,

Plum tree bark - gives a brown color.

Serpuha grass - dyes linen and silk fabrics.

Horse sorrel - its root, dug out in autumn, gives a brown color.

Red paints:

Buckthorn, wolfberries - the same as for obtaining yellow color; for red, not the bark is collected, but young branches and leaves before flowering.

Madder dyeing or speck - grows in the south, in the Crimea, Transcaucasia; the coloring matter in the root of the plant, which is dug up before flowering.

Elderberry is a shrub that grows almost everywhere; coloring matter in ripe berries.

Willow - bark, boiled in lye, dyes silk and wool.

Oregano - grass dyes wool.

Wild poppy - juice from flowers dyes silk, wool, linen, previously moistened in a solution of 2 hours of alum, 6 hours of vinegar and 6 hours of water.

Tern - bark, boiled with lye, dyes wool.

Privet - juice from berries mixed with ammonia or Glauber's salt.

Mahogany shavings fernambuco boil with the addition of 2 - 3% alum (or potash). Gives not only red, but also yellow, orange, purple, purple.

Gray colors:

Periwinkle - grass dyes wool in a dark gray color. Spruce - bark dyes wool.

Water lily - the root dyes cotton and linen.

Broom - the bark gives a dark gray color.

Bearberry - the leaves dye the wool in a light gray color.

Hoof - dyes wool in dark gray.

Good day everyone!

I want to offer you something like a master class of my painting.

Why paint it, you might ask. The stores are full of all sorts of things for every taste and budget. However, if you come to the store, then this one is not in the right quantity, then that one is not enough. It is much easier to buy unpainted and make it what you want and exactly that shade. In addition, you can make smooth color transitions and rainbows and anything.

Here I posted my painting experiments

Today I will tell you how I got the Surf coloring.

To begin with, about yarn for experiments.

I bought a package of Trinity Village. Is it pure wool. I must say right away that depending on the composition of the thread, the color will change. On wool, the paint is paler, or something.

I paint two skeins at once. I will knit socks from it, for example. By the way, here is an online survey on knitting socks with a toe.

If you are interested in how my yarn looks not only in skeins, but also in the product, you can just look))

About dishes. The dishes should be ONLY enameled or stainless steel and ONLY those from which you yourself will not eat later. Including spoons and forks for mixing, i.e. everything that will come into contact with the paint.

Now about the paint. The colors of the sea!!! You can use food coloring for eggs, there are acidic, active, for coloring in washing machine, in hot and cold water. This is all a separate issue. There is a lot of information on the Internet to choose from.

Girls, big request!!! Please do not write in the comments and in a personal message like: "What brand of dyes?", "Where did you get it?" and even such "Well, tell me a secret, I'm nobody, nobody!". I will not respond to such messages. In this article, I describe my coloring method, not dyes)))

For this dyeing, I use domestic wool dyes.

So, let's get started. I will show the process on ready-made yarn, that is, without water and paint, just technology. I do sectional coloring in long and short sections. To do this, I take a skein, turn the chair over and start winding the yarn around the legs in random order. If on the nearest two legs, then it will turn out to be short sections, if you make a big turn on all four, then long ones.

You get two loops. These loops must be tied up so that the threads do not float freely and are not tangled. We tie in several places, but not tight, but so that it just holds.

Now it all depends on what color I want to get more. I took blue, blue and turquoise. Poured about 2 liters of water. I put it on fire. I mixed blue and blue paints in a saucepan, I have a measuring spoon from nurofen, 1/4 of each paint, salt on the eye, about 3 spoons and put the yarn in a short loop into the saucepan.

My tail was lying in another pan nearby without water, just lying.))) I brought it to a temperature so that the finger was very hot and reduced the fire to a minimum. Sometimes interfered. So she stayed with me for half an hour. Pulled her out. Then I took turquoise, mixed it again in a saucepan and put the yarn completely.

Again interfered sometimes. After half an hour, she poured vinegar, I have 70%, just a little bit, otherwise the yarn will burn, brought it almost to a boil and lowered the fire again. So she stood for about 40 minutes. Then she turned off the gas and left to cool.

I remembered about the yarn already in the morning, took it out, rinsed it with baby powder, then with Lenore and hung it on the faucet in the bathroom to wrap around. The water was glass, I shook it and went to the balcony. It dries quickly, after 2 hours you can already wind it into balls. And start knitting!

Now neither things stain the skin, nor during washing the water does not turn blue.

I got the Autumn coloring using the same winding technology, only I took other paints. I will say right away that I got it by accident))) I didn’t count on such a color, but I really like it!

Here I had American dye Brown color. I mixed it again in a saucepan and put it in a short loop into it. There I added vinegar immediately, salt and a little liquid agent for dishes. The yarn ate this paint quickly, after a few minutes the water became almost transparent. I immediately put the rest of the yarn in a saucepan, and so it stood for about an hour over low heat. Then I washed it and hung it around.

When it was completely dry, I didn't like how it turned out. And since I already mixed another paint for another yarn, I decided to take a little bit from another pan, see what would happen))) The paint in the other pan was burgundy. This was our dye. This burgundy paint turned out to be heavily diluted. I put in all the pasta. Then I did everything, as for the first time with Surf.

And when it dried up, I was very impressed and ran to my friend to show off. She knits from me and took the yarn, said that you will still make up, and socks for my daughter)))

A little later I will write about my experiment with other colors.

On the agenda will be the Steel Rose and the Green Forest (which also turned out by the method of scientific poke))). I also have Lavender, but it is plain.

Yarn, however, there are already 3 skeins left)))

But, as one hero of the film said, our industry is doing well. So there are many experiments ahead.

If you have any questions, write, I will be happy to answer.)

I was lured by the idea of ​​dyeing yarn. I quickly looked through the Internet, found a master class on dyeing yarn in the microwave at the Fair of Masters. I found dyes for eggs in the store (by the way, in the summer I tried to find dyes for wool or cotton, at least techno-chemical, inexpensive - there is nothing, and food ones appear mainly by Easter).

Brief description of humble experience:

There was a skein of "Peruvian Alpaca" at home, I bought another one. With the help of the back of the crib, she wound it into a skein. At the same time, the baby and I sang about geese and the songs of the cat Leopold, so it was fun and provocative. The yarn was soaked, rinsed. At first, 3 colors were planned from the available ones: blue, blue-violet and turquoise. At the last moment, I decided to dilute this gloom with yellow.
Strictly following the instructions, she diluted the dye, poured it into jars, distributed and lowered the yarn.

Here the colors are messed up. The dye, as you can see, is less than half a jar. The transition was smoothed out, lowering it into one jar, then into another.
Then all this economy was put into the oven for 20 minutes, left to cool. When I took the yarn out of the jar, it turned out that the yarn had eaten all the dye except for turquoise, in three jars the water was almost transparent.
Rinse first in acetic water, then in plain water. Then I washed it twice in Domal to be sure. As if turquoise gave in for a long time, faded, but the color did not wash out, did not paint over the rest. The shower stall was also not damaged :))

Laid out to dry.
On dry it turned out that the border where the yarn was covered with dye was clearly visible.

The colors turned out very saturated, plus not at all what was expected. Above, for example, blue-violet.
And this is turquoise:

Either I have color cretinism, or paint manufacturers. However, it is for eggs, and eggs do not care whether they be green or turquoise. :))

In spam, it didn't look very good, to be honest:

Rewound into a ball - already more fun

Pretty good in the sample.

There was an article in Spring Faith about hand-dyed and simply sectional yarns, including an instruction on pooling. Decided to try it. On the sample, I counted the number of loops of each section, drove it through www.plannedpooling.com, sorted through the number of loops in a row, picked up beautiful pattern diamonds. Alas, the trick failed:

The pattern first goes as it should, and then it goes off. I counted the sings in sections of different rows: after all, hand-colored, then 17, then 23. I left the idea with pooling for purchased yarn.

For inspiration, you can look at the site hueloco.com - a young American hand-dyes yarn, there are video tutorials, you can see the result of her work or buy if you have an extra 30 bucks :))

Master classes on YouTube are mostly in English (several links in the previous post).
I liked the idea of ​​dyeing in ombre (look into the skein, dye, rewind, dye), the idea of ​​dyeing in long sections by knitting on the flank of the panel and orcing in the canvas. Well, coloring with chaotic dripping into the pan should also be tried :)

In general, I will work on the mistakes on Saturday, when my husband will be at work (otherwise he grumbled about witch rituals, a potion, the smell of boiled alpaca). I'll try to dilute the dye with more water to get more pastel colors. I will try to dye cotton with acrylic and silk.

P.S. After these experiments, I greatly respected the "Peruvian Alpaca". I used to like her, warm, fluffy. And it turns out that she is also indestructible: she withstood all the hardships, fluffed up even more.

If you are faced with the question of how to dye a nylon cord or thread, we will help you find a way out and tell you how to dye them. For painting nylon, a wide variety of dyes are often used, which are at hand, among them are food coloring, namely gouache, onion peel decoction, aniline paints, or watercolor paints.

Dyeing a nylon cord or thread with aniline dyes

Take aniline dye and add 1 tablespoon of salt and 1 tablespoon of vinegar essence to it. Painting time - 30 minutes.

Universal fabric dye

One bag of dye must be dissolved in warm water (2.5 liters), add a small pinch to the solution baking soda. After thoroughly mixing everything, filter the substance through cheesecloth. Use enamelware. After that, you can lower the thread that needs to be dyed into the solution, and heat it, but do not bring it to a boil, otherwise it will negatively affect the product, stir the solution periodically. After 40 minutes, add 30 grams of salt, and continue heating the solution for another 60 minutes. After that, the thread is dyed, it remains only to rinse well and dry.

In order to fix the resulting painting effect, it is necessary to prepare a special solution of 2.5 liters of hot water and 3 tablespoons of 25% vinegar, heat it to a temperature of 70 degrees, and place the thread in it for 30 minutes. After that, rinse the nylon product and you can be sure that the result of painting with a universal dye will be reliable.

Also, the nylon thread is successfully dyed with strong brewed tea, at a temperature of 45 degrees. Or a cool decoction of oak bark, which can be purchased at any pharmacy.

Painting with bituminous varnish

For this method painting you will need half a liter of bituminous varnish and rubber glue, as well as 10 liters of gasoline. In this solution, it is necessary to lower the thread for a short period of time, the time depends on the desired degree of coloring. After that, dry it and wash it in warm soapy water to get rid of the peculiar smell.