Wool can also be dyed at home, but for this you need to arm yourself with a certain set of items and special tools:

1. sheep wool (it must be bleached, combed and stretched);

3. table vinegar;

4. Multiple spray guns for different paints;

5. saucepan with a lid;

6. colander, measuring spoon;

7. thick newspaper;

8. polyethylene film.

When painting, follow the basic safety rules: do not give paint to children, do not inhale powder paint, do not use the dishes from which you plan to eat, be sure to wear rubber gloves while working with paint. Remember to follow the precautions that are usually written on the packaging with dyes.

Let's start coloring

1. We prepare a workplace. We cover the table with a two-centimeter layer of newspapers. All nearby objects that are not planned for painting are covered with newspapers. Plastic bags will be needed in order to lay the table on top of the newspapers. Painting will be carried out on a plastic film, in addition, subsequently it will be necessary to wrap the wool in it.

2. Wool is soaked for ten minutes in warm water. At this time, you need to dilute the powder dyes. To do this, pour warm water into disposable tableware, add the dye and stir it thoroughly using a disposable plastic spoon.

3. Dye-powder add in the volume, depending on what color of wool you want to achieve. To get a darker color, add more coloring pigment. For starters, you can try taking 0.5 teaspoon of each color. Using a funnel, pour the dye diluted in warm water into a spray bottle. In the spray bottle you need to add table vinegar - about half a cup. Do not worry about the fact that all components are measured "by eye" - the exact proportions are not important here. If the output is very little coloring liquid or its color is too saturated, add some warm water. You can close the spray bottle and thus dissolve the paint in it, or you can simply mix the contents of the spray bottle with a stick. Dilute the remaining colors in the same way.

4. Remove the wool from the basin, squeeze out excess water from it, straighten it and place it without gaps - with a snake. Spread the wool on the work surface you prepared in advance. Spray the paint with a spray gun over the entire surface of the wool. Dyes need to be sprayed until the wool is completely soaked through with them. Do not be alarmed if you see a small colored puddle under the coat - there is nothing to worry about here.

6. Of course, rolling this bag into a roll, you provoke the pouring of dyes from the wool. However, if your workplace has been equipped in accordance with the above recommendations, then all excess coloring liquid will be absorbed into a thick layer of newspapers.

7. Put the wool roll in a colander, and, accordingly, place the colander on a pot of boiling water. Wool should be steamed for about 20 minutes with the lid closed. After 20 minutes, turn off the stove, the wool should cool. Next, the already cooled wool should be rinsed in warm water until the water becomes clear, colorless.

If you are dyeing wool for the first time, then it is better to use only one color, and once you get the hang of it, you can safely mix colors. The best container for creating solid wool is a small silicone mold or plastic container. Lay the wool in the form so that the material fits completely into the container. Then mix 1 cup of water and 0.5 cup of vinegar and pour into the mold, then gently press the wool to the bottom of the mold with a spatula, completely immersing it in the solution, and leave for 30 minutes. After this time, add a glass of water at room temperature and 30 drops of dye to the container (it is convenient to use liquid dye for a soap base), stirring with a spatula, carefully distribute the dye. Follow this procedure carefully so as not to tangle the coat. Experiment with the amount of dye: the more dye, the richer the color of the coat. When the dye is completely absorbed and the wool acquires a uniform color, cover the mold with a lid and send it to the microwave for 5 minutes. Then wait for the mixture to cool to room temperature before opening the lid. Remove the wool from the mold and transfer to a large bowl or basin and rinse thoroughly with room temperature water. When the water is no longer stained with wool, the fibers are ready for drying, as they have completely absorbed the pigment. To dry, spread the wool on paper towels or polyethylene and leave to dry. Wool dries for a long time, so it is very convenient to leave the material to dry overnight.

If you want to dye wool in several colors at once, then you need to soak the material in warm water for about ten minutes. During this time, you can dilute the dyes. Use acid powder dye as it is ideal for dyeing wool. Dilute the dye in warm water - the brighter the color you want to get, the more add the coloring powder. When the dye has completely dissolved, pour the composition into a spray bottle (it is very convenient to dye the wool in several colors at once with this device). Add table vinegar there - the ratio of proportions is 50/50, shake thoroughly. Prepare the rest of the dyes in the same way. Usually, three colors of the same gamut are used for coloring, for example, blue, purple, pink - this helps to achieve a gradient effect. When the paint is ready, spread the wool on the cellophane and start spraying the paint from the spray gun, do this sequentially, mentally dividing the wool into three equal parts, each of which needs to be sprayed with a certain color. After the wool is well saturated with paint, take one edge of the cellophane and roll the material into a tight roll. Put the roll in plastic bag, which in turn must be simmered in a water bath for about 20 minutes. Rinse the cooled wool and lay it out to dry.

If you have a need to dye wool, other wool or yarn products, the following tips will help you.

Attention. The most natural color of wool is the color of the wool itself, all methods of dyeing or bleaching, especially chemical one way or another, harm the wool. Boiling and dyeing confuses the fibers making them stiff and more brittle. This is important if you want to dye, for example, a downy scarf. Naturally, dyeing with natural dyes is more preferable. If you are dyeing wool for the first time, be sure to test it on a small piece first.

Products made from natural goat down have long been dyed with natural dyes, using decoctions of herbs, berries, tree bark and other plant components. Listed below are a variety of plants that give their color. All dyes give one or another shade of dye, depending on the amount of dye in relation to the amount of wool. Those. the more dye there is, the brighter the color will turn out. Combination different colors give different shades. You can experiment endlessly. The color of the wool you get can be seen from the color of the water before adding the wool (the color of the wool will be lighter than the color of the water). You can remove the hair from the solution until the end of the procedure, if you think that saturation is enough for you. If the water after removing the wool has not become discolored, it can only be dyed in a lighter shade. Before you paint a large number of wool, down scarf or woolen be sure to conduct an experiment for example on a small amount of wool.

Red
- buckthorn (wolfberry): young leaves and branches are used before flowering;
- elder: ripe berries are used;
- oregano: the herb is used.

Yellow
- birch: bark (yellowish tint) and leaves ( bright color);
- wormwood: grass is used (the color comes out straw);
- poplar: buds are used;
- nettle: roots are used;
- buckthorn: fresh bark is used (dried gives brown shade);
- peel of an orange or lemon;
- carrots, turmeric (ground) and cumin (zira).

Brown
- oak: leaves and bark of the tree are used;
- mosses and lichens growing on stones;
- dried buckthorn bark;
- horse sorrel root dug out in autumn;
- basma;
- strong coffee.

orange pink a mixture of carrots, orange peel and one tablespoon of cinnamon will give color.

For red-brick gentle beets are useful for color, and for dark purple, red onion husks.

Blue
- blackberries;
- blueberries;
- meadow sage: grass is used;
- Ivan da Marya (flowers);
- quinoa seeds;
- red cabbage.

Green
- elderberry leaves;
- sorrel leaves;
- juniper berries;
- inner bark of bird cherry and poplar;
- spinach (you can add ground turmeric to it).

Gray
- periwinkle: grass is used (the color is dark gray);
- spruce bark;
- bearberry leaves (light gray color)

Black color give maple leaves.

Orange
- wild apple bark;
- leaves and stems of celandine.

golden brown
- dry bulb husks;
- henna;
- black tea (brewing).

Dyeing wool with natural dyes

Wool dyed with natural dyes does not lose its properties, and the color is bright and durable. In order to get a good coloring solution, you need to try a little: it is boiled several times. The dyed water is poured into a container where the product will be painted, and the remaining raw materials are again filled with water and boiled - and so on until all the color is boiled out.

For dyeing, wool must be boiled in the prepared solution over low heat for one to two hours, stirring constantly. Do not keep the wool on fire for too long, otherwise the fibers can become tangled and become coarser. When the wool has acquired the desired color, remove the container from the heat and let cool. Then you need to wash the product or yarn until it stops dyeing - and then dry it in the fresh air.

In order to achieve a more saturated color and additionally fix the shade, mordant can be added to the solution during the staining process. Mordants are special substances that enhance the durability of the dye on wool. Mortars make wool fibers less sensitive to light and moisture.

Mortars are natural and chemical. The former include tea leaves, mosses, acorns (these components contain a small amount of alum). A solution is prepared for dressing with natural substances: 50-100 grams of the desired plant is taken per 100 grams of wool and boiled over low heat under a lid for about 45 minutes. After the solution has cooled, wool is immersed in it. On low heat, the liquid is heated, but not brought to a boil, for another 45 minutes.

Chemical dressings are alum (an absolutely safe substance that can be bought at pharmacies), cream of tartar (it can be found in supermarkets) - a white powder obtained from grape acid after fermentation, copper sulfate (copper sulfate) and ferrous sulfate (iron sulfate) - sold in stores for summer residents, acetic acid. For chemical staining, the wool or dyed product is removed from the solution, where the stain is added, and then dipped back into the solution. It is very important to constantly stir the wool during the pickling process and turn it over in the solution - this will help to avoid spots.

Chemical dyeing of wool

For dyeing wool and products from it, chemical dyes are also used - aniline dyes. The method of preparing the solution and dyeing wool is indicated on the packaging with the substance. Need to remember a few important rules to help you color. Pay attention to the dishes in which you are going to dye wool: it should be voluminous so that the product or skein of wool lies freely there. It is best to choose an enameled container. Before dyeing, it is important to wet the wool thoroughly, and it should be completely immersed in the dye solution so that even a small corner does not rise above the surface of the solution.

The solution is prepared as follows. In half a liter of boiling water, the powder from the bag dissolves, mixes well and settles and cools for some time. After that, you need to strain the mixture through 2-3 layers of gauze and pour it into a container for staining (the water temperature should not be higher than room temperature). Immerse six in the resulting solution and bring it to a boil. The whole procedure - from the moment the product is immersed in the dye solution and until the end of painting - should not take more than 40 minutes. Wool or your woolen product must be constantly stirred in the solution, as it will float to the top. Wool absorbs the dye and the water in which the product or skein of wool is located will gradually begin to brighten - this sure sign that the staining process is proceeding correctly. To speed up the process, you can add a little vinegar to the water (for example, to dye 500 grams of wool, half a glass of vinegar takes half a bucket of solution). One part of the vinegar must be poured at the beginning of staining, the second - at the end. If you dye wool in light colors, add vinegar only 25 minutes after the solution boils. We take out the wool, dyed in the desired shade, from the solution, let it drain well and cool. Then you need to rinse it properly in several waters, adding vinegar to the last.

If you want to change the color of woolen fabric or yarn, felting material or fur, it is worth figuring out how to dye wool. Using natural or chemical dyes, it is easy to achieve the desired result.

How to quickly dye wool?

Any methods of color change, both natural dyes and chemical ones, degrade the quality of the fiber. Under the action of boiling, it becomes hard, brittle and tangled. If you cannot do without the procedure, give preference to natural dyes.

Knowing how to dye wool, you will not spend a lot of time and effort on it.

To achieve a good result, follow the recommendations:

• always test the coloring composition on a small and inconspicuous piece of fabric first;
• if you are performing the operation for the first time, do not experiment - give preference to one-color staining;
• to get a brighter color, increase the amount of dye;
• to fix the shade and give brightness, add a little mordant to the composition;
• after the procedure, comb the coat with a carder or dog comb.

Natural dyes can be used to obtain different colors. So, elderberry and wolfberry give a red tint, green - spinach and juniper, blue - blueberries and blackberries, brick - onion peel, brown - basma, yellow - wormwood and nettle. By experimenting with these substances, you can get interesting and unusual color schemes.

Algorithm for dyeing wool with natural means

If you are using natural remedy, prepare the solution. Place the dye product you are using in water, bring to a boil and wait for it to color. Drain the liquid into the container where the procedure will take place, and put the saucepan back on the fire. Repeat this operation until the water is completely colorless.

A LITTLE FROM HISTORY

In terms of richness of shades, natural dyes have no rivals. If you knit or weave tapestries, you should learn how to dye with natural dyes. This will help you create interesting, unique clothing patterns and unique color transitions in weaving. Vegetable dyes give such deep and soft tones that even at high intensity do not look flashy. Fabrics dyed in this way do not shed when washed, do not fade in the sun, do not harm health and do not spoil hands!

The dyeing of yarn or fabrics with natural organic dyes, which are found in plants or in certain types of insects and marine animals, has its origins in ancient times. From all the diversity of the plant world, the practice of dyeing over the centuries selected those dye plants that ensured the highest quality, durability and beauty of color.

The range of natural dyes that give a strong red and blue color, which were considered precious at all times, is small. The best in beauty and durability were two red dyes of animal origin: purple, extracted from Mediterranean molluscs until the 19th century, and carmine, which was extracted from insects of two different types- mealybug in Europe and Asia and cochineal in South America.

The most popular red vegetable dye, not inferior in strength to carmine, was krapp, which was extracted from the roots of madder dye.

The most common dye of blue color- indigo, also characterized by a special color fastness, was the only one of its kind. Indigo was obtained from a plant growing in countries with a warm climate - India, Southeast Asia. Other indigo-bearing plants from more northern latitudes did not give such an intense color, so they could not compete with indigo. Until the end of the 19th century, indigo was the only reliable blue dye for textile fibers.

Of the dyes of other colors, the favorite ones were bright yellow, which were extracted from the tropical turmeric plant and barberry roots.

Such bright and durable dyes were used to make precious fabrics, the consumers of which were only noble people.

In addition, there were many yellowish and brown dyes of various shades, which were obtained in each country from local raw materials - the roots and bark of plants of various types. These dyes were the most affordable, and therefore brown brown and soft yellow tones were considered the colors of the poor.

Natural natural dyes were used on an industrial scale until the 60s - 70s of the nineteenth century. Only the invention of aniline dyes finally supplanted the old methods of dyeing. It is interesting that at this time artificial dyes spread throughout the East. Neither the law of the Persian government, which forbade their import, nor the orders to stop work in those factories where they were used, could prevent this. Cruel punishment- to cut off the right hand of every dyer who resorted to chemistry - was soon forgotten, and after the First World War, chemical dyes were already in common use. However, ancient methods are preserved at the present time in carpet weaving and in the development of other art products manually.

Natural dyes for textile fibers are extracted from dried natural raw materials: bark, roots, wood, leaves, fruits, insects - by boiling them in water. The only exception is the indigo blue dye, which does not dissolve in water.

Most of the dyes contained in natural raw materials require the treatment of fabric or yarn with salts of various metals, mainly aluminum, copper, chromium, iron and tin, for a strong connection with the fiber. Salts of these metals are well absorbed by textile materials from aqueous solutions and, when dyed, combine with dyes to form strong color compounds of different shades on the fibers, called varnishes.

The application of metal salts to textile fibers is called etching in the dyeing technique, and metal salts are called mordants.

Dyeing with water-insoluble indigo has a special technology and is called vat dyeing. The essence of vat dyeing lies in the fact that indigo in an alkaline bath in the presence of reducing agents passes into a soluble form called a leucompound. In a light yellow alkaline solution of a leuco compound - a cube - a fabric or yarn is immersed, which is then hung in air, where it turns from yellow-greenish to blue, due to the oxidation of the leuco compound with atmospheric oxygen. When oxidized, the leuco compound turns on the fiber into the original insoluble blue dye - indigo.

Green tones were obtained in antiquity by dyeing indigo fabric or yarn blue or blue, and then with a yellow dye extracted from plants. In the same way, purple and violet tones were obtained from the coloring of indigo, dyeing blue fabrics red.

BASIC CONDITIONS AND RULES FOR DYING

1. Dyeing is carried out in a well-ventilated area.

2. Do not use for dyeing dishes in which food is cooked. Copper, aluminum, iron utensils change the shade of the fiber dyed with vegetable dyes, so etching and dyeing must be carried out in enamelled or glass crockery. Further, we will repeatedly refer to the concept - the modulus of the bath - M. The modulus of the bath is the ratio of the volume of the dye solution to the weight of the fabric being dyed. The most optimal for dyeing is a module equal to 30 or 40. This means that when dyeing or pickling 100 g of yarn, 3 or 4 liters of solution must be prepared. The container should be large enough so that the solution completely covers the yarn freely lying in it.

3. It is advisable to take rainwater or water softened with soda ash.

4. The wooden (plastic, glass) stick used to stir the material to be painted must be clean and smooth.

5. Fabric or yarn must be well moistened with water before dyeing.

PREPARATION OF TEXTILE MATERIALS FOR DYING

The material to be dyed must have good wettability. The fabric, dyed without prior thorough preparation, gives, as experts say, "non-paint".

Raw silk fabrics before dyeing, it is necessary to boil for half an hour in a solution of baby soap with the addition of soda ash (Na₂CO₃). For one liter of water - 3 g of soap, 0.25 g of soda, M = 30. After that, the silk is thoroughly washed in a hot (70 "C) solution of the following composition: 0.5 g of calgon (sodium hexametophosphate), 0.5 ml of ammonia alcohol (30 percent), 1 liter of water.Then the silk is rinsed in warm water.

Cotton and linen fabrics and threads also boiled before staining to improve wettability. For dyeing in light colors, harsh cellulose fabrics are bleached. Unbleached cotton or linen material is boiled for 1 hour before dyeing in this solution: for 1 liter of water, 2-3 g of washing soda and a few pieces (≈ 5 g) laundry soap. In this case, the water should completely cover the yarn or fabric (3 liters of water per 100 g of material). After washing, the material is rinsed 2-3 times in warm water until the soap disappears completely, which interferes with uniform coloring.

wool yarn they are wound into skeins of about 100 g each and loosely tied in three or four places with cotton or linen thread. Used for washing baby soap, rub it on a grater or finely cut it into shavings, then dissolve it in a small amount of hot (60 "C) water. The soap solution is poured into warm water and foam is whipped. Yarn is washed in this water, wringing it out slightly and turning the skeins. So that the wool does not become matted , it does not need to be rubbed and twisted.The soap solution is usually changed several times until the water is clear.Do not make the washing solution too hot, this darkens the wool and collapses.As experience shows, synthetic detergents change the shade of the color, so it is better not to use them. Washed wool is thoroughly rinsed in running water, then a little table (9 per cent) vinegar is added to remove soap and then rinsed again.

PREPARATION OF DYING DECIONS

Dyes can be obtained from branches, leaves, fruits, peel, bark, roots of plants. Both fresh plants and dried ones are used. When stained with fresh plants, brighter and more intense tones are obtained, but usually less lightfast.

The chemical composition of a plant and its parts largely depends on its age, growth, place of growth, soil composition and weather conditions during the growing season.

The shade of the dye also depends on the time of collection of plants. Leaves are harvested on June 7 - 10 (young leaves give more intense shades than mature leaves), flowers - just opened, bark - in the spring, when it is easily separated, roots and roots - either before the plant blooms, or in autumn.

Leaves, stems, roots, flowers, fruits. cones, the bark is pre-soaked in soft cold water for 12 hours (from evening to morning, for example). For every 100 g of herbs take about 1 liter of water. After that, the plants in the same water are brought to a boil and kept on a very low heat, “languish”, but do not boil. Flowers and herbs "languish" for 30 minutes, bark, stems, nut shells, roots - 2 - 4 hours.

It is not recommended to extract dyes from plants longer, as the color of the broth becomes browner. After extracting the dye, the decoction is poured into another bowl, straining it, and the plants are again filled with water to obtain a second decoction. Herbs and bark are “simmered” for about 30 minutes. Strain the second decoction into the same bowl as the first.

Then the so-called dye bath is prepared, that is, the required amount of softened water is added to the resulting broth from the calculation. for 100 g of fabric (yarn) about 4 liters of dye solution (bath module 40).

PREPARATION OF SOLUTIONS

As already noted, dyeing fabrics with vegetable dyes is not conceivable without treating the fiber with metal salts, which is called etching.

Metal salts traditionally used in dyeing are used as mordants: potassium alum, iron sulphate (oxide and ferrous), copper sulphate, zinc sulphate, potassium chromium alum, chromium peak (sodium or potassium), tin dichloride.

A solution of pickle is made at the rate of 10 g per 1 liter of water (one percent). Iron salts are always taken less - 1 g per 1 liter. Pickling is carried out in the same way as dyeing, with a modulus of M = 30. For 100 g of yarn, 3 liters of pickling solution are needed, 30 g of metal salt are dissolved in a small amount of hot water (60 ° C), filtered, poured into a dish for dyeing and adjusted solution volume up to 3 liters.

It is not recommended to wring the yarn during or after pickling, otherwise the color will be uneven.

There are also natural dressings, for example, natural formic acid, sauerkraut brine, salt, vinegar, birch ash.

1. Pretreatment

A one percent solution of mordant is prepared, clean wet yarn is dipped into it and kept at t = 60 C for 25 minutes. Then the yarn is taken out of the solution, allowed to drain, transferred to the dye decoction and “tormented” for 30 minutes at 90°C.

2. Simultaneous pickling

The prepared mordant solution is poured into the dye decoction, clean wet yarn is dipped into it. "Tomyat" 30 - 40 minutes at 60 ° C.

3. Post-treatment

First, the yarn is “tormented” in the dye broth for 30 minutes, then transferred to the prepared mordant solution and incubated for 25 minutes at 60°C.

Different etching methods affect the shade of the color. With pre-treatment, the shade of the yarn turns out to be darker, more intense.

Dyed yarn can be rinsed immediately after dyeing, or you can leave the yarn in the solution until completely cooled and then rinse in warm water with the addition of a small amount of table vinegar (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Then the yarn is lightly wrung out and hung on a stick. It is advisable to thread a second stick into the skeins, which, with its weight, pulls the yarn when it dries.

When dyed by plants, the protein fibers of silk and wool are better, more intensely dyed, and cotton and linen are weaker. To dye cotton and linen in intense colors, you need to make more concentrated dye solutions or repeat the dyeing several times.

It is advisable to do the entire dyeing procedure for a small test skein. If the resulting color does not suit you, you need to change the concentration of the decoction or mordant, take a different mordant or try a different etching method, or change the dyeing temperature.

By experimenting with solutions of different saturations and different mordants, you can get a variety of shades of color.

SUMMARY OF PLANTS THAT CAN BE USED AS DYES

Coloring matter yellow color contain:

Barberry (bark, roots, wood), birch (leaves and young bark), cornflower (stems and leaves), heather, wolfberry (bark), pomegranate (peel), oak (bark, acorns), spruce (cones), stinging nettle , buckthorn (fresh bark and branches), linden (fallen leaves), onion (husk), walnut (shell), tansy, wormwood, rhubarb (roots), chamomile (flowers), bearberry (whole plant), yarrow , tea, string.

Coloring matter green color contain:

Ledum, elderberry (shrub), heather (leaves and berries), St. John's wort, stinging nettle, juniper (berries), horsetail (stems), poplar (bark, branches, leaves), bird cherry (bark, branches), sorrel (leaves) .

Coloring matter of blue color contain:

Basma, woad (leaves), cornflower (flower petals), buckwheat (leaves), blackberry (berries), litmus, club moss (stems), blueberries (berries), sage (stems and leaves).

Coloring matter Brown color contain:

Cherry (branches, leaves), oak (bark, acorns), horse sorrel (root dug in autumn), buckthorn (dry bark), lichen, alder (leaves, bark), onion(husk), plum (branches, leaves).

Coloring matter Red contain:

Elder grass (ripe berries), wolfberry (ripe berries), oregano (extracts), St. poppy (flowers), madder dye, aspen (fallen leaves), bedstraw.

Coloring matter gray color contain:

Ledum, oak (bark), spruce (cones), walnut (shell), burdock (roots).

YARN DYING IN MULTIPLE COLORS

Wind the yarn lightly into balls weighing less than 50 g and, dry, dip the balls into the dye solution. In this case, the dye should completely cover the balls. With this dyeing, the thread in the ball is obtained with a gradual transition of tone from dark to lighter. Until the yarn gets wet, it floats, so it should be pressed down with a lid from a smaller diameter pot.

If the yarn is dark and you want to get a lighter color - bleach with a gradual transition of tone, then rewind the yarn into a skein. Prepare soapy water. After hanging the skein over a stick, dip part of the skein into the soapy solution and "simmer" for 15 - 20 minutes. Then change the soapy water and, raising the end of the yarn in the water by 5 - 10 cm, hold the yarn again for 15 - 20 minutes. Bleach until the thread is the shade you want.

Looks nice knitted item from multi-colored yarn. Wind the yarn into skeins of 100 g each and easily tie with cotton thread. Prepare the dye solution. Moisten 1/3 of the skein and dip into the dye. Throw the skein over the stick so that the dry end does not get into the dye. After dyeing one part, rinse the yarn and dry it. Then prepare a dye solution of a different color. Moisten 1/3 of the skein on the opposite side and repeat the dyeing process. Thus, the yarn will have three colors, counting the original.

You can dye the yarn any number of colors by decreasing the dye area as you increase the number of colors. Solutions for dyeing are prepared based on the weight of the dyed part of the yarn (2-3 liters of solution per 100 g of yarn).

Start your experiments, for example, with tansy. The coloring recipe is given for 100 g of yarn. Tansy (eight shades from one decoction!)

Soak 150 g of tansy in 2 liters of cold water for 12 hours. Bring to a boil and "simmer" over low heat for 30 - 40 minutes. Strain. Cakes pour a small amount water. "To languish" 15 minutes. Strain. Combine both decoctions. Bring the amount of water to 3 liters (M = 30).

Divide 100 g wool yarn for 8 small pasm. Each is easy to tie in 2 - 3 places with cotton thread. Dip the clean soaked yarn (all 8 skeins) into the tansy decoction. "To languish" 30 minutes.

Then prepare 1% solutions of the following dressings:

1. Potassium alum,

2. Copper sulfate,

3. Zinc sulfate,

4. Tin chloride,

5. Potassium chromium alum,

6. Potassium dichromate,

7. Iron sulfate (0.1% solution),

8. Iron ammonium alum (0.1 percent solution).

Etch one of the skeins in the first of the prepared solutions, that is, withstand 25 minutes at a temperature of 60 ° C. Pickle the next skein in the second solution, etc. Then rinse (you can add vinegar to revive the color).

Any silk, woolen or cellulose fabrics or yarns can be dyed in this way.

The color illustrations show samples obtained in this way of dyeing.

Any thing from frequent use can change its qualities over time, especially when it comes to color. Clothing can fade, rub, stains appear on it. It also happens with woolen things, for example, sweaters or jackets. buy really good product from natural high-quality wool is quite difficult, since not everyone will be able to afford the price of such clothes. But woolen clothing is practical (warm, soft and cozy), and few of us deny ourselves such a pleasure.

If it’s completely unbearable to part with your favorite thing, you can independently bring the product into proper shape. One such way is to re-dye the sweater. At home, you should use special aniline dyes for yarn or natural dyes, that is, decoctions from the bark of trees, leaves, fruits, flowers, etc.

Dyeing a sweater with aniline dye

One of the most popular ways to restore your favorite little thing to its proper look is to use aniline dye. You can additionally learn about the correctness of your choice from the seller, and choose a really suitable tool. Usually the client selects a shade identical to the product or a color close to it.

How to measure the required dose? First you need to determine the weight of the product in a dry state. If you intend to radically change the color of the sweater, you must first bleach it with Persol. True, such an impact can adversely affect the general condition of the product, since woolen things are not very fond of radical methods of influencing the fibers.

What should be done next? Place the sweater in a bowl of warm water and prepare the dye according to package directions. If you want to give things a more saturated shade, the dosage of the substance can be increased. Add the dye to an enameled container (for example, a deep saucepan), transfer the wet sweater there and boil on the stove. Boiling should be carried out on low heat, constantly turning and stirring the sweater. After 20 minutes of such actions, remove the product from the container, dilute kitchen salt in a bowl with the remaining liquid in proportions of 50 g of crystals per 2 liters of solution, lower the item there again and boil for another 20 minutes.

After turning off the stove, do not remove the sweater from the dish until the dye has completely cooled. Then it needs to be squeezed out, and then rinsed several times in cold water. At the last rinse, a few milliliters of table vinegar are added to the basin (for the final fixing of the paint). When all these steps are completed, gently wring out the sweater, getting rid of excess liquid with a towel, spread the product on a flat surface and leave to dry completely. To prevent the thing from acquiring an unpleasant odor, it needs to be turned over occasionally.

How to dye a sweater with natural dye

To use natural dyes, you first need to prepare a decoction. Crushed plants are boiled in soft water, and then allowed to brew. The next step is this: pour the product you want to color with broth and simmer for about an hour over low heat. After the boiling time has elapsed, leave the sweater in the solution until it cools completely. Then squeeze and rinse in clean cold water (as described above).

Again, you can make a sweater rich black or repaint it from a different color using ordinary alcohol wood stain. To begin with, the product must be washed and rinsed well. We spread the clothes prepared for processing on a flat surface. Getting ready to apply the product: take rubber gloves, a piece of foam rubber and an alcohol substance. The sweater must be thoroughly soaked with stain on both sides. After an hour and a half, the product should be rinsed in running water, squeezed and soaked in a solution of vinegar (200 grams of the substance per 10 liters of water). After 60 minutes of soaking, wring out the product again. Be sure to rinse the sweater several times and dry thoroughly.

Remember that when using any of these dyeing methods, there is a risk of hopelessly ruining the thing, so try them only on those sweaters that, if anything, you won’t be sorry to throw away.