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How easy it is to sew a sleeping bag. Do-it-yourself hut and sleeping bag: master classes

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Now there are many types and types of sleeping bags on sale, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. In the manufacture of sleeping bags, the following requirements should be observed: light weight and good heat retention, comfort, the possibility of ventilation and drying, ease of transportation. They are answered by multi-seat double (two-layer) sleeping bags.

Comfort depends on the size of the bag. Previously, in pursuit of weight loss, they tried to minimize the size of the bag and sew it at the rate of 40 cm per person. Naturally, in such sleeping bags, participants could only sleep on their side. Practice has led to a sound recommendation to increase the width of the bag at the shoulders to 60-65 cm per person.

A sleeping bag made up of two also contributes to better heat retention due to the air gap between them. In addition, its halves can be quilted, as long as the stitching lines of the two halves do not line up. It is more convenient to transport such sleeping bags in two backpacks; they are quickly dried or ventilated even when traveling during the polar night. These bags play an important role in extreme situations: half of the bag will allow you to organize an overnight stay for those who have it, or when the group had to split up.

Double sleeping bags can be sewn from thin nylon. As a heater, it is best to use a synthetic winterizer (nylon wool in the form of batting): it does not require partitions, but is only stitched in several places along the length and width.

A multi-seat two-layer sleeping bag is sewn in the following sequence: cut eight panels according to the sizes indicated in the figure, two of which are sheathed with calendered nylon or bologna on one side and at the legs; lay 2-3 layers of insulation between two panels and quilt in 20-30 cm; sew the blankets together so that two layers form on the sides; sew a strip at least 30 cm wide in the legs - then during sleep the feet can be positioned vertically.

When traveling without a stove or on particularly frosty nights, to protect the head from cold air, it is necessary to sew a nylon cloth to the upper edge of the upper half of the sleeping bag (the bike is moistened and does not dry well) so that you can cover your face and press the cloth with your head. You can sew a long bag of light nylon to the bottom of the sleeping bag for things put under your head.

When using insulation in the form of cotton wool (nitron), you can use the proven method of pocket sleeping bags, when partitions are sewn between the panels. Some tourists recommend spreading the nitron on a nylon cloth in the desired layer and through special paper(you can also use a regular newspaper) stitch it together with the material, tear off the paper and connect two such layers with insulation to each other, but the stitching layers should not match.

A travel sleeping bag is a necessity, not a whim. He is able to keep warm human body even at very low temperatures, but due to the fact that modern sleeping bags use expensive insulation and materials, buying this accessory can cost a pretty penny. The only option to save your own money is to make a sleeping bag with your own hands.

Materials for making a sleeping bag

To sew a sleeping bag, you need three “ingredients”: top material, lining and insulation. As a top, it is desirable to use heavy-duty nylons or polyesters, for example, RipStop or calendered nylon. The lining is best sewn from thick cotton (percale, teak), or from soft fleece. But it is more difficult to choose a heater, since there are already quite a lot of its varieties.

The most effective and practical insulation is made of fluff, and exclusively from the fluff of waterfowl - duck, goose, eider. Chicken down is not suitable for these purposes, because when wet it dries for quite a long time, and its smell is not pleasant. An extreme downy sleeping bag, of course, great option for frosts, but there is not always money to buy fluff. In this case, you can use synthetic fillers, such as nitron, synthetic winterizer. Sleeping bag made of synthetic fillings is light, warm and comfortable.

Tramp sleeping bags are examples of synthetic-filled sleeping bags. The quilt-shaped model is made of siliconized holofiber, capable of retaining heat even in humid environments. - option for more severe conditions. You can use such a sleeping bag even at -10 degrees. The insulation is still the same holofiber, but the top coating is high-strength nylon, which protects against damage and moisture. The model is lightweight and anatomically shaped. The material of the insulating layer is Extrafil Q7 - the so-called artificial down, the top material is polyester, the middle layer is nylon.

The shape and size of the sleeping bag

If you decide to sew a sleeping bag with your own hands, then you should first choose its shape. The most popular forms are rectangular, shortened, cocoon-shaped. The optimal width of the sleeping bag is 75-90 cm, but the length is calculated individually depending on your height.

How to sew a sleeping bag with your own hands - sewing methods

It doesn't matter what kind of bag you will be sewing for winter, summer, double or single person, it is important to choose the right sewing method. There are three of them in total. The first method involves the most minimal consumption of fabric, however, it is also the most time-consuming, since here you have to quilt all three layers in turn. In the second method, the quilting fabric is sewn first to the outer, and then to the inner material. The third method is the easiest and it is most often used for self-tailoring of sleeping bags. With this method, two bags are sewn - inner and outer, after which they are inserted into each other and attached along the neck.

To select the type of sleeping bag, you can use. Here you can choose and , and , and . After the type of sleeping bag is selected, you can create a pattern on tracing paper or graph paper. The standard scheme for sewing a sleeping bag looks like this:

  • details of the outer and inner covers are cut out;
  • stitching elements are cut out;
  • quilting is attached to the outer and inner covers;
  • compartments for insulation are sewn up on one side, stuffed with padding polyester, down or other insulation and sewn up;
  • inner and outer bags are sewn together;
  • the upper edge of the sleeping bag is sewn with a ribbon through which a pull cord is threaded.

An essential attribute of any hiking trip. With a light weight, it should not only be light and comfortable, but also stay warm despite the cool temperature at night.

Why is the sleeping bag warm?

A sleeping bag retains heat by retaining it in a layer of non-circulating air. This air is heated by the heat of the human body, and the sleeping bag creates a barrier to cold air. environment. The smaller the volume inside the sleeping bag, the faster you can warm up, and the longer the heat will be retained. A camping sleeping bag is more spacious, but retains much less heat and cools down faster. Currently on the market there are huge selection sleeping bags of different manufacturers, shapes and models. Some of them have comfort temperatures down to -70 degrees. But if you need a sleeping bag not for making professional ascents, but for relaxing in the nearby forest with a pleasant company, then you can sew a sleeping bag yourself.

How to sew a sleeping bag?

The most common forms of sleeping bags are cocoon-shaped, rectangular and shortened. Cropped sleeping bags are used in combination with a jacket and are equipped with straps so that the sleeping bag does not slip during sleep. The optimal width of the sleeping bag is from 75 to 90 cm, it will be quite comfortable to sleep in this. The length of the sleeping bag is calculated in each case individually, depending on which model you are going to sew. A sleeping bag-blanket is quite simple to manufacture. The wrong side of the cloth must be drawn in parallel lines with a gap of 14-18 centimeters between them (at your discretion). According to the markup, it is necessary to stitch ribbons 6-8 centimeters wide, then sew the second panel along the cut line, and then sew the ribbons along the markup. After that, the tapes along the edge must be cut so that it is easy to tuck the sections of the canvases inward. Slices must be tucked and stitched with a seam. The pattern of a tourist backpack is also very simple, you can find it ready-made or make it yourself.

What is the best filler to use?

Through the unstitched part, it is necessary to fill the sleeping bag with synthetic filler or down, and then stitch it. It should be borne in mind that if you fill the sleeping bag with down, then it should be possible to dry it during the day, as it easily picks up moisture from the environment. It is better to use synthetic fillers, which dry much faster and do not absorb moisture as much. The zipper is 270 cm long and can be adjusted along the edge of the sleeping bag. We wrap the edge of the sleeping bag with tape, while its ends must be tucked. It is desirable to insert a lace into the edging. The sleeping bag is ready. This is the simplest design of a sleeping bag, which will be quite comfortable in hiking trips low complexity. For such a trip, you can also sew a backpack, without which it is impossible to go on a trip.

I propose to make sleeping blankets for relaxation, which can be used outdoors, in the country and even at home during the absence of heating.

You will need: for 2 bags 90 cm wide: 2 detachable zippers (180 cm and 75 cm) 2 magnetic buttons raincoat fabric Tafeta 6.2x1.45 m shervisin (density 200 g/m) 4.2x2.2 m 7 m slings wide 20 mm 8 three-slotted buckles lining fabric threads nylon tips retainers cord.

Warm sleeping bag

From the raincoat fabric we cut out a rectangle 180x206 cm (I got 2 parts, because the width of the fabric is 145 cm). We cut out the same details from the lining and wool seal.

We cut the seal and lining, laying parallel lines along the width of the workpiece at a distance of 50 cm.

We sew zippers to the part of raincoat fabric. First, we sew in a 75 cm long zipper: unfasten it, apply it to the middle of the lower edge and sew both zipper tapes from the center to the edges of the workpiece, not reaching the corners of the part about 5-7 cm. reaching the end.

We fold the quilted lining and top fabric right sides inward, combine the corners and stitch at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge on three sides. We cut the insulation in the corners and turn the product through the non-sewn edge.

We install magnetic buttons in the corners (photo 1). In the future, they will help to combine two sleeping bags when fastening.

Lay out the workpiece and align the top. The length of the zipper is such that the sleeping bag does not close to the edge of the top by 12 cm. We bend the upper unsewn cut by 2 cm and stitch it in a zigzag, forming a drawstring (photo 2). We insert a lace into it, install clamps and tips. We sew the second sleeping bag in the same way.

Reliable protection

From the remnants of the upper fabric we sew covers for bags. For each, we cut out one square with sides of 80 cm. We bend one cut and stitch it - we get a drawstring for a lace. Then we sew the blanks along the side and bottom sections. For the volume of the bottom we draw off the corners (photo 3, 4). We insert the cord, retainer, tips and stack the bags.

Compact storage

Compression straps (a system of straps with buckles that allows you to tighten the sleeping bag and reduce its volume) are very space-saving in a small trunk of a small car or backpack. For each of the ties we cut out 2 squares (25x25 cm). We bend and stitch all the sections. We attach slings 65 cm long to two of them (lower parts) in the corners. In the 2 remaining squares, we cut holes in the middle (they are needed so that air can escape more easily when tightening the sleeping bag). We sew slings (16 cm each) with buckles at the corners, and a handle on top (photo 5, c) The screed is ready (photo 7) - you can go fishing or hiking.

* Shervisin - bulk non-woven insulation made of sheep wool and highly crimped hollow polyester fiber, has both insulating and healing properties: perfectly absorbs moisture, allows the body to breathe and neutralizes harmful substances that are released with sweat.