Having beautiful and healthy hair is not only a natural desire of every person, but also a requirement of modern fashion. Hair can be thick or thin, thin or bouncy, wavy or straight. But they must be clean and well-groomed. Correct implementation helps to achieve this. shampooing.

Hair washing is used in hairdressing salons for almost any service. If you don’t wash your hair regularly, the sweat and oil released will mix with skin flakes and dirt, creating a fertile ground for pathogenic bacteria, which can lead to various skin diseases. All types of hairdressing, with the exception of hair dyeing with dyes containing hydrogen peroxide, are performed on clean, freshly washed hair. Wet hair is more elastic, easily takes one shape or another, is highly stretched and does not break.

Shampooing has three purposes:

• hygienic - removing dirt from the surface of hair and skin;
• deformation - removing traces of the previous hairstyle;
• preparatory - softening the outer scaly layer of the hair.

Hair washing in hairdressing salons can be done in two ways - with the head tilted forward and with the head tilted back. In modern salons and hairdressing salons, the second method is used more often.

When washed with tilting the head forward no special devices required - the client tilts his head over the sink. The head is washed with shampoo, choosing for this purpose the most suitable for this type of hair.

When using the second method with tilting the head back a special sink with a recess is used. The notch in the sink makes it possible to firmly press the client's neck against it, so that water or hair treatment compounds do not get on the clothes.

Depending on the type and amount of inorganic compounds, water is soft and hard. Soft water contains a small amount of inorganic compounds (in particular, calcium salts), so the shampoo lathers very well in it. Hard water contains a lot of inorganic compounds, so the amount of foam in the shampoo is reduced. You can soften hard water by adding baking soda. The favorable temperature for shampooing is 34 - 39 ° C.

The choice of shampoo. When choosing a shampoo, it is necessary to correctly determine the type of hair. For many years, soap has remained the main cleansing ingredient in shampoos. But it had a number of disadvantages, such as poor lathering in hard water and matt build-up on the hair. As a result, instead of soap, surfactants began to be used in shampoos, which give abundant foam in water of any hardness and are easily removed by rinsing without leaving a dull plaque on the hair.

The search for new hair care products over the past decade has led to significant improvements in hair quality. The main purpose of shampoos is to remove impurities from the hair and scalp. It should be noted that most modern shampoos contain some kind of conditioning additive.

The modern development of new shampoos takes into account the fact that hair is washed today much more often than a few years ago; this stimulates the development of mild shampoos with a pH close to that of the scalp and hair (5.5 - 6.0).

By appointment, there are several types of shampoos:

• ordinary - most often require the use of other cosmetics. As a rule, these are detergents for different types hair (dry, oily, normal);
• special - usually soft; they can be used every day. They improve the appearance of the hair, do not irritate the scalp, as they have a neutral pH level, give the hair shine and silkiness;
• medicinal - intended for particularly sensitive and damaged hair and hair with dandruff. They are injected with special medicinal preparations;
• special purpose - used before or after perm or hair coloring. They neutralize oxidant residues, strengthen hair and give it strength, close cuticle scales, preserve the color of dyed hair.

Technology for performing shampooing. Before washing your hair, you need to prepare materials for washing and hairdressing linen, wash your hands, invite the client to a chair. The client is covered with a towel, tightly wrapped around the neck, and then the hair is carefully combed. Brushing your hair before washing provides a more even distribution of detergent over the entire surface of the hair and scalp and makes it easier to comb the hair after washing. Also, in the process of combing, the type of hair and its condition are determined, which makes it possible to more accurately select the necessary preparations for washing hair. Hair swollen from water and detergents loses approximately half of its strength to mechanical stress. Consequently, such hair requires more careful handling. It is especially important to remember this when treating naturally weak hair, as it can be easily damaged after washing. Hair that is well combed before washing is easy to comb after this procedure.

After the hair has been combed, the client is invited to the sink. To prevent water from getting on clothes, the visitor should firmly press the neck against the cut-out of the sink. Hair is thoroughly moistened with water, after which shampoo is applied. It should be borne in mind that cold shampoo causes discomfort, so it is better to apply the detergent to the hair from the palm of your hand.

Applying the detergent to the head, you should evenly distribute it over the entire head with a light circular rubbing with your fingertips, trying to cover with your fingers as much of the scalp as possible at the same time. With the appearance of soapy foam, the hair is rinsed with water, and the soaping operation is repeated if necessary. If your hair is heavily soiled, you can use a deep cleanser shampoo.

Remove foam from hair by rinsing thoroughly with water. For one washing operation in the women's room, 20-25 ml of shampoo is required, in the men's room - 8-10 ml.

Further hair treatment depends on which operation follows the shampooing and how detergent enjoyed it. If the hair has been exposed to chemical attack, then for better combing of the hair, you must apply a small amount of medicated balm. Hair shine depends on the condition of its outer scaly layer. The tighter the scales are pressed against each other, the better the hair shine. When using the balm, the outer layer of the hair is compacted, the irregularities are smoothed, which further facilitates combing and does not lead to mechanical injury to the hair. The frequency of shampooing depends on the condition of the hair and whether the scalp is oily or dry.

Hair Drying

Hair drying is an obligatory final step in almost all types of visitor services, especially in women's lounges. The need for drying hair sometimes arises during a particular hair treatment operation. However, the main purpose of drying is to fix the shape that was given to the hair when wet. The quality of styling depends on how well the hair has dried, i.e. the final look and the relative durability of the hairstyle.

Wet hair is very malleable (pliable) and quite easily takes shape with a styling or curling tool. When dry, their elasticity is restored, and the hair is able to maintain long time shaped when wet. Hair drying is carried out using special devices (dryers).

Air styling... Hair styling with a brush and hair dryer is carried out depending on the length of the hair.

Hairdrying to lift the roots using a flat skeletal brush is called bombing. It is used in both men's and women's halls when performing everyday evening and model hairstyles.

The order of operations is as follows:

• the strand is grasped with a brush at the root, against hair growth, for maximum lift. A stream of air is directed to the strand tangentially to the head and the hair formed by the hall is fixed. Allow this section of the strand to cool on the brush until it dries completely;
• the entire strand along the length is pulled with a brush, directing the stream of the hair dryer in the direction of the lines of the conceived hairstyle. After that, take out the brush from the dried strand of hair;
• in a similar way, they continue to perform styling in the rest of the head, gradually moving from the occipital zone to the frontal zone.

With a round brush, shape the ends of the hair or straighten curly hair... This styling method is called brushing , it only applies to the women's gym.

It is convenient to style hair of any length with a hairdryer. Hairstyles made from short hair will be fuller and last longer if the hair is moistened at the roots with gel, liquid varnish or styling foam.

Styling with a hairdryer requires special care. It is necessary to dry your hair very carefully, trying to ensure that the already dried hair does not come into contact with wet hair; clearly work out all the details, while simultaneously creating a volumetric shape of the hairstyle and making sure that the air jet does not burn the skin. For this, it is recommended to direct the air stream along a tangent line to the head, from the roots to the ends of the strand. After styling, the hair is combed with a wide-toothed comb.

Using a comb, flat brush and hairdryer, you can create waves. To do this, the comb is held perpendicular to the separated strand, the teeth of the brush are inserted into the hair at a distance of two or three fingers' width and slightly move it to the right. This is how the first wave is formed. Then the comb is turned with its teeth upward, tilted towards itself and dried with a stream of air, directing it to the left. The second wave is obtained in the same way, changing the direction of the brush and hair dryer. The comb is moved to the left by 1 cm and turned towards itself. Dry the hair with a blow dryer directed to the right side.

You can start styling from the parietal zone of the head or from the parting. The brush is held parallel to the head, grabbing a strand with it, the hair is lifted at the roots and slightly turned towards itself, after which the brush is moved away from the parting, gradually drying the hair along the entire brush. This technique is repeated several times to give the hair the desired shape.

You can wind long strands on a round brush and dry each strand first from the outside and then from the inside. To do this, comb out a strand with the left hand, slightly twisting the brush, as a result of which the hair is well fixed on the brush, taking the shape of a curl. In this case, the hair will bend down nicely without giving the impression of being rolled on curlers.

Washing hair and scalp one of the most important procedures when working with a client. All types of work, except for dyeing, are done after shampooing. This article will focus on the types of scalp washing, the purpose of this procedure, the classification of shampoos, the stages of shampooing, how to choose the right shampoo and conditioner.

And so shampooing haunts three goals:

1. removing dirt from hair (hygienic)
2. removal of traces of previous styling. (deformation)
3. loosening the outer layer of hair (preparatory)

Types of shampooing, pursuing additional goals:

1. hygienic washing - using simple shampoos.
2. therapeutic - the use of medicinal products.
3. dry - use of dry aerosol shampoos.

Shampoo classification by appointment, the main types:

• regular shampoos- most often require the use of additional cosmetics (rinse, etc.)
• special shampoos these are mild shampoos suitable for daily use. They usually contain a neutral pH. Choosing the right shampoo, correlating the pH of the shampoo and the pH of your hair, will improve the condition of your hair. PH level measured from 1 to 14. pH-7 has a neutral level, such an indicator in pure water, it is neither alkaline nor acidic. pH below 7 is acidic shampoo, and above 7 is alkaline. For dry and weakened hair, acidic shampoos are recommended with a pH below 7, or with a pH of 5.5 or generally alkaline-free with a pH of 4.5-5.5., And for oily hair pH with neutral or 6-8 pH. For children only with a neutral pH of 6-8.
• medicated shampoos designed for “problem” and especially sensitive hair, as well as severely damaged hair. These shampoos use special medicinal substances.
• special purpose shampoos- are used before or after a perm or hair dyeing, or other types of work, they help to remove oxidant residues, strengthen the hair structure, close the hair scales, which prevents hair splitting.

Preparatory work of the master before shampooing:

• prepare the workplace, wash the sink;
• invite a client to a chair;
• conduct a preliminary conversation;
• wash hands and disinfect instruments;
• comb the hair, determining its condition, hair type and the presence of diseases.
• cover the client with hairdressing linen (put one cloth over the shoulders, prepare another towel to dry the hair)
• pour the required amount of shampoo into a measuring cup.
• adjust the water temperature (optimal 30-40 degrees)

The sequence of shampooing:

1. Wet hair thoroughly with water.

2. Pour the shampoo into the palm of your hand and apply to the hair starting from the roots.

3. Lather the shampoo, in a circular motion, with the pads of the fingers, moving from the edge line of hair growth.

4. Rinse off the shampoo. (apply again if it is a hygienic wash)

Final work:

1. carry out a neutralization reaction on the hair (these are various rinses, balms, acid rinses, etc.);
2. wipe off hair light blotting with a towel;
3. comb your hair starting from the ends;
4. offer an additional service (haircut, styling ..);
5. take off hairdressing underwear.

To improve the structure of the hair, the following preparations are used: conditioners, conditioners, conditioners, conditioners.

• Conditioning balms in the form of a transparent liquid or cream, help soften and give shine to hair, and also relieve electrification.
• acidic rinses help restore the pH level and wash away soap residues.
• Acid-balanced rinses are intended for fixing the color after dyeing the hair.
• Conditioners (liquid and creamy) are used to make hair easier to comb and add shine to the hair. It is not recommended to use only it all the time.
• Healing rinses allow you to improve the structure of the hair and get rid of dandruff, provide easy combing.
• Balms regulate the pH level and smooth the top layer (cuticle) of the hair, which prevents the ingress of harmful substances, as well as the evaporation of water from the hair, which prevents hair from becoming dry and brittle.

Shampooing is an important hygiene procedure. All types of hairdressing work, with the exception of hair dyeing with dyes containing hydrogen peroxide, are performed on clean, freshly washed hair. Wet hair is more elastic and easily takes on one shape or another, is highly stretched and does not break. In addition, shampooing is necessary to remove the oil secreted by the sebaceous glands of the scalp. If you don’t wash your hair regularly, the secreted sweat and grease, mixing with skin flakes and dirt, will create favorable conditions for pathogenic bacteria that cause skin diseases.

Shampooing has three purposes:

· Removal of dirt from hair (hygienic);

· Removal of traces of the previous laying (deformation);

· Loosening of the outer layer of the hair (preparatory).

There are also three types of shampooing:

· Hygienic - using regular shampoo;

· Therapeutic - with the use of medicinal products;

Dry - using a dry aerosol shampoo or alcohol.

Most often, hygienic shampooing is performed. As you know, water has cleansing properties. For hygienic washing, shampoo is necessary only to increase the effectiveness of its effect. Shampoos contain substances that can remove dirt, grease and styling products from the hair. The sebum secreted by the sebaceous glands does not dissolve in water, but under the action of shampoo it coagulates into tiny droplets and is washed out with water.

To get a good result, it is very important to choose the right shampoo and prepare the water. Depending on the type and content of inorganic compounds, a distinction is made between soft and hard water. Soft water contains a small amount of inorganic compounds, so the shampoo lathers very well in it. In hard water, on the contrary, there are many inorganic compounds, so the soapiness of the shampoo decreases. Hard water can be softened by adding borax or baking soda.

Before choosing a shampoo, it is necessary to correctly determine the type of hair. Shampoos for damaged hair should contain substances that can improve their appearance. If your hair is oily, a special shampoo is needed.

The existing opinion that frequent washing increases their fat content is incorrect. Very oily hair can be washed even every day.

To keep your hair intact and give it shine, you need to be very careful when choosing a shampoo, especially if you wash your hair frequently. Too strong or incorrectly selected shampoo can damage your hair. Sparing, soft drugs, on the contrary, due to their healing properties improve the condition of the scalp and eliminate damage to the hair structure.

It is very important to choose a shampoo with the required pH level, which characterizes the acid-base medium of the cosmetic product. The pH level can range from 1 to 14. A shampoo with a pH of 7 is considered neutral (neither alkaline nor acidic). At pH> 7, the shampoo is alkaline. The lower the pH value, the higher the acidity of the shampoo.

Most shampoos are neutral to the pH of the skin (5.5) or hair. These shampoos are preferred for washing hair.

Shampoo cleanses hair and scalp. All shampoos are based on surfactants that cleanse the hair. In addition to surfactants, shampoos contain substances for hair care and protection, functional additives, preservatives, active medicinal ingredients, and foaming agents.

Shampoo classification

Shampoos are divided into liquid and concentrated shampoos.

All concentrated shampoos must be diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio before use.

By appointment, all shampoos can be divided into four types: ordinary, special (including "2 in 1" - shampoo and conditioner balm), medicinal and special purposes.

Regular shampoos most often require the use of other cosmetics (rinses, etc.).

Special shampoos are mild shampoos that can be used every day. They do not harm the hair or irritate the scalp as they are pH neutral.

Healing shampoos designed for "problem", especially sensitive and damaged hair, contain special medicinal preparations.

Special purpose shampoos are used before or after a perm or hair coloring. They neutralize oxidant residues, strengthen hair, make it more durable, close cuticle scales, etc.

Preparatory work

Before washing your hair, the master must do the following:

· Prepare the workplace, be sure to wash the sink;

· Invite the client to the chair;

· To conduct a preliminary conversation;

· Wash your hands and disinfect the instrument;

· Carefully comb the hair in order to detect the presence of diseases, as well as to determine the type of hair and their condition;

· Cover the client with hairdressing linen (use two towels and a napkin, while one towel is placed on the shoulders, and the second is wiped off the hair);

· Pour the required amount of shampoo into a measuring cup;

· Adjust the temperature of the water (the optimum temperature for washing hair is 37-40 ° C).

In a hairdressing salon, there are two methods of washing hair: with the head tilted forward and with the head tilted back.

When washing hair with the head tilted forward, it is necessary to offer the client a sterile napkin to protect the face.

The sequence of shampooing:

· Moisten hair thoroughly with water.

· Pour the required amount of shampoo into the palm for more convenient distribution on the hair, as well as for warming.

· Spread the shampoo evenly on the hair, starting from the roots.

· Lather the shampoo on the hair in a circular motion, while the fingertips should move from the edge of the hairline to the highest point of the head.

Rinse off the shampoo and then reapply.

Hygienic hair washing is performed twice.

Final work :

At the final stage of shampooing it is necessary:

· Carry out a neutralization reaction on the hair;

· Wipe hair with light blotting movements;

· Comb the hair, starting from the ends;

· offer Additional services(drying, styling, haircut, etc.);

· Take off hairdressing underwear.

Preparations for improving hair structure

The following preparations are used to improve the hair structure: conditioners, conditioners, conditioners, conditioners.

Conditioning balms in the form of a liquid, cream or soap include substances that compensate for the loss of the hair's natural lubrication, soften the hair, relieve electricity and give it shine. There are special additives that can neutralize the effects of chemical exposure to hair when dyeing or curling.

Acidic rinses are used to restore pH levels and remove soap deposits from hair. The fatty acids in the soap combine with inorganic substances in the water to form a soapy residue that cannot be washed off with water. As a result, the hair loses its shine and is very difficult to comb.

Currently, hair is washed with shampoos, not soap, so acidic rinses are practically not used.

Acidity-balanced rinses are designed to fix the color after colorants have been applied. They facilitate the penetration of dye molecules into the cuticle, which prevents hair from fading. Most often, such rinses include lemon acid and moisturizers that leave hair soft and supple.

Therapeutic rinses reduce dandruff, improve appearance hair and provide easy combing.

Conditioners (liquid and creamy) are used to make the hair easier to comb and give it shine. However, it is not recommended to use these products very often, as they accumulate in the hair, making it heavy and oily. This forces you to wash your hair more often, resulting in further hair damage.

The balms not only stabilize the pH of the hair, but also smooth the top layer (cuticle) of the hair, which swells and breaks when lye gets on it (hard water, shampoo, paint or permanent makeup). By smoothing the outer layer, the balm helps to make each hair more easily treatable and does not let harmful substances inside. The cuticle also helps keep each hair from evaporating water, which is the main cause of dry and brittle hair.

Most balms need to be rinsed off with warm water, after which you should carefully dry your hair with a towel with light movements.

Course work

Modern methods of therapeutic and prophylactic shampooing

Introduction

shampoo washing head medicated

The art of a hairdresser is compared to the work of an artist: a true master has impeccable taste.

The main and basic "tools" of a good hairdresser are his imagination, sense of modernity, aesthetic taste, faithful eyes and skillful hands.

In hairdressing schools, in courses, hairdressers systematically master new methods of work, modern methods of hair treatment (dyeing, curling, etc.), receive information about new haircuts, fashionable hairstyles, improving their skills. Depending on the types of work and the tools used in the profession of a hairdresser, specialties are distinguished: hairdresser for men, women and children.

The main production operations of a hairdresser are: hair lightening, which can be either an independent or a preparatory operation; coloring with dyes; shampooing, accompanied by a light massage, therapeutic and prophylactic procedures with hair treatment with medicinal and regenerating preparations; haircut; curling; styling.

1. Theoretical part

Let's start with history.

For many centuries, exclusively natural products have been used to wash hair: egg yolk, sour milk, ash, clay, rye bread, decoctions from various plants. The hair was rinsed with herbal infusions.

In the middle of the 19th century, industrial production of solid soap began in Europe, and it began to be used for washing hair. Soap removes dirt well, but does not foam well in hard water and forms insoluble salts that can build up on the hair and irritate the scalp. A special liquid soap was also used to wash the hair. Popular in those days, "green" soap with medicinal properties was obtained from linseed oil.

Shampoos first appeared in the 30s of the twentieth century, and released their company "Schwarzkopf". In Russia, the first shampoo was created in the 60s. The soap base remained the main component for a long time, but then they found a replacement for it. In shampoos, surfactants began to be used, which foam well in any water and do not leave a dull bloom on the hair.

Gradually, from a common hygiene product, shampoo turned into a multifunctional product that not only cleanses the hair and scalp, but also improves the appearance of the hair and even its structure, gives it volume and shine. There appeared shampoos with therapeutic and prophylactic properties (against dandruff), shampoos of the "2 in 1" type, combining washing and conditioning properties in one composition. In a modern shampoo, everything is important: the softness of care, the presence of active additives, a pleasant appearance and smell, the design of the bottle. And it is obvious that in the future the requirements for the properties of the shampoo will increase.

Types of shampooing.

Shampooing is an important hygiene procedure. Wet hair is more elastic and easily takes on one shape or another, is highly stretched and does not break. In addition, shampooing is necessary to remove the oil secreted by the sebaceous glands of the scalp. If you do not wash your hair regularly, then the sweat and grease released, mixing with skin flakes and dirt, will create favorable conditions for pathogenic bacteria that cause skin diseases.

Shampooing has three purposes:

v removal of dirt from hair (hygienic);

v removal of traces of the previous installation (deformation);

v loosening of the outer layer of the hair (preparatory).

There are also three types of shampooing:

v hygienic - using regular shampoo;

v therapeutic - with the use of medicinal preparations;

v dry - using dry aerosol shampoo or alcohol.

Most often, hygienic shampooing is performed. As you know, water has cleansing properties. For hygienic washing, shampoo is necessary only to increase the effectiveness of its effect. Shampoos contain substances that can remove dirt, grease and styling products from the hair. The sebum secreted by the sebaceous glands does not dissolve in water, but under the action of shampoo it coagulates into tiny droplets and is washed out with water.

To get a good result, it is very important to choose the right shampoo and prepare the water. Depending on the type and content of inorganic compounds, a distinction is made between soft and hard water. Soft water contains a small amount of inorganic compounds, so the shampoo lathers very well in it. In hard water, on the contrary, there are many inorganic compounds, so the soapiness of the shampoo decreases. Hard water can be softened by adding borax or baking soda. Before choosing a shampoo, it is necessary to correctly determine the type of hair. Shampoos for damaged hair should contain substances that can improve their appearance. If your hair is oily, a special shampoo is needed.

The existing opinion that frequent washing increases their fat content is incorrect. Very oily hair can be washed even every day. To keep your hair intact and give it shine, you need to be very careful when choosing a shampoo, especially if you wash your hair frequently. Too strong or incorrectly selected shampoo can damage your hair. Sparing, mild preparations, on the contrary, due to their healing properties, improve the condition of the scalp and eliminate damage to the hair structure. It is very important to choose a shampoo with the required pH level, which characterizes the acid-base medium of the cosmetic product. The pH level can range from 1 to 14. A shampoo with a pH of 7 is considered neutral (neither alkaline nor acidic). At pH> 7, the shampoo is alkaline. The lower the pH value, the higher the acidity of the shampoo. Most shampoos are neutral to the pH of the skin (5.5) or hair. These shampoos are preferred for washing hair. Shampoo cleanses hair and scalp. All shampoos are based on surfactants that cleanse the hair. In addition to surfactants, shampoos contain substances for hair care and protection, functional additives, preservatives, active medicinal ingredients, and foaming agents.

Shampoo classification

Shampoos are divided into liquid and concentrated shampoos. All concentrated shampoosbefore use, it must be diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio. By purpose, all shampoos can be divided into four types: ordinary, special (including "2 in 1" - sham pun and balm-conditioner), medicinal and special purposes. Regular shampoos most often require the use of other cosmetic products (rinses, etc.). Special shampoos- these are shampoos of mild action, they can be used every day. They do not harm the hair or irritate the scalp as they are pH neutral. Healing shampoosintended for "problem", especially sensitive and damaged hair, with keep special medications. Special purpose shampoosused before or after perm or hair coloring. They neutralize oxidant residues, strengthen hair, make it more durable, close cuticle scales, etc.

Preparatory work

Before washing your hair, the master must do the following:

· prepare the workplace, be sure to wash the sink;

· invite a client to a chair;

· conduct a preliminary conversation;

· wash your hands and disinfect the instrument;

· comb your hair thoroughly in order to detect the presence of diseases, as well as to determine the type of hair and their condition;

· cover the client with hairdressing linen (use two towels and a napkin, while one towel is placed on the shoulders, and the second is wiped off the hair);

· pour the required amount of shampoo into a measuring cup;

· adjust the water temperature (the optimum temperature for washing hair is 37 - 40 ° C).

A type of shampooing.

In a hairdressing salon, there are two methods of washing hair: with the head tilted forward and with the head tilted back.

When washing hair with the head tilted forward, it is necessary to offer the client a sterile napkin to protect the face.

2. Practical part

The sequence of shampooing

Wet hair thoroughly with water.

Pour the required amount of shampoo into the palm for more convenient distribution on the hair, as well as for warming.

Distribute the shampoo evenly on the hair, starting from the roots.

Lather the shampoo on the hair in a circular motion, while the fingertips should move from the edge of the hairline to the highest point of the head.

Rinse off the shampoo and then reapply.

Hygienic hair washing is performed twice.

Washing head.

Basic operations for shampooing.

v Washing hair with henna.

v Hair wash with lecithin.

Hair types.

In humans, there are 3 types of hair: vellus, bristly, long.

Fluffy haircover the entire human body, they are not found on the palms, soles and red border of the lips. This is very thin and soft hair, most often without pigment.

Bristly hair- short hairs 1-2 cm long, these include eyelashes and eyebrows.

Long hair - thick hair of normal length.

Hair thickness is not the same in different people, as well as in people of different races, so hair is divided into thick and thin, hard and soft.

Washing head- this is a very important operation on the performance of which the quality of the further processing of the hair depends.

Shampooing has 3 goals:

... hygienic(removal of grease, dust, etc.). Oily hair is difficult to process, because the fat coats the hair with a thin layer, closes the pores and inhibits the penetration of coloring and curling agents into the hair.

... deformation- wet hair takes on any shape, therefore, when washing the head, traces of previous styling, hairstyles, traces of hats are removed.

3.preparatory- consists in softening the outer scaly layer of hair from the action of detergents and warm water, contributing to their quick and unhindered action with other means.

Basic operations and types of work when shampooing.

Washing your hair with a detergent is done in 2 ways:

... head tilted forward

... with the head tilted back.When using the second method, a special device (wing) or a sink with a recess is used. A notch in the wing or shell allows the neck to be pressed tightly against the neck to prevent water or hair treatments from getting on the clothes. This method is currently used more often.

When shampooing with an inclination forwardno special devices required - the client tilts his head over the sink. This method of shampooing is more often used in men's rooms, as well as in those hairdressing salons where there are no special devices for shampooing the second way.

The head is washed with soap or shampoo, henna, emulsion with lecithin. Washing your hair with soap or shampoo can be a stand-alone operation, as well as part of shampooing with henna and lecithin emulsion. The most favorable water temperature for shampooing is 34 - 45 ° C.

The client is covered with a towel tightly around the neck, after which the hair is carefully combed. Brushing your hair before washing provides a more even distribution of detergent over the entire surface of the hair and scalp and makes it easier to comb the hair after washing. Hair that is well combed before washing is easy to comb after this procedure. Before shampooing, the hair can be brushed with any comb, while after shampooing, only a non-metallic comb should be used, since it is easier to damage the hair weakened by washing with a metal comb. Hair swollen from water and detergents loses approximately half of its strength to mechanical stress. Consequently, such hair requires more careful handling. It is especially important to remember this when treating naturally weak hair, as it can be easily damaged after washing.

v Hair washing equipment

To prevent water from getting on clothes, the visitor must firmly press his neck against the cutout of the special device (when washing the head in the second way) or tilt his head forward over the sink (when washing in the first way), having previously covered his face with a sterile napkin. The hair is moistened with water, after which liquid soap or shampoo is applied. It should be borne in mind that cold liquid soap or shampoo causes discomfort, so it is better to apply the detergent to your hair from the palm of your hand.

When using concentrated shampoos, before applying to the hair (or beforehand), they are diluted in 8 - 10 parts of warm water. The use of concentrated shampoos without prior dilution in water can lead to scalp disease with seborrhea. Applying the detergent to the head, you should evenly distribute it over the entire head with a light circular rubbing with your fingertips, trying to cover with your fingers as much of the scalp as possible at the same time. With the appearance of soapy foam, the hair is rinsed with water and the soaping operation is repeated, since after the first soaping, only the main part of the dirt is removed from the hair and scalp. If there is too much dust and other mechanical impurities on the hair or an excessive amount of grease, the first time the detergent is applied to the hair, it will not be possible to obtain copious lather. In this case, the detergent composition is applied to the hair twice in order to remove the main impurities and get a good long-lasting lather. The formation of heavy lather is an indicator that the hair is clean. Lathering your hair twice is usually enough to rinse your hair well. In rare cases, there is a need for a third soaping. The soap foam is removed from the hair by thoroughly rinsing it with water. For one washing operation in the women's room, 20 - 25 ml of liquid soap is required, in the men's room - 8 - 10 ml.

Further hair treatment depends on what kind of operation follows the shampooing and what kind of detergent was used. After washing liquid soap(and it is known to be alkaline) you need to rinse your hair with acidified water. This procedure is necessary to neutralize the alkali that is present in the soap, as well as to give the hair a shine. Thus, rinsing the hair with acidified water after washing it not only neutralizes the alkali, but also strengthens the hair structure and gives it a beautiful appearance.

In the case of using alkali-free shampoos for washing hair, there is no need to neutralize the alkali. Therefore, you do not need to rinse your hair with acidified water.

The neutralization of alkali with a solution of citric or acetic acid is carried out as follows: two or three tablespoons of 8% vinegar or 2 g of citric acid are diluted in 1 liter of warm water and the hair is rinsed with this solution on all parts of the head. How often you wash your hair depends on its condition and whether your scalp is oily or dry. Under normal condition of hair and skin, the head should be washed every 6 - 7 days, with very oily skin this interval can be reduced to 3 - 4 days, and with very dry, on the contrary, increased to 8 - 10 days.

Washing your hair with henna.

Pursues 2 goals:

... Curative- strengthening hair, eliminating dandruff

2. Shading- giving hair a shade

Washing (technology):

1. Preparation of the composition. 7d. henna per 100g. water temperature 85 degrees. We put on a steam bath

We start washing the head with a detergent (3-5 minutes), during this time the composition has cooled to 45 degrees and the henna has swollen

We blot the hair with a towel and apply the medicinal composition first to the ZZ, and then to the FTZ. Light acupressure within 2-5 minutes

We wash off the composition with plenty of water without shampoo

Wet it with a towel and proceed to further operations

The use of henna when washing hair has a positive effect on their growth, cleanses the scalp from dandruff and gives light golden tones to the hair of light shades. Therefore, washing the head with henna is quite widely used in hairdressing practice. To wash your hair, you need to prepare a henna solution. One operation requires 5 - 6 g of henna. Henna is released in bags of 25 g. Pour about a fourth of the bag into an enamel or porcelain bowl, mix the powder well and crush the lumps. 100 ml of hot water (80 - 85 ° С) is carefully poured into a bowl of powder, constantly stirring the liquid with a non-metallic stick. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that no lumps form. As soon as the mass becomes homogeneous, stirring can be stopped. The client is covered with a peignoir and a plastic wrap, on top of which a towel is placed. It will trap the henna solution flowing down the polyethylene cape.

Then the client is washed with soap or shampoo. After shampooing, you need to lightly squeeze your hair with your hands to remove excess water from it. Now you can start wetting your hair with the prepared henna solution. During the time that the head is being washed, the prepared henna solution has time to cool down to 38 - 45 ° C.

It is better to wet the hair with henna solution on a special device (wing). To do this, slightly raise the client's head from the wing, leaving the neck tightly pressed against the cutout in it in order to avoid possible henna dripping onto the clothes. First, the occipital part is moistened with henna, including the hair along the line of its growth on the neck, and then, laying the head on the wing, and the scalp of the rest of the head. After wetting all hairs with henna, gently massage the scalp with your fingertips. The exposure time of henna on the hair is 5 - 15 minutes. After that, you need to rinse your hair with warm water without soap, dry it with a towel and comb.

Shampooing with Londestral emulsion.

The goal is therapeutic and prophylactic, i.e. elimination of dandruff, skin and hair restoration, hair strengthening.

Preparation of the drug.

g of the drug + 20g. warm water - stir

Shampooing with detergent

Apply to the scalp; on ZZ, and then on FTZ, applying first to the hair roots, and then over the entire surface of the hair.

Massage for 15 minutes

Insulation cap or "Klimazon" preparation (holding time 15-30 minutes)

After the exposure time, wash off the preparation with plenty of water without using shampoo.

We blot with a towel and proceed to further operations

Emulsion with lecithin (drug "Lonestral") is intended for the care of healthy hair and for the restoration of damaged hair with preparations for curling or dyeing hair. "Lonestral" contains biologically active and regenerating substances that have a beneficial effect on hair, helps to remove dandruff and strengthens the hair roots. As you know, the use of various chemicals for hair treatment causes hair damage to one degree or another. So, with prolonged perm (permanent), as a result of the action of the alkaline composition and high temperature, overdrying of the hair very often occurs. Similar phenomena are observed with excessive bleaching (bleaching) of hair with hydrogen peroxide. Thus, the use of the lecithin emulsion is especially recommended after perms and hair dyes.

Before shampooing with the lecithin emulsion, cover the client with a towel in the same way as for a regular shampoo. After that, the composition of the emulsion is prepared: one or two tablespoons of the emulsion, depending on the length and thickness of the hair, are diluted in 10 - 20 ml of hot water. Then wash your hair in the usual way and pat dry with a towel. The gruel of the emulsion is applied to the hair with a brush. To do this, divide the hair with a straight parting from one ear to the other and comb it from the parting in different directions, i.e. the front part of hair towards the face, the back - towards the neck down. Hair treatment can be started both from the parietal and from the back of the head. To do this, gradually separating the strand from the strand with short partings, apply the emulsion to the hair.

The thickness of the treated strand of hair at the base should be 1.5 - 2 cm.

After applying the emulsion, the hair is treated with steam under the PA-1 apparatus. At the same time, their stratum corneum softens, which contributes to better absorption of the emulsion. The steam bath also has a beneficial effect on the scalp - the skin softens and absorbs the emulsion more easily. Thus, additional nutrition of the hair roots is carried out.

Insulating cap

If the hairdresser does not have an apparatus for treating hair with steam, you need to use a warming cap. The insulating cap is a batting or foam rubber, sheathed from the inside and outside with plastic wrap or any other waterproof material. Hair covered with a warming cap needs to be warmed up under a dryer. When heated, wet hair and the emulsion on it begin to emit steam. Due to the fact that the lining is moisture-proof, the vapor is concentrated under the hood. The steam temperature when using the insulating hood is much lower than when using the PA-1 apparatus. Therefore, the holding time under the PA-1 apparatus is somewhat shorter (20 min), and under the insulating hood - 30 min. Moreover, when using a warming cap, it is not necessary to warm your head under the dryer for 30 minutes. The first 15 minutes are enough to raise the temperature under the hood.

The Role of Hair Care Products

Hair becomes dry, damaged and brittle as a result of insufficient secretion of the sebaceous glands or due to poor care. In this regard, various problems arise: the healthy shine of the hair is lost; splitting of the hair occurs due to the divergence of the scales; the porosity of the hair progresses, which leads to a significant increase in their drying time; the strength of the hair decreases: the hair becomes more brittle due to the destruction of many cross-links in the keratin structure.

To solve these problems and prevent them, cosmetic preparations for hair care are used during and after washing. Their main purpose is as follows:

restore lost shine to hair;

facilitate hair combing;

strengthen thin, weakened hair, increase its elasticity;

make hair silky to the touch, without enveloping or weighing it down;

take off static electricity from the hair;

make hair more manageable while styling your hair.

Care for problem hair consists primarily in reimbursing them for the missing components, and the care will not be effective if fixation of these components on the hair shaft is not achieved, so that they are not removed during normal rinsing with water.

Damaged hair, unlike healthy hair, has gaps in the arrangement of scales on the hair cuticle. The scales themselves can be damaged, raised, or clearly missing. Ordinary acid rinsing can help smooth the raised flakes. In some cases, the condition of the hair shaft is improved by adding substances to the hair rinse that form a more or less dense film on the surface of the hair shaft. The perfect arrangement of the scales ensures a smooth surface and easy hair combing.

It is more difficult to act on damaged skin from discoloration, coloring, curling or straightening, which makes up 90% of the total mass of hair. Alkaline formulations of these drugs negatively affect the hair structure. The medulla (medulla) is the part of the hair that is least accessible to cosmetic preparations.

The main ingredients of therapeutic and prophylactic agents

The quality and degree of the effect of these drugs on the condition of the hair depends on the presence or absence of certain components in the composition of therapeutic and prophylactic agents for hair care. Ingredients that should form the basis of such formulations include cationic agents, fortifying agents, and other formulation components.

Cationic agents. Hair that is treated with alkaline compounds during curling, dyeing and intense bleaching, gradually acquire an increasing negative electrical charge on its surface. Positively charged cationic additives help restore imbalance and are especially important for the care of damaged hair. The degree of interaction between the cationic agent and the hair depends on the pH and ionic strength of the shampoo. Accordingly, the formulation of the drug should take into account the ability of the cationic additive to change the degree of adsorption.

Strengthening agents. These include substances used to treat damaged, dull and porous hair. These agents (for example, proteins) are fixed on the hair. During the treatment, a protective film forms on the hair shaft and the improvement in the quality and appearance of the hair becomes noticeable.

Other components. In addition to the above agents, components such as waxes, oils, silicone (organosilicon) compounds play an important role in restoring the hair structure; plant extracts (calendula, mallow, jojoba, cartite, tea tree), proteins, mainly of plant origin

3. Classification of therapeutic and prophylactic agents

Treatment and prophylaxis for the scalp

Hair care consists of two stages: scalp care and hair care itself. All therapeutic and prophylactic agents are thus divided into two large groups: products for the scalp and hair products.

The scalp functions in the same way as the entire body. Each cell goes through a natural cycle from origin in the lower layer of the epidermis to death and movement to its upper layer. Having reached the surface, the keratinized cells are gradually peeled off as a result of friction and washed off during washing. This cycle lasts approximately one month. Normally, the scalp and each hair separately are covered with a protective lipid film, which makes the hair water-repellent and resistant to mechanical damage. It was found that washing removes 80% of the lipids that make up this film, the initial level of which is restored only after 3 - 7 days. It is for this reason that daily washing of hair leads to dryness and flaking of the scalp, as well as thinning and fragility of the hair shaft. Thus, the condition of the hair directly depends on the condition of the scalp. Hair loss, baldness (alopecia), and dandruff are all signs of unhealthy scalp. For the treatment and prevention of these diseases, there are many special agents and preparations that improve the condition of the scalp and ensure the productive growth of healthy hair. But treatment should begin with eradicating the cause of the problem.

Hair loss. With age, irreversible hair changes occur: they turn gray, the body gradually loses its ability to fully replenish lost hair. This process is accompanied by thinning hair, loss of shine and elasticity. Frequent curling on curlers, the action of dyes, brighteners, curls - all this is also not harmless to the hair. They become dull, brittle, difficult to lay, "fly away". In addition to external effects on the hair, leading to hair loss, there are a number of internal reasons: liver and stomach diseases, vitamin deficiency, stress, seasonal hair loss, etc.

Baldness (alopecia). The condition of the hair, like the skin, depends on the work of all functional systems of the body. The causes of baldness can be the same problems as with hair loss, as well as hormonal alopecia caused by genetics (or increased secretion of the male hormone androgen), viral diseases, protein deficiency in food, the postpartum period or termination of pregnancy, immune diseases, etc. ...

The most common concept of the onset and development of baldness is nervous, but there are other reasons - malnutrition of the papillae and disturbance of microcirculation, the occurrence of foci of chronic infection, deficiency of trace elements, impaired absorption in the small intestine, etc.

Dandruff. Earlier it was noted that on the scalp, as well as on other parts of the body, there is a constant process of sloughing of the stratum corneum of the epidermis. Under certain conditions, this physiological process changes: the cells of the scalp begin to exfoliate intensively, the sebum sticks together the particles, they become visible.

The rapid development of the fungus, increased keratinization (thickening) of the stratum corneum and the formation of a crust on the head, squeezing the mouth of the hair follicles, are the main stages of the process.

The determining factor in the degeneration of the fungus is the state of the immune status. Violations of the immune defense mechanisms lead to certain shifts in the state of the water-lipid mantle, where favorable conditions are created for an aggressive form of fungal development. The reasons for the imbalance of immunity can be very different - stress, overwork, hypovitaminosis, physical fatigue syndrome.

Frequent and irrational use of styling products (styling) can also lead to undesirable changes in the water-lipid mantle of the scalp and is a provoking moment in the development of dandruff. Means for styling and fixing hairstyles (gels, mousses, varnishes, waxes) form an impenetrable film on the hair and scalp.

Paints, blonding agents, perm, and insolation have a negative effect. Dandruff treatment should be directed primarily at eradicating the cause. The preventive measure is proper care behind the hair. Hair care rules are similar to skin care rules - it is a system that includes several successive stages: cleansing, nutrition, moisturizing and protection. At the stage of cleansing, the choice of shampoo is very important, especially when washing your hair daily.

Treatment and prophylaxis for hair

This group of hair care products is represented by preparations for washing and after washing.

Therapeutic and prophylactic hair care products for washing.First of all, these are preparations for hair for dandruff, combining medicinal and hygienic functions. The difference from cosmetic shampoos is that medicated shampoos additionally contain an active ingredient to reduce dandruff levels. To enhance and consolidate the action of the shampoo, many firms offer additional lotions, gels, ampoules and other products, but they play a secondary role. Most anti-dandruff shampoos are based on their antibacterial and fungicidal properties, which kill the fungus that causes dandruff. In addition, medicated shampoos regulate the function of the sebaceous glands, relieve irritation and itching and, having a "peeling" effect, help to remove dead skin flakes. In essence, this group of funds is a therapeutic and prophylactic drugs for scalp care, since the above functions of the drugs are aimed specifically at solving scalp problems. However, the relationship between the condition of the skin and hair is unconditional, and therefore, the effect of drugs on the scalp and hair will be the same.

Manufacturers of mass-market products (Head & Sholders - Head & Shoulders, Pantin Provi - Pantene Pro-V, Nivea - Nivea) are also engaged in the problem of creating an effective anti-dandruff product. , and the creators of professional (salon) products ("Schwarzkopf professional" - "Schwarzkopf professional", "Vella" - "Wella"), and developers of medicinal (pharmaceutical) drugs ("Nizoral shampoo" - "Nizoral Shampooing", "Vichy Laboratory" - "Laboratoires Vichy", "Lierac" - Lierac). When choosing this or that remedy, it should be borne in mind that drugs for dandruff, especially pharmaceutical ones, are selected taking into account the type of dandruff, which can only be determined by a specialist (trichologist). Most medicated shampoos are designed only for a specific course of treatment.

The main ingredients of anti-dandruff remedies are:

ketoconazole - an active antifungal component that destroys the fungus that causes dandruff, protects the scalp and hair from its reappearance for a long time;

zinc pyrithionate is included vthe composition of shampoos designed to combat dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis; actively removes dandruff, normalizes the activity of the sebaceous glands of the skin, prevents hair loss;

pyroctonolamine has an anti-inflammatory effect, relieves irritation and itching; in combination with lemon oil and lipohydroxy acid, it has an astringent effect and has keratolytic properties;

hexamidine diisothionate has antifungal activity;

salicylic acid helps to remove dandruff flakes;

selenium disulfide has antifungal effect in the presence of dry dandruff;

Octopyrox is an active supplement designed to fight fungal diseases, including strains that cause dandruff. Staying on the hair for a long time, it prevents its reappearance;

coal tar inhibits the formation of dandruff;

burdock and sage extracts regulate the functions of the sebaceous glands;

complex essential oils rosemary, cypress, cajaput tree, tea tree has antifungal and bactericidal effect, especially necessary for brittle and brittle hair;

myrtle extract is designed to fight oily dandruff and severe itching.

The miraculous properties of the water and mineral salts of the Dead Sea also help to cope with dandruff, as well as radically reduce excess oil on the scalp and hair.

Therapeutic and prophylactic hair care products after washing.There are two groups of post-wash hair care products: 1) rinse-off products; 2) indelible products.

Group washable productsfor hair care after washing includes all types of rinses or conditioners, starting with liquid milk, balms - rinses, creams for combing hair with different consistencies and ending with liquid gels and masks. The main purpose of such products is to compensate for the adverse effects on the hair and give them properties such as ease of combing, elasticity, shine and softness.

Rinse off hair care products after washing are oil / water emulsions, which have the following composition: base base; thickener; conditioning additives (surfactant cationic agents, cosmetic additives); special components; preservatives, perfume. Let's take a closer look at each component of this group of funds.

The base base consists of fat particles (oil phase), alcohols, ethers, waxes, which maintain the consistency of the product required for ease of application. An excess of base in the formulation of the drug can make the hair heavier.

A thickener is needed to strengthen the base, in particular to stabilize the emulsion. Most often, a colloid is used for this.

Conditioning additives are the main functional part of the composition. Conditioning additives determine the properties of the product. They can be divided into two categories:

cationic compounds (surfactants), which are quaternary ammonium bases with one or two chains. This group includes distearyldimethylammonium chloride, acetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, diphenyltrimethylammonium chloride. They act on the hair shaft, mask its surface defects, enclose the hair in a sheath, greatly facilitating combing and making the hair soft;

cosmetic additives are mainly cationic organic silicon polymers (silicones), but there can be cationic polymers of a different nature. They provide ease of combing hair, make hair smooth, shiny, make it pleasant and silky to the touch. Cosmetic additives also make it easier to style your hair.

Special components can be used in conjunction with cationic surfactants to achieve special effects, for example, the use of UV filters can enhance the effect of polymers and can contribute to the activity of the drug against dandruff.

Preservatives are just as necessary as in shampoos, with the significant difference that cationic additives themselves may have bactericidal properties and products containing them are less susceptible to microbial contamination.

The mechanism of action of conditioners is based on cationic substances, mainly quaternary ammonium compounds, which are able to adhere to the negatively charged surface of the hair by binding to keratin. This property is called substantive. It is due to the substantiveness that the conditioners are not only fixed on the surface of the hair, but also retain the beneficial additive.

Since damaged hair areas have a negative charge, more cationic particles are fixed on them and the cosmetic effect is enhanced.

The flip side of this process is the heavier hair and loss of splendor, so when creating a conditioner shampoo, there must be a balance between washing and conditioning ingredients. An unreasonable increase in conditioning ingredients in the formulation can lead not only to loss of splendor and weight of hair, but also to a deterioration in such properties of the shampoo as cleansing and rinsing. The choice of an air conditioner is also important. For example, silicone oils accumulate on the hair, so volatile silicones are used in hair products.

Other benefits of conditioners include giving your hair a beautiful shine. This is achieved by the fact that conditioners stick together the hair scales, make the surface smoother, and change the reflectance of the hair, thus increasing the color intensity and natural shine. Depending on the composition and effect on the hair, the following types of conditioners are distinguished.

Moisturizers, or moisturizers, are designed for dry hair because they attract moisture. Herbal extracts and proteinaceous substances (protein) are common ingredients in moisturizers. Wasterizers are often made on the basis of milk whey.

Reconstructors contain proteins, the most popular of which is hydrolyzed keratin. This protein has a low molecular weight, so it can easily penetrate the hair sheath. Conditioners - reconstructors are used for damaged hair (after a perm, use of dyes, etc.).

Conditioners-acidifiers (from the English acid - acid) have an acidity index of pH 2.5 - 3.5. These conditioners make the hair shinier and more elastic, resulting in the appearance of more hair. The hair volume itself does not increase, it is just an optical effect.

Detangler conditioners are almost always acidifiers, they act in the same way, with the difference that they help to a greater extent with split ends.

Temperature protectors are contained in shampoos that have the word “terma” in their name, for example, “Thermasilk”. The protectors are based on special polymers that evenly distribute heat when they get on the hair. This property of the conditioner is necessary for those whose hair is in a constantly changing temperature and, of course, when using curlers and a hair dryer.

Conditioners should be selected based on the type and characteristics of the hair. Conventional preparations have enough strength from washing to washing. But there are products with a stronger effect - silicones and polymers. They are incorporated into rinses for the care of severely split hair. If the hair after systematic use of this conditioner has become lethargic and heavy, difficult to style, then temporarily stop using the rinse aid.

There are a number of cosmetic products that also belong to the group of rinse-off hair care products.

Oils and waxes (olive, jojoba, monoya) improve the structure of the hair, regulating the arrangement of the scales, protect against adverse climatic influences and give the hair shine.

Diamonds, in the manufacture of which mineral oils are used. After using these products, the hair looks stuck together, and the film that covers it collects dirt and dust. More recent versions of brilliantines contain lanolin, a silicone derivative that improves the properties of this group of cosmetics.

Oils ("oil baths") exist in the form of fat- and water-soluble forms and require a longer exposure time. Fat-soluble oils are applied before washing, water-soluble ones - before and after shampooing. The disadvantage of this procedure is the weighting of the hair due to the incomplete rinsing of the oil. Some cosmetics for hair, for example sunscreen oils, called commercially medicinal, are not based on oils, but, in fact, are lotions based on polymers and surfactant cationic compounds.

Creams make combing easier and are suitable for all hair types. They are applied after shampooing and washed off after a while. They are more or less liquid emulsions and contribute to easy combing, giving the hair shine, softness and silkiness.

Healing balms and warm oil wraps are effective remedies for hair restoration after perm or sun exposure.

Indelible productsfor hair care after washing are represented by lotions, mousses, conditioning creams and cosmetic hair serums.

Lotions - specific products for hair care after washing (combing lotions and hair styling lotions); mainly intended for women who react negatively to even a small amount of alcohol in the preparation. These funds create on wet hair film, and when the hair dries, it maintains the shape of the hairstyle. Lotions can be transparent or translucent; they are light and non-greasy in consistency, suitable for all types of hair. The formulations are usually very simple to avoid the weighting effect of the hair. Lotions of this type give hair shine, volume and release static electricity. They can be supplied in cans or aerosols, or in propellant-free atomizers.

Hair mousses are another form of this product in high demand. They serve to shape and fix the hairstyle, when applied to damp hair, add volume to the hair after drying. By consistency, these are foams in which polymer particles are suspended. Produced in aerosol packaging with a dispenser.

Conditioning creams are applied after shampooing to make the hair easier to detangle, shine and soft. They can also be used to maintain the shape and hold the hairstyle. These are light emulsion creams, the composition of which is carefully selected. Instead of cationic surfactants, preference is given to polymers that are less substantial, which either do not remain on the hair at all, or remain in a very small amount.

Cosmetic serums are special products designed to improve the appearance of hair with damaged and / or split ends. These serums are usually formulated with hydrophobic compounds that protect and smooth the ends of the hair, make hair silky to the touch, while making it shiny and soft.

It should be noted that post-wash hair care products are not only intended for dry hair. There are many formulas for normal to oily hair that need these products to make combing easier.

... Treatment-and-prophylactic hair lotions

Types of therapeutic and prophylactic lotions.A separate group of therapeutic and prophylactic agents include special lotions intended for daily use. Depending on the type of hair and the problems to be solved, lotions can be designed for normal, dry, oily, overdried hair, against dandruff, etc. Lotions are of two types: one-phase type - aqueous-alcoholic transparent systems and two-phase type - contain an oil phase and a water phase, significantly more than oil.

The concentration of alcohol in the water-alcohol phase is about 35% and should not exceed 45% in order to avoid the drying effect of alcohol on the hair. At rest, the two phases of different nature are separated, therefore, the bottle should be shaken well before use in order to obtain a mixture of the two phases, which should remain stable throughout the procedure for applying the solution. In hydroalcoholic lotions, ethyl alcohol is usually used, rarely isopropyl alcohol. The presence of alcohol provides an antibacterial and tonic effect, helps to reduce the secretion of sebum and to quickly dry the hair.

Both types of lotion can be applied to both dry and damp hair. Lotions are rubbed into the scalp, massaging it to activate superficial blood circulation and facilitate the penetration of beneficial additives, then wipe the hair with a towel without rinsing the lotions. They provide hygiene to the scalp and hair, make it easier to create hairstyles and give the hair "vitality".

Prescription of therapeutic and prophylactic lotions.Hair lotions treat cosmetic imperfections such as dandruff, increased flaking of the scalp or excess sebum; heal and stimulate the scalp sensitive to stress and environmental pollution; promote normal hair growth; give hair softness.

Modern shampoos differ from the first shampoos developed in Germany by the Schwarzkopf company in 1933. But the quality of the perfumery and cosmetic products produced is still not high enough. So, surfactants give excellent foaming and provide a good detergent effect, but dermatologically quite tough. It is assumed that formulations consisting of surfactant, water and thickener will become a thing of the past, new formulations will be more balanced. In the future, conditioning additives will take a worthy place, not only neutralizing the electrostatic charge, but also delivering bioadditives to damaged hair areas, improving their structure. The importance of protective and restorative components in the shampoo will increase, since today, in conditions of environmental imbalance and the growth of fashion for hair dyeing, the traumatic effect on the hair is enhanced. At the same time, do not forget about the merciless UV rays and their harmful effects on unprotected skin and hair. Of course, silicones, vitamins, marine polysaccharides, cationic polymers, etc. should play an active role in the skin and hair protection system. Potential allergens - fragrances, dyes, preservatives - should also become safe. Without taking into account age, individual characteristics, hair type, scalp condition, consumer properties, the creation of new drugs will be simply impossible. They must meet the ever more high demands of consumers to meet their needs.

Final work

At the final stage of shampooing, you must:

· carry out a neutralization reaction on the hair;

· wipe hair with light blotting movements;

· comb your hair starting from the ends;

· offer additional services (drying, styling, haircut, etc.);

· take off hairdressing underwear.

· Preparations for improving hair structure

The following preparations are used to improve the hair structure: conditioners, conditioners, conditioners, conditioners.

Balms-Rinses in the form of a liquid, cream or soap include substances that compensate for the loss of natural lubrication of the hair, soften the hair, relieve electrification and give it shine. There are special additives that can neutralize the effects of chemical exposure to hair when dyeing or curling.

Acidic rinsesare used to restore pH levels and remove soap deposits from hair. The fatty acids in the soap combine with inorganic substances in the water to form a soapy residue that cannot be washed off with water. As a result, the hair loses its shine and is very difficult to comb. are. Currently, hair is washed with shampoos, not soap, so acidic rinses are practically not used.

Acid-balanced rinsesare intended for fixing the color after using dyes. They facilitate the penetration of dye molecules into the cuticle, which prevents hair from fading. Most often, these rinses contain citric acid and moisturizers that make hair soft and supple.

Healing rinsesReduces dandruff, improves the appearance of hair and makes it easy to comb.

Air conditioners(liquid and creamy) are used to make the hair easier to comb and give it shine. However, it is not recommended to use these products very often, as they accumulate in the hair, making it heavy and oily. This forces you to wash your hair more often, resulting in further hair damage.

The balms not only stabilize the pH of the hair, but also smooth the top layer (cuticle) of the hair, which swells and breaks when lye gets on it (hard water, shampoo, paint or permanent makeup). By smoothing the outer layer, the balm helps to make each hair more easily treatable and does not let harmful substances inside. The cuticle also helps protect each hair from water evaporation, which is a wasp. the main cause of dry and brittle hair. Most of the balms must be washed off with warm water, after which the hair of the cloths must be thoroughly dried. with light movements.

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Preparing the workplace;

We invite the client to the chair;

We wash our hands and disinfect the instrument;

We comb the hair and carry out diagnostics (determination of the presence of diseases, hair type and their condition);

We cover the client with hairdressing linen (2 towels - one is placed on the shoulders, the second is wiped off the hair, and a napkin is used to cover the client's face);

Pour the required amount of shampoo into a measuring cup or use a dispenser;

We regulate the temperature of the water.

Hair washing technology.

Moisten hair thoroughly with water;

Pour the required amount of shampoo into the palm of your hand for more convenient distribution on the hair and warming;

Distribute the shampoo evenly on the hair, starting from the hair roots, lather the shampoo on the hair in a circular motion, using the fingertips moving from the edge hairline to the center;

We wash off the shampoo and apply it again (hygienic washing is performed 2 times).

Further hair treatment depends on what kind of operation follows the shampooing and what kind of detergent was used.

Final cleaning work.

We carry out neutralization reaction, 3 types: balm – medicinal property 15-30 minutes; air conditioner- neutralizes hair, relieves electrification; rinse aid- neutralizes hair, closes scales.

Wipe your hair with light blotting movements;

We comb the hair with great care, starting from the ends of the hair, use a comb with sparse teeth, if the hair is very tangled, then we divide the hair into sections, and start combing from the lowest parts of the scalp;

Wet and damp hair must be combed very gently, since they lose strength when wet and stretch easily, especially those hairs that have been systematically curled, dyed and bleached.

Dialogue (additional services - drying, styling, haircut);

We remove hairdressing underwear;

We receive payment for services.

Head massage.

Massage- "rubbing", one of the most ancient methods of treatment. The essence of the massage is that by kneading the skin and subcutaneous tissues, we improve the work of the subcutaneous sweat and sebaceous glands, blood vessels, muscles, activate the endings of the nerves, increase the tone of the whole organism. The ability to massage and self-massage is a very useful skill.

Head massage improves blood circulation, strengthens hair roots, softens the scalp, which promotes better penetration of biologically active substances found in therapeutic emulsions, and also improves the functioning of the sebaceous glands, which prevents the appearance of seborrhea.

Massage is performed on clean, damp hair, necessarily with the use of medicinal preparations... Nowadays, all companies producing professional perfumery produce a series of preparations for the care and intensive treatment of hair.

Massage is performed in three types of movements: circular, pushing, stroking... Do not rub the surface of the skin, but press it against the bone and only then move it in circular or straight movements, as if probing, kneading and rubbing, feeling the bone all the time.

The massage begins with light, stroking movements - the scalp should be warmed up and washed, as it were. Gradually, the effect of the fingers increases, and at the end of the massage it weakens again, ending with light, gentle touches.

The first massage sessions should be shorter and the effect lighter - so the body will gradually get used to this procedure. You cannot start the massage very energetically and cut it off suddenly. After the massage, you need rest for 10-15 minutes(even if you are going to go to shampooing). It is not recommended to massage the head more than twice a week.

Head massage goals:

Improve hair condition;

Enhance hair growth;

Improve blood circulation;

Get rid of dandruff;

Strengthen hair roots;

Improve the work of the sebaceous glands.

Indications for massage:

Prevention of hair loss;

Disruption of the sebaceous glands;

Hypotension (decreased arterial pressure);

Strengthening the hair roots;

General relaxation of the client.

Contraindications to massage:

The presence of skin diseases;

Severe hair loss;

Hypertension (high blood pressure);

Nervous diseases (epilepsy) and head injuries;

Fungal diseases;

Open wounds skin heads.

Massage technology.

The massage is performed with three types of movements: circular, pushing and stroking at the same pace along the edge line of hair growth and finish them at the highest point of the head. Movements are performed clockwise. The massage course consists of 15-20 sessions every other day or 2 times a week.

1st movement- intermittent kneading in the area of ​​the brow arches. The thumb and forefinger of both hands perform 8 light presses in the direction from the bridge of the nose to the temporal cavities. Repeat 3 times.

2nd movement- spiral rubbing of the temporal lines. Work 4 fingers for a count of 4. Repeat 3 times.

3rd movement- intermittent stroking of the frontal muscle from the eyebrows to the hairline on the forehead, from the bridge of the nose to the middle of the eyebrows, from the outer corner of the eye to the curl of the auricle. Work 4 fingers for a count of 4. Repeat 3 times.

4th movement- vertical stroking of the frontal and temporal muscles. Stroking from the bottom up from the brow ridges to the hairline on the forehead with two hands alternately, from the middle of the forehead (first to the right, then to the left), reaching the middle of the forehead for the third time, direct the hands to the temporal hollows, where the movement ends with light fixation. Repeat 3 times.

5th movement- undulating longitudinal stroking of the frontal muscle, start from the right side of the face from the temporal cavity to the left temple, then repeat in the opposite direction and finish from the middle of the forehead to the temples. Performed with two hands alternately for the count of 8. Repeat 3 times.

6th movement- the temporal and frontal muscles are rubbed with both hands simultaneously from the temporal cavities to the center of the forehead along the hairline in three directions: longitudinal, transverse, circular by 4 at each point. Repeat 3 times.

7th movement- superficial rubbing of the scalp, performed along the radial parting from the edge line to the highest point of the head. The right half of the head is massaged with the right hand, the left - with the left for a count of 3 at each point. Support your head with your free hand. Run 1 time.

8th movement- deep rubbing of the scalp. Fingers wide apart are placed over the auricles. The scalp is displaced from the midline, and then a counter-shift is made, i.e. rubbing in opposite directions, then from the forehead to the back of the head, at the expense of 3. Repeat 3 times.

9th movement- circular kneading of the occipital and frontal lines of the muscles, performed with both hands at the same time, the thumbs are fixed on the back of the head. Movements are performed clockwise and back to count 3. Repeat 3 times.

10th movement- superficial circular kneading of the scalp, sequentially with the wrists, metacarpals and terminal phalanges of the fingers (2nd - 5th fingers) perform a circular motion along the radial parting for a count of 3 at each point. On the right side, they do it with the right hand, on the left - with the left, with the free hand they support the head. Run 1 time.

11th movement- light vibration of the scalp for a count of 3 at each point. Perform the same way as for the 10th movement, only vibrate with your hand. Run 1 time.

12th movement- stroking the skin with widely spaced fingers. Repeat 3 times.

Radial parting.

Let's get acquainted with the simplest and most affordable massage preparation - "Londestral"(German company "Londa") in the form of emulsion and intensive.

Emulsion "Londestral"- is available in a 1 liter package and is intended for the treatment of all types of hair.

Before applying the emulsion to the hair, it must be diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio (20 g of the emulsion and 20 g of warm water). "Londestral" is applied with a brush along the parting, starting from the occipital zone. If your hair is long, it is more convenient to apply along the horizontal parting, if the hair is short, along the vertical parting. Massage and soak on hair for 30 minutes. Then the composition is washed off with warm water without shampoo.

Intensive "Londestral"- usually comes in 100 g tubes and is intended for the treatment of a specific type of hair. Do not dilute the intensive before application, use from 1/3 to 1/2 tube. The method of application is the same.