France is one of the first countries to make a turn in fashion at the beginning of the 19th century. Thanks to famous French fashion houses such as Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Ungaro, Givenchy, Christian Lacroix, Hermes, Jean Paul Gaultier and other well-known names, designing and creating clothes has ceased to be a craft and has become an art. In addition, much of what we use now, what we wear, and what seems so natural and ordinary to us, first appeared precisely thanks to famous French fashion designers.

domination french fashion began in the middle of the 17th century, during the time of Louis XIV. It was then that the phenomenon of "world fashion" was born. Clothing gradually began to obey certain laws dictated by the French royal court. Even then, France made its contribution to the development of fashion: corset, umbrella, high heel, lacing on the bodice, lorgnette, cocked hat.

The name Coco Chanel is inscribed in gold letters in the history of modern fashion. Her first discovery was the men's English classic style for women. Short haircuts, jackets, knitted pullovers and plaid skirts, handbag on a thin strap over the shoulder and a small black dress, which has become a symbol of the elegance of the twentieth century ... All this was invented and created by Coco Chanel. She was the first to reflect the twentieth century in fashion, combining comfort and elegance in her works.

Her spirits require a separate story Chanel #5 that have become legend. In the past, the smell of one flower prevailed in perfumes - roses, violets, jasmine, lilacs, lilies of the valley, mixtures of various aromas in women's perfumes were considered indecent. AT Chanel No. 5 the fragrance of a spring blossoming garden was fragrant. By the way, Chanel herself used her perfume only in the city, in nature she preferred natural aromas.

The secret of Christian Dior's success lay in a new image of a woman, radically different from the fashion of the 40s. Women, tired of the war, wanted to be feminine and graceful. Dior created dresses for ladies with an aspen waist and sloping shoulders, and his puffy skirts took up to 40 meters of luxurious fabrics. The internal design of the model, which allows it to maintain a rigid shape even on a hanger, remains a mystery to this day.

In addition, already in the 50s, Christian Dior created several lines of clothing styling under "H", "X", "Y" and "A". Today, almost no collection is complete without "Dior" silhouettes.

The perfumery sensation of the late 20th century was a set of "poisons" from Christian Dior - Poison, Tendre Poison and Hypnotic Poison. A dark glass flask with a magic potion is a legacy of the Middle Ages. A sensual, spicy fragrance and a delicate plume of a bouquet of wild berries have forever remained the property of Dior.

Yves Saint Laurent devoted more than 40 years to the art of haute couture. None of the fashion designers were so inventive, none created so many styles. The beginning of the creative career of the recognized genius of the century fell on the 60s, the heyday of hippie movements and youth protest against all established traditions.

Innovator and inventor Yves Saint Laurent admitted that he only regrets that he did not invent jeans. But otherwise, the fashion of the last forty years owes him almost everything. Famous trouser suits, transparent dresses and tuxedos, mini has become as familiar as maxi, and black has become the color of the day. Yves Saint Laurent caught new trends in the development of society and exquisitely transformed the spirit of this rebellious time into haute couture.

His most famous perfume can also be called shocking. name idea and appearance vial Opium owned by Yves Saint Laurent. Like all great perfumes, this composition was created in opposition to the fragrances then fashionable: Saint Laurent challenged the perfumers of the Ruhr laboratory to create "something suitable for a Chinese empress."

Cardin is the standard of Parisian taste and chic. In his creations, the principles of classicism are intertwined with modern ideas and innovations. Pierre Cardin quickly found his own style: the silhouette became more and more straight and narrow, with very clear contours. This has become a hallmark of clothing from Cardin.

In 1949, Cardin made a revolutionary move by designing a ready-to-wear collection for industrial replication. The haute couture union expelled the designer from their ranks, but soon recognized such collections, giving them the name “ready-to-wear”. In 1958, he created the first "unisex" line, which united men and women on the principle of a common lifestyle.

Pierre Cardin enthusiastically reacted to the appearance in the 60s. mini fashion. The talent of the master was very much in line with her style: constructiveness, interconnectedness of parts and love for geometric lines. In addition, it was Cardin who invented and brought into fashion tights that match the color of the miniskirt. Cardin also came up with many forms and designs that, in different time conquered the world: straight and tapered "bag" dresses, "tulip" skirts, metal decorations, appliqués and patterns, a hard vinyl border on the hem and crinolines - "lampshades" under tight dresses.

John Galliano is a young Spaniard who lived in England, but became famous as a French fashion designer, he surprises with originality, courage and a cocktail of all kinds of styles, drawing all this from his imagination, emotions and fantasies. He is the lead designer of the Dior Fashion House. Mermaid dress, cut on the bias, with a train painted with lilies. And heels of dizzying height - such is now the Dior woman. Or rather, the Galliano woman.

Among Galliano's inventions are many clothes that were previously considered unsuitable for wearing, and now too traditional. These are, for example, skirts cut along the oblique or the original cut of the sleeve, invented by him back in college.

He loves quirks, heaps up jewels, embroideries, fringes, appliqués - and at the same time he can tailor a simple dress in such a way that it will be the ultimate dream. A born showman, he can describe with his eyes closed all the technical details of the cut of an 18th century vest.

Galliano is one of the few contemporary designers who actually knows how to sew clothes. Even in our time, when it is difficult to surprise modern society with anything, he, in the best traditions of French fashion designers, continues to shock the public.

The attachment:

In September 1939 The Second World War began, which had an impact on fashion no less than the First.

For the first time, women not only worked in the rear on an equal footing with men, but also fought at the front. And like the men, the women put on military uniforms.

In all countries participating in the war, measures were taken to ration consumption - food, fuel, fabrics and clothing were given out on cards and coupons.

The lack of basic necessities and the harsh living conditions led to the simplification of the costume, the emergence of multifunctional forms of clothing, material savings and "homemade" fashion.

Combined models came into fashion, when one new one was made from several old dresses. In wartime models, many structural details appeared - coquettes, plug-in wedges, which were made from a different fabric.

One of the symbols of military fashion was the turban, which was made from a wide variety of materials. It was extremely easy to manufacture and hid the lack of hair.

Stockings were the scarcest item of women's clothing during the war (it was at that time that the manner of wearing summer shoes on bare feet, without stockings and socks,)

At the same time, the skirts were significantly shortened, the shoulders became wider, and the waist was tightened with a belt. The wartime silhouette of dresses and suits was in the form of the letter X, and the coat was in the form of a rectangle.

Despite all the difficulties, wartime fashion still obeyed the requirements of the ensemble. A dress or costume must be worn with a suitable headdress and gloves.

Fashion magazines created the image of an energetic, well-groomed, beautiful and faithful girlfriend, which was supposed to strengthen the morale of the soldiers._

During the war, almost all fashion houses continued to work. The collections of French Couturiers were extravagant models, mainly designed for export to the United States.

The "utility" plan rationed the consumption of fabrics and materials, controlled sewing enterprises, the quality and prices of clothing. At first, the government controlled 50%, and then all 85 textile and clothing enterprises. Under this plan, clothing coupons were introduced.

Additional decrees were issued that controlled the amount of fabric, banned embroidery and sequin decorations.

The shortage of fabrics and clothing forced many to sew themselves. During the war, many pamphlets and magazines were published with detailed recommendations how to cross over old clothes, upgrade a hat or knit a sweater, under the slogan "get by with what you have and fix it"

"the theater of fashion" The hardest times for high fashion came after the Liberation. High fashion houses experienced hard times- there were not enough fabrics, the models were poorly sold out ..

"Liberation fashion" offered nothing new. And in these unfavorable conditions, in order to again draw attention to Parisian fashion, the project "t.m" was carried out, in which all fashion houses participated.

Then the idea was born to create a collection on a scale - on dolls.

The spring/summer 1945 collection was made and displayed on 200 dolls 68.5 cm high. The dolls had a wire frame body and a plaster head.

Sketches of the dolls were developed by the artist Eliana Bonabelle, made by the artist Jean Saint-Martin, and the heads were cast in his workshop by the Catalan sculptor Joan Reboul. For these dolls, each fashion house sewed models of coats, suits, day and evening dresses; for these purposes, the remnants of fabrics from previous collections were used, and special fabrics were woven.

Silk underwear was sewn for each doll, hats, shoes, bags and jewelry were made (by the famous jewelry firms Cartier and Van Cleef and Arpel). The scenery was designed by Jean Cocteau and Christian Berard.

this exhibition was visited by about 100 thousand people, then she went on a tour of Europe and the United States.

Pierre Balmain

Almost all couturiers in the 1950s. worked in the New Look style.

Already in 1947, all fashion houses, following Dior, changed the silhouette and lengthened the skirts.

Fashion trends were developed by famous high fashion houses before the war (Lanvin, Nina Ricci, Jacques Fat) and newly opened houses (Pierre Balmain, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Ted Lapidus ”, “Madame Carvin”, specializing in models for clients of small stature).

Despite the favorable economic situation, some of the "old" haute couture houses ended their activities: Worth (in 1953), Pa-ken (in 1956), Edward Molinet (in 1950), "Robert Piguet" (in 1951), "Schiaparelli" (in 1954).

One of the "big" fashion houses in the 1950s. became the House of Pierre Balmain. Its creator P. Balmain was born in 1914 in Savoy. P. Balmain showed an interest in art from childhood, studied architecture at the School of Fine Arts in Paris and drew sketches of models for sale (for R. Piguet).

In 1934-1939. P. Balmain worked for E. Molinet, at the beginning of the war he served in the army.

After surrendering, he found a position as an assistant at the Lucien Lelong House. In 1945, he left Lelong and opened a haute couture house at his own expense. At the first fashion show, Balmain showed long dresses with accentuated waists and flared skirts, similar to Dior's New Look.

This feminine and elegant style brought him success. In 1951 he opened a fashion house in New York.

In 1952-1953 The Sweet Madam collection was a great success, especially liked by American clients.

The Pierre Balmain house dressed Hollywood movie stars and American millionaires.

Balmain did not like experiments with form and silhouette, focusing on luxurious decor - his style was distinguished from Dior's models by a large amount of embroidery, decoration, and complex textures.

Jacques Fat, founded in 1937, was also a success among American clients. Jacques Fat was born in 1912 in Maisons-Lafitte.

He had a commercial education and worked as a broker on the Paris Bourse. After serving in the army, J. Fat took up modeling hats (the craft of a milliner helped out many in the 1930s - the demand for hats was great, since a headdress was an indispensable element of a costume).

In 1937, in his two-room apartment, J. Fat organized the first show of the haute couture collection.

In 1939, he offered models with tight waists and puffy skirts, anticipating the New Look.

J. Fat became one of the leading Parisian couturiers during the war, continuing to work in occupied Paris, and participated in the Theater of Fashion project.

After the war, "Jacques Fat" became a famous haute couture house. In 1948, J. Fat introduced the line ready-made clothes in the USA.

Veil models were distinguished by sculptural forms and expressive silhouettes.

It was impossible not to notice a woman dressed in an original and elegant toilette from Veil, so movie stars fell in love with his style.

J. Fat died of leukemia in 1954.

"New Look" by K. Dior

New style was born on February 12, 1947, when the first show of the collection of the newly opened Christian Dior House took place.

The creator of the collections of this haute couture house was 42-year-old K. Dior. Christian Dior was born in 1905 in Normandy in Granville.

His father, Maurice Dior, owned a chemical fertilizer factory, and his mother was an elegant Belle Epoque lady.

Mother for Dior has always remained the standard of beauty and elegance. From childhood he was interested in art, invented for himself and his sisters fancy dresses, but the father wanted to see him as the successor to his business.

In the early 1910s the family moved to Paris, where K. Dior studied at the request of his parents at the Diplomatic Academy, but spent all his time in the studios of artists.

Therefore, a compromise solution was found - his father allowed him to open an art gallery.

In 1928, K. Dior, together with J. Bolzhan, opened a gallery where paintings by S. Dali, J. Miro, J. de Chirico, J. Braque, M. Utrillo, K. Berar, P. Chelishchev and others were exhibited.

But the "Great Depression" began - Dior's father became bankrupt, having lost his factory and estate in Granville.

Deprived of financial support, Dior was soon forced to close his galleries (in 1932, together with P. Kohl, he opened another one), was left without a livelihood and fell ill with tuberculosis.

In 1934, with the help of friends, he was able to go to Spain and was treated there for about a year.

When he returned to Paris in 1935, his friend C. Berard, who worked successfully as a fashion illustrator in those years, advised Dior to try sketching for fashion houses.

Unexpectedly for Dior himself, this frivolous occupation began to bring in a regular income.

He drew sketches of hats for the famous milliners Agnes and K. Saint-Cyr, collaborated with the fashion department of the Le Figaro newspaper. In 1938, K. Dior received a job at the Robert Piguet Fashion House. At the beginning of the war, Dior was mobilized and served for about a year as a soldier of the 1st category - he dug trenches.

After the surrender, he went to the south of France, where his father, sister and former housekeeper lived, who sheltered them in her house.

In 1941, he returned to Paris, where he got a job at the Lucien Lelong House and worked with P. Balmain.

His models were successful, but L. Lelong did not allow Dior to deviate too much from the general direction of military fashion.

Disagreements with the owner led to the fact that in 1945 the house "Lucien Lelong" left P. Balmain and founded his own haute couture house.

The history of one of the most exotic fashion houses in France begins in 1939, when a boy named Kenzo Takada is born in the Japanese province of Kanzaki, on the coast of the island of Honshu, under the shadow of the ancient castle of the "White Heron" - Himeji. The fifth child in the family of the owner of the tea house has been dyslexic since childhood, and reading or coherent expression of his thoughts is a whole problem for him.

Avoiding the company of other children, he spends a lot of time alone, looking at his older sister's magazines, and falls in love with fashion. However, parents adhere to the restrictions traditional for Japanese society: in the Country rising sun only women work in the clothing industry, and it is impossible to break the established order.

In 1957, in obedience to the will of his father, Kenzo enters the university in the city of Kobe at the Faculty of Japanese Literature. Just a year later, he breaks down and, despite the anger of his parent, drops out and moves to Tokyo. There, gathering all his courage, he applies to the Institute of Design and Fashion (Tokyo's Bunka Fashion College). After passing all the entrance exams, Takada becomes the first man admitted to study.

After training, the young designer is engaged in window dressing in a large department store, then moves on to a fashion magazine. But he dreams of Paris... An old institute professor once said that Kenzo's place is in the most fashionable city in the world, the liberated and open to everything new capital of France. There is not enough money for a ticket, and the parents refuse to provide financial assistance to their son, who acted against their will.

But fate is on Kenzo's side. In 1964, the Japanese government began preparations for the Tokyo Olympic Games and demolishes dwellings that interfere with construction. The list also includes the house where Takada lives. After receiving compensation of 350,000 yen, he buys a ship ticket to Marseille. In January 1965, a Cambodian cargo ship, after a month's journey, enters France's largest port with a single passenger aboard Kenzo Takada.

Caught in a foreign country, without knowledge of French and money, he is forced to turn to his mother for help. And gets rejected again. In reality, life in Paris is far from what he imagined in his imagination. Without losing heart, Kenzo takes on everything: shearing and walking dogs, moonlighting as a house painter and a freelance designer in a publishing house. And he does not realize that his poverty and loneliness is a blessing in disguise.

In his free time, he creates for himself, but the only available material is the cheapest remnants of fabrics. Having nothing else, he boldly mixes various textures and colors, Parisian inspiration and Japanese traditions, and gradually forms his own and unlike style. Kenzo style.

Japanese influence is unmistakable in every model. “These are all memories of the mother. I was fascinated by her energy and the incredible grace of her kimono." In the early seventies in Japan, there were two types of kimono: simple and strict everyday and colorful festive, covered with magical patterns. It is the latter that especially inspires the newly-minted French-Japanese designer.

By the end of 1967, in Kenzo's tiny rented room, sketches fill the entire space and, having gathered his courage, he goes to the Louis Féraud fashion house in search of work. There are no vacancies, but he still sells a few drawings. Encouraged by this small success, Takada sends out sketches to all fashion magazines, and almost ten of them are accepted by ELLE. So, gradually, step by step, yesterday still unknown to anyone Japanese, the first clients appear, conquered by the color and unusual energy of his models. "It's a crazy time: work during the day and endless parties at night."

In February 1970, Kenzo decides to open his own store. This is just a small abandoned room in the Vivien Gallery, but for him it is his favorite brainchild, his life. He himself is engaged in repairs (here the skills of a painter came in handy) and even paints his favorite painting by Henri Rousseau “Dream” on the walls, ceiling and steps. The Japanese jungle store opens its doors in April 1970.

The debut show takes place in August. Despite the fact that everything is as simple as possible and the models defile in a small studio, the editor-in-chief of the French ELLE, the largest fashion publication, is among the twenty guests. Unique outfits full of life and color make an impression, and the same "Japanese jungle" appears on the cover of the November issue.

In the early 70s, high-class fashion designers fell under the influence of anti-traditional ideas and new values. Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Chanel, who dominate with their bon chic bon genre and make elegant but boring “lady wear”, fall into disgrace. Miniskirts and flared trousers are gaining popularity among the population. Takada with its enchanting colors, rich floral patterns and comfortable silhouettes forms a new paradigm of Parisian fashion.

The time of ready-to-wear begins, and ready-made clothes, in which the color of the unknown land of geishas and samurai mixed with the principles of Western fashion, turned out to be like a revolution. The brand is officially named Kenzo, and over the next decade, its huge success resembles a meteor explosion in its strength.

Kenzo plays with the palette perfectly. Intense greens, vibrant purples, blood reds, sunny yellows all come together without being vulgar or provocative. And his favorite flowers perfectly help to express purity, passion, and character. This skill is not available to everyone.

Kenzo becomes a fashion design pioneer free cut- oversize - having managed to create an aesthetic space between the body and the fabric. The silhouettes are reminiscent of the same kimono: straight lines, no arrows, darts and zippers. At a time when the public is tired of overly sexy clothing, his work sets new standards for 70s fashion: volume, plasticity and layering.

In 1977, the moment of real triumph comes for Takada. He shows his new collection in the infamous New York club Studio 54. Under the disco performed by the magnificent Grace Jones, models, including the famous Jerry Hall, go to an impromptu podium. For the late 70s, this is a real challenge! No one has ever held a fashion show in a nightclub, and the American public has been won over by the creative and daring Japanese.

Thinking about creating a harmonious image, in 1978 Takada began work on a fragrance. After two years of experimentation, the oriental, spicy, extraordinary perfume King Kong appears as a continuation of his favorite theme "Japanese jungle". Bright notes of banana and mint are stunning and fully complement the whimsical concept of the brand. After several years of success, perfume disappears from the shelves. And in 1988, as the official fragrance of the brand, the less exotic, but still attractive floral-fruity Ca sent beau is introduced to the world. By the way, the line of fragrances from Kenzo is still "exploding" -.

In 1983, Takada released the first men's collection, Around the World in 80 Days. The same message, energy and even flowers, but in a different interpretation. A Japanese man living in Paris is inspired by cultures outside the traditional west, and elements of folk costumes different countries and continents: Scandinavian patterns, Romanian peasant skirts, Portuguese purses, North African tunics, Peruvian ponchos.

In the 90s, the brand remains youth-oriented and extremely popular. Imperceptibly, excess volume disappears, and mini-dresses and tops come to replace it. But even following fashion trends, Takada does not change himself and remains the same as twenty years ago, when he only dreamed of conquering the fashionable Olympus - open, filled with joy, freedom and individuality.

Cheerfully, poetically and relaxed, Kenzo creates his extraordinary collections from season to season. What is approved by leading stylists and critics goes on sale, and the most creative works go to the archive. The most popular motifs - plants, animals and water - take on a bizarre form in the interpretation of the master.

Not only do the outfits contrast with everything that came before, but their display is strikingly different from the traditional one. He arranges a show in the circus, he himself went to the public on an elephant, spreads unusual tents in Bordeaux, tightens the square in Paris with fabrics. And in 1994, in honor of the first day of summer, the Pont Neuf Bridge was lined with ten thousand colorful begonias. As conceived by the designer, the floral “yarn” is intended to bring joy and smiles. Pleasantly shocked citizens appreciated the gift and smiled happily all three days while the installation existed.

In 1993, the brand was bought by the multinational luxury goods conglomerate LVMH Group. From that moment on, Takada resembles a general who has lost a battle. Twice a year, he hardly creates collections, like the mythical Sisyphus, doing useless, endless work. He is fond of ceramics, draws, goes in for sports - in a word, behaves like a pensioner.

On Christmas Eve 1999, Kenzo Takada officially announces his retirement and leaves for Japan. Another dream - to make art - begins to come true. Having abandoned everything, he begins to write, admiring the paintings of Matisse, Gauguin and Rousseau, takes piano lessons, studies architecture and travels.

In 2000, the Flower by Kenzo fragrance was released, which became the flagship fragrance. The symbol of the fragrance is a bright poppy. Next is the Kenzoki cosmetic line, which is popular. It is these products that become the main source of income for the company for a long period.

In 2003, the Italian Antonio Marras takes over as creative designer. Marras begins by carefully studying all the archives of the house. He explains it this way: “When I joined Kenzo, Takada had already left the company for almost ten years. It is necessary to fill in the gaps, return the values ​​of the brand, but at the same time give it new life. This is a special house with a unique DNA, and I believe that I should continue its history, not erase it. Marras brings European history, religion and Italian heritage to Kenzo's Japanese aesthetic.

First couturier in the modern sense was Charles Frederick Worth (Worth), who mainly worked in France, but had English roots. He considered himself not a tailor, but an artist and put his personal stamp on the clothes. He decided how the outfit should look, and not the client for whom these clothes were made. This immediately gave the role of the couturier a creative, artistic status. At the same time, the issue of intellectual property arose. Worth proposed the creation of an association of Parisian tailors, which in 1868 led to the formation of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Francaise. The task of this organization was to protect the creations of its members from indiscriminate copying, as well as to coordinate the activities of haute couture houses. Many Houses have been members of this group throughout its history, and a number including Jean Patou and Lucien Lelong, were presidents of this association after Worth. The organization is now part of the Federation Francaise de la Couture, du Pret-a-porter des Couturiers et des Createurs de Mode. Today only 12 fashion houses have the right to be called "Appellation Haute Couture".

Balmain

House haute couture Balmain was founded in 1945 Pierre Balmain. After receiving his education, he became a fashion designer and worked in such a famous House as Christian Dior. In early 1953, when European ladies still preferred custom made clothes, Balmain has created a ready-to-wear collection for the promising American market. The scope of his activities went beyond the market luxury clothes, he began to create clothes for theater and cinema, as well as uniforms for flight teams. After the death of Pierre Balmain in 1982, his assistant Eric Mortensen, who worked together with the couturier for many years, took on the responsibility of leading the House. 10 years later he was succeeded by Oscar de la Renta.

Chanel

Story Chanel fashion houses began in 1909 when Gabrielle Chanel, known as Coco, opened her shop at a friends house. In 1910 she moved her business to 21 rue Cambon, and nine years later she moved to 31 Rue Cambon on the same street, as her business expanded thanks to her great success. This independent, confident young woman quickly made a name for herself with her unconventional, modern fashion. Its triumphant march slowed down only because of the global economic crisis of the 1930s. In 1939, she closed her haute couture salon and concentrated on her boutique and the promotion of her perfumery until the end of the war. In 1954, she returned to her famous salon (located next to the Ritz Hotel on Place Vendôme), where she released a new, very successful haute couture collection, first in the US and then in Europe.

Christian Dior

Christian Dior belonged to a generation of talented amateurs, as he was preparing for a career as a diplomat. He debuted with his clothing models before starting work as a designer in 1938. In 1945, Christian Dior got his chance when a textile manufacturer Marcel Boussac appointed the newcomer fashion designer of the new haute couture house on avenue Montaigne. She also contributed to the prestigious reputation of Christian Dior himself as one of the most influential fashion designers. post-war years. After the fashion designer's early death in 1957, Dom a short time managed by his very talented assistant Yves Saint Laurent, which was replaced in 1961 by Mark Boen. In 1989, to the dismay of many traditionalists, the scepter of power of one of the most famous French haute couture houses passed to an Italian. Gianfranco Ferre.

Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix opened his haute couture house in 1987 at 73, rue du Fabourg Saint-Honoré, and is now the address of one of the prestigious haute couture houses. After studying art and history, Christian Lacroix took his first steps as a designer working for Hermes. Then, from 1981 to 1987, he worked as Artistic Director at Maison Haute Couture Patou. Lacroix loves rich colors bright patterns and sumptuous fabrics that reflect his love for the south of France and Spain. Although his creations are characterized as a bold stylistic mix, using unconventional colors and patterns that do not quite match the traditional haute couture image, Christian Lacroix is ​​considered one of the best Parisian couturiers. The reason for this was that his bizarre creations were able to interest young people and raise interest in French high art in dress. Also very successful was his ready-to-wear business (started in 1988), which proved the positive reaction of experts and the public. A year later, he launched a line of accessories, in 1994 he presented a collection of sportswear and in 1995 -. Christian Lacroix also designs costumes for opera and ballet.

Emanuel Ungaro

Being the son of a tailor Ungaro learned the art from his father. He developed his skills as a designer at the Balenciaga and Courreges ateliers. After gaining experience in running a small studio, in 1965, with the financial help of the actress Sonia Knapp, he founded his own haute couture house at 2 Avenue Montaigne. Unlike many of his colleagues, Ungaro does not draw his models with pencil on paper, but immediately puts them into practice. Ungaro's trademark is an unusual combination of colors and patterns, but it took several years for the public to appreciate it. Having carried out a successful marketing policy, Ungaro sold his company to the Ferragamo group in 1996, but continues to manage his fashion house. Since 1997 he has been assisted by a designer in the creative side of the business Robert Forrest.

Louis Feraud

Career Louis Edouard Feraud as fashion designer was very unexpected, since he originally studied to be a baker. But his remarkable aesthetic sense and unerring fashion sense led him to open his own boutique in Cannes in 1945. Encouraged by his success in the south of France, he went to Paris in 1953 and opened a boutique at 88 rue du Fabourg Saint-Honoré. Louis Feraud. In the mid-1950s, Feraud presented his first haute couture collection, based on a bold choice of fabrics and bright colors. On the design front, he always works with other designers to create the typical Louis Feraud style together: simple straight-cut clothes with folk accents. In 1965, he began producing ready-to-wear clothing alongside his haute couture collections, which were very successful in the US and Japan.

Givenchy

Hubert de Givenchy always been a gentleman among couturiers, and as a favorite designer Audrey Hepburn he also became widely known outside of the fashion world. Early in his career he created designs for Jacques Fath, Robert Piquet, Lucien Lelong, . In 1951 he opened his own successful business and in 1956 moved to a large estate on George V Avenue. There he created his own "couturier vision" that attracted many young women, although the minimalism of Givenchy's early collections may also have reflected their limited purpose. . Since his designs were in high demand among the haute couture clientele, he could afford to keep the press out of his presentations. This went on for ten years, but did not reduce his popularity in any way, on the contrary, his products became even more appreciated among the public. In 1968, Givenchy also founded ready-to-wear and perfume lines, including the famous L'Interdit. The scent was supposed to be called "Audrey Hepburn", but she banned it, hence the name of the perfume "Forbidden". Givenchy created all the collections of his House until 1996, after which the creative management was transferred to John Galliano. A year later he was replaced Alexander McQueen.

Hanae Mori

Japanese designer Hanae Mori was one of the first Asian designers to establish herself in the Parisian fashion scene. Mori has been the undisputed fashion queen of Japan for many years. Her debut in the fashion world was unexpected because she first studied literature in Tokyo. In the 1950s, she began modeling clothes for cinema and opened a fashion boutique five years later. Her love for the world of haute couture began in 1960 after meeting Coco Chanel. And soon Mori's dream was realized with great success - in 1965 she presented her first collection. Her creations soon appeared in many fashion boutiques. In 1972, her name became known outside of haute couture circles when she created ski suits for the Japanese Olympic team. She never forgot her dream: her own couturier salon in Paris, and in 1977 she opened her own fashion house at 17-19 avenue Montaigne. The recognition received in France has further added to her popularity in Japan, where she has created a fashion empire that she runs from her headquarters in Paris. Her clients are rich and famous people from all over the world.

Jean Paul Gaultier

The famous controversial designer of the 80s began his training in 1970 and worked in several famous Maisons including Cardin, Patou, Goma, Tarlazz before presenting his collection in 1976. However, success did not come immediately, and Gaultier experienced financial problems. He was able to solve them with the help of a Japanese fabric manufacturer and opened his own boutique. From that moment on, demonstrations of his collections began to arouse increased interest. Fashion shows became sensational events and almost turned the eccentric couturier into a pop star. The unusual mix of streetwear, uniforms, folkloric and avant-garde designs transcended all traditional fashion categories. Who are these clothes for, men or women? Is that or pants? Such questions are still absolutely indifferent for this fashion designer. He is not even interested in existing ideals of beauty. That's why he sometimes puts ordinary people on the catwalk, with flawed figures, and not light models. One of his famous clients is Madonna, who often wears his outfits on stage, making Gaultier famous in international world pop music. While his creations are neither classic nor ladylike, his fashion house belongs to the exclusive circles of "Appellation Haute Couture".

Jean-Louis Scherrer

Jean-Louis Scherrer is one of the most successful non-specialists in the fashion world, because he first graduated from ballet school, and then became interested in fashion design. He first designed theatrical costume before joining the Paris Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture for two years in 1956. Then he acquired practical experience, working as an assistant to Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Louis Feraud. In 1963, Scherrer found investors who helped him open his own fashion boutique on rue du Fabourg Saint-Honoré. In 1972, he moved to 51-52 Avenue Montaigne. Scherrer's fashions have always been luxurious, often reflecting Eastern or Asian influences. But the elegant creations have always remained unmistakably French, which is why Scherrer is considered a classic representative of haute couture. In 1992, he hired Eric Montensen as manager before leaving the fashion house he had created many years before.

Torrente

When representatives of the fashion world gather twice a year on the Paris catwalks, House haute couture Torrente, founded in 1969, is always in the spotlight because it regularly opens fashion shows with its elegant luxury collections. But Torrente is more than just a popular label among fashion experts and clients, it is also the latest family business in the select circle of "Appellation Haute Couture" and, above all, the only fashion house run by a woman. Today, the world of French fashion is dominated by men, although at the very beginning this prerogative belonged to women designers such as Madame Gres, Jeanne Lanvin, Madeleine Vionnet, Augusta Bernard, Callot Soeurs, Louise Boulanger, Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Today, Rose Torrente-Mette, who worked as an assistant to Ted Lapidus until she founded her fashion house in 1964, continues to follow in the footsteps of these fashion queens. She also makes ready-to-wear clothes. After she settled independently, the designer initially chose cocktail dresses and evening wear as her main focus, but later began to include daywear in her collections.

Yves Saint Laurent

Haute couture might have ceased to exist in the 60s if Yves Saint Laurent did not give him new vitality. The public first became aware of the young designer's talent when it was awarded the first prize for a cocktail by the International Wool Secretariat. A year later, 18-year-old Yves began working as an assistant to Christian Dior and became his successor after the death of the great designer. He presented his first collection in 1958 with the so-called "trapeze" line. Despite a promising start, the collaboration with the House of Dior ended in 1960 after Yves Saint Laurent presented a collection that was too avant-garde. Since then, the artist has created collections only under his own name, and from the very beginning he was successful. In the 60s and 70s, he excited and shocked the public every time, at the same time he was gaining more and more followers in the world of haute couture. In the 80s and 90s, this former rebellious designer came to be regarded as a respected creative artist whose talent was confirmed by numerous exhibitions. He finally retired from business in 2002.

Based on materials: Piras K., Rotzel B. “Lady: fashion and style guide“

Dior (Dior) Christian Dior could not find his purpose in life for a long time.

He studied at the Diplomatic Academy in Paris, tried to keep his own art gallery, in the fashion houses "Robert Piguet» (Robert Piguet) and Lucien Lelong. Finally, in 1946, Christian Dior opened his own fashion house.

Less than a year later, he became famous all over the world: on February 12, 1947, the Dior collection "new look" (new look) made a real cultural revolution.

Interestingly, fashion historians consider Dior not so much a talented designer as a good stylist and a competent entrepreneur who guessed what to offer the public and how to sell it competently. Yes, the silhouette hourglass" with fluffy skirt and wasp waist, which formed the basis of the New Look style, was not invented by Dior at all: this style was known much earlier. But Dior proposed these classic proportions “at the right time and in the right place”: in the late 40s, ladies tired of military asceticism wanted to feel fragile and elegant again.

After the death of Dior in 1957, the House was headed by his young assistant Yves Saint Laurent. Today, the Creative Director of the House is John Galliano.

GIVENCHY

Givenchy. Hubert de Givenchy is considered an aristocrat of the fashion world, not so much because of his origins, but because of the elegant style to which he was faithful throughout his career.

This style was said to be too sophisticated, and the designer was compared to a "little prince" creating his own worlds.

However, by and large, he did not create any style of Givenchy.
His main invention is the cinematic image of Audrey Hepburn, whom he met in 1953. Hepburn was then preparing to star in the film Sabrina. Designed for "Sabrina" dresses brought Hubert de Givenchy the first "Oscar" for costumes and turned Audrey into a "fashion icon".

Since then, she has become the permanent muse of the designer. So, in 1957, Givenchy dedicates his first perfume to Audrey - L "lnterdit: in the future, Givenchy House will become an active player in the perfume market.

In 1988, Hubert de Givenchy sold his house to LVMH, but retained his position as art director.

In 1996, the "little prince" leaves the world of fashion forever. Today, the tradition of the House is continued by Briton Ozwald Boateng.

YvesSaintLaurent

Yves Saint Laurent.

The offspring of an aristocratic family, Yves Saint Laurent owes a lot to his mother Lucien. It was she who noticed in a sickly boy a penchant for the profession of a designer and cultivated it in every possible way.

At the age of 19, Yves Saint Laurent entered the competition for young designers and became its winner - along with the young Karl Lagerfeld. After this victory, many doors opened before him: in particular, Christian Dior himself offered him the post of his assistant.

Yves Saint Laurent fully lived up to Dior's expectations, but his mission in fashion was completely different: if Dior's fashion was mature and elegant, then Yves Saint Laurent was always a rebel, an innovator who brought to fashion something that was not there before . He was the first to offer ladies tuxedos, trouser suits, sheer dresses and safari style. He posed naked for a commercial for his men's perfume (1971) and gave the women's perfume the provocative name Opium (1977).

Being a 100% creator, Laurent would hardly have been able to create his House without the support of a talented manager - Pierre Berger. Their collaboration began in 1961 and continued until the death of the great couturier: Yves Saint Laurent died on June 1, 2008.

LANVIN

Lanvin.
At the beginning professional activity Jeanne Lanvin made headdresses. Hats at the end of the 19th century were the main ladies' accessories, so things were going well in her hat atelier, opened in 1890.

Soon, Jeanne Lanvin switched to the production of women's clothing and by 1909 she had already acquired her own fashion house, famous for evening dresses: romantic and richly decorated with embroidery "a la XVIII century" and extravagant - in oriental style. The oriental theme was at the height of fashion at that time, and Jeanne Lanvin, who possessed not only the talent of a designer, but also an entrepreneurial flair, never lost sight of key trends.

So, in the 30s, when women's fashion wide trousers had just appeared, the House of Lanvin produced the famous evening “pajamas” for going out. And after the Second World War, he switched to the New Look style proposed by Christian Dior.

Fashion, among other things, owes Jeanne Lanvin one extremely useful discovery: she shared women's clothing for adults and children. Madame Lanvin was the first designer to create a full-fledged children's collection, not similar to clothes for adult women. The first to try it on was the daughter of Jeanne Lanvin - Marie Blanche. She inherited the House of Lanvin after her mother's death in 1946. Alber Elbaz is currently the head designer of the House.

CHANEL

Chanel (Chanel).
Gabrielle Boner Chanel was a great inventor all her life: she came up with not only a little black dress (1926), the first synthetic perfume in history that did not repeat the smell of any natural plant (Chanel No. 5, 1921), quilted handbags on a chain and suits loose tweed (1954).

She also thoroughly “worked” on her biography: she added something, hid something, and, like a true woman, pushed back her date of birth by ten years.

She started her career in a women's hat shop. And her first “full-fledged” fashion house opened in the resort town of Deauville, where the “rich and famous” spent their holidays.

In 1919, she could already afford a boutique in Paris - it opened on Cambon Street (where it still stands today).

As a designer, Coco Chanel never had her head in the clouds. On the contrary, she was too "out of this world", and her ideas were primarily practical. Her main talent was the ability to "rethink" well-known things and find new uses for them. So, at her suggestion, a men's sweater became a part of women's wardrobes, cheap jewelry and an "orphan" black dress turned into an evening classic, and loose tweed became a symbol of elegance.

Gabrielle Chanel passed away on January 10, 1971. It is noteworthy that only three suits were found in her closet: a practical look at things extended to her own wardrobe.