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Japan & France. History of the fashion house Kenzo. French fashion houses during the war Haute couture houses in france

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Paris is one of the most famous fashion cities with a rich history, majestic architecture, and an aura of love and romance. Millions of tourists rush to visit Paris, enjoy its originality, breathe in the scent of French perfume, and, of course, visit fashion week. It's no secret that Paris has long been considered the capital of fashion.

Paris fashion weeks

The fourth, major fashion week - the last and the most important at the world level - is held in Paris. The event is also organized by the French Federation of Haute Couture.

The first fashion show took place in 1973. A huge number of actors, designers, stylists, politicians and other celebrities rush to visit Paris Fashion Week - this is such an enchanting sight that this event has long been in the nature of art, not commerce.

Fashion houses in Paris

Fashion houses are the basis of the fashion week, and therefore it can only be held by the city in which these fashion houses are successfully developing. Parisian fashion houses, famous all over the world, present their collections to the public.

Paris is a trendsetter, and rightfully dictates its canons to the whole world. Here are the houses of Nina Ricci, Louis Vuitton, Chloe, Balmain, Celine, Chanel, Elie Saab, Cristian Dior, in a word, a huge number of talented designers work on the Paris catwalk. Twice a year they present new collections that amaze, impress with their chic, quality materials, fabrics, originality of the presented models (from classic to futuristic).

Paris is a city of perfect haute couture, a city of art, fantasy, a city of stylish people. Paris is unforgettable, it has a special, unique charm that beckons and attracts people from all over the world!

Dior For a long time Christian Dior could not find his purpose in life.

He studied at the Diplomatic Academy in Paris, tried to keep his own art gallery, in the fashion houses "Robert Piguet" and Lucien Lelong. Finally, in 1946, Christian Dior opened his own fashion house.

Less than a year later, he became famous all over the world: on February 12, 1947, Dior's new look collection made a real cultural revolution.

Interestingly, fashion historians consider Dior not so much a talented designer as a good stylist and a competent entrepreneur, guessing what to offer to the public and how to sell it competently. So, the silhouette "hourglass" with fluffy skirt and the wasp waist, which formed the basis of the "new look" style, was not invented by Dior at all: this style was known much earlier. But Dior proposed these classic proportions "at the right time and in the right place": in the late 40s, ladies tired of military asceticism wanted to feel fragile and elegant again.

After Dior's death in 1957, the House was headed by his young assistant Yves Saint Laurent. Today the creative director of the House is John Galiano.

GIVENCHY

Givenchy. Hubert de Givenchy is considered an aristocrat of the fashion world not so much because of his origin, but because of the elegant style to which he has been faithful throughout his career.

This style was said to be too sophisticated, and the designer was compared to a "little prince" who creates his own worlds.

However, he did not create any style of Givenchy, by and large.
His main invention is the cinematic image of Audrey Hepburn, whom he met in 1953. Hepburn was then preparing to star in the film "Sabrina". The dresses created for "Sabrina" brought Hubert de Givenchy the first "Oscar" for the costumes and turned Audrey into a "fashion icon".

Since then, she has become the designer's permanent muse. So, in 1957 Givenchy dedicated his first perfume to Audrey - L "lnterdit: in the future, Givenchy House will become an active player in the perfumery market.

In 1988 Hubert de Givenchy sells his house to LVMH, but retains the position of art director.

In 1996, the "little prince" leaves the fashion world for good. Today the traditions of the House are continued by the Briton Ozwald Boateng.

YvesSaintLaurent

Yves Saint-Laurent.

A scion of an aristocratic family, Yves Saint Laurent owes much to his mother Lucien. It was she who noticed in the sickly boy a penchant for the profession of a designer and cultivated it in every possible way.

At the age of 19, Yves Saint Laurent entered the competition for young designers and became its laureate - together with the young Karl Lagerfeld. After this victory, many doors opened before him: in particular, Christian Dior himself offered him the post of his assistant.

Yves Saint Laurent fully met Dior's expectations, but his mission in fashion was completely different: if fashion from Dior was mature and elegant, then Yves Saint Laurent was always a rebel, an innovator who brought to fashion something that was not in it before ... He was the first to offer ladies tuxedos, pantsuits, see-through dresses and safari style. He starred naked to advertise his male perfume (1971), and gave the female perfume the provocative name "Opium" (Opium, 1977).

Being a 100% creator, Laurent could hardly have created his House without the support of a talented manager - Pierre Berger. Their collaboration began in 1961 and continued until the death of the great couturier: Yves Saint Laurent died on June 1, 2008.

LANVIN

Lanvin.
At the beginning of her professional career, Jeanne Lanvin made hats. Hats at the end of the 19th century were the main ladies' accessories, so things were going well in her hat studio, which opened in 1890.

Soon Jeanne Lanvin switched to production women's clothing and by 1909 had already acquired its own Fashion House, known evening dresses: romantic and richly decorated with embroidery "a la XVIII century" and extravagant - in the oriental style. The oriental theme was at the height of fashion at that time, and Jeanne Lanvin, who possessed not only the talent of a designer, but also an entrepreneurial flair, never lost sight of key trends.

So, in the 30s, when wide-leg trousers had just appeared in women's fashion, the House of Lanvin produced the famous evening "pajamas" for outings. And after World War II, he switched to the new-look style proposed by Christian Dior.

Fashion, among other things, owes Jeanne Lanvin one extremely useful discovery: she divided women's clothing into "adult" and "children's". Madame Lanvin was the first designer to create a full-fledged children's collection, not like clothing for adult women. The first to try it on was Jeanne Lanvin's daughter, Marie Blanche. She inherited the House of Lanvin after her mother's death in 1946. Currently, the main designer of the House is Alber Elbaz.

CHANEL

Chanel (Chanel).
Gabrielle Boner Chanel has been a great inventor all her life: she invented not only a small black dress(1926), the first ever synthesized perfume that did not repeat the scent of a single natural plant (Chanel # 5.1921), quilted handbags on a chain and loose tweed suits (1954).

She also thoroughly "worked" on her biography: she added something, hid something and, as a true woman, pushed her date of birth by ten years.

She started her career in a ladies' hat shop. And her first "full-fledged" fashion house opened in the resort town of Deauville, where the "rich and famous" spent their holidays.

In 1919, she could already afford a boutique in Paris - it opened on Rue Cambon (where it stands to this day).

As a designer, Coco Chanel has never been in the clouds. On the contrary, she was too "of this world", and her ideas were primarily practical. Her main talent was the ability to "rethink" well-known things and find new uses for them. So, with her submission, a men's sweater has become a part of women's wardrobes, cheap jewelry and an "orphan" black dress have become an evening classic, and loose tweed has become a symbol of elegance.

Gabrielle Chanel passed away on January 10, 1971. It is noteworthy that only three suits were found in her closet: a practical view of things extended to her own wardrobe.

The history of one of the most exotic fashion houses in France begins in 1939, when a boy named Kenzo Takada is born in the Japanese province of Kanzaki, on the coast of the island of Honshu, under the shadow of the ancient White Heron castle - Himeji. The fifth child in the family of the owner of a tea house has been suffering from dyslexia since childhood, and reading or expressing his thoughts coherently is a whole problem for him.

Avoiding the company of other children, he spends a lot of time alone, looking at his older sister's magazines, and falls in love with fashion. However, parents adhere to the restrictions traditional for Japanese society: in the Land of the Rising Sun, only women work in the garment industry, and you cannot break the routine.

In 1957, obeying the will of his father, Kendzo entered the University of Kobe, the Faculty of Japanese Literature. After just a year, he could not stand it and, despite the anger of his parent, dropped out of school and moved to Tokyo. There, gathering all his courage, he applies to the Institute of Design and Fashion (Tokyo’s Bunka Fashion College). After passing all entrance exams, Takada becomes the first male admitted to study.

After training, the young designer is engaged in window dressing in a large department store, then moves to a fashion magazine. But he dreams of Paris ... An old institute professor once said that the place of Kendzo is in the most fashionable city in the world, liberated and open to everything the new capital of France. There is not enough money for a ticket, and parents refuse financial assistance to their son, who entered against their will.

But fate is on Kenzo's side. In 1964, the Japanese government begins preparations for the Tokyo Olympic Games and demolishes dwellings that interfere with the construction site. The list also includes the house where Takada lives. After receiving compensation in the amount of 350,000 yen, he buys a ticket for the ship to Marseille. In January 1965, a Cambodian cargo ship, after a month's voyage, enters the largest port in France with only one passenger on board, Kenzo Takada.

Finding himself in a foreign country, without knowledge of French and money, he is forced to turn to his mother for help. And again he is refused. In reality, life in Paris turns out to be far from what he drew in his imagination. Not losing heart, Kendzo takes on everything: shears and walks the dogs, moonlights as a painter and freelance designer in a publishing house. And he does not realize that his poverty and loneliness are a hidden blessing.

In his spare time he creates for himself, but the only available material is the cheapest leftovers of fabrics. Having nothing else, he boldly mixes various textures and colors, Parisian inspiration and Japanese traditions, and gradually forms his own and not unlike anything else style. Kenzo style.

Japanese influence is unmistakable in every model. “These are all memories of my mother. I was fascinated by her energy and the incredible grace of her kimono. " In the early seventies, there were two types of kimonos in Japan: simple and austere everyday and colorful festive, covered with magical patterns. It is the latter that especially inspires the newly minted French-Japanese designer.

Towards the end of 1967, in Kendzo's tiny rented room, sketches are taking over the entire space and, braving himself, in search of work, he goes to the Louis Féraud fashion house. There are no vacancies, but he still sells several drawings. Inspired by this small success, Takada sends out sketches to all fashion magazines, and ELLE accepts almost ten of them. So, gradually, step by step, yesterday the still unknown Japanese got the first clients, conquered by the color and unusual energy of his models. "It's a crazy time: work during the day and endless parties at night."

In February 1970, Kendzo decides to open his own shop. This is just a small abandoned room in the Vivienne gallery, but for him it is his favorite brainchild, his life. He himself is engaged in repairs (here the skills of a painter came in handy) and even draws his favorite painting by Henri Rousseau "Dream" on the walls, ceiling and steps. The Japanese jungle store opens its doors in April 1970.

The debut show takes place in August. Despite the fact that everything is as simple as possible and the models defile in a small studio, the editor-in-chief of the French ELLE, the largest publication about fashion, is among the twenty guests. Unique outfits full of life and color make an impression, and the very "Japanese Jungle" appears on the cover of the November issue.

In the early 70s, high-class fashion designers were influenced by anti-traditional ideas and new values. Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Chanel, who dominate with their bon chic bon genre and make elegant but boring "lady's clothes", fall into disgrace. Mini skirts and flared trousers are gaining popularity among the population. Takada is creating a new paradigm for Parisian fashion with its enchanting colors, rich floral patterns and comfortable silhouettes.

The time of ready-to-wear begins, and ready-to-wear, in which the flavor of an unknown land of geisha and samurai was mixed with the principles of Western fashion, turned out to be like a revolution. The brand was officially named Kenzo, and over the next decade, its epic success was like a meteorite explosion.

Kenzo plays perfectly with the palette. Intense greens, vibrant purples, blood red, sunny yellows stand together, but do not look vulgar or defiant. And his favorite flowers perfectly help to express purity, passion and character. This skill is not available to everyone.

Kenzo becomes a pioneer in clothing design loose fit- oversize - by managing to create an aesthetic space between the body and the fabric. The silhouettes are reminiscent of the same kimono: straight lines, the absence of arrows, darts and zippers. At a time when the public is tired of excessive sexuality in clothes, his work sets new standards for 70s fashion: volume, plasticity and layering.

1977 is a moment of real triumph for Takada. He shows his new collection at the infamous New York club Studio 54. Under the disco performed by the magnificent Grace Jones, models, including the famous Jerry Hall, take to an impromptu podium. For the late 70s, this is a real challenge! No one had ever hosted a nightclub fashion show, and the American public was won over by the creative and daring Japanese.

Thinking about creating a harmonious image, in 1978 Takada began work on the fragrance. After two years of experimentation, an oriental, spicy, extraordinary perfume King Kong appears as a continuation of his favorite theme "Japanese Jungle". Bright notes of banana and mint are stunning and fully complement the quirky concept of the brand. After several years of success, perfumes disappear from the shelves. And in 1988, as the official scent of the brand, a less exotic, but still attractive floral-fruity Ca sent beau was presented to the world. By the way, the line of fragrances from Kenzo is still “exploding” -.

In 1983, Takada launched the first men's collection, Around the World in 80 Days. The same message, energy and even flowers, but in a different interpretation. A Japanese living in Paris is inspired by cultures outside the traditional west, and elements of folk costumes can be recognized in his work different countries and continents: Scandinavian patterns, Romanian peasant skirts, Portuguese wallets, North African tunics, Peruvian ponchos.

In the 90s, the brand remains youth-oriented and extremely popular. Imperceptibly, the excess volume disappears, and it is replaced by mini-dresses and tops. But even following fashion trends, Takada does not betray himself and remains the same as twenty years ago, when he only dreamed of conquering the fashionable Olympus - open, filled with joy, freedom and individuality.

Fun, poetry and relaxed, Kenzo creates his extraordinary collections from season to season. What the leading stylists and critics endorse go on sale, and the most creative works go to the archive. The most popular motifs - plants, animals and water - take on a bizarre form as interpreted by the master.

Not only do the outfits contrast with everything that came before, but their display is strikingly different from the traditional one. He puts on a show in the circus, he himself went out to the audience on an elephant, throws extraordinary tents in Bordeaux, covers the square in Paris with fabrics. And in 1994, in honor of the first day of summer, the Pont Neuf Bridge is lined with ten thousand multi-colored begonias. As conceived by the designer, the floral “yarn” is intended to bring joy and smiles. The pleasantly shocked townspeople appreciated the gift and smiled happily all three days while the installation existed.

In 1993, the brand is acquired by the multinational luxury goods conglomerate LVMH Group. From this point on, Takada resembles a general who has lost the battle. Twice a year he hardly creates collections, like a mythical Sisyphus, doing useless, endless work. He is fond of ceramics, draws, goes in for sports - in a word, he behaves like a pensioner.

On Christmas Eve 1999, Kenzo Takada officially announces his retirement and leaves for Japan. Another dream - to make art - is starting to come true. Throwing everything, he begins to write, admiring the paintings of Matisse, Gauguin and Rousseau, takes piano lessons, studies architecture and travels.

In 2000, the fragrance Flower by Kenzo was released, which became the flagship. The symbol of the fragrance is bright poppy. Next is the popular Kenzoki cosmetic line. It is these products that become the main source of the company's income for a long period of time.

In 2003, the Italian Antonio Marras takes over as creative designer. Marras begins by carefully studying all the archives at home. He explains it this way: “When I joined Kenzo, Takada had left the company for almost ten years. It is necessary to fill in the gaps, bring back brand values, but at the same time give it new life... This is a special house with unique DNA, and I believe that I must continue its history, not erase it. " Marras brings European history, religion and Italian origins to Kenzo's Japanese aesthetic.

Lowe Dillon, daughter of Jane Birkin, the one in whose honor Hermès created his famous bag, once said: “The French style is inherent in arrogance. The Frenchwoman respects herself very much and is so confident in her sense of style that dictating to her what to wear or not to wear in a given season is, first of all, useless. " In my opinion, her words very accurately reflect the three main qualities of a Frenchwoman: unwillingness to compromise, self-confidence and detachment from reality.

To understand how to achieve the desired effect - to look fashionable and at the same time casual, let's talk about what they offer their clients today. real French brands of clothing, footwear and accessories... Most likely, their designers and stylists know, and on a subconscious level, what clothes, shoes and accessories to offer fashionistas.

My list of French brands for women's clothing looks like this (so that no one was offended, I have arranged the brands in alphabetical order):

  1. Balenciaga
  2. Balmain
  3. Ba & sh
  4. Céline
  5. Chanel
  6. Christian dior
  7. Claudie pierlot
  8. Faith Connection
  9. Givanchy
  10. Hermès
  11. Isabel marant
  12. Kenzo
  13. Maison margiela
  14. Moncler
  15. Morgan
  16. Nina ricci
  17. Yves saint laurent

In this article I will talk about ten French brands of premium womens clothing, in the next - about democratic or, as they are called, budget friendly.

Balenciaga

Established: 1919

Creative Director: Demna Gvasalia

Actually, the founder of the brand, Cristobal Balenciaga, is from Spain. Due to the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War, Cristobal moved to Paris and in 1937 opened his first store there. Christian Dior called him "an example for all of us," and Coco Chanel claimed that he is the only designer who truly knows how to cut and sew.

The late 1940s and 1950s are considered the "era of Balenciaga": the couturier created many garments that are still used in clothing design today. These are butterfly dresses, a bag dress, and a short coat without buttons and a collar.

After the death of the maestro, Balenciaga's ideas were developed by André Courrej and Emanuel Ungaro, but sales only began to grow with the arrival of Nicolas Ghesquière in 1997.

Currently the brand Balenciaga famous for its avant-garde stylistic solutions. Balenciaga always goes one step ahead of the rest; this brand is considered a kind of predictor of the fashion of the future.

Clothes Balenciaga are worn by celebrities Sienna Mueller, Emmanuelle Alt, Stephanie Seymour, Carolyn Trinity, Hilary Rhoda and others.

According to the publication Business of Fashion, in 2017 the brand Balenciaga became the second most popular clothing brand, losing only Gucci.

Balmain

Established: 1946

Creative Director: Olivier Rousteing

French couturier Pierre Balmand opened the first boutique in Paris. Clients of this fashion house in different years there were Vivien Leigh, Katharine Hepburn, Pity-Paul Belmondo, Sophia Loren, Marlene Dietrich and Jennifer Jones.

The lines of perfumes and accessories were launched in the 70s, in 1998 the brand Balmain released the first miniature women's chronograph, and since 2001 a women's Swiss watch has been produced under the same name.

On the official website of the company Balmain you can buy the original bag ranging from € 661 to € 1993.

Céline

Established: 1945

Creative Director: Hedi Slimane

Since 1996 the brand Céline is part of an international holding LVMH... Initially, Celine Vipiana and her husband Richard launched a line of luxury children's shoes, but since 1960 the company has been producing bags and accessories for women. Clothes, shoes and accessories Céline sold in over a hundred boutiques around the world, as well as in numerous online stores.

The minimum price of the original bag Céline is € 720, the maximum is € 3400.

Chanel

Established: 1910

Creative Director: Karl Lagerfeld

Coco Chanel introduced many elements of men's clothing into women's clothing. She was the first to suggest replacing tight and uncomfortable corsets with loose trouser suits and straight dresses. Thanks to Chanel women began to dress less pretentiously, but more comfortable, free and relaxed. External changes led to internal changes - women took an active life position and engaged in self-realization.

Despite the ups and downs in Coco Chanel's career, despite the fact that she collaborated with the Gestapo and participated in the conspiracy against Winston Churchill, her contribution to the development of 20th century fashion is invaluable. With her light hand tweed suits, strings of pearls, perfume Chanel No. 5 and Coco chanel as well as quilted leather bags on chains of golden or silver color 2.55, which appeared in February 1955.

Clothes and accessories Chanel not sold in online stores. Beware of counterfeits!

Clothes, shoes and accessories from Chanel were worn by Catherine Deneuve, Vanessa Paradis, Marilyn Monroe, Jacqueline Kennedy, Audrey Tatu, Keira Knightley, Nicole Kidman and others.

Original Chanel bags from the 2018 collection can be purchased in Chanel brand stores at prices not lower than:

Chanel PVC / Iridescent Patent Boy Water Small Flap Bag - $4,500.00
Chanel Braided Lambskin Boy Chanel Old Medium Flap Bag - $5,100.00
Chanel Embroidered Denim / Tweed Mini Flap Bag - $5,800.00
Chanel Tweed / PVC Gabrielle Hobo Bag - $5,000.00
Chanel Sequin Waterfall Waist Bag - $2,800.00
Chanel PVC Coco Splash Medium Flap Bag - $3,000.00
Chanel Medium Coco Handle Bag - $4,300.00
Chanel Printed PVC Coco Bucket Large Bag - $3,700.00

Christian dior

Established: 1946

Creative Director: Maria Curie

The first collection of Christian Dior, was presented in 1947 and was such a success that already in 1949, three quarters of the export of products of the French fashion industry accounted for Christian dior.

On the this moment Christian dior produces women's and men's clothing, footwear, accessories, cosmetics, watches, as well as underwear.

Currently brand Christian dior belongs LVMH.

Givenchy

Established: 1952

Creative Director: Claire Waite Keller

In 1953, French designer Hubert de Givenchy began a 39-year collaboration with Audrey Hepburn. Together with Audrey, who began her artistic career, they created a style in which elegance was combined with natural beauty. Hubert Givenchy sewed Audrey Hepburn's outfits for the films Funny Face, Breakfast at Tiffany's, How to Steal a Million and Charade.

At the funeral of John F. Kennedy, Jacqueline Kennedy wore a black dress from Givenchy.

In 1987, the fashion house Givenchy was bought by a French concern LVMH who also owns such Parisian fashion houses as Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Christian Lacroix and Céline.

In 1995 Hubert de Givenchy left his fashion house and retired.

For the wedding with Prince Harry, the actress wore a dress from Givenchy by Claire Waite Keller. The veil embroidered with a floral pattern and symbolizing the 53 countries of the Commonwealth of Nations required hundreds of hours of handicraft by the brand's craftswomen to make the veil.

Hermès

Creative Director: Pierre-Alex Dumas

Established: 1837

Initially Hermès was founded as a workshop for the manufacture of equipment for riding and horse carriages. With time Hermès began to produce ready-made clothes for men and women, perfumes, accessories, watches and jewelry.

The most famous products Hermès- bags Kelly- in honor of Grace Kelly and Birkin- in honor of Jane Birkin.

Handbags Hermès sew from calf, ostrich, crocodile or lizard skin. It takes from 14 to 18 hours to make one bag.

In 2015, after PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) accused Hermès of cruelty to crocodiles, Jane Birkin banned her name from her bags.

Collection of bags Birkin Victoria Beckham has over 100 units.

One of the bags Birkin made of crocodile leather, inlaid with 18K gold and set with 245 diamonds, was auctioned in Hong Kong for US $ 377,261.

Isabel marant

Established: 1994

Creative Director: Isabelle Maran

French brand Isabel marant produces clothing, jewelry, accessories and footwear. Launched in 2011, the heeled sneakers made the brand world-famous. Popularity of sneakers Isabel marant comparable to the popularity of boots from the Australian brand UGG.

Clothes and shoes Isabel marant worn by Kate Bortsow, Katie Holmes, Anne Hatway and Hilary Duff.

Isabel Marant sneakers are priced at $ 288 (if there is a seasonal discount) to $ 600.

French brand Louis Vuitton

Established: 1854

Creative Director: Nicolas Ghesquière

This French brand specializes in the production of suitcases, bags, belts, watches and jewelry, as well as sewing premium class clothing for women and men. Louis Vuitton is currently part of the international holding LVMH. WITH complete list of the companies included in the holding can be found.

Like the brand Hermès, Louis Vuiitton most famous for suitcases and bags. The brand releases them from the very beginning of its activity. LV uses leather and fabrics in the production of bags. Plaid fabrics, monogram fabrics in the form of the brand's logo and fabrics with red and beige stripes are very popular among buyers.

The brand is not happy with sales for reasons of principle, and all unsold bags Louis vuitton burns. This automatically means that buy the original bag Louis vuitton discount is not possible unless you buy it at a second hand store. Here is what is written on the official LV website (clickable screenshot):

Maison margiela

Established: 1988

Creative Director: John Galliano

Despite the fact, Martin Margiela is a Belgian, luxury fashion house Maison margiela was founded in Paris. The brand sews ready-to-wear and haute couture clothes for women and men, as well as accessories, jewelry, perfumes, shoes and interior items. Maison Margiela is renowned for its avant-garde and deconstructivist designs. Margiela cut clothes from posters, socks, fur hats and false eyelashes.

Martin Margiela does not communicate with photographers and journalists, never goes out to the public after the shows, and answers all questions exclusively by fax. The idea of ​​invisibility is brought to the grotesque by Margiela. For example, the faces of models at the show of the spring-summer 2009 collection were wrapped in nylon and hidden under wigs.

However, the brand Maison margiela is considered one of the most influential in the fashion business. Brand collections inspired designers Hermès, Mark Jacobs, Junya Watanabe and Prada... Maison Margiela has frequent collaborations with other brands, including Opening Ceremony, Converse, Swarovski, L'Oreal and H&M.

Designers are the authorities in the fashion industry who dictate fashion standards and trends to us. Each designer is famous and recognizable for something of his own, and each has a special unique handwriting. Some of these people become true legends in the world of fashion and style. How did they do it? Maybe they are just darlings of fate - or is there a desire to make their dream come true and a gigantic work behind this? What made them famous?

Gabrielle Boner Chanel (Coco Chanel)

The famous Mademoiselle is known today, probably, by everyone. She is quoted, they strive to imitate her. She had a huge impact on the fashion of the XX century, founded the fashion house Chanel, presented the world with her signature perfumes under the numbers. Coco got her nickname when she sang in a cabaret. She was an extraordinary, courageous and bright personality, with great willpower and impeccable taste. We owe her modernization womens fashion borrowing many elements from men's wardrobe, the popularity of versatile little black dress, pearls, tweed suits, little hats, costume jewelry and tanning.

Coco Chanel has made luxury practical. Most of all in clothes she appreciated comfort and embodied this principle in her collections. She said that "luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not a luxury." Among the clients and acquaintances of Mademoiselle were many world celebrities. In an interview, when asked what events in her life aroused her interest in art, she replied: “Living in orphanage under the supervision of nuns, I learned to sew. They taught me the basic skills of a seamstress, then I was already smart enough to understand the method. I really got my hands on and focused on design already in early age that's why I got famous clients so quickly. "

Chanel opened her first store in 1910 in Paris. They sold hats there. Later, clothes appeared in her stores. Interestingly, the very first piece of clothing that Chanel created was a dress made from a sweater. They paid attention to her outfit and asked where she got it, and in response, Koko offered to make the same outfit for those interested. She later said that her condition was "based on an old sweater I wore because it was cold in Daville."

Karl Lagerfeld

One of the most influential fashion designers, a man of phenomenal efficiency, multifaceted nature, owner of many talents. This world famous designer of German origin, he has been running the Chanel fashion house since 1983. In addition, Karl is a designer and founder of his own fashion brand, a talented photographer, director, owner of a publishing house and a personal library of 300 thousand volumes. Lagerfeld says about himself: “I am like a chameleon, several people live in me at the same time. For me, creating is like breathing. I don't even think about it. When I sit in the Chanel executive chair, I am Chanel. When I go to Rome and I’m at the Fendi House, I’m Fendi. I start working on a new collection the day before the previous one is shown. "

His Creative skills manifested themselves in early childhood. He studied at the Lycée Montaigne under the Syndicate of Haute Couture on the same course as Yves Saint Laurent. Lagerfeld collaborated with a large number of famous fashion houses, created fragrances, ready-to-wear, footwear and accessories lines. After creating his first fur collection for Fendi in 1966, which was a huge success, he attracted the attention of the most influential people in the fashion world.

In the 70s, Lagerfeld began to collaborate with famous directors and create costumes for the actors of the Teatro alla Scala. He breathed new life into the fashion house Chanel, becoming its leader and designer, saying: “Yes, she said that fashion is dying, and style is immortal. But the style must adapt, adapt to fashion. Chanel had a life of its own. Great career. It's over. I did everything to prolong it, and I continue to make it last forever. My main task is to try to transpose what she was doing today. Guess what she would do if she lived now and here, if Mademoiselle were in my place. "

Friends call Karl the Kaiser (Caesar, in German) for his amazing ability to do several things at the same time. He hides his age and worries that he does not have enough life to implement all his creative ideas. Lagerfeld loves books (he even created the Paper Passion scent with the smell of a freshly printed book), draws illustrations for works, cannot imagine life without photography, sews costumes for cinema and theater, produces perfumes, deals with his own brand, designs hotels, shoots short films and organizes exhibitions, produces women's collections.

Elsa Schiaparelli

The famous Italian designer of the first half of the 20th century, who is considered a surrealist from the fashion world, the main rival of Chanel, the creator of the ready-to-wear style. Elsa was born into a family of aristocrats, from childhood she studied painting, art history, loved theater. While working as a tour guide in Paris, Elsa watched as the wives of wealthy Americans were least interested in architecture and most of all in fashion shops. Presumably, it was then that she came up with the idea to shock the audience with unusual clothes.

Having met an emigrant from Armenia, whose knitted sweater Elsa liked so much, she persuaded her to create together unusual models clothes. The fruit of their labors was a very unusual black woolen dress with a bow in the shape of a butterfly. Through their work, they gained attention and received a large order from the sportswear store Strauss. It was this order that gave the glory of Schiaparelli and the factory knitwear Armenian diaspora. Elsa founded her fashion house. As originally conceived, she shocked the audience with her collections. They embodied her wildest fantasies and dreams, expressed something irrational and incomprehensible. Each item was unique. Many were created in a single copy. Hearts, constellations, hugging arms, snakes, giant flies, unusual designs, embroidery and fancy accessories - all this attracted attention and shocked.

It was Elsa who first invented the concept of "boutique" (a store selling small series of designer clothes). Many celebrities collaborated with Elsa and enjoyed purchasing her clothes. Schiaparelli had a contract with Hollywood. She was friends with Salvador Dali (it was he who suggested to her the idea of ​​a dress with lobster and parsley and a phone bag). Under the influence of Dali, Elsa created her most unusual things: a hat in the form of a shoe or an inkwell, gloves with pockets for matches. Jewelry was the embodiment of the strangest ideas, lollipops, medicines, erasers, pens, pencils, dried beetles were used as materials.

Elsa often called her fashion house crazy. The popularity of Schiaparelli's collections was immense, everyone wanted to have these strange clothes, even the Duchess of Windsor herself. But when she had to leave for the United States because of the outbreak of World War II, she seemed to be forgotten. Upon her return to Paris in 1944, her style ceased to be in demand. Chanel dominated the fashion scene and Elsa decided to leave the fashion world.

Both talented women were innovators in the fashion world, but completely different. Chanel worked within the framework of the classics, without focusing on brightness and catchiness. Elsa was extravagant, she loved to shock and provoke. The contribution of both to fashion is undeniably invaluable, although the Schiaparelli brand has not existed for a long time. Elsa's ideas and discoveries can be seen embodied in modern fashion, as if she was ahead of her time. Fancy color combinations, color "fuchsia" (shocking pink - this is also the idea of ​​Schiaparelli!), bottles in the form female body, fur shoes, ankle boots, unusual bags - all these are the ideas of the talented Elsa, who had a huge impact on the world of fashion and style.

Christian Dior

One of the most famous French fashion designers to whom we owe our ultra-feminine gowns in new look. He had artistic talent, and in his youth he dreamed of becoming a great artist. After his private Art Gallery went bankrupt, he went through difficult times, poverty and unemployment, but fate seemed to be preparing a different path for him. He began to design theatrical costumes, draw sketches for French fashion magazines... And these sketches became extremely popular, he began to collaborate with the fashion department of the Figaro newspaper, he was noticed. Decided to specialize in clothing designs, although sketches of hats were much more popular. Dior was noticed by the famous fashion designer Piguet, but because of the war, Dior's career did not start at that time.

Upon his return from the army, Christian began to work for the famous model house Lucien Lelong, where he learned a lot. In 1946, thanks to the funding of the textile magnate, the Dior fashion house was opened in Paris. At 42, he became famous, his first collection, which he himself called "Crowned Line", was recognized as revolutionary and had a resounding success. Just imagine the post-war period when women yearned for beauty and sophistication, for emphatically feminine and luxurious outfits. Dior, incredibly sensitive and talented, felt the mood of society, its desires and dreams. Parisian women were so tired then of masculine jackets and short skirts that they greeted the Dior collection with delight. Feminine silhouettes, luxurious and bright fabrics, tight waists, ankle-length skirts (either full or straight), small round shoulders - in this collection everything was the very embodiment of traditional femininity and charm.

But not everything was so cloudless. Feminists have criticized the collection, arguing that the return to crinolines and corsets is evidence of the oppression of working women. Many believed that after the war, luxury and flamboyance were inappropriate and blasphemous. However, despite the criticism, the new look fascinated the public. Dior's popularity was overwhelming, his name became associated with luxury and good taste. Each of his collections was awaited with bated breath, and each was expected to be a success.

Only in 1954 there was a moment that was a little dangerous for Dior's career, when Chanel returned to the fashion arena, who could not stand the "horrors of the 50s", as she spoke of Dior's models. But Dior very intelligently got out of the situation, releasing a new collection, light and casual. Different than before, but still the same feminine. The silhouettes were more natural, the lines softened. After the death of the great couturier, Dior's personal assistant once said that “if Dior had been alive, fashion would not have been in such a deplorable state as it is now”.

Yves Saint Laurent

One of the leading fashion designers of the 20th century, whom Christian Dior chose as his successor. Since childhood, he painted and loved theater, made home puppet shows, glued costumes and painted scenery. Laurent worked as an assistant to Dior and was fascinated by his genius, and Dior, in turn, immediately recognized the future master in the young man.

At 21, Laurent becomes the head of one of the most famous fashion houses after the sudden death of Dior and literally saves the brand from financial ruin. He presented his first women's collection of a softer and lighter version of the new bow with a trapezoid silhouette. Laurent was the first to introduce French fashion to the USSR (1959), arriving here with 12 models.

There seemed to be bright prospects ahead as a successor to the late Dior's expectations. But not without envy and troubles, however. The owner of the Dior fashion house (Marcel Boussac) is rumored to have insisted that Saint Laurent be sent to military service to Africa, thereby wanting to get rid of the designer. There he also learns that he has been fired from the Dior fashion house.

In 1961, the Yves Saint Laurent brand appears (Yves Saint Laurent), his first collection was a great success. Oriental motives, bright colors, inspiration from African countries. Saint Laurent also produces perfumes, works as a theater artist, and creates sets and costumes.

The ideas of Laurent's subsequent collections also received great recognition and became a kind of fashionable classics: women's tuxedos (later they became a trademark of the brand), trouser suits, high boots, high-necked sweaters, black leather jackets, safari style dresses, ethnic motives. Laurent becomes the first designer to launch a full-fledged ready-to-wear line, as well as the first designer to receive an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum during his lifetime.

Giorgio Armani

The Italian fashion designer is called the pioneer of 20th century fashion, a master of tailoring, an adherent of quality and a great esthete. Since childhood, Giorgio loved art and theater, he himself painted and sewed outfits for dolls. He had a dream to become an actor, but his parents insisted on the profession of a doctor. After two years of study, Giorgio dropped out of university. He found himself in the fashion world. Armani created his own brand in 1974, and before that he worked as a window designer in a large chain department store, and also created men's clothing for Nino Cerruti.

Armani's professional skills in working with fabric led to the fact that, in fact, thanks to him, the approach to sewing men's clothing has completely changed. Lightness and smoothness appeared, which, along with simplicity and brevity, provide his products with special chic and convenience. After the overwhelming success of the men's collection, Armani began to present women's collections as well, paying particular attention to working women. In his collections, traditional views harmoniously coexist with the most current trends... He modernized the classics with great grace and taste. Luxurious materials, experiments with fabric combinations, functionality and versatility, casual elegance are the hallmarks of Armani's collections.

Ralph Lauren

The famous American designer, who is called the king of the ready-made dress, “who opened America to America”. His company (Polo Ralph Lauren Corporation) produces accessories, clothing, linen, textiles, furniture, wallpaper, perfumes, and tableware. Lauren has been named Designer of the Year three times and has been named Fashion Legend by the US Design Council. For many people, Ralph Lauren is an example of how a person from a low social stratum can reach great heights with a dream and talent. A native of Belarus (his parents met and got married in the USA), from a poor a large family Ralph set himself the goal of being successful from a young age. He was struck by a classmate's wardrobe, which belonged only to him, and in which the clothes were so neatly laid out. In Ralph's apartment, there was one closet for everyone. Since then, the future designer decided to work and save money for his dream.

Interestingly, Lauren does not have a diploma in fashion, but at the same time he is one of the world's best designers. He himself does not sew clothes, but is an inspiration, a designer, he thinks over each collection to the smallest detail. The designer himself says: “I never went to fashion school - I was a young guy who had his own style. I could not imagine that "polo" will become what it is. I just followed my instincts. "

At first, Ralph worked as a salesman (selling clothes, gloves and ties), then he became a tie designer, created in principle new model(he was inspired by The Great Gatsby novel): a wide silk tie (while thin ties were in fashion then). Thanks to the investor, Lauren and her brother opened a store and their own brand, Polo Fashion. People wanted quality and stylish things and accessories, the brand was gaining more and more popularity. Lauren produced collections of ready-to-wear clothes (first for men and then for women) and accessories. He was the only one who began to produce sports shirts in 24 shades.

Loren's collections combine chic, sophistication and at the same time ease, simplicity and brightness. “My clothes are a vision of what I believe in. Someone once told me that I am a writer. It's true - I write through my clothes. She embodies history, not just clothes, ”said Lauren. Ralph's wife inspired him to create women's clothing collections: “My wife has good taste and her own style. When she wore shirts, sweaters, and jackets bought in men's stores, people always asked where she got it. I associated her appearance with the young Katharine Hepburn - a rebellious girl on a horse with hair fluttering in the wind. I made shirts for her. " Lauren introduced western style clothing. And polo shirts never seem to go out of style.

The boy Ralph's dreams have come true: he is one of the richest people in the world, he has a strong family, three children, he owns a ranch and is one of the world's largest collectors of vintage cars.

Roberto Cavalli

The famous Italian designer asks himself to be called a "fashion artist" and is renowned for his exotic and spectacular collections of clothing and accessories. His fashion house adheres to the philosophy of femininity, chic and bright temperament. The designer himself said in an interview that his fashion “became successful and relevant, because other designers continued to produce monotonous things ... For a long time, designers tried to dress women on a par with men. I changed this trend. I try to emphasize with clothes the feminine, sexy side that is present in every woman. "

Cavalli's talent was greatly influenced by his grandfather, the famous artist Giuseppe Rossi, and his mother, who was a dressmaker and designer. As a child, helping his mother with sewing clothes, Cavalli realized that he wanted to do design and fashion. He was one of the best students of the Academy of Fine Arts in Florence, he studied the technology of creating printing on textiles. Even then, he created a series of floral prints that interested large factories in Italy. Cavalli always loved to experiment, while still studying at the Academy, he began to invent different ways dyeing leather and fabric, he was then only 20 years old.

And so, these experiments led to the fact that in the early 70s Cavalli himself invented and patented a system for printing on leather, which allowed him to dye it in six different colors. This revolutionary invention instantly became popular with various fashion houses. Stretch denim jeans are another hit from Cavalli that has brought prosperity and success to the House.

Roberto Cavalli's bright and extravagant clothes are in great demand among fashionistas all over the world, they are worn by the most glamorous celebrities on the planet. Cavalli believes that a woman should have character and a strong personality. In one of his interviews, he said: "Beauty comes from within, and is a reflection of the individuality of each person ... Beauty is a visiting card that helps when you first meet, but is completely useless when you second."

Valentino Garavani

The founder of the Valentino fashion house, a famous Italian fashion designer loved to draw from childhood, in his youth he loved art and was interested in fashion. He was an apprentice, studied at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, and at the École des Haute Couture. He worked in several fashion houses, then opened his own atelier. His works were distinguished by their refinement, excellent cut, expensive fabrics, hand-made decor, and sophistication. In 1960, the Valentino brand appeared.

Thanks to a meeting with the architect Giametti, the future director general fashion house, Valentino gets the opportunity to engage only in creativity, without delving into the intricacies of business. He himself said: "I only know how to draw dresses, receive guests and decorate a house, but I don't understand anything in business." In one of the collections of the 60s, red outfits were present, which later became the hallmark of the Valentino fashion house. The designer says: “Red is the best color. It suits any woman, you just need to remember that there are more than 30 different shades of this color. "

For many years, the designer has dressed celebrities, many of them preferred to purchase exquisite wedding dresses from him. Among his clients were such legendary personalities as Jacqueline Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor. At the Oscars, many actresses shone in Valentino outfits. In 2007, the famous fashion designer announced his retirement from the fashion world, and in 2008, at the Haute Couture Week in Paris, a farewell show was held, where all models took to the catwalk in red dresses, and the audience gave a standing ovation.