Classification and range of jewelry The generally accepted classification of jewelry is grouping them into groups according to their purpose: personal jewelry, toiletry items, smoking accessories, table setting items, stationery,

3.2. Classification of jewelry materials 3.3b is a classifier of materials from which jewelry is made. Most of them are made of copper-based alloys and precious metals. To a lesser extent, alloys are used on

P. 5. New material for making jewelry Recently appeared new material, which, after giving it the desired shape and subjected to heat treatment, turns into a monolithic metal product of the desired color. This material is called metallic clay.

APPROVE
First Deputy
Chairman of the State
customs committee
Russian Federation
M.K. Egorov
January 11, 1999
N 01-23/1360

Introduction

These guidelines have been developed to assist specialists and officials of the customs authorities involved in the procedure for examining jewelry in order to most objectively reflect in the protocol of the procedural action information about the quantity, individual characteristics, weight and value of products.

The inspection is carried out at the scene or in the office (laboratory), visually or using technical means, always in the presence of witnesses, in some cases with the participation of a professional specialist (jeweler, merchandiser, art historian, chemist, etc.). At the same time, the official of the customs body conducting the procedural actions must provide conditions that guarantee the safety of products made of precious metals and precious stones. All products are numbered according to the chronology of their discovery, inspection and seizure.

Inspection of items should be carried out as soon as possible in order to prevent their loss, damage or their confusion with items seized in other episodes.

Appropriate designations are affixed to the items being inspected or to the labels attached to them. Accounting designations are applied in such a way that they can be easily read, removed, and that they do not violate the appearance and do not reduce the artistic and other value of objects. On the jewelry labels are hung on a heavy thread with the appropriate numbers and designations, signatures of the investigator, specialist, witnesses and seal. (The numbering order of items specified in the inspection report is observed when appointing an examination, conducting it by experts, as well as during subsequent investigative actions (to avoid confusion with items that have similar plots, sizes, shapes, etc.)).

The description of objects must begin with the name of its main subject word, for example: "jewelry ring ...". The word "scrap" must be added to the main subject word, if the object is in a destroyed or deformed state (there are traces of rupture, there are no stone inserts, there are no locks on chains and bracelets, etc.).

For jewelry, measurements are in millimeters; for rings - ring size by inner diameter; for rectangular objects - height and width; for round and ellipsoid - the largest diameter. When measuring, it is forbidden to use a soft centimeter, you should use a rigid ruler and other measuring instruments (compasses, calipers, etc.).

Weight is indicated for items made of precious metals and stones, regardless of the material, as well as for samples of valuable materials and large crystal druse. For gold, platinum and palladium jewelry, the weight is indicated to the second decimal place, and for silver jewelry - to the first decimal place.

When describing the state of preservation of a thing, all existing defects are indicated: for example, cracks, chips, breaks, breakages, swelling, scree of the paint layer, the absence of any part or detail of the object, etc. In this case, the location and extent of such damage are indicated.

If there are several identical items, when drawing up the protocol, they can be combined into groups, and the number of items in this group is indicated.

In the course of preliminary diagnostics of the material of jewelry, in addition to traditional testing methods (touchstone, reagents, etc.), any other methods can be used to determine the material from which the jewelry is made. The names of devices, means and methods of diagnostics are reflected in the protocol.

Such a scrupulous description will make it possible to accurately identify the object, not to confuse it with other similar objects, and excludes the possibility of deliberate or careless substitution of material evidence.

When conducting an inspection and drawing up a protocol, the following order of inspection and description of jewelry (or groups of identical products) should be followed:

Assigning a serial number of the product;

Description of the product name with indication of individual identification features;

Indication of the weight of the product and, if necessary, its dimensions;

Establishing the degree of safety of the product with an indication of the existing defects;

Enumeration of instruments, means and methods of preliminary diagnostics used during the examination.

In the absence of preliminary diagnostics, the product descriptions do not indicate the specific names of the materials that make up the products. For example: "... a yellow metal ring with a white metal custom and a transparent blue insert...".

Rings

Ring - product for hands

Precious metal (jewelry);

Artistic product made of nickel silver and cupronickel;

Product mass production from non-precious metals (a piece of jewelry haberdashery).

By type of decorative finish, jewelry made with

By technological features

Mounted (made by hand, as well as using stamped or cast parts, chased or scanned elements);

Filigree (scanned) (made by hand from a smooth or twisted wire blank);

Cast (obtained by casting into a mold, which can be manually finished, can imitate any technique for the production of products manufactured by jewelry enterprises);

Pressed and machine-assembly (obtained using various machines with manual refinement).

The ring can be simple or complex.

Simple - wedding rings

Oval, having a segment shape in cross section;

Flat, having a rectangular cross-section;

Rings with a stone (rings), consisting of a simple caste (frame for insertion) and a shank (rim wrapped around a finger)

Complex - with overlays, openwork castes, with filigree elements, decorated with enamel, niello, engraving, embossing, enamel, gilding, silvering, oxidation.

Design:

1 - tavern

2 - overlay

3 - welt

4-caste

Structurally, the ring consists of two parts:

Lower (shank or rim);

Top or apex.

The shank of the ring is soldered to the cast (frame for insertion), welt (contour rim soldered to the cast from below). Overlay (a detail of the top, which can be smooth, have an engraved, chased or stamped pattern).

Cast - according to the principle of holding a stone, it can be of two types:

Deaf (the stone is held by solid walls around the entire perimeter of the caste)

a - general view;

b - fastening belt;

v- welt;

For small (up to 3 mm in diameter) round stones, segments of thick-walled (0.4-0.6 mm) tsarg tubes are used as deaf castes. The inner diameter of the side of the tube is smaller, and the outer diameter is greater than the diameter of the insert: the diameter of the stone corresponds to the average diameter of the side. The height of the drawer is not less than the height of the insert.

Pronged (the stone is held by separate stands (prongs) carved in the caste or soldered onto it).

a - prong part;

b - window part;

1 - cock;

2 - backlash;

3 - bowl;

4 - window;

5 - rant

Manual work in the manufacture of casts can be imitated by foundry semi-finished products obtained by casting on melted patterns.

Rant - the lower contour rim soldered to the caste or the top of the castes.

The size of the ring corresponds to the inner diameter of the shank (from 15 to 25 mm). The subsequent size of the ring differs from the previous one by 0.5 mm. To determine the dimensions, there is a crossbar-ring gauge, a metal cone with divisions corresponding to the sizes of the rings, as well as a ring gauge, consisting of finger gauge rings.

Earrings

Earrings - paired jewelry for the head, the variety of which has no limit. The peculiarity of the earrings is that, regardless of the design of the product, one earring should be a mirror match of the other (pair). In addition to the drawing, there must be correspondence in mass, size, color of metal and stones, etc.

Earrings are worn by threading hooks through the earlobes. The front part is a stone in the frame or the top, and the means of holding the earring is a lock or a hook. A variety of earrings can be represented not only by the variety of the front part, but also by the types of fasteners. Fasteners can range from simple wire with a latch and loose to complex in design with snap locks. In addition to the fact that the lock itself can be an ornament of the product, strict requirements are imposed on it. It should be simple and reliable in operation, durable, commensurate with the earring.

Design:

Base;

Cast to insert;

overlay;

Suspension;

castle part

1 - fastener;

2 - hook;

3 - base;

4 - insert;

7 - suspension

A distinctive feature of earrings from other jewelry are earring devices or locks: hinged hooks free and with loops, spring locks with jewelry and haberdashery earwires.

Earrings on hooks:

Hinged hooks differ in their ability to be closed (fixed in the pressed position) with a loop.

Loose hook;

Hook with a loop lock;

The loop.

a - free hook;

b - hook with a loop lock;

in-loop

Earrings with spring lock (jewelry):

Spring locks consist of two main parts: spring hook and fasteners. Structurally, all fasteners consist of a beak and a tail.

a - the closed position of the lock;

b - open position of the lock;

1 - spring hook;

2 - checkbox;

3 - fasteners

Brooch - women's jewelry, which is applied to the dress (suit, etc.). The sizes of brooches, as a rule, exceed the sizes of rings and earrings (in terms of the area of ​​the front part), so the possibilities for a variety of tops are much higher. The limits of using stones in brooches are very wide - from a single stone to many different sizes and color scheme. The most diverse forms of tops from strict to abstract, often in the form of plant elements (leaves, branches) or in the form of representatives of the animal world (birds, insects), etc.

Design:

1 - castle part;

2 - insert;

3 - castes;

4 - base

The brooches consist of a base, a cast for inserts, onlays, and a lock part. The front part of the brooch is the decoration, the back part is equipped with a pin, which is hinged to the back part of the brooch and is fixed with a lock in the closed position.

Pendants

Pendant - chest or sewing pendant. The pendant is worn on a chain, lace or necklace, below the level of the neck, both under the body and over the dress.

The pendant is connected to the chain with one link (eye) and can be of various styles - from a single stone with an eye to a complex top with many stones or other decorating elements. The dimensions of the hanging eye are chosen based on the passage of the eye of the chain through it to replace the chain or replace the pendant. The top of the pendant can be made similarly to the tops of other items (rings, earrings, brooches), but its shape is most often elongated vertically. A number of pendants are additionally provided with a pin for attaching to the dress and are then called a pendant brooch.

Pendant design:

1 - base;

2 -castes;

3 - hanging eye;

4 - connecting ear;

5 - insert

medallions

Medallion - a small oval neck decoration, suspended from a ribbon or chain, most often made of gold or silver.

Design:

1 - case;

2 - chain;

3 - connecting and hanging eyelet

Necklace - neck decoration, consisting of one or more pendants, representing a single ensemble with a chain. The pendant can have multiple attachment points to the chain, and the chain is part of the overall decoration.

The necklace is worn at the level of the neck.

There are a lot of varieties of necklaces, they can consist of a large number of stones and can be without stones, but it is always an elastic, movable connection of parts that allows the product to fit snugly against the body even with a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe product.

Design:

Includes lock chain and multiple connected or unconnected pendants various forms and sizes with decorative trim and located in the central part of the chain.

1 - a chain with a lock;

2 - suspension

necklaces

Necklace - neck female jewelry.

Design:

The necklace consists of a flexible hoop or chain with castes for inserts, as well as separate, different in shape, details.

complex weave, decorated with inserts of precious or semi-precious stones.

Hairpins

A hairpin is an ornament that is used to fasten a tie or as a fastener instead of buttons.

Outwardly, the hairpin is very similar to ordinary needles, the non-pointed end of which ends in a rounded thickening - the head.

Hairpins are of two types:

With a long needle;

A short needle made of precious or non-ferrous metals.

For fastening faceted stones in a hairpin, castes are provided; pearls, turquoise, amber, coral are fastened in a hairpin with a pin (for this, holes are drilled in them).

Design:

1 - insert;

2 - base;

chains

Chain - chest or neck decoration.

In modern jewelry production, chains, as a rule, are made in large batches in a mechanized way on chain knitting semi-automatic machines and automatic machines.

By type, the links of the chain are divided into:

Anchor;

armored;

Combined (weaving is indicated: anchor, armored, twisted and the shape of the links);

fantasy

Links of anchor chains are located in mutually perpendicular planes, shell - in one plane. The links of fantasy chains have a complicated configuration, and the combined chains consist of links of various forms of weaving.

Types of chain links:

Beads - chest or neck decoration.

Design:

Beads consist of beads, intermediate links, thread.

1 - lock;

2 - bead;

3 - thread

For short beads, a lock is provided. Beads in the collection can be of one or different sizes, round oval, barrel-shaped, flat figured shapes, one color or several colors at the same time, with a surface either smooth or decorated with a pattern. Beads are connected by stringing them on a nylon or silk thread, and in the absence of a through hole in the beads, using a wire hook. The difference between beads and necklaces is that beads, regardless of the complexity of the design, are strung on threads, and necklaces are a metal structure with stones, pearls, corals fastened into metal castes.

Bracelets

A bracelet is a wrist ornament that has both decorative and household purposes, designed to be worn on the wrists or ankles.

Design:

Bracelets are a series of links (gliders), clasps, extensions (in the middle or at the ends), a lock with a safety lock.

1 - link;

2 - stretching;

3 - lock.

closed;

Springy;

Articulated

Closed - this is a ring or several rings of wire.

Spring-loaded - this is a cut ring made of elastic metal or a spring coil.

Articulated - these are two parts of one part connected by a hinge.

Soft bracelets:

Glider (several links of gliders with a swivel or spring connection);

Chain (several rings different shapes from wire);

Wicker.

The shape of the links of all bracelets can be rectangular, square, oval, shaped, fantasy.

cufflinks

Cufflink - a product for fixing the cuffs of the sleeves.

Design:

Top (decorating part);

Mounting details;

fastener

1 - tip;

2 - fastening details;

3 - fastening part

Tie clips

Tie clip - a product for fixing the position of a tie.

Design:

Case (in the front part, decorated with enamel, niello, engraving, inlay of gems, etc.);

Pressure plate (clamping)

1 - body;

2 - clamp

Information about precious metals

Gold is a metal of a beautiful yellow color, thin-sheet (leaf) gold has a greenish tint. Gold hardly forms chemical compounds, it is chemically stable in air, in water and in acids, with the exception of aqua regia (in the latter, gold dissolves to form chloroauric acid). It also interacts with free chlorine ions, potassium and sodium cyanides, bromine and some other chemicals that are not used in the jewelry industry. Density of gold 19.32; melting point 960 degrees C; hardness on the Mohs scale 2.5. Gold is highly reflective and polishes well; it has high plasticity and is rolled into sheets up to 0.0001 mm thick. The thermal and electrical conductivity of gold is lower than that of copper. Its specific heat capacity is relatively low; due to its low hardness and strength, gold is used in jewelry in the form of alloys with other metals and in very rare cases in its pure form.

Silver is a white metal that practically does not change under the influence of oxygen at room temperature, however, due to the presence of hydrogen sulfide in the air, it becomes covered with a dark coating of silver sulfide over time. Silver is stable in water, does not dissolve in nitric acid and hot concentrated sulfuric acid. With aqua regia, it forms insoluble silver chloride. Like gold, it interacts with alkaline cyanide solutions. Density of silver 20.20; melting point 960 degrees C; Mohs hardness 2.5. Silver is well polished, has a high reflectivity; it has good malleability and the highest thermal and electrical conductivity of all metals. To increase the hardness and strength of silver, it is used in alloys with other metals.

Platinum - the metal has a white-gray color, similar in color to steel, practically insoluble in water, in acids, with the exception of hot aqua regia, upon interaction with which platinum-hydrochloric acid is formed. Density of platinum 21.45; melting point 1773.5 deg. FROM; Mohs hardness 5. Platinum is ductile, polishes well, has a high reflectivity, low thermal and electrical conductivity, low specific heat.

Palladium is a silver-white metal, ductile and malleable, easily rolled into foil and drawn into thin wire. Density of palladium 12.2; melting point 1552 degrees C; Mohs hardness 5. In air at normal temperature palladium does not oxidize, is resistant to a humid environment. When heated to 860 degrees C, it oxidizes, and with increasing temperature, the oxide decomposes and the metal brightens again. In terms of its properties, palladium is inferior to all metals of the platinum group; it is soluble in nitric and hot sulfuric acids, as well as in aqua regia.

Rhodium is a bluish-white metal resembling aluminum, hard and brittle. Has a high reflectivity. When heated, it becomes plastic. Density 12.41; melting point 1960 degrees C; Mohs hardness 6.0. Chemically resistant. Under normal conditions, it does not oxidize in air and water. When heated, it becomes covered with a black oxide film, which disappears at temperatures above 1200 degrees C. Rhodium is resistant to acids (except concentrated sulfuric) and aqua regia. Resistant to sulfur, chlorine, fluorine. It is used in jewelry as a decorative protective coating for jewelry.

Precious metal alloys

The use of pure metals for the manufacture of jewelry is impractical due to their high cost, insufficient hardness and wear resistance. To obtain the desired qualities, other metals are added to precious metals in certain proportions, which are called alloying metals, or ligatures. Alloying metals can be both precious and non-precious metals. Despite this, the resulting alloys are called precious. By alloying precious metals, alloys can be given various properties, such as the required hardness, ductility, casting qualities, color, melting point, etc. The number of jewelry alloys is large, and as new technologies are introduced into the production of jewelry, new alloys are being created. The most widely used alloys are provided for by GOST, according to which metallurgical enterprises produce semi-finished products in the form of ingots, sheets, tapes, strips, foils, wires, profiles for use in jewelry enterprises. Gold has the largest number of alloys.

Alloys of gold.

For gold, there are digital sample values ​​approved by GOST, indicating the amount of precious metal contained in 1000 parts of the alloy. A sample is assigned to each precious alloy. GOST 6835-85 provides for 40 gold alloys of eighteen samples, bearing in mind their different purposes. For jewelry, alloys of five samples are used - 958, 750, 585, 583, 375. Abroad, the 333rd test is used to make inexpensive jewelry. An alloy of the 958th test is three-component, in addition to gold, it contains silver and copper, it is used mainly for the manufacture wedding rings. The alloy has a pleasant bright yellow color, close to the color of pure gold. Very soft, as a result of which polishing on the product does not last long. An alloy of the 750th sample is three-component, it has copper and silver in its composition, in some cases palladium, nickel and zinc can be used in the form of a ligature. Color from yellowish green through reddish hues to white. The alloy lends itself well to soldering and casting, is a suitable base for applying enamels, however, when the alloy contains more than 16% copper, the color of the enamel becomes dull. It is recommended to use in the manufacture of products with a thin embossed gouge, filigree and for the manufacture of settings for fragile gems, intense diamonds. The alloy of the 585th test (introduced instead of the 583rd test) is a three-component alloy, the color can be different, depending on the ligature - from red, pink through yellow-green shades to white. Depending on the ligature, it may have different melting points and hardness. These alloys have good solderability. The alloy of the 375th test has a reddish muted color, when polished, it acquires a gray tonality, and is used to make wedding rings. The alloy of the 333rd test is easily soluble in nitric acid, it is unstable in air.

Silver gives the gold alloy softness, malleability, lowers the melting point and changes the color of gold. As silver is added, the color of the alloy turns green, turning yellow-green; at a silver content of more than 30%, the color becomes yellow-white and pales as the amount of silver increases; when the content in the alloy is 65% silver, the color of the alloy becomes white.

Copper increases the hardness of the gold alloy while maintaining malleability and malleability. The alloy takes on a reddish hue that intensifies as the percentage of copper increases; at 14.6% copper, the alloy becomes bright red. However, copper reduces the anti-corrosion properties of the alloy.

Palladium raises the melting point of the gold alloy and dramatically changes its color - when the alloy contains 10% palladium, the ingot turns white. Plasticity and ductility of the alloy are preserved.

Nickel changes the color of the alloy to pale yellow, increases hardness. The nickel content increases the fluidity of the melt, and hence the casting quality.

Platinum colors the gold alloy whiter than palladium. The yellowness is already lost at a content of 8.4% platinum in the alloy. The melting point of the alloy rises sharply. With an increase in the content of platinum to 20%, the elasticity of the alloy increases.

Cadmium in the composition of the alloy sharply lowers the melting point, but retains the ductility and ductility of the alloy.

Zinc sharply lowers the melting point of the alloy, increases its fluidity, gives the alloy brittleness and a greenish tint.

The participation of each component in the gold alloy is determined depending on the properties that the alloy should have. So, silver and copper make it possible to create alloys from pale yellow to red through greenish or reddish tones; maintain the softness, ductility, malleability and average melting point of the alloy. Palladium, nickel and platinum produce white gold alloys with a higher melting point and very high anti-corrosion properties. Cadmium and zinc make it possible to obtain gold alloys with a rather low melting point, and, consequently, to use the resulting alloys as solders.

Typical composition for different colors of gold
alloys in imported products

Silver alloys

Silver Alloys - In almost all cases, jewelry uses alloys in which the silver content is above 72%. White color silver with increasing copper content becomes more and more yellowish. If copper is 50% of the alloy, then the alloy becomes reddish, and at 70% copper it is red. If the alloy after casting needs to be made soft, then it should be quenched; on the other hand, by heating to a certain temperature, a significant increase in hardness can be achieved. For enamelling, alloys with a high silver content or even pure silver should be used so that the product on which the enamel is applied does not melt.

Silver alloys are less diverse than gold alloys, all are similar in color, close in mechanical properties and, as a rule, have one alloying component. Silver alloys (like all precious ones) are characterized by samples. There are the following samples of silver alloys: 960, 925, 916, 875, 800, 750.

Platinum alloy.

In modern jewelry, platinum alloy is much less common. Platinum, which was previously widely used for making jewelry with diamonds, as well as diamond settings, has given way to white gold. Platinum has a large number of alloys mainly for technical purposes, most of them are two-component. For jewelry, an alloy of the 950th test is used, which, in addition to platinum, includes copper or iridium. The color of the alloy remains characteristic of pure platinum.

Alloys of non-ferrous metals.

Currently, a large number of copper-based alloys are used for the production of jewelry: bronze, brass, cupronickel, nickel silver, the color properties of which make it possible to use them as imitators of gold and silver alloys. Products made of copper alloys - gold jewelry alloy imitations contain zinc or aluminum as the main alloying additive. The low anti-corrosion properties of copper alloys lead to the need to have a layer of protective lacquer coating on the surface of products made from them.

Samples of precious metals

The breakdown is called the quantitative content of the precious metal in the alloy. The sample is expressed by the number of grams of precious metals in a kilogram of alloy. Control over the content of precious metal in all materials is carried out everywhere, from freshly mined ores to finished products and their subsequent processing. The means of control for finished products is the assay mark, which indicates the content of the precious metal in the alloy and is placed on each product manufactured by state-owned enterprises. Control, consumption, accounting and storage of precious metals is carried out through zonal inspections of assay supervision. Assay supervision inspections check products for compliance with a given sample, and only they have the right to assay hallmarking.

Most countries use the metric (the most accurate) system of assays, with the 1000th assay being the highest, so branding is a three-digit number. But the 1000th test is conditional, i.e. theoretically, it can reach very high purity of the precious metal 999, 999 and large values, but not get 1000. It is also difficult to achieve an ideally accurate content of the precious metal in the alloy, so a remedium is set (maximum deviation from the norm).

In gold-silver, gold-copper and gold-silver-copper alloys, the remedium is set to 3 units. For example, in a gold alloy of the 583rd sample, the gold content should be in the range of 580 ... 586 units (58.0 ... 58.6%), i.e. deviation from the norm is 3 units. Gold alloys with nickel content have a remedium equal to 5. In alloys of the 585th sample, a plus remedium is set equal to 5, excluding a minus deviation.

In silver alloys from the 800th sample and above, a remedium of 3 is set, in alloys below the 800th sample - 5. Thus, the permissible deviation of the main component from the norm ranges from 0.003 ... 0.006% depending on the alloy, which forces manufacturers produce rather "strict" alloys. The metric system of samples began to operate in our country since the transition to international mass units in 1927. In accordance with the Regulations on the samples and branding of products made of precious metals (Appendix 1) in the Russian Federation, since October 2, 1992, the following metric samples have been established for jewelry and other household products made of precious metals:

It is allowed to manufacture products from gold of the 583rd test by consumer services enterprises on the orders of citizens from raw materials supplied by the customer.

In addition, on the territory of the Russian Federation, articles made of precious metals are in circulation and are sold, previously manufactured and branded with the following metric samples:

Due to historical features, branding in Russia appeared later than in other countries. The first Moscow brand - a double-headed eagle, accompanied by a date expressed in Slavic letters, refers to 1651-1652. The first hallmarks were not yet an indicator of the sample in the exact sense of the word. The brand only indicated that the silver was no worse than the sample recognized by law, but the sample itself did not have a precisely defined sample. As a rule, high-quality silver was from the 83rd to the 85th test and higher, which corresponded to the sample of "Lubsky thalers" or "efimki" - imported coins that were melted down to make things. In the last quarter of the 17th century, the law allowed a more low-grade sample - "levok". A stigma appeared - in the oval the word "levok".

City stamps indicating the place of production, as well as brand names, which have the initials of the author, appear in the 18th century.

For all cities in the XVIII-XIX centuries, the hallmarks consisted of:

from a stamp with the coat of arms of the city with or without a year in shields of various shapes;

from a stamp with the initial letters of the name and surname - the "name book" of the assay master"

from the brand of the master who made the thing, without indicating the year;

from a stamp with two numbers indicating the sample, i.e. the number of spools of pure silver or gold in a ligature pound. Masters, workshops, firms and factories were required to put their stamps on names before submitting products to the state assayer.

Medals made by order of the government, products of silversmiths and goldsmiths intended for the grand ducal courts and the needs of monasteries, ancient objects important in historical, archaeological and artistic terms, as well as objects inlaid with gold and silver, were exempted from mandatory hallmarking.

For branding, the products were presented at such a stage that the assay marks put on them could not be erased during further processing. The hallmarks were of two sizes: large - for large things and small - for jewelry items.

Until 1896, the so-called "tees" were placed on large products, i.e. hallmarks, on which the number of the sample, the coat of arms, the initial letters of the assayer and the year of hallmarking were joined together on one stamp. Until 1897, the hallmarks were convex. In 1897, the hallmarks became depressed (the lines of the hallmark were deepened).

Since 1899, a uniform brand has been established for the whole of Russia with the image of a female head in a kokoshnik in profile to the left, which was called the Identification Sign.

Since 1927, for hallmarking gold and silver products, a new hallmark was approved for all assay institutions - the head of a worker with a hammer, and a transition to the metric system of assays was made.

As of July 1, 1958, assay marks of a new type with the hammer and sickle emblem against the background of a five-pointed star were introduced for branding products made of gold, silver and platinum.

Currently, hallmarks with the image of a woman's head in a kokoshnik are used for hallmarking jewelry.

Until 1927, there were old Russian units of mass and jewelry was branded in the spool system of samples based on the maximum sample - 96. The sample in the spool system meant the number of spools in 1 pound. If a gold item has a fineness of 56, this means that the alloy contains 56 spools of pure gold per 96 spools of the total mass, i.e. per 1 lb. One pound is equal to 96 spools and corresponds to 409.512 g; 1 spool is equal to 96 shares and corresponds to 4.266 g; 1 share corresponds to 0.044 g. In turn, 40 pounds make up 1 pood and correspond to 16.380 kg.

In the spool system for gold items, 56, 72, 92 and 94 samples were provided. Silver products in different periods of time could be branded with 72, 74, 82, 84, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 94 samples.

The spool stamp indicates the quality of the alloy. For example, a sample of 56 means that there are 56 parts of gold in 96 parts of the alloy.

Some countries stigmatize jewelry in the carat system of fineness based on the maximum fineness of 24. In this weight system, 24 carats is 1 Cologne mark, which corresponds to 233.855 g, therefore, 1 carat corresponds to 9.744 g. Existing carat assays 9, 14, 18, 22 -i are provided only for gold and mean the content of pure gold in the alloy. For example, an 18 carat sample means the presence of 18 parts of gold in 24 parts of the alloy. For hallmarking of silver products in these countries, there are many curly hallmarks, indicating the quality of the alloy or the inscription "silver" in the language accepted in this country for hallmarking.

Due to the fact that in Russia until 1927 there was a spool (Z) system of samples, and a carat (K) system of samples is used abroad, if necessary, they are converted to metric (M) using the following ratios:

The calculation results for these ratios are presented in the table.

The ratio between samples of precious metal products of different systems

The cost of precious metals

The cost of precious metals is determined in accordance with world market prices (at the time of assessment, by samples per gram), where the calculation is based on the cost of a troy ounce of the corresponding precious metal, determined according to special reference and information literature, or according to the quotations of precious metals of the Central Bank of Russia. The cost of a precious metal in a piece of jewelry, taking into account primary labor costs and irretrievable losses, is determined by the formula: multiply the weight of the item by the current cost of 1 g of the precious metal of the corresponding sample, multiply by the coefficient of bringing the selling price of the precious metal to the wholesale valuation. On average, for jewelry enterprises, the coefficient is 1.24..

Jewelry appraisal

General provisions.

The cost of jewelry is defined as the sum of the material cost of precious metals, inserts of precious and ornamental stones and labor costs for the manufacture of the product.

The evaluation of diamonds, precious and semi-precious stones is carried out according to the current price lists for diamonds.

The cost of labor costs for the manufacture of a product is determined by the result of diagnostics of the manufacturing method.

Evaluation of jewelry without inserts.

The cost price of the product is determined based on the current price of 1 g of the metal of this sample, taking into account the cost of the coefficient of bringing the selling price of the precious metal to the wholesale estimate multiplied by the weight of the product and the manufacturer's margin. The percentage of the manufacturer's margin, which is affixed to the above formula, is different, it depends on the amount of work required for the production of products. To determine the manufacturer's markup for a product with a complex cast shape, it is recommended to multiply the actual cost of the metal by 2.25 in order to take into account the time required to produce and make a wax model.

For cast products with detachable connections (earrings, brooches, pendants, bracelets), it is recommended to multiply the actual value of the metal by at least 2.5. For products of two- and three-color gold, it is recommended to multiply the actual value of the metal by 2.2.

When evaluating cast and stamped silver products, it is recommended to multiply the total weight of the product by the current value of the metal of this sample, taking into account the following coefficients:

For stamped products 2.0;

For stamped with additional engraving 3.0;

For products with niello 4.0;

For products with enamel 4.0.

These ratios are taken from industry standards and specifications for the manufacture of precious metal jewelry.

Evaluation of jewelry of historical and artistic significance.

1. Evaluation of jewelry of historical and artistic significance is carried out by an expert, in accordance with applicable law, in the manner prescribed by order of the State Customs Committee of Russia dated 06.25.93 N 264, letters of the State Customs Committee of Russia dated 07.12.95 N 03-149 / 17414 " On some issues on the application of the order of the State Customs Committee of the Russian Federation 25.06.93 N 264 "and of 16.01.98 N 01-15 / 837" On the need to comply with the customs and criminal procedural legislation of the Russian Federation in the production of procedural actions with material evidence and documents ".

2. When evaluating works of jewelry and stone-cutting art, as well as works of small plastic art of historical and artistic significance, it is necessary to take into account: the originality of the idea, the level of execution, the complexity of modeling, the new in technology, the completeness of the product, rarity, uniqueness, increased antique demand.

3. When determining multiplying factors and allowances in % to the base cost, the following factors must be taken into account:

Time of creation;

The presence of a set of hallmarks (city mark, assay master's mark with or without a date);

The presence of the stigma of the master;

The presence of the brand of the company;

The presence of a legend;

The presence of a documented history of the subject;

Style signs;

The presence of features that allow you to identify the handwriting of the master or company;

Typicality (characteristic of the time of existence);

Rarity (for the time of existence).

Groups of complexity of jewelry made by casting or stamping

To determine the complexity group of a piece of jewelry, it is sufficient to have at least one of the following features:

"mounting" operation

Group I - a solid-cast or solid-forged product, of a simple shape with a smooth surface.

Group II - a solid-cast or solid-forged product, of a simple shape with a relief surface.

Group III - a product of 2 or 3 parts with a relief surface, from 1 to 6 soldering points during assembly; or a solid-cast product, but with a complex relief or openwork surface.

Group IV - a product of 2 or 3 parts with a complex openwork or embossed surface, with more than 6 soldering points or a seam.

Group V - a product of 3 or more parts with a complex openwork or embossed surface, difficult to access for processing, with complex inconvenient soldering of more than 6 points or a seam.

Operation "polishing"

I group - a product of a simple form.

Group II - a product of a simple shape with a relief surface, including earrings with a pull through the bend of the fastener, weighing up to 5.0 g.

Group III - a product of a simple or complex shape with a relief surface, with simple crane castes, including earrings with pulling through the bend of the fastener, weighing up to 5.0 g.

IV group - a product of complex shape with an openwork or relief surface, difficult to process, using pulling through the inner end surfaces of the holes and bending the fasteners, with openwork or silver castes, weight does not matter.

Group V - polishing bracelets, necklaces, etc.

The surfaces of a simple form include the surfaces of products with a flush connection of parts, even, smooth, easily accessible for polishing. Embossed surfaces include surfaces and products that have protrusions, sharp edges, edges, the blunting of which is permissible. Complex surfaces include surfaces of openwork, thin-walled, filigree products, which have holes that are hard to reach for polishing on brushes and require the introduction of polishing by pulling cotton cloth or threads.

Estimate wages for the manufacture of jewelry made by casting, it is recommended to produce according to the following classification used in the jewelry industry (OST 25-1290-87):

Brooches

pendants

Bracelets

Standards for assessing wages for the manufacture of jewelry
lost wax casting

Increasing coefficients and allowances in % of the cost
jewelry

Principles of accounting for the external state of products

The main requirements for the quality of jewelry products are specified in OST 25-1290-87 "Jewellery from precious metals. General specifications". The quality of mass-produced stone-cutting products must comply with OST 25-843-78.

Quality control of products made of precious metals must begin with checking the presence on each product of the stamp of the Inspectorate of Assay Supervision and the name of the manufacturer, which must be clear and not worsen the appearance of the product.

Paired items (earrings, cufflinks) must be selected according to size, shape, type of cut and color of inserts. Slight differences in the color shades of the inserts are not a defective sign. If half-pairs have an asymmetric top design, then they should be paired according to the principle specular reflection. Polished and brushed surfaces of products should be evenly polished and brushed, polished - brought to a shine, matte - evenly matte and velvety in appearance.

On the surface of the products there should be no cracks, shells, burrs.

On non-facial surfaces, slight porosity, waviness, tool marks are allowed.

Enamel coatings of products must be smooth, shiny, without chips, cracks, gaps, gaps, spots and metal defects visible under transparent enamel.

Enamel coatings of products (except for table setting items and interior decorations) should not have scratches, bubbles, inclusions, pores, sags on edges and partitions.

On enamel coatings, a slight waviness of the enamel layer is allowed, as well as the presence of a hair-like feature at the junction of the enamel with partitions and edges.

On electroplated coatings there may be slight traces of contact points with conductive devices without disturbing the coating layer and not deteriorating the appearance of the product. There should not be more than five dispersed pores on the blackened coatings of table setting items and interior decorations.

Welded and soldered seams in products must be tight, even and without burns. From the side of the front surface of the product, the seams should be close in color to the alloy from which it is made.

Stamped, chased, filigree, carved and engraved drawings on the surfaces of products must have a clear image.

In the restored products, in agreement with the customer, defects that cannot be corrected are allowed.

The inserts must be fixed in the frame motionlessly, while the possibility of the inserts falling out must be excluded.

For prong and corner setting, the prongs and corners must be tucked in and their ends pressed tightly against the surface of the inserts.

With a blind backtack, the castes should compress the inserts along the girdle tightly, without a gap. When finishing with grisant, the pattern of the grisant must be clear and without breaks.

Inserts made of pearls, corals, amber, shells, ornamental stone can be mounted on glue in combination with a blind setting or on glue and on pins.

Locks in products should exclude their spontaneous opening.

The design of the fastening parts of earrings and brooches should ensure the correct position of the products during operation.

Methodological and regulatory documents used in the recommendations

1. Dronova N.D. "Method of evaluation of jewelry with precious, semi-precious and ornamental stones". M., 1995. International Academy of Information.

2. Dronova N.D., Akkalaeva R.Kh. "Assessment of the market value of jewelry". M., 1998. Academy of National Economy.

3. Methodical materials according to the evaluation of the jewelry stones of the company YUV-EKSO. Yekaterinburg, 1996.

4. Brepol E. "Artistic enameling". Leningrad, 1996, Mechanical engineering publishing house.

5. Dronova N.D. "Fundamentals of jewelry production". M., MGRI, 1994.

6. Strukov V.M. "Expert studies of jewelry and artistic metal products". Tutorial. M., 1995, ECC MVD.

7. Novikov V.P., Pavlov V.S. "Hand-made Jewelry". Leningrad, 1991, Polytechnic.

8. Marchenkov V.I. "Jewellery". M., 1992. Higher school.

9. Typical methodology for the formation of free prices for jewelry made by individual order of the population N 2/03-19-7-84. Developed in the Department of Consumer Market and Services 03.11.94. Approved by the Department of Price and Tax Policy of the Government of Moscow 03.11.94 N 27/07-61/608.

10. Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation N 552 of 08/05/92 "Regulations on the composition of costs for the production and sale of products (works, services) and on the formation of financial results taken into account when taxing profits".

11. Additional price list N 075-1973/354 "Retail prices for watches and spare parts for them". Approved by the Decree of GOSKOMTSEN USSR N 820 dated 04.08.81.

12. Price-list N 108 "Retail prices for articles made of precious metals". Approved by GOSKOMTSEN USSR N 108-1981 in 1981.

13. Price list N B4201-MG dated 1979. Additional price list N 1-4 to it "Prices for jewelry work and services for the manufacture and repair of jewelry on orders from the population." Approved by the Moscow City Executive Committee on 24.08.79.

14. A. Miller. "Jewellery Appraisal".

Head of the Central
customs laboratory
V.A. Solozhentsev

AGREED:
Head of the Regional
customs administration
to combat customs
offenses
S.N. Trofimyuk

The text of the document is verified by:
official distribution