Unfortunately, youth quickly passes, but those who do not pay enough attention to self-care have to be even more distressed, noticing a trace of skin aging. Do you want to maintain beautiful elastic skin for longer? Start using night creams no later than after reaching your twenty-fifth birthday!

The fact is that during sleep, at rest, our skin absorbs much better useful material and active compounds found in night creams. Thus, the skin tone is restored and premature aging... With regular use of a properly selected high-quality night cream, you yourself will see how the traces of fatigue on the face disappear in the morning, mimic wrinkles are smoothed out, and the skin becomes fresh and smooth.

What to look for when buying a night cream?

Ingredients that must be included in the night cream:

First of all, these are antioxidants. It is important that the night cream contains vitamin E, as well as coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10);

Keratin must be contained;

The night cream should also include substances such as iron, calcium and their compounds;

One of the most important ingredients in a night cream is vitamin C;

And, of course, the composition of the night cream must necessarily include ingredients that stimulate the production of collagen and elastin (for example, Cynergy TK);

It is very important to have enzymes in the night cream that accelerate the delivery of vitamins and moisture to the deeper layers of the skin. These are hyaluronic acid and hyaluronidase.

If you choose anti aging cream, then check that it must include proretinol-A, because it is with its help that the cells are renewed. A necessary ingredient of such a cream - nanosomes - are microparticles that reach the depths of the epidermis, ensuring the penetration of nutrients.

What shouldn't be in a night cream?

Of course, it's nice when the cream smells delicious and attractive. But keep in mind: if the smell is not created by the natural ingredients of the cream, but by artificial additives, you should not use it, as unnatural fragrances can contain chemicals and toxins that are easily absorbed into the skin.

The anti-aging and night cream should be alcohol-free, as it dehydrates the skin, destroys the natural lipid defenses and even reduces or completely eliminates the effects of most of the beneficial ingredients.

You should not buy a cream that contains mineral oils, as they have the ability to clog pores, and this provokes the appearance of redness, irritation and acne.

The cream should be free of dioxane and polyethylene glycol - these are potential carcinogens that will harm your skin.

Cosmetologists have conducted numerous studies of padimate-O, which has been used in creams as a blocker of ultraviolet radiation, and have not yet come to a consensus. But many experts suspect this additive is carcinogenic, so it's best to watch out.

Very often, parabens are added to creams, which prolong the shelf life of night creams. You shouldn't save and buy right away a large number of cream, glad that it will last for a long time. It is better to buy the cream more often and in small packages, as parabens can harm the endocrine system.

How to choose a face cream? It is always necessary to start with a careful reading of the composition. Do not rely on a "promoted" brand or recognizable label. There are many similar brands on the market (some of them are of high quality, others are inexpensive fakes), it is very difficult to find differences in the design and name of such jars, so you need to read the label, and not evaluate its design. What is needed and what is completely useless on this list?

The composition of the cosmetic

At its core, a cream is a carefully mixed homogeneous mass of a base, beneficial substances for the skin (active ingredients) and auxiliary ingredients (technical details).

Base

Decent manufacturers use natural vegetable oils and their mixtures as a base, technical (mineral) oils obtained in the process of processing and using petroleum products prevail in low-quality products. The base of the cream is also a universal solvent for all other ingredients. It is better if the product is based on sesame or olive oil. Equally important is the homogeneity of the mass and the size of the particles in the emulsion (this is how the consistency of the cream is called in chemistry). The more thoroughly the ingredients are crushed, the more likely they are to penetrate into the deep subcutaneous layers.

Important ingredients in terms of technical filling

The skin is a barrier to the external environment, it reliably protects against the effects of various factors (both unfavorable and beneficial substances of masks, creams). Therefore, the primary task for manufacturers is to find a way, how to overcome this barrier, how to direct all the necessary substances into the deep subcutaneous layers, so that they realize their function there. Cosmetologists are helped by synthetic substances that facilitate the process - technical elements. They increase the effectiveness of the cream and promote the penetration of these active ingredients into the skin tissues.

Only 10-30 percent of the beneficial substances from the products applied to the skin can get to the deep layers of it and improve the condition of the face. If you deprive the cream of synthetic impurities, then 1-5% of the active ingredients will reach the goal.

Select good cream for a face without such ingredients is not possible. Absolutely all cosmetic products contain:

• emulsifiers and stabilizers (responsible for maintaining the consistency of the product and preventing the mass from delamination);
• preservatives (prevent natural ingredients from spoiling);
• thickeners (used to give the product a creamy structure, since natural vegetable oils are quite liquid);
• fragrances (designed to deodorize a cosmetic product and increase its aesthetic properties);
• dyes, etc.

Almost all of the listed components are produced synthetically, are not at all useful for the skin, but are indispensable in creams. The harmful effects of such substances have not been proven, but it is better to keep them as small as possible.

Active ingredients

The content of this group of substances in the product determines the cosmetic effect of its use. The best cream (in terms of composition) should contain at least 4-5 names of natural extracts, extracts, oils, esters or other non-synthetically produced components. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to choose products with the presence of overseas plants (ginkgo biloba, jojoba, passionfruit, etc.). Plants of the usual climate have a similar effect: sea buckthorn, dill, cucumber, chamomile, calendula, etc.

Vitamins and trace elements are added as active components, if they are in the composition - this is another plus in favor of the remedy. The following substances may be present in specialized creams for skin care:

• ceramides (fats of natural origin, help to retain moisture);
• antioxidants (rid cells of free radicals);
• azelaic acid (provides a whitening effect).

Pseudo-active components

At first glance, the composition of the cream may contain quite useful substances - coenzyme Q10, vitamin C, and the like. If they are present in the epidermis, the effect of smoothing wrinkles, an antioxidant effect is actually observed. However, there is one big but: such ingredients are not absorbed into the skin:

• vitamin C decomposes in the air even before being applied to the face;
• coenzyme Q10, hyaluronic acid and collagen are too large molecules to cross the skin barrier, etc.

How to find the middle ground?

Which face cream to choose so that it is really good for the skin, has high efficiency and is not replete with chemical impurities? The secret lies in the composition of the product. The closer to the beginning of the list of components, the greater its proportion in the emulsion. Universal rules for choosing a face cream:

1. Natural ingredients should be in the first half of the list.
2. The composition should contain 3-5 components of natural origin.
3. The number of chemical names on the list should be kept to a minimum.
4. The cream must match.
5. Do not buy a cream that has no composition on the label.

Remember that the professional cream acts quickly, thanks to the high content of chemical components that enhance its effect. To do this, you need to choose the right manufacturer and type of cream that suits your skin. Action natural remedy appears only after a month or two after the start of regular use. Do not judge the cream after the first application (except for the sensation of obvious discomfort, allergic reaction or rash) - the ingredients must work from the inside. The products have practically no effect on already formed skin cells, and it takes time for the skin to renew itself.

Types of creams by type of action

In order to choose the right cream for your face, you must first of all decide on the problem that worries. It is good if the skin is young and clearly has one or two problems (oily and, for example). The situation is much more complicated with mature skin, which already shows signs of aging (first wrinkles), dryness, lack of elasticity and firmness of the face. To solve a complex of problems, it may be necessary to purchase several funds.

Varieties of creams

There are several main types of creams according to their action:

1. Moisturizers - deliver moisture to the skin and retain it. On the surface of the face, they form a thin film that binds water and directs it to the place of deficiency.
2. Nutritious - they contain a large number of plant extracts, herbal extracts and the like. By increasing the proportion of nourishing ingredients, the skin of the face receives more vitamins and minerals. Typically, nourishing products are oily and are applied as a night face cream.
3. Fortified - products are rich in vitamins of natural origin and synthetic production. In fact, this is the same nourishing cream, but with a lighter texture (less fat in the composition). From this series it is easy to choose a cream for oily skin face and for very young skin.
4. Protective - means protect from wind, cold, sun and the like. When applied, a mechanical barrier is created on the skin, minimizing adverse effects environment... The composition may contain wax, petroleum jelly, silicone and the like.
5. Cleansing (exfoliating) creams remove chemically or mechanically the stratum corneum, enhance the penetration of creams for other purposes, promote cell renewal, improve appearance skin.
6. Repairing - contain ingredients that promote the regeneration of skin cells. To replenish the skin's need for nutrients, they contain extracts from plants, vitamins. To prevent aging and wilting of the face, the composition includes substances that trigger the production of collagen and elastin inside cells.
7. Rejuvenating creams are used if the process of skin aging has already started and its harmful effect, as they say, is “evident”.

"Challenger" decided to figure out what components are included in the face cream and how they affect the skin. We will understand, not without the help of a professional dermatologist, of course.

Irina Kotova

What does a face cream consist of?

The ingredients commonly found in (non-organic) face cream can be divided into several main groups. Firstly, these are biologically active substances, it is they who affect the skin cells in a certain way, depending on the purpose of the cream - anti-aging, moisturizing, restoration. The second important group is emulsifiers, they stabilize the cream base, the emulsion, which is water mixed with oil. The emulsion is used most often, as it allows biologically active components to be more easily absorbed into the skin tissue. But there is very important point: the oil must be natural (almond or olive). Alas, most often in cosmetics mineral oil is added, which is a liquid extract from petroleum products. Preservatives also play an important role, because due to their antibacterial and antifungal effect, in most cases they prevent the risk of microbial growth in the cream and prolong its shelf life. And finally, fragrances give a pleasant smell to the cream, but since they are most often the catalysts of allergic reactions, people with sensitive skin fragrance-free creams should be chosen.

The composition of the cream may contain potentially carcinogenic substances, since most of them are stabilizers and UV filters. Their concentration is strictly regulated and in any case should always remain minimal. But chemical compounds such as dioxane and phthalates are poisonous and dangerous to humans, and should be avoided even in small quantities.

It is on the basis of these facts that you should pay attention to the composition of the cream. So, the first components of the composition determine its properties and actual purpose.

• Moisturizer: glycerin, water, hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin, urea, lactic acid.
• Anti-aging cream: retinol, vitamins A, E, C, coenzyme Q10, alpha lipic acid, peptides, DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol).
• Revitalizing cream: ceramides, lilac and lanolinic acids, phosphatidylcholine (lecithin), asiatica centella extract, horse chestnut extract, panthenol, aloe vera extract.
• Cream for problem skin: salicylic acid, azelaic acid, AHA-acids (alpha hydroxide), triclosan, retinoids, copper, zinc, sulfur, talc, clay, niacinamide.

Interestingly, the formulations of day and night creams are not very different from each other. The main difference is the texture: the night one is lighter. Water-protective filters are added to the cream for daytime use, and on the contrary, for nighttime, ingredients that cannot be used in combination with ultraviolet light: AHA acids (phytic and kojic), arbutin, glabridin and retinoids in high concentrations.

How each component of the cream affects the skin

Cetyl, Stearyl, Cetearyl Alcohol(cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl alcohols) and Propylene glycol(propylene glycol): transport substances that contribute to more deep penetration active substances deep into the tissues. Only alcohol dries the skin, and propylene glycol, on the contrary, softens and moisturizes.

Triclosan(triclosan): An antibacterial substance that is used as an anti-inflammatory component.

Triethanolamine (TEA)(triethanolamine): a surfactant, a stabilizer, necessary for the cream to look like a coherent structure and does not delaminate into water and oil.

Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA)(butylhydroxyanisole) and Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT)(butylhydroxytoluene): chemical antioxidants that are used as preservatives.

Phthalates (DBP, DEP)(phthalates): stabilizers that give the cream extra softness. Substances that are toxic to humans can cause the development of cancer.

Preservatives(preservatives) and Parabens(parabens): substances that prevent the growth of microorganisms (bacteria) in the cream, preventing the development of skin diseases.

Fragrance(fragrances): fragrances, aromatic substances that give the cream a certain smell. As a rule, the natural ingredients of the cream do not smell very pleasant.

Glycerin(glycerin): A moisturizing ingredient that has earned its popularity for its ability to supply water from the lower layers of the skin to the surface layers. Glycerin also helps maintain and maintain the top protective layer of skin cells.

Mineral oil(mineral oil): oil protects the skin from moisture loss. The film created on its surface slows down the evaporation of water, due to which the skin looks more hydrated and smoother.

Urea(urea): a natural ingredient that is added to a moisturizer.

Hyaluronic acid(hyaluronic acid): a natural substance found in epithelial and connective tissues, improves the structure of the epidermis, moisturizes and softens the skin.

Collagen(collagen): an essential protein in the connective tissues of the body. As part of the cream, it has a smoothing and moisturizing effect.

Ceramide(ceramides): fatty acids that are able to repair damage in the intercellular structure caused by skin diseases and external influences.

Lecithin(lecithin): a nutrient that makes the skin soft and helps biologically active ingredients penetrate deep into the epidermis.

Retinol(retinol): A fat-soluble vitamin of the A group that helps in the fight against age-related skin changes. When added in high concentrations to an anti-aging cream, retinol can cause redness and irritation.

Coenzyme Q10(coenzyme Q10): An antioxidant that stimulates collagen synthesis and protects skin cells from premature aging.

Elastin(elastin): Protein - a relative of collagen, responsible for the firmness and elasticity of skin tissues.

Nicotinamide(niacinamide): Vitamin B3 that fights acne marks and evens skin tone, making it lighter.

Dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE)(dimethylaminoethanol): A chemical compound that is added to almost any anti-aging cream. Its effect is not yet fully understood, but there are some that indicate that the use of dimethylaminoethanol leads to the death of skin cells.

Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)(beta-hydroxyacids): a class of acids that salicylic acid belongs to. This acid penetrates deep into tissues and dissolves dead cells. Salicylic acid has a mild effect on the skin and has an anti-inflammatory effect.