The process of making shoes in a shoe factory. Shoe making technology. Materials for production
Shoe production: what equipment is needed + shoe manufacturing technology - 9 main stages. What you need to organize the work of shoe production: raw materials, premises, personnel + detailed financial calculations.
Capital investment (factory): from 150,000,000 rubles.
Payback period for footwear production: 3.5 - 4 years.
The Russian market is full of goods that are produced all over the world, but the situation is not so good with domestic producers.
Most likely, this is due to the fact that countries like China produce a large number of products for every taste.
Yes, it's not very high quality. However, its prices are quite low, while well-known foreign brands of high quality have a correspondingly high cost.
One such industry is footwear production. This type of activity is also not particularly developed in the Russian Federation.
Therefore, we can assume that if you create an excellent product offer on the territory of Russia, then demand will also appear.
This business is not for everyone.
You need to be a person who understands all the subtleties of the tailor profession. Also have experience in tailoring, repairing or manufacturing shoes.
Even if you yourself do not plan to work, but only to manage, such experience will help determine what may be needed for production.
What format to choose for the production of shoes?
To summarize, we can distinguish two formats for the production of shoes:
- a small place where the master sews shoes to order or for retail sale;
- full-scale production, factory.
The first option is chosen when there are no funds for the arrangement of a large enterprise with a factory building and a large staff.
In this case, you can try to open a small boutique with designer shoes.
But to reveal all the possibilities, if available, both for a novice entrepreneur and for an experienced businessman, will allow the option with a shoe factory.
The cardinal difference is that in the case of a large production, it is necessary to focus on its mass character, the speed of release of new models and accessibility for the masses.
And in the case of a private boutique, the main task is the production of exclusive models with individual design, as well as the highest quality.
Another point on which the shoe production format differs is its style. It is necessary to diametrically separate the sports and classic format.
If in the technology of sewing summer sandals and winter boots there are no particularly complex differences, then sneakers are a completely different type of product, the production of which requires different knowledge, technology and equipment.
Basic equipment for the production of shoes - what is needed?
Regardless of the size and purpose of a shoe factory, it is clear that without sewing machine can't get by.Already delving into the nuances of production, we can emphasize the fact that the standard model will not work when working with leather and other hard materials.
Detailed list |
|
|---|---|
| 1) transition bending machine and the edges of some parts - 640,000 rubles. 2) setting to create a form 3) special press 4) grinding equipment 5) installation that lowers the edges of the parts Total: from 1,850,000 rubles |
|
Optional equipment, | 1) special installation that will attach some parts with glue - 460,000 rubles. 2) equipment that will 3) installations that will fasten 4) production conveyor - 465,000 rubles. 5) a cutter for dividing the material into parts, Total: from 1,970,000 rubles |
For finishing | 1) tightening - 240,000 rubles. 2) moisturizing - 155,000 rubles. 3) drying - 550,000 rubles. 4) cooling - 445,000 rubles. 5) thermal activation of adhesive layers - 6) removal of pads - 225,000 rubles. 7) smoothing the shin area - 8) final cleaning and Total: from 2,125,000 rubles |
In most cases, you may need additional equipment, the choice of which will be determined by the characteristics of production. This is due to the desire to innovate even in such a familiar industry as the production of shoes.
Well-known brands are especially active in this.
Vivid examples: "breathable shoes" from Geox brand, shoes with Reebok's "Easy Tone" soles (which, according to the ads, help keep the butt muscles in good shape).
9 stages of shoe manufacturing technology
- Farther markings are applied where and how the connecting seams will pass.
- The edges of the parts are fired and polished in order to make them thinner and more suitable for further stitching.
- Seamstresses start sewing, which give the workpiece the shape of future shoes.
- Thereafter plates are attached, which give the shoe the ability to remain in its original form, without losing shape under the influence of temperatures.
- The tightening process ready product laces always done manually.
As with any sewing process, it all starts with a pattern.
If we consider an example in which we have already finished processed leather or other material of the color we need, then the next step will be the manufacture of parts.
These components are cut out with the help of special cutters according to a pre-prepared stencil of the future product.
To make one shoe, on average, you need to divide a piece of material into 20 or more parts. But it all depends on the complexity of the idea of this model.
The next step will be shoe insole shaping.
This is done with the help of special equipment - a press.
This apparatus, using the method of strong compression, connects several layers of different materials, and gives a certain shape and bends to the shoe insole.
The last step in manufacturing is connection of the workpiece with the sole.
The sole itself is made in a special oven, after which it is processed and cut off all unnecessary.
After connecting with the sole, finished model being polished.
This is done with the help of sheep wool and a special wagon for shoes.
What raw materials may be needed for the production of shoes, and where is it best to take them?
Since we are still talking about the production of good and high-quality shoes, natural leather is considered to be the main material for its production.
It is not necessary to contact foreign companies for the supply of high-quality material, since half of the cost will be only delivery, and customs expenses and.
Throughout Russia, there are many enterprises that offer material for the manufacture of shoes. You can refer to such as:
- "Ronnon" - Moscow ( https://www.ronnontk.ru/leather)
- "Ostashkovsky plant" - Tver region ( www.okz.ru)
- "Russian skin" - Ryazan ( https://www.leather.ru/ru)
- "Kirov Tannery Arteks" - Kirov ( www.arteks.su)
And it's far from full list all factories in Russia for the production of leather.
Chemical production materials will also be needed for further processing of this skin. Chemical treatment means various liquids, creams, oils etc.
For processing shoe soles, you may also need liquid polyurethanes. All this can be ordered from local chemical plants. Again, there are more than enough of them on the territory of Russia.
Packing material most often ordered from companies that manufacture custom-made packaging. Most often, the larger the order, the cheaper the unit.
How to choose the right room?
Space for small production.
If we are talking about mini-production, you can get by with a small room.
Some of the equipment that will be needed for conveyor production is not needed in this case, since half of the work will be done manually.
Also, as a rule, in the production of this format there is no need for in large numbers personnel.
Based on these data, it can be determined: you need a room with a small area.
But the general requirements for production remain unchanged, regardless of its volume:
- the presence of a gas pipeline;
- plumbing installed;
- availability of telephone lines;
- the electrical wire is able to withstand the load corresponding to the features of production;
- heating and thermal insulation are also important, since the storage of material for manufacturing requires a certain temperature regime.
Nowadays, quite often there are workshop points where the store itself is located in the same building with.
This makes it possible to save on rent and sell products on the spot.
A place for a shoe factory.
In the case of a large-scale shoe-making workshop, it is obviously better to choose a factory space in an industrial area of the city.
Usually, the cost of renting or buying a building in this part of the city is not that high.
If all the necessary areas are included (office department, manufacturing, tailoring and processing workshops, staff room and warehouse), an area of \u200b\u200babout 7,000 square meters will be required. m.
How to organize work in a shoe shop?
Selection of personnel for the mini-production of shoes.
For a small trade + production point, in fact, one person is quite enough. But for greater convenience, it is better to separate the administrative work and the process of creating a product.
Ideally, you need at least one more administration representative(for example, manager or salesman, if the production is located in the same room as the store), designer(since we are talking about designer shoes), cutter and seamstress in one person, and master who will take care of all the installation and similar work.
Shoe factory staff.
For the operation of a full-fledged shoe production, in addition to a sufficient amount of equipment, it is necessary to hire a fairly large staff.
In general, about 150 people are needed to work in production (based on the fact that they will work in two shifts). And we are only talking about workers in the sewing and other workshops!
There will also be enough administrative staff, as well as warehouse workers. But, again, it all depends on the characteristics of the enterprise.
Each manager determines the exact amount himself, depending on the scale of what volume he is interested in.
Sales and sales of shoes
You can sell shoes both through and with the help of various showrooms and boutiques that sell various brands.
The second option is much more profitable - there is no need to pay for the rental of premises, wages, etc.
All that is needed is to simply provide the goods to the store for sale, set a certain amount per unit, depending on the model. The mark-up that the store sets, its owners can take for themselves.
In fact, there are many methods for selling shoes: from a point in the market to a large gallery in a shopping center. But the method indicated above is considered the most profitable.
Capital for the organization of shoe production. Profitability.
In the case of a small point of production and sale, it is difficult to calculate the costs.
We can definitely say only that this business will pay off faster than factory production. Already in the first year of work, all initial costs should pay off, after which the company will begin to make a profit.
If not, this will be a sign that you need to change the strategy.
In the case of a large workshop for the mass production of shoes, approximate figures can be given - from 150,000,000 rubles.
This amount includes the cost of not only equipment for the production of shoes, but also rent, wages, utilities.
| Item of expenses | Amount (rub.) |
|---|---|
| Total: | from 150,000,000 rubles |
| Business registration | 5 000 000 |
| Premises rent (year) | From 25,000,000 (7,000 sq. m. in the Moscow region) |
| Utilities (year) | 10 000 000 |
| Compensation (for approximately 150 employees) | From 3 000 000 / month From 36,000,000 / year |
| Equipment for the production of | From 5 945 000 |
| Raw materials (material for manufacturing) | 25 000 000 /year |
| Freight transportation | 2 000 000 /year |
| Rental of premises for the sale of shoes (about 5 pcs.) | 30 000 000 /year |
| Other expenses (troubleshooting, advertising, events) | 11,000,000 / year |
If we take into account the average indicators of domestic production, then the profitability of such a business (on a large scale) will be about 48-50%.
It can fully pay off in 3.5-4 years of work.
The development of this production is impossible without knowledge of all the nuances of the industry.
How is the shoe made? All manufacturing steps are shown in the video:
Conclusion on how to start the production of shoes and what is needed for this?
Taking into account all the above, we conclude: footwear production large scale is not so suitable for entrepreneurs who are not ready for such huge costs, and also do not have the opportunity to wait for payback for such a long time, since they do not need large scale equipment for the production of shoes.
However, it is always possible to start with a smaller business, but in this case, success can only be expected if there are really fresh and interesting ideas.
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n1.doc
Chapter 4Development of new shoe models
1. Stages of creating and approving new models
The development of new models of shoes should be carried out according to a certain system, which allows taking into account all the given conditions for creating comfortable and expedient shoes.
The entire path of a new shoe model from sketch to buyer is at least one and a half years. Shortening this path is the task of the country's shoe industry workers.
The design process includes the following stages: preparation of technical specifications; collection of information; analysis of information in accordance with the recommendations of the Aesthetic Commission on Fashion and Clothing Culture of the Scientific and Technical Council of the USSR Ministry of Light Industry in a promising direction in the development of assortment and fashion; selection of pads and materials for design; development of a general view of footwear - a sketch; selection of a sketch for designing a model and its approval by the technical council of the enterprise; development of the project - drawings and details, taking into account the preliminary technical and economic assessment; feasibility study of the project; selection of projected materials; monitoring the assembly of the top blank and making the necessary adjustments to the drawing; monitoring the formation of the upper blank on the last and making the necessary adjustments to the drawing; repetition of the experiment (if necessary); conducting preliminary tests (evaluation) of prototype products.
The process of approving new models includes reviewing the finished shoe sample at the technical council of the enterprise; clarification of technical and economic indicators and repetition of the experiment (if necessary); designing a color map for each model, taking into account the fashion range, the purpose of shoes and customer demand; approval of the sample - the standard of footwear of the new model at the artistic and technical council (XTC) of the USSR Ministry of Light Industry. The process of introducing new models into production includes the following stages: participation in an industrial fair; scheduling the introduction of models for the year; working out the optimal dimensions of parts as a result of repeating experiments on the manufacture of blanks for the uppers of shoes and molding them on a last in the experimental and production workshops of the enterprise; clarification of technical and economic indicators (determination of the final material consumption and labor intensity of the model); serial reproduction of model parts templates; preparation of documentation for the manufacture of cutters; checking a certain number of pairs of shoes made under production conditions, in average and extreme sizes; introduction of a new model in the production workshop under the supervision of a fashion designer and technologist.
2. Sketch modeling technique
A sketch is an artistically designed image of a conceived shoe design, showing the appearance and the main design idea. The developed sketch should clearly reflect the features of the shoes being designed: the shape of the block, the height of the heel, the configuration of the outer details of the top and bottom of the shoe, as well as identify the characteristic lines and proportions of the model details.
For each technical task, several sketches are developed, which are various options intent.
When considering sketches, attention is drawn not only to their aesthetic merits, but also to economic and technological factors. Visually, you can determine the complexity of the configuration of parts, their mutual stacking, the complexity of manufacturing the uppers of shoes and shoes in general. Models whose details are drawn on a rigid shell or cast can be submitted for consideration.
The most common shoe upper modeling system is a combined one, in which obtaining a conditional sweep of the side surface of the block is combined with drawing a model drawing on it in accordance with the sketch. On the drawing, the contours and dimensions of parts are adjusted relative to control points and lines, as well as the calculation of allowances for stitching and tightening, taking into account the thickness and deformation of parts. An example of working on a sketch is the design of a model of women's open shoes with stitch-glue and adhesive fastening methods.
A variant of the copy-graphic modeling system according to the sketch is drawing a model drawing on a block, transferring it to the URC template from tracing paper, and then to the drawing and further adjusting the contours and dimensions of parts relative to the base and control lines based on a thorough analysis of models of similar structures operating in this production shoes.
When developing strap-type shoes, a copy modeling system is common. The development of models for the construction of moccasins and a boat is most often carried out on a rigid shell.
In all cases, it is necessary to take into account the anatomical structure of the foot, technological and economic indicators of the designed shoes.
3. Methodology for constructing a control drawing of the main structures of the shoe upper
The control drawing of the top model is the final step in the development of a new model and contains basic information about it. The control drawing is made according to the corrected detailing and the verified URC. Details with a fold line are made in expanded form, indicating the size of the allowances, the number of lines and the distance between them.
After inscribing the URC in the coordinate axes and drawing the base and control lines, the position of three reference points is determined (Fig. IX. 1, a). For the main designs and types of shoe uppers, the following points are determined: 1 - normalized allowance for tightening in the heel; 2 - allowance for the thickness of fitting parts at the point of greatest convexity of the heel contour of the URC; WITH- vamp point, taking into account the design features of the model.
The first and second points (Fig. IX. 1, b) found on the drawing first. Third point WITH is determined on the contour of the URC after combining the parts with the drawing (Fig. IX. 1, v). To do this, the original parts are fastened together along the marked lines of the seam allowance using paper clips or rubber glue, forming a ground model. Glue is applied at two points so that the parts can be easily separated after drawing. The heel contour of the soil model is aligned with the points 1 and 2 , and the marked point WITH- with URC contour. At the same time, the position of the heel contour is controlled relative to the points 1 and 2 .
WITH
Rice. IX. one. Scheme for constructing a control drawing of the top model:
a - shoe details in the assembly (ground model); b - drawing reference points 1 and 2; c - inscribing the soil model. Determining the position of the point C in the designs of models; g - with on-line berets; e - with a tuning vamp (similar to pumps with a central elastic band); e - with side elastic bands (including "loafer"); g - without special fastening on the foot (in shoes)
Having combined the soil model with the three named points, the details are outlined along the outer contour with a sharpened pencil, and after separation - along the entire contour. In this case, invisible lines of allowances and contours of parts are outlined with a dashed line (see Fig. IX.1, a and v).
H 
and fig. IX. one, G-well point position given WITH for models of standard designs. When performing control drawings of shoes, low shoes and open shoes, points V P
and V T
(not marked in the figure) must correspond to the dimensions specified in the state standard.
In the control drawing, the originals are outlined by the main line, and the allowances for processing the visible edges of the parts are thin. All dimensions of parts and allowances are indicated according to the drawing, taking into account the thickness of the pencil (Fig. IX. 2). On the control drawing, it is recommended to make a model passport in the form of a table (see Table IV. 3).
The simplest option execution of the control drawing - building a drawing of the parts in the assembly according to the technological process and inscribing the model of the conditional block sweep into the ground, focusing on the points 1 , 2 and C (see Fig. IX. 1, a). The purpose of constructing a control drawing is to check the position of the control points according to the state standard, check the dimensions of the allowances for stitching and tightening, analyze and justify the position of point C and the inflection line of the vamp.
H
Rice. IX. 2. Upper control drawing
and in the control drawing, the turn of the URC can be omitted, except for the drawings of boots and boots.
To build a control drawing of the lining, its parts are assembled in accordance with the technological process using paper clips or glue and combined in the drawing with the contour of the outer details of the top. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the rule for designing internal parts - the perimeter of the lining without seam allowance and processing is always less than the perimeter of the outer parts. The guideline is the contour of the upper edge of the berets, which should match the details of the top and lining.
The control drawing of the interlining is made in accordance with its design.
4. Methods for finishing the uppers of shoes
P 
In the development of new models of shoes, various types of finishes for the top and bottom of shoes are used to decorate it.
Details of the top of the shoe are finished before the assembly of the workpiece. The main purpose of finishing operations is to improve appearance shoes and their decoration. Finishing the top of the shoe allows you to diversify the range of all its types. The correct selection of the proportions of the main details and finishes allows you to create a composition of shoes of various style solutions. Stylization is the creation of a certain image or the imitation of a form. Especially great is the importance of styling in children's and summer open shoes. For example, home shoes with ears, reminiscent of a bunny; articulation of the tuning beret of the boot, resembling a squirrel; the shape of the cutouts imitating strapped shoes, etc.
The types of finishes used can be divided into three main ones:
Finishing that is part of the structure (Fig. IX.3): a combination of materials in color and texture; biziki, inserts, lapels, stitching, corrugated and leather-covered elastic bands, soft reversible upper edge, ties, rubber back-assembly, tucks, rustic (woven outer) seams, as well as working accessories (blocks, hooks, buckles, loops, etc.
Rice. IX. 3. Shoe models with trim that is part of the design
collars, zippers). Without the specified finish, you cannot use shoes or get a finished sample.
Finishing applied directly to the details of the upper of the shoe: perforations (Fig. IX.4), decorative and openwork lines, cut-offs and figured cutouts, embroidery, embossing, silk-screen printing, toning. Perforation can look like a separate "bush" or stylize the image, or it can complement the decorative stitching.
In the compositional solution of shoes, graphic elements are of great importance: a trademark and marking. Trademarks serve to distinguish the products of different companies. They are applied to the outer or inner parts of the upper, as well as to the insole or sole. There are verbal, pictorial or combined and three-dimensional signs.
O 
removable signs are applied to the soles during their manufacture.
Depending on the purpose, material, type and group of shoes, individual types of finishes or their combination can be used.
Rice. IX. 4. Perforation patterns
5. Modeling shoes on one constructive base
The base is called the main details of the shoe, which remain unchanged when the appearance of the shoe as a whole changes. The base can be the details of the top and bottom of the shoe.
Basic modeling allows you to expand the range of footwear created by a variety of decorative elements and accelerate its introduction into mass production. Thus, a significant economic effect is achieved (costs are reduced for working out models, making templates and cutters, for technical documentation, etc.). When the division of parts is changed, the base of the outer parts of the shoe upper is disturbed, but the base of the lining is preserved, which also gives an economic effect in the production of shoes.
On fig. IX.6 presented four models of sap
Rice. IX. 6. Models of boots on one constructive base A
ozhek on one constructive base A. When creating a diverse assortment of shoes on the same constructive base, shoe finishing in the form of decorative stitching, perforation, accessories, overhead parts, lapels, fur trim, selection of different materials by color or texture, embossing, biziks, silk-screen printing, delay plays an important role.
When using decorative fittings for finishing the top, it is necessary to take into account the clamping device of the sole-attachment equipment and other devices.
6. Designing a moccasin top model
Moccasins - shoes in which the details of the top cover the footprint completely or its front part and pass to the side surface, fastened to the oval insert using hand-woven cord or moccasin seam.
In the first case, the workpiece is completely, and in the second case, it has a three-dimensional shape in the toe-beam part.
F 
the hard shell is removed from the last, on which the intermediate and internal parts of the shoe are fixed. Most often, shoes of the moccasin design are made unlined in the toe-beam part and with top details that cover only the front of the footprint. Therefore, in the heel part, the workpiece is molded with a rigid heel counter and with the main semi-insole, which is designed overlapping with a cutout of the top on the track at the point P"(Fig. IX.7). The hard shell is removed from the side surface of the block and from its track, after which they are glued with perchlorovinyl glue. If the shell is made of fabric, then first they fit the side surface of the block, cut off the excess along the edge of the trace, and then glue the insole.
On the prepared casing (Fig. IX.7, a) the drawing of the model is applied so that the edge of the insert coincides with the edge of the side surface of the toe part of the block. The deepening of the insert is determined in the same way as for the model of shoes without special fastening. To do this, it is enough to connect a point in the middle of the track, transferred to the side surface with a slope on the slope of the ridge and on the resulting line KL" find a point G. The line of the upper edge of the shoes is applied along the line V T G. point V T
determined according to the state standard. Then draw a dividing line of the shell on the outer and inner sides and determine the position of the line about
Rice. IX. 7. Moccasin construction shoe design scheme by hard shell
Tresa of the tibia de. Puncture points are marked on the side surface P in bundles pads. A cutout contour is applied to the trace of the shell oval shape(Fig. IX.7,
b), turning into a puff allowance: 18 ml in the shank, 15 mm in the heel. The depth of the notch should allow for good shaping, but not deeper than the point P " in sec. 0.73 L. To flatten the shell, it is segmented: the excess is cut off, the insert is cut out, the main part of the shell is cut along the line of the middle of the heel rounding, along the edge of the shoe track on both sides until flattening at the points and and along the cutout of the trace; cut the insert (Fig. IX.7, v) along the line Vv to flattening at a point b.
In the heel part of the main part of the shell, two or three incisions are made along the line of the insole rib beyond its edge by 15-20 mm and one incision is made at the point of maximum convexity of the heel H c (Fig. IX.7, G). In the front part of the shell, incisions are made along the normal to the contour of the insole rib, the distance between the incisions is 8-10 mm. Notches in the toe-beam part should not go beyond the edge of the track.
To build an oval insert, the axis of the notched insert template in points v and b(See Figure IX.7, v) combined with axial OH in the drawing and then outline its contour and the overlay of the incised part along AT 6. The overlay is corrected by rotating the insert at the point b so that point V took a place on the axis OH alternately from the outer and inner sides. This reduces the perimeter of the insert G "vG" up to 2%, which is corrected in points G" by restoring the perimeter.
Adjustment of the heel part of the main part is performed according to the accepted method. In the toe part, the tucks are not corrected, therefore, when stitching the vamp with an insert, gathers are formed on the vamp, which creates a three-dimensional shape of the toe part of the shoe. In beams, a line is drawn through a point O(See Figure IX.7, G) in sec.. 0.62 L from which the tucks are summed up to the berets. After adjusting the vamp for the amount of darts? it is necessary to straighten its contour CH along the stitching line with the insert and along the long edge (respectively, add ss" and turn down gg").
Taking into account the deformation of the vamp during molding, its dimensions are reduced by 2%. For this, from the point O conduct rays to the contour of the vamp. The length of each beam is reduced by 2%, and after connecting the points, the detailing of the vamp is performed. In order for the workpiece to be well molded to the block, at the point V T
a notch is made by 5 mm and the berets are reduced by the value ∆ l b for deformation up to 5% along the heel contour.
7. Designing a model for the top of a low shoe with an oval
insert and valve
Having received a conditional scan of the spatial type, as shown in Fig. III.17., The construction of the details of the top is carried out according to the accepted methodology. The oval insert may have different shape at the top of the workpiece. On fig. IX.8. the model of a low shoe with adjustable berets and with an oval insert passing into the valve is presented.
Initially, the upper part of the insert B "g is designed similarly to the tongue of a low shoe with tuning berets. To build the valve, the position of point B" is determined - the height of the insert tongue on the instep of the foot and its width is projected B "g. Then the original contour of the tongue is transferred by turning to the inflection line of the oval inserts in position B "g".
Rice. IX. eight. Design scheme for a low shoe with a valve
Having connected the point d with points C and D with straight lines, the contour of the upper part of the tibia is copied onto the tracing paper and transferred down relative to the line r, which is the fold line of the upper part of the deployed valve. The width of the tongue B "g should ensure the fit of the finished shoe. It can be calculated similarly to the side gum. Moreover, the distance Bg should be equal to two distances between the rays of the angle a drawn through point B.
In the coordinate axes, such a sweep can be inscribed on the outside. After designing the outer parts, a similar construction is performed on the inner side. Allowances for seams and tightening are determined according to the accepted methodology.
8. Designing the model of the top of pumps on a rigid shell
Shoes "boats" belong to the flat type of blanks. However, the requirements for the position of the edge on the block, and the possibility of using overhead tongues, cross-lifting belts, make it possible to apply a conditional scan, flattened by the type of a semi-flat workpiece (Fig. III. 15). At the same time, for shoes "boats" the angles a are much smaller than the angles for a flat workpiece (Section III, Ch.2, §3). When flattening the shell with small angles a, the designed model has a better fit along the edge of the berets and the vamp cutout, and vice versa.
In order to improve the fit of the edge of the tibia on the inside, when modeling on a rigid shell, it is not necessary to turn the rear - it is necessary to choose the right angles a. Based on the analysis of existing models over a number of years, it has been established that the angle a on the inside for shoes "boats" is 2 degrees less than on the outside. This difference can be set for any pad used. To do this, after notching, the rigid shell is aligned with the OS axis without preliminary application of corners. The wings of the shell are laid arbitrarily until they are flattened, the He points with the H point on the OS axis are marked, and the obtained angles are measured. To obtain a conditional sweep, flattening is performed with angles a smaller than those obtained during verification, in accordance with Section III. ch.2. §3. In this case, the angle for the outside is taken as the basis, and for the inside, it is reduced by the difference obtained during the check.
The heel contour of the shell is reduced to identical.
Drawing the pattern of the "boat" model is carried out similarly to the accepted method in section III. ch.2. §3 and in section V. ch.11. §2. When constructing a drawing of parts, the necessary adjustment of their dimensions is performed according to the specified method.
Chapter 5
Model Lab
1. Model laboratory equipment
During the preparation of the model for implementation, it becomes necessary to manufacture special templates: for cutting, for a hail machine, for cutters. Templates for manual cutting are made from cardboard. The edges of the templates are reinforced with varnish, if no more than six pairs of shoe uppers are cut, or with a special edging wire. Using thick thickened cardboard, you can avoid edging its edges by varnishing them twice. An increase in the level of modeling leads to a reduction in the number of experiments (samples), and the need for a mass experiment is eliminated. However, for mass manual cutting of model shoes produced in small series, cardboard templates are edged. The area of the cardboard templates must be reduced by the thickness of the edging tape. For grading a series of templates, metal templates of the original size are made, duplicated with cardboard. Cardboard templates should not protrude beyond the edges of the metal ones, so their area is reduced by 2 mm around the entire perimeter.
For cutters, a series of metal templates is made, the area of which must correspond to serial originals, as this affects the consumption of material during cutting. Pinned buttons are attached to the cardboard templates used for manual cutting of shoe upper parts. When cutting parts from the material, they leave traces from the tip of the buttons, which serve as a guide when assembling blanks. When cutting yuft, larger buttons are used, and for cutting thin skins with a smooth front surface, smaller ones are used. Holes are cut out in cardboard and metal templates for fastening the former into sets and for fixing the latter with bolts when grading according to metal templates. For the manufacture of the listed templates, templates for the manufacture of matrices and other equipment, special small-sized equipment is used: model scissors, an edging machine, an apparatus for punching holes, an apparatus for inserting pin buttons, and more.
2. Work organization
fashion designer places
The design department includes an assortment room, model and shoe laboratories. Each department of laboratories should be equipped with special cabinets and work tables.
In the assortment room on special stands, samples of manufactured and promising models of shoes should be stored. For meetings of the technical council of the enterprise and the demonstration of developed shoe samples, it is desirable to have a podium with built-in or folding shelves for keeping records. In the shoe laboratory in special cabinets, samples of shoes and heels introduced into production and new styles, templates for their manufacture, shoe samples, sections of various fastening methods, skeleton and plaster casts of feet and special literature should be stored. In the model laboratory, samples, mock-ups, top blanks and individual shoe assemblies should be stored in special cabinets; samples of lasts and heels, a plaster foot skeleton and casts of legs with different elevation of the heel from the supporting surface; samples of fittings and materials, as well as magazines and other specialized literature and documentation. The vacuum apparatus must be equipped in accordance with safety regulations. The fashion designer's desktop should be comfortable both for sitting and for standing, since it is recommended to perform detailing with a knife while standing, if there is no inclination of the cutting board. The design of the table should ensure the rational organization of the work of the fashion designer.
The cutting board must be wooden end. It is advisable to place it in the center of the table. The table should have a slight recess so that the working tool lies on its surface. In addition to shelves for storing tools, lasts, hard shell, envelopes with original parts, each table should have a chute on the left side for storing scraps and cardboard. The table must be equipped with an individual lamp. The tool on the working surface of the table must be placed in a certain order: on the left there must be a ruler and a measuring tape; on the right - a knife, a compass, a measuring tool; in the middle - an awl, a bar, pencils. In small enterprises where there is no division of labor of modellers, a special room should be allocated in the model laboratory for the cooling machine and other equipment necessary for the manufacture of templates.
3. Features of the work of a fashion designer
In solving the tasks set in the field of increasing production efficiency, expanding the range and improving the quality of footwear, a special place belongs to the department of modeling and designing footwear. Its functions include work on the study of demand and fashion forecasting, conducting pre-project studies, designing new and improving manufactured shoe designs, testing and introducing newly developed products into production. The development of a new range and its introduction into production is carried out by different departments. In addition, a number of shoe enterprises have created promising groups artists-designers who develop new types and designs of shoes.
Fashion designers working on the creation of a new range of footwear are given a task that contains all the initial data for the development of a specific range of footwear models. Fashion designers working on the introduction of models into production, check the manufacturability of the manufacture of new models and designs of shoes, their technical and economic indicators and prepare documentation for implementation. This division of labor allows more attention to be paid to the development of a new range and improving its quality. Significant assistance to fashion designers is provided by technologists who develop the optimal technological process for the manufacture of each shoe model. Both creative and design work of fashion designers requires constant training, development of taste, knowledge of production and economics. At least once a month fashion designers have creative days to collect information. The profitability of shoes produced, the rhythm of the enterprise, its further improvement and development largely depend on the rational organization of work of shoe modeling departments.
4. Design features of top models
shoes from artificial materials
Artificial and synthetic materials for shoe uppers have been widely used in the shoe industry to create shoes of all kinds, seasons of wear and gender and age groups, except for shoes for children (0-3 groups). In our country, artificial materials are used to make: shoe uppers - 15%, lining - 30%, toe caps - 90% of the total shoe output, and many details of the bottom. Every year, the range of artificial and synthetic leathers and the scope of their application are expanding.
The uniform properties and shape of the artificial roll materials being cut make it possible to use a computer to calculate the optimal options for cutting. Synthetic and artificial leather differ from natural in terms of physical and mechanical properties and hygienic properties. Mechanical replacement of one material with another is unacceptable, as it may adversely affect the consumer properties of the product. This determines the features of design, modeling, manufacturing technology and operation of footwear. The elastic-plastic properties of artificial and synthetic materials differ significantly from natural leather. Large stretching during tightening and tightening operations not only causes large elastic deformations (relaxation), but also leads to violation of the front cover and rupture of the material. After molding the uppers from artificial materials, the parts tend to restore their original dimensions, especially in the forefoot. Therefore, for molding the top of blanks from artificial and synthetic leathers, lasts with a more filled shape of the toe part and with an increase in volume in bundles should be designed, manufactured and used. According to accepted industry standards, pads are used with an increase in volumetric dimensions by one fullness, for the manufacture of insulated and non-insulated shoes with uppers made of artificial materials.
From artificial materials, models should be developed with cut-off parts fastened with weaving or tuning seams in order to give a semi-flat workpiece a spatial shape. In order to minimize the amount of relaxation in the finished shoe, it is recommended to increase the tightening allowance by 3 mm during design. This is due to the need to weaken the springs of the tong mechanisms to reduce the stretching of the material during molding. To reduce the ductility, the outer parts of the top are glued with an interlining. An interlining is also glued to the lining made of knitted fabric dubbed with foam rubber to protect the lining from tearing during molding. The interlining is designed only for parts adjacent to the last during molding. The visible edges of the outer parts of the top made of artificial and synthetic leathers must be processed into a fold or edging, except for synthetic leathers on a fibrous and combined basis, which are allowed by GOST to be processed into color. In strap-type shoes, it is allowed to carry out a widened butt bending of the straps without the use of a lining.
Synthetic leathers should be used on the top of insulated shoes lined with faux fur, woolen and half-woolen baize and fabrics such as technical cloth. For the lining of non-insulated boots and boots, velveton-type fabrics should be used, and for low shoes - natural lining leather. V summer shoes with a top made of artificial materials, as well as in the heel part of unlined sandals made of natural leather, it is allowed to use a lining made of artificial and synthetic leather according to samples agreed with the consumer. To reduce folds along the trail of tight shoes on the long edge of the outer and inner parts of the top, notches and corrugations 6-8 mm deep should be designed. Artificial leather can be used to make shoe uppers by simultaneous welding and punching of parts from several layers of thermoplastic materials in the high-frequency field. Thus, it is possible to produce whole blanks of the shoe upper: for example, a strap type, with a large die-cut, and individual parts: bows, buckles. You can emboss and perforate parts at the same time.
5. Consumer properties of shoes
Any product has many properties. Properties are called objective features that can manifest themselves at any stage of the product life cycle: design, manufacture, distribution and consumption (operation). Consumer properties are called the objective features of the product (shoes), which are manifested in the process of consumption and ensure the satisfaction of specific human needs. The nomenclature of consumer properties depends on the functional purpose of the product. Shoes serve to protect the foot (or foot and lower leg) of a person from the effects of the external environment. In the process of operation (consumption), footwear can have a positive or negative effect on a person. So, the heat-shielding properties of winter shoes can be attributed to the positive qualities, and heaviness to the negative ones. By their nature, properties are divided into physical, chemical, physico-chemical and biological. TO physical properties relate:
mechanical (strength, deformation, hardness, fatigue, etc.);
thermal (heat capacity, thermal conductivity, etc.);
optical (color, gloss, etc.);
general physical (mass, density, porosity).
functional;
ergonomic;
aesthetic properties of the product, as well as its reliability and safety. Consumer properties can be divided into simple and complex. Simple ones are not subdivided into smaller ones, but they themselves can be constituent parts more complex properties. Complex, or complex, they have several components. For example, a simple property of footwear is its mass, and a complex property is wear resistance, which includes resistance to repeated bending, compression, stretching, moisture, sweat, and abrasion resistance of the sole.
What is the difference between designer and factory shoes?
Many people believe that good shoes do not have to be designer shoes and that mass production is practically no different if it is well established and quality is controlled in the manufacture of each pair.
If we talk about serious companies, and we will only talk about them, then high-quality, branded and designer shoes- what people who appreciate comfort, convenience, fashion and beauty need. However, there are quite significant differences that you need to know and consider when choosing your ideal pair. And you need to start with production.
Designer shoes from A to Z
The main and most important thing in production is labor intensity, involvement of several specialists, long production time, exclusive materials and design. In a little more detail, each model goes through several stages: a sketch (artists-designers), coordination of appearance (designer and shoemaker), selection of material (shoemaker), selection and manufacture of a unique last (master specialist), cutting and assembly (narrow specialists ). It should be noted that there is no automation here at all, and all stages are carried out in "manual mode".
Each of these stages is quite costly in terms of time and effort. For example, in order for the leather to be as soft as possible, easily stretched and have increased wear resistance, it is kept on the block for up to 4 weeks! Then the fixing of the sole, which is carried out only by specialists of the highest level, because. in case of any failure, it will not be possible to save the couple. Finishing (gluing, stitching), logos, special impregnation…
Again, if there are special wishes or design requirements (hand embroidery, “aging”, carving, degradation, etc.), then the period can stretch for a very long time.
Designer shoes go through all the stages every time, including the indefatigable imagination of the fashion designer and the professional hands of high-class craftsmen.
Mass production
There are several manufacturing options here and, of course, each of them affects not only the individuality of the models, but also the quality, volume and methods of sales.
Factory in large volumes
At plants and factories, a design is developed, a regular block and material are selected, automation is being adjusted and each model is manufactured up to 10,000 pairs. It is sold in bulk to warehouses, shops, shoe chains.
Factory in medium volumes
It can be manufactured in the same or smaller workshops, in private firms. Often the same materials and pads are used, but the volume is much smaller. Sales are carried out in their own stores.
Designer
First, only one model is made and submitted to the customer for approval. After approval, exactly the number of pairs and with the dimensions that he needs are performed.
Custom made designer shoes
Production takes place in a single copy, taking into account all the specified parameters (non-standard foot, concert costume, special requirements, etc.)
And finally. Due to the huge competition and the complexity of marketing, most shoe manufacturers carefully monitor the quality and mood of fashion, and therefore only one thing can be said: love yourself and your legs, and choose only those models that make your walk flying and your mood great. And designer shoes or not - it's not so important ...
An entrepreneur considering the production of shoes as a business idea must be prepared for serious investments and the need to carefully study all the nuances of the industry. In addition, the segment is highly competitive. And if it is quite easy to compete with domestic factories, then to ensure the same high quality as that of European manufacturers, you will have to try. On the other hand, Chinese suppliers, who are not really striving for high performance characteristics of goods, offer the lowest possible prices, can become a serious problem.
Features of this business
Footwear production is a costly and complex type of business in terms of organization. In addition, the entrepreneur must understand the technologies and types of products. Otherwise, it is impossible to create a product that can compete with a huge number of domestic and foreign brands. However, new manufacturers are constantly entering the market. This means that if there is original ideas and a carefully thought-out strategy has every chance of success.
To do this, you need to decide what kind of shoes to produce. Traditionally, it is divided into women's, men's and children's for everyday wear. Here the competition is the highest, and the leading positions are occupied by Chinese suppliers of inexpensive goods. That is why many novice shoe manufacturers from Russia immediately go into narrower segments - the manufacture of shoes for the military, athletes, dancers, representatives of various professions, orthopedic, etc.
There are a number of factors to consider when choosing a niche. For example, women's fashion and sports shoes have a high cost, and also require the organization of high-tech and expensive production. In the case of manufacturing rubber boots and beach flip-flops, the starting costs will be much lower. On the other hand, any investment can be justified if the target audience is correctly defined, the design is developed and brand promotion activities are competently carried out. By the way, entrepreneurs who managed to create an original solution and promote it on the principle of viral content often turn out to be the most successful.
Another component of success is the ability to follow fashion trends. Even excellent quality shoes will not be sold in volumes that a new product from a well-known brand can claim. At the same time, do not forget about branding - products should be easily recognizable among the "neighbors" on the shelves.
Raw material
Quality shoes can only be obtained from quality raw materials. Accordingly, you will need to find bona fide suppliers and sign a cooperation agreement. What raw materials are required depends on the type of footwear produced. For leather models you need good skin. Manufacturers of this material can be searched both in Russia and abroad. The choice is largely determined by the planned production volumes. The minimum order from large suppliers, as a rule, is at least one ton of leather. But you can establish contacts with small factories and buy 300-500 kg. You can familiarize yourself with the list of leather industries in the Russian Federation, their prices and specifics.
You will also need accessories, dyes, liquid polyurethanes, reagents, creams, oils and other consumables.
Don't forget about packaging. Shoes are sold in boxes wrapped in paper. You can order such containers at the nearest factory of the corresponding specialization. At the same time, the main thing is to think over the design of the boxes - different for different models.
Manufacture of leather shoes
Equipment for the production of
Today, in the profile market, there are many manufacturers of the most diverse shoe of all varieties, and its list is quite impressive. In addition to the industrial conveyor, mechanisms and devices are used that perform certain operations.
For cutting, special machines are used. Hydraulic cutting presses are used, as well as automatic cutting systems. These machines need special cutters (stamps), the manufacture of which is individually for a specific shoe model. But this is justified only for industries with a large turnover. For small batches, it is more expedient to use manual legs complete with tables, cutting plates, punches, etc.
The main cutting equipment includes:
- splitting machines and machines;
- punching press;
- machines for turning leather, lowering edges and rolling backs;
- embossing press;
- guillotine for small parts of the skin.
The subsequent stages of production will require equipment of various functional purposes. These are machines for the formation of various components of finished shoes - soles, insoles, heels. Apply:
- skin peeling machines;
- machines that produce the edges of the skin;
- presses duplicating additional lining material to increase wear time and improve the quality of shoes;
- gluing machines facilitate the work of gluing ribbons and soles;
- a machine that bends the edges of the material and cuts off the excess;
- equipment for working with different types of braid;
- equipment for the volumetric formation of a stripe on the toe (socks);
- presses that produce embossing and die-cutting of the upper layer of material for making decorative elements, drawings, ornaments;
- machines for fastening shoe accessories.
The sewing process takes place using industrial shoe sewing machines, which must perform various functions. A full work cycle will require five sewing machines:
- Flat - for the assembly of non-voluminous blanks;
- Core - for the assembly of bulk workpieces;
- For flashing the lining - a zigzag machine;
- Heavy machine class - for firmware decorative seams, edging;
- Repair.
Shoe equipment is divided according to its main purpose:
- moisturizing the heel to give it the necessary elasticity;
- pasting the back into the workpiece and tightening - the formation of the entire heel part;
- tightening the sock on the block;
- lining processing;
- leg tightening;
- steam finishing and firing of threads with a hairdryer;
- sock moisturizing;
- smoothing defects with steam;
- cooling with a refrigerator;
- spraying glue;
- gluing the back seam;
- near the top layer of material;
- fixing the insole to the block;
- sole pressing;
- heel attachment.
The following equipment is required for the final production processes:
- Polishing machine with a rotating shaft and brushes (finisher);
- Device for the formation of the shaft;
- Chamber for painting and applying waterproof components;
- Sole gluing equipment.
Production technology
The process of making shoes from leather, suede and their substitutes is quite complicated. It includes a number of operations:
- Cutting. At this stage, details are cut out of the material. It may take about 30 or more pieces to make one shoe or boot.
- Insole manufacturing. In some cases, it is more profitable to work with ready-made insoles from a third-party manufacturer. If you decide to establish your own production, you will need to buy a number of units.
- Marking blanks. Marks are applied to the cut parts, along which seams will be made at the next stage. Next, the edges are fired, painted and polished.
- Sewing. The parts are sewn in a certain sequence, then thermoplastic inserts are placed in the blanks, for which the pairs are laced up and placed on a metal foot heated to 150 ° C, which is then quickly cooled to -20 ° C.
- Product assembly. The blanks are placed on a ruffler, where they are straightened and cleaned of possible contaminants. Semi-finished products are sent to a special oven with a temperature of 60 ° C, and then the excess is cut off at the edges. After the sole is glued or sewn to the top of the product.
- Polishing and lacing. At the final stage, the shoes are polished sheep wool waxed and laced by hand.
The footwear production technology is quite complex and requires an extensive fleet of equipment. In general, it is not possible to determine its cost and composition, since everything depends on the type and volume of manufactured products. You can get a general idea of \u200b\u200bprices and assortment on thematic sites, for example, on Tiu.ru. The lines of European manufacturers such as Durkopp Adler, FAV, Gilardi, Camoga enjoy a good reputation.
How handmade shoes are made by masters of their craft:
Production of felt shoes
On an industrial scale, felt boots and other felt products are made from semi-coarse sheep wool, which is purchased from sheep farms. On the territory of the Russian Federation, most of them are concentrated in the Volgograd region. You can also buy wool in Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, etc.
After delivery to production, raw materials are checked for quality, sorted and placed in trunks. At the first stage, the wool undergoes a special treatment, after which it is aged for 24 hours and transferred to long-needle carding machines. The resulting fibers are loosened on scutching and carding machines. Next, the semi-finished product undergoes chemical treatment and is sent for compaction, as a result of which a thick and soft fabric is obtained, from which various felt products are subsequently obtained.
Felt boots themselves can be made both manually and industrially. The canvas is once again tested for quality and placed in a sculpting machine, where, under the influence of heated water and mechanical factors, the final rolling is performed. Sulfuric acid can be used to shorten the cycle time, but due to its danger to the health of personnel, this method is rarely used.
After the felt boots are rolled again, doused with steam and dried at a temperature of about 100 ° C, cut off and fed for cleaning. Ready felt shoes are put into pairs, insoles are put in, packed and sent to the warehouse. If necessary, at the same stage, the products are decorated with embroidery, appliqués or in another way. There are also models with a rubberized sole, which is “applied” by the vulcanization method.
To open a small workshop for making felt boots, you will need to buy a carding machine (about 150 thousand rubles), a steam press (about 30 thousand rubles), washing machine(90-100 thousand rubles), weighing equipment (10-12 thousand rubles). 2-3 people are enough to service the workshop.
Large-scale production will require more substantial investments. A set of equipment with a capacity of 50-70 pairs of felt boots per shift will cost 800 thousand - 1 million rubles. An embroidery machine and a sole vulcanizer may also be required.
The above equipment makes it possible to produce felt boots of different colors and models. Additional income can be obtained by producing decorative items made of felt, shoes for fishing, tourism, boots with soles and other goods. For example, it can be car or door mats, slippers, bags, insoles, vests, treatment belts.
Production of rubber shoes
This industry has prospects in the Russian Federation, since many regions are characterized by heavy rains. Also, such products are an integral part of the uniform of representatives of many professions. As an example of a successful business, one can cite such domestic manufacturers as Pskov-Polymer, PK KhimProm, Dailos LLC, Tomsk Plant LLC rubber shoes”, LLC PKF “Dune-Ast” and LLC “Sardoniks”.
Work on the creation of rubber boots begins with the development of models, which will require the involvement of a technologist and a designer. Modern shoes should be durable, comfortable and beautiful. There are three ways to make rubber shoes - assembly (by gluing), stamping and molding. They differ in the number of parts and how they are connected. Glued shoes like galoshes contain the largest number of elements (13-21 parts). Two other methods make it possible to reduce the number of elements by 3-4 times.
The process begins with the receipt of sheet rubber. To do this, a mixture of rubber, filler, vulcanizing agents, reaction catalyst, pigments and regenerate is placed on calenders, where sheet rubber is formed for the manufacture of shoe upper parts. The sole is cut out of a special profiled rubber sheet. Also on the calenders, textile materials are smeared and covered with a rubber mixture. However, to increase the profitability of production, it makes sense to use PVC instead of rubber. This material is 25-30% cheaper than a rubber base, and in terms of consumer properties it is in no way inferior to it.
The materials used for the manufacture of internal and intermediate parts are rag mixtures with the addition of unvulcanized scraps of rubberized textiles. For the manufacture of lining, backs, insoles, socks, decor, various cotton fabrics are used.
With regard to the production of rubber boots, boots and shoes, the most common method is the molding method, when the creation of the carcass and the vulcanization of the products are carried out at the same time. At the first stage, the details are cut out. Then a kind of “stocking” is created from textiles, which is put on a metal block and “wrapped” with rubber elements. The blank is placed in the mold of the vulcanizing press, where the rubber is converted into rubber. Then the shoes are sent for trimming and pressing out, undergo quality control, are packed and sent to the warehouse.
Forming method:
The average cost of a production line is about 2.5 million rubles. It is not worth saving, because the characteristics of the equipment determine the quality of the final product.
Manufacture of sports and special footwear
Production sports shoes significantly differs from the manufacture of its other types, primarily by the use of complex modern technologies, the high cost of equipment, raw materials and accessories.
It uses technologies designed to make shoes as comfortable, lightweight and stylish as possible, as well as to provide them with accessibility. The main difficulty is that existing manufacturers are in no hurry to disclose information about their own developments, so a new market player will have to invest a significant part of the funds in finding their own solutions. And it's expensive.
An example is the recent 3-D printing technology, which creates sneakers that perfectly follow the line of the foot. To date, the mass production of "printed" sneakers is only being introduced by Adidas, but there are prerequisites for the fact that in a few years the solution will be released to the masses.
Another example of innovative implementations is Nike's Flyknit technology. Shoes are made by continuous weaving, without lining and textile inlays. This allows you to minimize the number of seams that can cause discomfort during intense sports.
Significant financial resources are required to create the solutions mentioned above. At the initial stage of activity, it makes sense for a sneaker manufacturer to work with traditional materials, as well as to select several patterns that meet the needs of the selected target audience.
Classic sneakers contain three structural elements - the upper, the midsole and the main sole.
For sewing the top, natural and eco-leather can be used, as well as mesh materials made of nylon and polyester threads, a characteristic feature of which is light weight and excellent breathability. The difference between leather sneakers made of natural and synthetic materials is the ability of the first to deform during operation. The latter are more durable and hold their shape better, but have a lower air permeability. There are also a number of special fabrics for the uppers of the sneakers, designed for specific needs.
The midsole is necessary to provide comfort during active loads, cushioning and support of the foot. That is why it depends on the characteristics of this element how much this or that model of sports shoes will be in demand. The most commonly used midsole material is the following materials:
- Philo. This is a lightweight foam compound made from EVA granules with excellent cushioning properties and the ability to take any shape.
- Polyurethane. Some time ago, due to its strength and hardness, the material was in demand in the production of sneakers. However, now, with the advent of new solutions, it is used less and less - primarily because of the large weight.
- Philite. The composition is obtained by adding rubber to phylon. This makes the shoes somewhat heavier, but in return increases its elasticity.
- EVA. Lightweight, flexible and inexpensive material that is often used for budget running shoes. Over time, under the wearer's weight, air is forced out of the foam, and the sole ceases to perform its functions.
In professional models of sneakers, more complex materials are used, such as Lumarlon, Nike Epic React and others.
For the manufacture of the main sole, the main function of which is to provide high-quality grip on the surface, there are also many options. The most budgetary of them is Duralon. It is made from blow molded synthetic rubber. Products cannot boast of durability, but they have excellent shock-absorbing ability.
Another rubber compound is BRS 1000. For its manufacture, carbon is introduced into synthetic rubber. The result is a durable material ideal for running shoe bases. The DRC rubber compound soles offer superior durability and excellent performance in almost any kind of activity required in sports such as tennis and track and field.
When it is not possible to experiment with various materials within the range, you can use a universal material - pure rubber. It is obtained by mixing several types of rubbers of artificial and natural origin. Due to its reliability and good grip with the surface and low cost, this solution can be used in almost any type of sneaker.
As you can see, the manufacture of special footwear is one of the most complex and costly segments of the industry. However, this is where you can count on the maximum profit.
Company registration
The scale of footwear production depends on the desire and capabilities of the entrepreneur. It can be a small atelier, a medium-sized enterprise or a large factory with an assortment of several hundred items. Accordingly, different documents will be required. For an atelier, status is sufficient, in other cases it is necessary. This will allow you to work with large batches of products. A lawyer will help you decide on the choice of taxation system.
When registering, you will need to indicate the OKVED-2 code 15.20 "Shoe production". This will make it possible to produce all types of shoes and parts for them, except for orthopedic, asbestos, rollers and skates for figure skating.
Close attention must be paid to the registration of the company name and logo. The name should be easy to remember and preferably not too long. When choosing a name, you need to take into account the presence of restrictions. First, you need to make sure that another entrepreneur has not already registered a similar name. Secondly, when using the names of cities, countries and some other subjects of the Russian Federation, the law prescribes obtaining permits, which will entail costs. The name must be registered in Russian, and if desired, in English and other languages. If the entrepreneur does not have experience in preparing such documents, it is advisable to contact a specialized company.
All types of footwear are subject to sanitary and epidemiological control. A manufacturer of children's shoes will have to obtain a mandatory quality certificate. In the case of products for adults, certification is voluntary, but it is still necessary to issue a declaration. In addition, products must comply with state standards.
Product certification
The certification procedure for footwear in the countries of the Customs Union (CU) is required not only in production, but also in trade. For adult male and women's shoes certification is optional. Obtaining documents of conformity is mandatory only for children. Be sure to have the necessary documents certifying that the product of production or sale is of impeccable quality.
For an adult, this can be GOST or technical specifications (TU). Today GOST 26167-2005 is in force, for children - GOST 26165-2003.
Certification involves checking shoes for quality, product characteristics by name, gender and age, types, materials used, raw materials and components for the bottom and top of shoes, seasonality, methods of attaching parts, finishing. It also includes a characteristic and the presence of an insulating lining.
People have been thinking about protecting their feet from cold and damage for a very long time. Today's shoes, already familiar to us, have gone through several thousand years from the simplest, sewn pieces of leather, woven sandals and carved wooden shoes to products consisting of many parts and requiring entire factories to manufacture.
In some ways, modern shoes and their distant ancestors have much in common, only today there are increased requirements for today's specimens: any buyer wants shoes not only to protect the feet from damage and be comfortable, but also meet the latest fashion trends and please the eye.
Market
To date, experts note the high dependence of the Russian market on foreign manufacturers and imports. At the same time, the constant increase in prices for shoes from abroad attracts the attention of the consumer to the domestic manufacturer. For an entrepreneur planning to open his own shoe factory, this is obviously a big plus. Along with these processes, marketers see the growth of the market and promise to reach the pre-crisis level of 2008 by 2013.
Technological process
Like every shoe that comes off the assembly line, the manufacturing process has many parts. At the first stage, in the cutting shop, the components of the future boot are made from the obtained, already dressed leather. Usually, the number of such parts is about 30 pieces for one product. They are cut out using stencils (or cutters) and a special punching press installed in the workshop. This machine operates in several modes set by the operator. The setting of the mode depends on the thickness of the material and the height of the cutter, depending on the mode, the height from which the press is lowered changes.
In the same workshop, insoles for future boots are also cut out, but with the help of another press specially designed for such work. First, a special fabric is pressed on both sides, forming an insole, then the edges are sanded. Then, the blanks are glued with rubber glue. Future warm insoles pass through another special press.
The next workshop is filled with markers who draw lines for future seams with a pencil. After marking, the workpieces are sent to firing, where the edges of the parts are heat treated, painted, and then polished using a special machine for lowering the edges, as a result of which the edges become thin and suitable for stitching.
The next workshop is a sewing workshop. Here, with the help of special machines, seamstresses sew leather parts to obtain blanks. After connecting the parts, thermoplastic inserts are glued into the blanks, thanks to which the shape of the boot remains in its original form for a longer time. These inserts are put on a metal foot heated to 150 degrees Celsius, after which the workpiece is immediately cooled at a temperature of -20 degrees. Deformation of the workpiece at this stage is also prevented by temporary laces threaded into the workpiece.
After all the main operations for stitching the workpiece, the resulting semi-finished product is sent for processing to the so-called "ruffle robot". This machine prepares the temporary sole for gluing a real rubber sole by leveling and removing dust from the surface.
At the next stage, the sole is glued to the workpiece, previously “baked” in a special oven at a temperature of 60 degrees. After that, unnecessary rubber residues are cut off from the sole. After that, the boot can be considered ready. It is polished with sheep's wool smeared with wax.
The final step in creating a boot is threading the laces. This process is done manually.
Equipment
The complexity of the technological process of sewing shoes necessitates a large number specialized technology.
Today, there are a sufficient number of different manufacturers of equipment for the production of shoes on the market. various kinds. We will not focus on manufacturers, paying attention to the role of each machine in production.
cutting shop
In the cutting shop, two punching presses are necessary to obtain the necessary parts for the future boot. One of them does the work related to the details for the upper part of the shoe, the other for the bottom and multi-layer flooring.
Insole production
Shoe insoles are produced either in a separate workshop, or, quite often, they are generally purchased separately. If you plan to make insoles yourself in your production, you will need the following equipment:
- Insole press
- Chamfering Machine: This machine sands the edges of the insoles
- Half insole glue machine
- Hydraulic press to form a warm insole (optional)
- Shoe hemming machine
harvesting area
There are four vehicles in this area:
- Twinning and tape machine: this machine aligns the details of the upper, making the thickness of the upper uniform.
- Props branding machine: with it, each pair of shoes receives its own identification number.
- The hemming machine makes the upper part of the shoe easier to sew by thinning the edges of the parts.
- Machine for duplicating uppers, linings and hot-melt materials.
sewing area
As the name implies, in this section, the prepared parts are connected into a workpiece. For this process you need:
- sewing conveyor
- Special sewing machines
- Installation for spreading glue (in case some parts will stick together)
- Subsock Inserting Machine
- Edge bending machine
- Back Seam Smoothing Machine
- vamp molding machine
assembly area
Assembly line
- Insole nailing machine
- Vamp shaping and shaping machine
- Back shaping machine
- Tightening machine
- Humidification Machine
- Pass dryer
- Cooling tunnel
- blowing machine
- Ruffle machine
- Marking machine
- Thermal activator for adhesive films
- Seam press
- shoe removal machine
- Shaft smoothing machine
- Polishing and cleaning machine
Various machines and machine models are available from manufacturers: Atom, Banf, Camoga, Cerim, Comelz, Durcopp Adler, Ecom, Elettrotecnica, Iron Fox, Knaoz, Matic ? Verdi, Mav, Mec-Val, Neve, Obe, Officina Meccanica, Pfaff, Rachioni, Selmac, Sicomec, Silpar, Volonte and others. All of them have representative offices in Russia.
However, delivery of the equipment, as a rule, is made strictly under the order. Related to this is the unavailability of the pricing policy of equipment manufacturers in wide sources of information. Therefore, the price of a particular machine will have to be found out from suppliers during the order or as a consultation.
Raw material
The main material for the manufacture of high-quality shoes is leather. natural leather for shoe production offers the Moscow factory "Ronnon". In addition, there are many leather industries throughout the country. Among them: the Ostashkovsky tannery (Tver region), the Russian Leather factory (Ryazan), the Smilovichi tannery and others. As a rule, purchases are calculated in tons. At the same time, the most common minimum order is 1 ton, but there are factories ready for minimum orders from 300 kilograms. Depending on the type, the cost of leather varies:
- from 100-180 rubles per square meter (bovine skin)
- from 50 - 150 rubles per square meter (suede)
- from 100 rubles per square meter (perforated leather)
Chemical materials for the production of shoes are provided by the company Titrus. Chemical materials include: finishing materials: finishes, liquids, creams, oils, edge and seam treatments, adhesives, surface preparation agents for bonding, liquid polyurethanes for soles, paints. Prices must be checked with suppliers.
Package
Shoe boxes are produced in special factories dealing with various packaging, ready to make packaging especially for you with brand or factory name. Among such manufacturers in our country are Planet Upakovka, Antek, Iris Pack and others.
Organization of production
The factory must have sufficient space for the installation of equipment and convenient work for operators. The required area of the factory, taking into account workshops, warehouses and office departments, can be up to 7 thousand square meters. As for operators, not all machines have automatic mode, therefore, machine workers will be required for almost every machine. For constant, uninterrupted production, you will need as many operators as will be enough to operate production in two shifts. On average, about 250 people will be required to work in production.
All necessary communications must be connected to the factory: electricity, gas and water supply, telephone installation. It is necessary to take into account the loads, in particular the electrical load, which, due to the operation of the machines, can be up to 50 kW.
Certification
Certification of footwear for adults is a voluntary process, for children it is mandatory. Manufactured shoes for adults are subject to mandatory declaration. Shoes intended for wearing, except for sports, national and orthopedic, must comply with a number of GOSTs. Only shoes without manufacturing damage, the same size in pairs, with correctly connected parts, etc., can receive a certificate of conformity and a declaration. All shoes in Russian Federation subject to sanitary and epidemiological control.
Sales
As in many other cases of consumer goods production, the best option for the sale of shoes will be the conclusion of contracts with large Russian networks such as Ecolas, Tervolin, Aty-baty and others. There are a lot of such networks now, the main thing is that you have a product worthy of the consumer's attention.
Investments
According to experts' calculations, the investments required to create a shoe factory from scratch are about 180 million rubles. At the same time, taking into account the internal rate of return of 48%, the payback period will be up to 4 years.
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